Ah yea. Good thinking. Will just get that USB installer and pickup a key there.
Maybe the $60 I save him there can talk him into getting a 750 TI.
Edit: Sweet he will get a 750 Ti now.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Ah yea. Good thinking. Will just get that USB installer and pickup a key there.
Maybe the $60 I save him there can talk him into getting a 750 TI.
Edit: Sweet he will get a 750 Ti now.
davepoobond
you can't put a price on sparks
alright finally got the rig going, and i did the auto overclocking stuff that came on the ASUS motherboard disc.
i dont really know what to expect from the overclocking stuff, so right now it seems the following happened:
Base clock is up 100 mhz
all the cores are up to about "45" (whatever that value is)
i dont really know what to expect from the overclocking stuff, so right now it seems the following happened:
Base clock is up 100 mhz
all the cores are up to about "45" (whatever that value is)
I wouldn't. Just overclock it if you haven't done so.
Maybe you could cut down the price by a bit if you switch to a case that has an included power supply.
if he's doing a USB install you could also drop the DVD drive.
I couldn't find a nice M-ATX case that came with a modular power supply. I did find some cheaper cases, but the PCs I build tend to use nicer cases and modular power supply for tidyness.
http://neogaf.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=102779444
Wish I could drop that DVD drive. He still needs one I guess. Not yet ready to embrace the disk-less future.
Yeah I did this. It worked.
But are these the screws for mounting the motherboard to the case?
I have 9 motherboard standoffs and 9 motherboard screws. The standoffs don't seem to fit, but if I use the screws, 4 of them won't grab.
Doesn't look like a standoff. Standoffs screw into the case and have a hole in them so that the motherboard can sit on top and the screw can then tighten the motherboard to the standoff. The case I bought came with a socket to screw the standoff in place using a philips screwdriver.
case > standoff > washer(sometimes) > mobo > screw
^Edit: Did you put in all 9 standoffs? Looks like an ATX case and board so those should go in, except maybe the top right one you circled.
maneil99
Member
If you don't use standoffs you will short circuit your computer
Those are not standoffs. Those are just M/B screws. I tried with a M/B standoff but it didn't seem to grab onto the case.
I guess I gotta use these to mount the motherboard?
Also these is my ports:
I am so confused. Enthusiasts differ from experts, I look at benchmarks that claim the 8350 is pretty decent and the comparable i5s are not worth the additional expense. Fuck this shit, I am lower than a console gaming peasant, I am a smartphone/ tablet browsing pond scum. I tried to ascend to be part of the master race but honestly the investment in time and conflicting info is too much for me, when you look down at the rest of a try not to piss on us too much with your cutting edge graphics, steam sales and free online.
Which benchmarks?
The 8350 can perform well in n threaded games but few of those exist. Strong single thread performance still rules in PC gaming and Intel is king in that regard. Although you can overclock any AMD CPU it still cannot overcome their poor IPC and they consume a lot of power doing so. Plus you're stuck on an old AM3+ platform too if you go for an 8350 and you have no upgrade path whatsoever.
Yeah it sits on top of those and then you screw it in with the other screws.
When they build these things they simply have a machine drill screw holes and then toss in a pack of screws with the cases, sometimes they don't always perfectly align and screw in easily. You may have to force them a bit and then they usually finish screwing in smoothly. Be careful but it's worth it to try again. Also make sure you have the right holes on the case.
Thank you very much for the reply, i've been googling a lot about this and didn't once come across pcpartpicker, usually just outdated build guides.
is r9 290 a much better option? tbh I aimed at the gtx 770 because nvidia seem to make the hierachy less confusing than amd, it was easier to see where it fit in if that makes sense.
CPUboss stuff comparing it to various i5 chips.
The Shadow
Member
Current Specs:
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600
2 x 2GB DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3R LGA 775 Intel P35
Radeon HD 4870 512MB
Antec Earthwatts 500W
Antec Performance One P180B Black
SanDisk Extreme SSD 120 GB SATA 6.0
Budget:
~$1000US - This is flexible as we got a huge tax return
Light Gaming - 4
Gaming - 4
Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 4
Video Editing - 1
Streaming games in HD - 1
General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 5 (probably the bulk)
Monitor Resolution:
1920 x 1080 - I may upgrade later but I'm satisfied with my current monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
Preference for 60 fps. No real desire for PhysX or CUDA. If I can run apps at the native res of my monitor at a decent framerate, I don't feel like anti-aliasing is all that important. I tend to use it if I'm running below native res.
Personally, I'd love to build another PC that could last me as long as my current rig.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Sandisk Extreme SSD, Earthwatts 500W (if possible).
When will you build?: No deadline, but I'd like to make one soon-ish.
Will you be overclocking?: No. Don't have the time to troubleshoot. Unless it's an easy and reliable OC like the Q6600, I won't.
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600
2 x 2GB DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3R LGA 775 Intel P35
Radeon HD 4870 512MB
Antec Earthwatts 500W
Antec Performance One P180B Black
SanDisk Extreme SSD 120 GB SATA 6.0
Budget:
~$1000US - This is flexible as we got a huge tax return
Light Gaming - 4
Gaming - 4
Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 4
Video Editing - 1
Streaming games in HD - 1
General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 5 (probably the bulk)
Monitor Resolution:
1920 x 1080 - I may upgrade later but I'm satisfied with my current monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
Preference for 60 fps. No real desire for PhysX or CUDA. If I can run apps at the native res of my monitor at a decent framerate, I don't feel like anti-aliasing is all that important. I tend to use it if I'm running below native res.
Personally, I'd love to build another PC that could last me as long as my current rig.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Sandisk Extreme SSD, Earthwatts 500W (if possible).
When will you build?: No deadline, but I'd like to make one soon-ish.
Will you be overclocking?: No. Don't have the time to troubleshoot. Unless it's an easy and reliable OC like the Q6600, I won't.
I have now combined the 2 screws but I can only manage to get 1 unto the case, I really don't understand why I can't get them to grab unto the case. =/
Delt31
Member
week in with my new rig (3570 and gtx 670) and I'm really impressed on how it handles games. 1080p and 60fps on ultra works 95% of the time, including BF4 - this is on a over clock of 4.4 btw - temps never exceed 50 with the corsair air cooler H80 - amazing difference than stock which got up to 75, without over clock!. I'm new to PC gaming and I CAN"T BELIEVE how good these games look. Even older games - like MK, look amazing. Any other amazing ports that need to be replayed on PC?
davepoobond
you can't put a price on sparks
mad, my case had standoff screws like those. you should be able to put those brass standoffs into the case directly first and then put the motherboard on top of it, and then screw the screw through the hole and into the standoff and secure it that way.
the standoff should not have to go through the motherboard, the motherboard sits on top of the standoffs.
the standoff should not have to go through the motherboard, the motherboard sits on top of the standoffs.
VisceralBowl
Member
You put the second screw on when the motherboard is sitting on the first screw. Thats how you hold it down.
That's why then. Terrible benchmark. Check places like pcper and tech report instead.
PCP is great, as is this http://techreport.com/review/26082/tr-february-2014-system-guide but our OP is better again, no bias intended. I disagree with a few selections in the TR one.
Performance wise the R9 290 sits here against the 770 roughly
That's stock to stock though.
BeekleMatter
Member
Yeah, and now I have another problem. ONE of the screws won't come off of the standoff, so I guess I gotta pick up a tool tomorrow.
davepoobond
you can't put a price on sparks
i use Klipsch THX speakers for my computer. 2.1. Very good quality and gets very loud.
It was about 150 bucks way back when i bought them. You can probably get something better in the same price range nowadays maybe?
Can you provide a link?
PSU you should be able to re-use fine unless you want to go modular? As for overclocking it's much easier than the Q6600 as you've no base clock to play with. It's just the voltage and multiplier really.
At worst you could go for this, plenty of room in your budget to improve on stuff
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.96 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi Z87X 3D ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($259.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT H230 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Microcenter)
Total: $834.87
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-01 18:36 EST-0500)
I found a retail fx 8350 black on " close out" (no idea why....not open box) for $125 in store.That's about $60 cheaper than I've seen it anywhere else. This is making up the heart of my wife's multipurpose machine ( photo work, office stuff, and mmo gaming..nothing real taxing), built about a month ago, right now. It handles itself fine, considering the price. Playing a couple high profile mmo betas this weekend like a charm....and she's not likely to play anything more taxing.
If you're looking for a true gaming machine, though, unless you find something oddball like the deal above (and maybe even then)...I'd go with intel. $ for $, it's usually much better performance in the I-5 line (which is price comparable), even at a lower top clock. Pretty much all the benchmarks put the betel chips ahead.
The 8350s are better than previous amd chips....but they still eat a lot of power and they underperform the comparable intel chips at the same price point. If you're married to it...they work. But yours not going to see them recommended much around here.
SpeedFan has been removed from the OP for a reason because it misleads people and is inaccurate. Almost want to put a disclaimer.Ok, I get it, that makes more sense actually
Welcome.
Don't bring up that lying motherfucker and that 'review' up here ever again. 0 repeatable benchmarks without saying how he tested with results that are impossible by the laws of physics in the universe. Even worse is the 'omg AMD yes Intel conspiracy moneyhats' that /r/buildaPC dickrode while downvoting literally anything that countered that point.
Fuck him and fuck TekSyndicate.
Sounds like bad wiring in the CPU fan, your wall connection, or your kitchen connection and kettle. Swap the CPU fan out is the cheapest option and work from there. You may want to buy a cheap plugin wire fault detector as well.
The load of a PC fan is ~3W so it seems highly improbable that pure draw is them problem.
MidgarBlowedUp
Member
Intel is the way to go, but if you are trying to do a shoestring budget gaming build you might be ok with an AMD FX6300 since they are lower wattage (95) and should if you don't' plan to overclock you can probably find a good mobo for like $50.
The issue is, going the AMD route is kind of like no matter what you build it's going to be on it's last legs.
The even lower TDP i3 (54w) still outperforms it in almost everything though.
Standoffs go directly into the case. All 9 of them, looking at your motherboard. Not into the holes in the mobo...into the case, itself.
Then, set the motherboard on TOP of those standoffs, lining them up underneath the holes on your mobo.
Then use the black screws, which will screw into the standoffs that are underneath. Basically making a motherboard sandwhich: Standoff, motherboard, black screws.
Yeah, and now I have another problem. ONE of the screws won't come off of the standoff, so I guess I gotta pick up a tool tomorrow.
I've had this happen. Grab a pair of blunt nosed pliers to grip the standoff...use screwdriver to remove screw.
Looking for some quick thoughts on the Asus MX279H monitor. My buddy bought it last year and is getting a dell from his brother so he's offering to sell it to me cheap, about $150. I'm in the market for a monitor since I'm building a PC next week. I do a decent amount of gaming and that's my main worry with the monitor, though I'm willing to sacrifice performance for visuals. Would this be ok or would I be better off buying something else?
http://www.asus.com/Monitors_Projectors/MX279H/
http://www.asus.com/Monitors_Projectors/MX279H/
I agree 100%!
What is the most sickening is all the people that took his crap as gospel and shitted on anyone that pointed out that he was wrong!
TC McQueen
Member
Are there any tricks for getting Cooler Master fan screws to go in straight with new fans? Because the damn things never handscrew in properly and I don't want to get a power tool to drill the damn things in.
The fans are not threaded so you have to force them in. Get a thick handled screwdriver. It'll help.
Tip I got from this thread, actually.
Stealthcobra
Member
is this setup possible and what would i need?
I want a gaming pc, thats some what compact to fit near my gaming tv. Also I want it to hook up to my plasma through hdmi.. But I also want a wireless connection to a monitor at my desk for when i need to do some work. I'm hoping that it detects my monitor when i want to work...or my tv when i want to game..and i don't want to have to do any type of settings adjustment. since my wife and kids would be using it for doing homework or what ever.
What would i need to make the above happen and still have a pretty good gaming machine...doesnt have to be top of the line..but hopefully something that really really good..but not overly expensive. I envision that when i sit down to play a pc game that it just works..i dont want to have to switch it off the monitor...but just play.
so please let me know everything i need. i'd like to build this asap.
I want a gaming pc, thats some what compact to fit near my gaming tv. Also I want it to hook up to my plasma through hdmi.. But I also want a wireless connection to a monitor at my desk for when i need to do some work. I'm hoping that it detects my monitor when i want to work...or my tv when i want to game..and i don't want to have to do any type of settings adjustment. since my wife and kids would be using it for doing homework or what ever.
What would i need to make the above happen and still have a pretty good gaming machine...doesnt have to be top of the line..but hopefully something that really really good..but not overly expensive. I envision that when i sit down to play a pc game that it just works..i dont want to have to switch it off the monitor...but just play.
so please let me know everything i need. i'd like to build this asap.
MidgarBlowedUp
Member
That's impressive.
So, it looks like the cheapest option then, would be the g3220 build on the front page.
Yes, take a look at the ITX part of the OP.
There is actually one good pre-built too, the Alienware X51. Some good Dell outlet deals on it usually.
Only thing is the connection to your monitor that's a bit of a distance away, you'll likely have to run a cable for it.
That Pentium is OK but I'd stretch to the i3 if possible.
MidgarBlowedUp
Member
It just dawned on me how low wattage a setup with the G3220 and a 750ti would be. Sure, it won't be all that powerful but, damn that's crazy low wattage.
Stealthcobra
Member
thanks...and this setup would allow me to run (most) new games at max settings?
It doesn't really work like that... There are a lot of factors in play. Budget, what your personal definition of 'max settings' is (there are lots of settings that don't do much for the image quality but cost a huge amount in performance), how willing you are to do upgrades later.
We can't tell the future and things may change in a year. Or they may not. The last three years have been very stagnant for huge gains in the hardware department. The easiest way to have a 'future proof' computer is to have one that upgrades easily and didn't cost too much to begin with. My personal philosophy is that it is better to spend $250 now and $250 later when the initial $250 feels slow than to spend $500 now and have it be slow eventually anyway.
So. Maybe? Depending on what you want to spend and what specific games you like to play.
Charrettizard
Member
I'm building a new computer and I just finished installing the parts but have run into an issue that I can't just quite seem to figure out: my PC isn't turning on when I hit the power switch. The motherboard is showing a green light -indicating it's on standby and the motherboard is receiving some kind of power, I think - but nothing happens when I hit the power button. I'm confused because my fans, which are plugged directly into the power supply, aren't turning on as well. I also have checked to see if those one-pin connectors (LED, reset switch, power switch) are plugged in correctly, and I believe they are.
Does anyone have any solutions? What am I missing? Do I have a bad power supply?
Does anyone have any solutions? What am I missing? Do I have a bad power supply?
- Status