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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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scogoth

Member
Why does everyone want DDR4 right now? Is Sandra benchmarking the latest thing? RAM is so negligible for gaming I don't understand.
 

riflen

Member
Why does everyone want DDR4 right now? Is Sandra benchmarking the latest thing? RAM is so negligible for gaming I don't understand.

I think it's an exaggeration to say "everyone" wants DDR4 at the moment. The people interested are mostly those who've been holding on to their 1st-gen i7 or those who just love having the fastest stuff available. The E is for enthusiast!
 

JohnJJ

Neo Member
So... what is a good 'bang for buck' GPU upgrade for me?

I'm currently rocking a MSI gtx 580 Lightning OC.

In no rush for a new GPU right now, is the general consensus to wait for new Nvidia card details/prices?

My ultimate long term goal is to run Star Citizen, high settings at 60fps minimum @ 1080p (hopefully late 2014 early 2015). Apparently SC will take advantage of Mantle so I could switch to AMD if needed.

Short term I would like buttery smooth playability for Titan Fall, Witcher 3 and Elite Dangerous (maybe my current card will be enough).

I will be paring with an existing i5-2500k @4.4GHz.

Thanks
 

Asiriya

Neo Member
@scogoth - riflen is right, I'm still on a C2D and when I wanted to increase my RAM from 4GB I found that DDR2 seemed to be really expensive. I could just buy a lot of RAM now to cover me for the future, but holding on and getting new technologies on top of DDR4 also seems like something to consider.
 

scogoth

Member
My comment was a little tongue in cheek. I am one of those people who had C2D, then nehalem, now ivy, will probably build with broadwell. My point is holding out for Haswell-E for DDR4 is not going to be a good use of money for gaming. Spending the premium for X99 to get %1-2 better frame rates from DDR4 while being a CPU architecture behind doesn't really make sense. If you need 2+ GPUs, a workstation or have a lot of money to through into an overclocking machine for fun thats fine.
 
Does anyone use a mouse with custom weights?

I have a Corsair M65 and just found that the weights were pretty damn rusted. I only had this thing for 6 months ish.
 

kennah

Member
So... what is a good 'bang for buck' GPU upgrade for me?

I'm currently rocking a MSI gtx 580 Lightning OC.

In no rush for a new GPU right now, is the general consensus to wait for new Nvidia card details/prices?

My ultimate long term goal is to run Star Citizen, high settings at 60fps minimum @ 1080p (hopefully late 2014 early 2015). Apparently SC will take advantage of Mantle so I could switch to AMD if needed.

Short term I would like buttery smooth playability for Titan Fall, Witcher 3 and Elite Dangerous (maybe my current card will be enough).

I will be paring with an existing i5-2500k @4.4GHz.

Thanks

Need to know your budget. Your current card is as fast as the current 'bang for the buck' 760

A 780 would probably hold good value for the upgrade, but it is also $500
 

Smokey

Member
My comment was a little tongue in cheek. I am one of those people who had C2D, then nehalem, now ivy, will probably build with broadwell. My point is holding out for Haswell-E for DDR4 is not going to be a good use of money for gaming. Spending the premium for X99 to get %1-2 better frame rates from DDR4 while being a CPU architecture behind doesn't really make sense. If you need 2+ GPUs, a workstation or have a lot of money to through into an overclocking machine for fun thats fine.


It's more of holding out for the first 8 core intel offerings. DDR4 just comes along with it. For people that didn't upgrade to x79 and are still on sandy and below it's pretty exciting.
 
So my new stuff arrived.
EBJBZuN.jpg


Comparison between my old 560 Ti and my new 770.

This is probably were most of Gaf will start screaming cable management. I know, I know. It shall be done, once everything is up and running.
 

JohnJJ

Neo Member
Need to know your budget. Your current card is as fast as the current 'bang for the buck' 760

A 780 would probably hold good value for the upgrade, but it is also $500

I would be willing to budget for a 780 or R9 290 if it would last, I don't want to upgrade for at least another 3years (Providing my i5 2500k 4.4GHz can still hang with the big boys for that long!)

But I guess new Nvidia cards/Mantle could change everything this year.

I will say I'm impressed with my gtx 580, it's still a beast of a card 3 years later :)
 

clem84

Gold Member
Just got back from a local computer store and the clerk said something surprising. I just wanted to share it with you guys just to validate.

He said that anything beyond 4GB of system RAM is useless for games because every game currently out has been programmed to be compatible with 32-bit platforms and therefore can only use 3.(something, forgot the exact figure but it was around 3.8 or 3.9GB).

Is this true? Anything beyond 4GB won't add anything to stability or overall performance of games?
 

colt92

Neo Member
Just got back from a local computer store and the clerk said something surprising. I just wanted to share it with you guys just to validate.

He said that anything beyond 4GB of system RAM is useless for games because every game currently out has been programmed to be compatible with 32-bit platforms and therefore can only use 3.(something, forgot the exact figure but it was around 3.8 or 3.9GB).

Is this true? Anything beyond 4GB won't add anything to stability or overall performance of games?

Most games, yes. But PCs don't just run games, they run an OS and more than a few services and applications on the background. The magical number is 8GB. Also, some games have mods to increase the RAM maximum usage (i.e. FNV).
 

TnK

Member
I want to OC my old i7 960 to 4.4 GHz, any tips? I currently have it at 4.2 GHz. Will I benefit from the 200 MHz increase?
 

riflen

Member
Just got back from a local computer store and the clerk said something surprising. I just wanted to share it with you guys just to validate.

He said that anything beyond 4GB of system RAM is useless for games because every game currently out has been programmed to be compatible with 32-bit platforms and therefore can only use 3.(something, forgot the exact figure but it was around 3.8 or 3.9GB).

Is this true? Anything beyond 4GB won't add anything to stability or overall performance of games?

Strictly speaking this has been true until now because the majority of games must have a PS3/XBOX360 release, for to make ze monies y'see.

With those systems retired, now even the consoles have 64-bit CPUs and operating systems and 8GB of RAM, this will inevitably mean more and more games will be developed with a larger memory footprint in mind.

So, if you're building a PC for games in Jan 2014 and you don't want to spend the 20 euros/dollars/pounds cost difference between 4GB and 8GB of DDR3, then you need to think again imo.
 

HoosTrax

Member
I should mainly care about amount of VRAM for high-resolution right (>1080p)? Is it independent of refresh rate (I guess memory speed is more important here?).

Basically trying to determine if I should care about >3GB.
 

MaLDo

Member
Just got back from a local computer store and the clerk said something surprising. I just wanted to share it with you guys just to validate.

He said that anything beyond 4GB of system RAM is useless for games because every game currently out has been programmed to be compatible with 32-bit platforms and therefore can only use 3.(something, forgot the exact figure but it was around 3.8 or 3.9GB).

Is this true? Anything beyond 4GB won't add anything to stability or overall performance of games?


You can set your windows swap file into a ram disk, you can run a lot of trash (for example a ton of chrome tabs) into ram and you can create a ram disk and a virtua link to move your game folder into ram too for faster than light loading screens.
 

kennah

Member
I should mainly care about amount of VRAM for high-resolution right (>1080p)? Is it independent of refresh rate (I guess memory speed is more important here?).

Basically trying to determine if I should care about >3GB.

It's up to you. If it's close in price then get more than 2gig. But if not, then you may as well go 2gig and then upgrade in a year or two.
 

bigkrev

Member
Just got back from a local computer store and the clerk said something surprising. I just wanted to share it with you guys just to validate.

He said that anything beyond 4GB of system RAM is useless for games because every game currently out has been programmed to be compatible with 32-bit platforms and therefore can only use 3.(something, forgot the exact figure but it was around 3.8 or 3.9GB).

Is this true? Anything beyond 4GB won't add anything to stability or overall performance of games?

The Watch Dogs PC Specs require at least 6 gb of Ram. Next gen games are probably going to use more than 4 gigs http://www.pcgamer.com/2013/10/08/w...ed-specify-64-bit-os-and-minimum-6-gb-of-ram/
 

mkenyon

Banned
This is great, but I would warn people that the Microsoft USB installation tool only supports creating an MBR partition. This means to boot from a stick created by it, you probably have to put your UEFI motherboard into legacy/BIOS mode. If you install Windows in this mode, your system will have to remain in BIOS mode to boot and you lose benefits of UEFI/GPT. If you want Windows to be installed on a GPT partition and bootable in UEFI mode, use a tool like Rufus to create your install stick.
Hmmmmmmmmmm

I can still use UEFI on my rig at home.
 

kennah

Member
I would be willing to budget for a 780 or R9 290 if it would last, I don't want to upgrade for at least another 3years (Providing my i5 2500k 4.4GHz can still hang with the big boys for that long!)

But I guess new Nvidia cards/Mantle could change everything this year.

I will say I'm impressed with my gtx 580, it's still a beast of a card 3 years later :)

I say hang on to your 580 for another year unless you are really itching to upgrade
 
So I installed all my new parts. Set up my SSD and installed Windows fresh. The Pc then reset itself and has managed to get itself into a boot cycle.

I've tried the following to get it working:
Reset the CMOS battery, several times.
Removed everything apart from the cpu, psu, mobo, memory and gpu.
Tried using all my old parts again.

It just boots up, displays nothing and the 15 seconds it turns off and reboots. It's stuck in an infinite loop.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I should mainly care about amount of VRAM for high-resolution right (>1080p)? Is it independent of refresh rate (I guess memory speed is more important here?).

Basically trying to determine if I should care about >3GB.
I think 2GB is a little iffy, but 3GB is just right for 1080p.
So I installed all my new parts. Set up my SSD and installed Windows fresh. The Pc then reset itself and has managed to get itself into a boot cycle.

I've tried the following to get it working:
Reset the CMOS battery, several times.
Removed everything apart from the cpu, psu, mobo, memory and gpu.
Tried using all my old parts again.

It just boots up, displays nothing and the 15 seconds it turns off and reboots. It's stuck in an infinite loop.
Sounds like it might be overheating. Try reseating the CPU heatsink.
 

riflen

Member
i also installed from from USB in UEFI on a new system without switching...

Apparently it depends on UEFI implementation whether you can only boot a GPT partition or not. Some motherboards allow for both BIOS and UEFI modes to be enabled at once. Is the partition scheme on your boot disk GPT or MBR?

The Windows 7 USB tool could certainly only create MBR partitions when I tried it two months back. I found with my motherboard that if you ran the installer from a stick with a MBR scheme, the Windows 8 installer would then create a MBR partition scheme on your hard disk (there's no choice of partition scheme in the installer).

Once I used a different tool to create the stick using GPT, then the Windows 8 installer would create a GPT partition scheme on the hard disk at install.

If the partitions on your boot device are GPT after having installed using the Win 7 USB tool, then I guess things are not that clear-cut and something else is going on.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I've never been forced to legacy BIOS. Motherboards with UEFI I've installed with the Win 7 USB Key where I've actively played around in UEFI aftewards for overclocking: Maximus IV Gene, Maximus V Gene, Rampage IV Gene, MSI Z77 MPower, Gigabyte X79 Assassin 2, Gigabyte Z77X-UP7, Gigabyte Z87 Sniper M5.
I tried doing that and now the its boots and turns off after a second now...
When you reseat it, you need to remove the thermal paste and use some new stuff. Using the stock cooler?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Just a quick google shows that UEFI is indeed compatible with MBR.

Disk device compatibility

See also: GPT: Operating systems support
In addition to the standard PC disk partition scheme, which uses a master boot record (MBR), UEFI works with a new partitioning scheme: GUID Partition Table (GPT). GPT is free from many of the limitations of MBR. In particular, the MBR limits on the number and size of disk partitions (up to 4 primary partitions per disk, up to 2 TiB (2 × 240 bytes) per disk) are relaxed.[20] GPT allows for a maximum disk and partition size of 8 ZiB (8 × 270 bytes).[20][21]
The UEFI specification explicitly requires support for FAT32 for EFI System partitions (ESPs), and FAT16 or FAT12 for removable media;[19]:section 12.3 specific implementations may support other file systems.
Question, do I need to reinstall Windows if I am changing the motherboard, ram and CPU.
Yes.
 

jonno394

Member
Hey GAF, first time attempt at building a PC. Been researching stuff and narrowed it down to what I want to buy. Comes in at close to £700. I don;t have that money atm, I have half and will probably have the other half late Feb. What should I do?

a) Save up and buy everything in one fell swoop late feb
b) Buy components now, put in to storage then buy the rest late feb?

I know prices can fluctuate, but will 6 week cause that much of a change for things like RAM or CPU?

My plan is something along these lines (prices gathered today from various UK outlets)

Motherboard Gigabyte B85M-D3H £58.00
CPU Intel i5 4670K £155.00
GPU Sapphire R9 270x Toxic 2GB £170.00
RAM Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 2x4GB £66.00
HDD 1TB WD10EZEX £45.00
OS Windows 8.1 64Bit £71.00
PSU XFX Pro 550w £55.00
Optical Drive SATA 24x DVD Writer £15.00
Case Corsair Carbide Series 200R £50.00

All these things should mesh together and give me a semi-decent rig right?
 
When you reseat it, you need to remove the thermal paste and use some new stuff. Using the stock cooler?

Yeah I've just tried new paste, found some from back when I used to fix RROD 360s. How long do I need to let it sit?

I've also taken out the mobo battery again to see if that helps. My Pc has been running fine till I tried to upgrade my gpu, memory and install a fresh copy of Windows and then it all went wrong.

Edit: just realised a cable wasn't plugged in. It's going back to the 15 second boot cycle. My friend in It said it's something to do with the bios but I can't boot it up further enough to get it working.
 

CoG

Member
Thoughts on hybrid drives? Thinking a Samsung EVO 250GB as the OS drive and a Seagate ST2000DX001 as the Steam drive. Overkill? I want things to load fast.
 

riflen

Member
Just a quick google shows that UEFI is indeed compatible with MBR.

Yes, that's true. I think I'm clogging up the thread a bit with something that doesn't belong, so I'll leave it. Here's a Technet article on the subject if anyone is interested. It describes what I encountered using the Maximus Gene V:

http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dn336946.aspx

Basically, I couldn't boot from an MBR stick in UEFI mode. Probably a CSM config mistake by me.
 

kennah

Member
Thoughts on hybrid drives? Thinking a Samsung EVO 250GB as the OS drive and a Seagate ST2000DX001 as the Steam drive. Overkill? I want things to load fast.

The Cache drives don't really help for games because it would have to copy everything from the rotational to the cache when you started playing it anyway. You're better off with a regular rotational and using SteamMover or something similar to put the games you're currently playing on and off the SSD.
 

HoosTrax

Member
Wow I've been out of the loop. EVGA's warranty period is now 3 years, no longer lifetime? Is this true? All because XFX defected to the red team?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yeah I've just tried new paste, found some from back when I used to fix RROD 360s. How long do I need to let it sit?

I've also taken out the mobo battery again to see if that helps. My Pc has been running fine till I tried to upgrade my gpu, memory and install a fresh copy of Windows and then it all went wrong.

Edit: just realised a cable wasn't plugged in. It's going back to the 15 second boot cycle. My friend in It said it's something to do with the bios but I can't boot it up further enough to get it working.
You can't get into BIOS at all?
 
I don't care if I can save $20 @ NCIX. Customer service is horrible.

Ugh.

Was just on hold for 40 minutes. As I'm not paying 100% attention b/c I've been on hold for so long I get some message about press 1 to leave a message, press 2 to something else, blah blah. I hit 0 to go to operator. It resets me and now I have another 40 minute wait.

This is after back and forth on other calls just to return an unopened item. You can't do that on their website as going through RMA only results in "replace". Seriously?
 

Shaldome

Member
Yeah I've just tried new paste, found some from back when I used to fix RROD 360s. How long do I need to let it sit?

I've also taken out the mobo battery again to see if that helps. My Pc has been running fine till I tried to upgrade my gpu, memory and install a fresh copy of Windows and then it all went wrong.

Edit: just realised a cable wasn't plugged in. It's going back to the 15 second boot cycle. My friend in It said it's something to do with the bios but I can't boot it up further enough to get it working.

If this doesn't help pull out any memory modules but one and try again. If it's still rebooting try another memory slot and then another memory bar. You can check if all memory modules are seated correctly first. Just push both ends down into the slot.
 

Ieu

Member
Nothing displays on screen. I press the power button, lights and fans come on, does this for 15 seconds, resets and loops.

I have no idea but I figured out my PC sometimes wouldn't POST and go in to a "boot loop" unless a monitor was plugged in to the motherboard. It's annoying but as soon as I see Windows I can unplug the monitor and replug it back in to my graphics card. May be it's worth a go on your end?

On the subject - if anyone actually knows what is making this happen with my PC and how I can stop it that would be great.

Intel Core i5 4670k (stock clocked)
Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H
2 x 4GB 1600 Mhz CAS 9 Corsair Vengeance Pro RAM
EVGA GTX760 3BG FTW Graphics card
Windows 8.1 Pro
 

Shaldome

Member
I have no idea but I figured out my PC sometimes wouldn't POST and go in to a "boot loop" unless a monitor was plugged in to the motherboard. It's annoying but as soon as I see Windows I can unplug the monitor and replug it back in to my graphics card. May be it's worth a go on your end?

On the subject - if anyone actually knows what is making this happen with my PC and how I can stop it that would be great.

Intel Core i5 4670k (stock clocked)
Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H
2 x 4GB 1600 Mhz CAS 9 Corsair Vengeance Pro RAM
EVGA GTX760 3BG FTW Graphics card
Windows 8.1 Pro

Did you try it with the integrated GPU disabled in the BIOS?
 
I'm looking to build a PC that was be comparable to the Xbox or PS4. I would preferably like to pay around $700


Your Current Specs: i5 4430, r9 270x, are what I am considering right now.
Budget: $700, canada
Main Use: My main use is gaming and watching blurays.
Monitor Resolution: I'll be couch gaming on my Tv, so 1080p or 900p is important. Minimum of 30 fps.
When will you build?: I'm looking to build within a week.
Will you be overclocking?: I'll overclock if it's not too complex.

I really want the PC to last for at least 4 years before I need to do any major work on it. Being able to play upcoming games at at least medium at 1080p is what I'm aiming for.

Thanks.
 

kennah

Member
I'm looking to build a PC that was be comparable to the Xbox or PS4. I would preferably like to pay around $700


Your Current Specs: i5 4430, r9 270x, are what I am considering right now.
Budget: $700, canada
Main Use: My main use is gaming and watching blurays.
Monitor Resolution: I'll be couch gaming on my Tv, so 1080p or 900p is important. Minimum of 30 fps.
When will you build?: I'm looking to build within a week.
Will you be overclocking?: I'll overclock if it's not too complex.

I really want the PC to last for at least 4 years before I need to do any major work on it. Being able to play upcoming games at at least medium at 1080p is what I'm aiming for.

Thanks.

Didn't you recently build one?

Edit: Ah, I see. Your 7950 was basically the same thing as a 270X. If you want the PC to last, you'll need an overclockable processor. Check the Kijiji for a used 3750K or 2500K/2600K for around $200 with Z77 motherboard. They don't come up very often, but can sometimes be found.
 

Ieu

Member
Did you try it with the integrated GPU disabled in the BIOS?

I tried that and it actually made things worse as I could no longer use the iGPU to get the BIOS to POST and the only way I got out of that was to reset the BIOS back to defaults.
 
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