Semi-modular is better. 780 Lightning vs Classy vs Twin Frozr comes down to factory overclock aka guaranteed *slightly* better chip. All will most likely overclock to the same performance. ~$1700 and H87 w/ Xeon is stupid. Take your build drop down to a 4650K unless you are doing multimedia creation. Also don't need a $17 case fan. The fractal fans included will be sufficient. You also can drop down to a good 500W+ PSU (look at OP for suggestions) unless you intend to add another 780 which I wouldn't recommend unless you were buying two right now. Always better to sell and buy new single GPU then SLI down the road.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
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Semi-modular is better. 780 Lightning vs Classy vs Twin Frozr comes down to factory overclock aka guaranteed *slightly* better chip. All will most likely overclock to the same performance. ~$1700 and H87 w/ Xeon is stupid. Take your build drop down to a 4650K unless you are doing multimedia creation. Also don't need a $17 case fan. The fractal fans included will be sufficient. You also can drop down to a good 500W+ PSU (look at OP for suggestions) unless you intend to add another 780 which I wouldn't recommend unless you were buying two right now. Always better to sell and buy new single GPU then SLI down the road.
It's happened with Bioshock Infinite, Thief, State of Decay, Titanfall and Civ V (I haven't check all my games, but those are the ones I found that do it). I can't find anything online about "VRM pops", and I've never heard of it. What is it?
I'm super hesitant to RMA it, simply because it seems like it will be a pain and I hate the idea of getting a refurb card in return. If it was a serious/possibly harmful issue, wouldn't it be happening with every game? It seems really strange that it's only with some games.
(I probably should have said that mine is a tad quieter than that video. I can barely hear it over my case fans. It basically sounds like when you put a piece of paper in a fan. Soft, but annoying).
EDIT: I just went to look for more video examples of the noise, and I believe this is closer to it.
http://youtu.be/xSqxJd3xdMo
8GB GDDR5 8GB GDDR5 8GB GDDR5
8GB GDDR5 8GB GDDR5 8GB GDDR5
8GB GDDR5 8GB GDDR5 8GB GDDR5
Andodalf
Banned
The 880m has 8gbs of gddr5. The base 880 having it is only logical if the laptop chip has it.
Hey anyone with experience working with the Node 304 care to share any pertinent information?
Is it actually fairly dust proof?
Does using a SFX PSU really help with cable management and airflow?
Would the Noctua UH12S be a good fit? not too keen on using an AIO going forward.
Any serious build quality flaws?
It's a fair bit smaller than the 250D, and has more clearance for air coolers, kinda making more attractive in my eyes.
Hypothetically II would be doing a Z97/Devil's Canyon build+Noctua Air cooler (UH12S)+GTX 880 (blower style to minimize heat in the case)+512GB M.2 SSD+ one or two 4 TB HDDs, the Silverstone 450W Gold SFX seems like a good choice. I wouldn't mind spending a bit more on Noctua case fans to maximize cooling potential too.
Is it actually fairly dust proof?
Does using a SFX PSU really help with cable management and airflow?
Would the Noctua UH12S be a good fit? not too keen on using an AIO going forward.
Any serious build quality flaws?
It's a fair bit smaller than the 250D, and has more clearance for air coolers, kinda making more attractive in my eyes.
Hypothetically II would be doing a Z97/Devil's Canyon build+Noctua Air cooler (UH12S)+GTX 880 (blower style to minimize heat in the case)+512GB M.2 SSD+ one or two 4 TB HDDs, the Silverstone 450W Gold SFX seems like a good choice. I wouldn't mind spending a bit more on Noctua case fans to maximize cooling potential too.
zeroeffect
Member
I wish both Nvidia and Intel would hurry up with their GPU/CPUs...I want to build a new PC. I fear this one will implode before they come out. I'd like to have a PC built before October 7th when Dragon Age comes out. Had to replace my GPU last month from EVGA because it died...so I have bad feeling.
Arc07
Member
I'm in the same boat. I have a good budget for this build ($4,200) but I don't really want to jump the gun and build a monster when the next GPU/CPUs could be a potential huge upgrade.
Thanks for the help. I think I'll go with the Classified GTX 780, as it seems to have a slightly better edge in performance.
Here's what I've got (yes, it's very expensive. Not sure what to do if I still want to keep everything at the same performance and lower the price):
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 120V 86.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z87 MPOWER ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($150.00 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: PNY XLR8 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($59.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Seagate 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Dual Classified ACX Video Card ($563.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec HCG M 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: QNIX QX2710 Perfect Pixel 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($359.90)
Wireless Network Adapter: TRENDnet TEW-805UB 802.11a/b/g/n/ac USB 3.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($30.94 @ Amazon)
Total: $2005.72
SteveWinwood
Member
and the computer is built
it is a real beaut
downloading crysis now to blow my brains away
it is a real beaut
downloading crysis now to blow my brains away
Download Xtreme Particles (?) and Mster and CCC or whatever is the hotness now
Honestly some other titles are better lookers now, but C1 is still actually a lot of fun when you turn off all the silly motion blur and DoF.
Sword Of Doom
Member
Couldn't agree more. Sell your GPU while it's still worth something. WHen new GPU's come out people who want to SLI the old ones will pay decent money.
SteveWinwood
Member
So I downloaded the latest drivers and everything and it all seems to be working but I do have a quick question about maybe I'm not doing something right still.
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8301697
This has me slightly worried. I haven't overclocked yet, so I guess it doesn't take that into account, but why am I lower than "similar" systems?
I guess I should pay attention to temps and stuff for now just to get a feeling for it (and to make sure I didn't mess up the thermal paste :X )
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8301697
This has me slightly worried. I haven't overclocked yet, so I guess it doesn't take that into account, but why am I lower than "similar" systems?
I guess I should pay attention to temps and stuff for now just to get a feeling for it (and to make sure I didn't mess up the thermal paste :X )
phxxBullet
Banned
Yup most likely in this case.
Well ok this is something different then. If it's about software working, the i7 is worth the price, but still, I'd recommend a better SSD instead of the sandisk
phxxBullet
Banned
An i7, a Noctua fan, 2 HDDs+1SSD, a GTX880 and all that on a 450w PSU?
You love living risky, ehh?
Woudldn't even spend a second thinking of something loeer than 550watts
Hyper 212 Plus for $20 after rebate at newegg.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065
I dunno about that, a good quality 450W can handle a 780, 780 Ti. If Mawell brings with it all the efficiency gains we saw demonstrated in the 750 Ti, or even just some of them, a good 450W should be just fine.
jfoul
Member
Deal Alert!
Rosewill Hive 750W Semi Modular Amazon - $67.99 + Free Shipping
Rosewill Hive 750W Semi Modular Amazon - $67.99 + Free Shipping
phxxBullet
Banned
No idea, but wouldn't even try it.
An 5770 can play something like this in non-HD and med settings, a 5350 will most likely be a slideshow at mid settings.
Well, thb I don't think there'll be that much of an improvement towards power consumption as it was with the 750ti.
i wouldn't go with something below 500 at least, maybe even 550'as said before
Also, he mentioned a Z board, so most likely going to OC.
So why plan a PSU which doesn't offer a good headroom for OCing? Who knows how much power DC will need for OCing
Hello everyone (first post, yay 
)!
I have a strange issue with my GTX 780. Whenever i install an Nvidia Display Driver (335.23 or 337.50) I'm experiencing massive slowdowns when Windows 8.1 enters the Welcome Screen and further until my profile is completely loaded (includes loading of background programs. Removing them from startup did not resolve this issue). No issues whatsoever during heavy load.
I was able to fix this issue by explicitly disabling the integrated GPU on my 4770k, so for some reason both GPUs seem to be conflicting with each other (nothing plugged into the iGPU). I don't plan on using the iGPU anyway but I doubt that disabling it should be necessary. At least i didn't need to do so when i installed my friends system. Anyone know what else could cause this issue?
My newly built System:
CPU: i7 4770k@stock (already runs at a 1.175 VCore under load in Prime95, so I doubt i'll be able to OC this one )
MB: Gigabyte Z87X-D3H Rev 1.1 @F8
RAM: 2x4GB Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3-1600
GPU: MSI 780 Twin Frozr OC (love how quiet the cooler on this one is)
PSU: Be quiet! Straight Power E9 480W
SSD: Crucial M500 240GB
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB
Case: Fractal Define R4
Heatsink: Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E
)!I have a strange issue with my GTX 780. Whenever i install an Nvidia Display Driver (335.23 or 337.50) I'm experiencing massive slowdowns when Windows 8.1 enters the Welcome Screen and further until my profile is completely loaded (includes loading of background programs. Removing them from startup did not resolve this issue). No issues whatsoever during heavy load.
I was able to fix this issue by explicitly disabling the integrated GPU on my 4770k, so for some reason both GPUs seem to be conflicting with each other (nothing plugged into the iGPU). I don't plan on using the iGPU anyway but I doubt that disabling it should be necessary. At least i didn't need to do so when i installed my friends system. Anyone know what else could cause this issue?
My newly built System:
CPU: i7 4770k@stock (already runs at a 1.175 VCore under load in Prime95, so I doubt i'll be able to OC this one
)MB: Gigabyte Z87X-D3H Rev 1.1 @F8
RAM: 2x4GB Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3-1600
GPU: MSI 780 Twin Frozr OC (love how quiet the cooler on this one is)
PSU: Be quiet! Straight Power E9 480W
SSD: Crucial M500 240GB
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB
Case: Fractal Define R4
Heatsink: Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E
Don't bother replacing the fans. Mine runs fine overclocked with stock fans at lowest speed and silent.
Get a Seasonic g550 PSU it fits perfect.
I'm running a 3770@4.2ghz with a hyper 212 at 70c max prime95 load. Fan on silent.
And you don't need blower style due to the large exhaust fan, the theory has been tested on overclock.net blower vs aftermarket in the node 304 and there's no difference.
Nostremitus
Member
Newegg 48hour sale
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...0614-_-EMC-050614-Index-_-SSD-_-20226371-L06B
Mushkin Enhanced Chronos MKNSSDCR240GB-7 2.5" 7mm Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
$109
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...0614-_-EMC-050614-Index-_-SSD-_-20226371-L06B
Mushkin Enhanced Chronos MKNSSDCR240GB-7 2.5" 7mm Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
$109
Oh, nice, thanks for this. I want it to be actually turned off (not just in sleep) when not using it, so this will come in handy. I think I'll go for something smaller than your setup, probably lower and wider. Ideally, something like a Wii, but I'm guessing normal components dont fit into such small enclosures and you have to use those MiniPC solutions with everything already included. Hngh.
Yeah, I'll probably just get this idea out of my head. It would mean a much more expensive CPU, better cooling if OC, etc. My non-OCed first gen i5 has no problems with emulating (at least the ones I've tried) GC games, so maybe a CPU similar to that would be cheaper and less problematic.
I want to thank the OP for pointing me towards the Corsair Air 540 case. This is such a well designed case and the 2nd compartment made my build very clean and cable management was a breeze. This case does a great job at moving air through it with the 3 140mm fans that are included. Mounting my H110 rad was also a breeze in this case.
PC Specs:
CPU: i7 4930k Hexacore
Mobo: Asus Rampage IV Gene (already had this laying around)
RAM: 16GB G-Skill 2133MHz
Video Card: SLI'ed Evga 780Ti SCs
HDDs: 1x OCZ Agility 3 120GB SSD, 2x Crucial M500 480GB SSDs, 1TB WD Black, 1.5TB WD Green
PSU: XFX Modular 1250w PSU
Cooler: Corsair H110
Case: Corsair Air 540 Black
Keyboard: Cooler Master 10keyless Mechanical with Cherry MX Green Switches
Mouse: MadCatz Cyborg MMO 7
Monitor: Asus 27" 144Hz
Headset: Sennheiser PC360
Speakers: Bose Companion 5
PC Specs:
CPU: i7 4930k Hexacore
Mobo: Asus Rampage IV Gene (already had this laying around)
RAM: 16GB G-Skill 2133MHz
Video Card: SLI'ed Evga 780Ti SCs
HDDs: 1x OCZ Agility 3 120GB SSD, 2x Crucial M500 480GB SSDs, 1TB WD Black, 1.5TB WD Green
PSU: XFX Modular 1250w PSU
Cooler: Corsair H110
Case: Corsair Air 540 Black
Keyboard: Cooler Master 10keyless Mechanical with Cherry MX Green Switches
Mouse: MadCatz Cyborg MMO 7
Monitor: Asus 27" 144Hz
Headset: Sennheiser PC360
Speakers: Bose Companion 5
killertofu
Member
I've been having some trouble with my computer lately. Sometimes the fans will just start kicking in like crazy and the screen goes black
phxxBullet
Banned
That's one beast build, I'm a bit jealous hehe
Also, how is the CM keyless? I've been thinking about getting a mechanical board o replace my old G110 and I like the design, since the keys are blank on the top.
When does this happen? Which fans? All? Only GPU? Only CPU? Only the case fans?
C'mon, we need some info to help you
TheRagnCajun
Member
So GAF, my new computer has maybe a 28 second start time from when I push the power button. Specs below (running Windows 8.1):
The windows boot is super-fast. Maybe only 8 seconds, but it takes 20 seconds for the BIOS to do its thing. In fact, I think there's about 5 seconds before the BIOS screen flashes.
Just wondering if this is a normal boot time or what.
The windows boot is super-fast. Maybe only 8 seconds, but it takes 20 seconds for the BIOS to do its thing. In fact, I think there's about 5 seconds before the BIOS screen flashes.
Just wondering if this is a normal boot time or what.
phxxBullet
Banned
First, SSDs don't improve the BIOS boot time itself. But 20 seconds boot time seems like there's something wrong. Mine takes like 8-10 seconds.
Well, there are way to improve BIOS loading time too, but I never bothered trying to improve it, as I might fk up more than improve it.
Best is to wait for someone who knows more about that stuff.
// Don't take my words, on it, just a quick google:
also
Thanks, I am hoping to stick with this build for as long as possible.
The CM 10keyless is awesome. Mine has a green LED backlight, which I wish were blue or red, but I guess it makes sense CM put a green backlight on a board with green switches. I like having the extra space on my desk since this is about 2/3 the size of a normal keyboard and I still have the same functionality of the 10 keys cut out if I toggle my Num lock on and off. The build quality of the keyboard is excellent and the keys are a dream tot type with.
I recommend trying out the CM Storm demo board found here http://www.cmstore-usa.com/mechanical-key-switch-demo-board/ if you are not sure which switch type you want. I was convinced I wanted MX Brown switches from my research on the web until I tried out this demo unit and realized I preferred green switches much more.
Turn off anything you don't use in BIOS, eg. wifi card (if there is one), Marvell SATA controllers, on board audio if you use a sound card or USB headphone, etc.
So i ended up using the Asus OC tunning option in the BIOS (not the software that comes separate, its actually built into the BIOS itself) and it actually worked great. Im getting slightly better performance than I was when I OCed manually and the temps when gaming seem to be the same (highs hit about 60C on a 3570k at over 4.2 g (it uses a BLCK of 103 with a 41x multiplier) and it automatically sets a ton of other settings that i wouldn't normally use.
Has anyone else used the Asus settings? i've read some mixed reviews but judging from my temps (which are about the same) and performance overall im pretty happy with it. I saved my personal custom settings in a profile to go back to if i needed them but im thinking i might stick with these.
anyone else have experience with this?
Has anyone else used the Asus settings? i've read some mixed reviews but judging from my temps (which are about the same) and performance overall im pretty happy with it. I saved my personal custom settings in a profile to go back to if i needed them but im thinking i might stick with these.
anyone else have experience with this?
Sectorseven
Member
Do we know anything "real world" about SATA Express yet, like are SSDs that support it going to be noticeably faster?
Node 605 maybe, or a RVZ01.
The issue is you dont know a whole bunch of things it changed. I prefer to be in charge over my hardware when I am the one responsible for it. The Auto OC stuff isnt totally ideal, such as you maybe able to reduce Vcore, it probably raised PLL which would be unnecessary, same with VTT if running 1600Mhz Ram. Your overclock is so minor that you should have no trouble setting it up with only having to change Vcore anyways.
For a quick low down on main settings:
Vcore - Voltage to the CPU Core (Main tweak point)
VTT (aka VCCIO/QPI/IMC)- Intel Memory Controller Voltage (Useful for high bclk or running RAM over the CPU supported RAM speed).
VCCSA - System Agent Voltage - Generally doesnt need tweaking much at all, but +0.05v can help.
CPU PLL - CPU phase lock loop voltage, tries to keep the clocks in sync, generally stock is fine, sometimes less helps. Big heat producer.
LLC - Load Line Calibration - The higher this setting the less VCore drop you have between Load and Idle VCore, this must be set with a fixed voltage, then revert to offset once you have set the correct level where the idle Vcore is very similar to load Vcore.
VDimm - Ram Voltage - See RAM specs, or if overclocking raising this can help, diminishing returns.
I'm not sure what you mean about the changes? i was able to go into the BIOS after the autotunning was done and I could see all the settings for myself.
But if you didnt set them your self last time, it means you havent fully understood why those need tweaking, and more importantly if they even need tweaking at all - likely not.
And here is some more useful info
LGA 1155 Sandy Bridge
BSOD Codes for SandyBridge
0x124 = add/remove vcore or QPI/VTT voltage (usually Vcore, once it was QPI/VTT)
0x101 = add more vcore
0x50 = RAM timings/Frequency add DDR3 voltage or add QPI/VTT
0x1E = add more vcore
0x3B = add more vcore
0xD1 = add QPI/VTT voltage
0x9C = QPI/VTT most likely, but increasing vcore has helped in some instances
0X109 = add DDR3 voltage
0x0A = add QPI/VTT voltage
0x1A = Memory management error. It usually means a bad stick of Ram. Test with Memtest or whatever you prefer. Try raising your Ram voltage. Can also mean more juice for the south bridge ICH volts
0x19: memory voltage
If you use this info and info in my last post, you can get a very optimal setup which isnt over compensating in anyway and will prolong the life of your components.
Real world SATA express will be faster, but there are few things that need faster. Non-linear video editing, impatient file transfers, ummm epeen? It terms of the snappy desktop experience it will be the same.
Nostremitus
Member
Most of the reviews are pretty good, but there were a few DOAs. I haven't had any experience with them personally. Good price for the size, speed, and IOPS, though. (As long as it isn't DOA)
Yes, they will be faster, but real-world depends on what you're doing.
Since we're on GAF, games is the primary focus, all you're really talking about is improved load and install times. There's a decent article on SATA Express at Anandtech.
The idea behind SATA Express is basically to use PCI-E lanes to enhance SATA3. It should be possible to hit 2GB/s transfer rates, verses SATA3's peak 600MB/s. Replacing the old AHCI controller interface with NVMe also brings performance improvements that scale properly with CPU threads.
As the article notes, there's no real performance difference between SATA Express and a PCI-E SSD when that article was made. But PCI-E SSDs are really pricey still and SATA Express could help bring that performance at a lower price point.
It depends on adoption, and it looks like from the Z97 leaks that SATA Express will be available on new boards from ASUS and Gigabyte at least, so fingers crossed for some proper SATA Express SSDs soon.
RumblingRosco
Member
I wish there were sales figures for the CM Hyper 212+. I'd love to know how many have been sold, what it costs to manufacture, and how profitable they've been for CM.
And how many links to the buy pages have come from GAF
Throw money at Scogoth until he sells you his 680 and buys a 780.
And how many links to the buy pages have come from GAF
We'd be minted m8
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