BF4 is DX 11.1 as far as I can tell, first 11.2 game will be Titanfall.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
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BF4 is DX 11.1 as far as I can tell, first 11.2 game will be Titanfall.
Dice say there's some shit in 11.1 that works better in 8. There's some article somewhere.
Not really pc-related but I can't find an answer on the net and most of the tech guys are here.
Basically: I'm very fond of my Samsung Galaxy S3 but I keep thinking there's something wrong with the screen. This is supposed to be a quality phone, but trails on this thing are big and long. Just swiping slowly on forums and you can see a lighter version of any text floating above the original text. Even worse with black colors, especially with spoiler tags on gaf etc. Very long black trail when I swipe around those.
I've thought about the possibility of this being normal but it's a pretty popular phone and I can't find any info about any slow pixel response on this device. It's als weird nobody else has experienced this though... maybe my eyes are just too focused on it?
I don't have a second S3 to test so I can't see if this is normal.
Basically: I'm very fond of my Samsung Galaxy S3 but I keep thinking there's something wrong with the screen. This is supposed to be a quality phone, but trails on this thing are big and long. Just swiping slowly on forums and you can see a lighter version of any text floating above the original text. Even worse with black colors, especially with spoiler tags on gaf etc. Very long black trail when I swipe around those.
I've thought about the possibility of this being normal but it's a pretty popular phone and I can't find any info about any slow pixel response on this device. It's als weird nobody else has experienced this though... maybe my eyes are just too focused on it?
I don't have a second S3 to test so I can't see if this is normal.
This article? http://www.bf4blog.com/battlefield-4-on-windows-8-will-have-better-cpu-optimization/
Because the claim that DX11.1 is better in BF4 with win8 vs Win7 is just the writer coming up with stuff, it is not in the quote.
PoweredBySoy
Banned
GAF, I need help. I have a plethora of PC builds under my belt, but lately I've been having trouble changing my ways and getting away from old tech. And that tech is optical drives. Fuck those things. My last 3 builds have been drive-less, and overall it has been wonderful, except I can't figure out a way to install Windows without one.
I bought an external USB optical drive for drivers, games, whatever - and it works great - but it doesn't ever seem to be bootable. Something about UEFI..... So lately what I've been having to do is temporarily hook up an internal drive, install Windows, then unhook it. Kind of annoying.
What's an easy way to (re)install Windows on a machine without using an optical drive?
I bought an external USB optical drive for drivers, games, whatever - and it works great - but it doesn't ever seem to be bootable. Something about UEFI..... So lately what I've been having to do is temporarily hook up an internal drive, install Windows, then unhook it. Kind of annoying.
What's an easy way to (re)install Windows on a machine without using an optical drive?
Can you borrow a USB pen off someone and use it? Or if you have one use it.
The_Hitcher89
Member
Is there any way of setting a PC to turn off/sleep after a download is done?
FunkyMunkey
Banned
Hey all. What do you think a good price would be as far as selling this used GPU?
EVGA gtx 670 FTW
Has original box, stickers, manual, extra plastics, etc.
Used, but in amazing condition.
Has been overclocked to about 1300 MHz and stable.
Just wondering because I'm probably looking to sell it on here/craigslist/ebay sometime soon and put the money towards a 770.
EVGA gtx 670 FTW
Has original box, stickers, manual, extra plastics, etc.
Used, but in amazing condition.
Has been overclocked to about 1300 MHz and stable.
Just wondering because I'm probably looking to sell it on here/craigslist/ebay sometime soon and put the money towards a 770.
770 isn't worth the upgrade, 780 or wait for AMDs new stuff.
Depends on how much of an upgrade the new AMD stuff is.
7970 Ghz edition is 30% behind the 780 in some titles @ 1440p.
That is a huge jump to make for a non shrink generation.
PoweredBySoy
Banned
Yeah, I have lots of USB sticks, but how do I get Windows on it and boot from it?
edit: found a tutorial....
30% is barely anything and is typical of minor revs. That's like reducing something like MSAAx8 to MSAAx4.
The jump from the GTX600 series to the GTX700 series was between 25-30%.
Like I said I think I expect them to draw equal. Its good for Nvidia anyway, prices need to come down.
Wouldn't buy one of those tbh. Worth extra $ for the Samsungs.
thereisnoif
Member
Are SSHDs subject to limited read/writes like SSDs?
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Absolutely beautiful!!
Pretty much perfect except for that small bend on the bottom pipe - it would drive me nuts since all your other pipes are immaculate.
Why'd you tear it down?
$30 more for the Samsung in Canada. But yeah.
Also available are refurbed 128 gig Crucial m4s for $90
In this article about DDR4:
http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2013/08/samsung-mass-produces-ddr4-which-still-has-nowhere-to-go/
When it says "...DDR4 RAM modules in 16GB and 32GB capacities...", does that mean sets of RAM that are that big (2 or 4 sticks) or single sticks, or I dunno?
http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2013/08/samsung-mass-produces-ddr4-which-still-has-nowhere-to-go/
When it says "...DDR4 RAM modules in 16GB and 32GB capacities...", does that mean sets of RAM that are that big (2 or 4 sticks) or single sticks, or I dunno?
Don't even get me started about that pipe. I had to import a $100 bender with $70 shipping from the UK to get a small enough radius when I do it during the rebuild.
As to why I had to tear it down, blew a cap during over clocking. Mind you, really limited OCing. Only 4.3GHz with 1.35V when it happened. Faulty mobo.
As to why I had to tear it down, blew a cap during over clocking. Mind you, really limited OCing. Only 4.3GHz with 1.35V when it happened. Faulty mobo.
Could you be awesome and share details about the parts for tubing and fittings for that waterloop.
I have been salivating over the hard tubing WC setups over on OCN and I think I may undertake this route when the time comes.
Would mean per stick.
Actually, I just tried looking at pcpartpicker and it shows modules as the total of a set of RAM, so I guess it's actually something like 2x8GB or 4x8GB setups. If 16GB sticks started coming out though, I wouldn't complain :3
polyh3dron
Banned
I don't think I could ever do a liquid cooling system like this, too much time maintaining it and worrying that it'll spring a leak.
But the idea of it is awesome.
Couple of old school turned new questions:
Do different SATA cables matter? also do the ports matter?
I seem to remember something on my old socket 939 board about Sata 1 and 3 being "together" so they couldn't communicate as fast as say, Sata 1 to 2 could.
Second, is it OK to have other hard drives installed while installing Windows 7 to only 1 of them? I also seem to remember this being an issue with Windows XP.
(Or all of this is elitist nonsense and I could have dreamt it all up)
Thanks!
Edit: For those who are interested, (and who helped!) Here are some pics:
http://imgur.com/a/4Y27L
Do different SATA cables matter? also do the ports matter?
I seem to remember something on my old socket 939 board about Sata 1 and 3 being "together" so they couldn't communicate as fast as say, Sata 1 to 2 could.
Second, is it OK to have other hard drives installed while installing Windows 7 to only 1 of them? I also seem to remember this being an issue with Windows XP.
(Or all of this is elitist nonsense and I could have dreamt it all up)
Thanks!
Edit: For those who are interested, (and who helped!) Here are some pics:
http://imgur.com/a/4Y27L
Jeez. Seems a bit sudden to double the amount of RAM in a stick like that. Did something similar happen with DDR2 going to DDR3?
Simple 10mm push fittings. They are available from Performance PC's and Aquatuning. Then 10mm copper pipe too, I get mine from McMasters.
It's actually about as safe and as easy as it gets. Way less chance of a leak compared to standard stuff. Push fittings do not use O rings and were designed with NASA to prevent what happened to the challenger.
The only tough part is learning to bend in the first place.
Thanks, went ahead and did an RMA with Seagate. They'll send me a replacement in 2 days and I can ship back the old one in the same packaging.. Much easier than I expected, which my first instinct was to keep using the old one.
Okay GAF, my 8800 GTX just died, I have $300 to spend, would prefer a Canadian online retailer.
What's the hotness, the GTX 760? Or is the Radeon 79xx (50, 70) a better choice?
Currently eyeballing this: http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=85587&vpn=GV-N760OC-2GD REV2.0&manufacture=Gigabyte
What's the hotness, the GTX 760? Or is the Radeon 79xx (50, 70) a better choice?
Currently eyeballing this: http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=85587&vpn=GV-N760OC-2GD REV2.0&manufacture=Gigabyte
Strange thing while installing windows tonight, system is all together and working beautifully, except on every couple of restarts. It just doesn't come back up. HDD light flashes like theres activity and its doing something, but no video. Power button shuts down the system with just a press. Restart button fixes it fine. Has happened several times now when restarting for various windows updates or drivers. Not every time however.
Hi guys. I'm trying to overclock my new 3570K + MSI Z77A-G45 rig and I have a few questions, I'm a total noob but I read the guides in the OP and I think I understood the basics:
- When I set the voltage from the bios there's usually a discrepancy between the value I set (in this example 1.165v), the value shown by the bios (1.156v) and the value displayed by CPU-Z (1.144v). Is this normal? Apparently it's something that comes with the mainboard since an italian review I read says that happened to them as well. Which voltage value is more trustworthy though? The one in the bios or the one in CPU-Z?
- When I set the card in overclock mode I basically lose the cpu throttling feature. I don't mind terribly but I read somewhere that Ivy Bridge's throttling is something you don't want to disable since it's very good and it prolongs the life of the cpu a lot. SpeedStep (EIST) and C1E are both enabled, still I don't see the cpu going back and forth between 1600Mhz and whatever frequency I set with the multiplier. Is this acceptable or I should try to set throttling back in place?
- Even though I set vDrool to 100% the voltage is still very variable, it can usually go in a ±0.008 range as far as I can tell. It this a motherboard's fault?
Thanks!
- When I set the voltage from the bios there's usually a discrepancy between the value I set (in this example 1.165v), the value shown by the bios (1.156v) and the value displayed by CPU-Z (1.144v). Is this normal? Apparently it's something that comes with the mainboard since an italian review I read says that happened to them as well. Which voltage value is more trustworthy though? The one in the bios or the one in CPU-Z?
- When I set the card in overclock mode I basically lose the cpu throttling feature. I don't mind terribly but I read somewhere that Ivy Bridge's throttling is something you don't want to disable since it's very good and it prolongs the life of the cpu a lot. SpeedStep (EIST) and C1E are both enabled, still I don't see the cpu going back and forth between 1600Mhz and whatever frequency I set with the multiplier. Is this acceptable or I should try to set throttling back in place?
- Even though I set vDrool to 100% the voltage is still very variable, it can usually go in a ±0.008 range as far as I can tell. It this a motherboard's fault?
Thanks!
7950 is quite a bit cheaper and in term of performance the 2 are on par. http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=67546&vpn=GV-R795WF3-3GD&manufacture=Gigabyte&promoid=1282
7950 is insane value right now. If you want nVidia get the 760
Check your temps and shake the case to see if there's anything loose inside causing a short.
Vdroop is normal and those ranges are fine. It's a protective mechanism for the CPU and your voltage is super low so it's not a concern at all.
Throttling might need some lower power states or more idle time to drop back down, not a big deal.
Samsung is an extra $10 which isn't much but the V300 is still a good drive and in day to day stuff you'll not really notice the extra speed. I've been happy with mine over the last 8 months.
Ivy Bridge E launched, but no new motherboards?
4820K is less than 4770K. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/inte...ivy-bridge-quad-core-37ghz-39ghz-turbo-retail Although it will have lesser per core performance to a Haswell by a small amount. It will overclock better to make up for that. Hmm.
4820K is less than 4770K. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/inte...ivy-bridge-quad-core-37ghz-39ghz-turbo-retail Although it will have lesser per core performance to a Haswell by a small amount. It will overclock better to make up for that. Hmm.
No need for new mobos really. All the X79 boards are PCIe 3 already, they'll just BIOS update the current range I imagine.
The_Hitcher89
Member
When using a wireless Xbox 360 controller on a PC, does the controller come with a USB dongle or does the PC automatically connect to it? Or do you need a wired one?
This DS3 driver support looks complicated
This DS3 driver support looks complicated
You need to buy a wireless dongle for a wireless Xbox controller or buy a wired controller. The USB cables does not work with the wireless controller.
Or just follow this guide to getting PS3 controller to work. http://forums.pcsx2.net/Thread-XInput-Wrapper-for-DS3-and-Play-com-USB-Dual-DS2-Controller
Kydd BlaZe
Member
What is the difference between 2x 4GB (8GB) of ram and just one stick of 8 GB ram? I opted to go with one 8 gb stick of corsair vengeance ram. Did I make a mistake?
Better performance with dual channel as it's double the bandwidth. You'll still be fine with one stick though, it's not going to make your PC grind to a halt.
Can't seem to find anything loose, but also can't seem to duplicate the issue. Fantom driver installation woes? Old dying power supply? Guess we'll find out. Thanks for the help.
Quick question.
I have two Radeon HD 7970s in Crossfire mode. Is there a single card out that would give me commensurate performance or higher? I haven't been happy with the overall stability of running these and I'm thinking of going back to a one card setup, but obviously don't want to sacrifice performance.
I have two Radeon HD 7970s in Crossfire mode. Is there a single card out that would give me commensurate performance or higher? I haven't been happy with the overall stability of running these and I'm thinking of going back to a one card setup, but obviously don't want to sacrifice performance.
I've been trying to find the cause of blurring on both my Asus VN247H-P and Dell U2312HM and I think I found it.
Both monitors only share one thing and that's the OD (Overdrive) thingy. I'm not exactly sure but "inverse ghosting" seems to be one of the causes of OD as my problem is very similar to this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yk2cWMkPlG4
A bit similar to this as well: http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9955/cimg8032.jpg
I think I'll try a monitor without any overdrive setting at all next, because I have a feeling it probably is the cause.
Both monitors only share one thing and that's the OD (Overdrive) thingy. I'm not exactly sure but "inverse ghosting" seems to be one of the causes of OD as my problem is very similar to this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yk2cWMkPlG4
A bit similar to this as well: http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9955/cimg8032.jpg
I think I'll try a monitor without any overdrive setting at all next, because I have a feeling it probably is the cause.
Depends on the game, as crossfire still suffers from a number of problems where you might be getting worse performance than a single 7970.
The Titan is really the only option, and even then, it's kind of a crapshoot on when the performance will be better or worse.
What are your 7970s clocked at?
There isn't a single GPU that will do the job right now, although a Titan may get you close in some titles. All other solutions that have comparable performance will still be SLI or Crossfire.
The HD 7990 is two 7970s stapled together on one board with the clock lowered 50Mhz or so I think.
Kydd BlaZe
Member
ok thanks
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