Default, 1000mhz. Didn't overclock them. Thanks for the replies. How would a single GTX 780 compare?
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
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Default, 1000mhz. Didn't overclock them. Thanks for the replies. How would a single GTX 780 compare?
A single 7970 OC'd to ~1100-1200MHz isn't really too far off from a 780. I'd suggest waiting for the R9 which will be released either next month or in November.
TomcatTheLion
Member
Is there any particular brand of 780 I should look out for? From what I've seen so far it seems as if the EVGA Superclocked edition is the best one.
The MSI lighting has massive overclocks on it already and could possibly go much higher.
I would pick whatever has best warranty though.
EVGA is my preferred due to the quality of customer service when it is needed.
I think all have 3 year warranties.
What PSU do you have?
Also sometimes it's just something that's gotten a touch loose. Replugging all your cable is something I use when trouble shooting.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
I had a dream my computer got destroyed while being dusted and it was very distressing.
I'll definitely do that tonight. Re-plug and re-seat everything. It's the only part I took from my old machine. Corsair TX650 purchased August 2010. Low to moderate use since that time. The PC was unused for probably a year.
TomcatTheLion
Member
DiabolicalBagel
Member
I think my PSU or motherboard are dying. Seems like power isn't getting to the board for the first 30 or so seconds after flipping the mains and refuses to start up.
There will be an audible click and the LEDs of my peripherals will spring to life signalling that I'm now allowed to use the power button.
Works perfectly fine after that initial period but it is worrying. Anyone else experience this before?
There will be an audible click and the LEDs of my peripherals will spring to life signalling that I'm now allowed to use the power button.
Works perfectly fine after that initial period but it is worrying. Anyone else experience this before?
Carefully examine the capacitors on your motherboard to see if any are bulging. But yeah your diagnosis sounds about right, seems like PSU or mobo problem. How old of a motherbaord/what model?
DiabolicalBagel
Member
Motherbaord is a GA-Z68XP-UD4, about a year old. PSU is a Corsair AX850, about 2-3 years old.
Looked (and sounded) like a cap issue to me but was hoping otherwise. PSU or MoBo, either way my rig is out of commission for a while. =/
Good luck, at least it all should still be under warranty. If you like to live dangerously - I had a motherboard that had a similar issue that continued to work for 2-3 years after it started expressing the problem. I just never turned it off.
DiabolicalBagel
Member
Just turned it off to check (I usually leave mine on most of the time as well) and can confirm its the PSU.
If you like to live dangerously - I had a motherboard that had a similar issue that continued to work for 2-3 years after it started expressing the problem. I just never turned it off.
Checked the MoBo first for faulty caps and when I found none decided to jump the PSU. Confirmed.
Now let's go see if that's in warranty.
Cheers.
With the BF4 RSP, i'm thinking about selling my EVGA GeForce GTX 680 SC Signature 2 and get an EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Superclocked ACX (for the 3GB vRAM).
With the money of the sold GTX 680, I would only have to pay half of the GTX 780 out of my moneybag.
Should I do it? I'm in so much doubt. Buy it or wait till GTX 880.
With the money of the sold GTX 680, I would only have to pay half of the GTX 780 out of my moneybag.
Should I do it? I'm in so much doubt. Buy it or wait till GTX 880.
Considering building myself a new PC. Haven't built for over 5 years so have been doing a bit of research the past week. Looking for something that can play current games and will be able to at least run future releases.
Have come up with the following components:
AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core
Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3 Micro ATX AM3+
PowerColor Radeon HD 7850 2GB
NZXT Vulcan Black MicroATX Mid Tower
Will be bringing over PSU and HDD, will also be looking to pickup a SSD and 2x4GB RAM. I am trying to strike a balance between performance and budget, and would like the option to upgrade in the future if possible.
Just wondering if that setup looks 'good'? Not sure whether to buy now or hold on for sales (presumably there will be some closer to Christmas and in January).
Have come up with the following components:
AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core
Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3 Micro ATX AM3+
PowerColor Radeon HD 7850 2GB
NZXT Vulcan Black MicroATX Mid Tower
Will be bringing over PSU and HDD, will also be looking to pickup a SSD and 2x4GB RAM. I am trying to strike a balance between performance and budget, and would like the option to upgrade in the future if possible.
Just wondering if that setup looks 'good'? Not sure whether to buy now or hold on for sales (presumably there will be some closer to Christmas and in January).
The 680 is leagues ahead of the recommended cards (660/7870). We are guessing it has more to do with Dice being partnered with AMD and them having the affordable 3GB cards..
Please fill out the survey in the OP - or at least let us know your budget so we can come up with a balanced list of components for you.
Apologies. Have read the OP a few times over the last week or so but somehow managed to miss that.
Your Current Specs: e2180 @ 2.1GHz / 3GB DDR2 RAM / Abit (Unsure of model) / Radeon HD3850 / 600w (I think. Unsure of model) / Generic case / 2x1TB 7200 HDD
Budget: £350-400, UK
Main Use: Mainly for general usage, but would also like to play some games at a reasonably high level.
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Current games pref high @ 60fps, future games on lower settings.
Looking to reuse any parts?: 1TB HDD and PSU.
When will you build?: No rush.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe. Who am I kidding, of course.
Thanks. I hope i can run it maxed ^^
What is your PSU exactly? Don't want to re use a junk one.
Presuming it's good there is something like this
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor (£94.79 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-HD3 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£58.62 @ Scan.co.uk)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card (£136.98 @ Amazon UK)
Case: BitFenix Merc Alpha (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (£32.90 @ Amazon UK)
Other: Kingston Technology KHX13C9B1B/4 HyperX Series 4GB 1333MHz DDR3 CL9 DIMM Memory Module - Black (£18.49)
Other: Kingston Technology KHX13C9B1B/4 HyperX Series 4GB 1333MHz DDR3 CL9 DIMM Memory Module - Black (£18.49)
Total: £360.27
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-09-11 01:46 BST+0100)
Thanks!
EDIT: Shit, what did I reply to? Apparently the last post on the first page.
Original derp reply:
------------------------------
All of that and you're not going to even try?
2 changes in your BIOS have a 99% of success:
Turbo ratio to 42
VCore to 1.26V
You may be able to get to 4.5 GHz at 1.20V if you won the lottery, but above is pretty much guaranteed.
Original derp reply:
------------------------------
All of that and you're not going to even try?
2 changes in your BIOS have a 99% of success:
Turbo ratio to 42
VCore to 1.26V
You may be able to get to 4.5 GHz at 1.20V if you won the lottery, but above is pretty much guaranteed.
maneil99
Member
What post are you refering to
Unknown One
Member
What happen if you didn't win the lottery? You just reboot into Bios and change it?
maneil99
Member
Settle with the best OC you can get under 85c prime
Yes. Good motherboards will cycle through a reboot if OC fails and tell you it did and go to BIOS. If the OC fails in Windows you'll bluescreen and you can reboot and enter BIOS. For catastrophic OC failure, you may have to clear CMOS (jumper on motherboard).
Only way you're going to damage something is if you do something dumb like set VCore to 1.4+ V or significantly change other voltages like RAM which ordinarily you should never touch for moderate/casual OCs.
Oh, and this.
I think it's a Gaussian curve, so you could reverse win the lottery and have to use 1.3V to get 4.3 GHz stable.
Was able to reproduce the problem at least once tonight, after making sure everything was seated nicely.
Restarting / Saving and exiting bios caused no video display. (Specifically, I enabled X.M.P. Saved and Restarted)
The system definitely boots to windows, (had speakers plugged in this time!) just without video. Restarting fixes it. Is it a possibly bad Mobo or definitely the GPU?
Restarting / Saving and exiting bios caused no video display. (Specifically, I enabled X.M.P. Saved and Restarted)
The system definitely boots to windows, (had speakers plugged in this time!) just without video. Restarting fixes it. Is it a possibly bad Mobo or definitely the GPU?
Don't enable XMP?
Check that your video out on the mobo is set to PEG (PCI-E Graphics) and not onboard. Disable onboard video if possible.
Don't enable XMP?
Check that your video out on the mobo is set to PEG (PCI-E Graphics) and not onboard. Disable onboard video if possible.
XMP was just the last specific thing I did that caused it. I just restarted, exited the bios without changing anything, and it happened again. Bios was all default settings last night when this same thing was happening.
Onboard video is disabled and PEG is the default video on boot.
Updated to 1.4. Just had it happen again, Entered BIOS, saved exit, didn't touch anything, no video, boots to windows fine.
Bummed :/
Doesn't happen all the time, I guess I'll just wait to see what part fails harder?
Anton668
Member
ya know......
every time I watch one of those delidding viddys...
I think, "Hell, I can do that. Thats hella easy!!!!!"
every viddy is saying how easy it is and how the fears are blown outa proportion.
then I think what if im one of the poor bastards who does fuck up and kills a $250 chip...
every time I watch one of those delidding viddys...
I think, "Hell, I can do that. Thats hella easy!!!!!"
every viddy is saying how easy it is and how the fears are blown outa proportion.
then I think what if im one of the poor bastards who does fuck up and kills a $250 chip...
Unknown One
Member
How do you clear the CMOS? I plan on overclocking next week. This information will be helpful.
Asked this in the Steam thread but I guess it might be better here!
Slightly off-topic (but also slightly on-topic) but I don't really know any good place to ask.
Anyway I have very old router in my house. It works fine but my family is complaining that they want wireless (for their smartphones). I have a very high speed connection:
It should peak at 150mb download and 15 upload I think. But I guess my router is stopping it from getting there. So anyway I wanna get a new one but I remember having a LOT of trouble getting Steam/Games to work on both mine and my sisters computer. If she would play left 4 dead she would always get disconnected and could never play. It took me a week to fix or something so ever since I've been kinda iffy about that stuff but I really need a new one for wireless and getting the max out of the wired connection.
My current setup is my ubee modem from my isp into a switch that is super old. And that one goes to 2 computers. For some reason any other computers/laptops I try to connect on there don't even get internet access at all either.
I was looking at this one: http://www.icidu.com/en/networking/wireless/wireless-gigabit-router-300n.html
So I was wondering if it's any good for me, and will be easy to configure for stuff like the Steam thing. Any advice?
Slightly off-topic (but also slightly on-topic) but I don't really know any good place to ask.
Anyway I have very old router in my house. It works fine but my family is complaining that they want wireless (for their smartphones). I have a very high speed connection:
It should peak at 150mb download and 15 upload I think. But I guess my router is stopping it from getting there. So anyway I wanna get a new one but I remember having a LOT of trouble getting Steam/Games to work on both mine and my sisters computer. If she would play left 4 dead she would always get disconnected and could never play. It took me a week to fix or something so ever since I've been kinda iffy about that stuff but I really need a new one for wireless and getting the max out of the wired connection.
My current setup is my ubee modem from my isp into a switch that is super old. And that one goes to 2 computers. For some reason any other computers/laptops I try to connect on there don't even get internet access at all either.
I was looking at this one: http://www.icidu.com/en/networking/wireless/wireless-gigabit-router-300n.html
So I was wondering if it's any good for me, and will be easy to configure for stuff like the Steam thing. Any advice?
Gonna guess most modern routers won't have a single problem running 2 Steam accounts at the same time. I have a router my ISP gave me and I always have 2 computers running steam, we also play games like L4D2 and Dota 2 together online. Can't comment on that specific one since I don't know much about them.
When you connect directly modem to computer do you get 150mbs? If not then it could just be that you are not getting what you paid for.
When you connect directly modem to computer do you get 150mbs? If not then it could just be that you are not getting what you paid for.
Jibbajabbawockky
Member
So I was thinking of upgrading my CPU and Motherboard from my Phenom II X3 720 to Haswell.
I was thinking of getting the 4770K. The question is what motherboard? I was hoping to carry over my Xonar DG sound card to whatever new motherboard I'd get but looking at some of the Haswell motherboards, it doesn't seem like any of them have regular PCI slots, just PCI-E slots?
Also, if I upgraded my mobo and CPU, would I need a new copy of Windows? Cause doesn't Windows tie itself to the motherboard when its installed?
I was thinking of getting the 4770K. The question is what motherboard? I was hoping to carry over my Xonar DG sound card to whatever new motherboard I'd get but looking at some of the Haswell motherboards, it doesn't seem like any of them have regular PCI slots, just PCI-E slots?
Also, if I upgraded my mobo and CPU, would I need a new copy of Windows? Cause doesn't Windows tie itself to the motherboard when its installed?
What's your budget? Most new motherboard don't have PCI slots and adapters for PCIE x1 to PCI seem quite pricey and may not even be completely compatible with all devices. Pretty much the same price as buying a DGX
You will probably need to reactivate your windows, but that is usually fairly easy if you have the key.
Haven't tried connecting directly to the modem, not like I will get a full 150mbs anywhere online anyway haha. Highest I ever got was around 18, or 21mbs from Steam once.
I'm just double checking before I buy it, but it seems like a decent one. Wireless/wired in one and supports my speeds. I'll look around a bit more to be safe.
This touch keyboard seems like a dream come true for me. Is this pretty much good to go or are there better alternatives?
Jibbajabbawockky
Member
My budget for a new motherboard would be up to around $200, but ideally more around $150 or so. It probably would just be easier to get the DGX, since its not that pricey.
I have an Asus motherboard now for my Phenom II, but are the MSI or Gigabyte ones decent too? I don't need anything terribly fancy beyond having the ability to overclock and room to possibly SLI my 760 down the road.
Asked this in the Steam thread but I guess it might be better here!
Slightly off-topic (but also slightly on-topic) but I don't really know any good place to ask.
Anyway I have very old router in my house. It works fine but my family is complaining that they want wireless (for their smartphones). I have a very high speed connection:
It should peak at 150mb download and 15 upload I think. But I guess my router is stopping it from getting there. So anyway I wanna get a new one but I remember having a LOT of trouble getting Steam/Games to work on both mine and my sisters computer. If she would play left 4 dead she would always get disconnected and could never play. It took me a week to fix or something so ever since I've been kinda iffy about that stuff but I really need a new one for wireless and getting the max out of the wired connection.
My current setup is my ubee modem from my isp into a switch that is super old. And that one goes to 2 computers. For some reason any other computers/laptops I try to connect on there don't even get internet access at all either.
I was looking at this one: http://www.icidu.com/en/networking/wireless/wireless-gigabit-router-300n.html
So I was wondering if it's any good for me, and will be easy to configure for stuff like the Steam thing. Any advice?
Best would be newest AC router, like Asus AC66U, but few devices has AC capabilities. They are backward compatible and can run N. For N, look at 450mbps ones. I hear good things about the Asus N66U.
As to why you old setup only allows X to have Internet access, you ISP only provides X IP address. If they provide 1 IP, only one device can connect, 2 IP = 2 devices and so on. If you want more devices to work, you need to use a router, not a switch, since they can take 1 IP and provide a hundred virtual internal IPs.
Most of recent routers are good at handling gaming data and/or have included settings for popular services, Xbox Live, Steam and etc. this, it shouldn't be an issue.
The MSI boards are good as are the Gigabyte. MSI G45 gaming for midrange budgets is a great buy GD65 for slightly higher budgets. The Z87X-UD3H from Gigabyte will also be a good buy.
maneil99
Member
Not sure what CPU you have but I'd try using iGPU
His integrated is working fine, he's having trouble getting his discrete to fire.
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