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[kharma45]

What do you guys think about this build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/NImD

DON'T CARE FOR PRICE

I've never built a PC before I don't mind to pay a lot and I would just like to know if all of this would make for something great that i wouldn't need to update for BF4 or the next Witcher.

Change that mobo to the MSI GD55 or the Asus one that ends in Lk. Swap the PSU to the Seasonic G550, $80 with Amazon or the XFX fully modular Gold 750w is $90 last time i looked at it on PCPartPicker.

 

[TheSeks]

Windows 7 is but since you care about future proofing 8 is better. Its quicker, more secure and will get DX 11.2 which Windows 7 wont. 8.1 looks to be a great update for it and you don't have to deal with the new Start if you don't want to, although i do find it to be pretty good.

Yeah i concur Physx isn't needed but if you go for an upper midrange card the 760 is the best bang for buck. i5 will be worth it in the long run if you can afford it, 4 physical cores and you should be able to overclock it to 4.2-4.5 GHz easy enough and get even more performance and longevity out of it.

Eh, I'll cross the Win8 bridge when it comes down to it. If BF4 requires it, I'll breakdown and get an upgrade. If I can avoid Metro for as long as I can, I'll go that route even if it isn't the "smart" future-proof route.

I went with This as you gave me and it was $100 more than that list price but whatever. I bought it and am now waiting for them to ship the parts to me. I hate waiting. :/

 

[fbgamer]

Change that mobo to the MSI GD55 or the Asus one that ends in Lk. Swap the PSU to the Seasonic G550, $80 with Amazon or the XFX fully modular Gold 750w is $90 last time i looked at it on PCPartPicker.

Asus P8Z77-V LK for mobo?

so what do you think of the graphics card?

 

[HammerOfThor]

Are you sure you saved BIOS settings? Your clock frequency suggests you did not overclock. When all cores are used turbo is going to go to about 3.6 GHz.

If you overclocked and set 42 for all core, a single core in use should rail a constant 4.2 GHz.

The 800 MHz idle is expected I think. It's the under load behavior that screams stock behavior. Only your voltage seems to be higher than stock.

With most motherboards these days you only need to set the Core voltage to something like 1.22 V and try 4.3 GHz. If it boots and is stable, you can tinker with lower voltages. If it isn't stable, try up to about 1.275 V. That's the most you can keep cool without delidding Haswell because it's thermal design is shit. If you cannot get stable there, then try 4.2 GHz. I don't think any CPU would be unable to reach 4.2 GHz but Haswell might be that bad.

So I gave this a shot and everything is still running fine(4.3 GHz w/ 1.21V).

CPUZ still keeps somewhere between 3.6-3.8, and every now and then jumps up to 4.3 while running Prime95.

I did all the altering the BIOS, but decided to download MSI Extreme Tuning since I can take screens easier.

Here is what I have right now. Does is seem correct?

 

[Mad Max]

So I gave this a shot and everything is still running fine(4.3 GHz w/ 1.21V).

CPUZ still keeps somewhere between 3.6-3.8, and every now and then jumps up to 4.3 while running Prime95.

I did all the altering the BIOS, but decided to download MSI Extreme Tuning since I can take screens easier.

Here is what I have right now. Does is seem correct?

Try disabling turbo boost.

 

[teh_pwn]

If it goes to 4.3 GHz under load, then it's fine. I'm not sure what minimum turbo boost is about. Your system is doing something that I haven't seen before. It may be fine, I don't know.

 

[HammerOfThor]

Try disabling turbo boost.

If i disable turbo boost I can't go above 3.4GHz

With that said, everything is running stable, so I guess my OC is all good. I just thought it was weird that my core speeds fluctuates over such a broad range. At leas my voltage is at a steady 1.209 now.

 

[Half and half]

What do you guys think about this?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1j8uw

My goal is to use this in my living room instead of a next gen console. It'll also be a general media center as well. Maybe some some small RAM and graphics card updates in the upcoming years, but nothing significant as it looks like it'll be cramped in there.

edit:
Heat sink comes with 2 of these:

http://www.blacknoise.com/en/product...lent_Pro_120mm

So, the price listed on my build is not accurate.

 

[M3z_]

Got my 3960x stable @ 4.6ghz 1.27 volts. Doesn't crack 70C after 4 hours of prime on a summers day. It's weird though adding voltage past 1.30 volts actaully makes things less stable. System will shutoff within a couple minutes of prime @ 1.35 volts and at 1.4 volts instant reboot upon starting of prime. Seems weird, from all the voltages I've seen on other peoples 3960x/3930k's I thought these things needed 1.35 volts or higher to achieve good overclocks. It's like I have a super high ASIC rating or something.

 

[kennah]

How do RMAs usually work with older hardware? I have a MSI GTX 560 Twin FROZR that just had a fan die. If it's going to cost me shipping both ways and repair fees I might just trash it.

Usually you only pay the outgoing shipping and if your card is under warranty you never pay repair fees.

Also. RMAing old cards can sometimes be awesome because sometimes if you are RMAing a discontinued card they send a more current one.

NEED AN OPINION

http://winnipeg.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and...Prodigy-Water-cooling-loop-W0QQAdIdZ505871846

Good deal?

Black Bitfenix Prodigy with a 240mm swifttech radiator, P500 Thermal take pump, Apogee cpu block, swftech reservoir and random 450w psu for $190.

 

[kharma45]

Eh, I'll cross the Win8 bridge when it comes down to it. If BF4 requires it, I'll breakdown and get an upgrade. If I can avoid Metro for as long as I can, I'll go that route even if it isn't the "smart" future-proof route.

I went with This as you gave me and it was $100 more than that list price but whatever. I bought it and am now waiting for them to ship the parts to me. I hate waiting. :/

$100 more? That's an oddly large jump from when I put that together :\

Asus P8Z77-V LK for mobo?

so what do you think of the graphics card?

That's the one. As for the GPU it's a great one, 760 might just about edge it for me though overall as the Never Settle bundle seems to have dried up.

What do you guys think about this?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1j8uw

My goal is to use this in my living room instead of a next gen console. It'll also be a general media center as well. Maybe some some small RAM and graphics card updates in the upcoming years, but nothing significant as it looks like it'll be cramped in there.

I'd go for the 250GB 840 over the 128GB 840 Pro. The standard one is fast enough, plenty durable and you (obviously) get a lot more space. That RAM is also mighty expensive next to something like this which I'd get instead, save your cash http://www.outletpc.com/yd4622-8gb-...rucial+-+Memory (RAM) > Desktop - DDR3 Memory

Swap the 770 to the one with the ACX cooler too http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130921

Does that heatsink not come with a fan? For that sort of money too you could get a Corsair H60 or save cash and get a Hyper 212.

 

[mandiller]

Hey PC-GAF, I've got a big problem I'm hoping someone can help me with.

I've just come back from a month abroad during which time I've had my desktop computer unplugged. I'm back now and I've plugged it back in and switched the power supply switch to on but the computer won't start anymore when I hit the power button. Inside the case the standby power light for the power supply is on, and there is a green light on the motherboard, but there's no reaction when I try and turn the PC on. No fans move, there are no sounds, just dead.

Any ideas how to fix this and what the problem could be? My computer was working perfectly fine when I left and has been unplugged the whole time. It's not a super old computer. I'd say a year and a half old.

 

[TheD]

Hey PC-GAF, I've got a big problem I'm hoping someone can help me with.

I've just come back from a month abroad during which time I've had my desktop computer unplugged. I'm back now and I've plugged it back in and switched the power supply switch to on but the computer won't start anymore when I hit the power button. Inside the case the standby power light for the power supply is on, and there is a green light on the motherboard, but there's no reaction when I try and turn the PC on. No fans move, there are no sounds, just dead.

Any ideas how to fix this and what the problem could be? My computer was working perfectly fine when I left and has been unplugged the whole time. It's not a super old computer. I'd say a year and a half old.

The plug that runs from the front powerswitch might of fallen out?

 

[TheSeks]

$100 more? That's an oddly large jump from when I put that together :\

Yeah, shipping and everything made it $890. About $100 more than what was listed. Really weird.

 

[Majeh]

Hey PC-GAF, I've got a big problem I'm hoping someone can help me with.

I've just come back from a month abroad during which time I've had my desktop computer unplugged. I'm back now and I've plugged it back in and switched the power supply switch to on but the computer won't start anymore when I hit the power button. Inside the case the standby power light for the power supply is on, and there is a green light on the motherboard, but there's no reaction when I try and turn the PC on. No fans move, there are no sounds, just dead.

Any ideas how to fix this and what the problem could be? My computer was working perfectly fine when I left and has been unplugged the whole time. It's not a super old computer. I'd say a year and a half old.

Could be remembering wrong, but couldn't a dead cmos battery do that?

 

[ShizWhiz]

Hey GAF, this is my first build and I don't really have a great idea about what I'm doing, if anyone could take a look at this and tell me if it's good or not, I'd appreciate it immensely.

http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/1jbQF

Thanks!

 

[kennah]

Hey GAF, this is my first build and I don't really have a great idea about what I'm doing, if anyone could take a look at this and tell me if it's good or not, I'd appreciate it immensely.

http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/1jbQF

Thanks!

Get the K version of your cpu, low profile ram, an aftermarket cpu fan and the z77 version of that board

But yeah. Good build

 

[kharma45]

Yeah, shipping and everything made it $890. About $100 more than what was listed. Really weird.

I had presumed places like Newegg and Amazon all did free shipping across the US. Still time to change it I guess if you want?

Hey GAF, this is my first build and I don't really have a great idea about what I'm doing, if anyone could take a look at this and tell me if it's good or not, I'd appreciate it immensely.

http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/1jbQF

Thanks!

Not going for a Z87 and a K CPU?

Could be remembering wrong, but couldn't a dead cmos battery do that?

I was thinking the same but we could be wrong, but it was what went through my mind.

 

[mandiller]

The plug that runs from the front powerswitch might of fallen out?

That seems to be fine. I don't see anything else out of place inside the PC either. Would a dead CMOS battery stop the pc turning on at all? If that's the case, how do you replace one of those?

 

[ShizWhiz]

Not going for a Z87 and a K CPU?

Get the K version of your cpu, low profile ram, an aftermarket cpu fan and the z77 version of that board

But yeah. Good build

Hey guys, there's someone helping me with this build and he's given me this:

http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/1jbtN

Do you think that's a much better improvement?

 

[kennah]

Hey guys, there's someone helping me with this build and he's given me this:

http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/1jbtN

Do you think that's a much better improvement?

Nope. Worse power supply and still no z board or k cpu

 

[Half and half]

I'd go for the 250GB 840 over the 128GB 840 Pro. The standard one is fast enough, plenty durable and you (obviously) get a lot more space. That RAM is also mighty expensive next to something like this which I'd get instead, save your cash http://www.outletpc.com/yd4622-8gb-...rucial+-+Memory (RAM) > Desktop - DDR3 Memory

Swap the 770 to the one with the ACX cooler too http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130921

Does that heatsink not come with a fan? For that sort of money too you could get a Corsair H60 or save cash and get a Hyper 212.

The deal I'm looking at offers the heatsink with dual Blacknoise SilentPro PL-1s:

http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/10/Noiseblocker-NB_BlackSilent_Pro_120mm

So I guess it's actually a bit more expensive than the price on my PCPartPicker build. I'll look at the items you mentioned.

Thanks for the help. This is my first serious PC and I'm pretty excited.

 

[mandiller]

Update: I removed my cmos battery and now my computer boots, fans spin etc. However my monitor is not getting any signal. Any ideas? Should I get a new cmos battery and insert it?

*Update2* I've reinserted my cmos battery. The computer still turns on/fans spin but no signal to monitor. I notice inside the pc there is a red light near my ram, so I remove one stick of ram and turn it back on and it works and goes to bios where I can reset my overlock settings to default. The computer now boots to desktop, I haven't tried reinserting the stick of ram yet.

 

[kharma45]

Hey guys, there's someone helping me with this build and he's given me this:

http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/1jbtN

Do you think that's a much better improvement?

Nope. Worse power supply and still no z board or k cpu

Bit more expensive this but a better HDD (I don't trust Seagate), an OCable CPU/mobo combo with a good cooler

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($259.00 @ Scorptec)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($39.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($139.00 @ Scorptec)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($89.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($479.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WN881ND 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($17.50 @ PCCaseGear)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($75.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($89.00 @ PLE Computers)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer ($21.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Other: OS - Win 64-bit Home Premium ($109.00)
Other: Keyboard - DK2108S Shine Zero MX Reds ($129.00)
Other: Monitor - Asus VS248 2ms 24" ($189.00)
Total: $1703.50
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-22 11:27 EST+1000)

If you can't stretch that far you can always drop the cooler for now.

 

[ShizWhiz]

Bit more expensive this but a better HDD (I don't trust Seagate), an OCable CPU/mobo combo with a good cooler

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($259.00 @ Scorptec)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($39.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($139.00 @ Scorptec)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($89.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($479.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WN881ND 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($17.50 @ PCCaseGear)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($75.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($89.00 @ PLE Computers)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer ($21.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Other: OS - Win 64-bit Home Premium ($109.00)
Other: Keyboard - DK2108S Shine Zero MX Reds ($129.00)
Other: Monitor - Asus VS248 2ms 24" ($189.00)
Total: $1703.50
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-22 11:27 EST+1000)

If you can't stretch that far you can always drop the cooler for now.

Wow thanks man, I unfortunately have a strict budget of $1800AUD including postage and all that, but I'll show your build to other people and see what their idea of it is. Thanks for taking the time to do that

 

[fbgamer]

That's the one. As for the GPU it's a great one, 760 might just about edge it for me though overall as the Never Settle bundle seems to have dried up.

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-video-card-gvr797to3gd
Im thinking of getting this one maybe for this same build

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/NImD

What do you think? Compatible?

 

[TheD]

Update: I removed my cmos battery and now my computer boots, fans spin etc. However my monitor is not getting any signal. Any ideas? Should I get a new cmos battery and insert it?

*Update2* I've reinserted my cmos battery. The computer still turns on/fans spin but no signal to monitor. I notice inside the pc there is a red light near my ram, so I remove one stick of ram and turn it back on and it works and goes to bios where I can reset my overlock settings to default. The computer now boots to desktop, I haven't tried reinserting the stick of ram yet.

What motherboard?

 

[Movement]

Hey guys. So, after two years with no problems my pc decides not to post anymore. The only thing different I can think of happening was having it be knocked over while moving. All the fans start, but can't get into bios and dram_led is solid red (p8p67 asus mobo). What does this usually mean and what troubleshoots should I employ?

 

[kennah]

Hey guys. So, after two years with no problems my pc decides not to post anymore. The only thing different I can think of happening was having it be knocked over while moving. All the fans start, but can't get into bios and dram_led is solid red (p8p67 asus mobo). What does this usually mean and what troubleshoots should I employ?

Reseat everything (ram, video card, all cables) and try again. If no boot then go to basic components (motherboard, ram (one stick), video card) and see if it will post.

 

[ElfArmy177]

I had a Hyper 212 cooler for my 4770k, but since I upgraded to 16gb or ram (4 sticks of 4gb) , it no longer fits. Any suggestions? I was thinking maybe a cooler that is round, and the fan is on top?

 

[kennah]

I had a Hyper 212 cooler for my 4770k, but since I upgraded to 16gb or ram (4 sticks of 4gb) , it no longer fits. Any suggestions? I was thinking maybe a cooler that is round, and the fan is on top?

Switch to water. Get an H100.

Or return the ram and get low profile stuff.

 

[ElfArmy177]

Switch to water. Get an H100.

Or return the ram and get low profile stuff.

I was having trouble finding 2133mhz low profile, atleast from tiger direct. H100 is kinda pricey, but Ill look into it, thanks!

It wouldnt be an issue, but with the stock cooler, I cant overclock past 4ghz or it gets too hot, I get nervous when temps hit 80 on max load - damn stock cooler.

EDIT: Also, when it comes to ram timings - Is this junk 11-11-11-27?? Iv always been told the lower the timings, the better, but when you get into the 2133mhz and above, the timings usually increase too. The only reason I got 2133mhz is a few forums were showing the higher the speed, the higher your min frame rate in games. Ill find the chart and post it in a second, but really whats more important, speed or timings?

 

[kennah]

I was having trouble finding 2133mhz low profile, atleast from tiger direct. H100 is kinda pricey, but Ill look into it, thanks!

It wouldnt be an issue, but with the stock cooler, I cant overclock past 4ghz or it gets too hot, I get nervous when temps hit 80 on max load - damn stock cooler.

EDIT: Also, when it comes to ram timings - Is this junk 11-11-11-27?? Iv always been told the lower the timings, the better, but when you get into the 2133mhz and above, the timings usually increase too. The only reason I got 2133mhz is a few forums were showing the higher the speed, the higher your min frame rate in games. Ill find the chart and post it in a second, but really whats more important, speed or timings?

Unless you have an AMD processor anything higher than 1866 is really pointless.

Also I just sold 16 gigs of low profile 2133 RAM

Why do you need 16 gigs? Games don't take advantage of more than 8.

 

[Skel1ingt0n]

Hey PC-GAF, I've got a big problem I'm hoping someone can help me with.

I've just come back from a month abroad during which time I've had my desktop computer unplugged. I'm back now and I've plugged it back in and switched the power supply switch to on but the computer won't start anymore when I hit the power button. Inside the case the standby power light for the power supply is on, and there is a green light on the motherboard, but there's no reaction when I try and turn the PC on. No fans move, there are no sounds, just dead.

Any ideas how to fix this and what the problem could be? My computer was working perfectly fine when I left and has been unplugged the whole time. It's not a super old computer. I'd say a year and a half old.

Happens to my grandma's computer all the time.

It's stupid and makes no sense, but... Turn off PSU. Unplug. Wait a minute. Unplug 24 pin from mobo. Wait a minute. Plug it back in. Wait a minute. Turn on PSU. Wait a minute. Try to turn on PC.

 

[Danj]

What do the RAM timings actually mean, and if I've no plans to overclock (but I'm still going to be gaming on it) do I still need to get the lowest numbers?

 

[ElfArmy177]

Unless you have an AMD processor anything higher than 1866 is really pointless.

Also I just sold 16 gigs of low profile 2133 RAM

Why do you need 16 gigs? Games don't take advantage of more than 8.

My buddies and I started a youtube channel where we play and talk about games and such. Because of that, Ive been doing the video editing. With 8 gigs, I was using 80% of my ram while video editing between after effects and adobe premiere.

 

[kennah]

What do the RAM timings actually mean, and if I've no plans to overclock (but I'm still going to be gaming on it) do I still need to get the lowest numbers?

Basically, but stuff has gotten so fast that the timings don't make a big a difference as they used to. The difference between CAS 2 and CAS 3 ram was HUGE, 50%. But now CAS 9 and CAS 11 the difference is close to 12%. The other part of the problem is that computers are SO FAST right now that unless you're doing super ram intensive server work/production/database work, there is really no difference between cas 9, cas 11, ddr 1600 and ddr2133. Maybe a couple frames here and there, but it's minor and not worth the effort.

Unless you really need to have that max benchmark.

My buddies and I started a youtube channel where we play and talk about games and such. Because of that, Ive been doing the video editing. With 8 gigs, I was using 80% of my ram while video editing between after effects and adobe premiere.

Perfectly reasonable, just making sure it wasn't just for games.

 

[deuce985]

Anyone have experience buying PC parts from Amazon? I know they're a great store for every other need because I use them but I've never used them for PC parts. I ask because I usually just use Newegg and later this year I'm going to be buying parts. I have like, $300 in my Amazon account right now just sitting around. So...it needs to be used. I'm just curious as to how they handle their PC parts. Any personal experiences good/bad? Do they share similar warranties like Newegg?

 

[kennah]

Anyone have experience buying PC parts from Amazon? I know they're a great store for every other need because I use them but I've never used them for PC parts. I ask because I usually just use Newegg and later this year I'm going to be buying parts. I have like, $300 in my Amazon account right now just sitting around. So...it needs to be used. I'm just curious as to how they handle their PC parts. Any personal experiences good/bad? Do they share similar warranties like Newegg?

Amazon is just fine, has great prices and often has free shipping and has the best warranty in the business.

None of this is true if you're in Canada.

 

[ElfArmy177]

Basically, but stuff has gotten so fast that the timings don't make a big a difference as they used to. The difference between CAS 2 and CAS 3 ram was HUGE, 50%. But now CAS 9 and CAS 11 the difference is close to 12%. The other part of the problem is that computers are SO FAST right now that unless you're doing super ram intensive server work/production/database work, there is really no difference between cas 9, cas 11, ddr 1600 and ddr2133. Maybe a couple frames here and there, but it's minor and not worth the effort.

Unless you really need to have that max benchmark.




Perfectly reasonable, just making sure it wasn't just for games.

I appreciate all your feedback Kennah, I feel I should have just got some CL9 ram instead of the CL11 2133mhz, but oh well, it was the same price! I was looking at the H60 by Cool-Master for a water cooled heatsink, any thoughts PC GAF? The H100i is a bit pricey, and Im not sure if its really that much better than the 60 dollar H60.

 

[theSlacker]

Amazon is just fine, has great prices and often has free shipping and has the best warranty in the business.

As a side note, just make sure not to overuse or abuse this warranty since they are known to just close people's accounts that use it too much. But yes, the way they do returns in the states at least is 100% hassle and worry free.

 

[kennah]

I appreciate all your feedback Kennah, I feel I should have just got some CL9 ram instead of the CL11 2133mhz, but oh well, it was the same price! I was looking at the H60 by Cool-Master for a water cooled heatsink, any thoughts PC GAF? The H100i is a bit pricey, and Im not sure if its really that much better than the 60 dollar H60.

If you're not pushing your overclock too hard the H60 is just fine.

 

[ElfArmy177]

If you're not pushing your overclock too hard the H60 is just fine.

As long as I can get a stable 4.4ghz on the 4770k Im ok with it.

 

[kennah]

As long as I can get a stable 4.4ghz on the 4770k Im ok with it.

Yeah... Good luck with that.

EDIT: Actually you might be ok if you're getting that now with your 212/have a good chip.

 

[lostsupper]

I appreciate all your feedback Kennah, I feel I should have just got some CL9 ram instead of the CL11 2133mhz, but oh well, it was the same price! I was looking at the H60 by Cool-Master for a water cooled heatsink, any thoughts PC GAF? The H100i is a bit pricey, and Im not sure if its really that much better than the 60 dollar H60.

How about a one-hour-old H80i for $45 shipped?

 

[ElfArmy177]

How about a one-hour-old H80i for $45 shipped?

I smell a CON! Why did you change your mind?

Yeah... Good luck with that.

EDIT: Actually you might be ok if you're getting that now with your 212/have a good chip.

yea I was able to get to 4.5 on my 3570k with my 212 seems like the 4770k is much hotter.

 

[kennah]

I smell a CON! Why did you change your mind?


yea I was able to get to 4.5 on my 3570k with my 212 seems like the 4770k is much hotter.

Yeah, you can't compare the two. Seems like the max overclock is getting lower each gen right now. Once I have my full loop going to try for a 5.0ghz stable on my 2550K, I can get it to post, but.. yeah.

 

[Danj]

Basically, but stuff has gotten so fast that the timings don't make a big a difference as they used to. The difference between CAS 2 and CAS 3 ram was HUGE, 50%. But now CAS 9 and CAS 11 the difference is close to 12%. The other part of the problem is that computers are SO FAST right now that unless you're doing super ram intensive server work/production/database work, there is really no difference between cas 9, cas 11, ddr 1600 and ddr2133. Maybe a couple frames here and there, but it's minor and not worth the effort.

Unless you really need to have that max benchmark.

Well it's just that I can save like £17 or so on the build I'm planning by dropping down from 10-10-10-27 to 11-11-11-30, is that worth doing?

 

[ElfArmy177]

Yeah, you can't compare the two. Seems like the max overclock is getting lower each gen right now. Once I have my full loop going to try for a 5.0ghz stable on my 2550K, I can get it to post, but.. yeah.

5ghz... you can go FUCK yourself! lol I cant get anywhere near that unless I go full water cool and back to the 2500k

 

[deuce985]

As a side note, just make sure not to overuse or abuse this warranty since they are known to just close people's accounts that use it too much. But yes, the way they do returns in the states at least is 100% hassle and worry free.

What do you mean by this? I'm guessing they have the same RMA process as Newegg+manufacturer warranties. I've actually had Newegg give me a new HDD despite it being out of warranty for over a year. Always loved Newegg CS. My experiences with Amazon CS has been good too with other products.