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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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Dawg

Member
You can't see the benefits of a 120Hz monitor using a 60Hz monitor, silly :p

Whoah, screenception

I didn't think about the fact that a 120hz screen in a youtube video on MY screen would blur at a test because my screen blurs :p

But then why would anyone even post a 120hz response test on youtube?!
 

Azulsky

Member
NoRéN;82333329 said:
I don't know why but I guess i just get intimidated. i read all these posts with people running sweet $300 cards on sli and I think "no way is my modest 7850 gonna run what they are running".

I just stick to low-medium settings tops when gaming.

Yeah for the vast majority of folks a $1000 box is high end. You simply start paying for luxuries past that point. The value of parts especially video cards just falls off a cliff.
 

mkenyon

Banned
@Azulsky

Have you thought about checking out the Eizo FDF2405W? VA Panel, 120Hz input, 240Hz display where they use backlight strobing rather than interpolation.

http://www.eizo.com/global/products/duravision/fdf2405w/index.html
Ugh, why did you link that. Now I want a Eizo FDF2405W (and maybe a projector too).

Fuck.
Me too man. Me too.

Just dropped like 8 grand on fencing and an arena. Wife wants us to go buy a truck this weekend.

BUT SWEETIE, NON-TN 120HZ!!!

*edit*

Holy shit, MSRP is $6K.

Sk3tch, get on it!
 

Dawg

Member
A friend of mine is helping me build my first gaming PC. Could any of you guys offer some advice on what you think of this build?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1E95D

Much appreciated.

Took a quick look and it seems your friend knows his shit. Some stuff is personal so I can't comment on everything.

The SSD for example, I'd prefer Samsung.

The RAM seems expensive though, but I don't really have experience with 16GB. Aren't 4 sticks a lot cheaper? Not sure about reliability though.
 

ido

Member
Took a quick look and it seems your friend knows his shit. Some stuff is personal so I can't comment on everything.

The SSD for example, I'd prefer Samsung.

I trust him for sure, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to let more people who know what's up take a look. But that is reassuring, because I honestly do not know very much. Thank you!

Edit: About the RAM, I'm really not sure. This is part of why I wanted to hear what more people said. He pieced it together, so I assume there is a reason, but I'm really not sure. It did seem high, and I've never had more than 6GB of RAM(slow, at that) in a PC before lol.
 

kennah

Member
A friend of mine is helping me build my first gaming PC. Could any of you guys offer some advice on what you think of this build?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1E95D

Much appreciated.

Get a Samsung 840 instead of the OCZ.
Get a 760 instead of a 660. Huge performance increase for $50
Don't spend $24 dollars on those case fans. Only get case fans later if you find your computer running too hot.
Do you really need the blu-ray?
Get a better PSU, Seasonics have been going on sale a lot lately.

Buy at Microcenter in person to get a discount on your cpu+motherboard.

If you can - get a better motherboard, that asrock is in our bad books for misrepresenting the power it pushes to the CPU.

EDIT: Missed that it was 16gig of ram. If you're only gaming you don't need it. If you're working with Virtual Machines or doing media encoding then go for it. General rule is - i5 = 8gig of ram, i7 = 16 gig of ram.
 

kharma45

Member
A friend of mine is helping me build my first gaming PC. Could any of you guys offer some advice on what you think of this build?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1E95D

Much appreciated.

This is a better build. Not sure on the fans (there is really no need for so many though), mouse and keyboard (just check the OP for those, mouse is good iirc) but change the rest to this

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($57.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($203.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($52.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $884.87
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-09-17 14:05 EDT-0400)

Took a quick look and it seems your friend knows his shit. Some stuff is personal so I can't comment on everything.

The SSD for example, I'd prefer Samsung.

The RAM seems expensive though, but I don't really have experience with 16GB. Aren't 4 sticks a lot cheaper? Not sure about reliability though.

If he did he wouldn't be going with so much RAM for one, or that PSU.
 

Anustart

Member
My new computer parts get here tomorrow, except for my monitor and case, those come today. All that's going to do is drive me nuts because I'll want to build it today!!!!

Grabbed a gtx 760 and a 3570k. Finally I'll be able to play act 2 sewers of Diablo 3 without running at 5 fps!

Also looking forward to finally playing The Witcher 2 and continuing my play through of Deus Ex: HR (stopped after the first boss because my experience was being dragged down by poor performance on my laptop.)

Also, the 760 comes with Arkham Origins, so that should be good. I've gotten all my Arkham games free due to GPU purchases. Got Arkham City with my 560 ti and now Origins with the 760. Guess I'll have to breakdown and buy Arkham Asylum with money because I doubt any round of new gpus is going to come with that game free :3
 
So I'm gonna overclock the 3570K in my machine. Is the OC Genie thing in my mobo(A MSI Z77A G45) a no-go? I could swear I've seen people warn against it. Keep in mind my goal is not to push the CPU any further than 4GHz, that should be enough for me.
 

kharma45

Member
So I'm gonna overclock the 3570K in my machine. Is the OC Genie thing in my mobo(A MSI Z77A G45) a no-go? I could swear I've seen people warn against it. Keep in mind my goal is not to push the CPU any further than 4GHz, that should be enough for me.

Do it manually. You might even be able to do 4GHz on stock volts too if you're lucky.
 

kennah

Member
So I'm gonna overclock the 3570K in my machine. Is the OC Genie thing in my mobo(A MSI Z77A G45) a no-go? I could swear I've seen people warn against it. Keep in mind my goal is not to push the CPU any further than 4GHz, that should be enough for me.

OC Genie = overclocks using the fsb + multiplier + putting the volts a little too high to be safe
proper overclocking = overclocks using only the multiplier and the least amount of voltage needed to get the clock.

Read the guides in the OP.
 

mkenyon

Banned
A friend of mine is helping me build my first gaming PC. Could any of you guys offer some advice on what you think of this build?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1E95D

Much appreciated.
Between the fans and the case, he has you spending $75 on the enclosure. I'd look at something else from the OP.

Swap out the ASRock Extreme 3 for a Gigabyte UD3.

Swap out Vertex 4 for Crucial M4, M500, Plex M5/M5M, Samsung 840/Pro/Evo, Kingston V300 or HyperX. Just wait for one of those to go on sale, should be able to grab one for $80-90 at 120/128GB.

*edit* Kharma's post is money.
 

ido

Member
This is a better build. Not sure on the fans (there is really no need for so many though), mouse and keyboard (just check the OP for those, mouse is good iirc) but change the rest to this.

Very much appreciated.

Seriously, you guys have been extremely helpful here. Looking forward to finally being able to run shit properly on my Rift... and finally having a mechanical keyboard again.

Thanks again.
 

Dawg

Member
if he did he wouldn't be going with so much RAM for one, or that PSU.

PSU brand is not known to me (EU), but the ram thing is personal imho. I've seen lots of people buy 16GB. It's futureproof and ram is just so cheap at the moment... it could rise at any point.

I've also seen much much much worse builds tbh :p
 

kharma45

Member
PSU brand is not known to me (EU), but the ram thing is personal imho. I've seen lots of people buy 16GB. It's futureproof and ram is just so cheap at the moment... it could rise at any point.

I've also seen much much much worse builds tbh :p

The brand is Newegg's own, and they do have some good units like the one in my build, but that one is not one.

RAM is pretty expensive at present and is on the rise, it hasn't really been cheap for ages. If you're just gaming 8GB is futureproofing seeing as 4GB is still enough.

Very much appreciated.

Seriously, you guys have been extremely helpful here. Looking forward to finally being able to run shit properly on my Rift... and finally having a mechanical keyboard again.

Thanks again.

No problem. PSU is one things to ensure not to skimp on. If you don't fancy rebates then the BP 550 from Antec is a good buy too for more $5 overall.

That 7950 I posted is also OOS so swap it to this one, still a good 'un http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202026
 

ido

Member
I asked him why he chose 16GB for RAM in the build.

16GB will allow me to make a RAM disk that will hold temporary files and cached items. That means that most files and folders that are created and maintained on a per boot basis won't be taking space on the primary hard drive. Doing this saves a lot of read/writing to your SSD, which helps prolong the life of it.
 

kharma45

Member
What can I safely overclock my 3570k to on the stock cooler? I want a bit of a boost, but didn't grab a hyper 212.

It'll all depend on the temperatures but 4GHz is as far as I'd expect you get. Still, as long as you're below 80c under Prime you could try for a tad higher if you've done well with a good CPU.

I asked him why he chose 16GB for RAM in the build.

SSD life is plenty good as it is. Unless you're writing huge amounts each day it's nothing to worry about.

Your SSD that I have suggested for example, whilst not quite as durable as it's 250GB version, should be good for 20 years plus even when writing 30GB per day. Take a look at the torture test done on the 840 here http://uk.hardware.info/reviews/417...-with-final-conclusion-final-update-20-6-2013
 

mkenyon

Banned
What can I safely overclock my 3570k to on the stock cooler? I want a bit of a boost, but didn't grab a hyper 212.
Agreed with everything Kharma said.

You *should* be able to get 4.0GHz with stock voltages though. Just change the multiplier to 40 and then stress it with Prime 95 Small FFT. After 30 mins or so, check temps. If stable (did not crash), and under 85C, then let it run over night to make sure it's 100% solid.
 
Agreed with everything Kharma said.

You *should* be able to get 4.0GHz with stock voltages though. Just change the multiplier to 40 and then stress it with Prime 95 Small FFT. After 30 mins or so, check temps. If stable (did not crash), and under 85C, then let it run over night to make sure it's 100% solid.

By stock voltages do you mean "auto"? That's what's showing up in my mobo BIOS.
 

Azulsky

Member
@Azulsky

Have you thought about checking out the Eizo FDF2405W? VA Panel, 120Hz input, 240Hz display where they use backlight strobing rather than interpolation.

http://www.eizo.com/global/products/duravision/fdf2405w/index.html

Me too man. Me too.

Just dropped like 8 grand on fencing and an arena. Wife wants us to go buy a truck this weekend.

BUT SWEETIE, NON-TN 120HZ!!!

*edit*

Holy shit, MSRP is $6K.

Sk3tch, get on it!

Lemme just get out my checkbook real quick.

VA 120Hz would be sick though.
 

Dawg

Member
I'm just eagerly awaiting the day we won't need to use lightboost monitors or 120fps/hz to reduce blur.

I believe that one day, we will return to crt motion quality on regular (read: cheap) screens.

inb4 not in my life time
 

Crisco

Banned
I'm not gonna lie, I was extremely disappointed when I first hooked up my TN panel 120hz (actually 144hz) monitor. Out of the box, compared to my old Dell 2407WFP (PVA, not even IPS) it looked like absolute crap. Colors, contrast, viewing angle, I felt like I just wasted $240. After spending some time dialing in the settings on the monitor's OSD, things got better. Finally tried playing a game on it and the jump in refresh rate was very noticeable. Really the best part is being able to play games without having to enable VSYNC since no modern game with all the effects turned up is going to break 144fps (or even 120fps) with my current hardware.
 

Smokey

Member
Srs. That motion blur looks worse than the Texans will on the 29th. :p

*edited damn gaming names working their way into NFL teams

He has the apex of monitors like he said. I'm here to defend those who desire great colors from people like YOU

also I guarantee you lose in two weeks. Seattle ain't ready for this down here. Avy bet bro
 

Azulsky

Member
Srs. That motion blur looks worse than the Texans will on the 29th. :p

*edited damn gaming names working their way into NFL teams

There is zero doubt that it is there and I can see it when looking for it on a window or mouse cursor or that blur test alien racecar driver but nada when ingame
 
Okay, I'm going through VDroop tests as outlined in this tutorial, but I'm not sure if I've found the MSI mobo's equivalent of the Gigabyte's Vcore loadline calibration. I assumed it was the 'Digital Compensation Level' option since that's right under a VDroop option in the MSI BIOS and has similar values(Auto, High), but when I change it to high and run tests with OCCT as shown in that tutorial, there is no difference. In fact, the line doesn't fluctuate at all(like it does here), which leads me to believe I shouldn't worry about this part of the tutorial?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Looks about right:

zRdoBov.png
 

Omega

Banned
Please stop him. Even offer to build.

I did

I don't know what's wrong with him. I'm still going to keep trying but I figured if he absolutely refuses to accept that I might as well make sure his shitty overpriced pre-built actually runs properly.
 
I did

I don't know what's wrong with him. I'm still going to keep trying but I figured if he absolutely refuses to accept that I might as well make sure his shitty overpriced pre-built actually runs properly.

What's his logic? The pre-built machines are just a collection of lower quality components with an overall inflated price.
 

The End

Member
My friend is trying to get into PC gaming and for some reason, is intent on getting a pre-built even though I've given him multiple builds for cheaper.

He's looking at this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229478

only problem is, I'm pretty sure 350w is not going to be enough.

realtalk:

if your buddy is heart set on pre-built and you don't want to be tech support for him for the rest of your life, Digital Storm stuff is relatively well-specced and not terribly overpriced:

http://www.digitalstormonline.com/vanquish.asp
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yeah, the Revolt and the Alienware X51 are pretty well priced for what you get. No superfluous spending on stuff that doesn't matter for games.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Overspending by about $200 on the motherboard. Only reason to buy a Maximus VI Extreme is for e-peen. So much motherboard for such a gimped OC processor. LN2 is the only real reason to buy one of those. CoolerMaster V1000 is $155 right now. $130 after MIR.
 
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