• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

Status
Not open for further replies.
My buddy grabbed all of this the other day. Everything looks good (he has Windows and an old DVD drive to use), but I have concern over the PSU. Do you guys think the PSU will be good enough, or should he just return it when he gets it?
 

Durante

Member
Stuff will work. Some stuff will go slightly faster on other stuff. That's computing. Just get something well rounded that is easily upgradeable. Don't expect shit to last for five years (gpus). Be grateful when they do last for 5 years (Q6600, early i7s)
Enso.jpg


My buddy grabbed all of this the other day. Everything looks good (he has Windows and an old DVD drive to use), but I have concern over the PSU. Do you guys think the PSU will be good enough, or should he just return it when he gets it?
If he doesn't OC heavily he's fine.
 

ekim

Member
Can someone give me some ideas of what to check to diagnose hard locks I've been experiencing for awhile? These aren't even BSOD or anything...just a hard lock with no information on why it happened. Some points:
- I've run memtest+ for almost a full day and have passed every time, zero errors.
- I've switched video cards and the exact same thing has happened.
- I keep my Windows 7 installed on a SSD and media on a separate 1TB HDD. The SSD (I think it's a 64 GB Crucial) has been reformatted fresh with Windows 7 (legit copy) but this did not solve the lock.
- I've run error checking on both hard drives, but issues persists.
- There doesn't appear to be a noticeable pattern...I leave my computer on for the most part and sometimes it will last a few days before locking up.
- It never happens when I'm using my PC...always when idled, at least as far as I can remember.
- All drivers are installed and are the latest ones.

Specs (at work so this is off the top of my head):
I5 ivy bridge 3.4 ghz quad core
GTX 760 4GB
Crucial M4 64 GB SSD
WD 1TB HDD
12 gb Kingston memory (3x4gb sticks)
Windows 7

Honestly, I think it has to do with HDMI output going to my onkyo receiver. I don't have a problem extending the picture or using just the projector output, but I feel like when I close my receiver/TV, it somehow fucks with the drivers or something and causes a hard lock. I can't prove this though, nor re-create it at will. I was thinking maybe a loss of information may have a negative impact.

The only other issue I regularly seem to encounter is transferring large files across my network to other computers...it usually hard locks my comp during the xFer process with around 2 minutes left. I dunno if this is OS related or not though.

Anyways, thanks in advance for any insight.

http://forums.evga.com/tm.aspx?m=1743058#1743058

Maybe this helps? (Realtek audio driver conflicting with the GPUs audio driver)
 

Ty4on

Member

The 8600 GT has more memory bandwidth, but the GT 620 has more GFLOPs and modern games should be optimized for its architecture. I'd say the GT 620 given how my 8600m GT was about as powerful as Intel HD 3000.
The GT 620 also comes in two versions, a rebranded GT 520 (for OEMs) and a rebranded GT 530. The former is 30W while the latter is 49W. Considering the 8600 GT was 43W I really hope the GT 530 beats it with a 50% smaller processing node :p
 

Zomba13

Member
No chance of getting that overclock working again? If you could I'd stick with it and just upgrade your GPU. I'd avoid going multi-GPU too, wait and see how the AMD R9 290X performs if you're going high end before plunging in.

I could probably get the OC working again with a bit of work but it was running quite hot (like 80c+ in games. Didn't used to run that hot I don't think) even with the watercooling and I'm not 100% sure if it was the cause of FFXIV causing my system to fully crash (not had a crash since I reset the bios settings).

Might be better and more stable for me to just get a new CPU (though that would need a new mobo). I don't mind getting a new Mobo and CPU (and I can even give it a go OCing again and seeing how things run and getting even more Ghz than what I can with my current one).
 
I'm pretty much clueless with regard to computer builds (I have read the original post which was a help) and my brother is about to purchase a computer with the following:

yDRmWHt.png

q3sDhMS.png

CdTQllq.png


(apologies for using images, I had to screencapture everything while he was away so I could check them myself and this is more convenient than typing everything out and looking for where he's purchasing everything).

Now, despite not knowing a huge amount (I am slightly more knowledgeable than he is, but not by a significant factor) about computer parts, I feel pretty confident that for the money that is being spent, better, more affordable parts could be chosen. The maximum budget seems to be somewhere in the €800-€900 range including shipping (to Ireland). I haven't said anything to him yet because, as I've mentioned, I'm not hugely knowledgeable and don't want to dissuade him in case that is the best he can do (even though I don't think he should purchase one so soon without doing much research), but I do want to ensure he's not being completely ripped off. Does anybody know a better build for such an amount? His intention is to play games (he wants to 'future proof' it but I'm aware it's a fool's errand with that budget).

If I was to get one myself, I'd personally hold off on a purchase (which is what I'm actually doing as I'm considering a build myself but want to research further and wait to see if the next generation games leads to any jump in specifications or new standards) but he's pretty stubborn about purchasing it in the near future (he was intending to purchase it before next Friday so I'm operating under the assumption that he hasn't already placed an order). Any help would be appreciated because, as I've mentioned, I really don't know enough to check myself or I'd do so and this is the only real assistance (that is, seeking assistance from those who are more knowledgeable) that I can provide.

EDIT: Oh and just for ease:
Your Current Specs: N/A
Budget: €900 (roughly, I'm not sure if there's a limit) + Ireland
Main Use: Gaming. I don't know how 'intensive' he will be so I know that makes it quite difficult. I don't think any image or video editting software will be used.
Monitor Resolution: I don't know, I think a monitor is required; I'm unsure if he has one already.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I don't believe there are any specific requirements.
Looking to reuse any parts?: N/A
When will you build?: He intends to purchase the pieces by next Friday so it could be before that.
Will you be overclocking?: I don't know.

As can be seen, I know that's not very helpful which is why I didn't include it initially.
 

Addnan

Member
How much would Amazon UK shipping to Ireland cost? You need to go Intel if you are gaming. Overclockers ship to Ireland too. The 'great' build in the OP would be better for gaming.
 
Hey guys, I am considering upgrading my computer but I'm not sure if now is a good time or not. Starting to think it might be time to at least upgrade my CPU/GPU. I assume I would need to upgrade my motherboard as well? I have heard rumors from some friends that there might be price drops on graphics cards in November, not sure if anyone knows though?

I currently have (built in June 2010 except I have upgraded the memory and bought the 2 TB HDD):

CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Deneb 3.4GHz Socket AM3 140W Quad-Core Processor
16 GB of RAM: 2x CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-890FXA-UD5 AM3 AMD 890FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
GPU: SAPPHIRE 100281-3SR Radeon HD 5870 (Cypress XT) 1GB 256-bit DDR5 PCI Express 2.0
PSU : CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W
Case: Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
HDD: Western Digital WD Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5 and Western Digital WD Green WD20EZRX 2TB IntelliPower 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5

Do you guys think it would be worth upgrading now or should I wait till early next year or some other time? Price won't be a big issue whenever I do upgrade, I want a machine that will last at least a few years haha. I mainly use my PC for gaming and general use. Some games I currently play or am going to be getting are BF4, Titanfall, Payday 2, Borderlands 2, etc. I'm open to overclocking but I have no experience with it at all.

If I were to upgrade right now, I think I would go with GTX 770 4 GB (unless the 780 would be worth upgrading to instead... Titan is outside of my price range though). For a processor I am fine with any of the i7's listed in the build guide, just not really sure what one would be best for gaming. Thoughts?

Bump
 
How much would Amazon UK shipping to Ireland cost? You need to go Intel if you are gaming. Overclockers ship to Ireland too. The 'great' build in the OP would be better for gaming.

With regards to the cost of delivery, an i7 for example, to be delivered, is only €5 while choosing standard delivery but other products' delivery cost can vary (generally it's not too significant). The CPU was the main thing that caught my attention as I assumed he should be getting an i3, i5 (which would seem the best option considering the budget) or an i7 as opposed to the AMD (which is why I've posted here). I'll suggest the 'great' build if there aren't any more 'specific' suggestions, thanks.
 

Addnan

Member
With regards to the cost of delivery, an i7 for example, to be delivered, is only €5 while choosing standard delivery but other products' delivery cost can vary (generally it's not too significant). The CPU was the main thing that caught my attention as I assumed he should be getting an i3, i5 (which would seem the best option considering the budget) or an i7 as opposed to the AMD (which is why I've posted here). I'll suggest the 'great' build if there aren't any more 'specific' suggestions, thanks.


MSI Z87 G45, 4670K, G.Skill 8GB RAM, BeQuiet Pure power L8 530W, WD 1TB caviar blue, Windows 8 OEM. Graphics card is upto you. With a 7950 this reaches £737 ~€868. Go with GTX 660 and you save around another £70. This is all from Amazon UK since I don't know who else ships there.

Then you pick the case, keyboard and mouse.
 

zbarron

Member
OK so I'm having a problem with my new 4770K. I tried switching the fan on it and it went from 88C in AIDA64 FPU test to 100C with throttling. I switched back to the fan I was using and it is the same high temp. I figured the HSF became a little loose so I took it off, cleaned it, reapplied the thermal paste and tried again and it is still hot. At stock clock it is as hot as it was at 4.5 this morning. Any ideas?
 

crun

Banned
my godddddddd

why are all 7950/7970/r9 280x so long.

My rig is 4 years old.
Code:
Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 CPU 750 2,66GHz @ 3,66 GHz
2x4GB GoodRam 1333 MHz@1444 MHz
ATI reference Powercolor Radeon HD 5850 @ 900/1250 1.1V (can do 950/1300 on a little higher voltage)
OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W
Cooler Master Mystique 631

GPU upgrade would improve my fps greatly. I was aiming for 7950, because it is cheap and has great OC potential.

My current GPU has 24cm and it has maybe 1-1.5cm space left (when it is plugged etc)
Smallest length of AMD GPU (7950 or higher) is 27cm.
Smallest length of GTX 760 is 20 cm. But yea, lets say 24-25cm.

I want a GPU for two generations, then I will upgrade my whole rig.
I can get a GTX 760 for about the price of 7950. Worth upgrading in my case?
 

jbpaz

Member
What are some cheaper alternatives for this build? I want the same performance and I want to keep the 4770k and the 7970 is just there as a placeholder for the R9 280x.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($35.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($87.32 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.95 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7970 3GB Video Card ($299.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.48 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $1211.67
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-08 16:55 EDT-0400)

Anyone?
 

Addnan

Member

What do you mean cheaper alternatives. If it's cheaper it generally doesn't give the same performance. Especially that build looks solid. You could cut the motherboard down to the Biostar in the OP, but that's about it if you want the same performance.
 

kharma45

Member
Are Scan usually cheaper than ebuyer? I usually use ebuyer, amazon or novatech.

Never had a problem with any of them.

I wouldn't say anywhere is cheaper than anywhere else bar Aria with processors, but then they whack £10 delivery onto orders.

i always try to stick to Amazon where possible, just a pity they're not part of Never Settle or any NVIDIA promotions.
 
Which one would be the best one to get out of those? and when do you guys think it'll be for sale or at retail stores? There's a frys close to me so I'm thinking of getting it from there.

I'm a giant fan of Asus and their DirectCU II. My GTX670 had that, and it was virtually silent even under load. I have a Gigabyte Windforce GTX660 in my Steambox that I love too though - so I'd be happy getting either of those in 280X flavor.
 

saelz8

Member
Which one would be the best one to get out of those? and when do you guys think it'll be for sale or at retail stores? There's a frys close to me so I'm thinking of getting it from there.
I have a Fry's too, and I love the place, but a good argument against going there to get GPU's is you pay quite a bit in TAX. That's why I usually buy more expensive things from Newegg. (Amazon is a no go, since we pay TAX there now as well). This is in Texas, BTW.

Then again, 30 or so dollars might be worth it for peace of mind. If you had issues with the card, it would be easy to return it. You wouldn't have to go through the Eggs RMA process.


As far as which model. Asus is looking the best right now, according to the reviews. Quiet, good performance, good cooling, power consumption, etc.

Sapphire seems to have dropped the ball. Vapor-X on the 280x seems to consume a lot of power, and it's loud.

Sapphire AMD Radeon R9 280X Vapor-X OC 3GB Review

ASUS R9 280X DirectCU II TOP Video Card Review
 
Which one would be the best one to get out of those? and when do you guys think it'll be for sale or at retail stores? There's a frys close to me so I'm thinking of getting it from there.

If you get a 280X, get the "DC2T" version. It's only $10 more MSRP and is faster (comes OC'd and stuffs).

That would be this one, in that list... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121803

See below from a review:
ASUS is only commanding a $10 price premium on the ASUS R9 280X DC2T. For that extra $10 you get a slight core clock frequency boost, a more impressive memory clock boost, and custom high-end components. ASUS has outfitted this video card with its DIGI+ VRMs for cleaner voltage, more voltage, and more power delivery. The 8x2 phase setup is superior to the reference 6x2 phase configuration on R9 280X. The lifespan and efficiency of the R9 280X is improved on the ASUS version. The fan is customized and does deliver on its promises. We have the option to raise voltage to 1.4v on this card, well over the default of 1.2v, giving us immense freedom to overclock, hopefully.
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/10/07/asus_r9_280x_directcu_ii_top_video_card_review/9#.UlWzAhCc5I0
 
I have a Fry's too, and I love the place, but a good argument against going there to get GPU's is you pay quite a bit in TAX. That's why I usually buy more expensive things from Newegg. (Amazon is a no go, since we pay TAX there now as well). This is in Texas, BTW.

Then again, 30 or so dollars might be worth it for peace of mind. If you had issues with the card, it would be easy to return it. You wouldn't have to go through the Eggs RMA process.


As far as which model. Asus is looking the best right now, according to the reviews. Quiet, good performance, good cooling, power consumption, etc.

Sapphire seems to have dropped the ball. Vapor-X on the 280x seems to consume a lot of power, and it's loud.

Sapphire AMD Radeon R9 280X Vapor-X OC 3GB Review

ASUS R9 280X DirectCU II TOP Video Card Review

I'm in Texas as well, Houston. I thought Newegg charges tax for Texas? This could be a good point.
 

AndyD

aka andydumi
So I think it may be time for a new power supply.

I am having some PC sleep issues, which I think seem to come from a PSU that no longer provides steady low power to keep the system awake.

Any suggestions on diagnosing the PSU? If not, any suggestions on a good valued PSU that is also quiet? 3570K, 7950 and an SSD, so I imagine something like the suggested Antec BP550 would work?

The BFG I have in now is only a few years old, but since BFG is gone, no RMA chances.
 
So I think it may be time for a new power supply.

I am having some PC sleep issues, which I think seem to come from a PSU that no longer provides steady low power to keep the system awake.

Any suggestions on diagnosing the PSU? If not, any suggestions on a good valued PSU that is also quiet? 3570K, 7950 and an SSD, so I imagine something like the suggested Antec BP550 would work?

The BFG I have in now is only a few years old, but since BFG is gone, no RMA chances.

- try an alternate PSU if you have one/can borrow one
- maybe try booting into Linux on a USB stick, put it into sleep mode and see if it behaves properly (might point to a windows software issure)
- any bios settings that might affect low-power states??

debating if i should just get a 280x, or build a whole new pc

running a 3 year old i7 8 gigs ram
What GPU do you have , and what CPU is that?
 

AndyD

aka andydumi
- try an alternate PSU if you have one/can borrow one
- maybe try booting into Linux on a USB stick, put it into sleep mode and see if it behaves properly (might point to a windows software issure)
- any bios settings that might affect low-power states??


What GPU do you have , and what CPU is that?

Sadly no other power supply.
But I can try a linux usb stick and see how it works out.
And I reset bios to default and cleared the CMOS, so should not be an issue there.
 

Chum

Member
Is de-lidding Haswell a suggested practice if you're shooting for a moderate to good OC (i7 4770K, 4.2-4.5 Ghz) on air?
 
radeon 5850
Intel Core i7-860 Lynnfield 2.8GHz LGA

Are you gaming at 1080p? If I were you I would OC your cpu, and just get the new vid card. If then you found that performance was still lacking you could update the other components, having already gotten the new gpu...

I did a quick look and your 860 should be kinda comparable to my 2500k. OC it and it's still a pretty fast processor for gaming. IMO.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom