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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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AHA-Lambda

Member
How much do you want to spend. Nothing special about that motherboard. You can get the mpower or the mximus VII for that kind of money. edit; Now seeing sabertooth. Don't get that. Just a pretty board.

Total budget I have is about £1200 to play with. I wouldn't want to spend more than £200 on a mb anyway.
 

rocK`

Banned
OK - looks like this will be my build. Any thoughts?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5930K 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($589.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($8.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus X99-DELUXE ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($357.29 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($269.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel 730 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($565.91 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($565.91 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.25 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($143.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus PB287Q 60Hz 28.0" Monitor ($609.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $3566.28
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-10 19:29 EDT-0400

pulled the trigger on this. was able to find 980s from an amazon retailer. lets hoping i dont get stiffed.

I switched the monitor out with the LG34UM. Excited.
 

xBladeM6x

Member
pulled the trigger on this. was able to find 980s from an amazon retailer. lets hoping i dont get stiffed.

I switched the monitor out with the LG34UM. Excited.

Let us know how games look when downscaling to 1080p. I'm wondering if it looks like a native 1080p monitor would, or if it's weird and blurry, as if it's artificial.
 
GTX 690. Still a good card, but the 2GB VRAM is making it feel very long in the tooth. I also don't like the fact that I'm too reliant on good SLI profiles to get good performance now. SLI is great for pushing stuff like Cryengine to stupid levels, but it's not so great if you need a profile for almost any game. I'm also feeling that Nvidia has been dropping the ball a bit in regards to SLI support at launch lately, with Dead Rising 3, Shadow of Mordor and The Vanishing of Ethan Carter all lacking profiles. You can do some tweaking in Nvidia Inspector on all 3 to run SLI, but they don't work great, with the exception of TWOEC.

Considering waiting for 9xx models with more VRAM though. Don't want to be caught being unable to maximize textures even at 1080p again.



Thanks for the feedback! I see you have a similar setup reading further back in the thread, and it helps hearing that you're happy with it. It also helps that I know that you know what you're talking about, so I'm leaning towards the X99 setup now.

1 more question:

x16/x8 PCIe Gen 3 should be good enough for SLI, right? I guess it's going to take something pretty special to saturate those lanes.

If I were you I would wait for the 8GB Maxwells and then build an X99 system then. I would go single GPU and not bother with SLI personally (unless you really need the perf I suppose). In fact your CPU is very good anyway, you could probably get away with just a GPU upgrade. I would lean towards that actually, but YMMV.
 

Deepo

Member
If I were you I would wait for the 8GB Maxwells and then build an X99 system then. I would go single GPU and not bother with SLI personally (unless you really need the perf I suppose). In fact your CPU is very good anyway, you could probably get away with just a GPU upgrade. I would lean towards that actually, but YMMV.

Yeah, I forgot to mention that my 3570K was fried in a thunderstorm a few days ago, so I don't want to wait too long :)
 

Xiraiya

Member
I plan to begin upgrading my PC around christmas since the 970 just came out and I'm about 7 years overdue.

I don't particularly want to deal with Windows 8, So I was going to get 7 since it's got extended support until at least 2020, by that point Windows 10 will have been out awhile and have it's kinks worked out, so I can just get that then.

I don't really want Home, so the toss up is between 7 Professional and Ultimate, aside from XP Mode (Which I believe they both have), is there anything really in Ultimate that make makes it worth the extra 50'ish dollars?
 

Makareu

Member
The asus z97 pro wifi in your whislist.

edit : in contrast to audio, built-in bluetooth and wifi are not the norm. So if that matters to you the z97 pro wifi is pretty much the best you can get.
 

Deepo

Member
In that case just use your current card for now and upgrade the GPU(s) later. The wait for that shouldn't be too long.

Oh damn! Yeah, then go for the X99 system and use your current GPUs until the high-memory ones come out?

Yeah, I think I'll be doing just that. Thanks for helping me decide! :)

I'm far from an expert on SLI (I try to stay as far away from it as possible ;)) but the last benchmarks I saw didn't show any significant performance difference between 16 and 8 lanes.

Haha, yeah, I can see why you'd want to do that. SLI can be a right pain, and it sometimes leads to problems in games that are really hard to actually identify as problems with SLI. Take Shadow of Mordor for example: Easily SLI enabled by a little change in the NVCPL, seemingly pretty great SLI scaling. Benchmark runs like a champ, putting out almost double the frames of a single card. But in-game, you get these enormous frame drops on seemingly random places that turns out, after ruling out everything else, to be a problem with SLI. PC gaming already has a lot of potential sources of errors, so adding another one isn't always smart. But when it works: oh man. That makes it all worth it.

Btw Durante, would you mind telling me which ASRock MB you're running? Reading some horror stories about the ASUS X99-Deluxe board, so would be great to know of some tested alternatives. Thanks!
 

AHA-Lambda

Member
The asus z97 pro wifi in your whislist.

edit : in contrast to audio, built-in bluetooth and wifi are not the norm. So if that matters to you the z97 pro wifi is pretty much the best you can get.

OK, thanks very much. I had no idea built in wifi was so difficult to find =/
 

Durante

Member
Btw Durante, would you mind telling me which ASRock MB you're running? Reading some horror stories about the ASUS X99-Deluxe board, so would be great to know of some tested alternatives. Thanks!
I use this one: http://geizhals.at/asrock-x99-extreme4-90-mxgvl0-a0uayz-a1148673.html

My decision process on that wasn't anything special though, I just chose the cheapest X99 board that had all the features I needed (the most unusual of that being 2 accessible PCIe 2.0 slots).
 
I wish more mobos included wi-fi in them. Seems like something that should be standard regardless if it's primarily for gaming or not, IMO. Yeah, wireless sucks for gaming but what device today doesn't have wireless? Especially when you're paying premium prices at over $200...all mobos should include it then.
 
The only Amazon retailers I see are charging insane $650+ for reference 980s....

Same here. I've been monitoring it the past week and that's the only prices I've seen from other retailers.

A G-Series 550w SeaSonic should be more than enough for some overclocking on a 4790k/GTX 980 right guys? I'm looking at the watts on full load for a 980 and it seems that PSU should be more than powerful enough to handle it. It's only $79.99 on Amazon.
 

xBladeM6x

Member
I wish more mobos included wi-fi in them. Seems like something that should be standard regardless if it's primarily for gaming or not, IMO. Yeah, wireless sucks for gaming but what device today doesn't have wireless? Especially when you're paying premium prices at over $200...all mobos should include it then.

I agree, but if I remember correctly, a lot of them are just taken off the board and sold as PCI expansions.
 

Pepiope

Member
I plan to begin upgrading my PC around christmas since the 970 just came out and I'm about 7 years overdue.

I don't particularly want to deal with Windows 8, So I was going to get 7 since it's got extended support until at least 2020, by that point Windows 10 will have been out awhile and have it's kinks worked out, so I can just get that then.

I don't really want Home, so the toss up is between 7 Professional and Ultimate, aside from XP Mode (Which I believe they both have), is there anything really in Ultimate that make makes it worth the extra 50'ish dollars?
Well if Windows 8 users do in fact get the Windows 10 update free...I would just deal with Windows 8 for a few months until 10 comes out. I'm not sure if MS has commented on that yet though.
 
I agree, but if I remember correctly, a lot of them are just taken off the board and sold as PCI expansions.

Yup. I have a hard time believing that a lot of PC builders will find it a useless feature or it's not very cost effective for them. Seems like it would be something very cheap to put on boards seeing as everything today has wi-fi in it. Could be wrong but w/e. Just doesn't seem right to buy a board over $200 without wi-fi included.
 
I plan to begin upgrading my PC around christmas since the 970 just came out and I'm about 7 years overdue.

I don't particularly want to deal with Windows 8, So I was going to get 7 since it's got extended support until at least 2020, by that point Windows 10 will have been out awhile and have it's kinks worked out, so I can just get that then.

I don't really want Home, so the toss up is between 7 Professional and Ultimate, aside from XP Mode (Which I believe they both have), is there anything really in Ultimate that make makes it worth the extra 50'ish dollars?

I don't think it's confirmed yet BUT they have strong rumors going around W7 users might get W10 cheap while W8 users might get it even cheaper or free. Have you used W8 lately? It's actually very functional now with the UI and is much better than the disaster it was when it first came out. You can always tweak the UI if you want.

As for the difference, are you an IT specialist because I think most of the extra features in Ultimate are for them and not consumers. I know it has Bitlocker Drive Encryption but I'm sure what beyond that over Professional.
 

ekgrey

Member
yeah, add me to the chorus of those who find Windows 8.1 just fine. never used vanilla 8 but went from 7 on a laptop straight to 8.1 with my new build and have had exactly zero problems with it, including game compatibility. really pleasantly surprised. went ahead and installed Classic Shell but honestly the Home Screen is fine. might end up going back to it when i have to clean up my programs/do a fresh install.

also, you almost certainly know SOMEONE at school, right? paying full price for Windows should be a last resort. there's also some keys for sale in the B/S/T thread that are confirmed legit and include every permutation you could want of 7 or 8 (Pro, Ultimate, mad scientist, etc.)

Yeah, I forgot to mention that my 3570K was fried in a thunderstorm a few days ago, so I don't want to wait too long :)

damn, that is horrible! sorry. how did it happen? not using a surge protector? really curious about this topic because i love having new anxieties. -_-
 

~Kinggi~

Banned
Dont know whats going on but i cant install the new geforce experience 2.1.3. It keeps failing trying to download .net framework. Tried updating through the program and downloading the installer directly. Tried running as admin etc. Have windows 7. It says i have .net 4.5 framework installed.

Any ideas?
 

Xiraiya

Member
Well if Windows 8 users do in fact get the Windows 10 update free...I would just deal with Windows 8 for a few months until 10 comes out. I'm not sure if MS has commented on that yet though.
I don't think it's confirmed yet BUT they have strong rumors going around W7 users might get W10 cheap while W8 users might get it even cheaper or free. Have you used W8 lately? It's actually very functional now with the UI and is much better than the disaster it was when it first came out. You can always tweak the UI if you want.

As for the difference, are you an IT specialist because I think most of the extra features in Ultimate are for them and not consumers. I know it has Bitlocker Drive Encryption but I'm sure what beyond that over Professional.

I heard about Windows 8 Users getting Windows 9 for free but I was kind of confused about 10 and what the deal is with that, and that makes sense, sounds like Pro makes the most sense at this point.
 
Budget: ~$1200
Cuurent PC: Q9650, 4GB RAM, HD6850, 256GB Samsung 840 SSD (will be using in next build), 750GB HDD.

Planning to OC, but nothing too crazy and am hoping for a very quiet PC.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.95 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.66 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($147.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Blackout ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.98 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1016.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-12 15:35 EDT-0400

I'm pretty set on CPU and GPU and just got the Define R4 the other night when it was on sale. My main concerns are the PSU, Mobo, and RAM. Just wanted to see if there were any problems with those and if anyone has any advice on the build. I also need to make a decision on a HDD, but I'm still debating what size I want.

Edit: Also, I was thinking about getting a second 256GB SSD for games. Does anyone else do this? Is it problematic for any reason (splitting installs with Steam)?
 

Deepo

Member
damn, that is horrible! sorry. how did it happen? not using a surge protector? really curious about this topic because i love having new anxieties. -_-

What's REALLY horrible is that it's my own fault. I have 2 surge protectors under my desk. One where all 6 sockets are protected, and one where 4 are protected and 4 are not. When setting up the one where only half are protected, I made sure to put my PC, monitor and TV in the protected sockets. Now, I have at some point plugged my PC into an unprotected socket. Probably a stressful morning where I needed to charge my phone for a bit and I wasn't paying attention. So the other day, lightning struck, my PC turned off, and I smiled confidently, knowing that I had my shit taken care of. Tried turning it on the day after, and nope, no dice. The good thing is that my RAM survived (done a lot of memtest86+), and I had my 690 in another machine for testing. So it seems only the motherboard or the CPU or both has fried (and possibly PSU). Can't get my hands on a good replacement for either, so upgrade time it is.

Now, onto your new anxieties :) Turns out, after reading up on it and talking to an electrician, that a regular surge protector that you plug into the wall socket (called a fine surge protector i think) isn't necessarily enough to protect against lightning strikes. You need an extra box in your fuse box (called a coarse surge protector) in your fuse box for that. So I've gotten the missus to agree to have an electrician install one of those, and I've signed up for insurance in case of lightning strikes to prevent another disaster like this.
 
Man that's why I get paranoid around thunderstorms and unplug my stuff even when it's in a surge protector. I'm thinking about upgrading to a UPS personally but I've read their surge protection is not adequate. I don't think a lot can handle a direct lightning strike though. I wonder just how honorable surge protector companies are when they say, "Up to 100,000 in replacement fees should anything burn out on the surge protector due to acts of god".
 

appaws

Banned
Budget: ~$1200
Cuurent PC: Q9650, 4GB RAM, HD6850, 256GB Samsung 840 SSD (will be using in next build), 750GB HDD.

Planning to OC, but nothing too crazy and am hoping for a very quiet PC.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.95 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.66 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($147.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Blackout ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.98 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1016.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-12 15:35 EDT-0400

I'm pretty set on CPU and GPU and just got the Define R4 the other night when it was on sale. My main concerns are the PSU, Mobo, and RAM. Just wanted to see if there were any problems with those and if anyone has any advice on the build. I also need to make a decision on a HDD, but I'm still debating what size I want.

Edit: Also, I was thinking about getting a second 256GB SSD for games. Does anyone else do this? Is it problematic for any reason (splitting installs with Steam)?

You should get a Z97 motherboard to be able to OC that CPU.

For the RAM, just make sure you get some that does not have any big tall heat spreaders on top of it. First, those are bullshit, they don't help keep it cool...and second, they can make it difficult to fit your heatsink and fans on.

OK, I googled it...and it looks like that RAM is fine, low-profile stuff.
 

ekgrey

Member
oh maaaaaaaaaaan, that's brutal. being so careful about it only to be thrown off after one slip-up. :(

and wow. that's...a hefty new thing to freak out about. haha. *shakes fist at sky*
 
You should get a Z97 motherboard to be able to OC that CPU.

For the RAM, just make sure you get some that does not have any big tall heat spreaders on top of it. First, those are bullshit, they don't help keep it cool...and second, they can make it difficult to fit your heatsink and fans on.

OK, I googled it...and it looks like that RAM is fine, low-profile stuff.

Ok, just going with the ASRock Pro 3 from the OP.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.95 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($147.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Blackout ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.98 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1016.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-12 17:01 EDT-0400

Is the BP550W quiet? Is the ASRock still a good recommendation for OCing?

I have an old 8800GTS and I'm thinking about building the machine with that to mess around with OCing the CPU until the 970s come back in stock. Any problems with doing that?
 

Prez

Member
Man that's why I get paranoid around thunderstorms and unplug my stuff even when it's in a surge protector. I'm thinking about upgrading to a UPS personally but I've read their surge protection is not adequate. I don't think a lot can handle a direct lightning strike though. I wonder just how honorable surge protector companies are when they say, "Up to 100,000 in replacement fees should anything burn out on the surge protector due to acts of god".

I'm wondering if there are any surge protectors that at least provide certain protection when you turn the power switch off.
 

DarkoMaledictus

Tier Whore
Ok, just going with the ASRock Pro 3 from the OP.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.95 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($147.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Blackout ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.98 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1016.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-12 17:01 EDT-0400

Is the BP550W quiet? Is the ASRock still a good recommendation for OCing?

I have an old 8800GTS and I'm thinking about building the machine with that to mess around with OCing the CPU until the 970s come back in stock. Any problems with doing that?

Sounds good, but for an extra 380-400$ You could be going x99 6 core ddr4. But obviously depends on how much you want to put in.

Edit: Also expect the next push to be 4k and video cards going in the 6 and 8 gigs of ram... its coming!
 

Jocchan

Ὁ μεμβερος -ου
Any Corsair Carbide 500R owners around?

I've been warned about this issue with bigger connectors such as the front USB 3.0:

uKvMkUT.jpg

Should I get worried? The mobo I've been meaning to get (MSI Z97 Gaming 7) seems to have a bit more room for the front USB 3.0 connector, but would that be enough? Did anyone happen to run into the same issue?
 
My current rig, built in late 2011 (with the exception of the GTX 760, which I bought to replace a GTX 570)

Motherboard: Asus P8Z68V_PRO
CPU: i7 2600k
GPU: Currently a MSI 2GB GTX 760 (Have an MSI 970 on backorder)
Ram: 16GB
HD: 1TB + 256GB SSD

My question is what is the best i7 processor I can put into that motherboard? I'm quite out of touch with what my mboard will support (sockets, etc) I am concerned that it probably already is my bottleneck, and will definitely be my bottleneck after I get a GTX 970.

edit: I guess the bigger question is is a CPU upgrade needed or would it help me run my games faster?

Also important: I run games at 1920 x 1080p because it's my projector's native resolution.
 

The Llama

Member
My current rig, built in late 2011 (with the exception of the GTX 760, which I bought to replace a GTX 570)

Motherboard: Asus P8Z68V_PRO
CPU: i7 2600k
GPU: Currently a MSI 2GB GTX 760 (Have an MSI 970 on backorder)
Ram: 16GB
HD: 1TB + 256GB SSD

My question is what is the best i7 processor I can put into that motherboard? I'm quite out of touch with what my mboard will support (sockets, etc) I am concerned that it probably already is my bottleneck, and will definitely be my bottleneck after I get a GTX 970.

Overclock your CPU to 4GHz+ and it won't really bottleneck you at all.
 
Overclock your CPU to 4GHz+ and it won't really bottleneck you at all.

Thanks for the advice. Can you point me to the "right" way to OC my CPU? I know overclocking has changed since I last explored it, because that used to mean artifacts and short lifespan.

I should note that I have non-stock cooling on the CPU, since it was recommended when I got my build advice from GAF's chart back in late 2011.
 

DarkoMaledictus

Tier Whore
Any Corsair Carbide 500R owners around?

I've been warned about this issue with bigger connectors such as the front USB 3.0:



Should I get worried? The mobo I've been meaning to get (MSI Z97 Gaming 7) seems to have a bit more room for the front USB 3.0 connector, but would that be enough? Did anyone happen to run into the same issue?

I have the 750, seems to work just fine with it, but personally I don't like those connectors, they are flimsy and so easy to have them disconnect randomly when you are changing some stuff.
 

LilJoka

Member
Have you tried it? I did and the temps were crazy hot

Yes, i run a GTX 780 overclocked and i7 3770 @ 4.2Ghz with a Hyper 212. No temp issues at all. Get the cable management sorted out and you shouldnt have any issues.
CPU temps hit around 50c in games, GPU 80c. My GPU is a blower type so maybe its better for that. I have case and CPU fans at lowest settings.

Edit
You mean stock CPU cooler on devils canyon:
Dont need to try it, Intel cannot release a cooler that cannot dissipate the TDP of the CPU. What i do know is that it can reach 90c if stressed with AVX2 loads due to the CPU ability to request more Vcore under insane loads. Again, thats not an issue unless its at 90c for 24/7. Even so you probably shorten the lifetime from 10+ years to anywhere from 5-10years at worst. Intel know what they are doing, as i said the only downside is the noise. With Hyper 212 being so cheap, and offering reduced temps and noise, its a no brainer, but if budget is super tight, it can be put off with out worrying.
 

Jocchan

Ὁ μεμβερος -ου
Any Corsair Carbide 500R owners around?

I've been warned about this issue with bigger connectors such as the front USB 3.0:


Should I get worried? The mobo I've been meaning to get (MSI Z97 Gaming 7) seems to have a bit more room for the front USB 3.0 connector, but would that be enough? Did anyone happen to run into the same issue?

I have the 750, seems to work just fine with it, but personally I don't like those connectors, they are flimsy and so easy to have them disconnect randomly when you are changing some stuff.

You mean the Obsidian 750D? That one doesn't seem to have the small "step" for the cable management slots, right next to the front side connectors, that Carbide 400R and 500R have (see pic in my post).
So, if I'm understanding correctly, thanks, but it doesn't really answer my question (which is more about said step in the 400R/500R getting in the way or not).
 

wowzors

Member
So i just bought and installed a Bluray drive for my pc. Does anyone know of a bluray decrpytion software that is free? As it is right now I cant watch any of my bluray movies on the drive without using DVDFab but my trial only lasts till october 31st. Seems silly that I have to buy a $60 software to use my $80 drive.
 

LilJoka

Member
So i just bought and installed a Bluray drive for my pc. Does anyone know of a bluray decrpytion software that is free? As it is right now I cant watch any of my bluray movies on the drive without using DVDFab but my trial only lasts till october 31st. Seems silly that I have to buy a $60 software to use my $80 drive.

There is none afaik. You need the license to decode, and the software charges you.
Youll also find that you have to continuously update the software to decrypt newer films. Consoles like the PS3 actually excel in this are in terms of experience.
 

bro1

Banned
So i just bought and installed a Bluray drive for my pc. Does anyone know of a bluray decrpytion software that is free? As it is right now I cant watch any of my bluray movies on the drive without using DVDFab but my trial only lasts till october 31st. Seems silly that I have to buy a $60 software to use my $80 drive.
Have the same issue and it sucks.
 

DarkoMaledictus

Tier Whore
You mean the Obsidian 750D? That one doesn't seem to have the small "step" for the cable management slots, right next to the front side connectors, that Carbide 400R and 500R have (see pic in my post).
So, if I'm understanding correctly, thanks, but it doesn't really answer my question (which is more about said step in the 400R/500R getting in the way or not).

Not sure then, never used the 400R/500R sorry.
 
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