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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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Here's a build I'm close to pulling the trigger on. Want to build a 1080p gaming PC that I can sit in the living room when needed.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690S 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Blue 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($112.74 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($194.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 250D Mini ITX Tower Case ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Plus 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $823.67
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-30 18:19 EDT-0400
 

pastrami

Member
Is Zotac a decent company for GPUs? I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on their GTX 970, but it's been a long time since I've built a computer and I'm wondering if they are a reputable brand. Do they have good customer service (if it dies will they replace it hassle free)?
 

Woffls

Member
So I ran AIDA64 to stress test my 5820K, and I bailed after five minutes because the temperatures were getting rather high, but it was stable at 4.4Ghz 1.28v for that time, where 1.27v just crashed in a matter of seconds.

I'm not sure how long I want to run it at these temperatures, though, just for the sake of pushing it to levels I'll never need:

aaa_zps7521d9bc.png


Presumably it would have kept going until the temps got too high and the damage prevention stuff kicked in?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Is Zotac a decent company for GPUs? I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on their GTX 970, but it's been a long time since I've built a computer and I'm wondering if they are a reputable brand. Do they have good customer service (if it dies will they replace it hassle free)?
They're considered a C-Tier AIB. There's anecdotes about their customer service, but there's anecdotes about everyone's customer service.
So I ran AIDA64 to stress test my 5820K, and I bailed after five minutes because the temperatures were getting rather high, but it was stable at 4.4Ghz 1.28v for that time, where 1.27v just crashed in a matter of seconds.

I'm not sure how long I want to run it at these temperatures, though, just for the sake of pushing it to levels I'll never need:

aaa_zps7521d9bc.png


Presumably it would have kept going until the temps got too high and the damage prevention stuff kicked in?
That's an average core temp of 73 degrees. I wouldn't fret too much about that. You're good into the high 70s.
 

Amaya

Banned
Wouldn't hurt to upgrade your CPU. What kind of budget are you thinking for the video card?



I was thinking $300.00 max. Honestly my biggest complaint with my current card is how loud it is. I want something quieter and and more ram for texture. Doesn't have to be the greatest. High settings would be fine. I would like to play WatchDogs with better textures. Yes, I enjoy WatchDogs lol.
 

Ronnie

Banned
Hi all,

I'm looking to build a gaming PC exclusively for playing Elite Dangerous. I come from a Mac/Nintendo background so barely know anything about this kind of thing. I'd like the game to run very well on my Apple 27" cinema display, but I'd only be looking to spend about £500-£600 at most.

Would appreciate some help in terms of (in particular) which processor, motherboard and graphics card to go for. I thought this website looked good:

http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/computers/intel-haswell-pc/

Any help would be hugely appreciated thank you in advance. Sorry to sound like a complete noob.


Budget: £400-£650 - UK
Main Use: Elite Dangerous, nothing else.
Monitor Resolution: Apple 27" LED cinema display. Assume I would play at 1080p
When will you build?: In the next couple of months
Will you be overclocking?: No
 

Danlord

Member
Can anyone recommend any good 140mm case fans (not pressure ones), preferably silent but if not, good enough quality that they have 3/4 pins to be able to adjust RPM and such.

Thanks.
 

Smokey

Member
Old

14242806460_cf2f665063.jpg


New

15219327910_ae9782714c.jpg


15405988005_6ea411a493_z.jpg


15382954376_36387f313d.jpg


The Nvidia bridge definitely has some weight to it and is solid. The greens are not this light but my shitty phone camera couldn't capture it correctly.
 
Can anyone recommend any good 140mm case fans (not pressure ones), preferably silent but if not, good enough quality that they have 3/4 pins to be able to adjust RPM and such.

Thanks.

I like what fractal has. I have a Fractal case and bought 2 more to go along with the ones that came w/ the case.
 
I just noticed that task manager is reporting my ram speed as 1333MHz. I have two Crucial Vengeance Blue 4GB 1600MHz sticks.

What's going on? Why is my RAM only running at 1333MHz? Perhaps a setting in the motherboard? I'm using a Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H. What should I do?
 

ricki42

Member
I just noticed that task manager is reporting my ram speed as 1333MHz. I have two Crucial Vengeance Blue 4GB 1600MHz sticks.

What's going on? Why is my RAM only running at 1333MHz? Perhaps a setting in the motherboard? I'm using a Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H. What should I do?

1333MHz is the default, not overclocked value. Check your motherboard's manual for how to enable higher speeds. On my motherboard there's a switch and then the BIOS automatically used the higher frequency.
 

Danlord

Member
I like what fractal has. I have a Fractal case and bought 2 more to go along with the ones that came w/ the case.

Thanks I'll take a look.

I just noticed that task manager is reporting my ram speed as 1333MHz. I have two Crucial Vengeance Blue 4GB 1600MHz sticks.

What's going on? Why is my RAM only running at 1333MHz? Perhaps a setting in the motherboard? I'm using a Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H. What should I do?

I had similar issue. I have an ASUS Maximus Ranger VII and have 2133MHz RAM but my Motherboard initially recognised it as 1333MHz also. Turns out above a certain amount is overclock for the motherboard so it's a simple change in your BIOS to change the DIMM frequency (I think it was referred to) from Auto to 1600MHz. That's how I sorted mine.
 
Old

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5037/14242806460_cf2f665063.jpg[/ig]

New

[img]https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2946/15219327910_ae9782714c.jpg[/ig]

[img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3929/15405988005_6ea411a493_z.jpg[/ig]

[img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3929/15382954376_36387f313d.jpg[/mg]

The Nvidia bridge definitely has some weight to it and is solid. The greens are not this light but my shitty phone camera couldn't capture it correctly.[/QUOTE]

I get chills every time you post pics and I love it.
 

ekgrey

Member
They're considered a C-Tier AIB. There's anecdotes about their customer service, but there's anecdotes about everyone's customer service.

That's an average core temp of 73 degrees. I wouldn't fret too much about that. You're good into the high 70s.

what's an AIB?

15382954376_36387f313d.jpg


The Nvidia bridge definitely has some weight to it and is solid. The greens are not this light but my shitty phone camera couldn't capture it correctly.

man that looks slick. it's actually made by nVidia? i didn't think they made anything themselves.
 

wowzors

Member
Quick question not sure where else to look. I have a desktop hooked up via HDMI to my Sony kdl47w802a into the HDMI 2 slot. HDMI 1 is connected to the receiver as it is the ARC.

It doesn't seem like Dolby digital is passing through the speakers, do I have to have the PC plugged directly into the receiver to get that?
 

kennah

Member
Anything the human body is capable of attaining is not a worrisome temperature for a CPU.

Start to worry when you could boil water...
 

Arken2121

Member
Hey guys, just having a bit of an issue with my internet and I think I've done everything on my end to fix it but i'd like some feedback. Pretty much the issue is my upstream is very unstable. I usually stream on twitch and have an upload of around 20mbps. However, I noticed that I was constantly getting dropped frames regardless of the time of day.

I ran Shaperprobe and every time it tried to test my upload, it couldn't complete due to a high rate of packet loss. Downstream was fine.

I replaced the modem, changed ethernet cables, connected directly to my modem instead of my router, did a recent reformat and made sure I had the latest in networking drivers. I already have a tech coming but I was curious if I missed anything?
 
I think your intuition is right. Check your mobo for capacitor swell and try the paperclip test on your PSU.

I did the paperclip test on my power supply and though I've read it's not definitive I think I can rule out a busted PSU because it ran normal/uninterrupted by itself and also powered a case fan without issue during the test.

I think I'm just going to hit up MicroCenter and first buy new RAM and if my system still isn't booting I'll go back and pick up a new mobo. Hope MicroCenter has a decent return policy.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Hey guys, just having a bit of an issue with my internet and I think I've done everything on my end to fix it but i'd like some feedback. Pretty much the issue is my upstream is very unstable. I usually stream on twitch and have an upload of around 20mbps. However, I noticed that I was constantly getting dropped frames regardless of the time of day.

I ran Shaperprobe and every time it tried to test my upload, it couldn't complete due to a high rate of packet loss. Downstream was fine.

I replaced the modem, changed ethernet cables, connected directly to my modem instead of my router, did a recent reformat and made sure I had the latest in networking drivers. I already have a tech coming but I was curious if I missed anything?
Different Ethernet card?
I did the paperclip test on my power supply and though I've read it's not definitive I think I can rule out a busted PSU because it ran normal/uninterrupted by itself and also powered a case fan without issue during the test.

I think I'm just going to hit up MicroCenter and first buy new RAM and if my system still isn't booting I'll go back and pick up a new mobo. Hope MicroCenter has a decent return policy.
Did you go through the steps in the second post about PC boot help?
 

Katoki

Member
Had something happen that I can't seem to find squat on the internet about. My brother's computer which I had cleaned out the dust from sometime last Tuesday starts with every single fan at 100% including the graphics card and no video out. I've isolated it to the Gigabyte 760 I put in there for him but it took a week for this to crop up since he first started noticing it this morning and was fine the night before it. With the card out and on the Intel integrated, the fans and the computer operate as normal.

I plugged that sucker into my computer and all my fans went 100% too with no video output. Anyone ever come across this?
 

LordAlu

Member
Hi all,

I'm looking to build a gaming PC exclusively for playing Elite Dangerous. I come from a Mac/Nintendo background so barely know anything about this kind of thing. I'd like the game to run very well on my Apple 27" cinema display, but I'd only be looking to spend about £500-£600 at most.

Would appreciate some help in terms of (in particular) which processor, motherboard and graphics card to go for. I thought this website looked good:

http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/computers/intel-haswell-pc/

Any help would be hugely appreciated thank you in advance. Sorry to sound like a complete noob.

Budget: £400-£650 - UK
Main Use: Elite Dangerous, nothing else.
Monitor Resolution: Apple 27" LED cinema display. Assume I would play at 1080p
When will you build?: In the next couple of months
Will you be overclocking?: No
What input connection does your cinema display have?
 

Jimrpg

Member
OC is very important if you want longevity IMO.
Regular cheap 212 is fine.
Shadowplay can sometimes be better for low bandwidth but you have so much less control vs OBS and you really want at least 2000 up for a half decent 720 stream.
550 is fine for single card

Ok cheers.

Use OBS to stream, your CPU is plenty strong for streaming and gaming simultaneously. Your internet connection is a major problem though if you want to stream. You need at least 3mbs upload I would say for stable 720p streaming at 2000-2500 bitrate. If your upload is like 1.5mbs then you can probably stream 480p at 1500 bitrate.

Shadowplay is too simplistic and there aren't enough settings to find the right mix of quality and stability, and OBS gives you real time info on frame loss and bitrate during streaming.

I live in a small town in Malaysia, and the internet is horrible. I will have to convince the elders that they need speedier broadband, but we just upgraded from 1Mbps to 4Mbps. The speed normally is ok, but on busier days like the weekend, the internet just crawls because of the excessive traffic.

Ah drats I just did a bit of research, there's a 'contention' ratio on our internet of 1:25 meaning during peak hours its shared with 25 other households... ie possibly 160kbps internet.... I just moved here from Australia where we had 25Mbps... :(

Also upload is at 512kbps - so im guessing I need to upgrade to fibre optic then to do any streaming...
 

LordAlu

Member
Thanks for the reply, my display connection is Mini DisplayPort. Doing a google search it seems there are DVI adapters for it.
There are two ways you could go then. You could go for a higher CPU now (which will probably be more useful) with a relatively decent graphics card, like the build below:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£171.54 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£24.98 @ CCL Computers)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£68.36 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Kingston 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£61.68 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£51.94 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£37.50 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R7 265 2GB Video Card (£110.33 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£31.43 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£35.38 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£68.99 @ Aria PC)
Total: £662.13
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-01 13:24 BST+0100

or you could go for a lower CPU (which you could overclock the nuts off) and a much better graphics card:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor (£47.94 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£24.98 @ CCL Computers)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£68.36 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Kingston 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£61.68 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£51.94 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£37.50 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 290 4GB TurboDuo Video Card (£219.99 @ Ebuyer)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£31.43 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£35.38 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£68.99 @ Aria PC)
Total: £648.19
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-01 13:24 BST+0100

I'd personally be more tempted to go with the first one and then upgrade the graphics card next year myself. I've also included Windows as I'm not sure how the Reddit situation is going, but should that be okay then you could also use some of the money tied up in that.
 

kharma45

Member
Hi all,

I'm looking to build a gaming PC exclusively for playing Elite Dangerous. I come from a Mac/Nintendo background so barely know anything about this kind of thing. I'd like the game to run very well on my Apple 27" cinema display, but I'd only be looking to spend about £500-£600 at most.

Would appreciate some help in terms of (in particular) which processor, motherboard and graphics card to go for. I thought this website looked good:

http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/computers/intel-haswell-pc/

Any help would be hugely appreciated thank you in advance. Sorry to sound like a complete noob.


Budget: £400-£650 - UK
Main Use: Elite Dangerous, nothing else.
Monitor Resolution: Apple 27" LED cinema display. Assume I would play at 1080p
When will you build?: In the next couple of months
Will you be overclocking?: No

Do you need Windows? If not then I've two potential builds for £650 that I did for someone else you could consider.

The first is an ATX mid tower.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£165.90 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£99.56 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£59.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra Plus 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£45.58 @ Scan.co.uk)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£44.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: be quiet! 530W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£51.04 @ Scan.co.uk)
Other: ASUS Radeon R9 280 DirectCU II TOP OC 3GB GDDR5 (£139.99)
Total: £647.03
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-01 13:27 BST+0100


Next option is a mATX build. Smaller than a regular ATX build but I've got a soft spot for them now. I almost find mid towers too big.

Still has plenty of room inside though, especially for a single GPU set up

This case is also designed to be quiet and has sound deadening materials in it.

Anyway, this is what you'd be looking at with it

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£165.90 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Asus Z97M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£93.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£59.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£51.94 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Cooler Master Silencio 352 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£41.92 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: be quiet! 530W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£51.04 @ Scan.co.uk)
Other: ASUS Radeon R9 280 DirectCU II TOP OC 3GB GDDR5 (£139.99)
Total: £644.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-01 13:28 BST+0100

Both builds though have an SSD (SSD in the mATX is a slightly better drive but the Sandisk is fine) which is great to have, a good HDD and a GPU that still has decent legs on it even now, plus three free games. PSU is a good one too, I have the 430w version. It's quiet and modular so makes building nice. If you want a bit more power (not that it's really needed) the 630w one is £6 more which isn't much really for a bigger unit.

We can go cheaper with the RAM. Dropping to 1333MHz stuff would save £4 or so.
 
There are two ways you could go then. You could go for a higher CPU now (which will probably be more useful) with a relatively decent graphics card, like the build below:



or you could go for a lower CPU (which you could overclock the nuts off) and a much better graphics card:



I'd personally be more tempted to go with the first one and then upgrade the graphics card next year myself. I've also included Windows as I'm not sure how the Reddit situation is going, but should that be okay then you could also use some of the money tied up in that.
So right now it's a better idea to invest in a CPU than GPU if I'm planning on upgrading in 16 months but budget limited now? I have a budget of roughly 650 CAD and was thinking of building with the Pentium now and getting either a 280 or holding out for the 960, then getting an i5 a bit over a year from now. Are those cards just not future proof enough for that to be a good strategy?
 

garath

Member
Quick question not sure where else to look. I have a desktop hooked up via HDMI to my Sony kdl47w802a into the HDMI 2 slot. HDMI 1 is connected to the receiver as it is the ARC.

It doesn't seem like Dolby digital is passing through the speakers, do I have to have the PC plugged directly into the receiver to get that?

I've had a lot of trouble getting TVs to pass the correct signal in the past. ARC will sometimes recognize the TV as a stereo device and therefore not pass a 5 channel sound and it will never pass lossless sound. Best setup is always to have your sound source going into the receiver and pass the video from the receiver to the TV. ARC is handy for the oddball netflix through your smart TV or whatever but the receiver should be the first in the chain almost always. The only downside is the potential for lip sync issues - i.e. the TV does too much processing and the image happens a noticeable time after the sound does. However, usually receivers have settings for lip sync delay that can put it back in sync.
 

Magnus

Member
So, I got burned out on Destiny's lack of a compelling story, world, characters, whatever, and decided to fire up that copy of Borderlands 2 on PS3 that was free with PS Plus.

Wow, this thing's great, but ugly, I'm thinking.

I have a PC rig from 2008, see, and never thought to even try it there.

Then I see that Steam's got the full GOTY edition of BL2 on sale for $10 (ten whole dollars) and think, what the hell. I meet the minimum system reqs, even on this old beast, and I download it.

Holy fuckballs.

This game runs like a fucking dream with all sorts of effects the PS3 version is missing, nevermind the improved resolution and framerate. What an upped experience.

So I'm like, wow, I've got PC gaming all wrong. I really thought the current state of PC gaming was essentially this walled garden with a $1k+ entry fee for legitimately impressive visuals and performance. What the fuck @the PS3 version when BL2 can look THIS good on an archaic PC from 2008?

TLDR: this has seriously rekindled my interest in building a new PC, because, as awesome as this experience has been, this rig still can't handle RE4 Ultimate very well, for whatever reason.

I intend to leap straight into PC gaming and really see what I've been missing out on.

I know this thread is the major resource for building one, and I'm grateful for it. Can someone point me to the current main Steam thread? I created a new Steam account to nab the BL2 sale quick, but I apparently have old Steam accounts with games on them that I don't want to lose. Is there a way to merge them? Thanks!
 

kennah

Member
Yeah pc gaming is great.

The current steam thread is perpetually on the gaming first page.. Just look for the thread that says Steam.
 
Powerline adapters....

Moving house soon and where my PC will be - shall be nowhere near the Router unfortunately.

My Maximum download speed according to my network provider is 40Mb p/s

So - taking that into consideration.

Am I perfectly ok with the cheap 200Mb ones

Or is it worth going that extra £££ more for the 500MB ones?

Router is the standard Netgear
 
Had something happen that I can't seem to find squat on the internet about. My brother's computer which I had cleaned out the dust from sometime last Tuesday starts with every single fan at 100% including the graphics card and no video out. I've isolated it to the Gigabyte 760 I put in there for him but it took a week for this to crop up since he first started noticing it this morning and was fine the night before it. With the card out and on the Intel integrated, the fans and the computer operate as normal.

I plugged that sucker into my computer and all my fans went 100% too with no video output. Anyone ever come across this?

Same thing happened to me. It's the Windforce card right? If so, then I have that exact same card. I still had video output though. I figured out that the middle fan wasn't spinning even though all the fans sounded like they were at 100%. All I did was take the card out and I spun the middle fan for a while with my finger, put it back in and everything was normal. I had to do that twice when I first installed the card a few months ago. It's been working great ever since.

So check to see that all three fans spin properly. I have no useful advice other than that though lol.
 
Can anyone recommend a good blu ray software? I bought a blu Ray drive when I was building my pc a few months ago, but it didn't come with any software to play blu rays.
Now I'm kicking myself in the ass for not doing proper research.
 

riflen

Member
Powerline adapters....

Moving house soon and where my PC will be - shall be nowhere near the Router unfortunately.

My Maximum download speed according to my network provider is 40Mb p/s

So - taking that into consideration.

Am I perfectly ok with the cheap 200Mb ones

Or is it worth going that extra £££ more for the 500MB ones?

Router is the standard Netgear

No-one can answer this definitively for you, because powerline performance will depend on the wiring in your property. There is no guarantee that the 500Mbit (or 1Gbit units) will achieve better results.

I have 200Mbit powerline in my home and although it's a small flat, I cannot get more than about 50Mbit real throughput between end points. I would say that if your Internet connection is 40Mbit max, then try the 200Mbit units.

I still prefer them over wireless because although the bandwidth is not spectacular, the latency ( ~5ms) and consistency is much better than wireless would ever be in my home. For the games I like to play, latency is by far the most important thing.
 

massoluk

Banned
I just want to ask a very naive answer, "is this a good time to build a pc?"

Of course, the answer is always "No shit."

But I'm concerned if there's a new standard coming out I should wait for, like when I waited for PCI Express and DDR2 Ram (Yes, it was that long since I made a new rig)
 
No-one can answer this definitively for you, because powerline performance will depend on the wiring in your property. There is no guarantee that the 500Mbit (or 1Gbit units) will achieve better results.

I have 200Mbit powerline in my home and although it's a small flat, I cannot get more than about 50Mbit real throughput between end points. I would say that if your Internet connection is 40Mbit max, then try the 200Mbit units.

I still prefer them over wireless because although the bandwidth is not spectacular, the latency ( ~5ms) and consistency is much better than wireless would ever be in my home. For the games I like to play, latency is by far the most important thing.

Excellent, cheers.

I expect the wiring to be poor as it's not been done since it was built in the 80's at a guess.

It all works though...!

Just wanting better than wireless performance
 

Ronnie

Banned
Thanks guys for the reply much appreciated...

There are two ways you could go then. You could go for a higher CPU now (which will probably be more useful) with a relatively decent graphics card, like the build below:

or you could go for a lower CPU (which you could overclock the nuts off) and a much better graphics card:

I'd personally be more tempted to go with the first one and then upgrade the graphics card next year myself. I've also included Windows as I'm not sure how the Reddit situation is going, but should that be okay then you could also use some of the money tied up in that.

Bear in mind it's honestly only to play one game (Elite), would a higher CPU or better graphics card be more useful? If the second graphics card is that much better I might just get the better CPU and spend an extra £100. The Elite site mentions specifically i5 or i7 so would rather go with that.

Do I need two storage drives? I was thinking just the 128GB SSD would be enough? I suppose a 1TB HDD doesn't add much to the cost.

Are none of these graphics cards right for me?

graphics.jpg


As completely clueless about building PCs as I am, I have to ask... does the configuration matter, as in, do some things work better with others (specific motherboard with specific graphics card etc) or can you mix and match without making much of a difference and they'll all play together fine?

Do you need Windows? If not then I've two potential builds for £650 that I did for someone else you could consider.

Thank you for your build suggestions, much appreciated. I think I'd like to have Windows, is this a problem? (not sure what ATX is, sorry to sound like a complete noob). As mentioned above I just need the minimum set-up for Elite Dangerous to run as good as possible within my budget. Future proofing isn't that important.
 
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