Don't know if this is the best place to ask, but I have a friend (out of state) who needs a new computer sub 500 dollar range. He doesn't want to build one so do you guys have any recommendations on sites for prebuilt computers. Also any tips/configs that I should be on the look out for at these ranges?
Hey, kind of dumb question here. I have a pretty old gaming computer whose age is probably best described by the fact that it has Windows XP on it. Unfortunately they're finally starting to make games that drop compatibility and so I want to upgrade to Windows 7 -- but I'm having a liquidity problem right now and can't upgrade the whole computer as I'd like to. I'm thinking about getting an SSD and putting Windows 7 on it, so that I can just keep that drive when I upgrade everything else.
Is it safe for me to get an OEM copy of Windows 7 for this? I've read that OEM copies will stop working if you change out computer parts, but I've also read that you can just transfer them over without much trouble, so I'm not really sure what I ought to do.
So during all my planing of making a htpc, I never really thought about how to control it lol. It's basically going to become my all in one media center for Netflix, videos, and adding a cheap Blu-ray drive. Any good remotes I should look at? I found this thing called a air mouse that looks cool. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SZU0T4/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Any other ideas? Should be simple enough my 9 year old could use it.
Also found this $60 harmony remote. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OVECU0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Just a quick question. I have an i7 2600k on a Gigabyte z68 ud7 I believe I have it at 4.5 but it seems I have to have it at 1.35 volts with the oc level 7? I'm pretty new to overclock in and I'm worried the volts are high. Seems to hit 1.4 volts peak while prime 95 is running. Is this OK? Any tips for this mobo?
If I get a gigabyte windforce GTX780, do they blow air out the slots, or into the case? My CPU cooler radiator is set as exhaust (I don't have any space for any other fans as exhaust) although the too is open so I could just let the air find its ow way out
Currently have a bitfenix prodigy with 200mm front intake, and h60 on the rear as exhaust. Top vents are blocked as I have a bluray drive in the 5.25" bay
So during all my planing of making a htpc, I never really thought about how to control it lol. It's basically going to become my all in one media center for Netflix, videos, and adding a cheap Blu-ray drive. Any good remotes I should look at? I found this thing called a air mouse that looks cool. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SZU0T4/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Any other ideas? Should be simple enough my 9 year old could use it.
Also found this $60 harmony remote. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OVECU0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
What other device do you want to control? If your kit is HDMI-CEC compatible you could consider a phase-8 USB HDMI CEC adapter! which would let you use your TVs remote to control eg xbmc or plex
I'm looking to build my very own hardcore Gaming PC next month or in March, and I would like to play games like Final Fantasy XIV: A Realm Reborn, Rust, DayZ, Crysis 1 and all those high-end games. I also need to run Full HD movies in Plex to my HDTV.
My Current Specs:
None
Budget:
$1.300 - $1.500 + Denmark
Main Use:
Light Gaming - 5
Gaming - 5
Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 5
Video Editing - 2
Streaming games in HD - 2
3D/Model work (and what program) - 0
General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 5
Monitor Resolution:
I want to play my games in 1080p on a HDTV, but I'm also buying 2 more monitors, for a 3-monitor set-up.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
I want 60fps.
I want to run all those effects like TresFX, PhysX etc. in games.
Adobe CS6.
Plex.
Gonna do designs, databases, programming for websites on it.
Looking to reuse any parts?:
No.
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?
Deadline would be March.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)
Maybe, I don't know. I'm not much into the technical computer stuff and have never build a a rig before.
I'm actually thinking of something like a 256GB SSD for storing programs, and then a 2TB HDD for saved data and media etc. Maybe also a DVD reader/burner and Blu-ray reader/burner. It should also be able to let me connect my EyeTV dongle for HD live tv. It should also be as silent as possible, as I'm moving into a very small apartment. It doesn't matter if it's huge. I'm not gonna move it around.
If I get a gigabyte windforce GTX780, do they blow air out the slots, or into the case? My CPU cooler radiator is set as exhaust (I don't have any space for any other fans as exhaust) although the too is open so I could just let the air find its ow way out
Currently have a bitfenix prodigy with 200mm front intake, and h60 on the rear as exhaust. Top vents are blocked as I have a bluray drive in the 5.25" bay
I'm looking to build my very own hardcore Gaming PC next month or in March, and I would like to play games like Final Fantasy XIV: A Realm Reborn, Rust, DayZ, Crysis 1 and all those high-end games. I also need to run Full HD movies in Plex to my HDTV.
My Current Specs:
None
Budget:
$1.300 - $1.500 + Denmark
Main Use:
Light Gaming - 5
Gaming - 5
Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 5
Video Editing - 2
Streaming games in HD - 2
3D/Model work (and what program) - 0
General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 5
Monitor Resolution:
I want to play my games in 1080p on a HDTV, but I'm also buying 2 more monitors, for a 3-monitor set-up.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
I want 60fps.
I want to run all those effects like TresFX, PhysX etc. in games.
Looking to reuse any parts?:
No.
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?
Deadline would be March.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)
Maybe, I don't know. I'm not much into the technical computer stuff and have never build a a rig before.
Especially that is what I'm having trouble with. If I should buy all the parts online from abroad. I don't think they would tax me if I import from British online retailers.
Can you guys recommend a good graphics card for a multi monitor setup?
I want to connect my tv for gaming and two monitors (or three if that is possible) for work (3D Modelling and rendering / Video Editing / painting), so no gaming on multiple monitors. (also the tv and monitors wont be active at the same time since I either work or play)
I would prefer a nvidia card for the benefits in the software I use for my work.
I currently have a 7850oc; Z-77chipset and a budget of max. 250€ (germany).
(...also my mouse wheel just broke, do you guys have any recommendations on a nice wireless mouse?)
i have a change to get a rig that has last years i7 intel in it but it also has a Gigabyte GTX 660 Ti 2 GB. how long will the 660 Ti work and can i play things on high settings.
I've posted this in the previous topic, and received help from numerous kind PCGAF folk, but some of my plans fell through and my upgrade got delayed. Anyway, this is my current rig:
I'm looking to install this GTX 770 in my rig. When I asked before, I was told I should overclock my 2500K to get max performance. What wasn't answered, was if I was to not overclock (due to lack of confidence in handling delicate components/installing the cooling system), and leave some potential power on the table, would my rig still receive a nice performance boost, or even work without said overclocking?
I'm looking to run games with high/max settings on a single 1080p monitor, and overall be ready to tackle some next-gen games (at least for a while!).
Also, if anyone can help a total newbie out, would anyone be able to recommend where to get some cleaning/dusting supplies? Online or retail, whatever works. This PC was a pre-built I purchased from Ibuypower, and I haven't even cracked the case open yet. Only reason I have the confidence to install RAM and a GPU is due to the lack of technical expertise required.
That is a good card to go with. You would be equally serviced with a 760 for a bit less money, giving you a bit to put in the bank and save for another upgrade. But the 770 is no waste of money at all.
In terms of what to use for cleaning the computer, compressed air is what should be used. Just make sure that all fans are held down in place with tape, or even your fingers as you blow over them. Using compressed air on them can kill the bearings.
I use this, but I also do tons of builds, so the investment was worth it to save me money in the long run.
Thanks a bunch! I'm probably going to be sticking to the 770, since I'm after as much power as I can afford. So I should be all set without any other modifications to the build?
Also, thanks for the cleaning tip. I had heard of compressed air, but I'm unsure what brand/bottle/etc. is what I'm looking for. I'm only going to be cleaning my one PC, so I'm afraid I can't afford to invest the premium that vacuum would require.
Can you guys recommend a good graphics card for a multi monitor setup?
I want to connect my tv for gaming and two monitors (or three if that is possible) for work (3D Modelling and rendering / Video Editing / painting), so no gaming on multiple monitors. (also the tv and monitors wont be active at the same time since I either work or play)
I would prefer a nvidia card for the benefits in the software I use for my work.
I currently have a 7850oc; Z-77chipset and a budget of max. 250 (germany).
(...also my mouse wheel just broke, do you guys have any recommendations on a nice wireless mouse?)
Anything from a 650Ti and up should be able to do three monitors and have cuda cores. You don't need a super powerful video card to run windows on multi monitor. I'd recommend minimum of a 760 for around $260 so you get a good amount of cores for your software.
i have a change to get a rig that has last years i7 intel in it but it also has a Gigabyte GTX 660 Ti 2 GB. how long will the 660 Ti work and can i play things on high settings.
Anything from a 650Ti and up should be able to do three monitors and have cuda cores. You don't need a super powerful video card to run windows on multi monitor. I'd recommend minimum of a 760 for around $260 so you get a good amount of cores for your software.
It will work as long as you are happy with the performance. If you've never had a gaming pc before it could last you a long time.
Anything from a 650Ti and up should be able to do three monitors and have cuda cores. You don't need a super powerful video card to run windows on multi monitor. I'd recommend minimum of a 760 for around $260 so you get a good amount of cores for your software.
Hey folks, quick SSD (Crucial M4) support question - I've found threads on their tech forums with similar issues but none of the proposed solutions have worked for me.
Turned on my PC (built from this great thread just over a year ago) last night, Windows logo popped up but then screen faded down and monitor reported no signal from the PC. Repeated reboots produced the same result. The boot priority list in the BIOS doesn't show my SSD (which has my Windows install), but strangely bringing up a separate list of Boot Devices does show it. Manually selecting it from this list produces the same result (begins to start Windows and then dies).
The PC doesn't actually crash or shutdown, so I think the SSD is powering off for whatever reason. I've tried other unused power plugs that I have in the case to no avail. I've also tried various suggested ways of power-cycling the SSD by leaving the PC idle on the BIOS screen for 20+ minutes with only power to the SSD (no SATA data cable) but this hasn't worked either.
Has anyone here encountered a similar issue with these drives?
Hey folks, quick SSD (Crucial M4) support question - I've found threads on their tech forums with similar issues but none of the proposed solutions have worked for me.
Turned on my PC (built from this great thread just over a year ago) last night, Windows logo popped up but then screen faded down and monitor reported no signal from the PC. Repeated reboots produced the same result. The boot priority list in the BIOS doesn't show my SSD (which has my Windows install), but strangely bringing up a separate list of Boot Devices does show it. Manually selecting it from this list produces the same result (begins to start Windows and then dies).
The PC doesn't actually crash or shutdown, so I think the SSD is powering off for whatever reason. I've tried other unused power plugs that I have in the case to no avail. I've also tried various suggested ways of power-cycling the SSD by leaving the PC idle on the BIOS screen for 20+ minutes with only power to the SSD (no SATA data cable) but this hasn't worked either.
Has anyone here encountered a similar issue with these drives?
If you're able to update the firmware I'd do that. I know M4s had an issue that was fixed in a firmware update that didn't start happening for quite a bit of use, but I don't remember specifically what it was. Could be related though.
Western Digital's RMA process has to be gold standard. You get the option of having them send you a replacement drive simultaneously (which I actually didn't take, since I'm not in dire need of the replacement drive and I don't want a hold placed on my credit card). You can have them automatically generate a UPS shipping label with the correct information, and they apply their own company volume discount so you end up paying less for shipping than if you had bought a retail UPS label from the UPS store.
Sapphire on the other hand...I'm still waiting on their third party RMA processor to approve my RMA request since I had to fill out and e-mail them the form, and wait for a human to review the application form...
I recall having a good experience when my WD drive died. Fast and simple, don't remember if I went with the cross-ship option or not. Only real downside was that since it was a few years old they didn't have the model, so my Black was replaced with a Blue. They made up the difference by giving me a slightly larger drive though (640->750GB).
I also had a Samsung HDD die, and I recall that being a pretty smooth process as well.
I recall having a good experience when my WD drive died. Fast and simple, don't remember if I went with the cross-ship option or not. Only real downside was that since it was a few years old they didn't have the model, so my Black was replaced with a Blue. They made up the difference by giving me a slightly larger drive though (640->750GB).
I also had a Samsung HDD die, and I recall that being a pretty smooth process as well.
Western Digital's RMA process has to be gold standard. You get the option of having them send you a replacement drive simultaneously (which I actually didn't take, since I'm not in dire need of the replacement drive and I don't want a hold placed on my credit card). You can have them automatically generate a UPS shipping label with the correct information, and they apply their own company volume discount so you end up paying less for shipping than if you had bought a retail UPS label from the UPS store.
Sapphire on the other hand...I'm still waiting on their third party RMA processor to approve my RMA request since I had to fill out and e-mail them the form, and wait for a human to review the application form...
I am so torn when it comes to building a PC, I have less than zero experience in this and a while back in the last thread had some kind gaffer here give me a good starting point but now I'm wondering if I should wait for a good priced steambox instead?
So many different graphics cards and CPUs it's ridiculous, I know the entry price will be astronomically high but I don't know what parts will be worth it so I don't have to upgrade for a good long while.
All I want is to be able to run all my games at 60 FPS/1080P easily, modding is probably why I'm so hesitant on getting a PS4, I love me some moddable games. I'm not interested in going past 1080p since my computer will just hook up to my TV directly and it only goes up to 1080.
I know somebody gave me a good link to buy win 8 licences for around $20 at reddit which is a fantastic price I just have to find that link again.
I mainly want to keep something that I don't have to upgrade for 2+ years (by then I'll be in a much more comfortable position to go all out).
Is there anything I can replace for a cheaper part? I'm hesitant to change the graphics card since I know that they will always be the most expensive and the ones that make the most dramatic changes in gaming but I also know that there are graphics card that are $100 cheaper for only a -5%/-10% decrease in performance.
My main goal is to get everything around $800 although I'm also saving up a trip to go home in the summer so I may not start building this until after June. It all depends how much I save really. If I can't get to $800 and keep the same performance I'm willing to go up, I just don't want any "excess fat" in this build.
Also is the actual process of putting the pieces together complicated? A pc doesn't actually come with instruction manuals
I'm assuming I just put everything in the box, throw in a roll of duct tape and call it a day.
EDIT: Also out of curiousity what is the average price for an upgrade (I know thats near impossible to tell since there are so many variables).
I recently bought an Asus VG248QE monitor, everything is great but I get a weird problem in the upper left hand corner. When I sit close or move my head I get a weird effect in the top left of the screen that is hard to explain, and I haven't been able to get a picture of it. It is almost grainy or fuzzy like I can see black space inbetween the pixels. If I sit 3 feet away the area looks fine, but that is a little farther than I want to sit. When the lights are off with a black screen the area has a slight purplish tint. The effect is exacerbated when I use the ToastyX app to use Lightboost. I am not sure if this is dithering or banding like reviews talk about, but it only happens in the one corner. I have tried putting pressure on the monitor by squeezing the front and back and the effect diminishes somewhat.
I did an RMA with Asus, but the replacement had the same issue, this time in the upper left and right and the replacement unit had very noticeable clouding in the center so I sent it back. I am currently waiting for them to receive that unit and doing another RMA. Is there anything I can do to ease this problem or do I continue to play the RMA game and hope for the best?
I did an RMA with Asus, but the replacement had the same issue, this time in the upper left and right and the replacement unit had very noticeable clouding in the center so I sent it back. I am currently waiting for them to receive that unit and doing another RMA. Is there anything I can do to ease this problem or do I continue to play the RMA game and hope for the best?
Sounds like you have high standards (a good thing!), and this is fairly common with a lot of monitors for people with your eye for quality. Just gonna have to ride it out.
Hey folks, quick SSD (Crucial M4) support question - I've found threads on their tech forums with similar issues but none of the proposed solutions have worked for me.
Turned on my PC (built from this great thread just over a year ago) last night, Windows logo popped up but then screen faded down and monitor reported no signal from the PC. Repeated reboots produced the same result. The boot priority list in the BIOS doesn't show my SSD (which has my Windows install), but strangely bringing up a separate list of Boot Devices does show it. Manually selecting it from this list produces the same result (begins to start Windows and then dies).
The PC doesn't actually crash or shutdown, so I think the SSD is powering off for whatever reason. I've tried other unused power plugs that I have in the case to no avail. I've also tried various suggested ways of power-cycling the SSD by leaving the PC idle on the BIOS screen for 20+ minutes with only power to the SSD (no SATA data cable) but this hasn't worked either.
Has anyone here encountered a similar issue with these drives?
I had this issue with my M4 to the point where I had to reformat it and re-install Windows. I have since updated the firmware, but I've still had minor issues with it not booting here and there.
This may not be the best place to ask but, I am looking to "build a pc" and i'm pretty privy to sites that allow you to custom build and they assemble them (looking at origin). In this day and age, is it still significantly cheaper to build your own pc. Another (dumb) question, do you ever feel overwhelmed by the amount of options? I'd really like to get a powerful, top of the line kind of computer with all the newest specs, but when I look at the price tag it makes me wonder. Thanks for reading, lately I felt like it's time to jump out of the shitty laptop category and get a rig that won't be outdated the day after I get it.
Use the "Great" build in the OP. That's exactly what you are looking for.
Putting it together is easy, and there are videos and guides linked in the OP.
Installing Windows is easy, there's a guide for that in the OP. The link for cheap keys is www.reddit.com/r/softwareswap.
Sounds like you have high standards (a good thing!), and this is fairly common with a lot of monitors for people with your eye for quality. Just gonna have to ride it out.
This may not be the best place to ask but, I am looking to "build a pc" and i'm pretty privy to sites that allow you to custom build and they assemble them (looking at origin). In this day and age, is it still significantly cheaper to build your own pc. Another (dumb) question, do you ever feel overwhelmed by the amount of options? I'd really like to get a powerful, top of the line kind of computer with all the newest specs, but when I look at the price tag it makes me wonder. Thanks for reading, lately I felt like it's time to jump out of the shitty laptop category and get a rig that won't be outdated the day after I get it.
Sounds like you have high standards (a good thing!), and this is fairly common with a lot of monitors for people with your eye for quality. Just gonna have to ride it out.
The only thing I don't like about the RMA process is the big effing box they send the thing in. It's a pain to deal with but I will keep on them until I get one with as few problems as possible. I am not into spending $250+ on something for it to have noticeable defects.
This may not be the best place to ask but, I am looking to "build a pc" and i'm pretty privy to sites that allow you to custom build and they assemble them (looking at origin). In this day and age, is it still significantly cheaper to build your own pc. Another (dumb) question, do you ever feel overwhelmed by the amount of options? I'd really like to get a powerful, top of the line kind of computer with all the newest specs, but when I look at the price tag it makes me wonder. Thanks for reading, lately I felt like it's time to jump out of the shitty laptop category and get a rig that won't be outdated the day after I get it.
If you know what you want (check the builds in the OP for good components), and maybe find a supplier having a sale,then you can buy rebuilt without a huge jump in cost Vs self-build. I bought a prodigy with 7950, SSD+HDD and 3570 from overclockers for almost the price it would have cost me to buy the parts.
I have an asrock z77m. I'm building a gaming pc as a present for my sister. What's the best cpu and gpu option that's not super expensive. (circa 300$ for both).
Upgrade to the 780 Ti, imo, best card for pure performance we'll be seeing for a long time. If you can swing it at a later date do a SLI setup and bask in the glory. Last PC I built for myself was a SLI-780 Ti with a 3770K@4.8GHz, and 32GB DDR3 G.Skill RAM @2600. Is probably my fastest PC give or take on pure in-game performance power, and I can Quad-SLI it later if I wish. But my therapist has convinced me to give up this crazy hoarding trait of buying all the new PC shit and spares along with them (still got 4 3770K's and 1 3970X spare, and a shitload of other misc PC shit for spare). I guess, some people ignorantly hoard Steam games and never play 10 mins of most of them, I just build unneeded high-end PC's. Pick your poison I guess.
Anyhow, enough of my drunken backstory, go get the 780 Ti (ACX fans, EVGA mandatory), I went with the SC editions, but doesn't matter really. That's my recommendation, the SLI-580 is getting a bit stagnate for upcoming games like Witcher 3 and whatnot. Just sold off my last one actually for $160 to a friend.
The 780ti is the best card currently for pure performance, but from a price to performance standpoint it's hard to recommend. A non-reference 780 is two hundred dollars cheaper and will still run every game you need it to at or above 60fps. Two 770's in SLI will curbstomp a 780ti for about the same price and you get 4GB's of VRAM out of the deal. The 780ti is great if, (like the poster above) you have money to burn, but if you care about that 200 bucks then save it and get a 780 instead.
I have an asrock z77m. I'm building a gaming pc as a present for my sister. What's the best cpu and gpu option that's not super expensive. (circa 300$ for both).
The AMP edition? It still bests that. Plus you are talking Zotac vs Gigabyte here, brand name and RMA policies alone give the nod to Gigabyte. In addition all of these ghz edition cards are overclocked 20+% right out of the box while still running just as cool as other non-reference cards. Most people probably didn't get a 20% overclock on their 780 regardless of make and this one is guaranteed while still running just as cool and more quiet than other brands. This goes a long way to alleviating the GPU lottery that a lot of overclockers have to deal with. You get a stable and hefty overclock right of the box and, if you want to do more, you can have some confidence in the card given it's premium construction and cooling solution.
It's a very good buy, I only wish they gave more options for VRAM as 3 just isn't enough for me, but it is what it is.
Having so much fun updating my computer. New PSU and HDD are in, so the old stuff is out. So much cleaner with the modular PSU, but wait, whats this!!! The Sata cables that Corsair provides with the PSU are orientated the INCORRECT way for my "bottom of the case" mounted SSD.
Well Samsung wasn't nice enough to provide mounting holes on the top side of the SSD, so PSU surgery it is.
Pry the cover off the SATA connector, slip the cables out of their slots (tape or something to mark which cord was which might be a good idea next time...), then flip the connector and break out the punch down tool. Fits like a glove, but the cutting doesn't work so wire snips are needed to trim the excess down.
Some electrical tape to make sure things stay closed and the surgery is complete. Paper clip + dvd drive (NO WAY in hell was I testing this on my SSD) and hope...
IT WORKED!
Ah yissssssss.
Now to finish the reassembly and start the Windows 7 reinstallation process. Pictures to come at the end of the day (lucky I can claim working on my own system as cross training and do it while I'm being paid )
I currently have a 7970, and while I like it, I have been having an itch to go the green camp so that I can use my big rig to feed my nVidia shield, right now I have a small rig dedicated to it with a GTX 650.
So I found someone willing to buy my 7970 for $400, and I also found a ASUS GTX 770 DirectCU II for $350.
Would this be a good idea, I get to keep $50, get around the same if not better performance(im not sure about this) and can stream games from my big machine.
Now the gotcha is that I do play tons of games in triple screen, and the 770 only has 2GB against the 3GB of the 7970.
Some electrical tape to make sure things stay closed and the surgery is complete. Paper clip + dvd drive (NO WAY in hell was I testing this on my SSD) and hope...
Just a quick question. I have an i7 2600k on a Gigabyte z68 ud7 I believe I have it at 4.5 but it seems I have to have it at 1.35 volts with the oc level 7? I'm pretty new to overclock in and I'm worried the volts are high. Seems to hit 1.4 volts peak while prime 95 is running. Is this OK? Any tips for this mobo?
As long as temps are fine, you're good to go. I might change load line calibration to a "performance" or "extreme" setting, and try dropping the volts a bit in BIOS.
I currently have a 7970, and while I like it, I have been having an itch to go the green camp so that I can use my big rig to feed my nVidia shield, right now I have a small rig dedicated to it with a GTX 650.
So I found someone willing to buy my 7970 for $400, and I also found a ASUS GTX 770 DirectCU II for $350.
Would this be a good idea, I get to keep $50, get around the same if not better performance(im not sure about this) and can stream games from my big machine.
Now the gotcha is that I do play tons of games in triple screen, and the 770 only has 2GB against the 3GB of the 7970.
Depends on what you had your 7970 clocked at. 1000MHz+ and it generally beats out the 770. If your 7970 was lower than that, you'll see an improvement.
But, for triple monitor gaming, the 780 will definitely have improved performance compared to the 770.
I currently have a 7970, and while I like it, I have been having an itch to go the green camp so that I can use my big rig to feed my nVidia shield, right now I have a small rig dedicated to it with a GTX 650.
So I found someone willing to buy my 7970 for $400, and I also found a ASUS GTX 770 DirectCU II for $350.
Would this be a good idea, I get to keep $50, get around the same if not better performance(im not sure about this) and can stream games from my big machine.
Now the gotcha is that I do play tons of games in triple screen, and the 770 only has 2GB against the 3GB of the 7970.
As long as temps are fine, you're good to go. I might change load line calibration to a "performance" or "extreme" setting, and try dropping the volts a bit in BIOS.
Depends on what you had your 7970 clocked at. 1000MHz+ and it generally beats out the 770. If your 7970 was lower than that, you'll see an improvement.
But, for triple monitor gaming, the 780 will definitely have improved performance compared to the 770.
I do have it overclocked to 1.2, so I guess its not a good idea to trade it for a 770 then.
Thanks guys, something tells me I will keep this GPU for a while, in order to get something with a big leap in performance I have to spend almost $500 more.
hey guys, need a bit of help. Want to RAID 0 some drives, but when i tried changing AHCI to RAID, i got a BSOD. did a bit of research, and it seems you cant normally change after installing Windows(in this case, 8.1). Is there any way to change it without having to install windows again?
All finished now sadly, was only a four night break away. I did consume reasonable amounts of various vodkas. I tried to get the bar man to sell me one lemon one he had that tasted class but since it was a home made one i couldn't get him to part with it. Would love to get back, lots more to do.
New PSU making noise already... just hope it is because I don't have it all bolted down and screwed in. Would suck to need to RMA this thing already (well Amazon is quick at least...)
. I'd probably sell it and put it towards a largish SSD.
