Azzurri
Member
http://www.engadget.com/2013/09/06/samsungs-4k-31-5-inch-monitor-eyes-on/
Samsung 31.5" 4k Monitor.
No date or price.
Samsung 31.5" 4k Monitor.
No date or price.
-
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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polyh3dron
Banned
Yeah this is what I'm trying to find out. Trying to see if microstutter is truly a thing of the past and if so, if the solution they used has any drawbacks to it.
Felix Lighter
Member
I'm glad it worked. That HDMI Audio issue was incredibly annoying for me.
Future PhaZe
Member
so what are the chances that by the end of this console generation that high end pc's will be running games at 4k?
I mean if you compare this gen to last gen, the resolution push from 720 to 1080p wasn't even being discussed until a few years into the generation.
Right off the bat now Sony is already pushing 4k with their most recent set and I think the push towards that will only get bigger as time moves on.
I mean if you compare this gen to last gen, the resolution push from 720 to 1080p wasn't even being discussed until a few years into the generation.
Right off the bat now Sony is already pushing 4k with their most recent set and I think the push towards that will only get bigger as time moves on.
Depends on what you mean. Will high end pcs be running it - sure. Will it be the norm? no way.
Felix Lighter
Member
Sony talked quite a bit about Full HD 1080p at the start of last generation.
So my last two builds I bought a DFI Lanparty motherboard. They were the most rock solid boards I ever bought. Unfortunately they exited the consumer market a couple years back. So who makes the best boards these days? My feeling is it doesn't even matter as much as it used to since basically everything important is on the CPU die these days.
Reliability across pretty much all boards is great these days. Can't really go wrong with an MSI, Asus or Gigabyte. On an OC3D review I was watching the guy mentioned that MSI military class motherboards have the lowest RMA rates I guess that might say something.
It is on a single monitor afaik. Multi monitor isn't
http://techreport.com/review/25167/frame-pacing-driver-aims-to-revive-the-radeon-hd-7990
That'll give you definitive answers.
There's no single best board maker, each series has had some standout stuff. I'd rank it like this.
X58 - EVGA
P55 - ASUS
P67/Z68 - ASUS, everyone else had some weird issues, MSI next best though.
X79 - ASUS>ASRock, IF 3930k/3960X then MSI p'good, but doesn't work with 3820s.
Z77 - Gigabyte>MSI>ASUS>ASRock
Z87 - Gigabyte/MSI>ASUS>ASRock
In terms of specific favorite boards per series, mine would be
X58 - EVGA Classified
P55 - Maximus III
P67/Z68 - Maximus Gene-Z
X79 - Rampage IV Gene, Sabertooth, Rampage IV Extreme
Z77 - Gigabyte Z77X-UP7, MSI MPower
Z87 - MSI GD45 Gaming, Gigabyte Sniper M5.
CrunchyFrog
Member
Update on prospective build:
I'd also like to add that I foresee a consumer version Oculus Rift in my future, so I'd hope that this pc would still be up to snuff in that case (with a reduction in graphical detail, of course)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.98 @ Outlet PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($64.80 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($92.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($265.91 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-N250PCe 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($22.90 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Cooler Master R4-L2R-20AC-GP 69.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($6.98 @ Outlet PC)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Logitech K750 Wireless Slim Keyboard ($44.99 @ NCIX US)
Mouse: Logitech M510 Wireless Laser Mouse ($28.25 @ Amazon)
Total: $1103.73
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-09-06 13:02 EDT-0400)
Mostly followed the excellent Haswell build in the OP, with a few minor tweaks and a few extra $ spent here and there (for smaller CAS and 1866MHz RAM, slightly higher MHz on the GPU) I know the RAM has a heat spreader on it, but is it that big a deal if it isn't low profile? It's the best price I could find on that spec RAM. The keyboard is also a bit of a luxury, I mainly wanted it for the solar/ambient light recharge so I don't have to deal with batteries as much. I know with that HYNIX fire that a few part prices have gone up for about $30 total, but if I'm understanding the situation correctly the damage was not serious and production/prices should return to normal within a month or two. Hoping with BF/Christmas deals that this build gets pretty close to that $1k sweet spot.
Also, while I'm leaning pretty heavily towards Nvidia because I've been on AMD for this laptop and have had a horrid time with driver updates plus I like Nvidia's featureset a bit more (the upcoming Shadowplay expecially), I may also take a second look once the 9000 series comes out.
I'd also like to add that I foresee a consumer version Oculus Rift in my future, so I'd hope that this pc would still be up to snuff in that case (with a reduction in graphical detail, of course)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.98 @ Outlet PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($64.80 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($92.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($265.91 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-N250PCe 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($22.90 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Cooler Master R4-L2R-20AC-GP 69.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($6.98 @ Outlet PC)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Logitech K750 Wireless Slim Keyboard ($44.99 @ NCIX US)
Mouse: Logitech M510 Wireless Laser Mouse ($28.25 @ Amazon)
Total: $1103.73
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-09-06 13:02 EDT-0400)
Mostly followed the excellent Haswell build in the OP, with a few minor tweaks and a few extra $ spent here and there (for smaller CAS and 1866MHz RAM, slightly higher MHz on the GPU) I know the RAM has a heat spreader on it, but is it that big a deal if it isn't low profile? It's the best price I could find on that spec RAM. The keyboard is also a bit of a luxury, I mainly wanted it for the solar/ambient light recharge so I don't have to deal with batteries as much. I know with that HYNIX fire that a few part prices have gone up for about $30 total, but if I'm understanding the situation correctly the damage was not serious and production/prices should return to normal within a month or two. Hoping with BF/Christmas deals that this build gets pretty close to that $1k sweet spot.
Also, while I'm leaning pretty heavily towards Nvidia because I've been on AMD for this laptop and have had a horrid time with driver updates plus I like Nvidia's featureset a bit more (the upcoming Shadowplay expecially), I may also take a second look once the 9000 series comes out.
maneil99
Member
You might have clearance issues with the cooler and ram
CrunchyFrog
Member
Is there any way to figure that out for sure? What if I just soldered the thing off?
That ram is fine. It's only the ones with the huge ridiculous heatsinks that you need to worry about.
The bigger problem is that the colour doesn't match your motherboard.
CrunchyFrog
Member
I think I'll live
The ripjaw do come in red though!
We have no idea what the final specs on the consumer OR might be. The 760 would probably not cut it though.
Do you need a wireless adapter? If not, drop it. If so, look into Powerline if you have decent wiring.
Not a fan of wireless kb/m, but that's probably not an issue if input lag/competitive gaming aren't priorities for you.
CrunchyFrog
Member
Yeah I figured as much. 760 is about as high as I'm willing to go for cost/performance ratio. I'll probably have to crank things down a lot, but I figure most of those running PC's built this year will probably have to do the same, even with some of the higher end cards.
And yeah I'd rather have the wireless card. I know powerline setups have issues with latency when the two sockets aren't the same circuit, and with the router downstairs I can't guarantee that won't be the case.
I've been using a wireless mouse for a while now and really haven't had any issues. Unless it's significantly worse on keyboards for some reason I think I can cope.
In any case, thanks for the help everybody!
Artofwar420
Member
You mean for what purpose? Basically I want to squeeze as much performance from the 560 ti as I can. I have a an E8500 dual core 3.16 GHz CPU and I notice not great performance. Everyone I ask said the CPU is bottlenecking my gfx card, so perhaps a better question is:
What is the most cost efficient CPU to pair with a 560 ti?
What's your budget. You can pair a 560Ti with pretty much any CPU.
I need a headset/mic. Looked into Mod Mic but it's back-ordered and I need kind of want something now.
Any recommendations, especially from those with larger heads would be appreciated! I tend to be sensitive to the clamping force on certain headphones.
edit: re OP, anyone know if the Sennheisers are tight on the head? My hd 280 pro's are.
How is the Razer Kraken? Avoid Razer? Kind of in a hurry, might have to limit myself to a brick and mortar bestbuy nearby.
Any recommendations, especially from those with larger heads would be appreciated! I tend to be sensitive to the clamping force on certain headphones.
edit: re OP, anyone know if the Sennheisers are tight on the head? My hd 280 pro's are.
How is the Razer Kraken? Avoid Razer? Kind of in a hurry, might have to limit myself to a brick and mortar bestbuy nearby.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/catalyst-13.8-frame-pacing-crossfire,3595.html
Seems like it is gone.
Truth be told since multi-gpu setups have been in existence I have seen way more issues with ATI/AMD than with Nvidia. Considering you are married to the company when you buy a video card, this is why I avoid AMD in my builds and builds for clients.
Bottlenecking doesn't work the way you think it does.
Stuff that is cpu dependent will be slowed by a slow cpu
Stuff that is GPU dependent will be slowed by a slow GPU.
You'll still see gains no matter what. You could put a Titan with a Core 2 Duo if you wanted, and still see improvement over other cards.
What are you considering high end pc? Like 1 top shelf gpu?
You can run games at 4k now. It just takes about 2k in video cards.
This.
I recommend the i5 K series to pretty much anyone looking to get stellar performance. If you're not too fussed about that sort of thing, then an i3 would be up your alley.
PC's can already run games at 4K, so I'm not sure what you mean. As in, like a more accepted standard?
Felix Lighter
Member
I know it's impossible to predict the future but with what we know should a i5 3570K last the duration of this upcoming console generation? My buddy is asking questions and I don't want to mislead him about his upgrade future but I would imagine with that CPU with a reasonable overclock, he should be good with just a graphics card upgrade maybe sometime down the road.
In store CPU deals are amazing if you have one near by. Unfortunately for me, the closest one is like 3 hours away.
In store CPU deals are amazing if you have one near by. Unfortunately for me, the closest one is like 3 hours away.
CharpyImpact
Member
The ASUS VG248QE is still the 120hz monitor to get if we are concerned about IQ? Are there newer models I should be considering?
You want a closed loop cooler or a big heat sink?
Mostly a choice of aesthetics and accessibility to your components (less in the way). H60/H100i, or something Noctua.
That's the one. Still waiting for something with a gloss panel. We'll see.
Aesthetics are not the biggest concern since I am planning to get the 350D version without the window. I just want it to be tidy and quiet. Easier to work in is always a plus. Thanks!
Noise will always be dependent upon the fans used.
If you're not trying to OC to insane levels, my personal choice is the H60 with the fan speed set low.
Sectorseven
Member
In my experience a CPU holds out for about 4 years before becoming a concern, assuming you bought it near release.
Upgrading to 4k is going to be a double whammy investment for most people. An expensive new monitor and an expensive graphics card to run games at a respectable framerate. Don't worry about it until his next PC build after this one.
Re the 4K argument. 4K could be a reality if devs gave a shit. Most games look like shit and when you bump up the res it's super demanding. Max Payne 3 is an incredible looking game, just tried it at 3840x2160 with everything at the highest didn't dip below 45. This is on 3570K and GTX770. Which is a decent PC, but not 4K decent you would think. There are games that run well at 4K and are great looking games. Plus they don't require the dual/triple Titans to run. Unless I am crazy and quite possibly talking out of my arse, devs will need to optimise their games better for 4K like Max Payne 3. Possibly talking out of butt though .
.
maneil99
Member
212+ is already as fast as a H60, you'd need a H80 or Noctua to see increase In heat dissipation
You're probably thinking of the older model. It was greatly improved for the 2013 version. The fan they use is also top notch, which is a big part of my recommendation for it.
Case or heatsink/radiator? Price range?
OK PCGaf, you guys have never steered me wrong so far and this is a big one.
So my cousin wanted to join in on the PC fun and as a result bought a PC, it's nothing special but it gets the job done. However, his PC is upstairs and his router is downstairs. So he bought himself the first wireless adapter he found in a supermarket for double the price that you can get online and it's awful. It never works, if it does, it will work for about 30 minutes before his connection grinds to a halt. After looking online I discovered that the little USB adapter overheats and starts to shut down. Meaning it is completely useless for playing games (or doing anything, 2 days ago he told me that AVG had a hard time updating).
Anyway, since it's happened, he barely uses it, meaning there's a £400 machine sat in his room gathering dust that he hates using.
So I need solutions, within some obvious guidelines:
- £400 is a lot for him to throw down, to the point that he doesn't wanna spend much more fixing it (so no suggesting £100 hardware, it's gotta be affordable, £25 is kinda pushing it)
- It's his parents house, they want no wires running through the house. So a really long ethernet cable is out.
- He bought this shitty USB adapter without asking me first, he just grabbed the first thing because he wanted to get online and play games as soon as possible. So please, I want suggestions from people who have actually tried and tested them, not 'this is what I found after googling for 30 seconds...'
- He doesn't mind a wireless solution, providing it works. Preferably something that doesn't decide to shut down because he tried to watch a youtube video at 720p.
Help me, PCGaf, you're my only hope.
So my cousin wanted to join in on the PC fun and as a result bought a PC, it's nothing special but it gets the job done. However, his PC is upstairs and his router is downstairs. So he bought himself the first wireless adapter he found in a supermarket for double the price that you can get online and it's awful. It never works, if it does, it will work for about 30 minutes before his connection grinds to a halt. After looking online I discovered that the little USB adapter overheats and starts to shut down. Meaning it is completely useless for playing games (or doing anything, 2 days ago he told me that AVG had a hard time updating).
Anyway, since it's happened, he barely uses it, meaning there's a £400 machine sat in his room gathering dust that he hates using.
So I need solutions, within some obvious guidelines:
- £400 is a lot for him to throw down, to the point that he doesn't wanna spend much more fixing it (so no suggesting £100 hardware, it's gotta be affordable, £25 is kinda pushing it)
- It's his parents house, they want no wires running through the house. So a really long ethernet cable is out.
- He bought this shitty USB adapter without asking me first, he just grabbed the first thing because he wanted to get online and play games as soon as possible. So please, I want suggestions from people who have actually tried and tested them, not 'this is what I found after googling for 30 seconds...'
- He doesn't mind a wireless solution, providing it works. Preferably something that doesn't decide to shut down because he tried to watch a youtube video at 720p.
Help me, PCGaf, you're my only hope.
There's two case fans and two for my Corsair H80, which I assume I can change.
Price range - I don't really have any idea what they should cost but I'd be hoping to spend less than €50.
I use those (not that exact model, but same thing) and they work just fine. Would recommend.
You can just slow down the H80 fans using controls on your motherboard. They're good enough that they don't really warrant replacing. For case fans, my choices in order of least to most expensive would be Arctic Cooling F12, Cougar Vortex, Corsair AF120, and Noiseblocker eLoops.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004INVKP4/
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004INVKP4/
Cool, thanks. Might get the AF120s.
If you do end up thinking about replacing the H80 fans, keep in mind the AF's don't have very good static pressure (necessary for heatsink/radiator duty).
You try it on multiple PC's?
It's unlikely that they would send it out if it weren't working.
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