SuperSonic1305
Member
At what point should I stop upgrading GPU and start worrying about CPU? I have an i7 930. Would it even be worth getting a modern card?
-
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Which upgrades would you recommend?
Bottlenecks aren't an either/or thing and exist on all parts for various reasons. Some games will have absolutely zero gain if you were to upgrade to a modern $1000 CPU from what you are currently using. Some games would benefit drastically.
However, think of it in terms of the CPU controls the dips, and the GPU creates the average. A new GPU will increase performance, but your CPU (if <4.0GHz) will have some more significant dips than something modern.
The types of games that would benefit from a new, high clocked Intel chip would be UE3 engine games, Source games, RTS/Strategy, multiplayer games, and MMOs. Games that probably don't care quite as much would be action/adventure, RPG, and most single player games.
It's a dead socket, so there isn't much to do on the CPU/motherboard end. I'd need a UK GAFer to confirm this, but buying a new PSU seems like it would drastically reduce the value of the PC, as it'd be ~680 instead of 600.
fluffydelusions
Member
I took it out but it's certainly possible to do while in (I probably should have just done it that way tbh) but you'd have to plug in the CPU fans before installing the heatsink... it's huge! no room to get your hands in to plug them in after it's installed.
I'm having to send mine back to Ebuyer this weekWouldn't boot in mine or my friends PC
Have you got enough power? Most recent drivers?
I assume you're talking about the 970. I just downloaded the drivers from Nvidia today, and I have a 550w power supply, which I think should be more than enough.
Yeah, I was actually taking that as more evidence that it's a motherboard problem, but it gives me some hope that I could use some sort of external audio or maybe a soundcard as a workaround.
Cool, thanks. I'll see if I can manage with the cables, otherwise, I'll have to take it out.
fluffydelusions
Member
I also have a 550w PSU and a 970. No problems here.
J
Jotamide
Unconfirmed Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($248.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($87.87 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97-HD3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($119.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.22 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Sandisk Solid State Drive 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.95 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Toshiba Product SeriesT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.79 @ DirectCanada)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX Video Card ($369.99 @ Memory Express)
Case: Fractal Design Core 3500 ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.98 @ NCIX)
Total: $1125.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-29 20:27 EDT-0400
What's the veredict on manirelli's $1000 Gaming Build posted a couple of days ago? I was thinking on going with this but maybe upgrade the processor to a Core i7-4790, 3.60GHz and throw a cheap optical drive there as well.
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($248.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($87.87 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97-HD3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($119.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.22 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Sandisk Solid State Drive 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.95 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series
T01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.79 @ DirectCanada) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX Video Card ($369.99 @ Memory Express)
Case: Fractal Design Core 3500 ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.98 @ NCIX)
Total: $1125.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-29 20:27 EDT-0400
What's the veredict on manirelli's $1000 Gaming Build posted a couple of days ago? I was thinking on going with this but maybe upgrade the processor to a Core i7-4790, 3.60GHz and throw a cheap optical drive there as well.
It's not an issue as much as a feature that may not be perfect for everyone immediately. However, when set up properly I like it better than your typical NIC. For instance, I can play a game and download something with no download limit and not experience an increase in ping, because I've prioritized all games. Yes, initially downloads had priority over firefox, but a simple change in a drop down menu solved that permanently.
UnObtainium17
Member
Currently assembling my rig. Jesus that creaking sound you hear when you latch that cpu into that thing is like the sound of scratching a blackboard with fingernails. I hate how i need to put that much force into it. I thought im gonna crack my mobo.
Great, so more issues. I tried to update the BIOS using the BIOS updater on the manufacturer website, and when my computer restarted, all I'm getting is
I can go into the BIOS and see my SSD where Windows is installed and I still end up at the same screen...
I guess next step is to reinstall Windows? Will that format all my stuff?
Code:
Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot Device and press a keyI can go into the BIOS and see my SSD where Windows is installed and I still end up at the same screen...
I guess next step is to reinstall Windows? Will that format all my stuff?
After a bios update, everything is usually set to default. Thus, if you change your sata option from AHCI to raid to eide and/or etc, you need to change it back. Also, make sure the SSD is the 1st boot option.
You shouldn't need to reinstall windows.
Xander51
Member
Ah right of course, I see that now.
Your power supply should be fine as long as it has a decent efficiency rating.crooked spin
Member
Thanks for the suggestions. I have 2x8 RAM so I swapped each in and out and tried to boot -- no luck.
This problem is incredibly frustrating because it seems like the problem could be ANY of my components (though intuitively I feel like the PSU or mobo may be the culprit). I'm at a point where I just want to take it to someone who can diagnose it for me -- any recommendations for tech support in the NYC area? MicroCenter?
(my original post if anyone else wants to chime in
Felix Lighter
Member
First post with my new PC! So far so good. Posted on the first try. The H220X wasn't too bad to install. Windows installed. drivers installed.
xBladeM6x
Member
Is the H220X considered one of the better water coolers? Also, is it closed loop, or do you maintain it?
Thanks for the suggestions. I have 2x8 RAM so I swapped each in and out and tried to boot -- no luck.
This problem is incredibly frustrating because it seems like the problem could be ANY of my components (though intuitively I feel like the PSU or mobo may be the culprit). I'm at a point where I just want to take it to someone who can diagnose it for me -- any recommendations for tech support in the NYC area? MicroCenter?
(my original post if anyone else wants to chime in
I assume you are not overclocking, etc. If you've tested RAM, the next likely culprit is the PSU. Before that though - do you have onboard graphics? If so, I'd try removing your GPU to see if you can boot. Unhook all drives, save for your main one. Should be just CPU, one stick of RAM and your motherboard. If you don't have onboard grahpics, try CPU, your GPU, one stick of RAM and your motherboard. If that doesn't work, try another GPU or booting without a GPU - you should at least hear the beep code for missing GPU. Might be a defective GPU.
Also, go down the list in the first post in this thread and check to make sure these issues aren't present.
It's been about 6 years since I built my last PC and it's time I got a new one. I've been picking parts based on the suggestions in this thread but I thought I'd post this here to see if anyone spots any dumb mistake I made. I understand that I'll need to remove the hard drive cage in the R4 to make room for the 980, is that correct? So that means I have two spots for SSD drives on the case and two spots for other hard drives/optical drive in the top drive bay? I'm cool with spending more money but from what I'm reading the new x99 chips aren't worth it yet but if I stick with x79 I'll never be able to upgrade.
[PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/PB93WZ) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/PB93WZ/by_merchant/)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i74790k) | $338.78 @ SuperBiiz
**CPU Cooler** | [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2) | $28.49 @ OutletPC
**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gaz97xud3h) | $135.99 @ NCIX US
**Memory** | [Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Black 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/patriot-memory-pvl332g186c0qk) | $349.99 @ Newegg
**Storage** | [Samsung 840 EVO 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7te1t0bw) | $417.99 @ Amazon
**Video Card** | [EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-04gp42983kr) | $569.99 @ Amazon
**Case** | [Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr4bl) | $88.99 @ NCIX US
**Power Supply** | [Cooler Master V850 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-power-supply-rs850afbag1us) | $159.99 @ Newegg
**Optical Drive** | [Asus BW-16D1HT Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-optical-drive-bw16d1ht) | $69.99 @ Newegg
| | **Total**
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $2160.20
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-29 21:38 EDT-0400 |
[PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/PB93WZ) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/PB93WZ/by_merchant/)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i74790k) | $338.78 @ SuperBiiz
**CPU Cooler** | [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2) | $28.49 @ OutletPC
**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gaz97xud3h) | $135.99 @ NCIX US
**Memory** | [Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Black 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/patriot-memory-pvl332g186c0qk) | $349.99 @ Newegg
**Storage** | [Samsung 840 EVO 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7te1t0bw) | $417.99 @ Amazon
**Video Card** | [EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-04gp42983kr) | $569.99 @ Amazon
**Case** | [Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr4bl) | $88.99 @ NCIX US
**Power Supply** | [Cooler Master V850 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-power-supply-rs850afbag1us) | $159.99 @ Newegg
**Optical Drive** | [Asus BW-16D1HT Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-optical-drive-bw16d1ht) | $69.99 @ Newegg
| | **Total**
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $2160.20
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-29 21:38 EDT-0400 |
Mango Positive
Member
Today was a good day. My Qnix 27" 1440p monitor arrived today (it left South Korea on Friday, arrived in Atlanta today), as did my Zotec GTX 980. There's a bit of backlight bleed, but it looks SO good 98% of the time that i can overlook it. It overclocked to 120 htz without issue. Crysis 3 runs better than it did on my 900p monitor with the GTX 680.
You guys think I could Sli 780's on a EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750B?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438007
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438007
matrixman92
Member
Zotac just told me that it can take up to 30 days to test my video card and decide if it actually has a problem or not....I hate this company so damn much
I wouldn't
The hard drive cage in the R4 actually has two parts, and you should be OK just removing the upper part. That still leaves slots for three drives in the lower part.
RadioactiveLobster
Member
What case are you using? I am thinking of the H220-X or one of the Corsair AIOs but am still deciding.
Why not? I want to see if it will blow up. Under full load it should only use around 620W.
adamantypants
Member
I'm using a Fractal Define R4 case with a Phanteks CPU cooler and a few Corsair quiet fans. I can still hear the fans but only if there's absolutely nothing else on around it. It's maybe not completely silent but the moment the TV is on at ANY volume I can't hear it anymore. In fact, most other ambient noise drowns it out.
If you don't want to build quiet though, then I would think a super long HDMI cable with wireless kb/m would be your route. What I did though for my living room setup is since my gaming PC is in a different room, I tried using a 5 year old dual core laptop for Steam in-home streaming for gaming and it actually worked really well. Might not be ideal for most but it was a simple solution for me.
I think your intuition is right. Check your mobo for capacitor swell and try the paperclip test on your PSU.Thanks for the suggestions. I have 2x8 RAM so I swapped each in and out and tried to boot -- no luck.
This problem is incredibly frustrating because it seems like the problem could be ANY of my components (though intuitively I feel like the PSU or mobo may be the culprit). I'm at a point where I just want to take it to someone who can diagnose it for me -- any recommendations for tech support in the NYC area? MicroCenter?
(my original post if anyone else wants to chime in
If you're not overclocked on your CPU or have a ton of things connected, you'd barely be scraping by. It's probably possible but I really wouldn't recommend it.
Okay, the changes you mentioned didn't work, but I fiddled around a bit and was able to get it working again. Problem is... updating the BIOS didn't fix either the audio issues or the random restarts when playing games.
One interesting thing; I tried playing Skyrim and the same thing happened (computer restarted before end of opening cutscene), but because you can turn your head and the audio is positional, I noticed the people speaking sounded fine when I wasn't facing them, but then when I did, I could barely hear them and the audio sounded off again. This makes me think that it's some sort of software problem where the audio drivers are trying to push some center channel into my headphones and maybe it's not working properly?
Goldenmoney
Member
32 gb is overkill for gaming, I think even 16 is overkill for gaming. If you're doing hardcore video editing, then you probably should consider x99.
I'm guessing you went 850 watts for a possible future sli 980? If not, 550 watts should be enough.
Felix Lighter
Member
Is the H220X considered one of the better water coolers? Also, is it closed loop, or do you maintain it?
It's an all in one kit that is pre-filled and ready to install but it includes quality components that can be expanded on.
The Phanteks Enthoo Pro.
I'm awful at taking pictures and the lighting in here is pretty bad but here's a pic:
The 32gb isn't just for gaming. I use other software that would benefit from it. Yes, the 850 is for another 980.
What do you think of this X99 build? I also included a new monitor.
[PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/dgjtkL) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/dgjtkL/by_merchant/)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80648i75820k) | $384.98 @ OutletPC
**CPU Cooler** | [Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/noctua-cpu-cooler-nhd15) | $93.49 @ Amazon
**Motherboard** | [MSI X99S SLI Plus ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-motherboard-x99ssliplus) | $228.79 @ Newegg
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f42666c15q32grr) | $599.99 @ Newegg
**Storage** | [Samsung 840 EVO 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7te1t0bw) | $417.99 @ Amazon
**Video Card** | [EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-04gp42983kr) | $569.99 @ Amazon
**Case** | [Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr4bl) | $88.99 @ NCIX US
**Power Supply** | [Cooler Master V850 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-power-supply-rs850afbag1us) | $159.99 @ Newegg
**Monitor** | [Samsung U28D590D 60Hz 28.0" Monitor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-monitor-u28d590d) | $599.99 @ Best Buy
| | **Total**
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $3114.20
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-29 23:29 EDT-0400 |
Okay, I was able to record what the audio sounds like using Audacity. Here's an example.
innervision961
Member
Guys I need help!
I have an ASUS Maximus VI Hero board, and I have a stuck/frozen system clock
I have scoured, and found a lot of people on the ROG boards with a similar issue but there is confusion as to whether or not there is an actual fix for this...
This post;
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?36676-Frozen-Time-Clock-in-UEFI-The-Fix
Offers some help, but I'm a super PC noob and upgrading/flashing my bios is greek to me and sounds VERY dangerous
How do I do these things and has anyone heard of a fix to this problem?
I have an ASUS Maximus VI Hero board, and I have a stuck/frozen system clock
I have scoured, and found a lot of people on the ROG boards with a similar issue but there is confusion as to whether or not there is an actual fix for this...
This post;
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?36676-Frozen-Time-Clock-in-UEFI-The-Fix
Offers some help, but I'm a super PC noob and upgrading/flashing my bios is greek to me and sounds VERY dangerous
How do I do these things and has anyone heard of a fix to this problem?
Goldenmoney
Member
Might be worth researching to see if your software benefits from the extra cores. With 5820k and 32 geebos, your rig would definitely be a multitasking beast. One other thing to note is the 840 evo has a known bug that decreases read speeds over time, but I believe a patch is being released for it in mid October.
Don't know too much about monitors but this one is recommended in the OP: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-monitor-pb287q
ok well go ahead lol
just my personal feelings i wouldn't go SLI with anything less than 850w especially if you're overclocking.
that number could probably come down with the 970/980 though
So I have a friend who does video production work professionally, and he is thinking of building his next Gaming/Video Monster of a PC. He is kinda stuck on going for the Titan Z card, I'm telling him he's crazy and don't think it's worth it. He plans on getting the 5960X, but I still think he is nuts for looking at the Titan Z.
Any of you more informed enthusiasts have any input, is there some really good evidence that the Z is worth it's hefty price tag. He also plans on going balls deep into Star Citizen when he gets it built.
Any of you more informed enthusiasts have any input, is there some really good evidence that the Z is worth it's hefty price tag. He also plans on going balls deep into Star Citizen when he gets it built.
I'm assuming he's thinking about the Mercury Playback Engine. A Titan isn't needed for that. Adding CUDA support for any NVIDIA card is easy and I'm 99% sure that the GTX Titans don't have 10, 12, or 30 bit color support. He's basically getting nothing from that purchase.
It's not worth it, 2x980 should be around 20 % faster than the Z for ~$1100.
Have kind of a strange request for a specific keyboard and figured this was the best place to ask. Right now my desk is pretty damn small and the space for mousepad+keyboard is very limited. I've had a small mousepad for awhile but I'm looking to upgrade it to a QcK Heavy and as such I need a smaller keyboard. I want both the standard sized keys with a number pad beside it but either no arrow keys or have them above the rest (height of the keyboard doesn't matter, width is the part that's limited).
Figure this might be too odd of a request but it couldn't hurt to ask. Easier to purchase a keyboard than a new desk.
edit: I could get one without the number pad and buy a usb one. this one from amazon is the best I've found so far. Open to suggestions though.
Figure this might be too odd of a request but it couldn't hurt to ask. Easier to purchase a keyboard than a new desk.
edit: I could get one without the number pad and buy a usb one. this one from amazon is the best I've found so far. Open to suggestions though.
appaws
Banned
Really depends what you have now, and how you define "need." I would say that there are a lot of things you could buy now that would easily do 1080/60 for a long time. And there is always something to wait for around the corner....
....so it all depends on whether your current setup does what you want it to do, and how much money you want to spend.
Didn't get much of a response in my last post...hoping for some guidance from the fine folks here. All prices in Aus dollars. Budget was $1500 though I can go a bit over if required. I'm building for a racing game rig so I want to get Asetto Corsa or Project Cars running at 1080p/120fps on high settings. Need somebody to tell me if it will do the job.
I have two builds now.
PC i5 Build (1080p/120fps@ high settings) no SLI, no overclocking CPU
Pros Cheaper and fine for gaming
Cons Limited upgrade opportunities, next upgrade will be to 6/8 core Haswell-E including changing motherboard, cpu and ram
MB Asus z97m-plus mATX motherboard $139
CPU i5-4590 $214
Ram 8gb 1886hz Ram $80
GPU Gainward GTX 970 $419
Monitor BenQ xl2411z 24" 1080p/144hz $399
SSD Kingston V300 240gb $119
HD Western Digital 1TB $60
Case Cooler Master N200 Mini Tower Case $49
PSU Cooler Master OEM S Series 550W 80+ Silver $64
Cooling Stock
KB/M KB only $10
Windows Student license? $0
Total 1553
PC i7 Build with SLI capabilities
Pros Better Streaming, Video Editing capabilites, more options to upgrade later
Cons More expensive and may not utilise upgrade options
MB Asus Z97A ATX MB $189
CPU i7-4790k $385
Ram 16gb 1886hz Ram $180
GPU EVGA GTX 970 SC $469
Monitor Asus vg248qe 24" 1080p/144Hz $449
SSD Kingston V300 240gb $119
HD Western Digital 1TB $60
Case Coolermaster N400 ATX $59
PSU CoolerMaster GX2 Power Bronze 80+ 750W $119
Cooling CM Hyper Evo 21 $37
KB/M KB Only $10
Windows Student license? $0
Total 2076
Any comments? I'm kinda leaning towards the cheaper option right now. If I upgrade it will be in two or three years and by that time will probably just get a new MB, CPU and Ram and Graphics card... (probably be another thousand bucks! yikes!) I don't feel like I will get that much more performance out of the second system despite spending $500 more. It will mainly be to make it easier to upgrade later, I may as well spend that $500 2 or 3 years down the track.
Also I've only selected the PSU based on the wattage, are there any other things I should look out for? Will it work ok in my system? I haven't had much luck with PSU and had two or three go out on the family computer.
So I got my Corsair Air 540 case replaced and could build the PC. 4770K, be Quiet Dark Pro 2, GTX77, SSD and HDD from my old one and I added a Gigabyte G.1 Sniper Z97 mainboard and a Corsair RM750 PSU. But the PC doesn't boot. I checked everything 4-5 times, the cables are right.
Most of the time the mainboard shows "db" and reboots, some times "15" and nothing is happening, no power on keyboard and nothing on the monitor.
Should I RMA the mainboard? If I would replace it with my old one the PC would definitly work.
Most of the time the mainboard shows "db" and reboots, some times "15" and nothing is happening, no power on keyboard and nothing on the monitor.
Should I RMA the mainboard? If I would replace it with my old one the PC would definitly work.
Kind of a weird question, I need a cheap pc/cheap pc build that can run a plex server. I have the ram and the hard drive already from an old busted laptop, but don't want to spend more than $150 on the rest. I thought Rasberry Pi, but apparently it can't handle the actual server.
The Plex requirements say I need at least:
Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.
The Plex requirements say I need at least:
Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.
Felix Lighter
Member
My CPU sucks. I can't even get it stable at 4.2 Ghz with 1.29v. Blue-screened after 45 min of Prime95. 2 cores peaked at 90C, anyway. I'm done messing with it tonight. I wonder how that CPU I had to ship back to NewEgg was. It doubt it was any worse.
Vigilant Walrus
Member
Keyboards.... TKL is king. It's not that I don't like numpad, but the thing is that my computer desk is also my work desk, and because I have so many papers and other junk on it, a smaller keyboard is much nicer.
I'm at odds at which to go for. I have a Ducky Shine 2 which Blue Switches. Mechnical Keyboards are amazing. It's like taking a shower naked, while non-mechanical keyboards have you been taking showers your entire life with clothes on. The difference is enormous.
Ducky Shine 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQXercgdIgU&list=TLU8gmoWiAm2sSGluani7yacGqJHVXvCrK
WASD Code: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNHYqsZYN_U&list=UUDtH9xTCEPzpR_FJiuZ-hFQ < I love the lack of logo (minimalism, I dont care about these companies logos).
CM Storm Rapid-i: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-KtFzKs3bI
Anybody got any recommendations on any of these?
For me, the main draw is; TKL, lights, mechanical, minimalistic, low/no logo. Other suggestions also welcome!
I'm at odds at which to go for. I have a Ducky Shine 2 which Blue Switches. Mechnical Keyboards are amazing. It's like taking a shower naked, while non-mechanical keyboards have you been taking showers your entire life with clothes on. The difference is enormous.
Ducky Shine 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQXercgdIgU&list=TLU8gmoWiAm2sSGluani7yacGqJHVXvCrK
WASD Code: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNHYqsZYN_U&list=UUDtH9xTCEPzpR_FJiuZ-hFQ < I love the lack of logo (minimalism, I dont care about these companies logos).
CM Storm Rapid-i: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-KtFzKs3bI
Anybody got any recommendations on any of these?
For me, the main draw is; TKL, lights, mechanical, minimalistic, low/no logo. Other suggestions also welcome!
ThoughtsOfSpeaking
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Another weird question. In my cheaper build, im planning to move my Pentium K into the new machine, but use the stock cooler from my new 4690k.
Will that have any advantages in temps over the pentium Ks cooler? Or are they basically the same?
Will that have any advantages in temps over the pentium Ks cooler? Or are they basically the same?
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