j0hnny_385
Member
When can we expect some properly cooled R9 290s?
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Ban Puncher
Member
How is the stock CPU cooler on the 4770K? Can I get away without having a custom heatsink such as the CM 212X or should I just harden up and learn to apply thermal paste like a civilised human?
If you want to overclock you need to. There really is nothing to it. Just a pea sized amount in the middle. No need to manually spread or anything.
No problem, I understand - PCPP can be a little misleading. With a few tweaks you can get it down to $634 with an i3 which gives you a bit more wiggle room
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($129.00 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: Asus B85M-G Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($78.93 @ DirectCanada)
Memory: Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($61.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.75 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card ($169.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($53.13 @ DirectCanada)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($15.79 @ DirectCanada)
Total: $633.57
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-11-11 03:34 EST-0500)
It's still Haswell which you should go for for slightly better performance per clock (and it really isn't any more money than Ivy Bridge) plus a better power supply that also has 6-pin and 6+2pin cables in case you decide to upgrade the graphics card in a few years time.
It is. You'd be drawing maybe 300W with that setup.
schandmann
Member
1. No, it's not significant. You'll still be able to get a really decent OC going with this thing. I'd even argue that dropping the speed to 1600rpm is good move, because it kills some of the noise.
2. No. It's the fan's max speed. If you want faster, buy another fan. (And live with the noise.)
3. Yes. Still the best in class. To get significantly better results, you'll either have to go watercooled (H60), or move up to 140mm air coolers (NH-D14).
We'll have the install guide available online so you can see how involved it is before buying. IMO, if you can put together a PC you can do the upgrade with no fuss.
OminoMichelin
Member
so guys I've been on the internet long enough to know that if a deal is too good to be true, it probably isn't, but I've browsed ebay for a bit and there these german vendors selling (non assembled?) pcs for 100 or 150 less than amazon. The catch is that often they have 4GBs of ram or weak PSU, but there are also deals like these: http://www.ebay.it/itm/AUFRUST-PC-I...ripheriegeräte_PC_Systeme&hash=item485a175f16 What do you guys think?
Dear PC Gaf,
So I built a new PC to hook up to my 720P HDTV (a Samsung PN43D490) and use a gaming device, but I've run into issues with not getting any picture.
When I hook it up via VGA, I get a picture (it's 1024x768, but I gather that's normal over VGA on some sets?)
I've been trying for days to hook it up via HDMI though, and the TV doesn't seem to even detect the PC signal at all.
Here's my set up:
Core i5 4570
HD7950 Boost Edition
16GB Ram
A few details:
- I'm plugging the HDMI cable (which works just fine with other devices) into the HDMI port on the back of the card. This same output and cable works fine when outputting to a PC monitor.
- My TV has 3 HDMI in ports, I've tried them all.
- I've tried turning the PC off, connecting it to a monitor, lowering the resolution to the TV's native res, turning it off, and plugging it back into the TV then powering up, no dice.
- My TV is capable of accepting a 1080p signal and scaling it down as necessary (it does this with the PS3). Shouldn't this work for the PC?
- I'm not really looking to set the TV up as a secondary screen, I'd like it to be the primary display
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
So I built a new PC to hook up to my 720P HDTV (a Samsung PN43D490) and use a gaming device, but I've run into issues with not getting any picture.
When I hook it up via VGA, I get a picture (it's 1024x768, but I gather that's normal over VGA on some sets?)
I've been trying for days to hook it up via HDMI though, and the TV doesn't seem to even detect the PC signal at all.
Here's my set up:
Core i5 4570
HD7950 Boost Edition
16GB Ram
A few details:
- I'm plugging the HDMI cable (which works just fine with other devices) into the HDMI port on the back of the card. This same output and cable works fine when outputting to a PC monitor.
- My TV has 3 HDMI in ports, I've tried them all.
- I've tried turning the PC off, connecting it to a monitor, lowering the resolution to the TV's native res, turning it off, and plugging it back into the TV then powering up, no dice.
- My TV is capable of accepting a 1080p signal and scaling it down as necessary (it does this with the PS3). Shouldn't this work for the PC?
- I'm not really looking to set the TV up as a secondary screen, I'd like it to be the primary display
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Yes it is. AMDs stuff is on a par with Intel from 2009.
Grab a 3570K or a 4670K and don't look back.
The two things I'd look to change are the CPU and the GPU. With a BIOS update your mobo can take an IB CPU and there is room in your budget for a CPU cooler too
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.97 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($25.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $385.94
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-11-11 08:13 EST-0500)
Have you tried having both the monitor and the TV connected up at the same time? That way you should be able to look at your display settings for HDMI on your normal monitor and get them set to something that would work once that is disconnected?
Just finished upgrading my Windows PC (linux is my main workstation, with a core I5). Went from a I7 920 with a GTX570 to a I7 4820k with a GTX770 (4G). I overclocked to CPU to 4.5Ghz without touching the voltage, which is pretty sweet. The 770 is already overclocked by default, so I didn't touch it at all. I only got 8 GB of RAM, I think I'll go to 16 soon so I get more memory bandwidth.
So far everything's working nicely, I didn't reinstall windows 7 and it all upgraded pretty smoothly.
I should get a review version of AC4 pc in a few days, so it's just in time
So far everything's working nicely, I didn't reinstall windows 7 and it all upgraded pretty smoothly.
I should get a review version of AC4 pc in a few days, so it's just in time
I have the exact same TV and never had problems hooking it up to the PC. Never did anything special to get it to display a picture. I did have problems getting 720p to resolution to scale correctly but that seems to be fixed on either with a driver update from AMD or something. In fact this TV won't even switch to an hdmi input unless something is plugged into the port.
CreepingFear
Member
Now, I'm thinking of going with the EVGA ACX 780ti Classified 3GB when it comes out. I figure the 3GB vs 6GB will give me a reason to upgrade to 6GB Maxwell
Felix Lighter
Member
How is this power supply? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=2#scrollFullInfo
After doing some searching it appears to be a rebranded Seasonic.
After doing some searching it appears to be a rebranded Seasonic.
I got a 7950@800MHz that I sometime OC to 975MHz on stock voltage when needed. A Swedish retailer has a special offer on a Powercolor 7970 OC for 1999SEK (usually correlates to $199 when talking American prices),
I'm looking at getting more stable 60fps with even some AA thrown in, but it's not worth it right? Can probably sell the 7950 for something like 1600-1700SEK, but it's still better to wait?
I'm looking at getting more stable 60fps with even some AA thrown in, but it's not worth it right? Can probably sell the 7950 for something like 1600-1700SEK, but it's still better to wait?
Not a super huge leap in performance but if it's not going to cost much then go for it.
batman2million
Member
So I'm holding out till the r9 290 Non-reference cards come out. I know the rumor is that it'll be out around the end of November but will there be some sort of an announcement for the specific date they come out?
Right now I'm videocard-less in my cpu b/c I returned my 280x, so any news on this would be good.
Or should I just opt for the reference card? They run real hot and are real loud and isn't something I'm too keen about.
Right now I'm videocard-less in my cpu b/c I returned my 280x, so any news on this would be good.
Or should I just opt for the reference card? They run real hot and are real loud and isn't something I'm too keen about.
Wait off for 20nm GPUs. Clock for clock there is little in it between a 7950 and 7970. Overclock it further and you'll be fine, with a voltage tweak hopefully you'll get it to at least 1.1GHz.
Wait if you can, man, as tough as that might be. If you buy a reference card, you will probably regret it within a month, as soon as you start seeing aftermarket versions and their performance and noise levels.
Worth upgrading from a 560TI to a 760 or 770, or should I wait for a better cooled 290 or the 800 series nVidia cards? I see they are $260 and $300 on Newegg and the 770 comes with Arkham Origins plus the Ubi games that the 760 also comes with so the price pretty much evens out since I was considering playing that anyway.
Figure the most taxing games I'll be looking to play over the next year are The Witcher 3 and Battlefield 4. Will the gain from upgrading to a 700 series be worth it or should I wait it out?
Figure the most taxing games I'll be looking to play over the next year are The Witcher 3 and Battlefield 4. Will the gain from upgrading to a 700 series be worth it or should I wait it out?
I'm on the same camp.
The new R9 290 is so very tempting though. Once the none reference cooled ones start coming out they're going to be irresistible.
Which 780 do you have?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-Item-_-20-168-063&&et_cid=2663&et_rid=90479&
Toshiba 256gig SSD for $150
Toshiba 256gig SSD for $150
Exact same boat, though I don't care about the deal with the games right now. For me I decided I'm going to wait and get a 280 or 290.
From what we know you won't see a new arch from Nvidia till Q4 2014.
You are either in a situation where you can get a strong card now and it will be fine down the road or you need one now to keep up with your monitor
Waiting is going to put you in a continuous cycle. If you need a card to play games now then get a card. Otherwise wait till you are in need.
That is the only reckoner that preserves your sanity
You are either in a situation where you can get a strong card now and it will be fine down the road or you need one now to keep up with your monitor
Waiting is going to put you in a continuous cycle. If you need a card to play games now then get a card. Otherwise wait till you are in need.
That is the only reckoner that preserves your sanity
Deaf Spacker
Memb
Can anybody identify this GPU? I need to know if it is worth anything (probably not) before I throw it away:
Blast Processing
Member
Saturday night, I finish up my gaming for the night and shut down my PC. Sunday afternoon, It no longer boots.
Through some testing, I determine that either my i7 920 or my motherboard went bad overnight--doesn't really matter which, because at this point replacing either means replacing both as well as RAM. So, with apparently more money than sense, and valuable game time going to waste, I jump in the car and head to Fry's to get whatever is in stock.
How did I do, GAF?
i7 4770k
Msi z87-g45
16Gb Corsair Dominator
$670
This all is currently paired with an aging 560Ti, but I'm waiting for Witcher 3 before upgrading that.
Through some testing, I determine that either my i7 920 or my motherboard went bad overnight--doesn't really matter which, because at this point replacing either means replacing both as well as RAM. So, with apparently more money than sense, and valuable game time going to waste, I jump in the car and head to Fry's to get whatever is in stock.
How did I do, GAF?
i7 4770k
Msi z87-g45
16Gb Corsair Dominator
$670
This all is currently paired with an aging 560Ti, but I'm waiting for Witcher 3 before upgrading that.
Anton668
Member
Can anybody identify this GPU? I need to know if it is worth anything (probably not) before I throw it away:
HIS HD 3850 IceQ 3 Turbo 512MB (256bit) GDDR3 AGP
first thing I found in google...
dorkimoe
Member
Stormtrooper30
Member
How does the Black Friday/Cyber Monday season fair for PC builders? Mine is five years old and I'd like to do a completely new build soon as I forgo the next generation of consoles for a while.
It looks like it's the PCIe version, but it's not going to be worth anything either way.
ab.aeterno
Member
Ok guys, I'm desperate, so please help a GAF brother out.
I need a triple monitor mount/stand. I'd prefer freestanding to clamp since my desk is thin and all that weight in the back would be worrisome, but I'll take what I can get.
It needs to be able to securely hold 3 22" monitors; being able to accomodate a future 27" in the middle would be great. I'd like the monitors to be able to be flush with each other, level, and angled inward, up to 30 or 45 degrees.
I was looking at this one, but there's no proper reviews for it I can find and it is really expensive.
I'd prefer cheaper, but fuck it. I bought a cheaper stand and it's been such a pain in the ass I'd rather just spend more and get something good. The one I have has no inward angling, the monitors all face downward from a loose tilt mechanism, and the monitors are uneven. Never again.
I need a triple monitor mount/stand. I'd prefer freestanding to clamp since my desk is thin and all that weight in the back would be worrisome, but I'll take what I can get.
It needs to be able to securely hold 3 22" monitors; being able to accomodate a future 27" in the middle would be great. I'd like the monitors to be able to be flush with each other, level, and angled inward, up to 30 or 45 degrees.
I was looking at this one, but there's no proper reviews for it I can find and it is really expensive.
I'd prefer cheaper, but fuck it. I bought a cheaper stand and it's been such a pain in the ass I'd rather just spend more and get something good. The one I have has no inward angling, the monitors all face downward from a loose tilt mechanism, and the monitors are uneven. Never again.
Sanctuary
Member
I must have "won" the 4670k lottery; shit end of the spectrum edition. So many people are posting overclocks of up to 4.5ghz without having to break beyond 1.25 vcore, and I can't even get 4.4ghz stable without it being at 1.34. Which is really on the unusually high side. I wanted to go for 4.5ghz, and I probably could reach it (my temps are actually fine), but I don't relish the idea of having to use a 1.4+vcore.
VisceralBowl
Member
Can you buy Aftermarket GPU coolers (DirectCU 2, ACX, etc) without the card? I have a stock 780 but would like to push it a little more.
EDIT: No water blocks
EDIT: No water blocks
There's not a ton of good options for VGA cooling, unfortunately, but I have the enormous Accelero Xtreme III on my 6870, and it does the job quite well. A bit expensive at full price, but I got it for $50, which seems fair enough.
VisceralBowl
Member
That seems to be one of the (few) options that would work. Do you guys think it would be worth it to buy one of these type of coolers or just live with the stock one?
JediMasterMatt
Member
The best option for cheap GPU cooling is to use a closed loop water cooler like the Antec Kuhler 620 and use the zip tie mod to attach it. $50 and 20c+ temp drops. Extremely easy to do and way better cooling than and air solution. Since it's a closed loop next to no maintenance.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1203636/official-amd-ati-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-red-mod
Are you from PoCo? I think I saw your listing on craigslist.
Considering there's a lack of good aftermarket air coolers for $50 and less, I'd agree. I'd still probably go with my Accelero Extreme III over an AIO liquid cooler at the same price, but it takes up too much space for CrossFire or SLI systems.
On a similar note, I used an Enzotech CPU block for a while on a GTX 480 that I had, which worked well. All I had to do was drill some new holes in the mounting bracket and use some compatible hardware to attach it to the card.
IMACOMPUTA
Member
GAF I need help.
I just recently got the xfx 1050w 90plus gold modular PSU.
When I first put the new PSU in I couldn't get it to boot. It would show the startup splash screen and take longer than usual and then either go to a black screen where it sits for eternity or go to a black screen with a white blinking cursor in the top left of the screen for eternity.
When I try to go to the bios it either doesn't , and it goes to a black screen or itll go to my "ezmode" bios but when I try to go to advanced it hangs up on a black screen.
I messed with it forever trying to figure it out and made sure everything was plugged in but it still wouldn't boot up. I tried using onboard video, reseated ram, unplugged everything except bare minimum. Nothing worked. So I tried my old PSU and it eventually worked. I think... I really can't remember. Eventually I just put the new PSU back in and replugged all the connections (on both ends because its modular ) and it worked.
Its worked for days now. Ive restarted a couple times and its worked fine.
Today I unplugged one of my case fans because there's something wrong with it and it makes a lot of noise. A couple hours later I had to restart because HDMI audio breaks sometimes when I switch displays.
After that restart its doing the same thing again. Black screen. Not booting. I'm wondering if there's some kind of short or something, but I unplugged all of the case fans and it still doesn't boot. I wanna say its some kind of protection thing that the PSU is doing.
EDIT: I unplugged the power cable to the PSU for like 2 minutes and jiggled my CM212 hsf before trying again and it booted.
I restarted it and now it won't boot again.
EDIT: Tried old psu and still won't let me in bios.
EDIT: changed out the cpu fan and it booted. Restarted and now its not booting again.
I just recently got the xfx 1050w 90plus gold modular PSU.
When I first put the new PSU in I couldn't get it to boot. It would show the startup splash screen and take longer than usual and then either go to a black screen where it sits for eternity or go to a black screen with a white blinking cursor in the top left of the screen for eternity.
When I try to go to the bios it either doesn't , and it goes to a black screen or itll go to my "ezmode" bios but when I try to go to advanced it hangs up on a black screen.
I messed with it forever trying to figure it out and made sure everything was plugged in but it still wouldn't boot up. I tried using onboard video, reseated ram, unplugged everything except bare minimum. Nothing worked. So I tried my old PSU and it eventually worked. I think... I really can't remember. Eventually I just put the new PSU back in and replugged all the connections (on both ends because its modular ) and it worked.
Its worked for days now. Ive restarted a couple times and its worked fine.
Today I unplugged one of my case fans because there's something wrong with it and it makes a lot of noise. A couple hours later I had to restart because HDMI audio breaks sometimes when I switch displays.
After that restart its doing the same thing again. Black screen. Not booting. I'm wondering if there's some kind of short or something, but I unplugged all of the case fans and it still doesn't boot. I wanna say its some kind of protection thing that the PSU is doing.
EDIT: I unplugged the power cable to the PSU for like 2 minutes and jiggled my CM212 hsf before trying again and it booted.
I restarted it and now it won't boot again.
EDIT: Tried old psu and still won't let me in bios.
EDIT: changed out the cpu fan and it booted. Restarted and now its not booting again.
Unknown One
Member
I put my OS on SSD and everything else on HDD, but that's me.
Newegg is getting hammered.
Newegg is getting hammered.
It's cheaper and you get more storage space going with a smaller SSD and HDD. If you can afford a 1TB SSD, and it provides all the space you need, go ahead since it will provide the fastest performance. Personally, I went the SSDs and HDDs option. I have over 2TB of Steam games. No way that will fit on even the largest SSD. If I need the speed, I just move whatever game I am currently playing to the SSD, with programs lik Steam Mover. So, I still get the best of both worlds.
Current storage setup:
2X128GB Raid 0 Samsung 830 SSDs (OS and programs)
2X250GB Raid 0 Samsung 840 SSDs (Steam Mover games)
3TB Seagate HDD (Steam, Origin and etc.)
2X2TB Raid 1 Seagate HDD (Backup)
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