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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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pubba

Member
Either Christmas for lower prices or wait to see what will be required for the new generation.

This is good advice, but after seeing the Steam threads on here and the Big Picture Mode + 360 controller setup at my local gaming store - I want a gaming PC!

There's a good 6-7 years of PC game backlog that I can play if I build a decent gaming rig now, and then I can use the system for my art stuff and buy a next gen console later next year if it's too outdated.
 

kharma45

Member
I sent your list to a PC builder on taobao.com (it's like eBay in China) and he said he can build the system you listed for 3,900 RMB including shipping and Windows 8

That's $636 USD

The GPU is 1099 RMB - $180 USD

The other 7870 GPU - can you give me a manufacturer name that you can recommend ? And is it 2GB like the 650 TiBoost?

7870 is 2GB with a wider bus. Brands to look at are Gigabyte, MSI and Sapphire.

Either Christmas for lower prices or wait to see what will be required for the new generation.

What do you expect to be cheaper at Christmas?
 

t-ramp

Member
So I was thinking of getting an ssd to supplement my existing PC. It currently has a 750gb WD Black drive in there and I've got a 1tb external HDD that I put videos and such on. I was thinking of getting an SSD just to speed up load times for games like Shogun 2 or Sky rim and Windows.

Looking at some SSDs, the Samsung 840 and 840 pro seems well regarded. I don't need a tip top SSD, so would a regular 840 at 250GB be enough for having Windows 7 and a handful of games? Or is the 840 Pro that much better? Considering I've never used an SSD before, I'm guessing anyone would knock my socks off.
From what I hear, the regular 840 is fine if you're getting the 250GB version.
 

kharma45

Member
In the United States everything gets cheaper or good bundles.

Not by much if at all, nor does it matter since he is buying in China.

Is this suitable? MSI微星R7870 HAWK HD7870 2GB DDR5

It's 1270 RMB - $207 USD

It is yes, i would take that over the 650 Ti boost everyday of the week.

PSU might need swapped as its on promotion in the USA and likely isn't in china. What modular options are available?

From what I hear, the regular 840 is fine if you're getting the 250GB version.

120GB version is also fine.
 

pubba

Member
It is yes, i would take that over the 650 Ti boost everyday of the week.

PSU might need swapped as its on promotion in the USA and likely isn't in china. What modular options are available?

Yeah the PSU you listed is about $85 here. I'm not sure about options, I guess that I could ask the guys at the local PC market to recommend a good PSU when I buy the other parts?
 

Valravn

Member
Dont want to create a new thread so ill just ask here.


I recently connected the front usb 3.0 port to my motherboard. But i fucked it up. Some pins on the usb 3.0 header got bent. I fixed it, and it works fine.
But now at random moments my pc restarts. No error or bsod (i disabled automatic restart), it just restarts. Now can the cause of this be a faulty usb header? I did use an external hdd and it worked fine. Although when i connect an usb stick, the pc doesnt boot, until i take out the usb stick. i have disconnected the front usb cable now. Guess ill have to wait and see.

I also checked hdd and memory for errors. They are fine.
 

SaitoH

Member
I have an older PC for web surfing and Lightroom.- intel 8400 with 4 gig of ram and thought I'd do a cheap upgrade by adding an SSD.

I wanted to do a clean install of windows 8 and am having no success. It seems to go through the install fine, but when it detects devices and needs to reboot I see the windows 8 boot screen then it goes black and nothing happens.

I've made sure my motherboard (gigabyte GA-73PVM-S2H) is set to AHCI and I can see that my Samsung 840 is detected in the bios, but no joy.

Any ideas about what to do, or do I need a more modern motherboard (which means processor and ram as well)?

Any help? :)
 

Danj

Member
I recently connected the front usb 3.0 port to my motherboard. But i fucked it up. Some pins on the usb 3.0 header got bent. I fixed it, and it works fine.
But now at random moments my pc restarts. No error or bsod (i disabled automatic restart), it just restarts. Now can the cause of this be a faulty usb header? I did use an external hdd and it worked fine. Although when i connect an usb stick, the pc doesnt boot, until i take out the usb stick. i have disconnected the front usb cable now. Guess ill have to wait and see.

Faulty USB port headers can indeed cause problems like that. I just had an issue like that at my workplace where we had a small form factor PC on an all in one stand with built in USB ports on it, and the PC would not boot with the external ports plugged in.
 
I hope this is the right place to ask, but does anyone have an older PCIE 2.0 video card they aren't using that they'd like to sell? I have an older gtx 260 but it's kinda pooping out so I'm looking to replace it. Thanks for your time

I'm replacing my GTX 570 with a new card. I think that's 2.0. PM me if interested.
 

kharma45

Member
Yeah the PSU you listed is about $85 here. I'm not sure about options, I guess that I could ask the guys at the local PC market to recommend a good PSU when I buy the other parts?

Most Corsair stuff is good, as is Antec, Be Quiet!, XFX and Seasonic.
 

musicjunkie

Neo Member
Plan on buying my build in the next month here and wanted to get some feedback. I don't plan to OC hence the non-K CPU and H87 mobo. This build is for gaming on a single 1080p monitor.

Only thing i'm kind of on the fence about here is the SDD. Worth buying the 512GB 840 Pro for about $150 more? Should I wait for the Samsung EVO or be looking at the M500 instead?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI H87-G43 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($97.24 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($319.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($259.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.98 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan ($18.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan ($18.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1343.12
 

tickling

Banned
looking to upgrade my pc tomorrow.

Currently a AMD dual core processor with 2 GB ram with a radeon 3000 graphics card. I am planning just to do a wee upgrade this month and another one next and next to keep me going till next year and build a new PC from scratch.

What I am thinking off is upgraded the ram to 4gb DDR3 and installing Gigabyte 7750 and also getting a Xbox Controller.

Next month I was going to upgrade the processor to a 4 core one next month.

Does this plan sound good?
 

kharma45

Member
Plan on buying my build in the next month here and wanted to get some feedback. I don't plan to OC hence the non-K CPU and H87 mobo. This build is for gaming on a single 1080p monitor.

Only thing i'm kind of on the fence about here is the SDD. Worth buying the 512GB 840 Pro for about $150 more? Should I wait for the Samsung EVO or be looking at the M500 instead?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI H87-G43 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($97.24 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($319.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($259.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.98 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan ($18.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan ($18.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1343.12

Swap the PSU to this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00918MEZG/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Don't bother with the 840 Pro unless you really need that write performance.
 

maneil99

Member
Just a note to everyone about the Maximus V Gene, the Bottom PCI-E Slot is 8x not 16x, its even labeled as 8x. My CPU cooler was too close to my GPU so I moved it down and it runs 8x, so I checked the motherboard, sure enough it says 8x, even when not running SLI


maximus-v-gene-2.jpg
 

QaaQer

Member
So I was thinking of getting an ssd to supplement my existing PC. It currently has a 750gb WD Black drive in there and I've got a 1tb external HDD that I put videos and such on. I was thinking of getting an SSD just to speed up load times for games like Shogun 2 or Sky rim and Windows.

Looking at some SSDs, the Samsung 840 and 840 pro seems well regarded. I don't need a tip top SSD, so would a regular 840 at 250GB be enough for having Windows 7 and a handful of games? Or is the 840 Pro that much better? Considering I've never used an SSD before, I'm guessing anyone would knock my socks off.

I have the pro version and it is the first ssd that I have zero complaints about. I bought it because Anandtec said it was the best consumer ssd so far. So yeah, go pro if the extra $ isn't a real issue. Plus the samsung ssd software is pretty great.
 

BizzyBum

Member
ah fuck it, think I'm just gonna wait. There's really no good reason to build one now.. I'll just have some willpower and wait until later this year. I will def need to build one for BF4 and W3.
 

Croyles

Member
Right I cannot find the Antec or SeaSonic power supplies on any german websites. Can anyone recommend a couple of fairly quiet power supplies in a similar price range, 550w and over? My graphics card will be the GTX 760 4GB (which needs 2 6-pin pcie connectors).

Full specs:
CPU: i7 3770k
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x8GB (16gb)
GPU: GTX 760 4GB
SSD: 840 120 GB
HDD: WD Black 1TB
Case: BitFenix Shinobi
Heatsink: CoolerMaster 212 EVO


Thanks!
 
looking to upgrade my pc tomorrow.

Currently a AMD dual core processor with 2 GB ram with a radeon 3000 graphics card. I am planning just to do a wee upgrade this month and another one next and next to keep me going till next year and build a new PC from scratch.

What I am thinking off is upgraded the ram to 4gb DDR3 and installing Gigabyte 7750 and also getting a Xbox Controller.

Next month I was going to upgrade the processor to a 4 core one next month.

Does this plan sound good?
Sounds pretty good to me. Though personally I would go 8GB.
 

kharma45

Member
Right I cannot find the Antec or SeaSonic power supplies on any german websites. Can anyone recommend a couple of fairly quiet power supplies in a similar price range, 550w and over? My graphics card will be the GTX 760 4GB (which needs 2 6-pin pcie connectors).

Full specs:
CPU: i7 3770k
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x8GB (16gb)
GPU: GTX 760 4GB
SSD: 840 120 GB
HDD: WD Black 1TB
Case: BitFenix Shinobi
Heatsink: CoolerMaster 212 EVO!

Change to a WD Blue.

PSU wise what kind of money are we talking? These are good, depends on what you can spend and whether you want modular or not

http://www.amazon.de/dp/B004RJ8EKI/

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog...ower-L8-modular-Netzteil-530-Watt::17344.html / http://www.amazon.de/dp/B005JS580A/

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog...II-520-Netzteil-SS-520GM-520-Watt::14324.html

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog...-80Plus-Gold-87-Netzteil-550-Watt::20490.html
 

Croyles

Member

K thanks will change to blue.

Does that first PSU have 2 6-pin PCIE-E slots? Pretty good from a price perspective also, wouldn't want to spend too much more.
 

deuce985

Banned
I'm really worried about GPUs with such low VRAM currently(affordable ones at least). I was expecting the line to jump a little in VRAM but it didn't. I'm having second thoughts building a PC later this year. I figure with the consoles out engines will be designed around them. So, you'll see hardware requirements make their biggest leap within the first 1-2 years of their launch. I don't think it will be worth me spending over $1k on a new PC when I have a decent one as it is.

Next year Nvidia is supposedly releasing their next-gen lineup, is that correct? Also, I don't like where the CPU market is sitting. I know i7's on 4 cores crush the console CPUs on 8 cores but it just seems wrong with Intel cornering the market. Are we going to see AMD do something next year or what?

Thoughts on waiting until next year to build a PC? If Nvidia released a 770ti with 4GBs VRAM or something I might have to jump on that. I suppose I should just wait and see what else Nvidia releases this year and possibly AMD. If AMD blows away Nvidia then I might have to make the switch.
 

kharma45

Member
I'm really worried about GPUs with such low VRAM currently(affordable ones at least). I was expecting the line to jump a little in VRAM but it didn't. I'm having second thoughts building a PC later this year. I figure with the consoles out engines will be designed around them. So, you'll see hardware requirements make their biggest leap within the first 1-2 years of their launch. I don't think it will be worth me spending over $1k on a new PC when I have a decent one as it is.

Next year Nvidia is supposedly releasing their next-gen lineup, is that correct? Also, I don't like where the CPU market is sitting. I know i7's on 4 cores crush the console CPUs on 8 cores but it just seems wrong with Intel cornering the market. Are we going to see AMD do something next year or what?

Thoughts on waiting until next year to build a PC? If Nvidia released a 770ti with 4GBs VRAM or something I might have to jump on that.

VRAM will increase when it is needed, and at the minute what we have at 2GB on a lot of cards is still ample.

Maxwell is still due next year yes, and AMD should have something too. On the CPU side AMD will have Steamroller out in October but it'll still likely be behind Intel even with the 15-20% IPC boost over Piledriver. VR-Zone also has a source apparently at AMD who say they should be able to beat that

"Steamroller is not Bulldozer Enhanced. F*** no. The layout might look the same but our LEGO blocks are completely different. When all is said and done we should get 45% improvement and this goes to show how the Bulldozer was f***** design. This is all what Bulldozer was supposed to be."

http://vr-zone.com/articles/amd-pus...ullish-about-performance-increases/17088.html
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Hey everyone! Today I spent the afternoon tinkering, as I know I won't be getting too much more time to work on my baby in the coming weeks - my hours at work are gonna be getting pretty rough. So, I tried to finish everything up with my months-in-progress build, and I think I can finally feel comfortable saying it's done. I'm sure I'll run into some issues here and there, and there are still a few things I'd like to adjust and work on, but yeah... this is my new gaming rig in all its glory!

LL


LL


LL


Specs:

Little Devil PC-V7 in Black/Red
Asus Rampage IV Forumula
i7 3820 @ 4.6Ghz
Nvidia/EVGA Titan @ +100Mhz
16GB Corsair Vengeance @ 2333
256GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD
480 OWC Mercury Extreme 6G SSD
Seasonic X750 Modular PSU w/ White/Red PsychoSleeve cables and Modright extensions
Blu-Ray Burner


Cooling:

360mm EK XTX Rad
240mm EK XTS Rad
Phobya E-Loop 16RPM fans x6
AlphaCool D5 Pump
EK X-Res Res/PumpTop combo 240
EK Supremacy CPU Block
EK Titan GPU Block
EK Titan Backplate
Primochill tube
Monsoon fittings

Temps:

Ambient: AC set to 72f, so about 22-23c

CPU: Idle @ 28c; Gaming @ 45-52c; Prime95 @ 65-72c

GPU: Idle @ 27c, Gaming @ 30-35c; Haven/FurMark/3dMark @ 34-36c

***

Thank you to all of those that have helped me through this - everyone in this thread and elsewhere have been a huge factor in me getting this all done. Big thanks to mkenyon for his guidance.

And if you're interested in the full build log, here's a link!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1394229/...n-op-rivf-3820-titan-16gb-700gb-ssd-fully-wcd
 

teh_pwn

"Saturated fat causes heart disease as much as Brawndo is what plants crave."
Awesome if Steamroller is actually 45% faster IPC. That would make the chip 35% faster overall compared to i7 4770K for apps that use all 8 cores.

If that were true and Excavator is focused on performance (2014) then we'll have AMD CPUs that perform roughly on par with Intel's CPUs per core. That's huge. Finally Intel would stop being a dick about desktop performance with their stagnation in performance and indifference to thermals.

Haswell was a tock and a massive let down for desktop. Something like 5% increase IPC but most CPUs OC only to 4.3 GHz due to poor cooling and added heat from voltage regulator. If AMD were to catch up during Intel's tick, they'll have to react with Skylake. Have to because it would threaten their cash cow - overmarked Xeons.
 

kharma45

Member
Awesome if Steamroller is actually 45% faster IPC. That would make the chip 35% faster overall compared to i7 4770K for apps that use all 8 cores.

If that were true and Excavator is focused on performance (2014) then we'll have AMD CPUs that perform roughly on par with Intel's CPUs per core. That's huge. Finally Intel would stop being a dick about desktop performance with their stagnation in performance and indifference to thermals.

Haswell was a tock and a massive let down for desktop. Something like 5% increase IPC but most CPUs OC only to 4.3 GHz due to poor cooling and added heat from voltage regulator. If AMD were to catch up during Intel's tick, they'll have to react with Skylake. Have to because it would threaten their cash cow - overmarked Xeons.

If being the key word. I hope it happens for their sake and that source isn't taking through his arse.
 

teh_pwn

"Saturated fat causes heart disease as much as Brawndo is what plants crave."
If being the key word. I hope it happens for their sake and that source isn't taking through his arse.

Sure. I strongly hope. Otherwise expect 5% annual IPC increases and high prices until something replaces silicon or ARM comes out with a beefy CPU suitable for desktop.

Intel could shit out one tock without really doing much - reducing yields, improving thermals, and clocking to 5.0 GHz. But real competition would force them to do more than use what they've already created.
 

deuce985

Banned
VRAM will increase when it is needed, and at the minute what we have at 2GB on a lot of cards is still ample.

Maxwell is still due next year yes, and AMD should have something too. On the CPU side AMD will have Steamroller out in October but it'll still likely be behind Intel even with the 15-20% IPC boost over Piledriver. VR-Zone also has a source apparently at AMD who say they should be able to beat that



http://vr-zone.com/articles/amd-pus...ullish-about-performance-increases/17088.html

Thanks for info. I just keep jumping back and forth on if I should buy one. I'd hate to get screwed over with price+performance where I'm forcing myself to replace half the parts 2 years from now. I think this generational leap here is where you have to be careful how you spend your money on PC gaming.
 

Ragus

Banned
My question might be silly, but I guess I'll take risk. It's my first gaming pc, and I don't want to destroy it :

So, my case has those fan switches, which work just as it's writen on this image made by me:


So, switches turned to the left - fan in the front and in the back don't make such a big noise, switches turned to the right - fans work hard as fuck and are quite noisy, switches in the central position - fans stop working and I can only hear what I guess is the fan from my GTX 770 (am I right)?

During gaming, I set both switches to maximum cooling. What should I do when I quit a game? Should I turn them both off and let GPU fan take the care of cooling my rig (assuming, that it's GPU fan that I hear when I turn both switches to off - I'm asking adain, do I? ;p), or should I switch them both to Low? Or maybe just one to Low and the other to Off?
 
Hey everyone! Today I spent the afternoon tinkering, as I know I won't be getting too much more time to work on my baby in the coming weeks - my hours at work are gonna be getting pretty rough. So, I tried to finish everything up with my months-in-progress build, and I think I can finally feel comfortable saying it's done. I'm sure I'll run into some issues here and there, and there are still a few things I'd like to adjust and work on, but yeah... this is my new gaming rig in all its glory!

LL


LL


LL


Specs:

Little Devil PC-V7 in Black/Red
Asus Rampage IV Forumula
i7 3820 @ 4.6Ghz
Nvidia/EVGA Titan @ +100Mhz
16GB Corsair Vengeance @ 2333
256GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD
480 OWC Mercury Extreme 6G SSD
Seasonic X750 Modular PSU w/ White/Red PsychoSleeve cables and Modright extensions
Blu-Ray Burner


Cooling:

360mm EK XTX Rad
240mm EK XTS Rad
Phobya E-Loop 16RPM fans x6
AlphaCool D5 Pump
EK X-Res Res/PumpTop combo 240
EK Supremacy CPU Block
EK Titan GPU Block
EK Titan Backplate
Primochill tube
Monsoon fittings

Temps:

Ambient: AC set to 72f, so about 22-23c

CPU: Idle @ 28c; Gaming @ 45-52c; Prime95 @ 65-72c

GPU: Idle @ 27c, Gaming @ 30-35c; Haven/FurMark/3dMark @ 34-36c

***

Thank you to all of those that have helped me through this - everyone in this thread and elsewhere have been a huge factor in me getting this all done. Big thanks to mkenyon for his guidance.

And if you're interested in the full build log, here's a link!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1394229/...n-op-rivf-3820-titan-16gb-700gb-ssd-fully-wcd

Wait you actually continued this? nice

also congrats man
 

deuce985

Banned
My question might be silly, but I guess I'll take risk. It's my first gaming pc, and I don't want to destroy it :

So, my case has those fan switches, which work just as it's writen on this image made by me:



So, switches turned to the left - fan in the front and in the back don't make such a big noise, switches turned to the right - fans work hard as fuck and are quite noisy, switches in the central position - fans stop working and I can only hear what I guess is the fan from my GTX 770 (am I right)?

During gaming, I set both switches to maximum cooling. What should I do when I quit a game? Should I turn them both off and let GPU fan take the care of cooling my rig (assuming, that it's GPU fan that I hear when I turn both switches to off - I'm asking adain, do I? ;p), or should I switch them both to Low? Or maybe just one to Low and the other to Off?

Never ever turn your fans off. The more cooling the better. When you're not using intensive programs like games on your PC then a low RPM state for your fans is reasonable. You don't want your fans running at 85% all the time or you'll burn them up. Just fyi, I wouldn't run a fan past 75% speed. Anything beyond that and you're begging for the motor to burn out fast.

You don't have a mobo to monitor the fans for you? Last thing you want is a simple $10 fan short out and fry your PC. If you put your PC to sleep in a low power state idle then that's a little different when fans are stopping. I personally don't use that because I don't like my HDD to stop or the fans ever. It's debatable whether that decreases the life of your system or increases it.

But yea, you should always have those fans running even if they're only at 45%. If you stop the air flow in your PC and rely on CPU/GPU cooling, the core temp is going to go way up and the more heat you generate inside your PC the faster it will kill it. I'm guessing you don't OC? My fans adjust based on the temp inside my PC. Obviously they go up to about 75% when I'm playing a game and when I'm just browsing the internet they're in a low RPM state. I recommend using a program to look at your temp inside the PC while you game too btw.
 

Ragus

Banned
You don't have a mobo to monitor the fans for you?]

The fans, which were provided with my GPU are in fact controlled by mobo (when for example I launch Bioshock Infinite on maxed out setting, those GPU fans start to work louder and the maximum temperature is around 50 C). One the other hand, those 2 fans, which are being controlled by the switches, are afaik independent and the either work at low or high mode.

I wasn't even planning on getting any cooling except for what is being provided by the manufacturer with GPU, as I'm not planning to overclock (I read somewhere, that I should buy additional cooling only, if I plan to OC my rig).

So now I'm not sure, if turning on those fans isn't just and overkill, as temperatures seem to be fine both during idle and gaming, when I'm not using them.

Or maybe I'm simply wrong, and I should have them turned on forever. I'll gladly listen to your advice :).
 

deuce985

Banned
The fans, which were provided with my GPU are in fact controlled by mobo (when for example I launch Bioshock Infinite on maxed out setting, those GPU fans start to work louder and the maximum temperature is around 50 C). One the other hand, those 2 fans, which are being controlled by the switches, are afaik independent and the either work at low or high mode.

I wasn't even planning on getting any cooling except for what is being provided by the manufacturer with GPU, as I'm not planning to overclock (I read somewhere, that I should buy additional cooling only, if I plan to OC my rig).

So now I'm not sure, if turning on those fans isn't just and overkill, as temperatures seem to be fine both during idle and gaming, when I'm not using them.

Or maybe I'm simply wrong, and I should have them turned on forever. I'll gladly listen to your advice :).

Yea, those two fans are case fans you're probably talking about. I would always leave those running because if you don't, it restricts your air flow. You do not have to get additional cooling if you're playing a game and the max load temps are all very stable. Personally, I'd go with as much cooling as possible because like I said, the more heat generated the faster it kills your components. If you're comfortable with the temps then by all means do not buy anymore cooling.

I recommend keeping your fans on all the time though. I see little reason not to. Unless you're trying to save on power in which I doubt you see much difference on your electric bill lol. Think of it like this: Would you rather your CPU/GPU/Mobo to fry or would you rather seeing a $10 case fan die?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Hey everyone! Today I spent the afternoon tinkering, as I know I won't be getting too much more time to work on my baby in the coming weeks - my hours at work are gonna be getting pretty rough. So, I tried to finish everything up with my months-in-progress build, and I think I can finally feel comfortable saying it's done. I'm sure I'll run into some issues here and there, and there are still a few things I'd like to adjust and work on, but yeah... this is my new gaming rig in all its glory!

LL


http://www.overclock.net/t/1394229/...n-op-rivf-3820-titan-16gb-700gb-ssd-fully-wcd
Very nice man :)
 

Jzero

Member
Hey everyone! Today I spent the afternoon tinkering, as I know I won't be getting too much more time to work on my baby in the coming weeks - my hours at work are gonna be getting pretty rough. So, I tried to finish everything up with my months-in-progress build, and I think I can finally feel comfortable saying it's done.

Sexy sexy sexy, and i don't even like those types of cases.
 
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