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[JustinBB7]

I always hesitate about picking a 4770K instead of a 4670K. Obviously it will not be worse, but there is not really a benefit in game performance, while it is quite a lot higher priced.

Unless you do specific stuff that makes use of hyperthreading I'd say just get a 4670K. But I must note that I do not know whether upcoming games will make use of hyperthreading (if they are CPU limited at all) or that you use programs that make use of hyperthreading.

And what graphics card are you gonna pick?

Also, you can pick RAM that takes less space in your case if it is cheaper. Unless you like how this looks.

I'd recommend the Tweakers pricewatch btw if you are shopping for Dutch parts.

EDIT: How long it will go with the times pretty much is going to depend on what graphics card you are going to take, the rest is fine.

I just want to be safe, if games in the future (and with next gen coming now they might) use features that are on the 4770k I'd rather have that one, instead of having to upgrade again. I don't do anything specific right now that needs it, just future proofing, I'll look at the 4670K as well. 4770k is pretty expensive. Just checked and it's about 100 euros difference. But think I'd rather future proof at this point.

I have a GTX 580 now, and might upgrade that at a later point. It runs fine for now.

And yea I am using tweakers, got about 50 euros off total, not that much, and have to order from 4 different places for that too lol.

 

[DripDropDrippin]

What kind of deals can we expect on Black Friday/Cyber Monday?

I am looking to do almost a complete overhaul of my computer.

I want to upgrade to an i5-4670k, new motherboard, 8 or 16GB of DDR-1600 RAM, new SSD, and a CM HAF 932 or HAF X case. Right now I have a 7870 in my rig but I don't have the best monitor. I run games at 1600x???. I can't remember off the top of my head. After completing these upgrades, I plan on getting a new video card (280x) and a monitor in early 2014.

The only concern I have is that I might have to upgrade my PSU. Presently have a Antec 650W.

Do you think this is worthwhile for me?

I am coming from an i5-750, 4GB DDR-1333 RAM, standard 7200RPM HDD.

Microcenter presently has a deal for the i5 and AsRock Z87 Extreme4 as a bundle for about $326 with tax, in-store pickup. I don't know if I should bite the bullet and get that now or would it be smart to wait and see what deals will be coming at the end of November.

Thank you for the help guys, I appreciate it very much.

 

[kharma45]

Sorry for the triple bump, just want to make sure

Also added PC Part picker stuff to make a list of all the things I will have combined then:

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1Vxq2
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1Vxq2/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1Vxq2/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($149.98 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($162.84 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($169.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.98 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: Cooler Master Silent Pro M 1000W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($157.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1044.77
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-31 11:29 EDT-0400)

I live in Holland so prices won't matter much, it will mostly be for gaming, sometimes streaming and just want it to last 3/4 years with maybe a new graphics card at some point. Just sick of living in fear of crashing/freezing every time I move my mouse.

Change your board to the Gigabyte UD3H. The MSI has shitty VRMs compared to it.

 

[pa22word]

Okay, just got my 780 installed and ready to run, but this is the first time I've been back to team green since the 6xxx days so I'm a little overwhelmed at the moment...

I got downsampling up and running, but my TV is throwing a fit when I try to set it to 4k under the custom resolutions. I'm using HDMI, so I set it to 30hz, but even then it only runs for a few seconds before going to black screen.

Also, what's the best method of installing drivers on teem green nowadays? On my 5870 I was having to jump through all kinds of hoops to get them to install correctly in a way that wouldn't totally borke CCC, but I imagine (hope) the grass is indeed greener over here on Nvidia's side. Should I just download the newest drivers and run them? Or should I uninstall and run Driver cleaner in both safe mode and non safe mode like I was doing with my 5870 (just to be safe)?

Also, how do I turn on Boost 2.0 to get the higher clock rate (1033 Mhz iirc)? I have basically no experience working with the Nvidia control panel, so be as thorough as possible if you could.

 

[Addnan]

Okay, just got my 780 installed and ready to run, but this is the first time I've been back to team green since the 6xxx days so I'm a little overwhelmed at the moment...

I got downsampling up and running, but my TV is throwing a fit when I try to set it to 4k under the custom resolutions. I'm using HDMI, so I set it to 30hz, but even then it only runs for a few seconds before going to black screen.

Also, what's the best method of installing drivers on teem green nowadays? On my 5870 I was having to jump through all kinds of hoops to get them to install correctly in a way that wouldn't totally borke CCC, but I imagine (hope) the grass is indeed greener over here on Nvidia's side. Should I just download the newest drivers and run them? Or should I uninstall and run Driver cleaner in both safe mode and non safe mode like I was doing with my 5870 (just to be safe)?

Also, how do I turn on Boost 2.0 to get the higher clock rate (1033 Mhz iirc)? I have basically no experience working with the Nvidia control panel, so be as thorough as possible if you could.

Some TVs/Monitors just don't like high downsamples. http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=509076 Go through the thread if you haven't, there are custom timings and stuff that you can mess about with.

As for drivers, just install over it. Nothing special involved. If you have Geforce experience installed it will download it for you and notify you to install.

 

[JustinBB7]

Change your board to the Gigabyte UD3H. The MSI has shitty VRMs compared to it.

Alright I changed that, it now looks like this combined:
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1VyN6
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1VyN6/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1VyN6/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($149.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($157.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($169.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.98 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: Cooler Master Silent Pro M 1000W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($147.83 @ Amazon)
Total: $1064.76
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-31 12:43 EDT-0400)

Should be fine for a few years then right.

 

[pa22word]

As for drivers, just install over it. Nothing special involved. If you have Geforce experience installed it will download it for you and notify you to install.

Yeah Geforce experience came with the drivers on the disc I had (320.something). Fake edit: and yay the new driver started downloading as soon as I updated it.

You know anything about how to get Boost working? That's what I'm mostly worried about because the performance boosts seem like it's well worth it.

Oh and BTW thanks for that downsampling link! I haven't ended up getting a true 4k res working yet, but I did get OPs faux 4k Res running just fine!

 

[kharma45]

Alright I changed that, it now looks like this combined:
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1VyN6
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1VyN6/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1VyN6/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($149.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($157.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($169.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.98 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: Cooler Master Silent Pro M 1000W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($147.83 @ Amazon)
Total: $1064.76
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-31 12:43 EDT-0400)

Should be fine for a few years then right.

Do you really need 1000w? Something like this http://us.ncix.com/products/?usaffi...vpn=P1-750B-BEFX&manufacture=XFX&promoid=1089 or this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00918MEZG/?tag=neogaf0e-20 would be much better. First one for multi GPU, second for single GPU.

 

[JustinBB7]

Do you really need 1000w? Something like this http://us.ncix.com/products/?usaffi...vpn=P1-750B-BEFX&manufacture=XFX&promoid=1089 or this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00918MEZG/?tag=neogaf0e-20 would be much better. First one for multi GPU, second for single GPU.

Oh I already have that one, I bought a few years ago because it was only 10 euros more than a 750W one.

 

[Addnan]

Yeah Geforce experience came with the drivers on the disc I had (320.something). Fake edit: and yay the new driver started downloading as soon as I updated it.

You know anything about how to get Boost working? That's what I'm mostly worried about because the performance boosts seem like it's well worth it.

Oh and BTW thanks for that downsampling link! I haven't ended up getting a true 4k res working yet, but I did get OPs faux 4k Res running just fine!

Linus did a short video of how to overclock with Boost 2.0. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDDPCDNZNlg It's for Titan, but 780 is the same.

 

[pa22word]

Linus did a short video of how to overclock with Boost 2.0. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDDPCDNZNlg It's for Titan, but 780 is the same.

Awesome, thanks!

And holy shit that was the most painless driver installation I've ever done o_o; I didn't even have to reboot, lol...

Nvidia starting out with that good first impression!

EDIT: Okay, so I do I need EVGA precision to get it to work? Or can I use the Nvidia control panel to turn it on? I've been digging around in the CP settings but I've yet to find anything that would allow me to turn on boost mode.

 

[maneil99]

Awesome, thanks!

And holy shit that was the most painless driver installation I've ever done o_o; I didn't even have to reboot, lol...

Nvidia starting out with that good first impression!

EDIT: Okay, so I do I need EVGA precision to get it to work? Or can I use the Nvidia control panel to turn it on? I've been digging around in the CP settings but I've yet to find anything that would allow me to turn on boost mode.

Boost mode is always on unless you disable it with a modded bios.

 

[pa22word]

Boost mode is always on unless you disable it with a modded bios.

Ahhh, okay thanks. On my 5870 I remember having to go in and flipping a switch in the control panel to let me "OC" the thing to 900 Mhz so I figured this was the same.

Also, if boost is always on then why do they list two different speeds on the card's page on newegg and such? Seems pointless if the higher frequency is always enabled. Regardless, thanks to all who helped! Now I've got some Crysis 3 and Batman AO to cream with this monster >

 

[kharma45]

Oh I already have that one, I bought a few years ago because it was only 10 euros more than a 750W one.

Ah no worries! It all looks good then.

 

[JustinBB7]

Ah no worries! It all looks good then.

Alright gonna order it now then, my current setup is freezing every 5 to 10 minutes, never been so angry.

 

[IMACOMPUTA]

Anyone?

Is a 700w PSU enough for
2x280x
I5 3570k (4.3 OC)
?

I'm thinking not.
Any good deals on power supply's? Modular preferred obviously but not required.

 

[DripDropDrippin]

What kind of deals can we expect on Black Friday/Cyber Monday?

I am looking to do almost a complete overhaul of my computer.

I want to upgrade to an i5-4670k, new motherboard, 8 or 16GB of DDR-1600 RAM, new SSD, and a CM HAF 932 or HAF X case. Right now I have a 7870 in my rig but I don't have the best monitor. I run games at 1600x???. I can't remember off the top of my head. After completing these upgrades, I plan on getting a new video card (280x) and a monitor in early 2014.

The only concern I have is that I might have to upgrade my PSU. Presently have a Antec 650W.

Do you think this is worthwhile for me?

I am coming from an i5-750, 4GB DDR-1333 RAM, standard 7200RPM HDD.

Microcenter presently has a deal for the i5 and AsRock Z87 Extreme4 as a bundle for about $326 with tax, in-store pickup. I don't know if I should bite the bullet and get that now or would it be smart to wait and see what deals will be coming at the end of November.

Thank you for the help guys, I appreciate it very much.

Can anyone lend some insight? I would be most grateful.

 

[Addnan]

Anyone?

What power supply is it?

 

[opticalmace]

Can anyone lend some insight? I would be most grateful.

If it were me I would just get an SSD and maybe an extra 4GB of ram and then a monitor at some point.

 

[Tallshortman]

Can anyone lend some insight? I would be most grateful.

650W PSU will be fine for your build, no need to replace it.

 

[vehn]

I just bought Astro A50s from Amazon, but it turns out my motherboard doesn't have an optical connection. Should I buy a new Motherboard (got mine early 2010) or just buy a soundcard (OR buy a SPDIF -> optical connector)?

edit: I'll just buy the Xonar DGX soundcard in the OP

 

[Nastrodamous]

I just bought Astro A50s from Amazon, but it turns out my motherboard doesn't have an optical connection. Should I buy a new Motherboard (got mine early 2010) or just buy a soundcard (OR buy a SPDIF -> optical connector)?

edit: I'll just buy the Xonar DGX soundcard in the OP

dont they all come with mix amps?

 

[pa22word]

So even though I know someone told me it should be on by default, EVGA precision is telling me I'm still on the base clock instead of boost mode:

Anyone know how I put the card into boost? Card is the Gigabyte Windforce OC 780.

 

[Addnan]

It will boost when it is put under load. There is no option to turn it on/off.

 

[pa22word]

It will boost when it is put under load. There is no option to turn it on/off.

Okay, cool. Just making sure!

 

[Unknown One]

So even though I know someone told me it should be on by default, EVGA precision is telling me I'm still on the base clock instead of boost mode:

Anyone know how I put the card into boost? Card is the Gigabyte Windforce OC 780.

You can get GPU-Z and run a game to check if boost mode is activated. Boost mode activates when you run a game.

 

[chickdigger802]

boost is a bit like turbocharged cars from what i gather. its not gonna be up when you aren't gaming or computing.

 

[kittoo]

GAF I just ordered Galaxy hall of fame edition GTX 780. Seeing how 780Ti was going to be ridiculously expensive, 290x has little overclocking potential etc. and how HOF edition 780 beats the shit out of even Titan and overclocks like hell (of course beating a 290x too), I placed the order. I am getting it cheaper than I would get a stock GTX 780 (even after price drop) or 290x here in India.
Did I do a mistake? It was the right choice, right? Gaf?

 

[chickdigger802]

GAF I just ordered Galaxy hall of fame edition GTX 780. Seeing how 780Ti was going to be ridiculously expensive, 290x has little overclocking potential etc. and how HOF edition 780 beats the shit out of even Titan and overclocks like hell (of course beating a 290x too), I placed the order. I am getting it cheaper than I would get a stock GTX 780 (even after price drop) or 290x here in India.
Did I do a mistake? It was the right choice, right? Gaf?

yep. huge mistake. might as well leave your house. you shamed your family.

Spoiler

Give context lol. What would classify as a 'mistake'?

 

[Kunohara]

Is it safe to update firmware for a Samsung 840? Just wondering if it is worth it. Also, the software for the SSD is saying that it is not connected to a SATA connection (when in fact it is, is this normal)?

There is also an option of OS Optimization, is that worth doing as well? Should I bother?

 

[vehn]

dont they all come with mix amps?

my a50 came with a mix amp and I can plug it in with USB, but I think you can only get 5.1 sound with an optical connection, which my motherboard doesn't have

 

[Phrozenflame500]

Hi guys, I have no clue what I'm doing. So I was wondering if anybody could look at my build and inform me if I'm making a bad choice and/or my build has a high probability of exploding:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($248.00 @ Vuugo)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($31.06 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($158.75 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($67.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra Plus 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($104.50 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($68.50 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280X 3GB Video Card ($366.00 @ Vuugo)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WN7200ND 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($20.26 @ DirectCanada)
Case: Corsair 400R ATX Mid Tower Case ($88.58 @ DirectCanada)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($98.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($18.40 @ DirectCanada)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - OEM (64-bit) ($105.39 @ DirectCanada)
Total: $1376.41
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-31 18:01 EDT-0400)

This will primarily be used for gaming @ 1080p 60fps, and everything needs to be able to ship to Canada. Thanks in advanced for possibly saving the life of me/my family.

 

[Azulsky]

GAF I just ordered Galaxy hall of fame edition GTX 780. Seeing how 780Ti was going to be ridiculously expensive, 290x has little overclocking potential etc. and how HOF edition 780 beats the shit out of even Titan and overclocks like hell (of course beating a 290x too), I placed the order. I am getting it cheaper than I would get a stock GTX 780 (even after price drop) or 290x here in India.
Did I do a mistake? It was the right choice, right? Gaf?

You have done well Apprentice

You shall be known as Darth kittoo

 

[maneil99]

Hi guys, I have no clue what I'm doing. So I was wondering if anybody could look at my build and inform me if I'm making a bad choice and/or my build has a high probability of exploding:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($248.00 @ Vuugo)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($31.06 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($158.75 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($67.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra Plus 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($104.50 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($68.50 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280X 3GB Video Card ($366.00 @ Vuugo)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WN7200ND 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($20.26 @ DirectCanada)
Case: Corsair 400R ATX Mid Tower Case ($88.58 @ DirectCanada)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($98.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($18.40 @ DirectCanada)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - OEM (64-bit) ($105.39 @ DirectCanada)
Total: $1376.41
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-31 18:01 EDT-0400)

This will primarily be used for gaming @ 1080p 60fps, and everything needs to be able to ship to Canada. Thanks in advanced for possibly saving the life of me/my family.

Why not use NCIX? Don't buy a windows 8 key from retail if possible. There are a bunch of people here and on reddit that sell student keys for 10-20$

Maybe go with a 770. And if you want to save 50-100$ go for a 3570k bundle from NCIX

 

[Phrozenflame500]

Why not use NCIX? Don't buy a windows 8 key from retail if possible. There are a bunch of people here and on reddit that sell student keys for 10-20$

Maybe go with a 770. And if you want to save 50-100$ go for a 3570k bundle from NCIX

I was just using PCPartPicker's default settings, will look at NCIX for possible lower prices. I'll also look elsewhere for a Windows 8 key if it's that cheap.

Will the 2 GB of VRAM on the 770 matter compared to the 3 GB on the 280X?

 

[maneil99]

Im doing a fresh install with 8.1 vs my 8. Good idea? I know some drivers aren't compatible ect

 

[maneil99]

I was just using PCPartPicker's default settings, will look at NCIX for possible lower prices. I'll also look elsewhere for a Windows 8 key if it's that cheap.

Will the 2 GB of VRAM on the 770 matter compared to the 3 GB on the 280X?

Not that much. Its up to you really. whatever is cheaper and consider the games you get free with the 770. ( Blacklist and AC4 I think)

 

[Dick Justice]

So does the refresh rate of your TV/monitor affect screen tearing? Asking because I used Nvidia inspector to limit the framerate to 60FPS, but then noticed some nasty tearing in Saints Row IV. Switched to 50FPS, and the tearing was gone. My TV's refresh rate is 50HZ.

 

[kennah]

So does the refresh rate of your TV/monitor affect screen tearing? Asking because I used Nvidia inspector to limit the framerate to 60FPS, but then noticed some nasty tearing in Saints Row IV. Switched to 50FPS, and the tearing was gone. My TV's refresh rate is 50HZ.

Yes that is exactly what causes tearing.

 

[ekim]

So does the refresh rate of your TV/monitor affect screen tearing? Asking because I used Nvidia inspector to limit the framerate to 60FPS, but then noticed some nasty tearing in Saints Row IV. Switched to 50FPS, and the tearing was gone. My TV's refresh rate is 50HZ.

Your tv should also support 60hz. Check your settings in windows and set it to 60hz if possible. I had the same issue.

 

[Nastrodamous]

Instead of getting a ps4 i think im just going to get a 1440p monitor, is a r9 280x enough? or should i return it and get a 780, or just buy another 280x

 

[TekGryphon]

Instead of getting a ps4 i think im just going to get a 1440p monitor, is a r9 280x enough? or should i return it and get a 780, or just buy another 280x

You tell us.

 

[Dick Justice]

Your tv should also support 60hz. Check your settings in windows and set it to 60hz if possible. I had the same issue.

Just checked this again, I noticed that the tearing was still there in the game after switching to 50fps, so I turned off the frame limiter altogether, and the tearing was completely gone. Strange. Is that known to happen with Nvidia Inspector? Are there other ways of limiting the framerate? I enabled it in the first place because the framerate in Max Payne 3 kept fluctuating above 60fps, whch made it look a bit less smooth than expected.

 

[Phrozenflame500]

Not that much. Its up to you really. whatever is cheaper and consider the games you get free with the 770. ( Blacklist and AC4 I think)

Thanks, the price between the two is about the same and while the 280x seems to be more powerful the free games offer is tempting.

Is there any chance of an AMD holiday bundle? I'm not going to buy/build until around Christmas and if AMD offers some games with their card I'll probably go with them.

 

[Felix Lighter]

Just checked this again, I noticed that the tearing was still there in the game after switching to 50fps, so I turned off the frame limiter altogether, and the tearing was completely gone. Strange. Is that known to happen with Nvidia Inspector? Are there other ways of limiting the framerate? I enabled it in the first place because the framerate in Max Payne 3 kept fluctuating above 60fps, whch made it look a bit less smooth than expected.

You need enable vsync to address tearing.

 

[Dick Justice]

You need enable vsync to address tearing.

Got it enabled in Nvidia control panel and in-game. It's all fine now. Before, for some reason the framerate was all over the place in MP3. Now it's mostly capped at 60, which is great.

 

[demosthenes]

PCPartPicker might be my new favorite site.

I game primarily in 1080p. I think this computer will keep me happy for quite a while. Anyonne see any need to change anything? I'll add more HD's later thus I'm getting a slightly larger PSU. The video card is actually $500 on newegg, but it hasn't udpated.

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($35.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($174.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($533.98 @ Newegg)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DSX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($47.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Antec Nine Hundred ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Cooler Master V700 700W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1549.86
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-31 20:22 EDT-0400)

 

[nbthedude]

Just droping in to say I picked up a Gigabyte 780 OC after the recent price drop/bundle and I am very impressed.

I have been using Radeons in recent years and my 7970 did me well for the last 18 months. But, damn Nvidia's UI is nice. I love the auto-update and auto-optimize options and everything is extremely slick. I will keep my options open in the future but on first blush, I can see why people have been "spoiled" by Nvidia's software.

 

[kittoo]

yep. huge mistake. might as well leave your house. you shamed your family.

Spoiler

Give context lol. What would classify as a 'mistake'?

Haha lol. I meant as in mistake in not waiting for Ti or 290.

You have done well Apprentice

You shall be known as Darth kittoo

The HOF force is with me now!

 

[Zomba13]

So my parts arrived and are now in my case. Old PSU was fine, old CPU watercooler was fine (though had to fiddle with some of the screw setting things). Everything went smoothly apart from the SSD coming with a dodgy cable causing it to randomly drop connection and not show up as a thing on boot. Just used a spare cable and it's fine now. RAM not here yet, should hopfully be here before the week ends. Currently using 4GB as the RAM only works in pairs on this board. Played a few things on ultra. was nice seeing the full PhysX effects in Borderlands 2 and playing BF3 on ultra. Did want to play some Batman but for some reason, even though the DL completed before I upgraded steam said nope and redownloaded it, even though the files were there. even tried making the folder for it and everything. Every other steam game that was downloaded works fine. Had to fuck about a bit with origin but got that working.

It's really nice to play games at max in 3D at 60fps. Also, Dolphin runs awesome now. Not figured how to get 3D running in the latest version. I remember it working in one of the old versions but I dunno if it still will.

EDIT: quick question. How do I go about removing the redundant windows files from my HDD? I've got a nice fresh windows 7 install on my SSD but now I no longer need the windows files on my (old) primary HDD. The space could go towards a game install or something. I don't wannt just delete the windows folder without checking just incase I need something from there.