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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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kharma45

Member
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102969


I see that there is a DDR3 and 5 version.. IDoes the DDR5 take the same amount of power?

The non-low profile one is cheaper so if it doesnt really make too big of a difference Ill probably go with that.

Unless anyone has a better suggestion

DDR3 one will be significantly slower than the GDDR5 version. Power consumption should be the same. It'll be a decent upgrade but it is quite a limited system that HP.
 

Gurrry

Member
DDR3 one will be significantly slower than the GDDR5 version. Power consumption should be the same. It'll be a decent upgrade but it is quite a limited system that HP.

I dont plan on making this my future gaming system or anything.. but there are games I own that id like to play with better FPS/settings.

Is it worth the 100 to atleast get that?
 

TheSeks

Blinded by the luminous glory that is David Bowie's physical manifestation.
So, would the "Standard" PC in the OP's spreadsheet run Battlefield 3 and 4 at a decent FPS and still look decent?

Also would I be able to drop the sound-card since it's no use to me (being disabled and all) and save some cash with no game issues about it?

And I tried looking at that PC part-builder site that the OP linked and going through and using the part builder to try to find sales but there's so many parts that look similar I'm not sure which ones to get for the cheapest.

Halp? D:
 

mkenyon

Banned
I get what TDP is (generally), I just don't get why you're saying the AMD stuff turns into a 225-275W TDP CPU when OC'd. By that metric then surely the 4670K is a 130w TDP part when under load at stock?

I just hope more sites come out with more latency stuff for CPUs. What got me interested in the FX 6300 was that the 6350 performed well relative to its rival the i3 3220 in those tests and the only thing I could figure was that it was the mild OC that the 6350 carries. It's a limited number of games there though that TR did, only three. The graphs you tend to post are of older generation titles which the i3 comfortably wins but if TR can do some more with more recent title it'd be interesting to see if they follow the Crysis 3, FC3 trend. It would be nice too as well to see multiplayer benches as you're big into it as you say so it'd be interesting to see how much of a lead, if any, the i3 would have there.

Don't think of me as some sort of AMD nut :p as I said I don't really recommend AMD to anyone on here, I just think the 6300 is the one CPU in their range that is worth some sort of consideration.
Were you looking at total system draw rather than actual processor figures?

I can't remember where I found that article that explored the power usage when OC'd but this is the best I could come up with while still "working".

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/11/06/amd-fx-8350-review/7

3.4->5.0GHz overclock on IVB brings the total system draw from 161 to 267. That's about 6.625 watts per 100MHz interval.

An OC from 4.0->4.8GHz on the 8350 takes total system draw from 213 to 364! That's 18.875 watts per 100MHz interval. Three times as much.

Now, with some really really rough math that should not even be considered as precise, lets take the TDP of the processor at stock speeds, which is 125. Subtract that from the 213 total system draw, and we have a rough estimate that the rest of the PC is pulling about 88W. Take that 88W figure and subtract it from the load OC draw, and you are left with 276W. That's the rough TDP of the 8350 @ 4.8GHz.

For the Ivy part, calculating the same way the system would be 84W (which in really rough approximation is pretty close to what we were looking at with the 8350, so this math is somewhat okay). Looking at the 5.0GHz OC, that puts us right around 183W for an OC 200MHz higher than the 8350.

That overhead is something that needs to be accounted for in cooling capacity and power supply.

Also, calling games 'last gen' is a bit of a disservice, when game performance is much more about the engine than the game in specific. For example, any game on UE3 is going to show the same sort of results, whether it was released in 2006 or 2010. The numbers will be different, but how the numbers relate to each other will remain constant.

Add to the fact that these benchmarks don't even include multiplayer games, which are even more CPU dependent than just about anything listed in these benches, and it swings even further towards Intel.

I think you have an interesting argument for the FX6300, and I've definitely made my reservations clear (being stuck on an AM3+ socket, for example). Until I can get a 990FX system on my test bench and try out CoD, Dota 2, T:A, and SC2 (the only MP games that I can reliably control variables), almost all of the data out there says the per-thread performance of Intel chips still gives them a nod.

Wanting to point at the games that are extremely GPU dependent due to lack of heavy CPU utilization isn't necessarily an indication of what performance might look like on next gen engines. It's a tenuous connection at best, and something that either one of us should hold off on speculating about.
 

kharma45

Member
I dont plan on making this my future gaming system or anything.. but there are games I own that id like to play with better FPS/settings.

Is it worth the 100 to atleast get that?

It would be, but I just don't like that PSU. I could be worrying over nothing but I just dunno.

So, would the "Standard" PC in the OP's spreadsheet run Battlefield 3 and 4 at a decent FPS and still look decent?

Also would I be able to drop the sound-card since it's no use to me (being disabled and all) and save some cash with no game issues about it?

And I tried looking at that PC part-builder site that the OP linked and going through and using the part builder to try to find sales but there's so many parts that look similar I'm not sure which ones to get for the cheapest.

Halp? D:

Depends on what you define as decent. As for the sound card the Standard build doesn't feature one. What is your budget? Fill out the OP and we'll be able to help better.
 

kharma45

Member
Were you looking at total system draw rather than actual processor figures?

I can't remember where I found that article that explored the power usage when OC'd but this is the best I could come up with while still "working".

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/11/06/amd-fx-8350-review/7

3.4->5.0GHz overclock on IVB brings the total system draw from 161 to 267. That's about 6.625 watts per 100MHz interval.

An OC from 4.0->4.8GHz on the 8350 takes total system draw from 213 to 364! That's 18.875 watts per 100MHz interval. Three times as much.

Now, with some really really rough maths that should not even be considered as precise, lets take the TDP of the processor at stock speeds, which is 125. Subtract that from the 213 total system draw, and we have a rough estimate that the rest of the PC is pulling about 88W. Take that 88W figure and subtract it from the load OC draw, and you are left with 276W. That's the rough TDP of the 8350 @ 4.8GHz.

For the Ivy part, calculating the same way the system would be 84W (which in really rough approximation is pretty close to what we were looking at with the 8350, so this maths is somewhat okay). Looking at the 5.0GHz OC, that puts us right around 183W for an OC 200MHz higher than the 8350.

That overhead is something that needs to be accounted for in cooling capacity and power supply.

It was bit-tech where I pulled that figure from with regards to the 4670K http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2013/06/12/intel-core-i5-4670k-haswell-cpu-review/6 but they seem to differ from the ones in that article you've posted. They must have revised the figures for the Haswell review.

PSU wise though even on an overclocked 8350 a 550w should still cut in for most systems up to say a 760, would leave just over 100w of headroom if it can pull exactly 550w and no more. I do agree about the cooler, the 212 which we most frequently recommend generally it seems is good for about 4.5 GHz on the 8350 with one example I found of temps being between 40-48 degrees Celsius.

Also, calling games 'last gen' is a bit of a disservice, when game performance is much more about the engine than the game in specific. For example, any game on UE3 is going to show the same sort of results, whether it was released in 2006 or 2010. The numbers will be different, but how the numbers relate to each other will remain constant.

Add to the fact that these benchmarks don't even include multiplayer games, which are even more CPU dependent than just about anything listed in these benches, and it swings even further towards Intel.

I didn't mean them as last gen, I just meant they're approaching two years old at this point and the ones TR used in their last round up were from this year.

I think you have an interesting argument for the FX6300, and I've definitely made my reservations clear (being stuck on an AM3+ socket, for example). Until I can get a 990FX system on my test bench and try out CoD, Dota 2, T:A, and SC2 (the only MP games that I can reliably control variables), almost all of the data out there says the per-thread performance of Intel chips still gives them a nod.

Wanting to point at the games that are extremely GPU dependent due to lack of heavy CPU utilization isn't necessarily an indication of what performance might look like on next gen engines. It's a tenuous connection at best, and something that either one of us should hold off on speculating about.

I totally get your concerns with it as I share most of them too in reality. Crysis 3 though I thought was fairly CPU dependent, but I'm remembering those dreaded FPS graphs on it :p
 

Gurrry

Member
It would be, but I just don't like that PSU. I could be worrying over nothing but I just dunno.

Care to explain your worries on the PSU? Obviously its an internal HP PSU.. so im not getting exactly the best quality.. but from the reasearch ive done, it sounds like it will get the job done as long as im not overclocking.


Is there a cheap alternative that you suggest?
 

TheSeks

Blinded by the luminous glory that is David Bowie's physical manifestation.
Depends on what you define as decent. As for the sound card the Standard build doesn't feature one. What is your budget? Fill out the OP and we'll be able to help better.

A decent build would be "something that is able to hold for the next 2-4 years and look Next-Gen-Console even on Low/30FPS."

But sure:

Basic Desktop Questions:

Your Current Specs: I'm running a laptop that I use for internet and with the direction MS/Sony are going this coming generation and Sony implementing a pay-wall, it's now time for me to jump on the Steam train.
Budget: I'd like something within a "console"-respective price-range ($400-800) that wouldn't need a parts-rat-race for "console" quality gaming on the level of PS4/720 and from the US.
Main Use: 3-5-ish. Using it for art-work, word processing, internet and "console" gaming.
Monitor Resolution: I have a monitor already that is a Sharp 19" that I'm forgetting the max resolution is. But 720p on consoles has been fine with me. Bumping up to 1080 or more would be fine and I could always get a new monitor later if I have a PC that is able to run things beyond 1080.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Battlefield, Battlefield, Battlefield. Previous gen titles (but I guess that would be a given) like Dark Souls and Dark Souls 2. 60FPS would be nice but I'm fine with 30FPS provided my PC wouldn't melt into a pile of goo from running newer/next-gen titles. PS2 and Wii emulation would also be nice to have.
When will you build?: I'd like to build within the next few weeks but if there's some sales planned later on to knock the price down I can wait.
Will you be overclocking?: Probably not. That's a little too "technical" for someone like me that is just starting out.

TL;DR: I'm wanting a "console"/PC that is able to hold up for a few years and not cost me more than the initial build and start me down the road on saving money by buying new parts to upgrade it later on instead of having to build a new build every few years if possible... I'm a total idiot when it comes to PC parts and have never built a new PC myself so I'm completely looking at PC parts and going "derp"/greek-to-me over them.
 

mkenyon

Banned
It was bit-tech where I pulled that figure from with regards to the 4670K http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2013/06/12/intel-core-i5-4670k-haswell-cpu-review/6 but they seem to differ from the ones in that article you've posted. They must have revised the figures for the Haswell review.

PSU wise though even on an overclocked 8350 a 550w should still cut in for most systems up to say a 760, would leave just over 100w of headroom if it can pull exactly 550w and no more. I do agree about the cooler, the 212 which we most frequently recommend generally it seems is good for about 4.5 GHz on the 8350 with one example I found of temps being between 40-48 degrees Celsius.
Yeah, those numbers are total system draw, not an accurate reading of the CPU TDP. It includes things like storage, fans, chipset, memory, optical drive, and all that jazz.

See, the thing about going down this road. Lets say a guy gets an 8350 and a BP550 with a GTX660. A year later, he decides he wants to go big and get something like a GTX780 or 7970. Maybe he has 2 SSDs and also a soundcard. At this point, a PSU upgrade would need to take place. That price difference between the BP550 and a better PSU isn't the only part that needs to be looked at now, but the price of the BP550 AND the difference between a BP550 and a new PSU.

Recommendations should be looked at in the long term. Most people that actively seek help aren't fucking insane like the rest of us, constantly switching in and out parts, making upgrades here and there, and obsessing over every new release. The systems they are buying should be at *least* two year investments, hopefully more.

Laying out a system that best helps the person achieve that while also getting the best performance is the goal here.
 

RurouniZel

Asks questions so Ezalc doesn't have to
A quick question for all of you.

Back in 2010 I put this build together. And while it runs most of my games/programs perfectly adequately it only really allows me to overclock to 3.8Ghz, which limits what games I can play on Dolphin or PCSX2 at a reasonable frame-rate in HD.

If I were to switch from an AMD board/CPU to an Intel board/CPU for better overclocking, would I have to reformat and reinstall everything in the PC? What would be the best processor for overclocking for good emulation?
 

kharma45

Member
Care to explain your worries on the PSU? Obviously its an internal HP PSU.. so im not getting exactly the best quality.. but from the reasearch ive done, it sounds like it will get the job done as long as im not overclocking.

Is there a cheap alternative that you suggest?

It should be fine actually, forgot the 7750 doesn't need a 6 pin connector.

A decent build would be "something that is able to hold for the next 2-4 years and look Next-Gen-Console even on Low/30FPS."

But sure:

Basic Desktop Questions:

Your Current Specs: I'm running a laptop that I use for internet and with the direction MS/Sony are going this coming generation and Sony implementing a pay-wall, it's now time for me to jump on the Steam train.
Budget: I'd like something within a "console"-respective price-range ($400-800) that wouldn't need a parts-rat-race for "console" quality gaming on the level of PS4/720 and from the US.
Main Use: 3-5-ish. Using it for art-work, word processing, internet and "console" gaming.
Monitor Resolution: I have a monitor already that is a Sharp 19" that I'm forgetting the max resolution is. But 720p on consoles has been fine with me. Bumping up to 1080 or more would be fine and I could always get a new monitor later if I have a PC that is able to run things beyond 1080.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Battlefield, Battlefield, Battlefield. Previous gen titles (but I guess that would be a given) like Dark Souls and Dark Souls 2. 60FPS would be nice but I'm fine with 30FPS provided my PC wouldn't melt into a pile of goo from running newer/next-gen titles. PS2 and Wii emulation would also be nice to have.
When will you build?: I'd like to build within the next few weeks but if there's some sales planned later on to knock the price down I can wait.
Will you be overclocking?: Probably not. That's a little too "technical" for someone like me that is just starting out.

TL;DR: I'm wanting a "console"/PC that is able to hold up for a few years and not cost me more than the initial build and start me down the road on saving money by buying new parts to upgrade it later on instead of having to build a new build every few years if possible... I'm a total idiot when it comes to PC parts and have never built a new PC myself so I'm completely looking at PC parts and going "derp"/greek-to-me over them.

I forgot to ask if you needed Windows too, I'm just gonna barge on ahead and say no to that for you :p if you do I can scale the build appropriately to accommodate that. It's easy to max out your budget, this is an incredibly potent machine and is only missing an SSD. Also, CPU is $20 more if you don't have a Microcenter nearby, and that motherboard comes with 8GB RAM for free. Whilst it's only single channel I feel it's worth it with regards to VFM but that's your call at the end of the day.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD55 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($132.86 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($66.61 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $769.42
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-17 20:09 EDT-0400)

If you're needing Windows you'd need to drop the GPU to something like a 7850, 7870 or a 660

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD55 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($132.86 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($66.61 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Asus Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card ($160.00 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($87.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $767.41
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-17 20:11 EDT-0400)

Yeah, those numbers are total system draw, not an accurate reading of the CPU TDP. It includes things like storage, fans, chipset, memory, optical drive, and all that jazz.

See, the thing about going down this road. Lets say a guy gets an 8350 and a BP550 with a GTX660. A year later, he decides he wants to go big and get something like a GTX780 or 7970. Maybe he has 2 SSDs and also a soundcard. At this point, a PSU upgrade would need to take place. That price difference between the BP550 and a better PSU isn't the only part that needs to be looked at now, but the price of the BP550 AND the difference between a BP550 and a new PSU.

Recommendations should be looked at in the long term. Most people that actively seek help aren't fucking insane like the rest of us, constantly switching in and out parts, making upgrades here and there, and obsessing over every new release. The systems they are buying should be at *least* two year investments, hopefully more.

Laying out a system that best helps the person achieve that while also getting the best performance is the goal here.

True, no more AMD talk from me (hopefully) until October then and Steamroller appears. I hope for their sake they do make the IPC gains they've targeted.

A quick question for all of you.

Back in 2010 I put this build together. And while it runs most of my games/programs perfectly adequately it only really allows me to overclock to 3.8Ghz, which limits what games I can play on Dolphin or PCSX2 at a reasonable frame-rate in HD.

If I were to switch from an AMD board/CPU to an Intel board/CPU for better overclocking, would I have to reformat and reinstall everything in the PC? What would be the best processor for overclocking for good emulation?

I believe so. For emulation Haswell is best, 4670K or 4770K is the two you'll be looking at.
 

HelloMeow

Member
How much cheaper is a mATX board? I can't imagine by much really if at all. Extreme4 isn't the Z77 board to go for either, stuff like the MSI GD55 is a better buy.
.
They can be about 10-20€ cheaper, but that's not really the issue. I'd rather have a less bulky motherboard that has everything I need, than a bigger one, with all kinds of stuff I'll never use. Unless of course, Micro ATX motherboards have some kind of disadvantage I don't know about. For example, I just found out that the Micro ATX version of the Extreme4 has 4+2 power phases, vs 8+4 on the ATX version. Supposedly, 8+4 is a bit better.

Anyhow, after doing some more research and looking at people's opinions everywhere, the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H seems to be preferred in the price range I'm looking at. So I guess I'm going to go with that.
 

Kintaro

Worships the porcelain goddess
Amazon has the Samsung MZ-7TD250BW 840 Series Solid State Drive (SSD) 250 GB for $168. Should I jump on this? I'm tempted over the 120 GB as a "just in case, more space is a safety net" type of thing.
 

TheSeks

Blinded by the luminous glory that is David Bowie's physical manifestation.
Win 7 isn't being sold anymore? I really do not want Win8/Metro on my system for as long as I can help it. Yes, I am one of the insane detractors that hates Metro/everything Win 8 stands for. :/ I could probably find that in retail though so it isn't important and I can run Left 4 Dead/TF2 on Steam for a bit anyway so it isn't a huge deal outside of the windows-only games like Dark Souls needing it.

What the hell is VFM? I have no clue what you're talking about. D: Edit: Oh, Value For Money.

Oh and I should probably add that Phys-X and stuff: Not really needed, probably nice to have but I'm not really needing it if that factors into budgets.

As for the i-5, yeah: I was looking at that but I wasn't sure if the price-hike from the i-3 the standard build wanted was worth it in terms of future proofing.
 

knitoe

Member
Amazon has the Samsung MZ-7TD250BW 840 Series Solid State Drive (SSD) 250 GB for $168. Should I jump on this? I'm tempted over the 120 GB as a "just in case, more space is a safety net" type of thing.

I see them often on sale for around $150. And, more space is always worthwhile, especially if you use it for moving games on/off. So far, no issues running 2 in raid 0.
 
Hey guys, I’ve just recently ran the Heaven Benchmark on my Sapphire Vapor-X 7970 GHz 3GB, and I would like to know if these numbers seem decent or not.

xaBJy32.png
 
Alright, let's do this.

Your Current Specs: I'm really not sure. I'm trying to replace my 7 year old laptop.

Budget: 3,000 smackeroos, if absolutely necessary. I live in Toronto.

Main Use: Light Gaming/Gaming (5) Emulation (1), Video Editing (2), Streaming (3), 3D/Model work (1), General Usage (4).

Monitor Resolution: Whatever the standard is.

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: For the sake of having a high standard, let's say Battlefield 3.

Looking to reuse any parts?: 7 year old laptop. So no.

When will you build?: Any time before the next gen consoles release.

Will you be overclocking?: I guess so.
 
Would really like a decent budget build for FFXIV and web browsing mostly. Getting a ps4 in fall so most of my I guess next gen gaming will be on that. Laptop seems to be going and I never take my laptop anywhere anyway so I'd rather build a pc and then when I want to upgrade in future I'd have a good base to make it a bit easier to do so. Plus if I'd ever get into the mood to take stuff outside of home I'd get a tablet. Any ideas would be really great, oh and thanks op for great resources in thread.

Your Current Specs: 3 year old laptop (lame celeron)
Budget: $550-$600 in U.S.A
Main Use: 3. some gaming on mmo's and steam games and web browsing mostly
Monitor Resolution: was planning on setting up through hdmi on hdtv if possible
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: FFXIV and steam games, occassional pc exclusives that arent too taxing on hardware requirements. Would Like FFXIV to run 45-55 fps if possible in budget.
Looking to reuse any parts?: just basic keyboard and hopefully hook up to hdtv
When will you build?: build before late aug. early sept.
Will you be overclocking?: probably not at the moment.
 
Amazon has the Samsung MZ-7TD250BW 840 Series Solid State Drive (SSD) 250 GB for $168. Should I jump on this? I'm tempted over the 120 GB as a "just in case, more space is a safety net" type of thing.

I'm already using like 180GB on my 250 and I just put the system together, heh.

Win 7 isn't being sold anymore?

You can still get it at Newegg, etc. I just bought a copy last month.
 
Your Current Specs: I don't currently have a desktop. I just got parts for the PC I think I want to build. I got an AMD A10 6800k, 8GB RAM, MSI FS2 motherboard.
Budget: $600-$750
Main Use: Next-Gen Gaming that will match PS4 and Xbox One. It's basically in lieu of buying a next gen console.
Monitor Resolution: Hooking it up to my LCD TV. I'm fine with 720p.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I'm fine with 30 fps as games get more graphically intensive. I want to run a game like Battlefield 4 at 1080p and 60fps though.
Looking to reuse any parts?: N.A
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? I'm looking to build ASAP.

So basically I'm looking to build a next-gen equivalent gaming PC. Hopefully one that will hold up for a couple of years.

These are the parts I bought today, and I'm looking for a GPU now. http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/canadiancrowe/saved/1YVY

Thanks
 

Socreges

Banned
What do you guys put on your HDD versus on your SSD? Do games load faster if they're installed on the SSD? I don't understand why 250GB would be necessary for me over 125GB.
 
So I updated to latest drivers on my 560Ti and have already had one hard lock again. Less than 24 hours later.

:(

What do you guys put on your HDD versus on your SSD? Do games load faster if they're installed on the SSD? I don't understand why 250GB would be necessary for me over 125GB.

Yes
 

x3sphere

Member
250GB for peace of mind, also don't underestimate how much things like Windows Update and your browser cache will take up. Chrome's cache folder is using like 2GB here. Sometimes games like to place save files on the primary drive even when you install to a different HDD too.

Granted these things can be worked around but I just rather get a bigger drive and not worry.
 

Blizzard

Banned
Has anyone with a GTX 770 ever had a nasty high-pitched whine if something runs at a very high framerate? I ran a graphical program which went into fullscreen mode at 1900+ fps, and when that is the case, the whine (coil whine?) happens. I'm just hoping it's nothing wrong with the thing. If I force vsync the problem goes away.
 
Has anyone with a GTX 770 ever had a nasty high-pitched whine if something runs at a very high framerate? I ran a graphical program which went into fullscreen mode at 1900+ fps, and when that is the case, the whine (coil whine?) happens. I'm just hoping it's nothing wrong with the thing. If I force vsync the problem goes away.

Yes. My MSI GTX 780 Gaming edition does that when I run the first part of the 3dMark 2013 benchmark. At 1200-1600 fps there is a high pitched whine.

When I run the FFXIV: ARR benchmark at 4k with a heavy overclock, the fans turn up slightly. Wut.

I don't know either man. It's probably not really a problem.
 

Roland1979

Junior Member
Amazon has the Samsung MZ-7TD250BW 840 Series Solid State Drive (SSD) 250 GB for $168. Should I jump on this? I'm tempted over the 120 GB as a "just in case, more space is a safety net" type of thing.

It's not a safety net. if you're going to install a lot of games on you SSD then it's a necessity. If it's just the OS and a few programs then 120GB is fine. Programs and games are getting larger and larger, you have to account for that as well. Plus, from what i understand, you don't want to (almost) completely fill up a SSD. If it's a good deal then get it if you want to install games on the SSD.
 

Addnan

Member
Would really like a decent budget build for FFXIV and web browsing mostly. Getting a ps4 in fall so most of my I guess next gen gaming will be on that. Laptop seems to be going and I never take my laptop anywhere anyway so I'd rather build a pc and then when I want to upgrade in future I'd have a good base to make it a bit easier to do so. Plus if I'd ever get into the mood to take stuff outside of home I'd get a tablet. Any ideas would be really great, oh and thanks op for great resources in thread.

Your Current Specs: 3 year old laptop (lame celeron)
Budget: $550-$600 in U.S.A
Main Use: 3. some gaming on mmo's and steam games and web browsing mostly
Monitor Resolution: was planning on setting up through hdmi on hdtv if possible
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: FFXIV and steam games, occassional pc exclusives that arent too taxing on hardware requirements. Would Like FFXIV to run 45-55 fps if possible in budget.
Looking to reuse any parts?: just basic keyboard and hopefully hook up to hdtv
When will you build?: build before late aug. early sept.
Will you be overclocking?: probably not at the moment.

From the standard build, it is pushing the $600 budget a little by going for the i5. You can save a little money by not getting a DVD drive and getting a smaller HDD. If you need to buy OS, or can't get hold of it for cheap then you can knock the CPU down to a 3220 and save a big chunk.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3350P 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($177.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI B75MA-P45 Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Galaxy GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost 1GB Video Card ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Shinobi ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.58 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $637.50
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-18 02:29 EDT-0400)
 

Socreges

Banned
Get the 250.
Bah, fine

kennah said:
Also nice snag. Hell of a set of parts if you can get it. Be careful on getting stuff shipped to Canada. Make sure it goes USPS and NOT fedex or ups.
Unfortunately he'll only ship to the continental US :/

If I were to wait a month, would prices necessarily go down on any of these parts? Or is it likely to be the same price for the next little bit, maybe even going up depending on sales?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
There won't be a 760 Ti.
Sure there will be. Just not now :p
I
Seems to perform reasonably well

900x900px-LL-a95b77d9_9e01fd1c.png
Frosty sucks, 9900 sucks. But since he has it already that's fine. Just don't cut yourself too bad when installing.
Amazon has the Samsung MZ-7TD250BW 840 Series Solid State Drive (SSD) 250 GB for $168. Should I jump on this? I'm tempted over the 120 GB as a "just in case, more space is a safety net" type of thing.
Buy it.
Has anyone with a GTX 770 ever had a nasty high-pitched whine if something runs at a very high framerate? I ran a graphical program which went into fullscreen mode at 1900+ fps, and when that is the case, the whine (coil whine?) happens. I'm just hoping it's nothing wrong with the thing. If I force vsync the problem goes away.
Common coilwhine, not exclusive to any cards. You can read up on user fixes like putting glue on stuff if you want.
 

kharma45

Member
.
They can be about 10-20€ cheaper, but that's not really the issue. I'd rather have a less bulky motherboard that has everything I need, than a bigger one, with all kinds of stuff I'll never use. Unless of course, Micro ATX motherboards have some kind of disadvantage I don't know about. For example, I just found out that the Micro ATX version of the Extreme4 has 4+2 power phases, vs 8+4 on the ATX version. Supposedly, 8+4 is a bit better.

Anyhow, after doing some more research and looking at people's opinions everywhere, the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H seems to be preferred in the price range I'm looking at. So I guess I'm going to go with that.

The ATX Exteme4 is actually the same, ASRock lied about the phases because they run them in parallel.

yeah that gigabyte is a good board. As is the MSI GD55 and one from ASUS around that price, i think its the one that ends in LK.

Win 7 isn't being sold anymore? I really do not want Win8/Metro on my system for as long as I can help it. Yes, I am one of the insane detractors that hates Metro/everything Win 8 stands for. :/ I could probably find that in retail though so it isn't important and I can run Left 4 Dead/TF2 on Steam for a bit anyway so it isn't a huge deal outside of the windows-only games like Dark Souls needing it.

What the hell is VFM? I have no clue what you're talking about. D: Edit: Oh, Value For Money.

Oh and I should probably add that Phys-X and stuff: Not really needed, probably nice to have but I'm not really needing it if that factors into budgets.

As for the i-5, yeah: I was looking at that but I wasn't sure if the price-hike from the i-3 the standard build wanted was worth it in terms of future proofing.

Windows 7 is but since you care about future proofing 8 is better. Its quicker, more secure and will get DX 11.2 which Windows 7 wont. 8.1 looks to be a great update for it and you don't have to deal with the new Start if you don't want to, although i do find it to be pretty good.

Yeah i concur Physx isn't needed but if you go for an upper midrange card the 760 is the best bang for buck. i5 will be worth it in the long run if you can afford it, 4 physical cores and you should be able to overclock it to 4.2-4.5 GHz easy enough and get even more performance and longevity out of it.
 

HelloMeow

Member
The ATX Exteme4 is actually the same, ASRock lied about the phases because they run them in parallel.

yeah that gigabyte is a good board. As is the MSI GD55 and one from ASUS around that price, i think its the one that ends in LK.

Thanks.

That means I'm one step closer to having a final list.
 

kennah

Member
Bah, fine

Unfortunately he'll only ship to the continental US :/

If I were to wait a month, would prices necessarily go down on any of these parts? Or is it likely to be the same price for the next little bit, maybe even going up depending on sales?
Prices typically don't go down. The cheapest way is to build slowly buying stuff during random sales.

But then you'll wind up like me. I started last August and i'm still not "done". Course by the end I'll have payed 1400 for a computer that would be over 2200 full retail. So it is possible to really stretch your dollar if you are patient.
 

bro1

Banned
Hi Guys

I have a GTX 770 for my GPU and I have it set up in the CP for the correct color space (not RGB, the Y one). My TV is a LG with Local LED Dimming and it has been ISF calibrated.

I went into Windows 7 monitor set up and used the Nvidia CP to adjust the Gamma, Brightness, and Contrast. Still, I feel like the blacks are getting crushed (Skyrim especially) and that something is off. Any suggestions?
 

ArynCrinn

Banned
Just a personal recommendation with an epitaph (I only buy G.Skill, Corsair is good too, but for me G.Skill is by far the best with performance, price, stability and reliability).

For anybody looking for a solid low profile RAM stick set, which are perfect for large CPU coolers (with water cooling it wouldn't matter), as opposed to the Ripjaws series with high heat spreaders. And your looking for a reliable brand name. Look no further than G.Skill.'s ARES series. They come at varying speeds and are friendly to overclocking. You can get a 16GB (2x8GB) set here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231556, price is pretty friendly at $131, or buy 2 and max out most mobo's at 32GB!

qYJxB4R.jpg


Just bought a 2nd set myself for my secondary rig.
 
From the standard build, it is pushing the $600 budget a little by going for the i5. You can save a little money by not getting a DVD drive and getting a smaller HDD. If you need to buy OS, or can't get hold of it for cheap then you can knock the CPU down to a 3220 and save a big chunk.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3350P 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($177.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI B75MA-P45 Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Galaxy GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost 1GB Video Card ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Shinobi ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.58 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $637.50
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-18 02:29 EDT-0400)

BOOM!!! there we go much appreciated that seems perfect for what i want and can tinker with that. Thanks a bunch. Gaf never fails
 

kennah

Member
I have an i5-2500k @4,7ghz and a GTX580 OC'd.

is there any reason for me to consider an update?

If you really want to you could get a 780 or Titan, but no, no real reason for you to upgrade if you're happy with what you have. A newer video card would be quieter and pull the same or less power if that influences you at all.
 
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