PairOfFilthySocks
Member
Yep, my 3570K sucks ass. Completely fails even 4.3 GHz at 1.25 volts. This sucks 
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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polyh3dron
Banned
Under the Extreme build it should say IB-E, not SB-EUpdated. LMK feedback.
Hazaro's PC Build Sheet - http://bit.ly/GAFPC2013
Old: http://i.imgur.com/IxwIZtd.png
Updated:
But pretty good.. My potential build looks pretty similar to the Extreme one.
But I am starting to think of going with a Ivy Bridge-E setup so I can take advantage of it with music production applications.. I've always wanted to keep my creative stuff on the Mac side of things but the new upcoming Mac Pro looks a bit restrictive and Windows seems to be a lot more stable than it used to be back in the day.
Unknown One
Member
I wonder is there a way to stabilize the overclock other than upping the core voltage? My 4670k is stable at 4.5 ghz at 1.250 core voltage. At 4.6 ghz it's stable at 1.325, but it can boot to windows at 1.250. I tuned it down because I heard 100 ghz was not worth .75 more voltage and 10C higher temps.
Felix Lighter
Member
100 Mhz isn't worth your time and effort if you've hit a nice stable point at reasonable voltage. I kinda got wrapped up in trying to squeeze another 100Mhz out of my CPU back when I had it stable at 3.9 Ghz. That round 4.0 number was a powerful draw. Ultimately, it was a waste of time. I needed to increase voltage by a ridiculous amount to get any more out of the chip.
I have a nzxt phantom. The huge one. At the time I thought I needed a huge tower to get the power I wanted. Now I realize I was wrong. Anyways I want to switch to a bitfenix prodigy because that case is so small and portable. Looks so cool as well. So In order to put my pcs guts into a prodigy I need a new mother board such as this one (ASRock Z77E-ITX Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard). My question is If I were to do this would I need to reinstall windows 7? Can I just put my 3570k onto this new motherboard and hook up my graphics card and harddrives? Operating system is on my samsung ssd and I have a 1tb blue for storage. So would this work without having to buy windows 7 again? I have no idea how that works. I'm new at this. Also would I really have to do anything other than install the new motherboard stuff on my ssd once I get it all assembled?
Also If I do need to reinstall windows 7 would I have to delete everything on my SSD first?
Also If I do need to reinstall windows 7 would I have to delete everything on my SSD first?
Unknown One
Member
I see. I would be pretty worried about the constant stress testing. Those could possibly wear out my CPU faster. I'm glad I picked Haswell over Ivy bridge because after finding a stable voltage I switched the voltage mode to adaptive so the cpu and voltage downclocks when not being stressed. I just got to worry about AVX codes in certain games causing adaptive to draw too much voltage.
Could be the stock cooler and the proc jumping to thermal limits in no time. You need a proper cooler before you can explore OC potential.Yep, my 3570K sucks ass. Completely fails even 4.3 GHz at 1.25 volts. This sucks
That's pretty normal.
Yes, you need to reformat and erase your OS drive. Your storage drive can stay as it is.
You don't _haaave_ to reinstall, but you should. You'll almost certainly have to reactivate. And no, you don't need to buy a new copy of Windows. Best way to reinstall would be to back up important stuff off your SSD and then wipe it clean and reinstall everything.
PairOfFilthySocks
Member
I've got a Hyper 212 Evo in there. I can't imagine what could go wrong here. I'm sure I put the thermal paste on properly too.
PairOfFilthySocks
Member
MSI Z77A-G45
The MSI's equivalent of load line calibration is 'VDroop Offset Control', and I've set that to 100%, which is the equivalent of Extreme, I think.
I'm currently running stablilty test for 4.2, but I realised my RAM apparently came out of the box at over 2000 MHz(according to its description on Amazon anyways). I wonder, assuming that is what it's currently set at, that is what could be causing the poor gains?
shadowsdarknes
Member
Please forgive my noobishness, and I've been trying to figure this out for awhile.
I just put together my rig. I'm in Windows 7 now but I can't get online. I have a usb wifi adapter on the way from newegg, but I'm trying to connect through ethernet and it's not working. I keep getting the Red X on my taskbar. It says I don't have any network drivers installed. But I can't exactly go online to download those drivers.
I have a core i5 4670k and an ASUS Z87 Mobo.
I'm just frustrated.
I just put together my rig. I'm in Windows 7 now but I can't get online. I have a usb wifi adapter on the way from newegg, but I'm trying to connect through ethernet and it's not working. I keep getting the Red X on my taskbar. It says I don't have any network drivers installed. But I can't exactly go online to download those drivers.
I have a core i5 4670k and an ASUS Z87 Mobo.
I'm just frustrated.
Felix Lighter
Member
Yeah, your going to need to install the driver. I would have expected it to be included with your motherboard.
Do you have a laptop or another computer? Download it with that or if you have DVD drive stick the driver disk in there and it will have it.
shadowsdarknes
Member
Hehe oops. It must be that Asus disc that came with my mobo.
Well of course I don't have my disc drive functioning at the moment because I am one SATA cable short.
So I'll look online with my laptop and will use a flash drive.
But she's not hitting 4.4 GHz ever according to CPUZ even though the multiplier is at 44. It'll only get to 4.2-4.3.
Mmmmmmm, I'd check to see what your voltage is in CPU-Z when you are stress testing. I don't think vdroop offset works like that.
That's due to the bclk. Probably some setting that is automatically adjusting/scaling that.
I'll take a look later to see. Can't think what would be doing it though.
PairOfFilthySocks
Member
Running CPU-Z, 4.2GHz @ 1.21v, according to CPU-Z, my core voltage never changes from 1.208v, and this is with VDroop at 100%. Is that right?
Edit: What in the buggering hell, Intel Turbo Boost is enabled. SO is all the stuff above it(EIST, Internal PLL Overvoltage). I definitely remember turning off Turbo, what about the other two? Should they be on or off?
Edit 2: Hang on, you're right, that VDroop offset isn't doing it right at all. CPU-Z and OCCT say 1.21v while the value I had set in the BIOS was 1.24. So...where the heck is the equivalent option for MSI boards?!
I have run out of other options I have done the screwdriver trick on the power pins. I checked all the cables going from my power supply to my motherboard (Asus z87 A) the only thing I get is this stupid green led light on the board when the switch on the power supply is on. I have to assume that the motherboard might be bad or something. I can't tell if I missed something.
If you haven't already, disconnect everything non-essential from the board, even the hard drive. Have CPU / RAM, and if no integrated graphics, your video card.
Re-seat (unplug and plug back in) the RAM and Video Card
Check for loose screws in the case or something that could be shorting against the motherboard.
If it won't boot then, you're probably looking at Motherboard / CPU failure. (probably motherboard)
Dude. You have 34 posts and every single one of them is in this thread.
You are awesome.
OK that clears things up. Will probably use Christmas money to get everything I need and then do that. Hopefully I can sell my current motherboard and phantom on eBay or something. Thank you both.
Diomedes
Member
Had a similar problem recently; would set multiplier to 44 and under testing would max at 4.2, cleared CMOS and reapplied settings did the trick, stable 4.4 now.
Seriously, the voltage reported in software can be wildly inaccurate. Granted, it's an older board, but my X58 reports all kinds of wild voltages. But when I break out a multimeter it's all dead on.
PairOfFilthySocks
Member
Thing is, this review runs into the same issue with a similar board, without a solution:
I think I'm just going to admit defeat at 4.2, but out of curiosity, where do you attach the multimeter?
Ok I took the motherboard out of the case and turned it on using the screwdriver method and the fan for the cpu just sputtered for a second and three red lights turned on the motherboard, they correspond to VGA, Boot and Dram.
Ok just plugged in the hdmi cable and I got Bios screen. But the cpu fan just sputters ever few seconds. Well nevermind, the stupid wire was in the way.
According to the Tomshardware review,
Here we go, this is what it looks like,
If anyone is feeling a little crazy 3960X $525 http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=82410165&postcount=17408
PairOfFilthySocks
Member
Neat. Well, it looks like I'm getting pretty good stability at 1.18V for 4.2GHz. It's odd, though. The VDroop offset control is at 100% and the vcore does not budge from the 1.18 at all, yet it's specified in the BIOS as 1.215. It seems as if the vdroop is doing its job, but the vcore is not at the specified value to start with.
If you can get to the BIOS with the board out of the case (on something like a wooden work bench I hope!) that's probably a good sign. Clean everything up and start re-building piece by piece. Hopefully you'll find what was/is causing all these issues.
Hah well I hope that's a good thing!
Ok new problem, I have the board in the case and anytime I hook up any of the connectors from the case to the board it can't turn on although all the fans in the case work as those are the only that won't cause the motherboard to not turn on. The case is a GIGABYTE GZ-G2 plus and the motherboard is a Asus z87 A.
EDIT: Got everything to work now. although there was a moment when I used the screwdriver and sparks came out on the other side of the board near the bios chip and PCI express ports, it was so fast and then everything was running normally. I don't know what to make of that.
EDIT: Got everything to work now. although there was a moment when I used the screwdriver and sparks came out on the other side of the board near the bios chip and PCI express ports, it was so fast and then everything was running normally. I don't know what to make of that.
Yikes! sounds like a definite short issue. Do you have a motherboard post where you don't need one? Something about that case is causing your issue I think.
I re-screwed the motherboard so it wasn't so tight and I have done multiple boot up and everything seems fine. I'll do proper tests once I have installed Windows.
It's possible.
This is one of those things where its not just 1 persons jobs to make it work well.
Its heavily involves driver optimization and game optimization. Due to the way that GPU's bottleneck you wont see full scaling potential until you hit super high res where the bottleneck falls to something else, like the memory controller.
So you have hardware, software people at Nvidia, and then game developers(LOOKING AT YOU CREATIVE ASSEMBLY) who have to make it work.
Historically it takes till the end of the generation for the SLI scaling efficiency to peak as drivers get better.
I would think they tweak it every generation.
I cant tell the difference in frame timing with my eyes between 1 or 2 cards, at least with Bioshock Infinite. That might be because Im always above my refresh rate and if i had 144Hz it would still be too fast to notice.
SLI only even had microstutter in 2010(400 series) and they patched it out extremely quickly.
Currently, I'm sharing a system with three other people. This is it:
CPU: AMD A8-3800 @2.4GHz quad core
GPU: integrated 6550D
RAM: 8GB 1333MHz
My budget is $350 - $400. I live in MN, U.S., very close to a Micro Center.
Uses: Gaming, general usage, Game Maker/ Unity, Photoshop
Monitor: 1920x1080
I need to run TF2, L4D2, Gone Home, XCOM: EU, Sanits Row 3/4, and lots of 2D indie games. I'd like to run these at 1080p / 30FPS, regardless of settings.
I plan on building sometime in early October.
I won't need to OC.
This is what I have in mind so far, but I'm sure one of you can do better:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1Fej9
Sorry I cluttered it with the wireless card and peripherals, but they factor into my budget. I don't need very much CPU now, but I plan on upgrading to an i5 later. this and the fact that I'll be running Linux made me shy away from an APU. I really appreciate any advice
CPU: AMD A8-3800 @2.4GHz quad core
GPU: integrated 6550D
RAM: 8GB 1333MHz
My budget is $350 - $400. I live in MN, U.S., very close to a Micro Center.
Uses: Gaming, general usage, Game Maker/ Unity, Photoshop
Monitor: 1920x1080
I need to run TF2, L4D2, Gone Home, XCOM: EU, Sanits Row 3/4, and lots of 2D indie games. I'd like to run these at 1080p / 30FPS, regardless of settings.
I plan on building sometime in early October.
I won't need to OC.
This is what I have in mind so far, but I'm sure one of you can do better:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1Fej9
Sorry I cluttered it with the wireless card and peripherals, but they factor into my budget. I don't need very much CPU now, but I plan on upgrading to an i5 later. this and the fact that I'll be running Linux made me shy away from an APU. I really appreciate any advice
noob question, but my brother got a new monitor and gave me his old one and I was going to it up and run dual monitors. One thing I noticed is my graphics card is quite a bit hotter while using two monitors, which I fully expected. The question is, should I be worried? It usually idles at 29-34c and with two monitors it can get upwards of 50-55c with just browsing and streaming netflix.
Running a EVGA 670
Running a EVGA 670
Anton668
Member
so, curiosity has gotten the best of me and I feel the need to ask...
when running multi monitor, how do you cope with the space tween the monitors?? I was watching some vids with ppl with multi monitors and the space tween them kept distracting me. is it something you just get used to? are there monitors that debezleling virtually removes the space?
when running multi monitor, how do you cope with the space tween the monitors?? I was watching some vids with ppl with multi monitors and the space tween them kept distracting me. is it something you just get used to? are there monitors that debezleling virtually removes the space?
Unknown One
Member
Greetings to neogaf from my new pc which contains a 3570k and a gtx 760!!
I missed this so much and can't wait to play games at more than the usual 5 fps
I know that feel
My laptop was degraded to that degree and I had to build a computer so I went on ahead. Mines is a 4670k with a gtx 760.
I know that feel
My laptop was degraded to that degree and I had to build a computer so I went on ahead. Mines is a 4670k with a gtx 760.
In hindsight I should have went with Haswell for emulating Wii and PS2 but oh well!! I'm still loving this machine, and emulation won't be too bad!
Robert Ashley
Member
Overclocking question: I purchased parts with an eye toward overclocking in the future, but was planing on starting my new system off original flavor. Thing I didn't think of: If I install the stock fan that came with my chip, will it be difficult to replace with an aftermarket cooler later? I didn't order a fancy gamer fan, but I want to go ahead and build.
Just adds ~5 minutes of cleaning before you install a new cooler
polyh3dron
Banned
Ehh SB-E is kind of old and busted at this point isn't it?
It's at least not worth that price I don't think, may as well get a new 4960X IB-E for not much more.
EDIT: Damn sticker price for 4960X is $990 holy shit.
That's a $1k processor...and not that much difference in performance..
Did you guys see the Dream Machine 2k13 article from MaximumPC?
http://www.maximumpc.com/dream_machine_2013?page=0,0
Pretty swagging.
Wonder why they went EVGA WB instead of EK or XSPC. I dont even know that the EVGA blocks cool the VRM.
http://www.maximumpc.com/dream_machine_2013?page=0,0
Pretty swagging.
Wonder why they went EVGA WB instead of EK or XSPC. I dont even know that the EVGA blocks cool the VRM.
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