Support NeoGAF

[Dr_Boris_Goltz]

Hard to get a good one for that money. Since a premium of a few hundred dollars is applied to prebuilts. Telling us the country where he is based would be a good start.

EDIT:
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX46484

Tomorrow ONLY Canada.


BenQ
XL2420TX 24in Widescreen 3D LED LCD w/ 3D Vision 2 Glasses Kit (Refurbished)
$299

Frig.

Sorry I left out some details and worded my post poorly. He is in the US, and he doesn't need a monitor, mouse, keyboard, speakers, etc... Just a solid computer for gaming in that budget range. The only thing he said he MUST have is a SSD.

 

[Sleeping Lesson]

Sorry I left out some details and worded my post poorly. He is in the US, and he doesn't need a monitor, mouse, keyboard, speakers, etc... Just a solid computer for gaming in that budget range. The only thing he said he MUST have is a SSD.

That's not a great price range to buy pre-built, as it is generally assumed anyone wanting a good gaming PC will build their own. That being said, there are several companies like I Buy Power that would gladly overcharge your friend for a decent (not great) machine.

 

[Dreams-Visions]

GAF, HELP!

So I just picked up this Roccat Kone XTD to replace my failing 3 year-old Logitech G700 and am hitting some setup snags.

Here's what I want to do: map buttons to keyboard keys.

Now, the way I've done this is by using the Macro manager to record the single buttons. This is different than how I would have done it with my G700, and noticeably more complex, but it worked.

Sort of.

The problem I'm having with the Macro approach is that mapped button presses aren't always recognized. For example, let's say I've mapped the side button to key "G". If I open Notepad and press "G" 5 times rapidly (say, in 2 seconds), it may only register 3 or 4 of the presses (in other words, fewer letters will appear in the Notepad document than the total number of times I pressed the button). It consistently does this. Where with my G700, all of the presses are recognized every time, regardless of key. The problem here is obvious: I can't completely depend on the macro system for key assignments where multiple, rapid presses are necessary because they only register repeated button presses for me about 80% of the time. Even right now, double-tapping the side button as like I would press one of main left/right buttons yields 1 recognized button press about 80% of the time. I need to be able to double-tap these buttons and have reliable recognition of the pressing.

I'm wondering if there is something I can do to increase the consistency with which the mouse recognizes these key-assigned button presses? I've tried adding a few milliseconds between the down and up pressing in the Macro Manager, and I've looked up and down their configuration software for a simple, "map to keyboard key" option but have found none. I also tried adjusting the double click speed, but that only relates to the main left/right mice buttons. Am I missing something terribly obvious? I'd rather not send the mouse back to Amazon as I believe it's a beautiful mouse, but I need to know that when I press a key-assigned button twice rapidly, it will recognize both presses.

Hoping for an answer that makes me feel like an idiot because I really want to keep this mouse.

edit: another example. I have one of the mouse buttons mapped to the key "1" on my keyboard. If I rapidly press that mouse button in Notepad, it will recognize maybe 2 out of every 3 presses. Even the configuration software doesn't recognize all of the presses on these mapped buttons (it has a built-in counter).

 

[LordAlu]

Damn, those DS cases are really nice looking too. Just wondering about the graphics card space, since it says "up to 320mm". Something like the GTX 780 is 266mm, but you still need clearance for the cables.

You can remove the external drive cages if you need extra room for cabling. Not that anyone generally uses an external 3.5" bay (or most of the time even an external 5.25" bay) anyway

My original idea was to go mATX, wish I'd stuck to it.

Same. I went full ATX with a Corsair 500R case and whilst I love it I kinda wish I went for something a bit smaller!

Stupid question, but I keep seeing these boards with onboard sound. You can still add your own sound card right? I'm not quite ready to give up my Xonar just yet. I mean, I know that most of the regular ATX boards had onboard sound, so is it just randomly not on mATX boards, or on the boards that have it, does it take up an expansion slot?

mATX boards usually have onboard sound and it doesn't use one of the expansion slots. It's actually why I didn't go mini-ITX at the time, as my Xonar DG is fantastic for me with the built-in headphone amp.

 

[BlazinAm]

How's this SeaSonic M12II 620W PSU for $59.99 shipped?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-101213-Index-_-PowerSupplies-_-17151095-L06A

Gonna be using it for a 3570k @ 4.4GHz, 280x 3GB or 770 4GB.

The 12V rails on that power supply don't carry a lot of current.

 

[MagicWithEarvin]

The 12V rails on that power supply don't carry a lot of current.

So, what does that mean for me in the long run?

 

[RumblingRosco]

That's pretty awesome, thanks. Just removed 6gb worth of crap.

edit: Uh, I don't know what the hell happened, but it said that I'd be removing close to 6gb worth of files, yet when I deleted them the remaining space on my disk was exactly the same. So I ran the cleanup again, and apparently all of the previous files were deleted, so I have no idea what's going on.

I had this issue too and I forgot to mention it, but once you restart your PC it'll finalize some clean-up (it literally says something about "Cleaning" or something) and then once the reboot is complete you'll have your extra 6 GB of space.

 

[SpyGuy239]

Hi GAF, I need your help! PC is acting up, and while I usually know how to fix these problems, this one has really stumped me.

Problem: PC just freezes after a set amount of time when gaming (40 mins to 1 hour). The game just freezes, the mouse and keyboard are unresponsive, and the sound just freezes as well and goes on that loop. I have 2 screens, so I can see the GPU and CPU monitoring gadgets on the other screen, and they are frozen as well. I have to hard reset me computer to do anything else. Thing is, there’s no BSOD or dump file (I use blue screen viewer for this), and I can’t figure out what the problem is. This freezing is not the end of the world, but I kinda sucks when you’re engrossed in the middle of an intense multiplayer match or single player mission.

This only seems to happen when I'm playing games though, because I can leave my PC on for days on end (>2.5 days at the least) doing work, typing, browsing, reading etc. and the computer never once locks up or gives any problems.

I used to run 2x 560Ti in SLI and thought that was the problem, so I eventually gave up on it and tried running each 560Ti in single, but the freezing still happened. Anyway I sold off the 2 graphics cards to fund my 3 week old GTX 770 but this freezing still continues to happen. My PSU is not entirely old either, and I only replaced it 3 months ago to try out SLI. I have freshly installed Windows 7 once in this period when I got my new SSD, and before I started running the GTX 560Ti in single.
I’ve tried over 4 differed freshly installed nvidia drivers at this point, including the latest beta one for BF4, but this does not seem to be the issue. Even tried updating my Realtek audio drivers to the latest ones, but to no avail.
One thing to note, is that I’ve tried switching my RAM to 2 different slots, then the ones they are in now, and my PC will have some trouble booting into the bios, so I’m not sure if those slots are fault or what’s the story. I want to suspect it’s a RAM problem, so I can easily get them replaced and solve all the problems, but this doesn’t explain why the freezing happens while gaming and not if my PC is on for a few days busy with work.

PC Specs:
i7 860 Stock with Xigmatek Cooler (temps never go above 64 degrees Celsius on 100% load)
8gb DDR3 Ram XMP profile available, but running on stock
P55a UD4P motherboard
Samsung 840 Pro 128gb SSD – This is the drive the OS is on and software like browsers and MS Office, no games etc.
4 other WD HDDs, Blu-Ray drive
XFX 800W PSU (Silver)
Gigabyte GTX 770 4GB (temperatures never go above 72 degrees Celsius on 100% load)

What do I do GAF? Thanks in advance.

 

[schandmann]

So, what does that mean for me in the long run?

Nothing. Your system's power consumption should be WAY below that anyway.

 

[Sanctuary]

I don't have an SSD on my current system, and haven't felt like I actually needed one yet, plus I don't believe my motherboard can use them to their fullest speed without an additional card anyway. I plan on getting one for the OS with my next build, but is it really worth putting games on them? Because you can't really put your entire library of games on a 250gb drive. I've seen the "put games that you play a lot on an SSD" suggestion, but then what happens when you feel like playing another game that's not on it, uninstall one to add another? Thinking about just getting a 2TB drive for games and being done with it. The higher density platters should make loading a snap anyway, and I'm not sure saving 1-3 seconds per loading screen will matter.

What matters to me is if in games that are constantly loading in the background whether or not an SSD removes much, if not all of the stutter.

I had this issue too and I forgot to mention it, but once you restart your PC it'll finalize some clean-up (it literally says something about "Cleaning" or something) and then once the reboot is complete you'll have your extra 6 GB of space.

Haha, yeah. I had actually intended to post about this a little while ago, but decided not to. When I shut down my PC last night it was doing something (I thought it was just an update), and then when I turned it on today, it was taking an unusually long time to get to desktop. I wondered if it was finishing up the Windows Update clean or whatever, and that's what it was doing.

 

[MagicWithEarvin]

Nothing. Your system's power consumption should be WAY below that anyway.

Alright, not like I'll be OC'ing like crazy with multiple GPUs and monitors. Single card, single monitor is good enough for me. As long as I get 1080 @ 60 FPS (stable) on most games, I'm fine with that.

 

[Unknown One]

I don't really care for loading speed so I just put my OS on the SSD. Most of my programs are on my 1 TB HDD.

 

[Sanctuary]

GAF, HELP!

edit: another example. I have one of the mouse buttons mapped to the key "1" on my keyboard. If I rapidly press that mouse button in Notepad, it will recognize maybe 2 out of every 3 presses. Even the configuration software doesn't recognize all of the presses on these mapped buttons (it has a built-in counter).

From my experience, trying to use a macro as a remap just doesn't work that great since there's always a delay with the macro. You should be able to remap through the Windows registry though. There's also KeyTweak, but I'm not sure if it works with a mouse or not.

 

[schandmann]

I don't have an SSD on my current system, and haven't felt like I actually needed one yet, plus I don't believe my motherboard can use them to their fullest speed without an additional card anyway. I plan on getting one for the OS with my next build, but is it really worth putting games on them? Because you can't really put your entire library of games on a 250gb drive. I've seen the "put games that you play a lot on an SSD" suggestion, but then what happens when you feel like playing another game that's not on it, uninstall one to add another? Thinking about just getting a 2TB drive for games and being done with it. The higher density platters should make loading a snap anyway, and I'm not sure saving 1-3 seconds per loading screen will matter.

What matters to me is if in games that are constantly loading in the background whether or not an SSD removes much, if not all of the stutter.

An SSD is worth it for Windows and your frequently used programs alone. The difference in OS responsiveness is crazy.

And nobody says you have to install all of your games to the SSD. You can always run games that don't benefit from the SSD from your HDD via SteamMover.

 

[CreepingFear]

Hi GAF, I need your help! PC is acting up, and while I usually know how to fix these problems, this one has really stumped me.

Problem: PC just freezes after a set amount of time when gaming (40 mins to 1 hour). The game just freezes, the mouse and keyboard are unresponsive, and the sound just freezes as well and goes on that loop. I have 2 screens, so I can see the GPU and CPU monitoring gadgets on the other screen, and they are frozen as well. I have to hard reset me computer to do anything else. Thing is, there’s no BSOD or dump file (I use blue screen viewer for this), and I can’t figure out what the problem is. This freezing is not the end of the world, but I kinda sucks when you’re engrossed in the middle of an intense multiplayer match or single player mission.

This only seems to happen when I'm playing games though, because I can leave my PC on for days on end (>2.5 days at the least) doing work, typing, browsing, reading etc. and the computer never once locks up or gives any problems.

I used to run 2x 560Ti in SLI and thought that was the problem, so I eventually gave up on it and tried running each 560Ti in single, but the freezing still happened. Anyway I sold off the 2 graphics cards to fund my 3 week old GTX 770 but this freezing still continues to happen. My PSU is not entirely old either, and I only replaced it 3 months ago to try out SLI. I have freshly installed Windows 7 once in this period when I got my new SSD, and before I started running the GTX 560Ti in single.
I’ve tried over 4 differed freshly installed nvidia drivers at this point, including the latest beta one for BF4, but this does not seem to be the issue. Even tried updating my Realtek audio drivers to the latest ones, but to no avail.
One thing to note, is that I’ve tried switching my RAM to 2 different slots, then the ones they are in now, and my PC will have some trouble booting into the bios, so I’m not sure if those slots are fault or what’s the story. I want to suspect it’s a RAM problem, so I can easily get them replaced and solve all the problems, but this doesn’t explain why the freezing happens while gaming and not if my PC is on for a few days busy with work.

PC Specs:
i7 860 Stock with Xigmatek Cooler (temps never go above 64 degrees Celsius on 100% load)
8gb DDR3 Ram XMP profile available, but running on stock
P55a UD4P motherboard
Samsung 840 Pro 128gb SSD – This is the drive the OS is on and software like browsers and MS Office, no games etc.
4 other WD HDDs, Blu-Ray drive
XFX 800W PSU (Silver)
Gigabyte GTX 770 4GB (temperatures never go above 72 degrees Celsius on 100% load)

What do I do GAF? Thanks in advance.

Have you checked Event Viewer at all? If you have access to an extra power supply or ram, I'd swap those out and see if they make a difference seeing as how you say both temps on the cpu and gpu are fine.

 

[chaosblade]

Looking for suggestions on something cheap.

My brother's PC has a three core Athlon II (w/ AM3 motherboard). CPU isn't doing well OC'd anymore (I had it OC'd, but it started getting BSOD's after a couple years so I reverted back to stock and it fixed it) and the fourth core can't be unlocked. GPU also needs an upgrade but that's easy to figure out, and everything else is good enough (well, his case sucks, but that's not important at the moment). Whatever he gets is probably going to be Christmas gifts, he's in high school and doesn't have a job.

With upcoming games wanting more CPU cores I'm wondering if AMD's offerings might be better than Intel's. An overclocked 6300 and a decent motherboard seems like it might last longer than a 2C/4T for the same price (or less), especially since it's not really overclockable.

No idea that's really a good idea or not, and it seems like most AMD motherboards, especially anything fairly cheap, isn't any good and won't handle OCing well anyway. And once you're looking at $120+ motherboards that eliminates a big part of AMD's price advantage. I assume this has been answered dozens of times, but here it is again.

 

[kennah]

You pretty much answered your own question. Overclocking amd requires a great board and a lot of power and cooling.

Best bet- find a used socket 1155 K series i5

 

[Mogwai]

I don't have an SSD on my current system, and haven't felt like I actually needed one yet, plus I don't believe my motherboard can use them to their fullest speed without an additional card anyway. I plan on getting one for the OS with my next build, but is it really worth putting games on them? Because you can't really put your entire library of games on a 250gb drive. I've seen the "put games that you play a lot on an SSD" suggestion, but then what happens when you feel like playing another game that's not on it, uninstall one to add another? Thinking about just getting a 2TB drive for games and being done with it. The higher density platters should make loading a snap anyway, and I'm not sure saving 1-3 seconds per loading screen will matter.

What matters to me is if in games that are constantly loading in the background whether or not an SSD removes much, if not all of the stutter.

I was in same boat before I got my SSD. I like to have all games installed and ready for play. But some games just have too high performance loss with a regular HDD (Diablo 3 and Arkham City just to name a few).

I just felt that a SSD was too good tech to not have in a gaming computer. I can live with managing my games instead of installing it all. My 256GB can't hold it all, but with a sensible management it's definitely enough for me.

 

[TronLight]

My monitor just committed suicide. Can someone suggest a decent monitor for around 150€?
24" top (otherwise I don't have the space), resolution 1080p, I don't care about 3D or 120hz.

A decent image quality would be appreciated. :lol

What about this: http://www.amazon.it/dp/B004T2LMP2/

Italian amazon, sorry, this is the model Asus VE247H

 

[Meia]

Well, thanks to GAF I built my first gaming PC 2 years ago, and because of the build, I haven't felt the need to upgrade since, which is great.


Back then, I got a 560 Ti(448 cores), and it's still the card I'm currently using. I'm finding myself in a bit of money at the end of the year, so this is the only real glaring thing I need to upgrade, but it raises a problem. I've had my eye on the GTX 770(for the record, only interested in Nvidia atm since I want to game in 3D), and can easily buy one now, but am worried that I'd do so, only to have an 800 series announced like a month later. Am I better off just holding off for that, or pull the trigger on the 770?

 

[Sanctuary]

My monitor just committed suicide. Can someone suggest a decent monitor for around 150€?
24" top (otherwise I don't have the space), resolution 1080p, I don't care about 3D or 120hz.

A decent image quality would be appreciated. :lol

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008484Q6E/?tag=neogaf0e-20

That's what I currently have, although I also bought mine for speed (input lag/sub 1-frame). I have no complaints with the image quality either, although getting a good backlight is like playing the lottery. I had to return three of them before getting one I could accept. The "blacks" are still not remotely comparable to my plasma, and there's still some backlight bleeding in darker scenes which is annoying. For the price though, it's a fantastic screen.

You might be able to find a similar or better for less without the 3D. I wasn't particularly looking for 3D, simply a fast IPS with great colors out of the box. It has pretty close to calibrated numbers without even needing to calibrate. Eventually I'll also be looking for another monitor, but I don't expect to get what I want for less than $500.

 

[TronLight]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008484Q6E/?tag=neogaf0e-20

That's what I currently have, although I also bought mine for speed. I have no complaints with the image quality either, although getting a good backlight is like playing the lottery. I had to return three of them before getting one I could accept. The "blacks" are still not remotely comparable to my plasma, and there's still some backlight bleeding in darker scenes which is annoying. For the price though, it's a fantastic screen.

You might be able to find a similar or better for less without the 3D. I wasn't particularly looking for 3D, simply a fast IPS with great colors out of the box. It has pretty close to calibrated numbers without even needing to calibrate.

It's 250€ in Italy, way over budget. :|

How about this one? http://www.amazon.it/dp/B004T2LMP2/

Asus VE247H

 

[Sanctuary]

It's 250€ in Italy, way over budget. :|

How about this one? http://www.amazon.it/dp/B004T2LMP2/

Asus VE247H

Whoa, my bad. For some reason I thought that was pounds. All I can suggest is that you look for monitors in the range you're willing to spend and see if you can find any reviews on them from more than a few sources.

 

[Mogwai]

Well, thanks to GAF I built my first gaming PC 2 years ago, and because of the build, I haven't felt the need to upgrade since, which is great.


Back then, I got a 560 Ti(448 cores), and it's still the card I'm currently using. I'm finding myself in a bit of money at the end of the year, so this is the only real glaring thing I need to upgrade, but it raises a problem. I've had my eye on the GTX 770(for the record, only interested in Nvidia atm since I want to game in 3D), and can easily buy one now, but am worried that I'd do so, only to have an 800 series announced like a month later. Am I better off just holding off for that, or pull the trigger on the 770?

I would wait if I were you. As you're already planned ahead of you, the 2GB VRAM is getting even more criminal at your time of purchase.

Added: I don't know if you were actually considering the 4GB version of the 770, but the low VRAM is really an Achilles' heel when looking at its price tag.

 

[chaosblade]

You pretty much answered your own question. Overclocking amd requires a great board and a lot of power and cooling.

Best bet- find a used socket 1155 K series i5

Used prices don't seem much lower than new prices. Occasional one sells for a low price but 2500k and 3570k seem to go for $170 or so.

A used i5 2400 looks like it might be in the realistic price range ($120, maybe $130). Not sure it's worth investing in a dead end socket for, still better than AM3+ though.

 

[schandmann]

Used prices don't seem much lower than new prices. Occasional one sells for a low price but 2500k and 3570k seem to go for $170 or so.

A used i5 2400 looks like it might be in the realistic price range ($120, maybe $130). Not sure it's worth investing in a dead end socket for, still better than AM3+ though.

The 3350P is within that range and a bit faster than the 2400.
AFAIK Socket 1150 (Haswell) is as "dead end" as 1155.

 

[kennah]

Used prices don't seem much lower than new prices. Occasional one sells for a low price but 2500k and 3570k seem to go for $170 or so.

A used i5 2400 looks like it might be in the realistic price range ($120, maybe $130). Not sure it's worth investing in a dead end socket for, still better than AM3+ though.

All sockets are dead. Accepting that is part of the path to happiness.

 

[Meia]

I would wait if I were you. As you're already planned ahead of you, the 2GB VRAM is getting even more criminal at your time of purchase.

Added: I don't know if you were actually considering the 4GB version of the 770, but the low VRAM is really an Achilles' heel when looking at its price tag.

Should've specified, yeah was looking at the 4gb since it's only like $50 more anyway.


I'm not unhappy with the performance of the 560 even now, but know when I get a new Lightboost monitor end of the year 3d will be suddenly usable for me, so going to need the extra power. Just worried that an 800 series would be much better than the 770, almost making it silly having spent the money.

Though I guess if I'm always worried about upgrading for that reason, I never will.

 

[Sanctuary]

Should've specified, yeah was looking at the 4gb since it's only like $50 more anyway.


I'm not unhappy with the performance of the 560 even now, but know when I get a new Lightboost monitor end of the year 3d will be suddenly usable for me, so going to need the extra power. Just worried that an 800 series would be much better than the 770, almost making it silly having spent the money.

Though I guess if I'm always worried about upgrading for that reason, I never will.

Well, the 8xx series is supposedly right around the corner, so the situation is slightly different than if it was a year or two away and you wanted to upgrade right now.

 

[FlyingSaucer]

Well, thanks to GAF I built my first gaming PC 2 years ago, and because of the build, I haven't felt the need to upgrade since, which is great.


Back then, I got a 560 Ti(448 cores), and it's still the card I'm currently using. I'm finding myself in a bit of money at the end of the year, so this is the only real glaring thing I need to upgrade, but it raises a problem. I've had my eye on the GTX 770(for the record, only interested in Nvidia atm since I want to game in 3D), and can easily buy one now, but am worried that I'd do so, only to have an 800 series announced like a month later. Am I better off just holding off for that, or pull the trigger on the 770?

I'm somewhat in the same situation as you (wanting to replace my 560 Ti with a 770), but I've just realized I may have a problem : my Asrock Z68 motherboard / i5 2500K CPU mean no PCI express 3.0.

Is it a really major problem for a 770 ? Or should I buy an ivy bridge CPU too ?

Please help me to decide, PC GAF

 

[NinjaCatfish]

I'm somewhat in the same situation as you (wanting to replace my 560 Ti with a 770), but I've just realized I may have a problem : my Asrock Z68 motherboard / i5 2500K CPU mean no PCI express 3.0.

Is it a really major problem for a 770 ? Or should I buy an ivy bridge CPU too ?

Please help me to decide, PC GAF

I am pretty sure a 770 won't saturate a PCI-e 2.0 slot but I may be wrong.

 

[Ty4on]

I'm somewhat in the same situation as you (wanting to replace my 560 Ti with a 770), but I've just realized I may have a problem : my Asrock Z68 motherboard / i5 2500K CPU mean no PCI express 3.0.

Is it a really major problem for a 770 ? Or should I buy an ivy bridge CPU too ?

Please help me to decide, PC GAF

It's not a problem AFAIK for the Titan or 690 so no.

 

[Sectorseven]

What's a fair price for a used i5 2500k and mobo?

 

[kharma45]

I am pretty sure a 770 won't saturate a PCI-e 2.0 slot but I may be wrong.

It won't at all.

 

[FlyingSaucer]

Thanks a lot to both of you !

 

[Shawn6661]

GAF PC Europe, i need your knowledge.

As Windows 8.1 is coming next week, its time to kiss XP goodbye. We had good times but im not sure WinXP handles SSDs very well.

Here is my problem, i live in France and i can't find a store to preorder Win8.1, i can only find the old 8. I read its coming October the 17th, is it only retail in the US ? It's strange because i can find 8.1 preorder on Amazon Germany but not on the french or UK Amazon.
I don't want to buy 8 and update to 8.1, its kinda stupid and not clean.

 

[Dreams-Visions]

From my experience, trying to use a macro as a remap just doesn't work that great since there's always a delay with the macro. You should be able to remap through the Windows registry though. There's also KeyTweak, but I'm not sure if it works with a mouse or not.

Found a solution in the configuration software. Regular key mapping was just under a configuration option who's name I didn't recognize.

Now very happy with the mouse.

 

[Foxtastical]

Hey guys, would a GA-P55A-UD3 work with a GTX 760? What's my options for upgrading the GPU on a GA-P55A-UD3?

 

[Hazaro]

What's a fair price for a used i5 2500k and mobo?

180-230

GAF PC Europe, i need your knowledge.

As Windows 8.1 is coming next week, its time to kiss XP goodbye. We had good times but im not sure WinXP handles SSDs very well.

Here is my problem, i live in France and i can't find a store to preorder Win8.1, i can only find the old 8. I read its coming October the 17th, is it only retail in the US ? It's strange because i can find 8.1 preorder on Amazon Germany but not on the french or UK Amazon.
I don't want to buy 8 and update to 8.1, its kinda stupid and not clean.

Just install classic shell until the 8.1 upsate hits. It's a free update right? Of course its clean.

Hey guys, would a GA-P55A-UD3 work with a GTX 760? What's my options for upgrading the GPU on a GA-P55A-UD3?

Shove in anything.

 

[chaosblade]

The 3350P is within that range and a bit faster than the 2400.
AFAIK Socket 1150 (Haswell) is as "dead end" as 1155.

All sockets are dead. Accepting that is part of the path to happiness.

I thought Broadwell was using 1150. Shows how out of the loop I am. My 4.5GHz 2500k still seems like it has some years left in it so I haven't followed CPUs in a long time.

Buying parts is a lot easier when you aren't ridiculously budget limited. I could be looking at as low as $250 for motherboard + CPU + GPU, that's pretty tight. I've been considering upgrading my GPU this round instead of holding out for 20nm. Maybe my 5850 could serve as a decent enough hand-me-down and could at least get him through next year and he could just get a CPU + motherboard this year.

180-230

Suggestions for where to find things at that price point? 2500k goes for almost $180 alone on Ebay from what I saw.

 

[dorkimoe]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202046&ignorebbr=1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121803&ignorebbr=1

does it matter which of these i get?

 

[kennah]

I thought Broadwell was using 1150. Shows how out of the loop I am. My 4.5GHz 2500k still seems like it has some years left in it so I haven't followed CPUs in a long time.

Buying parts is a lot easier when you aren't ridiculously budget limited. I could be looking at as low as $250 for motherboard + CPU + GPU, that's pretty tight. I've been considering upgrading my GPU this round instead of holding out for 20nm. Maybe my 5850 could serve as a decent enough hand-me-down and could at least get him through next year and he could just get a CPU + motherboard this year.



Suggestions for where to find things at that price point? 2500k goes for almost $180 alone on Ebay from what I saw.

The intel hd 4600 is probably as fast as that 5850

 

[No Love]

Should've specified, yeah was looking at the 4gb since it's only like $50 more anyway.


I'm not unhappy with the performance of the 560 even now, but know when I get a new Lightboost monitor end of the year 3d will be suddenly usable for me, so going to need the extra power. Just worried that an 800 series would be much better than the 770, almost making it silly having spent the money.

Though I guess if I'm always worried about upgrading for that reason, I never will.

FYI There is a GAF member that sells brand new GTX 770 4 GB's for $300 shipped in the B/S/T thread.

 

[theshizzle]

Suggestions for where to find things at that price point? 2500k goes for almost $180 alone on Ebay from what I saw.

Look at your local craigslist. I've seen 2500k's as low as $100. Also, look in the Buy/Sell/Trade thread in the gaming community tab. There are frequently good deals on used mobos and processors.

 

[No Love]

Ok as for my own question... just realized that I don't really think my case is up to snuff for my current/future plans. Running these two 780's takes up a lot of space, and I want to add another 2-3 SSD's into the case.

So, what is the best current case I can buy in terms of space + cooling + looks + ease of use? Price doesn't matter, I just want something that's amazing for someone running SLI + OC'ing + plans to run multiple SSD's in RAID and wants to do air cooling and maybe eventual water cooling.

 

[Ty4on]

The intel hd 4600 is probably as fast as that 5850

What?! The 5850 is more powerful than the 650ti and even the 640 is faster than HD 4600. Remember that 58XX were high end while 59XX were dual GPU.

Ok as for my own question... just realized that I don't really think my case is up to snuff for my current/future plans. Running these two 780's takes up a lot of space, and I want to add another 2-3 SSD's into the case.

So, what is the best current case I can buy in terms of space + cooling + looks + ease of use? Price doesn't matter, I just want something that's amazing for someone running SLI + OC'ing + plans to run multiple SSD's in RAID and wants to do air cooling and maybe eventual water cooling.

Blowers? You could look at the FT02. It's biggest problem is being poor for dual/triple fan cooled GPUs because the heat pipes won't work well in a horizontal position. It is made from anodized aluminium and with the three big fans in the bottom has excellent cooling for the GPUs and CPU. Positive pressure also helps dust build up and is great for blower GPUs.

Water cooling takes it to a new level.

 

[Gumbie]

Right now my PC is...

-i7 3770 3.4ghz (Not K)
-8GB Memory
-EVGA 670 GTX 2gb

Realistically how much longer do you guys think I'll be able to use ultra or high settings at 1080p? Right now everything is smooth but I know some games next year will be pushing it pretty hard.

 

[VisceralBowl]

My buddy's PC is almost done (I'm building it). He wants to use a 360 controller before he fully transitions over to M/KB. Should he go wired or use a wireless adapter? (cheaper option is preferred)

Also, what is a good wireless adapter? (I hear there are a lot of poor quality fakes.)

 

[No Love]

What?! The 5850 is more powerful than the 650ti and even the 640 is faster than HD 4600. Remember that 58XX were high end while 59XX were dual GPU.


Blowers? You could look at the FT02. It's biggest problem is being poor for dual/triple fan cooled GPUs because the heat pipes won't work well in a horizontal position. It is made from anodized aluminium and with the three big fans in the bottom has excellent cooling for the GPUs and CPU. Positive pressure also helps dust build up and is great for blower GPUs.

Water cooling takes it to a new level.

Only 1 of my 780's is a dual fan blower so I think it'd be ok.

That case is freaking amazing looking. Is it better than the FT03?

 

[Sectorseven]

My buddy's PC is almost done (I'm building it). He wants to use a 360 controller before he fully transitions over to M/KB. Should he go wired or use a wireless adapter? (cheaper option is preferred)

Also, what is a good wireless adapter? (I hear there are a lot of poor quality fakes.)

With the rave reviews the new console controllers are getting, I'd say wait a month for one of those. Both are expected to support PCs.