If you're really tight to your budget then totally. I doubt you'd notice a difference between the two. There is also the chance that your ram would take the faster timings anyway.
... still have it?
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
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If you're really tight to your budget then totally. I doubt you'd notice a difference between the two. There is also the chance that your ram would take the faster timings anyway.
ElfArmy177
Member
nah, sold it to a buddy. I assume there is no reason to overlock that much right now anyways as most games dont even take the full advantage of 4ghz. Besides, performance is better on the 4770k than the 2500k clock for clock. I had it at 4.5 for my sandy bridge, 4.4 for my ivy bridge, and will hopefully get to 4.3 with my Haswell.
If that works, Im sure my performance will be about the same or better anyways.
theSlacker
Member
Neg. Amazon's return process, at least for the NA (may also be prime members), is mark the item for return, for whatever reason you want, and print out the prepaid shipping label. Then drop it off in a mail box. Literally that fast and easy. As you can see it is easy to be abused, and there are reports of unlucky people that have used it often just getting their accounts shut down.
The budget's not tight, I can afford the faster RAM, but if I won't notice the difference then it makes more sense to go for the cheaper one and put the extra towards something else. It's still branded RAM (Corsair), just not their super uber brightly coloured heatspreader stuff.
Ah, yea. I've used this policy for other products on Amazon and I love it. They ship you the item before they even receive the return item too which is great. I figured they'd be much stricter on PC parts though.
Yup, it's fantastic.
Heatsinks do nothing but look pretty. You won't notice any difference at all.
Wow thanks man, I unfortunately have a strict budget of $1800AUD including postage and all that, but I'll show your build to other people and see what their idea of it is. Thanks for taking the time to do that
No problem.
Is it the stupid tall stuff? Amazon low profile do G.Skill 1866MHz 9-10-9-28 stuff for £53 http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007OTFE24/
Guys, I went to my local store to buy a SSD, but they recommended me to invest that money on a CPU and RAM upgrade (im on a Phenom II x 4 955 with 4 GB RAM).
CPU is out of the queston because its too much money now, but would you think It would be wise to spend the SSD money on 4 GB more of RAM?
Mind you, I dont game that much on PC, I usually use it for MMOs such as PSO2 and the upcoming FFXIV.
CPU is out of the queston because its too much money now, but would you think It would be wise to spend the SSD money on 4 GB more of RAM?
Mind you, I dont game that much on PC, I usually use it for MMOs such as PSO2 and the upcoming FFXIV.
You 5.0 guys are so lucky. I can't get my 2500K over 4.3 stable with a Hyper 212+
Join the club.
OldAsUrSock
Banned
They are right. Just get an SSD later if you already have a 7200rpm HDD.
You 5.0 guys are so lucky. I can't get my 2500K over 4.3 stable with a Hyper 212+
Ha same here. Silicon lottery at its finest.
Yeah I have WD Black 7200 rpm. Only one though and its almost full, so Ill probably have to get a new disc anyways, even if its a cheap HDD.
So RAM upgrade > SSD upgrade for now?
Unless you're using all your RAM (which for gaming you most likely aren't) go for the SSD.
Overclock your CPU too if you haven't already.
roosters93
Member
hi guys
I noticed a really weird problem I'm having yesterday, wondering if anyone can help.
Was watching a movie on my new PC and noticed the audio was out of sync with the video. I thought it was just a problem with that specific video but I've tried some others and the same thing is happening. Tried not using VLC but had the same problem with Media Player Classic and WMP.
I'm at a loss to what could be causing this. I'm using a DELL monitor and little 2.1 speaker setup which worked fine plugged into my old laptop.
pc is 3570k, hd7970.
I noticed a really weird problem I'm having yesterday, wondering if anyone can help.
Was watching a movie on my new PC and noticed the audio was out of sync with the video. I thought it was just a problem with that specific video but I've tried some others and the same thing is happening. Tried not using VLC but had the same problem with Media Player Classic and WMP.
I'm at a loss to what could be causing this. I'm using a DELL monitor and little 2.1 speaker setup which worked fine plugged into my old laptop.
pc is 3570k, hd7970.
About the CPU, i remember trying it a year ago, and couldnt go higher than 3,5. At 3,6 it started to get some random crashes after some hours of work.
My phenom is the BE Edition and is paired with a Hyper 212+ and a 600 W. Temps were fine.
Mind you this is just doing a simple OC via BIOS. Didnt want to mess with voltages and such.
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Attention all sound audiophiles!
Can the SoundBlaster Z/ZX/ZXR drive the Beyerdynamic DT990 600 OHM version? It says on the website that it can - but I don't really trust that, as 600OHMS would require a pretty decent amp.
I'm thinking I might pull the trigger if I can wait on an amp.
Can the SoundBlaster Z/ZX/ZXR drive the Beyerdynamic DT990 600 OHM version? It says on the website that it can - but I don't really trust that, as 600OHMS would require a pretty decent amp.
I'm thinking I might pull the trigger if I can wait on an amp.
That's why then, you need more volts. It's nothing to be afraid of, just stay within the recommended maximum for it and for temperatures. Increased clock speed will help you in CPU dependent games like MMOs.
Hard to say. We are barely seeing most games using more than 2 threads, I'd be surprised to see them rocket to 8 so soon.
Whiteshirt
Member
I've got a bit of a dilemma.
I'm currently building a desktop for a friend and I'm trying to decide between an AMD A10 or i3 3220 build. The i3 3220 is better than the A10 for single threaded tasks but I don't see how that will really benefit basic excel spreadsheets, cat videos and word processing. The A10, on the otherhand, has integrated graphics that isn't completely awful and can probably play an odd game here and there. Granted the i3 3220 can probably do the same but the HD2500 is still pretty shit and would probably need a discrete card for anything remotely stressful.
Help me choose a processor, I dunno what is the better choice or not. She's upgrading from a Pentium 4 if that helps.
Edit:
Comedy option also includes that 6 core Piledriver CPU, as it costs as much as an i3, but I don't know if I can find a cheap mATX board that won't explode for it.
I'm currently building a desktop for a friend and I'm trying to decide between an AMD A10 or i3 3220 build. The i3 3220 is better than the A10 for single threaded tasks but I don't see how that will really benefit basic excel spreadsheets, cat videos and word processing. The A10, on the otherhand, has integrated graphics that isn't completely awful and can probably play an odd game here and there. Granted the i3 3220 can probably do the same but the HD2500 is still pretty shit and would probably need a discrete card for anything remotely stressful.
Help me choose a processor, I dunno what is the better choice or not. She's upgrading from a Pentium 4 if that helps.
Edit:
Comedy option also includes that 6 core Piledriver CPU, as it costs as much as an i3, but I don't know if I can find a cheap mATX board that won't explode for it.
Half and half
Member
If its general use with a bit of light casual gaming I would go A10.
Future PhaZe
Member
Has anyone made use of a device like the Razer Nostromo?
If so what were your thoughts?
If so what were your thoughts?
If you're wanting the i3 series route, you could get an i3-3225 which has the HD4000 graphics. But you're probably fine with the A10.
Ok. Just had a bit of a troubleshooting issue. I'm not sure what caused it, but here's what happened...
-PC/monitor powered on, huge thunderstorm outside, power goes out for ~5secs
-power comes back on, PC is powered, monitor is off
-multiple tries and monitor won't power on... unplug monitor from PC + power
-plug in monitor one last time, this time it powers on, but still no display on PC
-try plugging monitor directly into motherboard video out... still no display
-remove graphics card.... now I get display through motherboard
-install graphics card again... display works through graphics card again
-everything is normal again?
-PC/monitor powered on, huge thunderstorm outside, power goes out for ~5secs
-power comes back on, PC is powered, monitor is off
-multiple tries and monitor won't power on... unplug monitor from PC + power
-plug in monitor one last time, this time it powers on, but still no display on PC
-try plugging monitor directly into motherboard video out... still no display
-remove graphics card.... now I get display through motherboard
-install graphics card again... display works through graphics card again
-everything is normal again?
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Did you have an overclock going? Sometimes surge protection will really screw things up - great for saving your equipment - but frustrating to troubleshoot.
IF everything is working fine now, and continues to work for a couple days, I wouldn't worry
Good luck!ChronotriggerJM
Member
Your sure you absolutely can't get him to go with an i5?
Side note: sort of off topic, why does no one talk about the GTX 690? I hear titan thrown all over the place but pound for pound doesn't the 690 shame it?
A 690 is really underclock SLI GTX680 on one card. Now, you know that it should tell you why the Titan is better.
ChronotriggerJM
Member
Does it run into all the same issues SLI typically has?
Yes. It's just a typical SLI setup except on one card.
ChronotriggerJM
Member
Well then that makes sense
I was just glossing over gpu boss and noticed the real world performance tests. I knew it was a twin card setup, I just didn't know it had all the SLI issues lol. Thanks for the clarification.Titan is a monster single-gpu, but the 690 is faster, still, iirc. SLI isn't bad. That'd be a tough decision for me.
Nope.
ChronotriggerJM
Member
On some of the tests, the 690 was getting 20+ FPS advantage over the titan, when gaming at that level its an insane margin. Also, not that it matters, but it's a tad bit cheaper.
I run SLI Titans and don't see issues with SLI. If you are planning to get 690, why not go SLI 680/770 instead. They are faster.
Did you have an overclock going? Sometimes surge protection will really screw things up - great for saving your equipment - but frustrating to troubleshoot.
IF everything is working fine now, and continues to work for a couple days, I wouldn't worry
Processor is OC'd so maybe that was the reason.
I thought my monitor blew out at first. It wouldn't power on at all. I was literally about to trash it when I tried plugging it in a different outlet and I suddenly powered up again. Then I still couldn't get a display on it until I removed and reinstalled the GPU. Oh well... glad everything seems to be fine.
ChronotriggerJM
Member
Yeah I was weighing my options on a rig, I was considering the 770's in an SLI setup as they seem to be in a very good cost/performance bracket. I'm just not sure how I feel about a performance hit should the SLI option not be viable / unstable.
That's why some people like single cards, like Titan and 780. Since I game at 1440p, I have no choice but to go SLI to achieve 60fps and max setting (minus high AA). If you game at 1080p, a single card will do.
Why would you need an i5 for those tasks?
Whiteshirt
Member
She's around 60 years old. There's no point getting her an i5 quad core because that shit is $60 more than the CPUs I was thinking about and way too powerful for cat videos.
ChronotriggerJM
Member
Yeah sorry, my mind spaced a bit when I read "odd game or two". I wasn't taking into account said game lol. I just know the i5 is a beast of an all around processor, and it's on-board graphics aren't bad in the slightest.
Sir Abacus
Member
This is supposed to be acceptable for a $200 CM case?
/facepalm
CM is full of quality as ever.
/facepalm
CM is full of quality as ever.
I had someone on here send me a recommended build that would cost between 1200 to 1500 for a PC that would last a couple years before an upgrade.
What do you guys think? Some feedback would be awesome!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($164.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($648.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Arctic White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX ProSeries 750W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1498.90
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-22 14:25 EDT-0400)
What do you guys think? Some feedback would be awesome!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($164.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($648.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Arctic White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX ProSeries 750W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1498.90
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-22 14:25 EDT-0400)
I've been getting a lot of BSOD errors over the past week. Today it's happened about six times in the span of two hours. I have minidumps and other log files. Can anyone take a look? I think it may be a hardware CPU issue, as AuthenticAMD comes up in the minidump when I look at it, but I'm not sure. If anyone could take a look, it'd mean a lot.
Also, Check Disk fails to run on my SSD. :/ Whenever I reboot the system to initiate it, this happens:
Also, Check Disk fails to run on my SSD. :/ Whenever I reboot the system to initiate it, this happens:
Sorry if it's hard to see, but the box to the far right shows some corrupted looking lines. I have "No GUI" boot enabled, so I'm not sure what it'd look like without it on.
DJ_Lae
Member
Has anyone made use of a device like the Razer Nostromo?
If so what were your thoughts?
I have one of the older models (back when it was Belkin...N52 I think) with far less features.
I used it mainly for gaming on my laptop at the time, and it was decent for that. It seemed sort of pointless when you already have a full size keyboard, but maybe there's an advantage by having a dpad under your thumb depending on how you map buttons. Remapping some of that stuff was the annoying part.
Alright, I'll run memtest now. How many passes should I run it for? My nVidia graphics drivers were reinstalled a few days ago, and I've been running CCleaner. I hope there's no issue with my RAM. :/ I'll update from my Macbook.
BUMP for new page, thanks in advance.
Don't do this. You posted 4 posts ago. Give people a chance to answer.
It's a solid build, basically what we have in the OP, I'm not sure what we're supposed to tell you.
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