Yeah. I just bought a 770 and that's mainly because of the Shadowplay feature that's about to be released.
Otherwise it would have been more difficult to choose between the two.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Yeah. I just bought a 770 and that's mainly because of the Shadowplay feature that's about to be released.
Otherwise it would have been more difficult to choose between the two.
So I just read this in the Gaming Laptop thread:
So I'll be returning once I've read more of the OP and actually understand what I'm getting myself into. For now I'm just overwhelmed by choice and a lot of expert/niche knowledge. Gotta study.
Not surprising, but it definitely encouraged me to look into building a desktop PC instead (and then getting a light/cheap/efficient laptop soon after).
So I'll be returning once I've read more of the OP and actually understand what I'm getting myself into. For now I'm just overwhelmed by choice and a lot of expert/niche knowledge. Gotta study.
I already killed two 24 Pin cables. The Seasonic ones with the double wires are baffling to me.
I'm not sure if I shared here, but my 760i blew so hard it sounded like a gun shot. Sparks, lots of smoke, and even threw the breaker. This is while I was filling my loop.
So, got rid of that D5, put in a new D5 with a stand-in AX660. All is well, up and running for 36 hours. Get to the LAN, and start the OC process. Put 1.35V to the chip, 37 multi, 125 strap.
Constant boot loops, with smoke then pouring out of my CPU socket area. Dead PC.
It looked so fucking good. I didn't even get a picture of it.
Needless to say, now have PSU PTSD.
Um, I do.That was incredibly well put together. In 30 seconds you just explained what two hours of trying to read product listings and what not could not.
Do you have a steam wishlist?
I love GAF.That was incredibly well put together. In 30 seconds you just explained what two hours of trying to read product listings and what not could not.
Do you have a steam wishlist?
outunderthestars
Banned
Done!
Me too. For all of the stupidity (mine included) there is an amazing community of people on here who are willing to help each other out!
I'm still fishing for a few more opinions before I pull the trigger. Thanks GAF!
Looks fine if you want to go with Haswell.
As for graphics you can't go wrong with either, the 760 is a mid range card with great performance. The 770 is considered more high end and will perform for longer, but the price difference is quite big. You will have to see if the performance to price is worth it for you. I have the 770 and love it.
It's not the FX 4300 that I think is worth a look though, it's the FX 6300.
The thing about objective tests is that we don't need an opinion on interpreting results, they speak for themselves.
Even with a Titan under full load it should still be able to cope fine at 550w.
TDP on the 6300 is the same as the i5 750, 95w. If a 212 can cool an i5 750 it has no problem with a 95w FX CPU. For the 83xx series they don't turn into 225-275W TDP CPUs when overclocked. They're still just 125w TDP and a 212 is still fine for them.
Whilst I appreciate the Tech Report stuff you posted on games from 2011 with more modern games the 6350 I'd generally argue is a decent buy over an i3 3220. It is a 0.4 GHz increase on the 6300, easily an achievable overclock without very much hassle. Look at the stuff put out by TR for it. And whilst yes it is empirical evidence as you say it's validity can be questioned as no one else is doing CPU frame ratings. I believe TR's to be correct but that cannot be proved until it is peer reviewed by other sites.
I'm not saying that AMD is the stuff to go for. I think that against the i3 going in to the future the 6350 could well be a decent buy. As for the 8320 you quoted me on, it's usually around $70 cheaper than a 3570K and for what it offers it is not a bad CPU by any means if you can't afford to go for an i5. So yeah it's only really the 6300 I would argue should be considered, and again it'll be contextual. Big into SC2? Then go for Intel all the way even for the i3.
I fully get on here a lot of people are going to listen to our advice, but I'm not exactly going out there telling everyone not to buy Intel and go AMD instead, it's very rare that I'd suggest anything other than an Intel build in reality.
Is the MSI G45 Gaming available with you? How is it's pricing relative to the Gigabyte? I wouldn't bother with the 840 Pro, go for a higher capacity 840 250GB instead. GPU wise it's a hard call, I'm a tight git and would side with the 760 as I think the 7970 edges it up against the 770 ever so slightly. Still, you'll be more than pleased with either card.
SixStringPsycho
Member
Check motherboard model and if its upgradeable. Judging by the specs I think it cant be taken for more than 8Gb of RAM. Only good things that you can recycle are the cpu and hdd. That gpu and vram is bad. Memory ram is enough for games.
My advise, check each of those components online and how much they cost used or new and judge for yourself
yeap the MSI is available to me as well with negligible price difference. ANy reason you recommed that over the GB one?
Personally I use gigabyte cause I like the tech inside Ultradurable 5 and all that crap, and ever since iI switched to LGA775 5 years ago, it's been great board after great board. Hence my bias!
**EDIT: just looked at the website for the MSI board. SWEET PIECE OF KIT. great features. I think I might make the switch for the first time in 5 years.
I'm worried about the non pro, because I have read about the less than stellar read and write performance and the possibility of 3-4 year lifespan with light work thanks to TLC NAND. I currently use the pro, one for my laptop one for my desktop and they are solid SSDs. I would love to save on the non-pro, but I think the risk might be more than I'll be willing to take.
Let me know what you think. Thanks mate!
memecomplex
Member
Good lord man, glad you're ok!
mkenyon,
I remember sometime ago you talking about the i7 3820 and overclocking of it, well it turns out that I am kind of thinking I might want to go from a 2500K and Asrock P67 to a i7 3820.
But I need a good motherboard that supports VT-D, has good BLCK overclocking and does not have a shitty Marvell SATA controller (because they are defective and fuck up when VT-D is on) or at least one that can be turned off.
Thinking of maybe the MSI x79 GD45.
I remember sometime ago you talking about the i7 3820 and overclocking of it, well it turns out that I am kind of thinking I might want to go from a 2500K and Asrock P67 to a i7 3820.
But I need a good motherboard that supports VT-D, has good BLCK overclocking and does not have a shitty Marvell SATA controller (because they are defective and fuck up when VT-D is on) or at least one that can be turned off.
Thinking of maybe the MSI x79 GD45.
Ugh. Wish I had the $330 to buy this and flip it. http://winnipeg.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAd?AdId=504487114
Do you have a good amount of free space left on the SSD? My Intel X25-M used to get rather sluggish with less than a few GB on the drive. Barring that, might want to try updating firmware on it if possible.
There was a recall of that particular SSD too: http://www.engadget.com/2011/06/08/corsair-recalls-its-120gb-force-3-ssd-due-to-stability-issues/
Read through that April 2013 guide and I understand much, much more now. Awesome OP, Btw. Read it all, though a lot is still out of my element.
So whoever can help...
Your Current Specs: Crappy laptop
Budget: $800-$1200, Canada
Main Use: Heavy gaming
Monitor Resolution: New monitor (undecided). Would like to play at very high resolution on monitor, plus 1080p on HDTV.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: AAA games for foreseeable future. 30fps is acceptable
Looking to reuse any parts?: None
When will you build?: Whenever, but within 2 months
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe. Not sure what other parts/expenses are required in order to do so.
Right now I like Hazaro's 'Excellent' build, though maybe might get a higher end graphics card. I don't think i7 is necessary given the apparently small benefits over a powerful i5, but maybe it'll be necessary in a year's time?
So whoever can help...
Your Current Specs: Crappy laptop
Budget: $800-$1200, Canada
Main Use: Heavy gaming
Monitor Resolution: New monitor (undecided). Would like to play at very high resolution on monitor, plus 1080p on HDTV.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: AAA games for foreseeable future. 30fps is acceptable
Looking to reuse any parts?: None
When will you build?: Whenever, but within 2 months
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe. Not sure what other parts/expenses are required in order to do so.
Right now I like Hazaro's 'Excellent' build, though maybe might get a higher end graphics card. I don't think i7 is necessary given the apparently small benefits over a powerful i5, but maybe it'll be necessary in a year's time?
Where in Canada are you?
Yep the excellent build is great and would surely get you 30fps for a few years. Though if you would take 30 after getting used to 60 plus is another matter
Some parts are still a pain in the ass to find at a reasonable price here. But go with the excellent i5 with a 7704gig and you should be set
Yep the excellent build is great and would surely get you 30fps for a few years. Though if you would take 30 after getting used to 60 plus is another matter
Some parts are still a pain in the ass to find at a reasonable price here. But go with the excellent i5 with a 7704gig and you should be set
roosters93
Member
Question on fan orientation:
Going to set up my PC today and was just wondering on how I should set up my fans.
I have 2 stock bit fenix 120mm fans (apparently they're quiet but don't perform that great so I may replace them in the future and get more too), hyper212 evo cpu cooler 120mm fan and my gpu xfx7970 is open air.
So seeing that I've only got 2 case fans atm what's best?
Going by mkenyon's build guide which also features an open air gpu cooler, it may be best to make the stock fans (which are currently set up traditionally one front intake, one back exhaust) both intakes one at the front and back. Thing is I don't have enough fans to put an exhaust on top, would opening the top grill get rid of enough hot air?
Also read "all other things being equal, it’s better to get hot air out of your case than to pump cool air in, particularly when it comes to CPU cooling." so maybe it would not be wise.
Little bit lost at the moment. Considering just leaving it as is, set up 212evox pulling air to the back and then buying more case fans soon.
Note: my case doesn't have spots for side fans
Going to set up my PC today and was just wondering on how I should set up my fans.
I have 2 stock bit fenix 120mm fans (apparently they're quiet but don't perform that great so I may replace them in the future and get more too), hyper212 evo cpu cooler 120mm fan and my gpu xfx7970 is open air.
So seeing that I've only got 2 case fans atm what's best?
Going by mkenyon's build guide which also features an open air gpu cooler, it may be best to make the stock fans (which are currently set up traditionally one front intake, one back exhaust) both intakes one at the front and back. Thing is I don't have enough fans to put an exhaust on top, would opening the top grill get rid of enough hot air?
Also read "all other things being equal, it’s better to get hot air out of your case than to pump cool air in, particularly when it comes to CPU cooling." so maybe it would not be wise.
Little bit lost at the moment. Considering just leaving it as is, set up 212evox pulling air to the back and then buying more case fans soon.
Note: my case doesn't have spots for side fans
PC gaming in a nutshell, no? I don't think I'm willing to spend enough to theoretically future-proof my machine. Would I be able to upgrade one component in 2 year's time to keep up or would I need to probably plunk down another $1000 since everything has to be balanced?Where in Canada are you?
Yep the excellent build is great and would surely get you 30fps for a few years. Though if you would take 30 after getting used to 60 plus is another matter
Some parts are still a pain in the ass to find at a reasonable price here. But go with the excellent i5 with a 7704gig and you should be set
And what's a 7704gig? Still weak on the terminology
Thx for the reply, kennah
Back on a Prodigy. 2500K, 7970 Lightning, and NuForce uDAC. Need to get the UP7 system up and running, because after using that SoundBlaster ZxR, it's hard to want to use anything else. Paired with the AKG Q701s, it really is a gamechanger for me. Seems like ITX will need to continue to be a LAN/secondary rig for the future. mATX for me.
More power = more cooling. In fact, you can measure the cooling power any heatsink has most accurately in watts dissipated.
Could be that I'm much more MP game focused than big pretty graphic SP game focused. The Intel chips are such a noticeable improvement that it's so hard to recommend anything else.
I think we're on the same page. Though, TDP might not mean what you think it means:
More power = more cooling. In fact, you can measure the cooling power any heatsink has most accurately in watts dissipated.
Could be that I'm much more MP game focused than big pretty graphic SP game focused. The Intel chips are such a noticeable improvement that it's so hard to recommend anything else.
It's a 770 4 gig because I'm on my phone
No don't spend an extra thousand. You don't ever ever want to "future proof" your better bet is to always stay one step behind. Buy midrange parts and upgrade every year or two instead of buying high end once. There are lots of reasons to do this.
1 resale. If you frequently upgrade then you can sell your parts while they are still worth something. Spend $250 on a video card now and sell it for $125 in a year and buy another $250 card (that'll be as fast as the one that was $500).
2. . Lack of attachment. When you drop a buttload of money on something you aren't going to get rid of it easily. This will make you very unhappy when you HAVE to upgrade. Instead learn to treat these things as 'disposable' and go into it knowing that it will be replaced. And soon
3. The ability to quickly change. You won't be tied to arcane features that are only available on your particular thing. See Thermal Armour.
4. Buy last year's top end for cheap. Your best bet is to find a used 2500k or 3570k on a good motherboard with a 670 or 680. These can all be had for much cheaper than their haswell and 700 series counterparts while being JUST AS FAST. Computing is at a weird spot right now where we have had three generations in a row that are essentially the same speed.
That all said. Spend the 900-1200 on the excellent build. It will likely keep you happy and with overclocking have the ability to grow with you for a couple years.
No don't spend an extra thousand. You don't ever ever want to "future proof" your better bet is to always stay one step behind. Buy midrange parts and upgrade every year or two instead of buying high end once. There are lots of reasons to do this.
1 resale. If you frequently upgrade then you can sell your parts while they are still worth something. Spend $250 on a video card now and sell it for $125 in a year and buy another $250 card (that'll be as fast as the one that was $500).
2. . Lack of attachment. When you drop a buttload of money on something you aren't going to get rid of it easily. This will make you very unhappy when you HAVE to upgrade. Instead learn to treat these things as 'disposable' and go into it knowing that it will be replaced. And soon
3. The ability to quickly change. You won't be tied to arcane features that are only available on your particular thing. See Thermal Armour.
4. Buy last year's top end for cheap. Your best bet is to find a used 2500k or 3570k on a good motherboard with a 670 or 680. These can all be had for much cheaper than their haswell and 700 series counterparts while being JUST AS FAST. Computing is at a weird spot right now where we have had three generations in a row that are essentially the same speed.
That all said. Spend the 900-1200 on the excellent build. It will likely keep you happy and with overclocking have the ability to grow with you for a couple years.
15 gigs of free space
mhh, according to that link the series with recalls is CSSD-F120GB3-BK
mine is CSSD-F120GB3A-BK
I assume im good then?
Yeah I have the same ones, really annoying and had to get creative with the heatshrink on it. Not technically "individually" heatshrinked on one side.
=(
Got a i7-930 and a P6X58D-Premium that needs a home if you can deal with blue in your build.
memecomplex
Member
It's a 770 4 gig because I'm on my phone
No don't spend an extra thousand. You don't ever ever want to "future proof" your better bet is to always stay one step behind. Buy midrange parts and upgrade every year or two instead of buying high end once. There are lots of reasons to do this.
1 resale. If you frequently upgrade then you can sell your parts while they are still worth something. Spend $250 on a video card now and sell it for $125 in a year and buy another $250 card (that'll be as fast as the one that was $500).
2. . Lack of attachment. When you drop a buttload of money on something you aren't going to get rid of it easily. This will make you very unhappy when you HAVE to upgrade. Instead learn to treat these things as 'disposable' and go into it knowing that it will be replaced. And soon
3. The ability to quickly change. You won't be tied to arcane features that are only available on your particular thing. See Thermal Armour.
4. Buy last year's top end for cheap. Your best bet is to find a used 2500k or 3570k on a good motherboard with a 670 or 680. These can all be had for much cheaper than their haswell and 700 series counterparts while being JUST AS FAST. Computing is at a weird spot right now where we have had three generations in a row that are essentially the same speed.
That all said. Spend the 900-1200 on the excellent build. It will likely keep you happy and with overclocking have the ability to grow with you for a couple years.
Stop making sense!
In other news, my Case Labs S3 has arrived.
It is godly. That is all.
MvmntInGrn
Member
Gaf I've run into an issue that I need advice with.
I'm getting freezing in games all of a sudden. I tried GTAIV(steam) earlier and that is when I noticed it first. I had adjusted some setting in Inspector for the game and undid them but it didn't help.
Then I tried The Saboteur(origin) a few moments ago and got the same kind of lockup (three times in a row). In both cases (GTA and The Saboteur), strangely, it happens right as I'm about to collide with something in the environment (be it a car or pedestrian) but not necessarily the first time.
I recently updated my video drivers so I tried rolling them back for The Saboteur but it didn't help.
The audio keeps playing normally and undistorted but the game freezes. I cannot cancel the process in any way from the task manager. I can't even force a shut down/restart. I have to manually shut off the computer or log off.
GTX 670 overclocked/i7-3770k @4.8
I had some freezing issues a few weeks ago with Serious Sam 3 but played through Episodes From Liberty City without much issue. Maybe my graphics card overclock is unstable?
EDIT: Also if I log off to regain control I am unable to shut down/restart the computer normally. When I try to do so it gets stuck at "shutting down....". If I shut it off manually, turn it back on, then shutdown it shuts down properly.
I'm getting freezing in games all of a sudden. I tried GTAIV(steam) earlier and that is when I noticed it first. I had adjusted some setting in Inspector for the game and undid them but it didn't help.
Then I tried The Saboteur(origin) a few moments ago and got the same kind of lockup (three times in a row). In both cases (GTA and The Saboteur), strangely, it happens right as I'm about to collide with something in the environment (be it a car or pedestrian) but not necessarily the first time.
I recently updated my video drivers so I tried rolling them back for The Saboteur but it didn't help.
The audio keeps playing normally and undistorted but the game freezes. I cannot cancel the process in any way from the task manager. I can't even force a shut down/restart. I have to manually shut off the computer or log off.
GTX 670 overclocked/i7-3770k @4.8
I had some freezing issues a few weeks ago with Serious Sam 3 but played through Episodes From Liberty City without much issue. Maybe my graphics card overclock is unstable?
EDIT: Also if I log off to regain control I am unable to shut down/restart the computer normally. When I try to do so it gets stuck at "shutting down....". If I shut it off manually, turn it back on, then shutdown it shuts down properly.
Hey guys this is my first post here, so, if anyone can help me i'll be very thankful.
With my specs, what i have to upgrade to play games like BF4 in Ultra Quality at 40~60fps?
Your Current Specs: i5 2500k / 8GB DDR3 Corsair Vengeance / Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3 / EVGA GTX 560ti / Akasa 550w / Akasa Cavalry / Intel SSD 520 Series 240GB
Budget: $500~$700- USA
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to run well: Battlefield 4 in Ultra Quality @ 40~60 fps
Srry for my bad english, greetings from Brazil.
With my specs, what i have to upgrade to play games like BF4 in Ultra Quality at 40~60fps?
Your Current Specs: i5 2500k / 8GB DDR3 Corsair Vengeance / Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3 / EVGA GTX 560ti / Akasa 550w / Akasa Cavalry / Intel SSD 520 Series 240GB
Budget: $500~$700- USA
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to run well: Battlefield 4 in Ultra Quality @ 40~60 fps
Srry for my bad english, greetings from Brazil.
It has been said before, but as long as the system requirements for battlefield 4 arent in the open we cant say for sure. Im positive your cpu and ram are still good enough. I would buy a gpu when the game comes out. I believe AMD will do a bundle with BF4 and a card, so might wait for that.
Awesome, lots I wouldn't have thought of...It's a 770 4 gig because I'm on my phone
No don't spend an extra thousand. You don't ever ever want to "future proof" your better bet is to always stay one step behind. Buy midrange parts and upgrade every year or two instead of buying high end once. There are lots of reasons to do this.
1 resale. If you frequently upgrade then you can sell your parts while they are still worth something. Spend $250 on a video card now and sell it for $125 in a year and buy another $250 card (that'll be as fast as the one that was $500).
2. . Lack of attachment. When you drop a buttload of money on something you aren't going to get rid of it easily. This will make you very unhappy when you HAVE to upgrade. Instead learn to treat these things as 'disposable' and go into it knowing that it will be replaced. And soon
3. The ability to quickly change. You won't be tied to arcane features that are only available on your particular thing. See Thermal Armour.
4. Buy last year's top end for cheap. Your best bet is to find a used 2500k or 3570k on a good motherboard with a 670 or 680. These can all be had for much cheaper than their haswell and 700 series counterparts while being JUST AS FAST. Computing is at a weird spot right now where we have had three generations in a row that are essentially the same speed.
That all said. Spend the 900-1200 on the excellent build. It will likely keep you happy and with overclocking have the ability to grow with you for a couple years.
You mention buying a used 3570k ("on a good motherboard with a 670 or 680" -- why not a 770, which you suggested before?). Where can I find something like that?
Btw, I checked the prices for the 'Excellent' parts (3570k + 770 4gb) at NCIX/Amazon/MemoryExpress/Newegg and Newegg ended up with the best bundled price at about $1400 after shipping and taxes. More than I expected, but not necessarily more than I'm willing to pay. Any suggestions on bringing the price down at this point?
We don't really know what sort of system will be needed to max out BF4 yet since its not out yet. The only thing I would upgrade from your existing PC is the graphics card. Overclock your processor and for that kind of budget you will be able to get a big graphics card, GTX 780. I am not sure about that power supply. Can you give a link to it. There are quite a few 550W from that brand
Thanks for u reply! I'm gonna wait for this bundle.
MvmntInGrn
Member
Fixed my problem but figure it is worth a PSA for those who don't know.
MotionJoy (Dualshock 3 Driver/manager for PC) recognizes the official Xbox 360 pad and will cause games to freeze.
Uninstall motionjoy as outlined here and install Microsofts official 360 controller drivers. Googling brought me here where I found someone in the same situation.
I thought it was funny that when I hooked up my 360 controller the lights on the front kept flashing continuously. Didn't think it could cause problems like this though.Now it displays player 1 LED only and isn't crashing my games.
Should have remembered that with PCs new hardware, even just a USB controller, can cause as much havoc as any software/os side issue.
MotionJoy (Dualshock 3 Driver/manager for PC) recognizes the official Xbox 360 pad and will cause games to freeze.
Uninstall motionjoy as outlined here and install Microsofts official 360 controller drivers. Googling brought me here where I found someone in the same situation.
I thought it was funny that when I hooked up my 360 controller the lights on the front kept flashing continuously. Didn't think it could cause problems like this though.Now it displays player 1 LED only and isn't crashing my games.
Should have remembered that with PCs new hardware, even just a USB controller, can cause as much havoc as any software/os side issue.
You'll not go wrong with either board, but the MSI looks better (subjective obv) and has more power phases for OCing. Big comparison of all the Z87 boards here, I'll link as it is huge
http://i5.minus.com/id5ca5kg34Ey1.png
Life span isn't an issue for the 250GB non-Pro http://uk.hardware.info/reviews/417...-with-final-conclusion-final-update-20-6-2013
It's imo fast enough in the real world but it's your call!
What are the differences between the ASUS P8Z77-V LK and the MSI Z77 MPower? I would just go with the P8Z77 since it's significantly cheaper and I don't expect much difference, but the Z77 MPower is on sale at NCIX.ca so I'm considering it.
I'm really only beginning to understand the subtleties of motherboards.
Newegg.com comparison of specs -- I see some differences, but I'm not sure what's important and what isn't.
I'm really only beginning to understand the subtleties of motherboards.
Newegg.com comparison of specs -- I see some differences, but I'm not sure what's important and what isn't.
My bad, it's 500w, and the model is: AK-P050FG7. I bought this ps a long time ago.
So, im gonna wait for a 760ti or something...
Moral Panic
Member
My GTX 770 4GB came. Should I uninstall my current GPU drivers first?
Depends. If they're 324.09 or 326.01, the 770 will work immediately. If not, yea, uninstall, switch off, install card, switch on, install drivers.
I have a z87 plus with a 4770k coming to me in the next days and was wondering if anyone here with a compatible asus z87 motherboard tried out the 4-way optimization thing?
It seems to be an interesting and fast way to fine tune the pc and overclock the cpu. I know that automatic overclocking is mostly frowned upon but this one seems to be doing a decent job as far as the videos on youtube indicate.
It seems to be an interesting and fast way to fine tune the pc and overclock the cpu. I know that automatic overclocking is mostly frowned upon but this one seems to be doing a decent job as far as the videos on youtube indicate.
minasodaboy
Member
FWIW I just got done playing through Tomb Raider with nearly everything on Ultra (no TressFX) on an 3770k and 660 2GB and was averaging 45-60 fps in the benchmark.
So I would have to think a 760 would be a great buy to keep costs lower.
Also thanks again to everyone here for the help with my rig. It is still running awesome and I couldn't be happier with it.
Lots of places to buy used gear. This thread, the buy sell trade thread, overclock.net classifieds, kijiji.ca, et cetera.
Canada sucks for prices. We don't have microcenter deals that easily chop $100 or more off the price of mobo and cpu.
The reason I suggest a used 670 or 680 is that if you can find a good deal they are amazing price to performance. A 760 is basically a slower 670 and a 770 is a slightly faster 680. Their bioses are compatible! (With a little work).
I'll put together a build for you later today to try and bring that down a little.
So I have all my computer parts from my Antec Three Hundred into a Fractal R4. It may have took like eight hours last night, between frantically thinking I didn't actually mount the motherboard right to it actually being I forgot to plug in one little small thing (and not the power switch).
Holy shit, I can't even hear it at all and it's right below me. I think I'd have to turn up my fans to max or something on my 460s to hear this.
Holy shit, I can't even hear it at all and it's right below me. I think I'd have to turn up my fans to max or something on my 460s to hear this.
There won't be a 760 Ti.
I have a z87 pro and used the 4-way optimization it OC my CPU to 4.6 but after using prime95 for less than an hour my pc crashed. so I decreased it to around 4.2 but after restarting my Pc it went back to 4.6. so I suggest you don't.
roosters93
Member
haha thanks. I ended up taking your advice on worrying.
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