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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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C

CreepingFear

Member
Hazaro said:
Thats solid.
New GPU is nice, but so are new titles. IMO the launch lineup for both consoles isn't worth buying Day 1 and I've played both consoles a few times already.
Click to expand...

There isn't a single launch title that I'm interested in that I wouldn't play on the PC first. Titanfall, I'll probably get the PC version as well. The thing that drives me crazy is all the exclusives that I missed out on both consoles. I had a 360, but I sold it for my WOW addiction at a time when I had no job. So buying the consoles would only be an investment in future exclusive titles. They'd probably collect dust for months.
 
P

pa22word

Member
Does the "target framerate" slider in EVGA precision act as a framerate lock? Talking about this:

e9608d845052964db2c35b8bb82f94eb.png
 
S

Stop It

Perfectly able to grasp the inherent value of the fishing game.
Hazaro said:
Thats solid.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

The 2500K was my first foray into higher end CPU's after using cheaper ones until then. The thing has had 2 different coolers on it and I have changed motherboards too as my first one died, but appears to do well up to around 4.6Ghz. Above that brings the requirement for a much higher vcore and still is unstable.

Anyway, must try EVGA precision as RadeonPro can use dynamic Vsync but the program isn't working too well with the latest beta drivers and isn't hooking into games for me recently so I need something else to keep my FPS to a stable level.
 
R

Racer1977

Member
Ok, not a gaming PC, but can anyone recommend some online UK stores to buy a basic PC for media, browsing etc.

My laptop crapped out the other week, but I'm looking to replace it with a desktop/mini PC, whatever offers the best bang for buck.
 
K

kharma45

Member
A Sentient Keyboard said:
I'm planning to buy a 280X in the next week or two, should I hold off? How likely are these rumours, and how long would I have to wait to get the updated version?
Click to expand...

It's a very... rumoury rumour.

Racer1977 said:
Ok, not a gaming PC, but can anyone recommend some online UK stores to buy a basic PC for media, browsing etc.

My laptop crapped out the other week, but I'm looking to replace it with a desktop/mini PC, whatever offers the best bang for buck.
Click to expand...

So it's just listening to music, watching films and browsing then? No gaming?

Also, do you need much storage space?
 
B

basic_element

Member
kennah said:
No such thing. Gpu limited games will always take advantage of a better gpu. Cpu limited games will always take advantage of a better cpu.

Get whatever fits your budget.

As for psu look for an xfx or seasonic on sale.

Telling us what country you are in will help someone find a specific deal for you.
Click to expand...

I'm in the USA (California). Places like TigerDirect would be beneficial since there is no tax for me. I don't really have a budget but I would like to have graphics similar to next gen consoles if possible but not have to pay $400+. Thanks.

opticalmace said:
Make sure you check how big a video card your case can accomodate before you buy anything, BTW.
Click to expand...

This is the model I have:
HP P7-1235
 
Z

Zuhzuhzombie!!

Member
I have a GTX570. BF4 doesn't run well unless everything is on low. 8 gigs of RAM, first gen i5 CPU.

Figured I needed to upgrade my graphics card. If you agree, would you kindly recommend a good card for 200 - 250 dollars please? I could go higher if it's really worth it.
 
Anton668

Anton668

Member
basic_element said:
I'm in the USA (California). Places like TigerDirect would be beneficial since there is no tax for me. I don't really have a budget but I would like to have graphics similar to next gen consoles if possible but not have to pay $400+. Thanks.
Click to expand...

if at all possible avoid tiger direct like the plauge. is there nowhere else you can benefit from a lack of taxes?
 
A

A Sentient Keyboard

Member
On the topic of cases, how much of a problem is dust buildup?

I'm stuck between two cases, the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 and the Corsair 500R. The 500R is a little cooler and quieter, and €15 more expensive, but most importantly looks rad. However, it has a 200mm side fan with no dust filter, so it will probably collect dust faster than the R2.

I vacuum my office regularly and have a cat, will dust be a problem with the 500R? I'll probably clean my PC every 1-3 months or so.
 
Anton668

Anton668

Member
A Sentient Keyboard said:
On the topic of cases, how much of a problem is dust buildup?

I'm stuck between two cases, the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 and the Corsair 500R. The 500R is a little cooler and quieter, and €15 more expensive, but most importantly looks rad. However, it's 200mm side fan has no dust filter, meaning it will probably collect dust faster than the R2.

I vaccuum my office regularly and have a cat, will dust be a problem with the 500R? I rarely clean my old PC, but I'm willing to clean my new one every 1-2 months.
Click to expand...

your environment will be the biggest factor with dust(me I have to clean once a week). you can make sure you have a positive airflow to help reduce the dust buildup.

Positive - there is more fresh air coming into the case than there is hot air exiting the case. Basically, the CFM from intake fans exceeds the CFM from exhaust fans.

Negative - there is more air exiting the case via exhaust fans than fresh air entering the case via intake fans and vents. The CFM for exhaust fans exceeds the CFM from intake fans.
Click to expand...
 
B

basic_element

Member
Anton668 said:
if at all possible avoid tiger direct like the plauge. is there nowhere else you can benefit from a lack of taxes?
Click to expand...

Not sure. Amazon charges tax now and NewEgg is in CA so they have always charged tax here. Paying tax is not a deal breaker as long as it's a good deal.

What's wrong with tiger direct?
 
K

kennah

Member
UUUUGH. Missed out on a 2550K, GA-Z68, 8gig Kingston 1600 RAM for $180 by about 15 minutes. (trying to source an upgrade for a friend). Heck of a deal, someone got real lucky.
 
D

Dawg

Member
I think I'll just go with the Corsair K65 as a keyboard.

Don't really like the Spawn though... and I've read about tracking issues with the M65 :/
 
S

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Alright, I'm at my wit's end, and I swear I'm about to lose it. Hopefully someone can help me out with this; as I Googling isn't helping and I think it's because I can't think of a good way to word my search.

Rewind 12 months. I had crappy AT&T DSL with a 2Wire modem. While slow, it worked fine and was fairly reliable. Suddenly though, I started getting regular disconnects. They'd last a couple minutes, and would happen a few times an hour for a few hours at a time... and then everything would be fine for a week. Then again, it would happen for half a day. Then be fine for two weeks.

Finally, I realized when my sister used her laptop on our WiFi - it caused issues and would make the modem lose its connection (the 2Wire modem/router is an all-in-one unit). I don't know why... but my laptop or my wireless systems or our iPads don't cause issues. Just her single, boring, circa 2008 HP laptop.

We eventually got AT&T U-Verse... a little better... along with a new modem/router. And for a while, all was fine. She could use her laptop and there were no issues.

But this weekend, sure enough, after some frustration, I realized when she used the internet on her laptop - all of our other wireless items (iPad, laptop, games) all of a sudden had abysmally slow internet. It doesn't disconnect anymore; but it's just painfully slow. If she stops using her laptop, about 45 minutes later, everything will be fine and back up to speed.

This is happening regularly enough that I'm 99% sure they're related. I can trigger the issue if I want to - and have a couple times to confirm my suspicion.

So, any ideas on what I need to do? So far I've tried resetting the modem, I've tried changing the frequency number, I've fiddled with her WiFi on her laptop but can't figure out what it is.
 
Anton668

Anton668

Member
basic_element said:
Not sure. Amazon charges tax now and NewEgg is in CA so they have always charged tax here. Paying tax is not a deal breaker as long as it's a good deal.

What's wrong with tiger direct?
Click to expand...

tween here and other places I keep hearing horror stories of shady business practices and terrible/non existent customer service
 
D

Dawg

Member
Skel1ingt0n said:
Alright, I'm at my wit's end, and I swear I'm about to lose it. Hopefully someone can help me out with this; as I Googling isn't helping and I think it's because I can't think of a good way to word my search.

Rewind 12 months. I had crappy AT&T DSL with a 2Wire modem. While slow, it worked fine and was fairly reliable. Suddenly though, I started getting regular disconnects. They'd last a couple minutes, and would happen a few times an hour for a few hours at a time... and then everything would be fine for a week. Then again, it would happen for half a day. Then be fine for two weeks.

Finally, I realized when my sister used her laptop on our WiFi - it caused issues and would make the modem lose its connection (the 2Wire modem/router is an all-in-one unit). I don't know why... but my laptop or my wireless systems or our iPads don't cause issues. Just her single, boring, circa 2008 HP laptop.

We eventually got AT&T U-Verse... a little better... along with a new modem/router. And for a while, all was fine. She could use her laptop and there were no issues.

But this weekend, sure enough, after some frustration, I realized when she used the internet on her laptop - all of our other wireless items (iPad, laptop, games) all of a sudden had abysmally slow internet. It doesn't disconnect anymore; but it's just painfully slow. If she stops using her laptop, about 45 minutes later, everything will be fine and back up to speed.

This is happening regularly enough that I'm 99% sure they're related. I can trigger the issue if I want to - and have a couple times to confirm my suspicion.

So, any ideas on what I need to do? So far I've tried resetting the modem, I've tried changing the frequency number, I've fiddled with her WiFi on her laptop but can't figure out what it is.
Click to expand...

Your story sounds very similar to mine. My mother bought a new laptop in our previous house and everytime she used the internet on it, every device in the house had super slow internet. Including her laptop. Problem went away if she turned it off.

I never did find the true reason, but we moved to a new place and her laptop is still slow. It changes between OK internet, slow loading of sites and moments where you get a lot of "the site cannot be loaded". This usually happens when you open a new site because browsing a site which is already open at that point still works. Very strange. Especially because it's only her laptop now. Rest is OK.

Remember to check if she doesn't have any torrent program running in the background btw. My little brother once caused me headached for months because he didn't delete old torrents.

At one point, our internet got shutdown because we had uploaded 300GB in less than a month. That's when I finally figured it out.
 
S

Sora2k7

Member
Skel1ingt0n said:
Alright, I'm at my wit's end, and I swear I'm about to lose it. Hopefully someone can help me out with this; as I Googling isn't helping and I think it's because I can't think of a good way to word my search.

Rewind 12 months. I had crappy AT&T DSL with a 2Wire modem. While slow, it worked fine and was fairly reliable. Suddenly though, I started getting regular disconnects. They'd last a couple minutes, and would happen a few times an hour for a few hours at a time... and then everything would be fine for a week. Then again, it would happen for half a day. Then be fine for two weeks.

Finally, I realized when my sister used her laptop on our WiFi - it caused issues and would make the modem lose its connection (the 2Wire modem/router is an all-in-one unit). I don't know why... but my laptop or my wireless systems or our iPads don't cause issues. Just her single, boring, circa 2008 HP laptop.

We eventually got AT&T U-Verse... a little better... along with a new modem/router. And for a while, all was fine. She could use her laptop and there were no issues.

But this weekend, sure enough, after some frustration, I realized when she used the internet on her laptop - all of our other wireless items (iPad, laptop, games) all of a sudden had abysmally slow internet. It doesn't disconnect anymore; but it's just painfully slow. If she stops using her laptop, about 45 minutes later, everything will be fine and back up to speed.

This is happening regularly enough that I'm 99% sure they're related. I can trigger the issue if I want to - and have a couple times to confirm my suspicion.

So, any ideas on what I need to do? So far I've tried resetting the modem, I've tried changing the frequency number, I've fiddled with her WiFi on her laptop but can't figure out what it is.
Click to expand...

try connecting the laptop thru ethernet and disable wifi.

If that solves the problem remove then reinstall the wifi driver.

If using ethernet still makes the connection slow than I would suggest a format (may be a virus or a problem with the OS)
 
C

Czigga

Member
Reckoner said:
On the Fractal R4, is there a way to supress the loudness of the side fan?
Click to expand...

You can buy specially quiet fans, get a fan with a speed switch and keep it at medium or slow speed, get a "quiet" mounting set, which is basically ribbed rubber plugs in place of normal screws, which can help suppress noise. Finally you can get little rubber gaskets that go along the edge of your fan between the fan and your case which can help.

This link has a bunch of the above

http://www.quietpcusa.com/Anti-Vibr...=IsFeatured DESC, OrderBy ASC, Name ASC&ps=24
 
R

Reckoner

Member
Czigga said:
You can buy specially quiet fans, get a fan with a speed switch and keep it at medium or slow speed, get a "quiet" mounting set, which is basically ribbed rubber plugs in place of normal screws, which can help suppress noise. Finally you can get little rubber gaskets that go along the edge of your fan between the fan and your case which can help.

This link has a bunch of the above

http://www.quietpcusa.com/Anti-Vibr...=IsFeatured DESC, OrderBy ASC, Name ASC&ps=24
Click to expand...

I think the case came with some of those rubber gaskets. I'll check. Also, I think it would be wise to get a dust fan filter.

Just one more question: I'm thinking on adding one more extract fan on top. I suppose the hit on the PSU (550w) is minimal with fans, right?
 
M

misterF

Neo Member
Hi, I need a bit a help with my Gigabyte HD7850. While playing games my PC has been crashing regularly with the screen going black and the sound stuck on a loop. I figured it was a graphics card problem and found out that it was an issue that a lot of people ran into with this particular card. One of the proposed solution was underclocking the card as it was suggested that the power supply could be lacking. I tried doing that and haven't encountered a single crash since which surprised me as I went with a 750w PSU when I built the PC. Do you guys think I need a new PSU or is there any other way to fix this problem with my 7850 without having to underclock it?
 
M

MisterM

Member
misterF said:
Hi, I need a bit a help with my Gigabyte HD7850. While playing games my PC has been crashing regularly with the screen going black and the sound stuck on a loop. I figured it was a graphics card problem and found out that it was an issue that a lot of people ran into with this particular card. One of the proposed solution was underclocking the card as it was suggested that the power supply could be lacking. I tried doing that and haven't encountered a single crash since which surprised me as I went with a 750w PSU when I built the PC. Do you guys think I need a new PSU or is there any other way to fix this problem with my 7850 without having to underclock it?
Click to expand...

It doesn't have a boost feature, does it? I'm not sure if the 7850 does. I had to disable boost and manually clock my 7870XT as the clock rate fluctuated in games causing them to crash.

Also, what is the make/model of your PSU? Far more important than just it's wattage..

Edit - Just noticed...nice name :D
 
S

Sanjay

Member
CreepingFear said:
I stopped reading pretty much at quiet mode. Uber mode is the one to test against. I've been critical of the 290x because of the lack of third party coolers, heat, and power consumption, but that benchmark is unfair. Less than a week until the NDA is lifted with the more legitimate sites, hopefully.
Click to expand...

But we already know the benchmark difference between Uber and Quiet mode, not much 1/2 fps. So we already know that difference. If you keep that in mind, these GTX 780 Ti results are amazing if true.
 
C

CreepingFear

Member
Sanjay said:
But we already know the benchmark difference between Uber and Quiet mode, not much 1/2 fps. So we already know that difference. If you keep that in mind, these GTX 780 Ti results are amazing if true.
Click to expand...

I thought uber mode made a big difference. I still want to wait for the more well known sites. I'd buy a 6GB 780ti for $850 with a non-stock cooler.
 
M

Manik

Member
misterF said:
Hi, I need a bit a help with my Gigabyte HD7850. While playing games my PC has been crashing regularly with the screen going black and the sound stuck on a loop. I figured it was a graphics card problem and found out that it was an issue that a lot of people ran into with this particular card. One of the proposed solution was underclocking the card as it was suggested that the power supply could be lacking. I tried doing that and haven't encountered a single crash since which surprised me as I went with a 750w PSU when I built the PC. Do you guys think I need a new PSU or is there any other way to fix this problem with my 7850 without having to underclock it?
Click to expand...

I have the exact same problem, although mine is a GTX295. Sadly, the only way I have found around it (and I've tried everything, including replacing with the PSU) and the only thing that works is underclocking it.

The annoying thing is that everything works up until the in-game engine kicks in (no problems on menu screens / intro videos) but after that it'll pretty much instantly go to a black screen.
 
V

VisceralBowl

Member
I want some of you guys to check out this build that someone I know is getting.

Is there an Intel Processor/Mobo that can match what he got here for the price? Should he just stick with this?
 
A

Addnan

Member
VisceralBowl said:
I want some of you guys to check out this build that someone I know is getting.

Is there an Intel Processor/Mobo that can match what he got here for the price? Should he just stick with this?
Click to expand...

Intel, better. Seems to be slightly cheaper too.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($31.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi Z87W ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($85.00 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($88.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($42.92 @ B&H)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 300R Windowed ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($64.97 @ OutletPC)
Keyboard: V7 CK0A2-4N6P Wired Standard Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($11.05 @ Amazon)
Total: $1005.88
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-11-04 09:28 EST-0500)

You can make it cheaper by changing the RAM to ones you picked. I already had this in my pcpartpicker site.
 
J

JustinBB7

Member
JustinBB7 said:
My LG Flatron w2261v - pf monitor died. It powers on but then just goes off. Been having weird problems with it for a while now but now it's completely dead. Just instantly goes off.

Don't think I can fix that, any tips for a new monitor? The LG I have is 21.5 inches. Would 23 inches be better or is it not that noticeable?

I'm looking at the ASUS VE247H now.
Click to expand...

Anybody? I guess it doesn't really matter that much. But after my last one suddenly being dead I'm just double checking.

Hazaro said:
That sounds fine. You can contact whoever sold you the case or Fractal, you should be able to get a new fan replacement.
Click to expand...

I'll see if fractal can do anything, I doubt the place I bought it from online will have a spare one laying around haha.
 
K

kennah

Member
VisceralBowl said:
I want some of you guys to check out this build that someone I know is getting.

Is there an Intel Processor/Mobo that can match what he got here for the price? Should he just stick with this?
Click to expand...
Addnan has it covered but just to pipe in - there is a lot of unnecessary expense in your first build that would easily allow an intel processor for the same money. The thermal paste is unnecessary, there are better psus for cheaper and wifi is a waste of time and money on a desktop except in extreme situations.
 
V

VisceralBowl

Member
kennah said:
Addnan has it covered but just to pipe in - there is a lot of unnecessary expense in your first build that would easily allow an intel processor for the same money. The thermal paste is unnecessary, there are better psus for cheaper and wifi is a waste of time and money on a desktop except in extreme situations.
Click to expand...

This isn't my build. He said he has to have WiFi.

Addnan said:
Intel, better. Seems to be slightly cheaper too.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

You can make it cheaper by changing the RAM to ones you picked. I already had this in my pcpartpicker site.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll go off this.
 
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