What specific ram is it? There are done desktop motherboards that can use laptop ram
The anniversary Pentium actually comes with a better cooler than the i5, it's the same cooler as an i7
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Hey,
So I'm thinking about upgrading my rig as it's been a while. I bought my rig pre built and I'm not that tech savvy.
I'm currently running with:
i3570k 3.4ghz (Although I OC'd it with a one click OC on my motherboard to 4.2)
Hyper 212 Evo CPU cooler
GTX 770 Asus DirectCU OC II 2gb
Asus P8Z77-V LX Motherboard
8GB RAM (I guess they're 1600mhz Kingston ram)
PSU is a Cooler Master 750w
Generic 1TB HDD
I'm thinking about selling off my 770 and getting a 970(don't know which one though) and maybe getting a SSD and installing my Win7 on it.
First of all, would that be a logical upgrade?
Second, do I have to format my normal HD when installing the OS on a SSD or can I just connect the SSD and install it directly on that and choose to boot on it? and the proceed to manually delete the OS from the normal HD?
So I'm thinking about upgrading my rig as it's been a while. I bought my rig pre built and I'm not that tech savvy.
I'm currently running with:
i3570k 3.4ghz (Although I OC'd it with a one click OC on my motherboard to 4.2)
Hyper 212 Evo CPU cooler
GTX 770 Asus DirectCU OC II 2gb
Asus P8Z77-V LX Motherboard
8GB RAM (I guess they're 1600mhz Kingston ram)
PSU is a Cooler Master 750w
Generic 1TB HDD
I'm thinking about selling off my 770 and getting a 970(don't know which one though) and maybe getting a SSD and installing my Win7 on it.
First of all, would that be a logical upgrade?
Second, do I have to format my normal HD when installing the OS on a SSD or can I just connect the SSD and install it directly on that and choose to boot on it? and the proceed to manually delete the OS from the normal HD?
I think we had the Code in the KB recs before I was like 'theres too much shit over $150'
I bet those are all good TBH
i5 build but with an i5 4670K to OC.
I went fomr i5 to i7 for casual streaming/video stuff and it didn't make a big difference in my occasional use. Maybe if you want to push 1080/60 stream but you should be using a capture card for that anyway.
Win XP / Win 7 refurb Dell / HP on eBay for $150 $200.
You want a QuickFire TK
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AOIRCI6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
HEATWELLLLLLLLLLL
Yup, both great upgrades. Everything else is fine.
For the SSD disconnect your HDD, connect SSD, install windows, then boot from SSD (or even remove the HDD from boot options / NTLDR).
Danlord
Member
I'm very happy with my PC setup currently. I don't have my SSD, (previous) HDD and Optical drive installed hence my SATA ports unoccupied but the picture was taken before everything was complete. It's the first time I've done a computer and really focused on cable management, and I am pleased with myself with what I've achieved.
Intel i7 4790K (4GHz), ASUS Maximus Ranger VII, Corsair Hydro H60 2013 model with an Aerocool Dead Silence 120mm fan, 16GB Kingston Hyper Beast DDR3 2133MHz. Crucial MX100 256 GB SSD, XFX XXX 750w PSU packed into a CoolerMaster Force 500 case, which fits everything nicely.
I'm getting a GTX 970 in October or November time so in the meantime I'll be using the onboard GPU, which is sufficient for now as I won't be doing anything GPU-intensive for University and it plays Gamersyde videos perfectly and UT 99 with the i7. I also have my old laptop's HDD in as I haven't backed everything up, so I need to move that to my external HDD and format it for 320GB~ of storage but in the new year I'll upgrade to a 3 TB Hitachi (as recommended by LilJoka)
Question GAF, I've never had a fan controller, are they better than using software-based tools to adjust the fan?
I'm thinking of getting one for the 5.25 bay below my optical drive but I'm unsure if my current use by using AI Suite 3 which'll adjust it by software. Any suggestions on specific ones will be helpful too.
Intel i7 4790K (4GHz), ASUS Maximus Ranger VII, Corsair Hydro H60 2013 model with an Aerocool Dead Silence 120mm fan, 16GB Kingston Hyper Beast DDR3 2133MHz. Crucial MX100 256 GB SSD, XFX XXX 750w PSU packed into a CoolerMaster Force 500 case, which fits everything nicely.
I'm getting a GTX 970 in October or November time so in the meantime I'll be using the onboard GPU, which is sufficient for now as I won't be doing anything GPU-intensive for University and it plays Gamersyde videos perfectly and UT 99 with the i7. I also have my old laptop's HDD in as I haven't backed everything up, so I need to move that to my external HDD and format it for 320GB~ of storage but in the new year I'll upgrade to a 3 TB Hitachi (as recommended by LilJoka)
Question GAF, I've never had a fan controller, are they better than using software-based tools to adjust the fan?
I'm thinking of getting one for the 5.25 bay below my optical drive but I'm unsure if my current use by using AI Suite 3 which'll adjust it by software. Any suggestions on specific ones will be helpful too.
Guys I need help!
I have an ASUS Maximus VI Hero board, and I have a stuck/frozen system clock
I have scoured, and found a lot of people on the ROG boards with a similar issue but there is confusion as to whether or not there is an actual fix for this...
This post;
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?36676-Frozen-Time-Clock-in-UEFI-The-Fix
Offers some help, but I'm a super PC noob and upgrading/flashing my bios is greek to me and sounds VERY dangerous
How do I do these things and has anyone heard of a fix to this problem?
I get a 'page cannot be displayed'. Anyway, I have an ASUS mobo, and flashing the BIOS turned out to be fairly easy. Just put the new BIOS on a USB thumbdrive and use the EZ flash tool in the BIOS. Whether you want to risk it depends on how important you think it is. It seems your board also has USB BIOS flashback, that might make it even easier.
If you want to go really compact, check out the Vortex Poker II, Pure, and Race. They just seem to be out of stock a lot. I recently got the Pure:
It's USB though, not PS/2.
Felix Lighter
Member
I'm a beaten man. I reapplied and reseated the CPU cooler but those 2 hot cores remain hot. I'm now shamefully targeting 4.1 Ghz @ 1.25v. Prime95 has been running for 45 mins, those 2 hot cores peaked at 80C, the others peaked in the low 70s. Fingers crossed I guess.
opticalmace
Member
What are their idle temperatures?
ThoughtsOfSpeaking
Banned
Cool, ill just use that then. Thanks.
Krauser Kat
Member
so. if i am not going to be playing above 1080p anytime soon. Would getting a non reference radeon 280 with 6gb ram pretty much set me up for the foreseeable future.
Current rig is
2500k 4.5ghz
16gb ram
4890 1gb
250gb ssd
4tb hd
Current rig is
2500k 4.5ghz
16gb ram
4890 1gb
250gb ssd
4tb hd
Felix Lighter
Member
25-28C
Emerson
May contain jokes =>
Currently I've got a HD 7850. Getting good enough performance on everything I'm currently playing but each game release from here on looks to be making that less feasible.
I'd like to build a new PC in the next couple months, but I've been told that the most recently released GPUs really aren't that big a step forward and that the 20nm ones will be a larger leap. Like I said previously I just want to get the best performance and longevity I can for my money. The exact price of the GPU isn't really an issue for me although I'm not gonna go for like the 900/1000 dollar shit.
I actually have a really similar build but my mobo is the LK version, PSU only 650w and a Crucial M500 240gb, and I'm considering upgrading from the 2GB 770 to the 4GB 970 based on feedback from performance threads. My concern is that with games asking for 6GB, should I wait for new GPUs or maybe 6GB versions of these new cards? I built my rig to last a couple of years and a year later I'm already considering buying a new GPU =/
Damn, your cpu is a terrible OCer. And, your temps shows me not to even bother going water unless doing a high end custom water setup. I was tempted to get your a AIO water cooler before trying my huge air cooler. Now, no regrets.
Thanks for the advice.
It's an extra 50 bucks to get the 4670k. Is it worth it? I know next to nothing about OC.... Plus $37 for the cm hyper evo 210 heat sink. Is the 550W psu fine for over clocking?
Will the i5 4590 bottleneck me for anything out at the moment?
Well I'm on shitty 4mbps broadband here which I can barely stream 360p YouTube so I don't think I'll be able to upload 1080p/60 stream. But I was thinking to just use shadow play to stream if I ever did. That's fine for streaming to twitch isn't it?
Everything you are experiencing is completely normal. Do not bother replacing TIM or reseating the Heatsink. Your problem is 100% to do with the spread and thickness of the TIM between the Intel Heatspreader and CPU Die. Only solution is delid, so dont waste time on anything else.
Also i bet your chip will clock easy 4.4Ghz with a delid and a temp reduction of ~20c. The FinFET Transistor Intel uses is highly sensitive to temperature.
Asus FanXpert 3 is very good, allows custom curves on each fan header, no point in fan controllers these days.
Inferno313
Banned
Ughhh... I want a 970 so bad.
The scarcity is killing me.
The scarcity is killing me.
Kamakazie!
Member
Anyone know if there will be an issue with the next gen ddr4 cpus and mini itx boards?
Wondering whether to get an matx case to maintain possibility of quad channel memory at the next upgrade.
Wondering whether to get an matx case to maintain possibility of quad channel memory at the next upgrade.
If you're talking about Socket 2011, it's too big for ITX anyway.
The next generational consumer CPUs shouldn't have a problem, but they'll probably be dual channel ram.
Kamakazie!
Member
No specifically the 1150 replacement and whether it will support quad channel and thus put itx at a disadvantage.
Good to hear it will be dual channel though.
Any intel road map for this? Be interesting to see what tthey are planning on 4 or so years time.
The fan controls through your motherboard are all you need.
However, you should swap the fan around on your radiator so it is blowing air through the radiator and out of the case.
CASE|RADIATOR|<-FAN--
Right now, your fan is blowing all of that hot air right at your PSU, and what the PSU doesn't grab is lingering in the case. Furthermore, your fan is grabbing the air expelled by the PSU and circulating that back through.
Felix Lighter
Member
I have no idea if the cooler is the problem or I just have a horrible CPU. It appears to be stable at 4.1 Ghz with 1.25v but going from 4.1 -> 4.2 seems to require some huge jump in voltage if it's even possible with this chip. This is a 5820K by the way. I had hopes to get to achieve 4.4 but I think I just lost the silicon lottery here.
Pick one from OP or G402, petty highly praised or go with one you like already.
OC is very important if you want longevity IMO.
Regular cheap 212 is fine.
Shadowplay can sometimes be better for low bandwidth but you have so much less control vs OBS and you really want at least 2000 up for a half decent 720 stream.
550 is fine for single card
Ah disregard what i said earlier if this is on X99.
What motherboard and what settings have you changed?
What is the Ram speed and primary Timings? Have you adjusted LLC? What is the load Vcore in CPUz? Are you using offset or fixed Vcore?
And a Hyper 212 is not enough for a Hexcore chip. Your probably pushing 150W+ at 4.1Ghz, probably 200W at 4.4Ghz. You need Noctua D14 or similar, or a H100i or similiar.
1.30v load Vcore would be the max i would push in this chip.
Also its normal to see around a 10c difference between hottest and coolest cores.
Felix Lighter
Member
Responses in quote.
These are my current stable settings.
RAM speed and timings are left at auto.
I did change the CPU VDroop Offset Control to 100% to improve stability when I was trying to achieve a higher OC but it didn't help. It bluescreen at lower voltage. More voltage made it more stable but temps went out of control and eventually it would crash anyway.
Current Idle Temps:
Danlord
Member
The fan is pulling the air from the radiator and out of the case, it's a static pressure fan rather than airflow and I have a fan in the front of the case and the side for intake. It's really cool on the inside and I'm already getting good temperatures.
I was looking at a few videos about the debate between push-pull with fans and radiators and from what was told, the performance is negligible between push or pull and push/pull being superior, and a good suggestion to have a single fan as pull first is because of dust and not having to require removing the fan to clean the dust on the radiator fins (if that all makes sense). I am going to get another fan and put it on the radiator for a little better cooling performance.
Good to know, thanks!
anchorman128
Member
I have a couple month old, ASUS GTX 760 2gb DCUII OC model that I am selling for 180 shipped. Figured I'd post in here, thanks guys!
Use OBS to stream, your CPU is plenty strong for streaming and gaming simultaneously. Your internet connection is a major problem though if you want to stream. You need at least 3mbs upload I would say for stable 720p streaming at 2000-2500 bitrate. If your upload is like 1.5mbs then you can probably stream 480p at 1500 bitrate.
Shadowplay is too simplistic and there aren't enough settings to find the right mix of quality and stability, and OBS gives you real time info on frame loss and bitrate during streaming.
Ok everything youve done sounds fine for maximising an overclock, so its bad news in terms of the chip lottery here. You may ned to play with VCCIO and VCCSA voltages, but im not sure how these work on Haswell-E so some reading to do there for you.
The reason why maximum load line calibration caused more instability is because it will cause lower Vcore to be applied to each multiplier except the highest multiplier. That means when the CPU is doing normal tasks it may actually BSOD. And in the end you jack up Vcore to solve that, but have too much load Vcore causing excess temps.
You need to find the balance for the LLC, a low to medium setting works well for most chips, but the worse the chip lottery the worse effect higher LLC has.
If you are running Pime95 Blend you may need a slight bump in Ram Voltage to counteract any Droop. Try 1.22v, again check this since X99 and DDR4 is sensitive stuff.
I beleive VRing is another thing Haswell people played with, so reading to do there too, try the overlock.net forum for lots of info and settings from others.
Wouldn't hurt to upgrade your CPU. What kind of budget are you thinking for the video card?
Danlord
Member
I don't know about your question, but I'd recommend listing your budget and PC use requirements (Specific games a plus or a generalized statement of "Medium-High Settings capable" type) as it can really depend on what games and uses you're wanting from your PC.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
I found it to be more stable at fixed ratio rather than a dynamic one. I can't get mine to be stable over 4.2 however, but left it at 4.1 because of temps (I needed 1.270 V for stable 4.2, and I only have a corsair hydro h60). Also, seems like 4.3 is the ceiling some pro sites are finding for safe OC of the 5820k.
Felix Lighter
Member
Thanks for taking the time to look it over. I'll look into the topics you suggested. I'm sure someone very familiar with all of the BIOS settings could squeeze a little more out of it with fine tuning but, ultimately, I think I just got a bad overclocker. I guess I can accept 4.1 Ghz but it's definitely disappointing.
I'll think about that. I'm a little reluctant to disable speed step for power and wear and tear purposes but it might be worth a shot.
I was thinking $300.00 max. Honestly my biggest complaint with my current card is how loud it is. I want something quieter and and more ram for texture. Doesn't have to be the greatest. High settings would be fine. I would like to play WatchDogs with better textures. Yes, I enjoy WatchDogs lol.
Tabasco
Member
The G402 looks great, but the non-braided cable is kind of a drawback.
Do braided cables last longer? Reason I'm asking is because I'm getting a new mouse because my MX518 has a cable issue so I'm paranoid of that happening again.
On the power saving situation, youve pretty much lost all the power saving since your using a fixed Vcore. So you coul give it a try.
An ideal OC uses offset vcore and C States enabled. So if you are reay to settle with 4.1Ghz, work towards getting offset Vcore setup.
J
Jotamide
Unconfirmed Member
Guys, I heard the EVGA GTX 970 may not be the optimal one. Which one would you recommend? MSI, ASUS, Gigabyte?
Gigabyte then MSI. GALAX's should be good too but no reviews yet.
xBladeM6x
Member
The manufacturing "error" was overstated. It's only a 1-3 degree difference. They're all good. But Gigabyte or MSI seems to be "better" in this case.
Woffls
Member
I've been using my PC all day, and my current core temp range is this on a 5820K (not sure why package temp is so much highe)r:
This is with OC at 1.2v constant and 4.2Ghz, but with speedstep or whatever dropping the clock speed. Will disabling speedstep give me more accurate idle temps, or does it not make any difference if the cores aren't under load anyway?
This is with OC at 1.2v constant and 4.2Ghz, but with speedstep or whatever dropping the clock speed. Will disabling speedstep give me more accurate idle temps, or does it not make any difference if the cores aren't under load anyway?
I'm having some issues with my system right now that only appeared after I installed all of the drivers off of Asus's z97 Sabertooth Mark 2 download page.
Do you generally install your Mobo's optional drivers even if the MS update has them working? I see why you would install the chipset driver and even the audio driver if you aren't satisfied with the default MS driver, but I am really hesistant to install all of the other crap Asus puts out. AI suite, EZupdate, optional USB 3.0 drivers, etc. What do you typically do?
Do you generally install your Mobo's optional drivers even if the MS update has them working? I see why you would install the chipset driver and even the audio driver if you aren't satisfied with the default MS driver, but I am really hesistant to install all of the other crap Asus puts out. AI suite, EZupdate, optional USB 3.0 drivers, etc. What do you typically do?
Everything is normal and fine.I've been using my PC all day, and my current core temp range is this on a 5820K (not sure why package temp is so much highe)r:
This is with OC at 1.2v constant and 4.2Ghz, but with speedstep or whatever dropping the clock speed. Will disabling speedstep give me more accurate idle temps, or does it not make any difference if the cores aren't under load anyway?
If shits working I leave it alone.
CPU won't, depends on the game.
I've been using my PC all day, and my current core temp range is this on a 5820K (not sure why package temp is so much highe)r:
This is with OC at 1.2v constant and 4.2Ghz, but with speedstep or whatever dropping the clock speed. Will disabling speedstep give me more accurate idle temps, or does it not make any difference if the cores aren't under load anyway?
1. None of this matters since its idle.
2. The Digital Thermal Sensors become less accurate as they get further from TJMax.
3. Package temp is probably using a better sensor, but still inaccurate until TCase.
4. Real idle temps lower than ambient temps is impossible unless on exotic cooling.
Doing anything will not make idle temps more accurate. Intel designed them to be only calibrated at TJmax, any other temperature is of no concern to them, the sensors are there mainly to help Turbo speed negotiation and to prevent you from frying the chip.
Never install all the drivers, most are not needed and buggy.
All you need is:
Chipset
LAN
3rd Party SATA 6 (Asmedia etc)
USB 3.0
Wifi/Bluetooth
I also never install the Realtek Audio drivers, MS ones work just fine.
Only install Asus AiSuite if you want the fan control stuff in Windows, if you are happy with BIOS controls, then dont bother. All motherboard software is buggy and bloatware, although i find Asus to be the best of the rest.
Woffls
Member
I thought there might be something up with the sensors and that it might cause higher temp readings might be inaccurate, but it sounds like this isn't the case. Thanks!
appaws
Banned
The 7850 was a nice card for 1080p gaming for a long time, but it is starting to show its age.
I would argue that the recently released 980 and 970, especially the 970, represent a great leap in price/performance. I don't think you can sit around waiting for a die shrink when there are so many great games to play. I would build a Devil's Canyon i7 with a GTX 970 machine right now. That would leave you well set for an upgrade if you went and bought a 2560x1440 or even a 4K monitor down the road.
Looking for feedback.
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