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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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CidHighwind89

Member
Hi Gaffers. I am finally dipping into the world of building my own pc gaming rig. Mainly because I like the idea of upgrading as time progresses. I am planning on using this rig just for gaming. I have a mac laptop I use for everything else. I have done some research so far and have come up with this build on PC part picker. I would love to have you guys look and this build and see what you think. I don't have my mind made up on any particular part so no worries there. I will be gaming on a 27 inch Dell S2740L monitor. Max of 1080p resolution.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2nIP4

Some areas I am still wavering on:

-AMD vs Intel - I will probably be tinkering with over clocking the cpu. I am looking at either one of the i7 cpus or the FX-8350 Vishera.

-I want a graphics card that is future proof for the 4K area of resolution. The AMD radeons seem hard to come by but are cheaper than the Nvida. I have a GTX 780 Ti on my parts list but I am no way committed to it.

-The build needs to stay around the 2k mark. It is ok if it goes a little over and even better if I can save money and go under a 2k price tag.

Any help would be fantastic.
 
C

chunk3rvd

Member
Just moved the PC I'm building from a 1080p tv to a 720p model and it won't display a picture. Is there a keyboard shortcut I can use to make Windows 7 refresh to the current display?
 
D

diaspora

Member
CidHighwind89 said:
Hi Gaffers. I am finally dipping into the world of building my own pc gaming rig. Mainly because I like the idea of upgrading as time progresses. I am planning on using this rig just for gaming. I have a mac laptop I use for everything else. I have done some research so far and have come up with this build on PC part picker. I would love to have you guys look and this build and see what you think. I don't have my mind made up on any particular part so no worries there. I will be gaming on a 27 inch Dell S2740L monitor. Max of 1080p resolution.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2nIP4

Some areas I am still wavering on:

-AMD vs Intel - I will probably be tinkering with over clocking the cpu. I am looking at either one of the i7 cpus or the FX-8350 Vishera.

-I want a graphics card that is future proof for the 4K area of resolution. The AMD radeons seem hard to come by but are cheaper than the Nvida. I have a GTX 780 Ti on my parts list but I am no way committed to it.

-The build needs to stay around the 2k mark. It is ok if it goes a little over and even better if I can save money and go under a 2k price tag.

Any help would be fantastic.
Click to expand...

As far as GPU goes, wait for the Asus Direct CUII 290x. Runs both cooler and faster than any other GPU and MSRP is $20 more than the regular 290x iirc.
 
W

wwm0nkey

Member
Just made my GF and her parents a new PC for Christmas, second build I've ever done and I didn't break a single thing! :D

Would like to know what you guys think of the specs.

Motherboard: Asus M5A99FX Pro 2.0
CPU: AMD FX 8320
RAM: 8gigs
GPU: GTX 650
 
C

chunk3rvd

Member
chunk3rvd said:
Just moved the PC I'm building from a 1080p tv to a 720p model and it won't display a picture. Is there a keyboard shortcut I can use to make Windows 7 refresh to the current display?
Click to expand...

Further to this - managed to plug the PC back into the 20" 1080p TV and lowered the resolution in Windows to 720p. I moved the PC back to the 32" 720p TV and it still won't display anything. I don't even think it's booting Windows, never mind displaying a picture, although the case and fans switch on. Anyone got any ideas what may cause that? Googled it but can't find anyone with a similar problem :/
 
T

TC McQueen

Member
chunk3rvd said:
Just moved the PC I'm building from a 1080p tv to a 720p model and it won't display a picture. Is there a keyboard shortcut I can use to make Windows 7 refresh to the current display?
Click to expand...
chunk3rvd said:
Further to this - managed to plug the PC back into the 20" 1080p TV and lowered the resolution in Windows to 720p. I moved the PC back to the 32" 720p TV and it still won't display anything. I don't even think it's booting Windows, never mind displaying a picture, although the case and fans switch on. Anyone got any ideas what may cause that? Googled it but can't find anyone with a similar problem :/
Click to expand...
Maybe the HDMI port or whatever on the 32in TV is broken. That or you haven't properly plugged something in after you move the PC to the 32in.
 
C

chunk3rvd

Member
TC McQueen said:
Maybe the HDMI port or whatever on the 32in TV is broken. That or you haven't properly plugged something in after you move the PC to the 32in.
Click to expand...

Just plugged the same wire into my laptop and it displays on the TV so it's not that :/

Tried the PC in 2 different 1080p TVs and it works. They're both shitty 20" supermarket brand TV's. When I plug it into the 32" 720p Samsung I get nothing though. Could their be some sort of HDMI handshake process going on before the PC will boot? Sounds odd I know but Windows definitely isn't starting when it's plugged into this TV. I can tell from the lack of HDD activity
 
Erebus

Erebus

Member
clipboard03xokfy.png
Click to expand...

Are the temps OK PC-GAF?
 
S

ScOULaris

Member
Running the latest stable Catalyst drivers on my MSI R9 270x, and I'm getting higher temperatures when gaming than I was on the beta drivers from just a few weeks ago. Has anyone else experienced this?
 
Erebus

Erebus

Member
chaosblade said:
Those max temps are a bit warm, I'd say. Probably the upper limit of "acceptable," since you shouldn't see it get that hot when you're not running Prime/OCCT/whatever.
Click to expand...

Addnan said:
Temps are fine. You should try lowering the voltage see if you can get it stable, will lower the temps too.
Click to expand...

The thing with my motherboard is that it doesn't support offset voltage adjustments. As long as I remove the "auto" option from the Vcore and input manually a value, this will be a fixed voltage that the CPU will use even when it's idling. Ideally with this motherboard you want to get the clock frequency as high as possible while leaving the voltage on auto. After fiddling around for a bit, I figured that the sweet spot for my chip is at 4.4GHz, anything higher and it becomes unstable with the voltage set at auto.
 
C

ColdDeckEd

Member
What's the better buy, 7870 xt (powercolor 7870 myst) at 250 or 760 (evga acx non sc) at 300? Not currently living in the US. Thanks PC-gaf.
 
K

kharma45

Member
CidHighwind89 said:
Hi Gaffers. I am finally dipping into the world of building my own pc gaming rig. Mainly because I like the idea of upgrading as time progresses. I am planning on using this rig just for gaming. I have a mac laptop I use for everything else. I have done some research so far and have come up with this build on PC part picker. I would love to have you guys look and this build and see what you think. I don't have my mind made up on any particular part so no worries there. I will be gaming on a 27 inch Dell S2740L monitor. Max of 1080p resolution.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2nIP4

Some areas I am still wavering on:

-AMD vs Intel - I will probably be tinkering with over clocking the cpu. I am looking at either one of the i7 cpus or the FX-8350 Vishera.

-I want a graphics card that is future proof for the 4K area of resolution. The AMD radeons seem hard to come by but are cheaper than the Nvida. I have a GTX 780 Ti on my parts list but I am no way committed to it.

-The build needs to stay around the 2k mark. It is ok if it goes a little over and even better if I can save money and go under a 2k price tag.

Any help would be fantastic.
Click to expand...

- Unquestionably the i7 over the 8350.

-For 4K both the 780 Ti and 290X. For the 290X though I advise waiting for non-reference ones.

-If you're just gaming cut your RAM back to 8GB low profile, and swap that cooler to a Hyper 212. Motherboard to the UD3H too unless you really want a red one. Swap your HDD to a WD Blue 1TB too.
 
C

CidHighwind89

Member
kharma45 said:
- Unquestionably the i7 over the 8350.

-For 4K both the 780 Ti and 290X. For the 290X though I advise waiting for non-reference ones.

-If you're just gaming cut your RAM back to 8GB low profile, and swap that cooler to a Hyper 212. Motherboard to the UD3H too unless you really want a red one. Swap your HDD to a WD Blue 1TB too.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input! It looks like waiting for a non-reference 290X seems to be the thing to do right now.

What exactly do you mean by low profile memory? Does the psu seem like overkill?
 
T

teh_pwn

"Saturated fat causes heart disease as much as Brawndo is what plants crave."
Erebus said:
Are the temps OK PC-GAF?
Click to expand...

Perfectly fine.

Did you have to crank up VCore to 1.3V to get 4.4 GHz stable? If not, try to find the stable point then increase VCore a bit more and/ore reduce core frequency by 100 MHz.

I'm not saying your settings aren't ideal. I have seen quite a few Ivy Bridge CPUs that cap out stable at 1.3V and 4.4 GHz.

To give some context: I have overclocked dozens of CPUs for software development compilation. Out of those, only 1 CPU has decayed it's sweet spot over time and I haven't investigated why (could easily be the motherboard/power). So people may mention that running hotter reduces lifespan. That's probably true. But consider I have had dozens of CPUs continuously running at full load (or 50+% of all time during a week) without issue for 3 years. PC gaming isn't that prolonged. Skylake or Skylakes successor will probably be 8 core, up to 5 GHz, IPC gains, etc...I doubt you'll care in 5 years.

Considering how stable I can get these K processors around 4.5 GHz, I fully expect Intel to gradually bump their Xeon processors to that area and start binning more. There's big demand for higher performance CPU in enterprise. There's sort of a gap in cloud compute for it that's just starting to get filled.
 
K

kharma45

Member
CidHighwind89 said:
Thanks for the input! It looks like waiting for a non-reference 290X seems to be the thing to do right now.

What exactly do you mean by low profile memory? Does the psu seem like overkill?
Click to expand...

RAM without the silly heat fins like this stuff on the bottom

6797342070_40c2ab30c4_z.jpg


PSU is fine. It is technically overkill, you could spend ~$50-60 but at that end of the market you do get better efficiency and quieter units.
 
T

teh_pwn

"Saturated fat causes heart disease as much as Brawndo is what plants crave."
Nothing I loathe more than driver bugs that cause BSOD when you're overclocked. You always double guess your overclock.

It's almost never the overclock if the synthetics are stable over hours, you increase Vcore and/or decrease Core Freqency by 100 MHz. Except with Sandy Bridge sometimes LLC had to be adjusted because of instability when VCore ramped up.
 
S

scogoth

Member
teh_pwn said:
Nothing I loathe more than driver bugs that cause BSOD when you're overclocked. You always double guess your overclock.

It's almost never the overclock if the synthetics are stable over hours, you increase Vcore and/or decrease Core Freqency by 100 MHz. Except with Sandy Bridge sometimes LLC had to be adjusted because of instability when VCore ramped up.
Click to expand...

Except the stupid SB/IB logging parity check errors under synthetics and keep chugging along but games wouldn't handle the errors and crash. Took me hours to figure out why it was stable under prime but not BF3.
 
E

ezekial45

Banned
NoRéN;94379935 said:
Where are you installing the case fan?
Click to expand...

There are about 3 different openings around the case, two on top and one on the left side panel. They have hatches you can unscrew to open for vent. These areas look like they can fit another case fan. Unless I'm mistaken.
 
N

NoRéN

Member
ezekial45 said:
There are about 3 different openings around the case that have hatches you can unscrew to open for vent. These areas look like they can fit another case fan. Unless I'm mistaken.
Click to expand...

Yes, I know. And where are you putting these fans? Do those vents have filters?

I'm guessing you want to put a fan on the side panel near the video card?
 
E

ezekial45

Banned
NoRéN;94382659 said:
Yes, I know. And where are you putting these fans? Do those vents have filters?

I'm guessing you want to put a fan on the side panel near the video card?
Click to expand...

Yes, the side panel was what I had in mind. It's right by the card. And no, the vent has no filter. It just opens up a grate.
 
N

NoRéN

Member
ezekial45 said:
Yes, the side panel was what I had in mind. It's right by the card. And no, the vent has no filter. It just opens up a grate.
Click to expand...

I have a fan there as well. I bout some filters for the side panels since the case had none. On my previous pc, a HAF 912, I installed a case fan on the side panel. While it did provide cooling, it was minimal. A few degrees at most. What it did provide was an intake for dust.

So, I recommend you get a filter for the panel based on personal experience.
 
E

ElementJJ

Banned
ezekial45 said:
Yes, the side panel was what I had in mind. It's right by the card. And no, the vent has no filter. It just opens up a grate.
Click to expand...

Side panel fans do disrupt the general airflow of the case, so i dont run them. Your GPU managed to overheat even with its fan at 100%? What temperature did it reach? What is you current fan configuration and speeds?

What tends to happen is that hot air isnt escaping the case quick enough, which means the GPU keeps getting hot air to try to cool itself, that gradually means the air does nothing in terms of cooling as temps rise of the ambient air and the GPU core. So it may mean you need more exhaust fans, not intake. That can be especially true when using non-reference GPU coolers as hot air is dumped into the case.

By having more exhaust than intake, you induce negative pressure which means the case will want to draw in fresh air quicker, and get rid of cool air too.

Ive been through the fan phase, got lots of fans, did nothing. Now i stick to 1 intake and 2 exhaust for negative pressure. Does induce dust buildup, but im prepared to clean every 3-6months. My HAF 922 runs 200mm intake, 200mm and 120mm exhaust, all run at 7v.

I think my friend has the same case as yours and does complain about the temperatures though.

Sid said:
What is the drawback of having an overkill PSU? I'm using that one myself with my mid range PC.
Click to expand...


If you have a look at your PSUs efficiency curve, when running below a certain percentage it becomes very inefficient, that means a small amount of wattage drawn by your PC needs a larger than necessary draw from the wall, means wasted electricity (possibly heat) and of course a bigger bill. Though if that efficiency curve is very flat and 80+, its not a problem at all.
 
K

kennah

Member
Sid said:
What is the drawback of having an overkill PSU? I'm using that one myself with my mid range PC.
Click to expand...
No drawback really. It'll only pull as much power as it's using.

However using an overkill psu is silly if
A) it's too big for your case
b) you are doing a single gpu system
C) you are paying a premium when you don't have to

If there is a good deal and you eventually want to sli then sure. This one in particular came up when I was buying a motherboard for my grandma and they basically threw it in.
 
L

LeGourmand

Member
demosthenes said:
Please do. My 24pin is really short :( It's the only part of my PSU that isn't modular.
Click to expand...

So with my GPU that arrive yesterday, almost a month after the order... I finish building everything up last night. Gonna wait to after Christmas to overclock the CPU. I'm not setting up this new computer and turning my old on into a media player/files server and whatever else i can think of.

4XDLvOu.jpg

042VlvC.jpg

TWsJXXo.jpg
Click to expand...

Sorry for the extra large pictures, forgot to resize them.
 
D

demosthenes

Member
LeGourmand said:
So with my GPU that arrive yesterday, almost a month after the order... I finish building everything up last night. Gonna wait to after Christmas to overclock the CPU. I'm not setting up this new computer and turning my old on into a media player/files server and whatever else i can think of.



Sorry for the extra large pictures, forgot to resize them.
Click to expand...

Fuck me, I'm going to rip my case apart to try and get it better tomorrow.

I am going to flip my PSU over so it's pulling from the bottom like you. Once I do that I think I will have enough room for my 24 pin to be hidden.
 
S

scogoth

Member
SmartBase said:
Anyone tried one of these? Would make GPU watercooling so much easier, don't need any custom loops and such and they have pretty high compatibility.
Click to expand...

No because if you are watercooling your GPU that probably means you are water cooling your CPU and at that point might as well go custom loop for flexibility of radiator size/placement and better tubing management. Not the mention custom full GPU blocks are waaaaaay better looking
 
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