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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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Pachimari

Member
1) Remove the stock cooler that you mounted
2) Remove the thermal paste that is left on the CPU with at least 60% rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth
3) Read the H60 installation instructions. If you are not sure which socket type you have or which bracket to use post your CPU model here and we will help you
4) Make sure the CPU is clean of all debris and install the H60 bracket according to the installation instructions, there is no need for any extra thermal paste because the H60 has thermal paste already applied to it.

Ah from the stock fan. Well clean it off using something like a cotton bud and some sort of white spirit or whatever. It's not too hard to get it off https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9MJUuU58vE Just make sure not to get any liquid on the motherboard itself.

Once it's cleaned up you can look to mount the H60

I use a plastic spoon to get any larger bits (GENTLY) and a cotton swab (aka qtip) with a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol to take off the residue. Works like a charm, and th excess rubbing alcohol just evaporates.

No stores are open right now, so I'm gonna use a 93% alcohol with cotton bud. And I think I'm gonna remove the CPU from the motherboard when cleaning it, just to be safer.

Edit:
Oh I can't. Well, I'm just gonna clean it while it's on the motherboard. Super nervous about this.

Edit 2:
I think this must be good enough, can't seem to get it any more cleaner.

gV7dLoe.jpg
 

bro1

Banned
I'm going to be living away from my wife and son for about 3 months due to work and will have time for some serious gaming. I already have a 27" 144hz monitor. The question is do i go 1440p 27" for Diablo and skyrim or 40" tv for comfy couch gaming. Gtx 770 sli so I can play anything.
 

Pachimari

Member
Okay, so I have installed the Corsair H60 fan in my case and is now at the point where I apparently need to install the motherboard into the case as well, before adding the cooler to the CPU.

I have no idea how to install a motherboard but there must be screws included, I'm gonna check it out.
 

soultron

Banned
Okay, so I have installed the Corsair H60 fan in my case and is now at the point where I apparently need to install the motherboard into the case as well, before adding the cooler to the CPU.

I have no idea how to install a motherboard but there must be screws included, I'm gonna check it out.
You're looking for standoff screws first; these get screwed into the case and then the mobo gets mounted on them. Do a Google image search and you'll be able to visually identify them. They should have come with your case.
 

bro1

Banned
Okay, so I have installed the Corsair H60 fan in my case and is now at the point where I apparently need to install the motherboard into the case as well, before adding the cooler to the CPU.

I have no idea how to install a motherboard but there must be screws included, I'm gonna check it out.

install the motherboard risers in your case that correspond with the holes on your mobo. Some cases have these pre-installed like the Corsair Carbride 300. Next, install the IO shield (usb plugs, LAN, audio part on the back of the case). Next, angel your mobo in so that you slide into the IO shield. Then screw the mobo into the risers. Make sure no part of the case is actually touching the mobo, just the risers and the IO shield.
 

ChRoNiTe

Member
Current specs are:

CPU: i7 950 OC to 4ghz and Hyper212 Cooler
GPU: AMD 6950
MOBO: ASUS P6X58D-E
RAM: 6GB GSKILL
PSU: Corsair HX850
HDD: Crucial M4 128gb
CASE: Corsair Obsidian 650D

Would swapping out the 6950 with a GTX 780 ti be a bad idea? Hoping to run current games with max settings around 60fps at 1080p.

Edit: Added current GPU
 
ok, I'm about to put together my new PC, just wondering about my games on STEAM...do I have to do anything special? or can i just re-download everything on my new PC?
 

kharma45

Member
Current specs are:

CPU: i7 950 OC to 4ghz and Hyper212 Cooler
GPU: AMD 6950
MOBO: ASUS P6X58D-E
RAM: 6GB GSKILL
PSU: Corsair HX850
HDD: Crucial M4 128gb
CASE: Corsair Obsidian 650D

Would swapping out the 6950 with a GTX 780 ti be a bad idea? Hoping to run current games with max settings around 60fps at 1080p.

Edit: Added current GPU

Nope it'd be a considerable upgrade.
 

Gaz_RB

Member
Current specs are:

CPU: i7 950 OC to 4ghz and Hyper212 Cooler
GPU: AMD 6950
MOBO: ASUS P6X58D-E
RAM: 6GB GSKILL
PSU: Corsair HX850
HDD: Crucial M4 128gb
CASE: Corsair Obsidian 650D

Would swapping out the 6950 with a GTX 780 ti be a bad idea? Hoping to run current games with max settings around 60fps at 1080p.

Edit: Added current GPU

It'd be quite the upgrade.
 
So, I'm looking to get a new PC and start off completely from scratch. Reason being is that as of now I've just been using the general family computer and I'll be moving out within the year, so I'd rather get all of this out of the way before rather than after. Give or take, I have about $1300 in savings to put towards the computer itself and a little extra towards peripherals, and I was looking to use the $1030 Excellent model as a base. My current computer's a dinosaur and literally anything would be an upgrade, but in particular I'm looking to go with 16GB of RAM and to possibly upgrade to the i7 CPU. The biggest technical hurdle is that the computer would be used for music production, and some of the recommended requirements for modern software instrument plugins are getting nuts. In addition, while I'm not really a PC gamer, I'm working on developing a pretty minimalist (and by extension, not too technically demanding) FPS that'll naturally start out on PC as far as development goes.

Keep in mind I have virtually no prior experience and no idea what I'm doing - can someone try and run me through this process in the most absolute, basic terms? With regards to peripherals, I really only need a 1080p monitor, a cheap keyboard and I can buy a cheap mouse myself.
 

Chozolore

Member
so chaps, it's time to build a pc. I've never done it before, but here we are. I'm not scared, just don't know what buy. I have a gtx770 in mind, is that right?

what motherboard,
what processor,
what case,
power supply?
compatability?


budget ~1000 gbp sans monitor

decisions decisions....
 

soultron

Banned
Mind linking which one you bought? I'm looking into getting one myself.
On my phone right now so it's not easy for me to link, but it's the BenQ XL2420TE 24" (I think that's the one) for $300 CAD at a computer supply store grand opening, it was one of their door crasher specials. $140 off MSRP but it's also a bit of an older model, so it tends to go on sale often.
 

soultron

Banned
My hypothetical rig has spiralled in budget, from £200 or so to £400. The 8350 and gtx 660 2gb are alone over £200. :(
Wait for a 660 to go on sale or get a MIR discount. I got my ASUS GTX660 (2GB) for 180 and it's back up to 230 to 250 now. Also, you can check used CARDS.
 

coughlanio

Member
I have seen many reviews, one from tek syndicate if I recall ", which said the 8350 does not get enough respect. Not only for its price but it's performance.

8350 is fine for the price, but probably better off getting the 8320 if you plan on overclocking.

Put that extra few bucks towards a GPU.
 

Bleepey

Member
8350 is fine for the price, but probably better off getting the 8320 if you plan on overclocking.

Put that extra few bucks towards a GPU.

I don't know a damn thing about OCing. I am not sure whether to buy a bundle or to buy individually cos it's pretty close. Also the difference between 8350 and 8320 is about £30. I'll pay the premium if it's that much better.
 

kharma45

Member
I don't know a damn thing about OCing. I am not sure whether to buy a bundle or to buy individually cos it's pretty close. Also the difference between 8350 and 8320 is about £30. I'll pay the premium if it's that much better.

Bundles usually include poor motherboards.

Neither of those CPUs are worth getting for a gaming system.
 

jarosh

Member
@jarosh: I'm not an electrician or anything, but is it possible that the new CPU cooler has fluctuations in its power draw (and draws more power than your old cooler), that pushes the circuit in your kitchen over its max rating? Try unplugging some devices in your kitchen like the kettle and see if that works. I believe lots of devices hold electric current even if they're not on but are plugged in.

This is all 100% guesswork on my part, however. I'm probably hilariously incorrect on all of it.

Only just saw your reply... Hm. Yeah, my immediate guess would have been something like that too. But also a fairly uninformed guess. If I *do* leave the kettle in the kitchen unplugged, everything is fine and dandy, yeah. So I could just... not use the kettle ever again? lol? How a 120 mm fan vs. the older 90 mm fan would tip the scale though, I'm not entirely clear on. I've also had more devices hooked up on this circuit in the past and that was never a problem.


If anyone else wants to weigh in, here's my post again:

uh-oh, I hope you guys can help me out again :'(

As I'd mentioned, I upgraded my heatsink. Bought an Arctic Freezer i30. Installation was a breeze and it took care of my CPU temperature problem. Now sitting at 30°.

However, ever since I installed the new heatsink we have a problem with the electricity going out in the kitchen and the office (where the computer is). Both rooms are on the same circuit breaker. There's no sign of any problem with the computer itself, but on the first night the power went out and I couldn't reset the breaker switch until I unplugged the computer. Everything was fine yesterday, but plugging in and starting the electric kettle in the kitchen today caused another short circuit or overload. It seems that as long as EITHER that kettle or the computer is unplugged, everything's fine. But it also seems obvious that somehow the new heatsink/fan would have to be the cause of this, as we've never had any trouble with the power going out like this before. Also, every time this happens I HAVE to unplug the computer or else the breaker switch can't be reset. But then it all works fine again as long as I leave the kettle in the kitchen unplugged...

The heatsink's fan is plugged into the same CPU FAN slot on the mobo as the old one, so I'd assume it would still draw the same power. It even runs at a much lower rpm than the old fan now. And the heatsink itself shouldn't really affect anything voltage wise anyway, it just absorbs heat and doesn't require electricity.

Does anyone have any idea what might be going on here?
 

coughlanio

Member
I don't know a damn thing about OCing. I am not sure whether to buy a bundle or to buy individually cos it's pretty close. Also the difference between 8350 and 8320 is about £30. I'll pay the premium if it's that much better.

You should look at getting the i5-4440, should be about the same price, and a decent H87 motherboard. Will perform alot better than the 8320/50.
 

kharma45

Member
so chaps, it's time to build a pc. I've never done it before, but here we are. I'm not scared, just don't know what buy. I have a gtx770 in mind, is that right?

what motherboard,
what processor,
what case,
power supply?
compatability?


budget ~1000 gbp sans monitor

decisions decisions....

This gives you room to play with to say get a Gold rated PSU like the Cosair RM or a different CPU cooler

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£163.94 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£25.95 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£121.00 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (£95.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£43.50 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card (£238.52 @ Scan.co.uk)
Case: NZXT H230 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (£56.68 @ Scan.co.uk)
Other: Crucial BLT2CP4G3D1869DT1TX0CEU Tactical 8GB Kit (4GBx2), Ballistix 240-pin DIMM, DDR3-1866 PC3-14900 Memory Module (£59.99)
Other: Be Quiet! Pure Power L8 530W Power Supply (£60.36)
Total: £865.92
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-01 21:14 GMT+0000)

You could also change the GPU to an R9 290 as well within your budget, they're around £330 or so like this ASUS one with BF4 http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/...tm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=PCPartPicker

It's a very power hungry card though and whilst that Be Quiet! should be enough you could move up to a good 650w for it and still come within budget. All depends on what you want to spend.
 

Pachimari

Member
You're looking for standoff screws first; these get screwed into the case and then the mobo gets mounted on them. Do a Google image search and you'll be able to visually identify them. They should have come with your case.

install the motherboard risers in your case that correspond with the holes on your mobo. Some cases have these pre-installed like the Corsair Carbride 300. Next, install the IO shield (usb plugs, LAN, audio part on the back of the case). Next, angel your mobo in so that you slide into the IO shield. Then screw the mobo into the risers. Make sure no part of the case is actually touching the mobo, just the risers and the IO shield.

It says that I should install the Intel Backplate on the back of my motherboard, but it doesn't fit. =/ I also can't get the IO shield to sit tight in its place.


I'm starting to get a feeling of giving up but I have to do this. :) But I'm really stuck.

EDIT:
OH! I can move them, so it fits now haha. :D
 
It says that I should install the Intel Backplate on the back of my motherboard, but it doesn't fit. =/ I also can't get the IO shield to sit tight in its place.



I'm starting to get a feeling of giving up but I have to do this. :) But I'm really stuck.

Are you sure your using the correct socket holes? (on the backplate) For you it seems like the closest one in should be it.
 

kharma45

Member
It says that I should install the Intel Backplate on the back of my motherboard, but it doesn't fit. =/ I also can't get the IO shield to sit tight in its place.



I'm starting to get a feeling of giving up but I have to do this. :) But I'm really stuck.

Are you sure your using the correct socket holes? For you it seems like the closest one in should be it.

Yeah you must be using the wrong hole. 1150 and 1155 are the same mounts so look at this article http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/50..._edition_liquid_cpu_cooler_review/index7.html

5089_27_corsair_hydro_series_h60_2012_edition_liquid_cpu_cooler_review.jpg
 

kharma45

Member
lol just saw your edit, glad you got it sorted now.

You'll find with PC building your first time you'll make silly little mistakes like this and feel like an arse when you realise the solution is usually simple :p
 

Pachimari

Member
lol just saw your edit, glad you got it sorted now.

You'll find with PC building your first time you'll make silly little mistakes like this and feel like an arse when you realise the solution is usually simple :p

Yeah and I'm also getting stuck all the time. My big problem now is, I don't know how to mount the motherboard to the case, but someone mentioned I should have standoff screws but I don't think I got any with my case. But I have a lot screws from the motherboard package.

Because, I need to install the Corsair H60 pump onto the motherboard now, but it's complicated if I have to hold the motherboard in one hand. So I think I should mount it first?

Edit:
I see now, that the box with all the screws came with my case.
 

b0bbyJ03

Member
Just finished my first build and in the process i made some mistakes. I bought an H77m with a 3570k and after putting it all together i found out I can't overclock H77 boards. im trying to figure out what to do cause i already spent a good amount of money and would rather fix things now if I have to... one of the games i would like to play the most is Battlefield 4 on ultra settings @ 60fps (consistently) or better. Anyone have any idea what type of frame rates i can expect with a gtx 780 and a 3570k no OC. Will I need to OC to get a major boost in frame rate or will the processor not bottleneck my performance? any advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks
 

Pachimari

Member
I found the motherboard standoff screws! But my other problem is still, that I don't know how to get the IO shield to fit tight. =/

Edit:
Fixed it! This is starting to get fun again. :)
 

maneil99

Member
I found the motherboard standoff screws! But my other problem is still, that I don't know how to get the IO shield to fit tight. =/

What Motherboard and Case? It should 'Pop" in. The IO shield should have a groove that goes along it, put one side in properly then push the otherside in
 

maneil99

Member
Just finished my first build and in the process i made some mistakes. I bought an H77m with a 3570k and after putting it all together i found out I can't overclock H77 boards. im trying to figure out what to do cause i already spent a good amount of money and would rather fix things now if I have to... one of the games i would like to play the most is Battlefield 4 on ultra settings @ 60fps (consistently) or better. Anyone have any idea what type of frame rates i can expect with a gtx 780 and a 3570k no OC. Will I need to OC to get a major boost in frame rate or will the processor not bottleneck my performance? any advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks

It will bottleneck your GPU in Multiplayer but 60 FPS is attainable. I run the game maxed with 4xAA 1920x1200 HBAO on and get 60-110 fps. Only dips in death cams for some reason, however my game is also suffering from a widespread glitch that causes the foliage to never render at Ultra but rather at medium. All the settings are inversed but draw distances the same therefor its impossible to reach perfect IQ. I have a 3570k and a 780 GTX. I get maxed out CPU usage and around 95%~ usage in most occasions, however I am running it at 4.7ghz

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=724153&highlight=
 

Pachimari

Member
What Motherboard and Case? It should 'Pop" in. The IO shield should have a groove that goes along it, put one side in properly then push the otherside in

Yeah I did this. It worked. :)

But are these the screws for mounting the motherboard to the case?
I have 9 motherboard standoffs and 9 motherboard screws. The standoffs don't seem to fit, but if I use the screws, 4 of them won't grab.


My setup is this:

 
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