CrunchyFrog
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Saints fan?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Saints fan?
Coreda
Member
Reminds me of the Thermaltake Level 10 case.
TheFLYINGManga_Ka
Member
So I take it that coil whining is normal for new cards, right? Will it go away after awhile?
So as long as I don't hear it at idle and only when it's in load, should be fine? I only heard it during a stress test and on a menu screen on Witcher 2.
Should be okay, but just asking to make sure.
So as long as I don't hear it at idle and only when it's in load, should be fine? I only heard it during a stress test and on a menu screen on Witcher 2.
Should be okay, but just asking to make sure.
http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameratesBeen messing around with my asus vg248qe. Tried out lightboost with the ToastX app and I'm having a hard time seeing a difference between 120hz strobed vs 144hz unstrobed.
Check those out.
That's essentially from your GPU working crazy fast, outputting frames to 200+ FPS. It'll exist in menus always unless you put a frame limit on it.
TheFLYINGManga_Ka
Member
Ok. As long as there's nothing wrong, I won't worry about it.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Damn so looks shadowplay and supersampling dont mix.
I figured I'd capture video at 720p with 4x supersampling for the best picture quality when uploaded to youtube but the videos come out super crazy and stretched.
I figured I'd capture video at 720p with 4x supersampling for the best picture quality when uploaded to youtube but the videos come out super crazy and stretched.
ShyGuy0504
Member
Are there any relatively cheap wireless mouse and keyboards with good range? I recently bought a 60" tv and would love to play Skyrim on it without using a controller.
I'm sitting about 12 feet from my pc but my mouse and keyboard can't keep a connection. Any suggestions?
I'm sitting about 12 feet from my pc but my mouse and keyboard can't keep a connection. Any suggestions?
Yes you will
Yeah I'm still not seeing much of a difference. I'm trying the different brightness precentages and they don't seem to have an affect either.
I've also tried just smooth scrolling in chrome and it looks the same. Not sure what the problem is. Does the strobe brightness decrease the actual brightness of the monitor? It doesn't change so I'm guessing that's the issues. I've seen that setting it to 10% makes a visible difference but mine seems to be stuck at 100%.
TheFLYINGManga_Ka
Member
ss_lemonade
Member
You would know if you're using lightboost by going to your monitor's OSD menu. You should see red text indicating that your monitor is in 3d mode and the only setting you can adjust would be the lightboost brightness setting there. You should also see a rather huge drop in color quality (its what I noticed)Been messing around with my asus vg248qe. Tried out lightboost with the ToastX app and I'm having a hard time seeing a difference between 120hz strobed vs 144hz unstrobed.
Hmm my monitor has the LightBoost option grayed out. Guess it isn't enabled.
I have the strobelight beta4 enabled and my monitor goes to 120hz so I figured it was running properly.
Nervous Sausage
Member
Does anyone think it's worth me selling my GTX 680SOC and getting an AMD Radeon R9 290? Looks like I can get one of those for cheaper than I bought my 680 for last year.
Meh, nto worth.
Nononono, don't do it. Stick with the 680 until 20nm or "16"nm Maxwell. Plus you would lose all the Nvidia software.
I'm getting a bit antsy about my PC (UK). Currently sitting on a:
CPU: Q9550
MB: Ip35 Pro
RAM: 6GB DDR2
GPU: 4870x2
PSU: Corsair TX650w
27" iiyama @ 1900x1200
Obviously it's getting a bit long in the tooth and games aren't playing smoothly any more. I go through phases of wanting to upgrade before talking myself out of it. Last week I was thinking of just replacing the case (want a Haf XB or Corsair carbide 540) but then I started thinking about how my IP35 doesn't have USB3 support and how presumably that means I wouldn't be able to use any of the ports?
So that leads me on to thinking about a new motherboard (and processor and RAM). I've done some reading and can't see anything about Broadwell coming out soon. I presume that if I was to buy now the new chips would still be 4+ months away? Most people would say to wait for Skylake over Broadwell anyway right?
I guess part of me is reluctant to upgrade knowing that new CPUs and DDR4 are right on the horizon. But while I could wait 4 months I don't really want to stretch on for a year/2 years.
I presume most people would say that an upgrade would be justified but to temper the amount I spend in case I want to jump to DDR4?
If I was to upgrade I have the savings to go all out if I wanted to (though I'm not really wanting to spend more than £1000 for everything). In terms of general future-proofing would an i7 be worth stretching for, or should I just overclock an i5?
Would a new GPU give me a lot of extra power?
If I was to go for an i7/290X level build would it be best to go for a new power supply, ~800W? I wouldn't mind something modular for of finally having a tidy case...
Thanks guys.
tl;dr - would most people suggest dropping the cash on an upgrade and would that include a new GPU?
CPU: Q9550
MB: Ip35 Pro
RAM: 6GB DDR2
GPU: 4870x2
PSU: Corsair TX650w
27" iiyama @ 1900x1200
Obviously it's getting a bit long in the tooth and games aren't playing smoothly any more. I go through phases of wanting to upgrade before talking myself out of it. Last week I was thinking of just replacing the case (want a Haf XB or Corsair carbide 540) but then I started thinking about how my IP35 doesn't have USB3 support and how presumably that means I wouldn't be able to use any of the ports?
So that leads me on to thinking about a new motherboard (and processor and RAM). I've done some reading and can't see anything about Broadwell coming out soon. I presume that if I was to buy now the new chips would still be 4+ months away? Most people would say to wait for Skylake over Broadwell anyway right?
I guess part of me is reluctant to upgrade knowing that new CPUs and DDR4 are right on the horizon. But while I could wait 4 months I don't really want to stretch on for a year/2 years.
I presume most people would say that an upgrade would be justified but to temper the amount I spend in case I want to jump to DDR4?
If I was to upgrade I have the savings to go all out if I wanted to (though I'm not really wanting to spend more than £1000 for everything). In terms of general future-proofing would an i7 be worth stretching for, or should I just overclock an i5?
Would a new GPU give me a lot of extra power?
If I was to go for an i7/290X level build would it be best to go for a new power supply, ~800W? I wouldn't mind something modular for of finally having a tidy case...
Thanks guys.
tl;dr - would most people suggest dropping the cash on an upgrade and would that include a new GPU?
Okay figured out the issue. For some reason I set it to my 60hz monitor. Everything seems to work and I see the crisp difference.
However that just made me realize that the r9 270 + 4770k that I got for my dad is running csgo better than my gtx770 + i7 920. And while starting the comp up today I got some error on my overclock so it got defaulted. D:
They don't exist.
Edit: Oh at least 24", some of the korean ones can be overclocked, and the overlord ones.
Put this together. I would love to bring the cost down a little bit- is there a real difference between a 2gig and a 4gig 770? I would also like a wireless card for this- could anyone reccomend one that isn't that expensive?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial M500 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($86.95 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 770 4GB Video Card ($389.99)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($42.22)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($66.98)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($21.95 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($10.00)
Monitor: Asus VS229H-P 21.5" Monitor ($149.68 @ Amazon)
Total: $1197.73
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-01-07 21:46 EST-0500)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial M500 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($86.95 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 770 4GB Video Card ($389.99)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($42.22)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($66.98)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($21.95 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($10.00)
Monitor: Asus VS229H-P 21.5" Monitor ($149.68 @ Amazon)
Total: $1197.73
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-01-07 21:46 EST-0500)
QuickSilverD
Member
Hello Guys, could you help me select some decent parts for a Gaming PC I would like to build. Please take into consideration that I have never really done this of buying PC parts before, my current selection is based around what I understand is a good compromise between price and performance.
First thing to note is that I will not be overclocking anything as I don´t want the machine to consume too much power. Tell me what you think of this:
CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($180 @ Amazon)
Video Card: ASUS R9270-DC2OC-2GD5 Graphics Cards ($180 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($80 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($80 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60 @ Amazon)
Case: Undecided
Power Supply: Undecided
Optical Drive: Undecided
Operating System: Undecided
Not counting the OS, Monitor and other accessories I was looking to spend something in the realm of 700 USD, but I´m open to suggestions
First thing to note is that I will not be overclocking anything as I don´t want the machine to consume too much power. Tell me what you think of this:
CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($180 @ Amazon)
Video Card: ASUS R9270-DC2OC-2GD5 Graphics Cards ($180 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($80 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($80 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60 @ Amazon)
Case: Undecided
Power Supply: Undecided
Optical Drive: Undecided
Operating System: Undecided
Not counting the OS, Monitor and other accessories I was looking to spend something in the realm of 700 USD, but I´m open to suggestions
I sold my 680 for £220. Price is dropping off a bit so I recouped costs while I could. Have the money sitting in the bank waiting to hear on Maxwell or will just buy a 780. If you want to recoup some of the costs I say you should sell. 680 is phased out.
Difference is if you add in some extra textures or higher than 1080p resolutions 2GB may not cut it on some future titles or very graphical heavyweights. AKA you go from 50FPS to 20FPS.
I'd suggest the 760 for value and upping the CPU and mobo to a 4670K and Z87 and overclocking. Dunno if you will, or what you are expecting out of the rig.
See: OP builds.
$580 build + i5 + Z87 mobo
Shameful
I'm building this instead of buying a PS4 or XONE. Want to play Titanfall and Witcher 3 at something better than the consoles will do. I don't want to overclock. Do you still recommend the 760?
But they're so comfortable...
I'm just going to buy a clip-on for now and go back to my DT770s. I don't have the time or inclination to shop around for a new headset.
TheFLYINGManga_Ka
Member
Not really worrying but is coil whine a bad sign of a bad GPu or is it quite normal?
It's fairly common.
You should be overclocking. The parts are designed for it and you get a 20-30% increase. The 770 is $100 more than a 760 but is only 10-15% faster. If that small a bump for the $100 is worth it to you then go for it...
I knew it
Are you suuuuuuuure you don't want to overclock? It's a pretty big boost for not a lot of $ and you won't need to upgrade forever because CPUs aren't getting faster.
The thing is a GTX760 is a great value purchase and a very quick card. At $350 a 770 or 280X that's 20% faster for $100 more depends on you and if you'll keep the card a while having over 2GB could be helpful at not running into any issues. If you look at system price as a whole it's easily to swallow the price. If you are SURE you don't want to OC then I'd get the better GPU.
See OP and pick one.But they're so comfortable...
I'm just going to buy a clip-on for now and go back to my DT770s. I don't have the time or inclination to shop around for a new headset.
My whole issue is that I've never done this before, and the only thing that seems scary is installing an aftermarket cooler. That seems like witchcraft to me!
I find the aftermarkets less annoying to install than the stock.
DDR4's first appearance will be on Haswell-E later this year, though the bottom-tier stuff will be $250-300 motherboards and a $330 6 core i7.
I'm iffy on whether or not an i7 is going to be worth it 5+ years out. I have a gut feeling it might, and I didn't mind that it was $100 more than the 4670K, so after 3 years of buying systems with the i5, I finally went for it this time around.
For an i7/290X system, you'd want the Seasonic G Series 650W listed in the OP. Total system draw will be around 450W, but it gives you a bit of breathing room and allows the PSU to run more efficiently.
A new GPU in your current system would definitely improve performance, but there's a number of titles that will be bottlenecked by your CPU. Multiplayer games, source games, UE3 games, Blizzard games, and some others.
Considering you've held on to your Core 2 Duo system as long as you have, I'd imagine you are the type of person that will do the same again with a new system. That being the case, SATA Express and DDR4 might be worth waiting for. I don't really know for sure.
We did just get a PCI-E revision with PCI-E 3.0, and the top of the line cards aren't even saturating half of that bandwidth, so you're good there. DDR3 is still really low latency with great bandwidth, especially with the ability to overclock as much as Haswell and Ivy allows (a lot, they have great IMCs). SSD's make using every part of my system a near instant experience, so I'm not even sure how much SATA Express is going to help out.
I think it's a great time to buy right now, but it's been consistently a great time to buy ever since SandyBridge came on the scene. I'd personally suggest you go for it, but I could understand someone wanting to wait.
No, Steam is insanely good about syncing all of that stuff. In fact, if you were to reformat your system, you could drag and drop the entire Steam folder, run the .exe, and it'll have everything fixed for you in a matter of minutes, without even having to reinstall it.
Doesn't exist. The closest you are going to get is an Eizo Foris FG2421, which is a VA panel with a semi-gloss AG coating, so the colors are gorgeous.
IPS natively has some issues going above 60Hz. Even for the monitors that can get there (QNIX, Catleap 22b, Overlord Tempest), it's not even a guarantee they can OC to 120Hz. If they're able to do that, there's a chance you'll get some weird stuff on screen like fuzziness or lines.
Really? I just gave you the answer above. It's from your GPU putting frames out at ridiculous paces. If you don't like it, put a frame limit of 120 on your system and it won't do it anymore.
Closed loop coolers? Yeah. CoolerMaster tower heatsinks? No fuckin' way.
Got the parts, put it together. Having some issues which I think I can figure out but one I've never seen.
So... This is weird. Had to restart to load some drivers. When I restarted my monitor said no signal. Leaving it on, I plugged the hdmi cable into the TV and the log in screen popped up. I then moved the cable from the TV to the monitor and it was able to get the signal.
What the fuck?
So... This is weird. Had to restart to load some drivers. When I restarted my monitor said no signal. Leaving it on, I plugged the hdmi cable into the TV and the log in screen popped up. I then moved the cable from the TV to the monitor and it was able to get the signal.
What the fuck?
Stranger things have happened. Be thankful you haven't had to sacrifice the blood of a small animal to the WiFi Gods yet. They're a fickle bunch.
Did you reformat?
What was your old motherboard that had to be replaced? Might need to reformat. Even if you don't need to, I'd suggest doing it to prevent future complications that might arise.
You can have the whole thing done in under an hour.
[mkenyon's Guide to Efficient Formatting/Windows Installation]
- Get an ISO of either Windows 7 or Windows 8.
- While the ISO is downloading, go to your motherboard manufacturer's website to the support section. Locate your motherboard and download the newest Chipset, Audio, USB 3.0, and LAN drivers. If your motherboard has unique features such as the ASUS RoG line, it's a good idea to get the drivers for those as well. Put those on a separate flash drive.
- Go to NVIDIA or AMD's website and download the latest videocard drivers. Put those on the same flash drive as the motherboard drivers.
- Next, download the Microsoft USB Installation utility. Use this to put Windows on a Flash Drive.
- If you are installing Windows 7, you'll need to take an extra step of allowing you to choose the proper SKU for installation, as the ISO is Ultimate by default. Once the utility is finished writing the ISO to your Flash Drive, open the drive in Windows Explorer, and locate the 'Sources' folder. In this folder is a file called 'ei.cfg'. Delete that.
- Next, start the PC with the Flash Drive plugged directly into your rear I/O. Upon boot, go into UEFI/BIOS, as you will need to set the Flash Drive to be the primary boot disk. Once this is completed, restart your system and begin installing Windows.
- Once you are in, go ahead an put the flash drive in with the drivers. Install those, and reboot.
- After you reboot, you should be able to run Windows Update, which will most likely install all of the remaining drivers as well as update Windows.
- When Windows Update finishes, you can go into Device Manager to check if there are any unrecognized devices. If there are, get the drivers for those from your motherboard manufacturer's website.
Coreda
Member
I've read the Crossover 27" Black Tune 2755AMG is commonly OC-able to 120hz using a single GPU (using SLI apparently reduces the effectiveness to ~80hz). The issue is it's a multi-input monitor so it drops frames at 120hz
Seems like a rather great monitor otherwise, apart from luck of the draw backlight bleeding common in some of the Korean monitors. Saw an incredibly detailed review of it here for anyone interested (with comparisons to QNIX, etc).
[mkenyon's Guide to Efficient Formatting/Windows Installation]
- Get an ISO of either Windows 7 or Windows 8.
- While the ISO is downloading, go to your motherboard manufacturer's website to the support section. Locate your motherboard and download the newest Chipset, Audio, USB 3.0, and LAN drivers. If your motherboard has unique features such as the ASUS RoG line, it's a good idea to get the drivers for those as well. Put those on a separate flash drive.
- Go to NVIDIA or AMD's website and download the latest videocard drivers. Put those on the same flash drive as the motherboard drivers.
- Next, download the Microsoft USB Installation utility. Use this to put Windows on a Flash Drive.
- If you are installing Windows 7, you'll need to take an extra step of allowing you to choose the proper SKU for installation, as the ISO is Ultimate by default. Once the utility is finished writing the ISO to your Flash Drive, open the drive in Windows Explorer, and locate the 'Sources' folder. In this folder is a file called 'ei.cfg'. Delete that.
- Next, start the PC with the Flash Drive plugged directly into your rear I/O. Upon boot, go into UEFI/BIOS, as you will need to set the Flash Drive to be the primary boot disk. Once this is completed, restart your system and begin installing Windows.
- Once you are in, go ahead an put the flash drive in with the drivers. Install those, and reboot.
- After you reboot, you should be able to run Windows Update, which will most likely install all of the remaining drivers as well as update Windows.
- When Windows Update finishes, you can go into Device Manager to check if there are any unrecognized devices. If there are, get the drivers for those from your motherboard manufacturer's website.
This is great, but I would warn people that the Microsoft USB installation tool only supports creating an MBR partition. This means to boot from a stick created by it, you probably have to put your UEFI motherboard into legacy/BIOS mode. If you install Windows in this mode, your system will have to remain in BIOS mode to boot and you lose benefits of UEFI/GPT. If you want Windows to be installed on a GPT partition and bootable in UEFI mode, use a tool like Rufus to create your install stick.
Woah, this is great!
I didn't know anything about it and I assumed I just had to go with the Win7 utility like I did years ago on my MacBook.
Thank you very much indeed!
That is just stupid, it should give you the choice of what mode to install it in if the motherboard supports it.
Hey Kharma45, thanks for the reply. Yeah I had a look at that card first since it was the cheapest 780. However, the other 2 cards perform much better out of the box on the benchmarks and for just £20 more the Zotac performs close to a 780 Ti. I know the MSi may perform at a similar level after over clocking, but there is no guarantee it will.
Anyone have experience of Zotac RMA?
@mkenyon - thanks for the break down! I was going to say I wasn't very interested in Haswell-E, but I suppose a 4770k is a similar price to that.
I'll have a look at the features I guess. Being able to support DDR4 does sound like a good idea, but I've heard mention of the early adoption prices and that initially they probably won't offer much speed over DDR3.
On top of what you've said, I've seen a couple of forum posts saying that a q9550 is still capable for gaming but that it might get bottlenecked with the faster cards. I think for now I'm going to think about getting a new GPU (the 4870x2 drives me insane with its noise!), an SSD and wait to see how the CPUs develop.
For the GPUs, have nvidia got new cards scheduled to come out soon or is it a good time to buy? Do you have a personal preference for AMD or nvidia atm?
I'll have a look at the features I guess. Being able to support DDR4 does sound like a good idea, but I've heard mention of the early adoption prices and that initially they probably won't offer much speed over DDR3.
On top of what you've said, I've seen a couple of forum posts saying that a q9550 is still capable for gaming but that it might get bottlenecked with the faster cards. I think for now I'm going to think about getting a new GPU (the 4870x2 drives me insane with its noise!), an SSD and wait to see how the CPUs develop.
For the GPUs, have nvidia got new cards scheduled to come out soon or is it a good time to buy? Do you have a personal preference for AMD or nvidia atm?
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