"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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Motherboard, psu and video card all need to be replaced in that computer to do anything with it. K series processor with a non overclocking board? Pointless. 350W PSU? Nooooooo. 7750 won't run much at a good speed but I guess it would hold you over until you replace everything else.
 
kennah said:
Motherboard, psu and video card all need to be replaced in that computer to do anything with it. K series processor with a non overclocking board? Pointless. 350W PSU? Nooooooo. 7750 won't run much at a good speed but I guess it would hold you over until you replace everything else.
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Like I said. I just went on Newegg to look for a pre-built that could play what I thought would be most games. Sounds like he doesn't want to deal w/ replacing anything or building.
 
demosthenes said:
Like I said. I just went on Newegg to look for a pre-built that could play what I thought would be most games. Sounds like he doesn't want to deal w/ replacing anything or building.
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Yeah, no desire to do much of anything except plugging it in and pressing go. Gaming isn't a primary need for me, i just want to put the 200ish steam games I've gotten in bundles or sales to use if possible.
 
Question. I will be using the SSD as my boot drive for windows 8.1, but I plan on using this boot drive as storage/applications as well. This is the drive with all of my steam games installed so I was wondering what I can do to minimize the hassle. Can I just install the drive after windows 8.1 has been installed on the SSD and has been named the boot drive? Or do I need to format it to get rid of this copy of windows as well?
 
well exams are nearly over and so its finally time to start looking for a graphics card for my desktop. Will a gtx760 suffice to future proof me for the next-gen consoles?
 
kharma45 said:
FX 4xxx are pretty crap and poor value next to a FX 63xx. Are you sticking with the same mobo then? What do you have? Where are you buying from?
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I'm planning on sticking with the mainboard; it's a very cheap (I got it for veeeeery cheap) MSI 770 board with support up to 95W TDP FX chips, so I can go for a 4100-4300, 6100-6300 or 8100-8300. I have 8GB of G-Skill DDR3-1333 RAM if that matters. I want to get a new CPU that will be a substantial improvement while not breaking the bank and the 4100 kind of seemed to fit the bill? Yet looking at this, maybe I should just wait and upgrade to a 8300 or something when they are cut to about 50% what they cost now? I own a 7770 so I'm definitely going to be GPU-limited before I'm CPU-limited, right?

CPU_01.png
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Jordan said:
So, going to place my order late this week or early next week.

Is the jump between the 280X vs the 290 worth it for £80 and the temperature increase? If I was going to spend £340ish on a card, would you suggest going for nvidia?

Looking to play Battlefield 4, maybe CoD, looking forward to Watch Dogs and games that are fairly graphical intense.
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I don't suppose anybody has an answer for this do they?
 
My system is now four years old and still going ok, aside from some noise issues.
I was planning on doing a brand new build but due to budget constraints I am considering doing an upgrade.
I obviously want more power for gaming, but i also want the machine to be quieter. What would you guys recommend? I was thinking about just throwing in a 290 and use it in a build later

My system:

AMD 955 Phenom
4GB ram
GTX 560Ti
Gigabyte MA790Gp Motherboard
Seasonic M12 80plus 500Watt. PSU
 
Jordan said:
I don't suppose anybody has an answer for this do they?
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I upgraded from an heavily OCed HD7950 (~280x level performance) to a R9 290 and yeah, the difference is noticable, so I'd say it's worth it.

The only problem with these cards is that the stock cooler is pretty bad. So if you're not going to wait for non reference cooling solutions or install a different cooler yourself, then you won't really be able to OC it, since the thing runs damn hot already. However if you just stick to gaming at stock speeds then the noise level is still acceptable imo, but you will definitely hear it. Still it may be audible, but at least the sound the cooler makes isn't an annoying one like with many other gpu coolers over the years.
 
Great, thank you.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£165.59 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£23.98 @ Scan.co.uk)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£109.99 @ Novatech)
Memory: Avexir MPOWER Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£69.90 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (£72.50 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 290 4GB Video Card (£329.99 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (£73.86 @ Scan.co.uk)
Total: £845.81
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-11-08 08:54 GMT+0000)

This is close enough to what I am ordering - I am going for the MSI R9 290 from Overclockers. Just need to choose a case. Currently looking for a high airflow case just so that the GPU doesn't get TOO hot. I am happy to change the cooler when some are released.
 
CmdBash said:
I'll do some more research on it, but its a slippery slope to go down haha. I gotta get a ultrabook/laptop for uni next year as well and I don't have unlimited funds.
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Don't get a 770 over a 760. It's only 10% faster for $100 difference. Your best bet - find a used 670 for $200 or 680 for under $300 or save up longer and do a substantial upgrade.

(The 760 is a slightly slower 670 and the 770 is a 680 with a different sticker)

(I'm planning on rocking a 670 for the next 3-4 years, but I don't care about having everything at max)
 
Good lord, if you plan on eventually overclocking, and are going to be using one of the all in one water cooling solutions, take what reviews say about the pre-applied thermal compound with a huge grain of salt. While this was my first time using a water cooling setup, it wasn't my first time around the block in regards to building a PC. I ended up buying the Kraken x60, and my idle and load temps seemed ridiculously high, especially at idle (33C - 37C) when the room was at 20C. Prime 95 would raise them to 72C (on the hottest core). That did not seem right at all considering that's the temp you're supposed to see with this cooler with a good 500mhz - 700mhz OC.

I normally use Arctic Silver 5 on pretty much every heatsink, but I didn't bother this time because most reviews claimed that the compound with the Kraken was "good". Nuh-uh. After wiping that shit off and applying some to the heatsink and then wiping off the excess (enough to simply fill in the small gaps that you can't see) and applying it to the CPU, my temps dropped by 6C and will drop an additional 2-4C after it finally sets.

Also, for those considering a Kraken x60 (I'm assuming the x40 suffers the same problem), you might want to consider simply using the motherboard to control the fans. The buggy-as-shit software doesn't even show CPU temps on mine (it's simply blank), and only the coolant. It also controls fan speeds based off of coolant temps, not CPU temps, which is beyond stupid. Just use something like Speedfan, or if you're using an Asus board, the AI suite for custom fan profiles. It works much better. Although you might want to consider making the temp breakpoints 10C lower than you really want for fan speed, because the Asus software seems to be measuring the temp of the heatsink, not the actual cores (like RealTemp and Core Temp do).
 
kennah said:
Don't get a 770 over a 760. It's only 10% faster for $100 difference. Your best bet - find a used 670 for $200 or 680 for under $300 or save up longer and do a substantial upgrade.

(The 760 is a slightly slower 670 and the 770 is a 680 with a different sticker)

(I'm planning on rocking a 670 for the next 3-4 years, but I don't care about having everything at max)
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hmmm 770 is really only 10% different to 760?

ah forget 760 is actually pretty much a 670... fucking nvidia naming.




Still trying to ration out 780 vs 780 ti. Didn't expect the ti to have about 20% different in performance... hmmmm.... hmmmm...
 
chickdigger802 said:
hmmm 770 is really only 10% different to 760?

ah forget 760 is actually pretty much a 670... fucking nvidia naming.




Still trying to ration out 780 vs 780 ti. Didn't expect the ti to have about 20% different in performance... hmmmm.... hmmmm...
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780 overclocked will match a 780 ti at stock. A 780 Ti Overclocked will beat everything :P I'd get teh 780. Save the 150$ and wait till summer. I pretty sure Ti non reference are about a month out, or atleast thats what I read in a review. Maxwell is 1 quater ahead of schedule and should hit Q2. Even if you have no interest ( 50-100% performance gains, GM100 has 6000 Cuda cores and 2.5x hypothetical performance of a Titan/Ti ) people will be selling their 780s and you can snatch another for the cheap
 
maneil99 said:
780 overclocked will match a 780 ti at stock. A 780 Ti Overclocked will beat everything :P I'd get teh 780. Save the 150$ and wait till summer. I pretty sure Ti non reference are about a month out, or atleast thats what I read in a review. Maxwell is 1 quater ahead of schedule and should hit Q2. Even if you have no interest ( 50-100% performance gains, GM100 has 6000 Cuda cores and 2.5x hypothetical performance of a Titan/Ti ) people will be selling their 780s and you can snatch another for the cheap
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yeah, its just that cursed feeling of... i'm already spending $500, what does an extra $200 matter ;)

And i was originally planning on getting 780 at the old price too.... hmmmmmm....

Good point of getting another 780 next year though... i'm betting 780 sli will easily survive the next gen at 1080p, maybe 1440p too.
 
Wow. This thread is so full of information, yet I feel like I know less than when I first got up this morning. Too much stuff to learn when you have no clue about anything. I'm on the edge of simply buying a Alienware X51 since it's just.. Easier. And yes, even I know I'm just gonna get robbed.

Sincerely, I don't want to build a computer, I just want to get a really nice computer for what my budget is of 1000$ (CAN). I've researched a ton already for my new TV I just bought recently and it got to a point where I got so frustrated at how everything is so complicated now.

Any kind hearted Gaffer that could put a quick and good desktop PC in which Microsoft Office, Adobe and the likes are in? I also have in my hand a Dell Monitor that is in almost perfect condition that I would like to keep, so It would need to be compatible. I also havn't played on PC for ever, so any good graphic card that could come with it that could potentitally let me play good games would be amazing!

I know I'm asking a lot considering all the informations and time that has been given to this topic and I'm sorry. I'm just a lazy and easily irritated guy that is asking for the help of some Gaffers that knows tons better than me in this department. I would feel eternally grateful if someone could help. Thank you.




Budget: 1000$ Canada
Main Use: Navigating the Internet, some excel work, light gaming.
Monitor Resolution: 24" Dell Monitor that I already have
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: 30 FPS okay.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: I have no clue how to build one. So I'm searching for somewhere I could make it built.
Will you be overclocking?: No clue how, so most likely not.
 
kennah said:
Where in Canada are you? If you want I can build for you for no charge.
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Near Montreal, in Quebec.

Honestly, I'd prefer just buying it from a website/store, my PC at the moment is frying so I'm a bit out of time. (PC shuts off automatically since it gets too hot sometimes) Any suggestion of a good PC for my range of price would be greatly appreciated.
 
I think NCIX has a PC builder tool that lets you choose your parts, and you get the final product. They're canada based too. Also, are you a student? If so, I think you can get a 4 year sub for office 365 for sub-$100.
 
Hey folks.

My apologies, this thread is full of information, but I'm hoping someone could help me out a little.

A friend has just had PC die on her recently and is looking for a new one. I was helping her look through Dell and Amazon but I'm really not convinced these computers are value for money. She plays Guild Wars 2 (amongst other MMO's), so we're looking for something that will run that sufficiently. She's not got the knowledge to build herself so pre-built would be ideal.

Any advice on where to go? Has to be in the states. Maybe something between $600 and $800? Open to all suggestions.

Thanks a lot!
 
Unfortuately this thread isn't the place to go for advice on prebuilt computers. They're not a good value, underperform for the money and you can't be certain about the quality of parts that go into them.

For basic use that doesn't involve gaming, then sure, prebuilts are the way to go, but more often than not they have the double strike of - not a great video card + too shitty a powersupply to put a good one in.

That said - the Alienware X51 is good, but expensive.
 
diaspora said:
I think NCIX has a PC builder tool that lets you choose your parts, and you get the final product. They're canada based too. Also, are you a student? If so, I think you can get a 4 year sub for office 365 for sub-$100.
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I'm not a student at the moment, no. I wento onto this exact website earlier, but then again, I have no clue what to buy from there, be it the processor, video card and what not. I don,t follow the news of it and have really no clue as to what is the best thing to get for 1000$ in budget.
kennah said:
Unfortuately this thread isn't the place to go for advice on prebuilt computers. They're not a good value, underperform for the money and you can't be certain about the quality of parts that go into them.

For basic use that doesn't involve gaming, then sure, prebuilts are the way to go, but more often than not they have the double strike of - not a great video card + too shitty a powersupply to put a good one in.

That said - the Alienware X51 is good, but expensive.
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Hmm I see, I guess PC really is for elites who knows whats'up then. :P Jk

Yeah, I might just go for alienware then since it's a gaming pc plus all the extras that comes with it. (the extra money it cost is gonna hurt, but will definitely save a tons of headaches!) Thanks guys.
 
kennah said:
Unfortuately this thread isn't the place to go for advice on prebuilt computers. They're not a good value, underperform for the money and you can't be certain about the quality of parts that go into them.

For basic use that doesn't involve gaming, then sure, prebuilts are the way to go, but more often than not they have the double strike of - not a great video card + too shitty a powersupply to put a good one in.

That said - the Alienware X51 is good, but expensive.
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To be fair, it does not say this thread is exclusively for PC builders, even when that is the focus. But there are many store that also assemble the thing for you where you still need to pick the parts.

Baldwin_the_First said:
I'm not a student at the moment, no. I wento onto this exact website earlier, but then again, I have no clue what to buy from there, be it the processor, video card and what not. I don,t follow the news of it and have really no clue as to what is the best thing to get for 1000$ in budget.


Hmm I see, I guess PC really is for elites who knows whats'up then. :P Jk

Yeah, I might just go for alienware then since it's a gaming pc plus all the extras that comes with it. (the extra money it cost is gonna hurt, but will definitely save a tons of headaches!) Thanks guys.
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There are already lists with components in the OP, you can just pick components from one of those and let those be assembled.
 
Baldwin_the_First said:
I'm not a student at the moment, no. I wento onto this exact website earlier, but then again, I have no clue what to buy from there, be it the processor, video card and what not. I don,t follow the news of it and have really no clue as to what is the best thing to get for 1000$ in budget.


Hmm I see, I guess PC really is for elites who knows whats'up then. :P Jk

Yeah, I might just go for alienware then since it's a gaming pc plus all the extras that comes with it. (the extra money it cost is gonna hurt, but will definitely save a tons of headaches!) Thanks guys.
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Read the OP, it shows the kinda best bet for different price ranges. Add a couple bucks for things in Canada. I can help you come with a specific build on the NCIX website if that's the way you want to go. If you're going to be gaming the kinda best bet with support is the X51. As a bonus they're nice and small too. Sorry I couldn't be of more specific help, there's just too large a gap between prebuilts and the needs for gaming these days.
 
While I'm going to browse the link in the OP to Headphone GAF, does anyone have any good recs for some $50-100 speakers?

I'm trying to decide between The Asus VS239H-P, and the Asus VH238H .

An IPS would be nice, and I know that most monitor speakers come out tinny, but I've never really looked into anything other than $15 target headsets, or super-cheap speakers
 
So I'm looking to upgrade from my Samsung SA950 monitor.

I was thinking of the BenQ XL2411T, would that be considered a good upgrade?
 
I just replaced my ram, and after doing so, I was asked to change settings in BIOS. I changed ram frequency to 1600, but when I launch CPU-Z, I only see a frequency of 666.7 MHz, which when even multiplied by two, still doesn't give me 1600MHz.

What am I doing wrong?
 
Thanks guys, I'll take everything you've said in consideration, I might just go with Alienware though considering it's a lot easier. I've tried NCIX.com to find some parts for the CM 120 Elite Standard - IVY (from the OP), yet some parts wern't available. I felt headaches were already forming so I,ll just take a break for the moment. :P

Thanks again.
 
Ragus said:
I just replaced my ram, and after doing so, I was asked to change settings in BIOS. I changed ram frequency to 1600, but when I launch CPU-Z, I only see a frequency of 666.7 MHz, which when even multiplied by two, still doesn't give me 1600MHz.

What am I doing wrong?
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Might just be displaying wrong in cpu-z. Check the memory tab specifically.
 
I need some help. I'm updating my BIOS so I can overclock my cpu better(to get 21x on my 920) but when I did that windows 8 wouldn't boot, so I reset the BIOS to default and am trying to find my product key to do a fresh install. The only thing I can find is the 8.1 upgrade key which apparently is useless without the 8 product key. Anyone know what I can do? Thanks.

Jeez, i find the key, put it in the MS site to get an iso download. rip the iso and run it and it says the key doesn't work.... wtf
 
Do component prices get jacked up right before the shopping season so the discounts appear deeper? That's what it looks like to me as I've been keeping an eye on pricing.
 
Do you guys think that this is a good gaming monitor?

I didn't need anything super special; i just saw it up for a lightning deal on amazon for $144 and decided to buy it.
 
Reposting because I don't know what to do about the case ^^; Also does this stuff go on sale on Black Friday? Would it be worth waiting it out? I feel like being in Canada there might not be spectacular discounts ._.;
Okay, I think I've got everything together except the case; it's between these two:
http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=55583&vpn=RC-912-KKN1&manufacture=COOLERMASTER&promoid=1244
and
http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=65171&vpn=ELEVEN HUNDRED&manufacture=Others&promoid=1244
Pros, cons, do these even fit with the parts below, help? ^^;

Otherwise, does this look like everything I'll need to get started? [still searching for a blu-ray drive]
Intel Core i7 4770K Unlocked Quad Core 3.5GHZ Processor LGA1150 Haswell 8MB Cache Retail - $334.99
MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Z87 3PCI-E16 4PCI-E1 CrossFireX/SLI SATA3 4K HDMI USB3.0 Motherboard - $169.99
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 OC 1150MHZ 2GB 6.0GHZ GDDR5 2xDVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Video Card - $254.99
Samsung 840 Evo Series MZ-7TE250BW 250GB 2.5in SATA III Internal SSD Single Unit Version - $198.99
Antec Basiq BP550 Plus 550W 24PIN ATX 12V V2.2 80PLUS Modular Active PFC Power Supply - $69.99
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo Direct Touch 4 Heatpipe Heatsink AM2 AM3 1366/1150/1155/1156/2011 120mm - $34.98
ASUS Xonar Dgx Headphone AMP & 5.1 PCI-E Sound Card With Low Profile Bracket *IR-$5* - $44.99
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB SATA 6GB/S 7200RPM 64MB Cache 3.5IN Hard Drive OEM - $72.88
Kingston KHX1600C9D3B1K2/8GX 8GB Kit 2X4GB 1600MHz DDR3 240PIN DIMM Unbuff Hmp HyperX CL9 - $90.98
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Thanks for all the help so far everyone :3
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AlphaK said:
Do you guys think that this is a good monitor?

I didn't need anything super special; i just saw it up for a lightning deal on amazon for $144 and decided to buy it.
Click to expand...

Any particular reason why you didn't go with the Asus VS247H-P in the OP?

it was $150 the same day the one you got was a lightning deal. It has a $20 rebate as well.
 
NoRéN;89056540 said:
Any particular reason why you didn't go with the Asus VS247H-P in the OP?

it was $150 the same day the one you got was a lightning deal. It has a $20 rebate as well.
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I didn't do a lot of research on monitors beforehand, it was more of an impulse thing.

Unfortunately amazon has already shipped the Viewsonic monitor so it's too late.
 
I posted this question in the Window 8.1 thread but thought I would have better luck here.

So I have an ASUS Sabertooth Z87 motherboard with a 4770K CPU. After updating to window 8.1, the usb keyboard and mouse (Logitech) would not work anymore after a restart. I had to go into the bios and switch Intel xHCI mode from Smart Auto to Disable for the USB ports to work again. I'm not really sure about this but I believe turning xHCI off will also disable USB 3.0 speed. Anyone else have this problem and know a way to get the USB mouse and keyboard working without having to turn off Intel xHCI mode?
 
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