• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

Status
Not open for further replies.

kharma45

Member
What brand do you guys like for video cards. I'm looking to buy GTX 760; not sure if I should go with ASUS or EVGA? Or is there a better brand than those two?

EVGA, ASUS, Gigabyte and KFA2/Galaxy all have great coolers. Get whichever has the best RMA service where you live.
 

kharma45

Member
You can add the MSI Twin Forzr to the list of good GPU choice.

Yeah even though my Twin Frozr card has now died twice on me they're still a good cooler.

For the 760 the KFA2/Galaxy one is the sexiest imo

W2MXfNA.jpg


IMG_9046.jpg


Has a pretty cool cleaning system too. If you want to clean the card, you can detach the fan sections by removing some screws.
IMG_9053.jpg
 

Gurrry

Member
So.. I went and bought an AMD 7750 to replace my AMD 7450.


Doesnt work.


Even though every thing i have read and researched says that it will work with my current PSU (suuposedly 300 watts, but when i opened it the sticker says 262... so who the fuck knows).

When I put it in, I just get a black screen. My monitor isnt recognizing that there is any sort of display being sent to it. It just goes into power-save mode.

Is this a PSU issue? The card recommends 400w. I obviously dont have that.. but the current card I have supposedly uses the same amount of power as this new one does.

Bleh. This is why I hate PC gaming.
 

tarheel91

Member
Weird quirk I've experienced lately. My CPU fan (212 Evo) will sometimes not turn on. I can send max PWM, and it will do nothing. Restarting the computer and/or unplugging and plugging the fan back in will fix it. On top of this, fan speed can vary greatly with PWM. I was playing around with SpeedFan, and at 65% I went from 800 RPM to 414 RPM.

I have no idea whether this is a fan, BIOS, or motherboard issue.

On the bright side, thanks to my exhaust fan for the computer being perfectly lined up with the heatsink, I found out (accidentally) I can play games (Borderlands 2) with no CPU fan! I run 10-15C hotter, but that's still only 70-75C.
 

Socreges

Banned
I've got buyer's remorse and I haven't spent a dime yet.

Gonna look into a more modest rig that could get me similar results for the next year, I think.

I'll probably change my mind again before the day is over.

Thanks to kennah for continuing to help me out. Even if I don't go with that build, which I still might, I've learned a ton and can actually compare different models now.
 

Esqueleto

Banned
So.. I went and bought an AMD 7750 to replace my AMD 7450.


Doesnt work.


Even though every thing i have read and researched says that it will work with my current PSU (suuposedly 300 watts, but when i opened it the sticker says 262... so who the fuck knows).

When I put it in, I just get a black screen. My monitor isnt recognizing that there is any sort of display being sent to it. It just goes into power-save mode.

Is this a PSU issue? The card recommends 400w. I obviously dont have that.. but the current card I have supposedly uses the same amount of power as this new one does.

Bleh. This is why I hate PC gaming.
The psu shouldn't be the problem. Someone in my family has a 250w with a 7750.It might be defective but i would try reseatting it first and making sure all the cables are connected right.
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Didn't see much in the OP, and Googling around brings up old results and a lot of uncertainty...

Absolute best sound card and headset for surround gaming? Seems sound cards range about $150-$250 for the good stuff, that'd be fine. I know a lot of people recommend headphones instead of a headset, but I want dat surround. Thoughts?
 

Gurrry

Member
The psu shouldn't be the problem. Someone in my family has a 250w with a 7750.It might be defective but i would try reseatting it first and making sure all the cables are connected right.

The GPU didnt come with any cables. It apparently gets the power from somewhere else? Im pretty noobish. I cant remember what the guy said.

I tried putting it in twice. Once without uninstalling my previous drivers, and one time with them uninstalled. It never worked. :(. I made sure it was in there snug before trying too.

God i just want this to work so bad. Idk what to do..
 

mkenyon

Banned
Didn't see much in the OP, and Googling around brings up old results and a lot of uncertainty...

Absolute best sound card and headset for surround gaming? Seems sound cards range about $150-$250 for the good stuff, that'd be fine. I know a lot of people recommend headphones instead of a headset, but I want dat surround. Thoughts?
The soundcard and headset recommendations are based upon this very thing. The ASUS Xonar cards give you surround via Dolby Headphone, Soundblaster with SBX.

The Audio Technica AD700s and AKG Q701s are about the best when it comes to soundstage and positional audio.

The Sennheiser 363Ds come with a USB DAC that gives you Dolby Headphone without the use of a soundcard.

*edit*

Also, to make this clear, almost all "Surround" or "5.1" headsets do virtualized surround with just two speakers. The number of headsets with multiple drivers in each ear are actually universally bad.
 

zeelman

Member
I don't know if I'm being paranoid or what, but my system harddrive seems to running slower then usual. Can someone translate my Crystal Disc Info 'info?'

cmsB7Jv.jpg
 

kennah

Member
The GPU didnt come with any cables. It apparently gets the power from somewhere else? Im pretty noobish. I cant remember what the guy said.

I tried putting it in twice. Once without uninstalling my previous drivers, and one time with them uninstalled. It never worked. :(. I made sure it was in there snug before trying too.

God i just want this to work so bad. Idk what to do..
Your power supply should have a 6 or 8 pin lead coming off of it for video card.

However. A low of prebuilts have shitty powersupplies that do not.

This is why we recommend against most brand name prebuilts. They are designed to be disposable not upgradeable.

Sorry man. This isn't the fault of pc gaming. This is the fault of a budget tower :(
 

brentech

Member
Your power supply should have a 6 or 8 pin lead coming off of it for video card.

However. A low of prebuilts have shitty powersupplies that do not.

This is why we recommend against most brand name prebuilts. They are designed to be disposable not upgradeable.

Sorry man. This isn't the fault of pc gaming. This is the fault of a budget tower :(
doing a quick search, i don't see anyone saying that the 7750 needs anything other than PCI-E supplied power.
 
Well I've got good news and bad news regarding my recent PC build.

The bad news is that my hard drive and optical drive were DOA. And my Corsair 200R case arrived missing its front intake fan, which is annoying as fuck. I emailed TigerDirect and they told me they cannot replace single parts on items, only the whole item. I wasn't about to disassemble my PC and send the case back just for a goddamn fan.

The good news is that after a week's worth of back and forth emails, today they finally agreed to just send me a 120mm Cooler Master fan, which I requested because it would be easier for both of us if they just sent me a fan — any fan. Hopefully they ship my hard drive and optical drive soon. Right now I'm using a spare HDD and it sucks.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Well I've got good news and bad news regarding my recent PC build.

The bad news is that my hard drive and optical drive were DOA. And my Corsair 200R case arrived missing its front intake fan, which is annoying as fuck. I emailed TigerDirect and they told me they cannot replace single parts on items, only the whole item. I wasn't about to disassemble my PC and send the case back just for a goddamn fan.

The good news is that after a week's worth of back and forth emails, today they finally agreed to just send me a 120mm Cooler Master fan, which I requested because it would be easier for both of us if they just sent me a fan — any fan. Hopefully they ship my hard drive and optical drive soon. Right now I'm using a spare HDD and it sucks.
There is a reason TigerDirect isn't on the Resellers list. It's because they suck giant dongs. Like. HUGE dongs.
Listing inventory in stock when it isn't, making it a pain to RMA anything, and both my orders they halted because they pulled up an old address I haven't lived at in 10 years. Fuck them.

Just buy from Amazon, then Newegg or NCIX after. Bought the wrong server heatsink from Amazon, spent 2 minutes in chat and printed a free shipping label for 100% refund which will get processed in 2 days. I don't deal with anyone else first besides Amazon, They just need to get a much better search for parts, their selection has been increasing steadily.

*That CM fan is really nice by the way.
 
There is a reason TigerDirect isn't on the Resellers list. It's because they suck giant dongs. Like. HUGE dongs.
Listing inventory in stock when it isn't, and both my orders they halted because they pulled up an old address I haven't lived at in 12 years. Fuck them.

Just buy from Amazon, then Newegg or NCIX after. Bought the wrong server heatsink from Amazon, spent 2 minutes in chat and printed a free shipping label for 100% refund which will get processed in 2 days. I don't deal with anyone else first besides Amazon, They just need to get a much better search for parts, their selection has been increasing steadily.

Yeah, guess I learned my lesson. It's just so tempting because they don't charge sales tax, which saved me like $100. But their customer service leaves a lot to be desired — I had to hound them pretty hard just to get a damn fan. I felt like a dick because my last couple emails were kinda rude, but they were giving me shitty generic customer service responses so I had no other choice.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Yeah, guess I learned my lesson. It's just so tempting because they don't charge sales tax, which saved me like $100. But their customer service leaves a lot to be desired — I had to hound them pretty hard just to get a damn fan. I felt like a dick because my last couple emails were kinda rude, but they were giving me shitty generic customer service responses so I had no other choice.
I know dude, I know. It's why they got a second order.
 

UrgentPS

Neo Member
What's the better option to cool a i7 3930K: Noctua NH-D14 or Corsair H100i? I'm reading very mixed opinions across different sites. I'd want to do a slight overclock (4.0-4.2) and I'll be using it for heavy duty video editing, special effects, etc. The PC will be on a lot and under heavy load, so I want to make sure I get good temps. Also, which case would be best suited for each cooling option? I've looked through the OP, but some extra help would be appreciated. For example, I don't really care about noise, as long as the case has very good airflow and cable management.

Thanks in advance!

PS. In case you guys need more specs to give good advice, this is the build I'm currently looking at:

ASUS P9X79 PRO
i7 3930K
Noctua NH-D14 SE2011??????
32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance LP DDR3-1600
Gigabyte 780 OC 3GB
Corsair 650D?????
Corsair AX760i
2x 256GB Samsung 840 PRO (raid0)
1x 500GB WD Black (scratch disk)
1x 2TB WD Black (data disk)
 

Leonsito

Member
What kind of grip do you use? Claw, grip, or hybrid? What kind of games do you generally play? Do you value comfort over control?

Mainly FPS, and I think I'm more of a claw when playing those games. When I use a mouse normally I'm more of an hybrid or palm, looking for confort mainly.

DPI isn't really a good rating in which to base quality after a certain point. It is just one of those things that companies advertise as a selling point since it is a big number. To give you the short answer, the later models of the g400 has the ADNS-S3095 sensor (early models had a different sensor), which is flawless. As in it does not have skipping, hardware acceleration, or snapping. The g500 uses the Avago ADNS-S9500, which has nondefeatable hardware acceleration. This is based mostly on memory and I haven't looked into what changes the newer "S" models of these mice have.

Now as I mentioned before, a flawless sensor isn't something that everyone needs or would notice. For example, I use a g700 which also use the Avago ADNS-S9500 sensor. I do not play competitive FPS games so do not require the complete lack of acceleration, while I do play a bunch of mmorpgs and other games with a lot of skills so the extra buttons are something that I do want. I am also not offering a recommendation to what mouse you should buy as I don't really know how you plan to use it or your needs. Just providing information to clarify the comment someone else made implying that a laser sensor is better then an optical one.

Thanks for all this information, I had no idea, I don't really like acceleration, but I thought it was more of a software configuration than something to do with the sensor itself.

I'll go ahead and recommend the G400S if you like the form factor. The sensor is perfect.

Yeah, I'm starting to prefer the G400S.

What about the non-S version of this mouses? The G400 seems like a really standard mouse, but the G500 has adjustable weights. It's just aesthetics differences?
 

Roland1979

Junior Member
Mainly FPS, and I think I'm more of a claw when playing those games. When I use a mouse normally I'm more of an hybrid or palm, looking for confort mainly.



Thanks for all this information, I had no idea, I don't really like acceleration, but I thought it was more of a software configuration than something to do with the sensor itself.



Yeah, I'm starting to prefer the G400S.

What about the non-S version of this mouses? The G400 seems like a really standard mouse, but the G500 has adjustable weights. It's just aesthetics differences?

G500 is a different mouse, not really comparable. The G400 is being replaced by the G400s. I believe they have the same sensor. The older models of G400 had a flaw, as mentioned before. But since they are no longer being sold you can safely get the G400 instead of the G400s for HALVE the rpice. The G400 will soon no longer being sold, so if you like that mouse (G400 and G400s) then I strongly recommend you shop around and get it for as low as possible (not Amazon last time I checked). Of course take shipping into consideration as well.
 

yatesl

Member
Heh, fucked up my PC then. Been messing about, swapping fan positions, taking out drive bays to keep it cool. Opened it up again before to check what ports I had available, and to move it to the other side of my desk. During this, I turned it on to see if it booted after swapping some cables, and it did. Turned it straight off.

Finished vacuuming my room, turned on the PC... "Please insert a boot drive." Bricks were shat. Loaded up BIOS, saw that my SSD wasn't being recognised. More bricks dropped. Swapped over some SATA and power cables, to make sure it wasn't those... Still wasn't being recognised (but my other 2 were, so it wasn't the cables). Thought that I may have damaged it somehow when vacuuming the dust screens on the fan because, hands up, I may have not bothered to actually take them out of the PC...

Looked online, first support topic on Crucial's website was "Why has my SSD disappeared from my PC?" Told me to leave it powered on for 20 minutes, then off for 30 seconds, as sometimes it freaks out if there's a sudden power loss. 20 minutes later, it's working fine.

I'll keep my lid closed for a while now...

Metro 2033 is just a badly optimised game. Brings most PCs to their knees. Fan wise I picked up some Arctic Cooling F12s and when coupled with low voltage adapters seem to do a good job. You'll go mad trying to decide on fans, there's so many good fucking options.
Cheers. Would it be worth having 2 fans on the front (with one on the back), or one on the front, one on the side (just under my graphics card), with one on the back? Or one on the front, one on the top, one on the back? I figured it's better to have 2 in 1 out, than 1 in 2 out.

And just because I was bored, here's some pictures of inside my case. Despite having the option to put all the cables behind the motherboard (which I mostly did), you can see that cable management still isn't my strong point.

http://youtu.be/9Td4_laNW2E
 

Ferr986

Member
So guys, I have decided to get a SSD.
Are the Crucial M500 good? I got those recommended in my local store.

I also have to decide if i want a 120 or 250 GB. I guess the only difference is in storage, right (theres no differences on durability and speeds)?

btw my board is SATA2.
 

knitoe

Member
So guys, I have decided to get a SSD.
Are the Crucial M500 good? I got those recommended in my local store.

I also have to decide if i want a 120 or 250 GB. I guess the only difference is in storage, right (theres no differences on durability and speeds)?

btw my board is SATA2.

With SSD, usually, the larger ones have faster write speeds and longer durability. It's the same with the M500s. If possible and prices are similar, go Samsung 830 / 840 Pro instead.
 

Ferr986

Member
With SSD, usually, the larger ones have faster write speeds and longer durability. It's the same with the M500s. If possible and prices are similar, go Samsung 830 / 840 Pro instead.

Thanks!

Well, I could get the 840, thing is that they didnt have it in stock, but they had the Crucials. Price was almost the same (slightly higher on the Samsungs although I think it was the non-Pro version).
 

Gurrry

Member
Old 300W PSU + iffy mobo both need to deliver that power. Could be completely out of spec voltages as well.

So youre saying that I need a new PSU? Or go trade this in for a new GPU?

Your power supply should have a 6 or 8 pin lead coming off of it for video card.

However. A low of prebuilts have shitty powersupplies that do not.

This is why we recommend against most brand name prebuilts. They are designed to be disposable not upgradeable.

Sorry man. This isn't the fault of pc gaming. This is the fault of a budget tower :(

I agree man. I bought the h8-1214 stock HP from best buy because I didnt have the time to do any research on building my own PC. Plus I dont know the first thing about any of this stuff. Im pretty sure that this particular card doesnt have a cable needed to connect to the PSU. Unless they left the cable out of the box?
 

Smokey

Member
The soundcard and headset recommendations are based upon this very thing. The ASUS Xonar cards give you surround via Dolby Headphone, Soundblaster with SBX.

The Audio Technica AD700s and AKG Q701s are about the best when it comes to soundstage and positional audio.

The Sennheiser 363Ds come with a USB DAC that gives you Dolby Headphone without the use of a soundcard.

*edit*

Also, to make this clear, almost all "Surround" or "5.1" headsets do virtualized surround with just two speakers. The number of headsets with multiple drivers in each ear are actually universally bad.

I'd like to add that there isn't a driver out for W8 yet. So you don't get to change the option from 2.1 to 5.1/7.1. Been in contact via email with Sennheiser about it, but a heads up if you've got W8. No issues with W7.
 

Coldsnap

Member
I guess I gaffed when calculating the air flow in my PC. I guessed that it would be -

Intake to exhaust is 151.4 CM vs 135.6CM. That's four SP120 on a front mounted H100i push/pull intake and two AF140 exhausting in the top back

But I guess if you have a front push/pull radiator setup as intake you only calculate two of the fans, because the two fans that are not pushing through the radiator can only intake air at their CFM. So I guess I can remedy this by putting an intake on the case exhuast that I was originally planning to leave open.
 

T.O.P

Banned
Ok gaf, bear it with me for a sec

my knowledge hardware-wise is practically zero, so be kind lol


i've been rockin this rig for three years with no problem whatsoever, but i've been thinking for a while about boosting my performance a bit

- ENERMAX 625W PRO 82+ EPR625AWT II
- WESTERN DIGITAL CAVIAR R3 1TB WD1002FBYS
- Asus P6T SE
- LG GH22NS50 RBBB 22x SATA bulk Black
- Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit IT OEM DVD
- INTEL Core i7-930 2,8GHz 8MB 4,8GT/sec Box SLBKP CPU 1366
- Cooler Master 690 II Advanced (RC-692-KKN2-GP)
- SAPPHIRE TOXIC HD5850 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E DUAL DVI-I HDMI [11162-05-40R]
- CORSAIR CMX6GX3M3A1333C9 6GB PC3-10666 CL9 240pin DIMM (DDR3-1333) Triple Channel Memory Retail Kit

especially because it will be hard to run current games at 1920x1080 with decent fps


soooo... my idea was about changing the video card with a GTX780, problem is that i'm totally lost about wich part i should change for the upgrade outside of that


tips? i have no idea where to start :/
 

kharma45

Member
Heh, fucked up my PC then. Been messing about, swapping fan positions, taking out drive bays to keep it cool. Opened it up again before to check what ports I had available, and to move it to the other side of my desk. During this, I turned it on to see if it booted after swapping some cables, and it did. Turned it straight off.

Finished vacuuming my room, turned on the PC... "Please insert a boot drive." Bricks were shat. Loaded up BIOS, saw that my SSD wasn't being recognised. More bricks dropped. Swapped over some SATA and power cables, to make sure it wasn't those... Still wasn't being recognised (but my other 2 were, so it wasn't the cables). Thought that I may have damaged it somehow when vacuuming the dust screens on the fan because, hands up, I may have not bothered to actually take them out of the PC...

Looked online, first support topic on Crucial's website was "Why has my SSD disappeared from my PC?" Told me to leave it powered on for 20 minutes, then off for 30 seconds, as sometimes it freaks out if there's a sudden power loss. 20 minutes later, it's working fine.

I'll keep my lid closed for a while now...


Cheers. Would it be worth having 2 fans on the front (with one on the back), or one on the front, one on the side (just under my graphics card), with one on the back? Or one on the front, one on the top, one on the back? I figured it's better to have 2 in 1 out, than 1 in 2 out.

And just because I was bored, here's some pictures of inside my case. Despite having the option to put all the cables behind the motherboard (which I mostly did), you can see that cable management still isn't my strong point.


http://youtu.be/9Td4_laNW2E

I don't know which I would do. I have two at the front, two at the top and one at the rear in my case and it seems to work OK. Two at the front for you sounds like it could work but someone with an R4 could likely advise better.

Ok gaf, bear it with me for a sec

my knowledge hardware-wise is practically zero, so be kind lol


i've been rockin this rig for three years with no problem whatsoever, but i've been thinking for a while about boosting my performance a bit



especially because it will be hard to run current games at 1920x1080 with decent fps


soooo... my idea was about changing the video card with a GTX780, problem is that i'm totally lost about wich part i should change for the upgrade outside of that


tips? i have no idea where to start :/

If you're getting a 780 overclock the nuts off that i7.
 

yatesl

Member
I don't know which I would do. I have two at the front, two at the top and one at the rear in my case and it seems to work OK. Two at the front for you sounds like it could work but someone with an R4 could likely advise better.
Cheers.

Bit of a tangent, but I'm having network problems - But I always do.

I have 2 PCs, and 2 Laptops, all on Windows 8. All connected to the same network. However, I'm having real trouble with them all, and always have done. Right now, I can't connect to Laptop A through the Windows network, by going to Network > Family-Laptop. I can only connect by typing \\192.168.1.64\Users\Public

However, on Laptop A, I can connect to PC A by going to Network > Family-PC.

Currently PC and Laptop B are turned off, although PC A can still see Laptop B in the explorer but can't connect. But sometimes, it pops up "Can't connect, check it etc etc", but then I try again and it works. Like, as I finished typing this (after about 10 minutes), I can now connect to the laptop through explorer...

PC A and Laptop A are both using Kaspersky, but with LAN set to trusted. PC B and Laptop B don't have anything.
 

tarheel91

Member
I guess I gaffed when calculating the air flow in my PC. I guessed that it would be -

Intake to exhaust is 151.4 CM vs 135.6CM. That's four SP120 on a front mounted H100i push/pull intake and two AF140 exhausting in the top back

But I guess if you have a front push/pull radiator setup as intake you only calculate two of the fans, because the two fans that are not pushing through the radiator can only intake air at their CFM. So I guess I can remedy this by putting an intake on the case exhuast that I was originally planning to leave open.

Are those supposed to be CFM? The actual airflow going into and out of a case is very complicated and can't be evaluated with just your fans' theoretical max CFM values.
 

Mikey

Neo Member
If I stream HD video from a game while also wanting to play that game at the same time, is 8GB of RAM enough? I know streaming is CPU intensive, but I have a good CPU.
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
The soundcard and headset recommendations are based upon this very thing. The ASUS Xonar cards give you surround via Dolby Headphone, Soundblaster with SBX.

The Audio Technica AD700s and AKG Q701s are about the best when it comes to soundstage and positional audio.

The Sennheiser 363Ds come with a USB DAC that gives you Dolby Headphone without the use of a soundcard.

*edit*

Also, to make this clear, almost all "Surround" or "5.1" headsets do virtualized surround with just two speakers. The number of headsets with multiple drivers in each ear are actually universally bad.

Ah - gotchya. Thanks! I knew that multi-driver headsets wouldn't compete on music with their low quality, but thought they might do well with games. Seems I'd best be served with a nice pair of headphones, then. I've always loved those AKGs - had my eye on them a few times; maybe now is the perfect time to splurge. That, plus a fancy SoundBlaster could do wonders.

Then I'd need a mic... time to go NewEgg hunting.
 

cw_sasuke

If all DLC came tied to $13 figurines, I'd consider all DLC to be free
Going for a budget gaming system - aka. an AMD system. Which socket is more future proof or will at least get the next batch of AMD CPUs. The FM2 or AM3 boards ? Thinking about getting a FX 6300 or a A10 6800.
 
Anyone have a link to a pcpartspicker build, looking to be about 1k US, I've tried a few builds myself but I run high. End up in the 1300 range, so, looking to cram as much as I can into that sweet spot 1k build.
 

Addnan

Member
Going for a budget gaming system - aka. an AMD system. Which socket is more future proof or will at least get the next batch of AMD CPUs. The FM2 or AM3 boards ? Thinking about getting a FX 6300 or a A10 6800.

Read the OP. What's your budget? You can still build an Intel rig around a budget.
 

cw_sasuke

If all DLC came tied to $13 figurines, I'd consider all DLC to be free
Read the OP. What's your budget? You can still build an Intel rig around a budget.

And why excatly do you think i havent read the OP ? I own the other components ready and i am debating between these two CPUs, question is which socket will be probably supported longer with upcoming AMD processors...FM2 or AM3+ ?
 

mkenyon

Banned
And why excatly do you think i havent read the OP ? I own the other components ready and i am debating between these two CPUs, question is which socket will be probably supported longer with upcoming AMD processors...FM2 or AM3+ ?
Neither. Both are bad for gaming as well due to the very low per-thread performance.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom