UK Gaffers, where are you buying your components? Anyone using places other than overclockers.co.uk?
Scan.co.uk, Amazon, Aria, Ebuyer, CCL. They are all great. I usually stick with Amazon and Scan.
UK Gaffers, where are you buying your components? Anyone using places other than overclockers.co.uk?
Stuff will work. Some stuff will go slightly faster on other stuff. That's computing. Just get something well rounded that is easily upgradeable. Don't expect shit to last for five years (gpus). Be grateful when they do last for 5 years (Q6600, early i7s)
If he doesn't OC heavily he's fine.My buddy grabbed all of this the other day. Everything looks good (he has Windows and an old DVD drive to use), but I have concern over the PSU. Do you guys think the PSU will be good enough, or should he just return it when he gets it?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EnsoI don't understand the reference
Can someone give me some ideas of what to check to diagnose hard locks I've been experiencing for awhile? These aren't even BSOD or anything...just a hard lock with no information on why it happened. Some points:
- I've run memtest+ for almost a full day and have passed every time, zero errors.
- I've switched video cards and the exact same thing has happened.
- I keep my Windows 7 installed on a SSD and media on a separate 1TB HDD. The SSD (I think it's a 64 GB Crucial) has been reformatted fresh with Windows 7 (legit copy) but this did not solve the lock.
- I've run error checking on both hard drives, but issues persists.
- There doesn't appear to be a noticeable pattern...I leave my computer on for the most part and sometimes it will last a few days before locking up.
- It never happens when I'm using my PC...always when idled, at least as far as I can remember.
- All drivers are installed and are the latest ones.
Specs (at work so this is off the top of my head):
I5 ivy bridge 3.4 ghz quad core
GTX 760 4GB
Crucial M4 64 GB SSD
WD 1TB HDD
12 gb Kingston memory (3x4gb sticks)
Windows 7
Honestly, I think it has to do with HDMI output going to my onkyo receiver. I don't have a problem extending the picture or using just the projector output, but I feel like when I close my receiver/TV, it somehow fucks with the drivers or something and causes a hard lock. I can't prove this though, nor re-create it at will. I was thinking maybe a loss of information may have a negative impact.
The only other issue I regularly seem to encounter is transferring large files across my network to other computers...it usually hard locks my comp during the xFer process with around 2 minutes left. I dunno if this is OS related or not though.
Anyways, thanks in advance for any insight.
Anyone ?
No chance of getting that overclock working again? If you could I'd stick with it and just upgrade your GPU. I'd avoid going multi-GPU too, wait and see how the AMD R9 290X performs if you're going high end before plunging in.
UK Gaffers, where are you buying your components? Anyone using places other than overclockers.co.uk?
PC noob question. what's the best and most lightweight app i can use do monitor my temps?
Hey guys, I am considering upgrading my computer but I'm not sure if now is a good time or not. Starting to think it might be time to at least upgrade my CPU/GPU. I assume I would need to upgrade my motherboard as well? I have heard rumors from some friends that there might be price drops on graphics cards in November, not sure if anyone knows though?
I currently have (built in June 2010 except I have upgraded the memory and bought the 2 TB HDD):
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Deneb 3.4GHz Socket AM3 140W Quad-Core Processor
16 GB of RAM: 2x CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-890FXA-UD5 AM3 AMD 890FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
GPU: SAPPHIRE 100281-3SR Radeon HD 5870 (Cypress XT) 1GB 256-bit DDR5 PCI Express 2.0
PSU : CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W
Case: Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
HDD: Western Digital WD Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5 and Western Digital WD Green WD20EZRX 2TB IntelliPower 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5
Do you guys think it would be worth upgrading now or should I wait till early next year or some other time? Price won't be a big issue whenever I do upgrade, I want a machine that will last at least a few years haha. I mainly use my PC for gaming and general use. Some games I currently play or am going to be getting are BF4, Titanfall, Payday 2, Borderlands 2, etc. I'm open to overclocking but I have no experience with it at all.
If I were to upgrade right now, I think I would go with GTX 770 4 GB (unless the 780 would be worth upgrading to instead... Titan is outside of my price range though). For a processor I am fine with any of the i7's listed in the build guide, just not really sure what one would be best for gaming. Thoughts?
HWmonitor can keep track of most parts of the computer.
How much would Amazon UK shipping to Ireland cost? You need to go Intel if you are gaming. Overclockers ship to Ireland too. The 'great' build in the OP would be better for gaming.
With regards to the cost of delivery, an i7 for example, to be delivered, is only 5 while choosing standard delivery but other products' delivery cost can vary (generally it's not too significant). The CPU was the main thing that caught my attention as I assumed he should be getting an i3, i5 (which would seem the best option considering the budget) or an i7 as opposed to the AMD (which is why I've posted here). I'll suggest the 'great' build if there aren't any more 'specific' suggestions, thanks.
Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 CPU 750 2,66GHz @ 3,66 GHz
2x4GB GoodRam 1333 MHz@1444 MHz
ATI reference Powercolor Radeon HD 5850 @ 900/1250 1.1V (can do 950/1300 on a little higher voltage)
OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W
Cooler Master Mystique 631
UK Gaffers, where are you buying your components? Anyone using places other than overclockers.co.uk?
What are some cheaper alternatives for this build? I want the same performance and I want to keep the 4770k and the 7970 is just there as a placeholder for the R9 280x.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($35.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($87.32 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.95 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7970 3GB Video Card ($299.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.48 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $1211.67
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-08 16:55 EDT-0400)
They've been there for a week, same with the 290x.
They've been there for a week, same with the 290x.
Anyone?
The two Asus cards are listed as 256-bit while all the others are 384. Why would that be?
What's your budget ? I guess if you are in for some hardcore stuff, I'd recommend you pick up one of the enthusiast proposals in the OP.Bump
Difficult to go lower if you stick to your components of choice. I am not certain you need a CPU cooler at all.Anyone?
Typo, of course. All 7970's/280x's have a 384-Bit Bus.
Scan is normally the best. OcUK second.
Are Scan usually cheaper than ebuyer? I usually use ebuyer, amazon or novatech.
Never had a problem with any of them.
Which one would be the best one to get out of those? and when do you guys think it'll be for sale or at retail stores? There's a frys close to me so I'm thinking of getting it from there.
I have a Fry's too, and I love the place, but a good argument against going there to get GPU's is you pay quite a bit in TAX. That's why I usually buy more expensive things from Newegg. (Amazon is a no go, since we pay TAX there now as well). This is in Texas, BTW.Which one would be the best one to get out of those? and when do you guys think it'll be for sale or at retail stores? There's a frys close to me so I'm thinking of getting it from there.
Which one would be the best one to get out of those? and when do you guys think it'll be for sale or at retail stores? There's a frys close to me so I'm thinking of getting it from there.
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/10/07/asus_r9_280x_directcu_ii_top_video_card_review/9#.UlWzAhCc5I0ASUS is only commanding a $10 price premium on the ASUS R9 280X DC2T. For that extra $10 you get a slight core clock frequency boost, a more impressive memory clock boost, and custom high-end components. ASUS has outfitted this video card with its DIGI+ VRMs for cleaner voltage, more voltage, and more power delivery. The 8x2 phase setup is superior to the reference 6x2 phase configuration on R9 280X. The lifespan and efficiency of the R9 280X is improved on the ASUS version. The fan is customized and does deliver on its promises. We have the option to raise voltage to 1.4v on this card, well over the default of 1.2v, giving us immense freedom to overclock, hopefully.
I have a Fry's too, and I love the place, but a good argument against going there to get GPU's is you pay quite a bit in TAX. That's why I usually buy more expensive things from Newegg. (Amazon is a no go, since we pay TAX there now as well). This is in Texas, BTW.
Then again, 30 or so dollars might be worth it for peace of mind. If you had issues with the card, it would be easy to return it. You wouldn't have to go through the Eggs RMA process.
As far as which model. Asus is looking the best right now, according to the reviews. Quiet, good performance, good cooling, power consumption, etc.
Sapphire seems to have dropped the ball. Vapor-X on the 280x seems to consume a lot of power, and it's loud.
Sapphire AMD Radeon R9 280X Vapor-X OC 3GB Review
ASUS R9 280X DirectCU II TOP Video Card Review
Nah, they don't. Amazon on the other hand. I'm still bitter about Amazon.I'm in Texas as well, Houston. I thought Newegg charges tax for Texas? This could be a good point.
Huh, looks like Newegg pulled the 280's down now.
So I think it may be time for a new power supply.
I am having some PC sleep issues, which I think seem to come from a PSU that no longer provides steady low power to keep the system awake.
Any suggestions on diagnosing the PSU? If not, any suggestions on a good valued PSU that is also quiet? 3570K, 7950 and an SSD, so I imagine something like the suggested Antec BP550 would work?
The BFG I have in now is only a few years old, but since BFG is gone, no RMA chances.
What GPU do you have , and what CPU is that?debating if i should just get a 280x, or build a whole new pc
running a 3 year old i7 8 gigs ram
They haven't been there for a week. Models weren't even announced until Tuesday. Less than 2 Days isn't a Week.
- try an alternate PSU if you have one/can borrow one
- maybe try booting into Linux on a USB stick, put it into sleep mode and see if it behaves properly (might point to a windows software issure)
- any bios settings that might affect low-power states??
What GPU do you have , and what CPU is that?
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What GPU do you have , and what CPU is that?
Depends on your chip, HS, and how noise sensitive you are.Is de-lidding Haswell a suggested practice if you're shooting for a moderate to good OC (i7 4770K, 4.2-4.5 Ghz) on air?
radeon 5850
Intel Core i7-860 Lynnfield 2.8GHz LGA