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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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TheD

The Detective
Skyrim handles memory very awkwardly, and I think the numbers people get are misleading. You have to remember that Skyrim is by default a 32-bit application which means it can never truly access more than 3GB--that's combined system and video memory. Yes, you can activate LAA but that doesn't actually make it a full 64-bit application, it just kind of stagers the way memory is handled. It's kind of like HyperThreading for memory management--with hundreds of times more errors.

For a 32 Bit windows program to use 3 GB of RAM it must be large address aware in the first place (and to claim that a program supporting LAA makes it full of errors is wildly wrong!).

See above. Also, there are zero recorded occurances of 4/6/8GB variations of cards offering performance gains over their 2/3/4GB versions. The cards are optimized in such a way that they can only effectively move memory around within X amount of space. Doubling it is generally pointless.

There is tons of recorded instances of a graphics card with more VRAM out performing one with less, the one with less just needs to have it's VRAM fill up and start swapping over the PCIe bus.

And graphics cards with more VRAM can make use of it fine.
 

Ashhong

Member
So I was able to get my 4670k OC to 4.5ghz with 1.25v, and XMP enabled (1600mhz) that's decent right? Should I just stop there?

Also, how would one describe coil whine? Is it like this high pitched sound you hear? I hear something, but don't know if it was there in my old computer or not, and I can only hear it when I turn my head at certain angles..
 

LilJoka

Member
So I was able to get my 4670k OC to 4.5ghz with 1.25v, and XMP enabled (1600mhz) that's decent right? Should I just stop there?

Also, how would one describe coil whine? Is it like this high pitched sound you hear? I hear something, but don't know if it was there in my old computer or not, and I can only hear it when I turn my head at certain angles..

Decent OC, if temperatures permit you may want to test the waters further before settling with final clocks and volts.

Coil whine sounds like a high pitched noise and is usually intermittent.
 
Final pieces (CPU and mobo) were just ordered, they should be here on Wednesday, which means that I am building next weekend. Can't wait, and I hope everything goes well.

Any tips from experienced people? I will post more in this topic in the next few days.
 

kennah

Member
For a 32 Bit windows program to use 3 GB of RAM it must be large address aware in the first place (and to claim that a program supporting LAA makes it full of errors is wildly wrong!).



There is tons of recorded instances of a graphics card with more VRAM out performing one with less, the one with less just needs to have it's VRAM fill up and start swapping over the PCIe bus.

And graphics cards with more VRAM can make use of it fine.
Please provide benchmarks. (This isn't me being a jerk, we've long been researching this and haven't found any definitive proof.
It is quite easy once you learn how to do it. It is a simple OS install (create a install USB using UniBeast) + drivers later (using Multibeast). However, if you have problem, which is likely, you'll need patience and google.
www.tonymacx86.com, check the guides.

The right hardware is just an intel CPU.
Not necessarily true. Some motherboards can be a pain in the ass to get working. You can really stack the deck in your favour by buying the right gigabyte and nvidia stuff.
So, anyone here have any experience building a Hackintosh?

Is it a pain in the ass and not worth the trouble or is it almost as easy to set up as a fresh Windows build?

I'm close to selling my Macbook Pro, which I will use the money to build a new PC...and this thought just entered my mind so I was just curious. I'm thinking just getting the right hardware would be pretty limiting anyways so don't bother?
It's not as foolproof as Windows but it has gotten a lot easier with mavericks. The tonymac site from the other poster is the place to go. Their hardware and install guides are solid.
 

TheD

The Detective
Please provide benchmarks. (This isn't me being a jerk, we've long been researching this and haven't found any definitive proof.

I don't have any links to that, but just load a game that uses more VRAM than you have (e.g heavily modded Skyrim) and just watch the stuttering as the card tries to load up the textures it needs over PCIe.
I also remember some SLI and Crossfire benchmarks showing the cards with lower VRAM having a lower avg framerate when they are pushed in VRAM limited scenarios (likely due to the stuttering).
Clearly cards with more VRAM don't have an advantage when the cards with less have not run out of it, but that is not what more VRAM is for.
 

kennah

Member
And that's the problem I'm having. There is literally one usage scenario where having more VRAM makes a difference and it is something that the user is modding in themselves - not any game at stock.
 

yatesl

Member
Oh right - so that's why you should use dust filters, if your PC is on the floor and the PSU is taking in air from the bottom of the case... and you have a dog.

TZHJ4vE.jpg
 

LordAlu

Member
Can't believe the MB slipped my mind. The OS I believe he'll get by using his .edu address.
As for the 4GB 760, I threw that in there cause it was only $40 more.
To save a few would it be best to go with an AMD build?
I'll pass this on either way.
Much appreciated.
Heh, things always slip my mind when I'm working on builds at work, it happens. Good that he's getting the OS so that $20 can be put into something else.

The 4GB 760 is not going to do much for you for that $40, if anything. The 4GB version would perhaps only be useful for SLI and higher than 1080p. Save that $40 and put it towards an SSD, as that wll make a much bigger difference.

Don't go with an AMD build. This explains why far better than I could ever describe it :D
 

LilJoka

Member
What's the general consensus on GAF for what's the preferred method to apply thermal paste?

Pea sized dot in middle, place and secure heatsink on top. The amount varies with the thickness of the paste, use your best judgement. You want enough paste to cover 90% of the CPU and be as spread as thin as possible once the heatsink is fully tightened over it.
 

SpyGuy239

Member
So, anyone here have any experience building a Hackintosh?

Is it a pain in the ass and not worth the trouble or is it almost as easy to set up as a fresh Windows build?

I'm close to selling my Macbook Pro, which I will use the money to build a new PC...and this thought just entered my mind so I was just curious. I'm thinking just getting the right hardware would be pretty limiting anyways so don't bother?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrOHPm_7PDo

To the T.

Also I swear by Linus Tech Tips!!!
 

LilJoka

Member
So, anyone here have any experience building a Hackintosh?

Is it a pain in the ass and not worth the trouble or is it almost as easy to set up as a fresh Windows build?

I'm close to selling my Macbook Pro, which I will use the money to build a new PC...and this thought just entered my mind so I was just curious. I'm thinking just getting the right hardware would be pretty limiting anyways so don't bother?

Ive built one on my X79 system, its not difficult. Hardest bit is getting the installation media created which needs a Mac or Virtual Machine (can be a little tricky) to make. But if you have a Mac its easy. Just make sure your parts are all compatible, notable any Wifi/Bluetooth Card you use.

What is your budget?
 

Jafku

Member
Have a random question. I have an i5-3470. Would it make sense to save and get a 3570K or just wait until I do a new build in a few years?
 

LilJoka

Member
Have a random question. I have an i5-3470. Would it make sense to save and get a 3570K or just wait until I do a new build in a few years?

No point, if you have a Z series motherboard you can get your CPU to 3.8GHz all core Turbo, and maybe a little higher depending on how good your motherboard is.
 

Sky Chief

Member
Hey PC GAF, what do you think of this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Refurbished Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Open Box Asus Maximus VI Hero ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($139.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill AEGIS 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($259.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($559.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($113.53 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master V850 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($157.70 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: QNIX Perfect Pixel QX2710 Matte 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($419.45 @ Newegg)
Total: $2157.60
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-20 11:49 EDT-0400)

It's basically the Enthusiast Build with a few of the recommended upgrades.

My comments / questions:
  • I was going to get a Corsair H60 but a refurbished H100i from Newegg is the same price. I shouldn't have to worry about it being a refurb, right?
  • Is there anything I should look out for in an Open Box mobo? My local Micro Center says they have two at that price and they are "Complete". I can always get a new Hero for $50 more or Micro Center has the Asus Z87 Pro in a combo with the 4770k for a little over $400. Any suggestions? If I get the Hero any good recommendations for wifi and Bluetooth solutions?
  • The 1.35v and 1.5v memory was exactly the same price, I went with 1.35v. Is that the right thing to do?
  • For video card I went with the EVGA Classified primarily because it seems to have a great cooling solution and had good reviews that I saw. However, it is about $50 more than most other GTX 780s. I want to OC but value a relatively quiet machine. Any other GTX 780 cards that can be OCed just as much without getting too loud? Is this worth the 10% price premium?
  • I am still really torn between the Nanoxia DS1 and this R4. I heard Nanoxias have better fans and are quieter and cooler but I kind of want a window, lol. How does the Titanium color look in person?
  • The 850W PSU was only about $5 more than the 700W, decided to just go with the bigger one for future proofing and I suppose the extra overhead will keep it cooler and quieter. Originally, I was looking at the Seasonic X and Corsair AX PSUs but I take it that this CoolerMaster is the same basic design and is quieter and costs a lot less than either of those?
  • Is the QNIX monitor really that good? The Anandtech review did not seem glowing (I believe they said that pre calibration it is washed out and the 120hz thing is not real). Is calibration easy? What might be a better choice? Does it make sense to go with the Pixel Perfect version?

Any input is appreciated, I would like to purchase all the components this week.

I guess I will just grab a Windows licence from reddit. Should I go with Windows 7 or 8.1? I can just download either on a flash drive right? Do I even need an optical drive in my new PC? I have a Blu Ray burner in my laptop and feel like I've maybe used it half a dozen times in four years.

Anything else that I am going to need?

Thanks!
 
Hey PC GAF, what do you think of this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Refurbished Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Open Box Asus Maximus VI Hero ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($139.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill AEGIS 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($259.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($559.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($113.53 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master V850 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($157.70 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: QNIX Perfect Pixel QX2710 Matte 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($419.45 @ Newegg)
Total: $2157.60
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-20 11:49 EDT-0400)

It's basically the Enthusiast Build with a few of the recommended upgrades.

My comments / questions:
  • I was going to get a Corsair H60 but a refurbished H100i from Newegg is the same price. I shouldn't have to worry about it being a refurb, right?
  • Is there anything I should look out for in an Open Box mobo? My local Micro Center says they have two at that price and they are "Complete". I can always get a new Hero for $50 more or Micro Center has the Asus Z87 Pro in a combo with the 4770k for a little over $400. Any suggestions? If I get the Hero any good recommendations for wifi and Bluetooth solutions?
  • The 1.35v and 1.5v memory was exactly the same price, I went with 1.35v. Is that the right thing to do?
  • For video card I went with the EVGA Classified primarily because it seems to have a great cooling solution and had good reviews that I saw. However, it is about $50 more than most other GTX 780s. I want to OC but value a relatively quiet machine. Any other GTX 780 cards that can be OCed just as much without getting too loud? Is this worth the 10% price premium?
  • I am still really torn between the Nanoxia DS1 and this R4. I heard Nanoxias have better fans and are quieter and cooler but I kind of want a window, lol. How does the Titanium color look in person?
  • The 850W PSU was only about $5 more than the 700W, decided to just go with the bigger one for future proofing and I suppose the extra overhead will keep it cooler and quieter. Originally, I was looking at the Seasonic X and Corsair AX PSUs but I take it that this CoolerMaster is the same basic design and is quieter and costs a lot less than either of those?
  • Is the QNIX monitor really that good? The Anandtech review did not seem glowing (I believe they said that pre calibration it is washed out and the 120hz thing is not real). Is calibration easy? What might be a better choice? Does it make sense to go with the Pixel Perfect version?

Any input is appreciated, I would like to purchase all the components this week.

I guess I will just grab a Windows licence from reddit. Should I go with Windows 7 or 8.1? I can just download either on a flash drive right? Do I even need an optical drive in my new PC? I have a Blu Ray burner in my laptop and feel like I've maybe used it half a dozen times in four years.

Anything else that I am going to need?

Thanks!

The Classified is a dual bios card since nvidia neuters their cards the dual bios allows you to flash one bios while knowing that you always have the one bios in case things go wrong. So to me that's the value of the classified.

Edit: The EVGA FTW cards are also dual bios but the cooling and power delivery are not as beefed up as the classified
 
Hey PC GAF, what do you think of this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Refurbished Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Open Box Asus Maximus VI Hero ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($139.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill AEGIS 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($259.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($559.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($113.53 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master V850 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($157.70 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: QNIX Perfect Pixel QX2710 Matte 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($419.45 @ Newegg)
Total: $2157.60
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-20 11:49 EDT-0400)

It's basically the Enthusiast Build with a few of the recommended upgrades.

My comments / questions:
  • I was going to get a Corsair H60 but a refurbished H100i from Newegg is the same price. I shouldn't have to worry about it being a refurb, right?
  • Is there anything I should look out for in an Open Box mobo? My local Micro Center says they have two at that price and they are "Complete". I can always get a new Hero for $50 more or Micro Center has the Asus Z87 Pro in a combo with the 4770k for a little over $400. Any suggestions? If I get the Hero any good recommendations for wifi and Bluetooth solutions?
  • The 1.35v and 1.5v memory was exactly the same price, I went with 1.35v. Is that the right thing to do?
  • For video card I went with the EVGA Classified primarily because it seems to have a great cooling solution and had good reviews that I saw. However, it is about $50 more than most other GTX 780s. I want to OC but value a relatively quiet machine. Any other GTX 780 cards that can be OCed just as much without getting too loud? Is this worth the 10% price premium?
  • I am still really torn between the Nanoxia DS1 and this R4. I heard Nanoxias have better fans and are quieter and cooler but I kind of want a window, lol. How does the Titanium color look in person?
  • The 850W PSU was only about $5 more than the 700W, decided to just go with the bigger one for future proofing and I suppose the extra overhead will keep it cooler and quieter. Originally, I was looking at the Seasonic X and Corsair AX PSUs but I take it that this CoolerMaster is the same basic design and is quieter and costs a lot less than either of those?
  • Is the QNIX monitor really that good? The Anandtech review did not seem glowing (I believe they said that pre calibration it is washed out and the 120hz thing is not real). Is calibration easy? What might be a better choice? Does it make sense to go with the Pixel Perfect version?

Any input is appreciated, I would like to purchase all the components this week.

I guess I will just grab a Windows licence from reddit. Should I go with Windows 7 or 8.1? I can just download either on a flash drive right? Do I even need an optical drive in my new PC? I have a Blu Ray burner in my laptop and feel like I've maybe used it half a dozen times in four years.

Anything else that I am going to need?

Thanks!

No issue with a refurb H100i, I bought a refurb H100i and it's fine.

Be very wary of open box motherboards, they're very prone to issues and people in general are scumbags who will return items because "reasons" (lies).

The V850 is a fantastic PSU.

The overclockable monitors with multiple inputs drop frames, because they have a scaler. If you get a DVI-only model then it will do true 120Hz (if it overclocks that high).

Get 8.1.
 

LilJoka

Member
What makes them so much better? I thought the CoolerMaster was made by SeaSonic as well and shared the same design as the other two.

You are right, it's made by Seasonic, didn't know any CM PSUs where using Seasonic as their OEM. Good PSU, although way more watts than you need if you don't plan to SLI. A Seasonic 550w would do otherwise.
 

Jafku

Member
No point, if you have a Z series motherboard you can get your CPU to 3.8GHz all core Turbo, and maybe a little higher depending on how good your motherboard is.
That's what I thought. I had it on 4Ghz before. Just needed some thoughts. This is my first build but next time I will consult here and do it right. Skimped on the mobo and the cpu.
 

Sky Chief

Member
Be very wary of open box motherboards, they're very prone to issues and people in general are scumbags who will return items because "reasons" (lies).

Okay, I guess I will just spend the extra $50 to get it new.

The overclockable monitors with multiple inputs drop frames, because they have a scaler. If you get a DVI-only model then it will do true 120Hz (if it overclocks that high).

This is the right one then? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
 

Sky Chief

Member
You are right, it's made by Seasonic, didn't know any CM PSUs where using Seasonic as their OEM. Good PSU, although way more watts than you need if you don't plan to SLI. A Seasonic 550w would do otherwise.

Is there any drawback of having an excessive PSU other than cost?
 

KJRS_1993

Member
Taken more feedback from you guys and others, I'm sorry for posting here a lot, I just want to run this last through people who know what they're on about.

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/3uv8Z

CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard : MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card
Case: Zalman Z9 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer

Does this look good to you guys?
Thanks for your time.
 

Ashhong

Member
Decent OC, if temperatures permit you may want to test the waters further before settling with final clocks and volts.

Coil whine sounds like a high pitched noise and is usually intermittent.

Eh, I ran prime95 for a bit and it crashed. The temperatures were more than fine, staying around high 50c. Is it that important that the comp is stable with prime? It's not exactly a real world indicator. 1.25v and only 4.5ghz makes me sad

Dammit, it's probably coil whine I hear. I guess I will rma it. What a damn pain
 

LilJoka

Member
Eh, I ran prime95 for a bit and it crashed. The temperatures were more than fine, staying around high 50c. Is it that important that the comp is stable with prime? It's not exactly a real world indicator. 1.25v and only 4.5ghz makes me sad

Dammit, it's probably coil whine I hear. I guess I will rma it. What a damn pain

Prime95 does matter, its just doing a lot of work quickly to see how likely a failure is, hence the high temps and load. Its not high temps and load that is causing the failure in this case, its just not stable. Your temps at 50c are cold, so try bumping the vcore a couple notches.
 

KJRS_1993

Member
Do you really need the disc drive? Cut the PSU to the 500w one http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/

I didn't see the harm considering how inexpensive it is. You never know and all that.
I've been umming and ahhing about the PSU - I thought I'd only need a 500w one personally, but someone recommended a 600w one, as apparently it might improve performance. I've never heard of a PSU making a difference before!
Can you tell this is my first build? :p
 

kharma45

Member
I didn't see the harm considering how inexpensive it is. You never know and all that.
I've been umming and ahhing about the PSU - I thought I'd only need a 500w one personally, but someone recommended a 600w one, as apparently it might improve performance. I've never heard of a PSU making a difference before!
Can you tell this is my first build? :p

It doesn't improve performance. 500w is all you'll need for a single GPU.

It's inexpensive yes but the DVD drive is still money that doesn't need spend. It could get you a nicer case for instance like the Corsair 200R or a better motherboard. With the ability to install Windows through USB I can't see a single reason for needing one.
 

Ashhong

Member
Prime95 does matter, its just doing a lot of work quickly to see how likely a failure is, hence the high temps and load. Its not high temps and load that is causing the failure in this case, its just not stable. Your temps at 50c are cold, so try bumping the vcore a couple notches.

1.3v is the upper limit right? I will try 1.275 then. My chip couldn't boot 4.6ghz at 1.2v so I have a below average one huh?
 

KJRS_1993

Member
It doesn't improve performance. 500w is all you'll need for a single GPU.

It's inexpensive yes but the DVD drive is still money that doesn't need spend. It could get you a nicer case for instance like the Corsair 200R or a better motherboard. With the ability to install Windows through USB I can't see a single reason for needing one.

I thought so - Glad it's been confirmed that Reddit is officially full of muppets :p
Maybe I'm just not for an all-digital future just yet! Personally it's an expenditure I don't' mind making, is all.
Thanks for the advice though man!
 

kharma45

Member
I thought so - Glad it's been confirmed that Reddit is officially full of muppets :p
Maybe I'm just not for an all-digital future just yet! Personally it's an expenditure I don't' mind making, is all.
Thanks for the advice though man!

r/buildapc has a lot of good advice but a monumental amount of bad advice thrown around too. What we lack here in quantity we make up for in quality :p

Fair do's! Just don't blame me when you never use it :p Motherboard I might look at again. Might be worth using the money saved on the PSU to bump it up slightly.
 

KJRS_1993

Member
r/buildapc has a lot of good advice but a monumental amount of bad advice thrown around too. What we lack here in quantity we make up for in quality :p

Fair do's! Just don't blame me when you never use it :p Motherboard I might look at again. Might be worth using the money saved on the PSU to bump it up slightly.

Think I'll take the quality anyday cheers :p
I take full responsibility!
Any recommendations on the motherboard? I'm not sure what difference they make :(
 
Been out the graphic card loop for a couple of years, I have a 560 Ti Frozr, looking to spend around $200, anything worth upgrading to or should I just hold off?
 
Been out the graphic card loop for a couple of years, I have a 560 Ti Frozr, looking to spend around $200, anything worth upgrading to or should I just hold off?

A 270X is a bit faster than a 580, MSRP for it is 200 dollars. On the Nvidia side, if you can stretch for a 760 that would be ideal, it hangs around 250 bucks and it's a pretty swell card at ~20 percent faster than the 270X.

That's about it for your price range, if you want to upgrade now.
 

cebri.one

Member
Been out the graphic card loop for a couple of years, I have a 560 Ti Frozr, looking to spend around $200, anything worth upgrading to or should I just hold off?

You could wait a month until Computex, NVIDIA may announce the new 800 series there. But a 760 (~250$) should give you a nice jump in performance.
 

Megasoum

Banned
Well I just installed my brand new Z87X-D3H, i5 4670k and 16gigs of ram without reformating my PC (Yes, I like to live dangerously lol).

Win 8.1 went into "First boot" mode on the first boot setting up my devices and updating my metro apps. Took like 4-5 min on the first boot but after that everything is going smoothly. Had 3 errors in the device manager, 2 of them went away after installing the drivers from the Gigabyte website. Only thing left is an "Unknown USB Device" which it looks like is my front panel USB3 I bought a couple of months ago. It's weird cause I don't remember it having any special drivers.
 

LilJoka

Member
Well I just installed my brand new Z87X-D3H, i5 4670k and 16gigs of ram without reformating my PC (Yes, I like to live dangerously lol).

Win 8.1 went into "First boot" mode on the first boot setting up my devices and updating my metro apps. Took like 4-5 min on the first boot but after that everything is going smoothly. Had 3 errors in the device manager, 2 of them went away after installing the drivers from the Gigabyte website. Only thing left is an "Unknown USB Device" which it looks like is my front panel USB3 I bought a couple of months ago. It's weird cause I don't remember it having any special drivers.

Could be the motherboard USB 3 drivers.
 

Megasoum

Banned
Could be the motherboard USB 3 drivers.

Yeah it's possible but I already installed all the drivers available on the Gigabyte website and the only thing available on Windows Update is the big "Update 1" for 8.1 which I'm installing right now. Once that's done I'll go check the connections in the case to be sure.
 

pelican

Member
Starting to plan out in my mind my Sept - Oct upgrade/new build. Decided upon mini ITX. It is time to retire the full tower build.
 

Red Comet

Member
Okay, so I need to order low profile RAM in order to use the cooler I want, but I'm not sure which of these I should go for:

1600mhz

or

1866mhz?


They're the exact same price, and I know the 1866mhz is a little faster, but the 1600mhz RAM has lower latency, so I don't know which is the better buy.
 
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