• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

Status
Not open for further replies.
Yeah, I guess I should just go for the i5 and the 2x4gig...I just feel like my cpu is bogging down my GTX 650 but I'm not sure.

Just want to get whatever will give me the biggest performance increase. Not sure how a GTX 760 will be performing alongside my current cpu.

My PSU is just a 450W Antec...not that great. I never planned on having a crazy setup. Just something modest at least.
Might aswell go for another 2x2, if it's about the $. You'll see some increase in heavy games or when multitasking. 2x4 isn't needed, since ther are hardly and problems with 4sticks (when they are all at the same speed and timings), your mobo has the needed slots, and I'm 100% sure you'll need 2 new mobos and CPUs when times come where 16gb will be a must-have, so no need to upgrade further on your current mobo.
Is there any decent upgrades for me to get? I like to play at 1080p 60fps and I've been able to do this awhile, had my PC for almost a year though and usually I upgrade at that time. I think I might just keep going with current setup until 4k TVs get lower and better or a sickly efficient graphics card comes out.

i5 3570k delid @ 4.9ghz
GTX 780 overclocked 3,200 on valley
H100i
SSD
6GB Ram
Yeah, go for 8gig RAM. Other than that, everything is fine.

I have everything put together and I installed Windows.

Two issues I'm running into:

1) Windows isn't seeing my second hard drive when I go into "My Computer." I know it's installed and getting power, because when I installed Windows, I had the option to install it on the 128gb SSD or the 2TB hard drive. Obv I chose the SSD, but why isn't the 2 TB showing up in Windows?

2) It's not recognizing my sound card (Creative Soundblaster ZXR). I went to install the drivers and I'm getting this "no equipment found" type of error message. I guess my next step is to just pull it out and put it back in, see if that does anything, but I'm not sure what to do if that doesn't work.

Another question:

I installed the drivers for the motherboard off of the disc that came with it, but then I went to the Asus website to get the latest releases. When I look up my MB, it says there are 74 files to dl. Which ones do I DL? All of them? Only the latest in each folder?

http://www.service.asus.com/#!downloads/c1wax
1) Try to go to the disk management and re-allocate
2) uff.. never had a dedicated sound card, but I'd say put it out and in again, delete the drivers if there are any from your mobos soundcard and try to install your Creative ones.

Depends, you won't need ALL of the DLs which are available, and by far not every version of the same driver.
 

Serandur

Member
Is there any decent upgrades for me to get? I like to play at 1080p 60fps and I've been able to do this awhile, had my PC for almost a year though and usually I upgrade at that time. I think I might just keep going with current setup until 4k TVs get lower and better or a sickly efficient graphics card comes out.

i5 3570k delid @ 4.9ghz
GTX 780 overclocked 3,200 on valley
H100i
SSD
6GB Ram

Go with what phxxbullet said, I just wanted to comment on the CPU and say that's a really nice overclock. The 780's still pretty much top of the line too, with a decent overclock.
 
So, I have some questions about my build. So far, I am not really happy with performance for the price, and I am worried about the temps since I would like to OC to 4.2-4.4.

This is what I have in there
I5-4670k at stock
Corsair h60 CPU cooler
PNY GTX 770 2GB
8GB Kingston Hyper x Blu 1600mhz
Gigabyte z87n - Wifi

In a Bitfenix Prodigy with the CPU cooler pump running on the CPU fan header, and then a Front intake, rear exhaust and Corsair H60 Intake pushing over the the spreader on the top of the machine via a three way splitter on the SYS fan header. This MOBO only has two headers for fans.

Right now, I get anywhere from 36-45 degrees idle, and 70-84 while gaming running say ESO at 1080p Ultra and Wildstar at Ultra with only high SGSAA ( think that is what it is).

Just starting up, running Prime95 as it is and just hitting test it instantly jumps up to around 90 degrees.. Isn't that a bit high at stock voltage? ESO for the most part performs fine at those settings, and while Wildstar has been seen as unoptimized and it is a beta, performance in certain areas is bad, and well, strange. Like remember when you were playing 8 bit or 16 bit games, and to much was going on at once and everything just performed like it was going through water? Not really a framerate drop, as fraps still says frame rate is near 60, but everything just slows down.

I originally got a Noctua C14 but that didn't fit on my mobo, so I got the Corsair. I am not certain that the corsair is even working to be honest, originally I know it was either not working, or wasn't seated properly because even booting up a game would cause the PC to shut down. I took it out and reseated it, and I think it is working now, but I am not sure what kind of noise the pump is supposed to make. Right now, I couldn't tell you any noise it makes other than a faint like clicking sound, but that sounds like it is coming from the Fan and not the pump.

I really wanted a mini itx case for the size, but with the problems with the original Noctua not fitting and everything now, I really wish I had gone with at least a mini itx. I built a system last year with an i5-3570k, hyper 212 and MSI mobo in an Fractal R4 and had no problems with temps even with a 4.2 OC.

I am really considering scrapping most of it and starting over. I bought from amazon so returns arent an issue, but I am thinking that I might at least exchange out the H60 and see if that is the problem. I am also kind of wishing I had just gotten a r9 280 for the extra 80 bucks compared the to GTX770.

Any suggestions if there is something odd going on here? And steps that I might be able to take to fix the issue?
 

hitgirl

Member
Go with what phxxbullet said, I just wanted to comment on the CPU and say that's a really nice overclock. The 780's still pretty much top of the line too, with a decent overclock.

Thanks! Gaf member here delid the CPU and that helped the temp so much.
 

b0bbyJ03

Member
When overclocking, I run prime95 with no issues but i noticed some weird performance issues like the computer didnt open up certain programs without a reboot or didnt allow me to access the options in the charms menu (windows 8.1). Other than stress testing are these indications that the overclock is not stable or was this just a random occurence (both things happened on two separate instances)
 

Zeth

Member
My Qnix monitor should arrive today or tomorrow. Now to see how long it takes before I decide to upgrade from my 680 2GB. I mainly play Dota 2 and racing sims, so nothing too demanding, and I've been downsampling from 1440P for the past year with pretty good results in several games.

Dota is the only thing that worries me - at 1080P I do get some slowdown in massive fights but I think that's difficult to avoid? Or I can turn off the most demanding effects. I've been tempted to get a 780/290 - but I feel waiting until later this year will yield a better performance increase/value.

Quick question: this is what's listed for power supply: 100 - 240 VAC, 50/60Hz. That's US right? No need for an adapter?
 
When overclocking, I run prime95 with no issues but i noticed some weird performance issues like the computer didnt open up certain programs without a reboot or didnt allow me to access the options in the charms menu (windows 8.1). Other than stress testing are these indications that the overclock is not stable or was this just a random occurence (both things happened on two separate instances)

How long are you running prime95?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Very nice. What kind of tubing/piping is that?
10mm copper pipe that I painted.
My 3770K seems to be a bit of a bum chip (or maybe it's normal and I have unrealistic expectations), each step past 4.2 GHz seems to require more and more voltage. The absolute minimum for just entry-level stability for 4.4 GHz through about 15 rounds of IBT on high is 1.236v, and my 212 EVO cannot cool well enough for me to dare push much higher. I'll be replacing it with a Phanteks PH-TC14PE and I would like to get to 4.6 GHz utilizing the offset method for final usage without exceeding ~1.3v, but I don't think that's going to be possible. I have my XMP profile disabled and PLL voltage doesn't seem to play much of a role in stability. I'm also on a Z77X-UD3H. Any advice? Would the lowered heat with the new cooler potentially increase stability with less voltage?
You're hitting the heat wall where the internal TIM isn't able to transfer the heat properly. You either need to delid, or just be happy with a 4.4ish overclock. A better cooler isn't going to save you from those really high temps.
So, I have some questions about my build. So far, I am not really happy with performance for the price, and I am worried about the temps since I would like to OC to 4.2-4.4.

This is what I have in there
I5-4670k at stock
Corsair h60 CPU cooler
PNY GTX 770 2GB
8GB Kingston Hyper x Blu 1600mhz
Gigabyte z87n - Wifi

In a Bitfenix Prodigy with the CPU cooler pump running on the CPU fan header, and then a Front intake, rear exhaust and Corsair H60 Intake pushing over the the spreader on the top of the machine via a three way splitter on the SYS fan header. This MOBO only has two headers for fans.

Right now, I get anywhere from 36-45 degrees idle, and 70-84 while gaming running say ESO at 1080p Ultra and Wildstar at Ultra with only high SGSAA ( think that is what it is).

Just starting up, running Prime95 as it is and just hitting test it instantly jumps up to around 90 degrees.. Isn't that a bit high at stock voltage? ESO for the most part performs fine at those settings, and while Wildstar has been seen as unoptimized and it is a beta, performance in certain areas is bad, and well, strange. Like remember when you were playing 8 bit or 16 bit games, and to much was going on at once and everything just performed like it was going through water? Not really a framerate drop, as fraps still says frame rate is near 60, but everything just slows down.

I originally got a Noctua C14 but that didn't fit on my mobo, so I got the Corsair. I am not certain that the corsair is even working to be honest, originally I know it was either not working, or wasn't seated properly because even booting up a game would cause the PC to shut down. I took it out and reseated it, and I think it is working now, but I am not sure what kind of noise the pump is supposed to make. Right now, I couldn't tell you any noise it makes other than a faint like clicking sound, but that sounds like it is coming from the Fan and not the pump.

I really wanted a mini itx case for the size, but with the problems with the original Noctua not fitting and everything now, I really wish I had gone with at least a mini itx. I built a system last year with an i5-3570k, hyper 212 and MSI mobo in an Fractal R4 and had no problems with temps even with a 4.2 OC.

I am really considering scrapping most of it and starting over. I bought from amazon so returns arent an issue, but I am thinking that I might at least exchange out the H60 and see if that is the problem. I am also kind of wishing I had just gotten a r9 280 for the extra 80 bucks compared the to GTX770.

Any suggestions if there is something odd going on here? And steps that I might be able to take to fix the issue?
Do you have the H60 plugged into molex power or one of the fan headers?
 
The fan for the H60 is plugged into the SYS fan header that is currently running It, and the front and rear Fans via a 3 way splitter. The Pump is running off the CPU fan header by itself, and in the bios is says that the CPU fan speed is 4k RPM.
 

kennah

Member
NeoGAF Plus Buyer & Gold Seller

Payment is to be made through any of the following options: Amazon Gift Card, PayPal, or Simple Instant.

If applicable, item prices listed below include shipping costs for USPS' Priority Mail Service (2-3 Day) within the United States.

▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬

Microsoft Xbox 360 Controller for Windows - $20 Shipped

Detailed Information

• Like New Condition
• No Original Packaging

▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬

Should you have a purchase claim or any questions, please feel free to send me a PM.
Someone jump on this
 
My Qnix monitor should arrive today or tomorrow. Now to see how long it takes before I decide to upgrade from my 680 2GB. I mainly play Dota 2 and racing sims, so nothing too demanding, and I've been downsampling from 1440P for the past year with pretty good results in several games.

Dota is the only thing that worries me - at 1080P I do get some slowdown in massive fights but I think that's difficult to avoid? Or I can turn off the most demanding effects. I've been tempted to get a 780/290 - but I feel waiting until later this year will yield a better performance increase/value.

Quick question: this is what's listed for power supply: 100 - 240 VAC, 50/60Hz. That's US right? No need for an adapter?
Oh cool!

What CPU do you have? I'd say the slowdowns in Dota are cause of the CPU and not the GPU.
 

scogoth

Member
My Qnix monitor should arrive today or tomorrow. Now to see how long it takes before I decide to upgrade from my 680 2GB. I mainly play Dota 2 and racing sims, so nothing too demanding, and I've been downsampling from 1440P for the past year with pretty good results in several games.

Dota is the only thing that worries me - at 1080P I do get some slowdown in massive fights but I think that's difficult to avoid? Or I can turn off the most demanding effects. I've been tempted to get a 780/290 - but I feel waiting until later this year will yield a better performance increase/value.

Quick question: this is what's listed for power supply: 100 - 240 VAC, 50/60Hz. That's US right? No need for an adapter?

Yes that is US
 

mkenyon

Banned
My Qnix monitor should arrive today or tomorrow. Now to see how long it takes before I decide to upgrade from my 680 2GB. I mainly play Dota 2 and racing sims, so nothing too demanding, and I've been downsampling from 1440P for the past year with pretty good results in several games.

Dota is the only thing that worries me - at 1080P I do get some slowdown in massive fights but I think that's difficult to avoid? Or I can turn off the most demanding effects. I've been tempted to get a 780/290 - but I feel waiting until later this year will yield a better performance increase/value.

Quick question: this is what's listed for power supply: 100 - 240 VAC, 50/60Hz. That's US right? No need for an adapter?
What CPU and at what frequency is it currently at? Dota 2 massively benefits from increased clockspeed.

*edit* sorry on double post.
 

Zeth

Member
What CPU and at what frequency is it currently at? Dota 2 massively benefits from increased clockspeed.

*edit* sorry on double post.

It's a 3570K at 4.1Ghz w/ hyper 212 evo. Might be something else, idk. I think I can go higher, I just went with the lazy Asus auto-OC (which is likely not ideal).
 
It's a 3570K at 4.1Ghz w/ hyper 212 evo. Might be something else, idk. I think I can go higher, I just went with the lazy Asus auto-OC (which is likely not ideal).
Well, may be the CPU, but shouldn't @4,1 GHz. No idea about this auto-OC thingie though.

Is 2gb video ram the minimum for games coming out?

I don't see 2gig video ram going to be minimum for at least another 6 months, maybe even a year.
 

MattyG

Banned
I'm not sure if this is the right thread to be asking this in, but I don't see any other applicable threads that are active.

I built my first gaming PC in February. For about a month or two, there were no issues. Then, in late March, my GPU started making this noise whenever I played anything.
http://youtu.be/_kL3fpb-MM4
(This isn't my vid, just similar to my situation)

Most of the times (when playing some games there is no noise, but more often than not, there is) that something is being rendered, a noise similar to that comes from my GPU. If the framerate drops, the noise does too. If I alt+tab, the noise stops immediately.

I couldn't find any answers, and as there was no visible hit to performance, I was hesitant to RMA the card (I'd rather keep my new one with an issue that isn't really doing harm at the moment than get a refurbished one that's probably been busted worse before). But I get very concerned about things like this, so I haven't really touched it in a month or two (the last game I played was Titanfall). Oh, and a couple days ago, a buddy of mine started having the same noise. Seems like a fairly common issue, but I can't find info on it.

I just wanted to ask you guys, is this something I should be concerned about? Could this mess up other components? Or is it safe to just throw some headphones on and ignore?

Specs:
EVGA GTX 760 SC w/ACX cooling
i5 3570k @3.4 ghz
Z75 mobo
600w Corsair PSU
8GB RAM
 

hitsugi

Member
It's a great deal, but the reference cooler is BUTTS and the card will hit 95C and throttle unless it's as loud as a jet engine pretty much. So I'd look to replace it.

yup. the only thing stopping me from getting it. replacing the cooler would likely put you into the price range of a different card altogether
 
I hate to bring this up again but my friend is chomping at the bit to order this thing but I want to run this by PC gaf before I pass this on to him:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($334.97 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Pro4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($69.07 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280X 3GB Dual-X Video Card ($299.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($52.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1052.96
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-04 20:44 EDT-0400)

This is a part list I came up for a friend. Is there any issues here? I'm sure PC Gaf would suggest an i5 over and i7 and put the extra money in the GPU but he feels strongly about going with an i7. The price is already pushing up against his budget. He wants to fit Windows and a monitor in under $1200 total, so I really can't go up, only down.
 
I hate to bring this up again but my friend is chomping at the bit to order this thing but I want to run this by PC gaf before I pass this on to him:

Dump that i7 and go for a cheaper i5, and get a better GPU or a waaay better SSD for the money saved.
Is the VRM making that noise? I just never thought a graphics card could do that.
Sure they can
May be the OPs case: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/357676-31-noticeable-coil-whine-games-minimized

Also: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-1654959/gpu-coil-whine.html
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/373190-33-coil-noise-whine
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/368401-33-should-coil-whine-7970
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/372735-33-coil-whine

And so on.
 

You know what? I just realized my PC does it too but only when running the full 3D Mark 11 benchmark and it's right at the beginning. I was always wondering what that was and never bothered investigating as that's the only time its ever happened.
 
i really need june 2 (and devil's canyon) to get here so i can finalize my damn build already, i'm getting sick of tinkering with every other part of this

I hate to bring this up again but my friend is chomping at the bit to order this thing but I want to run this by PC gaf before I pass this on to him:

unless he actually needs any functions of the 4770K over the 4670K, tell him to stop being an idiot and go for something like this

(replaced i7 with i5, used savings to replace that SSD with a 250GB EVO; i hope to god he has a micro center near him, otherwise downgrade the EVO to 120)
 

MattyG

Banned
Yeah, I think that may be it. I was under the impression that coil whine was always a high pitched squeal that happened with high FPS, but from what you posted it sounds like it can be more of a buzz (like mine) which happens under load. It makes sense, as it happens in more taxing/unoptimized games (happens in Bioshock Infinite, Civ V, State of Decay and Thief, but strangely not heavily modded Skyrim or FO:NV. It does occur in less taxing indie games like Fez though, which is strange as well).

I just wanted to be completely positive that me ignoring it wouldn't lead to my whole rig getting messed up. I'm new to this whole thing, so I don't know if parts that may be faulty can screw up the others. All I could imagine for the last month was turning it on and the whole PC just getting destroyed (bit of an irrational fear haha). As long as it's safe, that's all I care about! Thanks for the answer!
 
unless he actually needs any functions of the 4770K over the 4670K, tell him to stop being an idiot and go for something like this

(replaced i7 with i5, used savings to replace that SSD with a 250GB EVO; i hope to god he has a micro center near him, otherwise downgrade the EVO to 120)

He's an architectural engineer that owns his own business and he'll be using this machine for work and gaming. He feels he can utilize as much CPU as he can get. I probably should have mentioned that in the original post.
 

Ashhong

Member
Sounds like coil whine to me.

if it's the case, it's annoying, but nothing to worry about.

Huh, is that coil whine? I thought it was a different sound. I have been hearing this faint high pitched noise that I thought was coil whine. Maybe what I'm hearing is some kind of frequency feedback

edit: do you guys think my old rig is worth anything?

Antec 300 Case
Intel Core2Duo 2.8ghz E7400
Asus Arctic Square CPU Cooler
8GB Corsair XMS2 DDR-800 RAM
Asus 512mb Radeon HD 4870 Dark Knight Edition
PCI Wireless N Network Adapter
Corsair VX550w Power Supply
320GB Seagate Hard Drive

I will also be throwing in Windows 8.1 Pro with it. Was hoping I could get like 300 on craigslist. Too much?
 

Rafy

Member
900x900px-LL-5066e815_13a.jpeg

An engineering sample (ES) of the GeForce GTX 880 was intercepted on its way from a factory in China, to NVIDIA's development center in India, where it will probably undergo testing and further development. The shipping manifest of the courier ferrying NVIDIA's precious package was sniffed out by the Chinese press. NVIDIA was rather descriptive about the ES, in its shipping declaration. Buzzwords include "GM204" and "8 GB GDDR5," hinting at what could two of the most important items on its specs sheet. GM204 is a successor of GK104, and is rumored to feature 3,200 CUDA cores, among other things, including a 256-bit wide memory bus. If NVIDIA is cramming 8 GB onto the card, it must be using some very high density memory chips. The manifest also declares its market value at around 47,000 Indian Rupees. It may convert to US $780, but adding all taxes and local markups, 47,000 INR is usually where $500-ish graphics cards end up in the Indian market. The R9 290X, for example, is going for that much.

http://www.techpowerup.com/200505/g...n-route-testing-lab-features-8-gb-memory.html
 

apresmode

Neo Member
Yikes. First time builder here. I was putting my build together in a Fractal Design Node 605, and I noticed that the front audio and firewire cords have broken wires at the connection with the case. I thought maybe I could take the mount off and then just unhook those. Unfortunately my mobo doesn't have a firewire and maybe I can just get a replacement audio cord from the manufacturer so I can do without those features. Well, it seems impossible to remove the connections for these two parts. I'd still like to leave the front USB 3 connections so I thought maybe I could just cut them, but it sounded like a terrible idea.

Any opinions?
EZQ4MCW
 

LilJoka

Member
They are NVIDIA's own estimates, so I'd say it's pretty accurate.

Considering its rumored itll sit between the 780 and 780ti, its probably a close estimate on price after optimizations have been made to the design over the 7xx series.
 

LilJoka

Member
Yikes. First time builder here. I was putting my build together in a Fractal Design Node 605, and I noticed that the front audio and firewire cords have broken wires at the connection with the case. I thought maybe I could take the mount off and then just unhook those. Unfortunately my mobo doesn't have a firewire and maybe I can just get a replacement audio cord from the manufacturer so I can do without those features. Well, it seems impossible to remove the connections for these two parts. I'd still like to leave the front USB 3 connections so I thought maybe I could just cut them, but it sounded like a terrible idea.

Any opinions?
EZQ4MCW

Get the case replaced.
 
in that case

still tell him to change the sandisk to a samsung 840 evo

Hey, that Sandisk was cheaper when I originally added it (I have some experience with it, it's actually not a bad drive that's often well discounted, not worth the compromise when its price is so close to other better drives.) Now that I'm seeing current pricing, I would go with the Samsung 840 EVO or the Crucial M500 for a little less.

Thanks!
 
For anyone with coil whine, adjust your voltages. Coil whine/noise is generally caused by a vibration in the coils from resonant frequencies. Voltages have certain frequencies and if they happen to match the resonant frequencies in your coils you get noise.

I was getting coil noise in my rig. I adjusted voltages ever so slightly higher and it went away. Might not work for everyone but it's a simple fix that worked for me. The other alternative is to dampen your coils with glue or paraffin.
 

maneil99

Member
XL2420Z it is then... Who do we believe? I guess it will be more expensive too... 144hz here I come! Make me a believer
Ral2hQA.png
 

scogoth

Member
Yikes. First time builder here. I was putting my build together in a Fractal Design Node 605, and I noticed that the front audio and firewire cords have broken wires at the connection with the case. I thought maybe I could take the mount off and then just unhook those. Unfortunately my mobo doesn't have a firewire and maybe I can just get a replacement audio cord from the manufacturer so I can do without those features. Well, it seems impossible to remove the connections for these two parts. I'd still like to leave the front USB 3 connections so I thought maybe I could just cut them, but it sounded like a terrible idea.

Any opinions?
EZQ4MCW

They are usually soldered to the daughter board so you can't just replace the cable. Contact fractal and ask them to send you another daughter board or you may have to get the whole case replaced.
 

Tablo

Member
^BenQ why D:
Also, so hyped for GTX 880, gimme dat better than 780 Ti perf at 500$, don't fail me now Nvidia! I kind of am doubting the 8 GB GDDR5 though, that's a lot, I would expect they would stick to 4GB...Hmmm...
 

jakomocha

Member
sdjfhaskjdf
Go mATX
Drop Seidon for an air cooler (212 EVO or whatever), or a single 120mm rad water cooler like an H60. You don't need water. You don't even need aftermarket if you aren't going to overclock.
Get a Samsung EVO SSD instead
Get a modular PSU, I don't have a model for your 750W and the PSU section needs updating thanks to Corsair releasing 20 fucking PSUs, but the Gold Seasonic or Rosewill HIVE are good value.
Get Win 8.1 off /r/software swap for $20
You don't need such an expensive 140mm fan for one exhaust since it can only mount on top and side (although it would work well as a side intake)

Any parts you swap in you should justify, like 'more powerful motherboard' means what? Motherboards does 0.1% for performance.
Powerful was poor word choice. I meant that it has more slots and space. Also, I don't need an mATX, I have over 30 inches of space for height. This is the power supply. It's semi-modular, is that okay? Thanks for telling me about software swap, there are some great deals on there.

I know I've asked this many times, but what do you guys think about the GTX 780 Lightning? Is it a waste? I could get the EVGA Classified for $10 more (which will only give me 4-5 extra frames at 1440p) or Twin Frozr for $50 less (which will cause a loss of basically up to 10 frames, which can be a big deal at 1440p).

How is this build? Someone from Tom's Hardware recommended it to me. It's much cheaper than my current build, but how much performance and quality will I be sacrificing?
 

mkenyon

Banned
I'm not sure if this is the right thread to be asking this in, but I don't see any other applicable threads that are active.

I built my first gaming PC in February. For about a month or two, there were no issues. Then, in late March, my GPU started making this noise whenever I played anything.
http://youtu.be/_kL3fpb-MM4
(This isn't my vid, just similar to my situation)

Most of the times (when playing some games there is no noise, but more often than not, there is) that something is being rendered, a noise similar to that comes from my GPU. If the framerate drops, the noise does too. If I alt+tab, the noise stops immediately.

I couldn't find any answers, and as there was no visible hit to performance, I was hesitant to RMA the card (I'd rather keep my new one with an issue that isn't really doing harm at the moment than get a refurbished one that's probably been busted worse before). But I get very concerned about things like this, so I haven't really touched it in a month or two (the last game I played was Titanfall). Oh, and a couple days ago, a buddy of mine started having the same noise. Seems like a fairly common issue, but I can't find info on it.

I just wanted to ask you guys, is this something I should be concerned about? Could this mess up other components? Or is it safe to just throw some headphones on and ignore?

Specs:
EVGA GTX 760 SC w/ACX cooling
i5 3570k @3.4 ghz
Z75 mobo
600w Corsair PSU
8GB RAM
What games? That sounds like VRM pops, and you're going to hear that whenever the frame rate is at ridiculous levels, like 200+. If it is happening even at 60 FPS, RMA it.

That is definitely not coil whine. Coil whine is a high pitch electrical noise, like old TVs/CRTs.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom