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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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Czigga

Member
Hey guys I need some advice

current setup
Intel i7-860 @ 3.8 ghz
16mb ram @ 1866mhz
amd hd 7850 2gb

I'm considering upgrading my gpu but not sure if I'll get the added performance I want for the price I want to pay (no more than $300.)

do you guys think going from a 7850 to a 280x or similar is worth it? my goal is to buy myself another year or 2 of near max settings at 1080 before I do a full rebuild. the 7850 just can't compete any more.

I'm also a little worried about my psu, which is only 550 watts. I know with the 280x Id be near the threshold. really don't want to drop another hundo to get a 650-700 watter. think I'll be ok?

what would you guys do?
 

Newline

Member
Just installed my Gigabyte 770, new PSU and 212 Evo cooler. Was really painstaking, took around 6 hours total. Had to take my PC apart around three times. The CPU just kept on running hot, couldn't even get into BIOS. Alas third time was a charm and the damn thing started. Just installed my drivers now and everything seems ok. Tried playing witcher 2 and oh man it looks beautiful. Went from 15 fps medium settings on my 4870 to ultra everything. Feels good!

Installing BF4 now.

Will begin overclocking my i5 2500k tomorrow.
 
I'm pretty much 100% back up now after the clean install. It wasn't nearly as time consuming as I thought. The best part was that it kept my user directories wired up where I had them on my spinning drive.
 
Hey guys I need some advice

current setup
Intel i7-860 @ 3.8 ghz
16mb ram @ 1866mhz
amd hd 7850 2gb

I'm considering upgrading my gpu but not sure if I'll get the added performance I want for the price I want to pay (no more than $300.)

do you guys think going from a 7850 to a 280x or similar is worth it? my goal is to buy myself another year or 2 of near max settings at 1080 before I do a full rebuild. the 7850 just can't compete any more.

I'm also a little worried about my psu, which is only 550 watts. I know with the 280x Id be near the threshold. really don't want to drop another hundo to get a 650-700 watter. think I'll be ok?

what would you guys do?

Well it's definitely an improvement (see http://anandtech.com/bench/product/778?vs=768). As long as your PSU is a good brand 550W is more than enough.

What games do you play and what FPS do you get? If it were me I would probably hold out longer but I don't upgrade often.
 

JustinBB7

Member
Spend all night building my new computer. Tried booting it up and first I hear a really loud buzzing. The front fan of my case is doing this, I dunno if that's normal with this case but damn.

Anyway I get an error. Fatal error: 1 or more table pointers are invalid. Then I got a BSOD and it rebooted. I looked up on google what it is but need to use the windows install DVD to fix it. But the new motherboard I have doesn't support my DVD player... so what can I do now? I'm getting really frustrated here. I can enter the bios.

And it seems the people that have this error don't get the BSOD after it.

I tested without my new SSD drive and it still happens with my other HDD drives too.


Anybody?

I checked in the bios and it says my RAM is 1333mhz, but I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be 1600mhz. Could this be the problem and should I just change it in the bios?
 
Anybody?

I checked in the bios and it says my RAM is 1333mhz, but I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be 1600mhz. Could this be the problem and should I just change it in the bios?

Okay, I'm a bit confused here, but...

- buzzing could be a cable hitting a case fan
- what do you mean your motherboard doesn't support your dvd player? that sounds weird.
- did you do a fresh install?
- what are the exact components you are using?
 
I'm building a general purpose PC (word processing, web surfing, 1080p videos, no gaming) for my mom. I want this thing to boot fast and to just be fast all around so I've decided to go for a i7-4770 CPU but am unsure about the mobo and RAM. I've read a few benchmarks and was led to believe that 1866MHZ RAM performs noticeably better compared to 1600 but I have also read elsewhere that the difference in performance between the two is not worth the price. Does anyone know? Also what would be a good board for this CPU and RAM?
If you want it to be fast put an SSD in it. A 4770 is insane overkill for your mom's needs.
 

JustinBB7

Member
Okay, I'm a bit confused here, but...

- buzzing could be a cable hitting a case fan
- what do you mean your motherboard doesn't support your dvd player? that sounds weird.
- did you do a fresh install?
- what are the exact components you are using?

- checked for cable hitting fan but it's wired shut, so I dunno what's wrong there
- there is no IDE on my motherboard, but my dvd player is.
- I did a fresh install 2 days ago on my old computer, but new SSD, would another reinstall help perhaps? Though I'd have to make a bootable usb maybe since my DVD drive doesn't work.

Specs are:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Graphics Card: Geforce GTX 580
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Cooler Master Silent Pro M 1000W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
 

diaspora

Member
I'm building a general purpose PC (word processing, web surfing, 1080p videos, no gaming) for my mom. I want this thing to boot fast and to just be fast all around so I've decided to go for a i7-4770 CPU but am unsure about the mobo and RAM. I've read a few benchmarks and was led to believe that 1866MHZ RAM performs noticeably better compared to 1600 but I have also read elsewhere that the difference in performance between the two is not worth the price. Does anyone know? Also what would be a good board for this CPU and RAM?

What the what? Just build a small AMD A10-5800K micro-ATX PC with an SSD. 1866MHz RAM, and an i7 are useless...
 
Anybody?

I checked in the bios and it says my RAM is 1333mhz, but I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be 1600mhz. Could this be the problem and should I just change it in the bios?

RAM manufacturers will list the "extreme profile" of their RAM, but it will be set as 1333mhz when installed first. Go to the BIOS section concerning RAM and turn on the XMP or "Extreme Memory Profile". This should boost your RAM frequency to the advertised spec.

I'm building a general purpose PC (word processing, web surfing, 1080p videos, no gaming) for my mom. I want this thing to boot fast and to just be fast all around so I've decided to go for a i7-4770 CPU but am unsure about the mobo and RAM. I've read a few benchmarks and was led to believe that 1866MHZ RAM performs noticeably better compared to 1600 but I have also read elsewhere that the difference in performance between the two is not worth the price. Does anyone know? Also what would be a good board for this CPU and RAM?

No need for an i7 4770 (overkill), also you will see zero benefit from 1866 RAM over 1600 RAM for the uses you listed.
 

clem84

Gold Member
If you want it to be fast put an SSD in it. A 4770 is insane overkill for your mom's needs.

Yeah I've decided to go for an i5. Might still be a bit overkill but at least it'll be somewhat future proof. Also 4GB of 1600 memory will be enough for her needs. The SSD I've decided to get is the Samsung 840 EVO 120GB.

There's one thing I'm still not sure of. The board I've decided to get is the Gigabyte GA-Z87-d3hp. I've noticed from the pics that it has VGA out and HDMI out so it has some kind of integrated graphics chip. Since this PC won't be used for gaming, will the integrated graphics from the mobo suffice? Or do I still need to get separate (cheap) video card?
 
- checked for cable hitting fan but it's wired shut, so I dunno what's wrong there
- there is no IDE on my motherboard, but my dvd player is.
- I did a fresh install 2 days ago on my old computer, but new SSD, would another reinstall help perhaps? Though I'd have to make a bootable usb maybe since my DVD drive doesn't work.

Specs are:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Graphics Card: Geforce GTX 580
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Cooler Master Silent Pro M 1000W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply

Okay, if it were me I would definitely give it a fresh install with the SSD. Not sure about the buzzing, I'm not familiar with the case. Can you use a flashlight or something to peer in? Must be a way to access it, like when you want to clean it etc.

Regarding the ram, that shouldn't give you a BSOD. But you can set the memory settings in your BIOS, just check the timings/speed on the side of the sticks (just in case you were sent the wrong ones or something).

Yeah, make a bootable USB stick, there are instructions around for doing that if you google it. Where did you get that error by the way? Was it while Windows was trying to boot?
 
Can I expect to find 1440p monitors on Black Friday for cheap? Also, 1440p monitors can display 1080p images without destroying the IQ right? Idk how well my rig will run at 1440p in the future but I can downsample to 1440p just fine atm.

Oh also, how do I prevent dust build up? I spray some compressed air in and wipe the fans about every 2 weeks but it still gets pretty dusty.
 

JustinBB7

Member
Okay, if it were me I would definitely give it a fresh install with the SSD. Not sure about the buzzing, I'm not familiar with the case. Can you use a flashlight or something to peer in? Must be a way to access it, like when you want to clean it etc.

Regarding the ram, that shouldn't give you a BSOD. But you can set the memory settings in your BIOS, just check the timings/speed on the side of the sticks (just in case you were sent the wrong ones or something).

Yeah, make a bootable USB stick, there are instructions around for doing that if you google it. Where did you get that error by the way? Was it while Windows was trying to boot?

I'll try a fresh install with a bootable usb then.

I'll figure out the ram later, rather have my computer working first.

The error happens after bios startup, then I can press any key to boot anyway, and then I BSOD instantly while loading windows.
 

diaspora

Member
Yeah I've decided to go for an i5. Might still be a bit overkill but at least it'll be somewhat future proof. Also 4GB of 1600 memory will be enough for her needs. The SSD I've decided to get is the Samsung 840 EVO 120GB.

There's one thing I'm still not sure of. The board I've decided to get is the Gigabyte GA-Z87-d3hp. I've noticed from the pics that it has VGA out and HDMI out so it has some kind of integrated graphics chip. Since this PC won't be used for gaming, will the integrated graphics from the mobo suffice? Or do I still need to get separate (cheap) video card?

If there's not really much gaming involved, if any, a discrete card wouldn't add much. A 7750 for HDMI would be the highest I'd go.
 
I'll try a fresh install with a bootable usb then.

I'll figure out the ram later, rather have my computer working first.

The error happens after bios startup, then I can press any key to boot anyway, and then I BSOD instantly while loading windows.

Not sure if you're using a secondary hard drive, but some problems can be fixed by unplugging extra HDDs while you're installing Windows to the primary one. Just a thought. Let us know how it goes.
 

Darklord

Banned
Didn't get much feedback last time I posted it but what do you think of this PC?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php...=25221&zenid=14ff30b7d08a181ebd238eb697f4cdef

CPU: Intel Core i5 4670K
CPU Cooling: NZXT Respire T40 CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASUS Z87M-PLUS Motherboard
Graphics: ASUS GeForce GTX 770 DirectCU II OC 2GB
Memory: G.Skill Sniper F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3
Solid State Drive: Samsung 840 EVO Series 120GB SSD
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 2TB ST2000DM001
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-220LBKS Black 24x DVDRW Drive
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini
Power Supply: Seasonic G-650 80Plus Gold 650W (Limited time upgrade to Seasonic X-650 80Plus Gold 650W V3)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1

With the 770 price drop I was finally going to get a new PC. I'm using a i7 920, 6gb ram, GTX 570 1GB now. I know GeForce are releasing new 780's but they're so expensive I don't want to pay $700 for just the card.
 

JustinBB7

Member
Not sure if you're using a secondary hard drive, but some problems can be fixed by unplugging extra HDDs while you're installing Windows to the primary one. Just a thought. Let us know how it goes.

I tried using just the SSD and using my old HDD, both had same error and BSOD afterwards. I'll unplug all the other ones when I do the fresh install to be sure.
 

AcridMeat

Banned
Hm there's a $20 card with the 4770k on newegg, thinking of using that towards the motherboard and going ahead with it. :D

edit: Ah shit it's a physical card?!

edit 2: Oh I see, I'd get it 4 days later...

edit 3: Ordered my mobo and cpu! Woooo. All that's left is a deal on ram, an 840 pro ssd, and maybe a blu ray drive.
 
Didn't get much feedback last time I posted it but what do you think of this PC?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php...=25221&zenid=14ff30b7d08a181ebd238eb697f4cdef

CPU: Intel Core i5 4670K
CPU Cooling: NZXT Respire T40 CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASUS Z87M-PLUS Motherboard
Graphics: ASUS GeForce GTX 770 DirectCU II OC 2GB
Memory: G.Skill Sniper F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3
Solid State Drive: Samsung 840 EVO Series 120GB SSD
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 2TB ST2000DM001
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-220LBKS Black 24x DVDRW Drive
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini
Power Supply: Seasonic G-650 80Plus Gold 650W (Limited time upgrade to Seasonic X-650 80Plus Gold 650W V3)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1

With the 770 price drop I was finally going to get a new PC. I'm using a i7 920, 6gb ram, GTX 570 1GB now. I know GeForce are releasing new 780's but they're so expensive I don't want to pay $700 for just the card.

I do not know anything about the CPU cooler, so maybe take the advice of that other guy. The rest looks good, the old 780s are also good if you are interested in that.

Personally I would say to take Windows 8 over Windows 7, but not everybody would agree.
 
Didn't get much feedback last time I posted it but what do you think of this PC?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php...=25221&zenid=14ff30b7d08a181ebd238eb697f4cdef

CPU: Intel Core i5 4670K
CPU Cooling: NZXT Respire T40 CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASUS Z87M-PLUS Motherboard
Graphics: ASUS GeForce GTX 770 DirectCU II OC 2GB
Memory: G.Skill Sniper F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3
Solid State Drive: Samsung 840 EVO Series 120GB SSD
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 2TB ST2000DM001
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-220LBKS Black 24x DVDRW Drive
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini
Power Supply: Seasonic G-650 80Plus Gold 650W (Limited time upgrade to Seasonic X-650 80Plus Gold 650W V3)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1

With the 770 price drop I was finally going to get a new PC. I'm using a i7 920, 6gb ram, GTX 570 1GB now. I know GeForce are releasing new 780's but they're so expensive I don't want to pay $700 for just the card.
I'm not sure about the prices, but do you know how to build your own PC?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I checked real quick and the QNIX is the one I heard people were picking up for 1440p recently.
well guys, I'm thinking in "upgrading" my pc rig. .

cpu Intel 2500k @ 4,2Ghz
4GB (2x2GB) ram DDR3 1600
Noctua NH-U12P
AMD ATI 7950 (OC'ed @ 1150/1500)
Asrock Z60 Pro3
Sandisk Extreme 256GB SDD

I know an upgrade isn't much neccessary, but I'm thinking at least in upgrading the ram memory by replacing the current modules for 8gb (2x4gb) DDR3 2133, and replacing my old Noctua cooler for a better one, but I'm still not sure about the right cooler, is the Corsair H80i worth it? any suggestion to keep my 2500k @ 4,2Ghz while running cool?
I'd stick with a RAM upgrade and GPU upgrade.
Spend all night building my new computer. Tried booting it up and first I hear a really loud buzzing. The front fan of my case is doing this, I dunno if that's normal with this case but damn.

Anyway I get an error. Fatal error: 1 or more table pointers are invalid. Then I got a BSOD and it rebooted. I looked up on google what it is but need to use the windows install DVD to fix it. But the new motherboard I have doesn't support my DVD player... so what can I do now? I'm getting really frustrated here. I can enter the bios.

And it seems the people that have this error don't get the BSOD after it.

I tested without my new SSD drive and it still happens with my other HDD drives too.
Get a SATA DVD burner or a USB external one. Check to make sure the fan is screwed tightly into the front of the case and the bezel is attached all the way
I'm building a general purpose PC (word processing, web surfing, 1080p videos, no gaming) for my mom. I want this thing to boot fast and to just be fast all around so I've decided to go for a i7-4770 CPU but am unsure about the mobo and RAM. I've read a few benchmarks and was led to believe that 1866MHZ RAM performs noticeably better compared to 1600 but I have also read elsewhere that the difference in performance between the two is not worth the price. Does anyone know? Also what would be a good board for this CPU and RAM?
Extreme overkill. Get an i3 or a cheap AMD setup. What you want is an SSD and 8GB of RAM for general performance. Onboard graphics is now on the CPU from both companies and is more than enough (~$40 GPU now).
Hey guys I need some advice

current setup
Intel i7-860 @ 3.8 ghz
16mb ram @ 1866mhz
amd hd 7850 2gb

I'm considering upgrading my gpu but not sure if I'll get the added performance I want for the price I want to pay (no more than $300.)

do you guys think going from a 7850 to a 280x or similar is worth it? my goal is to buy myself another year or 2 of near max settings at 1080 before I do a full rebuild. the 7850 just can't compete any more.

I'm also a little worried about my psu, which is only 550 watts. I know with the 280x Id be near the threshold. really don't want to drop another hundo to get a 650-700 watter. think I'll be ok?

what would you guys do?
PSU is fine. I'd wait another week for the 290 / 780Ti launch and pickup a used card if you want value, otherwise see where evverything falls into place.
 
Question. I had to RMA my SSD so in the meantime I installed windows to hdd until I get a replacement. Is there an easy way to migrate my games over once I reinstall windows on ssd? don't want to download all my games again! lol

If you are talking about steam games, I think that if you copy the Steam folder to an external HDD and place them later on and Steam does not redownload everything.

https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=7418-YUBN-8129

I do not know if you want your save files too.

This shit, right here boys: http://www.gamesave-manager.com/
 

Newline

Member
So I just overclocked for the first time in my life. Heres what I got:

i5 2500k
Coolermaster 212 Evo

1.45v
4.7 ghz
66-69 degrees Celsius at 100% load

What do you guys think of those values? Do they seem ok? Anything I should be concerned about? I'm really happy with the 4.7ghz. Going from 3.3ghz stock clock to 4.7ghz is a ridiculous boost. Can't believe I was at stock for over a year!
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
So I just overclocked for the first time in my life. Heres what I got:

i5 2500k
Coolermaster 212 Evo

1.45v
4.7 ghz
66-69 degrees Celsius at 100% load

What do you guys think of those values? Do they seem ok? Anything I should be concerned about? I'm really happy with the 4.7ghz. Going from 3.3ghz stock clock to 4.7ghz is a ridiculous boost. Can't believe I was at stock for over a year!
I'd test to see what max clock you get at 1.35V
1.45V is too high and 70C load doesn't sound right, what are you using to test load?
 

Newline

Member
I'd test to see what max clock you get at 1.35V
1.45V is too high and 70C load doesn't sound right, what are you using to test load?

I'm using prime95, left it to run at 100% load for an hour 70C was the peak temp. I was told that 1.45v is safe to run on an air cooler, 212 evo namely.
 

Mohasus

Member
Is there something special to use a dedicated GPU for Physx?

I have a GTX660 in my PC right now, and a spare GTX560 that is doing nothing inside of a box. So I thought about putting it together to play Batman Arkham Origins. My mobo is an Asrock Z77 Pro4, it supports Crossfire, but not SLI.
 

kharma45

Member
Is there something special to use a dedicated GPU for Physx?

I have a GTX660 in my PC right now, and a spare GTX560 that is doing nothing inside of a box. So I thought about putting it together to play Batman Arkham Origins. My mobo is an Asrock Z77 Pro4, it supports Crossfire, but not SLI.

Even if your mobo could do it I wouldnn't bother, your 660 is fine. It's not worth the increase heat, noise and power consumption.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I'm using prime95, left it to run at 100% load for an hour 70C was the peak temp. I was told that 1.45v is safe to run on an air cooler, 212 evo namely.
I'd aim to keep it below 1.4V max (You should come relatively close to your 1.45V clock, probably 4.5Ghz, maybe 4.6), you are on SB instead of Ivy, but still 1.45V for 24/7 seems a bit high.
The main thing iirc was to make sure one of the other voltages didn't go above 1.1V, but that was a long time ago when I was reading that stuff.

Are you running Blend? Try Small FFT and see how your temps are different.
well, I'm waiting for 290x to drop, so I guess I'll bite early next year
It'll be a bit before the 290/290X and good non reference models come out, so that's a fine choice.
 

Newline

Member
I'd aim to keep it below 1.4V max (You should come relatively close to your 1.45V clock, probably 4.5Ghz, maybe 4.6), you are on SB instead of Ivy, but still 1.45V for 24/7 seems a bit high.
The main thing iirc was to make sure one of the other voltages didn't go above 1.1V, but that was a long time ago when I was reading that stuff.

Are you running Blend? Try Small FFT and see how your temps are different.

It'll be a bit before the 290/290X and good non reference models come out, so that's a fine choice.

Yeah I was running blend. Tried Small FFT and I was getting 83C at 4.7ghz and 1.45v.

Clocked it down to 1.4v / 4.6ghz and getting 74C max temp on Small FFT. Happy with that clock.
 

JustinBB7

Member
Alright I'm on my own computer now. Doing a fresh Windows 7 install worked and no more crashing during boot. Hopefully no more crashing at all with my new setup.

Btw my SSD only scores a 5.9 in the Windows Index Rating thing. How is it even possible to get higher than that? My old hard drives all got 5.9 as well.
 
Alright I'm on my own computer now. Doing a fresh Windows 7 install worked and no more crashing during boot. Hopefully no more crashing at all with my new setup.

Btw my SSD only scores a 5.9 in the Windows Index Rating thing. How is it even possible to get higher than that? My old hard drives all got 5.9 as well.

Is it connected to a SATA3 port (not SATA2)?
 

Husker86

Member
Ok so I have an i5 2500K stock cooler. Decided to mess with OC a bit and jumped up to 4GHz. Ran Prime95 for a while and max temps on cores were 77,78,79,80. Every time it approached those numbers again temps went down about 5 degrees and then back up, etc.

Now, Battlefield 4 never gets the temps to Prime95 levels and that is about the most demanding thing I do with my PC. That said, am I safe with these temps? Kinda nice to just sit at the 4GHz milestone and would rather not upgrade cooler if it isn't necessary.

Thanks!
 

adg1034

Member
Hay PC-GAF what do you think of this card?

is it a steal at this price?
ZOTAC GTX 780 3GB AMP! Edition

That amounts to ~$460 USD, so yeah, that's phenomenal. If the benchmarks look right, go for it! EDIT: Oops, that's the pre-VAT price. Post-VAT, though, that's still the lowest price I can find on PCPartPicker. Don't let us stop you!

GPU question for you all, though:

I'm currently running a 4.7GHz 2500k/Radeon 6950 at 2560x1440. I've been in the market for a new GPU for a while, but I jumped the gun and listed my card on Amazon earlier than I should have. Long story short, I have to ship it out to its new owner by Monday.

So, my quandary: do I buy a GTX 780 now (EVGA Superclocked, so it's plenty fast), or wait out the non-reference 290X cards? The 290X's ceiling seems plenty high provided it gets the right kind of cooling (especially since the current thermal-limited numbers already beat the 780), so I don't want to sacrifice that just for $50 less, but I don't necessarily want to be without a GPU for a month either, so...
 

Jessicat

Member
Excellent Build in the OP with a 7950 3GB or 760 2GB. Take a look at the cases in the OP and see what you like.
If the $1000 is a hard limit, drop the mobo down a model and use the stock heatsink for now, but I'd try to keep the GPU as the above.
Uhm. I'm sort of a newb to this stuff so I'm kind of worried about mix-and-matching parts (especially after my bro had a mismatched graphics card on his self-built comp). Not sure if the same price points for the items in the OP are the same for me, I'm in Canada (where everything is more expensive, or if you try to buy cheap online you get hit by customs fees, whoo :/) But anyways yea, if I can get everything I need from the fewest places possible (unless free shipping) for around $1k that would be awesome.
 
Uhm. I'm sort of a newb to this stuff so I'm kind of worried about mix-and-matching parts (especially after my bro had a mismatched graphics card on his self-built comp). Not sure if the same price points for the items in the OP are the same for me, I'm in Canada (where everything is more expensive, or if you try to buy cheap online you get hit by customs fees, whoo :/) But anyways yea, if I can get everything I need from the fewest places possible (unless free shipping) for around $1k that would be awesome.

There is a Canadian PC Parts Picker that draws prices from sources like newegg.ca.

http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/

You can pricematch the whole kit on NCIX as well if you want.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Yeah I was running blend. Tried Small FFT and I was getting 83C at 4.7ghz and 1.45v.

Clocked it down to 1.4v / 4.6ghz and getting 74C max temp on Small FFT. Happy with that clock.
Sounds solid.
Ok so I have an i5 2500K stock cooler. Decided to mess with OC a bit and jumped up to 4GHz. Ran Prime95 for a while and max temps on cores were 77,78,79,80. Every time it approached those numbers again temps went down about 5 degrees and then back up, etc.

Now, Battlefield 4 never gets the temps to Prime95 levels and that is about the most demanding thing I do with my PC. That said, am I safe with these temps? Kinda nice to just sit at the 4GHz milestone and would rather not upgrade cooler if it isn't necessary.

Thanks!
That sounds alright, you might want to try lowering your voltage.
Alright I'm on my own computer now. Doing a fresh Windows 7 install worked and no more crashing during boot. Hopefully no more crashing at all with my new setup.

Btw my SSD only scores a 5.9 in the Windows Index Rating thing. How is it even possible to get higher than that? My old hard drives all got 5.9 as well.
WIR is dumb
Uhm. I'm sort of a newb to this stuff so I'm kind of worried about mix-and-matching parts (especially after my bro had a mismatched graphics card on his self-built comp). Not sure if the same price points for the items in the OP are the same for me, I'm in Canada (where everything is more expensive, or if you try to buy cheap online you get hit by customs fees, whoo :/) But anyways yea, if I can get everything I need from the fewest places possible (unless free shipping) for around $1k that would be awesome.
Just buy everything from NCIX (They also do price matching), if something isnt on there post back and someone will suggest a replacement.
 

maneil99

Member
That amounts to ~$460 USD, so yeah, that's phenomenal. If the benchmarks look right, go for it! EDIT: Oops, that's the pre-VAT price. Post-VAT, though, that's still the lowest price I can find on PCPartPicker. Don't let us stop you!

GPU question for you all, though:

I'm currently running a 4.7GHz 2500k/Radeon 6950 at 2560x1440. I've been in the market for a new GPU for a while, but I jumped the gun and listed my card on Amazon earlier than I should have. Long story short, I have to ship it out to its new owner by Monday.

So, my quandary: do I buy a GTX 780 now (EVGA Superclocked, so it's plenty fast), or wait out the non-reference 290X cards? The 290X's ceiling seems plenty high provided it gets the right kind of cooling (especially since the current thermal-limited numbers already beat the 780), so I don't want to sacrifice that just for $50 less, but I don't necessarily want to be without a GPU for a month either, so...
780 Classified or any overclocked 780 should beat a 290x. We have no idea about how much better the new coolers will be. Keep in mind they may go out of stock quick.

Looks for the EVGA ACX Superclocked 780
Evga Classified
Msi lightning
 

Stop It

Perfectly able to grasp the inherent value of the fishing game.
I'd aim to keep it below 1.4V max (You should come relatively close to your 1.45V clock, probably 4.5Ghz, maybe 4.6), you are on SB instead of Ivy, but still 1.45V for 24/7 seems a bit high.
The main thing iirc was to make sure one of the other voltages didn't go above 1.1V, but that was a long time ago when I was reading that stuff.

Are you running Blend? Try Small FFT and see how your temps are different.

It'll be a bit before the 290/290X and good non reference models come out, so that's a fine choice.

Ah, I was always paranoid about getting my vcore a bit too high but mine is set to 1.35v (In the UEFI 1.38v on load) at 4.6Ghz using my i5 2500K and using a Thermalright 140mm True Spirit.

I have added a 2nd fan to the thing in a push/pull and a quick 30min Prime 95 run using Small FFT had a peak of 65 degrees. I honestly thought that was a little high if I'm honest. I'm happy with 4.6Ghz anyway but may try to see just how fast this old dog (I bought this 1 week after SB came out) can still go.

Edit: On the GPU front I have 2 Radeon 7850's in Crossfire but now want to see what the R9 290 is like. If it's not as good for performance/£ as I'd hoped I think I will wait for Maxwell.
 

maneil99

Member
Ah, I was always paranoid about getting my vcore a bit too high but mine is set to 1.35v (In the UEFI 1.38v on load) at 4.6Ghz using my i5 2500K and using a Thermalright 140mm True Spirit.

I have added a 2nd fan to the thing in a push/pull and a quick 30min Prime 95 run using Small FFT had a peak of 65 degrees. I honestly thought that was a little high if I'm honest. I'm happy with 4.6Ghz anyway but may try to see just how fast this old dog (I bought this 1 week after SB came out) can still go.

Edit: On the GPU front I have 2 Radeon 7850's in Crossfire but now want to see what the R9 290 is like. If it's not as good for performance/£ as I'd hoped I think I will wait for Maxwell.
It will be a downgrade aside from cfx issues if you have any. Wait for max
 
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