That's really weird. I've never heard of someone having to tell WindowsPE to format a drive. Usually WindowsPE locates an unformatted drive and allows you to format it under Advanced. Very unusual.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
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That's really weird. I've never heard of someone having to tell WindowsPE to format a drive. Usually WindowsPE locates an unformatted drive and allows you to format it under Advanced. Very unusual.
Well that's interesting and annoying. My Asus P8Z77-I decided that I needed to have a 4.5GHz overclock on my CPU without me actually telling it to do that for me. Was causing network instability for some reason. More tweaking needed.
Where you using CPU-Z to check your CPU speed? I have a stock I7-4770 and according to CPU-Z I am getting 3.8+ GHZ cpu speed.
Sir Abacus
Member
Just finished a build with a Fractal Node 304. Pretty ingenious case. Very nice to work with. Highly recommended.
Nah. Was in the ASUs turbo program. Randomly looked at the auto overclock screen while checking my temps and it had boosted me. Did that a lot with my other proc too just thought I had properly killed the settings.
VP450 unless it has Dell power pin layout (non standard)
A firmware update should not affect your data. But it can so be safe and have a backup just in case.
840 or M500
Is the 4K write performance I'm seeing on my old SSD enough to cause noticeable slowdowns? I've been noticing some lately and in the process of diagnosing it, I realized that the 4K writes were really abysmal. This is a 64gb Crucial M4. I've got a new 240gb SSD that blows this 4k performance away (by like 10x to 20x) that I could make my new C drive if need be. It also blows away the Seq and 512k write numbers, but I think those are in line with what they should be...or closer to it anyway.
Those are good for 4K on that drive.Is the 4K write performance I'm seeing on my old SSD enough to cause noticeable slowdowns? I've been noticing some lately and in the process of diagnosing it, I realized that the 4K writes were really abysmal. This is a 64gb Crucial M4. I've got a new 240gb SSD that blows this 4k performance away (by like 10x to 20x) that I could make my new C drive if need be. It also blows away the Seq and 512k write numbers, but I think those are in line with what they should be...or closer to it anyway.
You should clone up anyway though.
Yeah I think I'm going to do that and transfer this SSD over to a relatives laptop if you think it's in working order.
Thanks.
What's the best $130 LED monitor someone can buy? I picked a couple from Newegg, but before I buy one I want to find the best one for that price.
ASUS VE228H
BenQ GW2255
ASUS VE228H
BenQ GW2255
Anyone that has a water cooled CPU that can shed some input?
I'm buying an Intel I-5 3570k and I'm looking at the Corsair H60 and H80i CPU water coolers. Are these pretty good? Is there much of a difference between the two? I was leaning towards the H80i just because the retail price for it is higher, but its on sale for roughly the same as the H60.
I'm buying an Intel I-5 3570k and I'm looking at the Corsair H60 and H80i CPU water coolers. Are these pretty good? Is there much of a difference between the two? I was leaning towards the H80i just because the retail price for it is higher, but its on sale for roughly the same as the H60.
idunnolol monitors are hard
Depends which of the like 3 models the H60 is. I'd just go air unless you like the look of it. Cheaper, nearly as good, more reliable, can be quieter.
The H80i is thicker and should have better performance, but the H60 might be a newer revision since Corsair makes so many SKUs. Neither are worth $80, closer to $55 would be better.
It's also hard to help someone. I understand.
I can vouch than BenQ monitors are great. I've had mine for 5 years now and it still works.
Really? That's disappointing. I've been doing air since my first PC and was looking to finally make the leap to water, at least with the CPU. I was hoping for quieter, better temp, and more reliable system. Kind of bums me out to hear that air is still better lol.
longdi
Banned
dont worry, get coolermaster nepton 140xl, performs as good as h100 but only uses a single thick 140mm radiator with 2 140mm fans. its a coolermaster own design, not another asetek rebrand, so you get a very easy all metal mounting, all thumbscrews, thicker tubes, bigger pump and relatively better noise to cooling ratio.
its only $99...but is also a more complete package.
Awesome, I'll have to check that out. Thanks!
I'm serious here. A lot about monitors is subjective and a lot of it might not be noticeable to many users, manufacturer details about input delay, GTG, contrast, 2ms/5ms are not even close to comparable. It's much harder to find reliable information (even more so info that matters to most end users) then all the other types of hardware imo.
Monitors is where I go seek help from others because I pick one every 2 or 3 years.
so idunnolol
@above: Brands are good, but when you hit $130 panels it's down to specific models, it's like people recommending low end Corsair PSU as great units, gotta be careful.
Part of it is the value side of water is bad. In reality it may let you clock 0.1 or 0.2Ghz higher depending on how aggressive you are about tuning your overclock and what voltage limit you may reach. Is that worth another $40-60? I don't think so. They look nice though and are surprisingly light!
I felt my OC was pretty fine tuned and was disappointed going from a TRUE->TPC812->Kraken X60 (Best on the market) that my temps did not change much and my OC only went up by 0.1Ghz at a sane 24/7 voltage on a delidded CPU. Fan noise alone is better than pump + lower fan speed imo too. YMMV
Just make sure the case he puts it in can fit it despite the 120mm compatibility. The rad is larger than others. Despite the Corsairs being more expensive than the other AIO on the market (NZXT, CM, etc.) I do prefer them when price is not involved.
I discovered an interesting solution to a problem I've been having for the past few days. I just moved to the upstate New York area and have been dealing with excessive static shock build-up. Since my PC and everything connected are grounded, I immediately discharge my static electricity to anything I touch, namely my headphones. While the shocks are sometimes bothersome if I move around too much, it shouldn't cause any real harm since everything is grounded. However, my condenser mic (Blue Snowball) seems to stop working when I discharge, forcing me to unplug the USB cable and plug it back in. Grounding myself would be the ideal solution but I couldn't find a way to adequately do it for everyday use without becoming bothersome. Interestingly, I thought of using a ferrite core and it appears to have worked. My mic no longer stops working when I discharge, I tested it with the ferrite core off and on a few more times to be certain. I wasn't aware ferrite cores could be used in this type of application.
Hi guys. Everything but one or two items for my build is here now. Gonna start next Saturday. I cannot wait. Just had a look in my case and there are two extra standoffs installed than I actually need. Should these be removed before I start? While the rest are moulded on to the case these seem to be screwed on (extremely tightly) so a pair of pliers might do the trick.
Remove them.
anchorman128
Member
So... I finished building my first PC after like 4 hours of tinkering! Yay for me and thank you all!
Everything seems to work fine, except for the fact that... I can't install Windows.
Basically when I have to pick which drive to install, it doesn't matter what I choose, it always answers with a "setup was unable to create a new system partition".
This error already occurred to me once when I replaced the HDD on my MacBook, but I totally forgot what I did.
Anyway, searching around I tried several workarounds.
- clean/format/active via diskpart
- unplugging the HDD, leaving the SSD as the only drive connected
- removing the USB Windows stick and putting it back (weird but seems to work for someone)
Nothing works.
As it's 5 AM here, I'm kinda out of ideas so I'm sorry to come back to you as my last hope...
What the heck am I missing here??
(AsRock Z87 Pro3, SanDisk 128GB, Win7 Ultimate)
Did you make sure to format the hard drive to NTSF before you tried to install windows correct? If not it may be seeing the drive as unallocated memory and therefore not correctly installing the OS. If not, that's pretty much the only thing I could think of. If it is still acting up I would just return/RMA immediately
Interceptor
Banned
Hi guys. I am playing witcher 2 and dark souls currently and the framerate jumps between 45 and 60 (vsync on). Would you suggest locking the framerate at, lets say 40, or would it make no difference? If yes, how could I do it in the witcher? CCC or radeon pro maybe?
My rig:
PhenomII X4 965 BE
Powercolor R9 270X OC
8 gigs of ram @ 1333
My rig:
PhenomII X4 965 BE
Powercolor R9 270X OC
8 gigs of ram @ 1333
In a SFF build, a compact water cooler can save your sanity.
I would like options to slow down my h60 radiator fan. I don't have a free bay for a separate fan controller and it seems to ignore anything less than 35% speed - is there something I can attach in line with the PWM cable somehow? I'd like it to drop below 1000rpm at idle, it's a little 'thrummy' at the moment
What do you mean? Are games hitching?
BlitzEngineer
Member
Hey all. Prompted by a realization that my current CPU is not nearly up to Dolphin emulation, I'm looking to upgrade my CPU/MOBO. After looking around for awhile I decided on a combo suggested in the OP:
CPU
i7 4770K 4C/8T
MOBO
Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H
Anyway I have two questions. First, I have a sort of old Zalman Heatsink, not exactly sure which model but it looks similar to this, except it's green LED and it's about 4 or 5 years old. Any reason I should replace it or will it be fine for overclocking with a cleaning and new thermal paste? Also it's attached right now to an AM3 socket, I'm not sure how heatsink brackets work between different sockets but do you think this will work fine on an LGA1150 socket?
I'm also wondering if there is anyone here familiar with Dolphin that can tell me if the CPU is good enough? I've read that Dolphin is primarily limited by single-core speeds and plan to overclock to somewhere over 4GHz. The game that's spurring my interest is Metroid Prime Trilogy, I found a copy I own that I'd forgotten I bought and would love to play these games at 1080p and hopefully 60fps. Would love to hear anyone's experiences regarding this specific application.
CPU
i7 4770K 4C/8T
MOBO
Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H
Anyway I have two questions. First, I have a sort of old Zalman Heatsink, not exactly sure which model but it looks similar to this, except it's green LED and it's about 4 or 5 years old. Any reason I should replace it or will it be fine for overclocking with a cleaning and new thermal paste? Also it's attached right now to an AM3 socket, I'm not sure how heatsink brackets work between different sockets but do you think this will work fine on an LGA1150 socket?
I'm also wondering if there is anyone here familiar with Dolphin that can tell me if the CPU is good enough? I've read that Dolphin is primarily limited by single-core speeds and plan to overclock to somewhere over 4GHz. The game that's spurring my interest is Metroid Prime Trilogy, I found a copy I own that I'd forgotten I bought and would love to play these games at 1080p and hopefully 60fps. Would love to hear anyone's experiences regarding this specific application.
Nope, everything worked (and works) fine with the SSD.
I mounted it in an external USB case and plugged to my other computer and it recognizes it immediately. There I formatted it and everything else. But still nothing.
I solved everything ditching Win 7 in favor of Win 8.1.
Basically, the problem was (probably, but it seems to happen to lots of people) the installation via USB. I already had the same problem trying to USB install on Bootcamp the very same Win 7, and honestly I can't remember how the hell I solved it at the time, but if I have to bet on something, I'd say I tried to install via DVD. Sadly, at the moment I don't have any optical drive around, so this time it wasn't a viable option, and I just didn't want to keep formatting the SSD until something finally happened, so what the hell, I tried Win 8.1 and it worked.
Hullo To U
Banned
Has anyone had experience with Corsair and claiming warranty on a product?
The back light of the V key on my K95 just stopped working. It's just over a month old and has only been used for gaming.. so the V key has barely been used.
The back light of the V key on my K95 just stopped working. It's just over a month old and has only been used for gaming.. so the V key has barely been used.
You'll need to replace it. Get a hyper 212. Performs better and quieter.
Dio Brando
Banned
so, my two 1Tb drives have a S.M.A.R.T caution warning. should i be scared?'
here the CrystalDiskInfo screenshots of both drives:
here the CrystalDiskInfo screenshots of both drives:
Possibly. looks like some bad sectors in there. Try a different program for interpreting SMART data, such as HDSentinel and see if it also reports problems. If it does there's a possibility you may need to replace your drives soon.
If it's just emulation and gaming an i5 4670K would do you. The UD3H would also save you some cash unless the UD4H is on offer, or you want the red colour scheme.
I'd recommend a new cooler too. Hyper 212 is cheap and great.
Dio Brando
Banned
oh boy:
oh boy:
That drive is toast. Time to RMA.
Got my GTX 770 SLi up and running and installed my new Corsair AX860i into my system. Ran Prime95 for 12 hours along with Heaven and everything is rock stable with my i5 3570K @ 4.00GHZ with temps peaking at 67 after 12 hours.
Quick tip for anybody out there building a new system for the first time. Get a decent size case. I have a Corsair Carbride R300 and it is cramped trying to do SLi and get decent cable management.
Dio Brando
Banned
No RMA here in Brazil(at least not like on other countries), and i already had this hdd for 3-5 years.
I'm going to another state next week, and I'll probably buy 2 2tb drives. Is a seagate Barracuda bad?
longdi
Banned
Then you should try the Swiftech H220. The pump alone weighs more than most asetek AIO! Very hefty and well built, comes with silent fans and really good TIM.
I know many reviews put it at around H110 level in cooling, but in my own experience, it keeps my OC 23W 3930K down really well and very silent. Most AIO reviews dont really push beyond 200W, thats where the larger tubing, powerful pump and copper rad of H220 will shine!
ColonelSkills
Member
I haven't done a CPU OC in a gazillion years. Just want to confirm stuff.
I realize Haswell runs hot.
I have a 4770K, and an Evo 212. Under prime95, with a mild OC (4.2), peak temps under full stress is 78-82 C.
Core voltage set at is 1.110
I'm reading conflicting reports that this is in the normal range and there's nothing to worry about, but also that it should be closer to 70.
Just getting a second opinion here if this is normal and/or if I should adjust voltages somewhere else to bring this more into line.
I realize Haswell runs hot.
I have a 4770K, and an Evo 212. Under prime95, with a mild OC (4.2), peak temps under full stress is 78-82 C.
Core voltage set at is 1.110
I'm reading conflicting reports that this is in the normal range and there's nothing to worry about, but also that it should be closer to 70.
Just getting a second opinion here if this is normal and/or if I should adjust voltages somewhere else to bring this more into line.
ColonelSkills
Member
I will let it run for several more hours.
At what point should I worry? 90?
At what point should I worry? 90?
I'm not sure how good Prime95 is for temperatures, and I think as more apps use AVX2 that Haswell CPUs are going to overheat. Not just OCs, but stock and mobile. Maybe this is why Intel is going back to the good thermal paste for Haswell-E.
If you have a Haswell CPU, use the latest prime 95 and run small FFTs. It will jump 15-20C higher than it would otherwise. So I have had good OCs that stay under 75C forever with large FFTs and bam as soon as small FFTs run it jumps to 90+C. Really modest OCs too with a good cooler.
Yes. Reduced lifespan and thermal throttling which defeats the point of OCing.
A good cooler and OC with 4000 series should stay below 75C at 100% stress tests, except when AVX2 is really hammered. 90C is common there.
Intel really cheapened their thermal solution. At work I tinkered with a PC I built in 2011, and with the same cooler and OC settings as an i7 4770K it peaks at about 50C. Cooler than most OEMs run at stock by about 20C.
If you have a Haswell CPU, use the latest prime 95 and run small FFTs. It will jump 15-20C higher than it would otherwise. So I have had good OCs that stay under 75C forever with large FFTs and bam as soon as small FFTs run it jumps to 90+C. Really modest OCs too with a good cooler.
Yes. Reduced lifespan and thermal throttling which defeats the point of OCing.
A good cooler and OC with 4000 series should stay below 75C at 100% stress tests, except when AVX2 is really hammered. 90C is common there.
Intel really cheapened their thermal solution. At work I tinkered with a PC I built in 2011, and with the same cooler and OC settings as an i7 4770K it peaks at about 50C. Cooler than most OEMs run at stock by about 20C.
ColonelSkills
Member
Interesting. This is under small FFTs, I wasn't aware that would change the sort of stress test that resulted in that much of a temp jump.
If up to 90 is common under small FFTs then I'll consider myself happy if I'm farting around at 80.
Thanks for the additional info.
adamantypants
Member
This thread is kind of terrible for monitor recommendations. More than a few times people have asked with no reply. I generally just go to tech websites for monitor reviews. I think it's really dependent on what you like and how picky you are.
For example I picked up a Dell LED IPS monitor, read reviews and decided to take the plunge. Reviews from people on Newegg indicated that the screen was glossy and there's some light bleed. Both of those don't bother me so I guess I don't have any complaints.
Really if you're not picky, just go with a trusted brand to make sure the monitor doesn't die on you. And if you're like me, pick one up locally so if there's any issue you can always return. I personally picked mine up at Best Buy. They price match Newegg and Amazon and offer a (paid) warranty to replace any broken items. I always like going to stores to look at monitors. Sounds damn near impossible to shop for a monitor online.
And I don't recall exactly how to tell Prime95 to do that. I think under bench there's a few options like Torture Test, Stress Tests. Try each of them, you'll see it immediately spike up with the one I'm talking about.
If you have a 4000 series. Earlier versions do not have AVX2.
I believe Skylake will do AVX with 512-bits. So Intel is going to need to stop being so cheap with their thermal design or desktops from Dell will die with ordinary stock compute.
Yeah, monitors are hard to recommend. Not only do you have display specs to worry about, but anyone serious with a multi-monitor setup is going to want a specific industrial design. Like can it pivot and twist. Does it have display port multi-stream. Etc. And they change so fast. It's like trying to buy clothes on Amazon. By the time there are reviews, it's discontinued.
If you have a 4000 series. Earlier versions do not have AVX2.
I believe Skylake will do AVX with 512-bits. So Intel is going to need to stop being so cheap with their thermal design or desktops from Dell will die with ordinary stock compute.
Yeah, monitors are hard to recommend. Not only do you have display specs to worry about, but anyone serious with a multi-monitor setup is going to want a specific industrial design. Like can it pivot and twist. Does it have display port multi-stream. Etc. And they change so fast. It's like trying to buy clothes on Amazon. By the time there are reviews, it's discontinued.
ColonelSkills
Member
Yeah, found it in the small FFTs stuff. Large FFTs keeps it at 65 C or lower.
Much obliged, sir. I have a better understanding of it all now. Thanks.
Could anyone provide a good resource for learning about AMD cards? I'm making a strictly AMD Gaming HTPC and Steambox. I've used Nvidia cards in all my prior builds and haven't any idea of the performance differences between the HD 5000, 6000, 7000 and the R7, R8, or R9 series.
Basic guide.
First number - series/year made basically. 5 was 4 years ago, R is current, the 7-9 are the next number below
Second number - class. 7 is entry level, 8 is gaming, 9 is enthusiast. These let you know where in the hierarchy the card sits. Generally any 8 will be better than any 7 and any 9 will be better than any 8 - GENERALLY. Check benches to ensure. Do not buy anything less than a x7xx
Third number lets you know where in its current level it sits. 50 and 70 are gaming levels. 90 often but doesn't always refer to a dual gpu card.
The 5000 and 6000 series are very close in performance. If you are on a budget/need a small card the 7790 can be passable in an htpc. The x850 is usually the price to performance winner.
All amd cards are overpriced right now because of the coin boom
clem84
Gold Member
Gotta problem with a brand new Blu-ray burner I've purchased here. I had a pretty sizable amount of data I needed to backup to bring to a new PC. Around 150GB. Bought a Blu-ray burner, ASUS bw-16d1ht, and made 6 data discs using Verbatim BD-R LTH. When I burned them everything seemed fine. Then I got rid of the old PC. I built the new one and I brought over the Blu-ray burner I had just purchased from the old PC.
When I'm trying to read the data discs I made it doesn't work. I select all the files then tell Windows7 to copy them. When it starts it seems to be able to read them but then it always stops midway and it can't read the files anymore. I can't bring over ANY files, small or big. Those data discs were made by the same drive. How could it not be able to read them? Are BD-R LTH supposed to be a problematic format? I googled for this but couldn't find anything.
Oh and I also tried the copy command of my PS3 but it also fails halfway. It seems to be the discs. The reviews on newegg for Verbatim BDR LTH are kinda bad. I'm wondering if there's anything else I can try to retrieve the data.
When I'm trying to read the data discs I made it doesn't work. I select all the files then tell Windows7 to copy them. When it starts it seems to be able to read them but then it always stops midway and it can't read the files anymore. I can't bring over ANY files, small or big. Those data discs were made by the same drive. How could it not be able to read them? Are BD-R LTH supposed to be a problematic format? I googled for this but couldn't find anything.
Oh and I also tried the copy command of my PS3 but it also fails halfway. It seems to be the discs. The reviews on newegg for Verbatim BDR LTH are kinda bad. I'm wondering if there's anything else I can try to retrieve the data.
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