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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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Guys I need some help...

I have a i5 2500k with this mobo ASUS P8P67. Back in the day when I purchased them I also bought this RAM G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-17000CL9D-4GBXL which I did not use because I think it was either the frequency or the voltage (I think it was the voltage 1.6v) that had a high risk or incompatibility with the mobo/processor, in the end I purchased and used these instead Corsair Vengeance 8GB CML8GX3M2A1600C9.

Just today I found the old Ripjaws sticks that I never used and wondered if it would be safe to use them with the Corsair ones? I still have 2 RAM slots left in the mobo.

Also, If this is possible without any risks or incompatibility issues with the system do I need to make any special changes in the bios? Like lower the voltage to 1.5V or downclock the frequency, etc?
You would need to make everything identical; speeds, timings, voltages. It can be done but would probably be difficult. There's no guarantee making those things match would even work though.
Alright, took the plunge and started getting all the parts except the extra harddrive and the graphics card which can wait. Processor and SSD haven't arrived yet so just getting everything hooked up and cables tidied for now.

I decided to spray paint the replacement grill white to better match the case, wanted to use the grill instead of the plate to keep down the PC temperature better. Came out very well



Hopefully get all the parts monday, trying not to get excited as something has to go wrong. :D

Meanwhile been looking at the recommended use of the thermal paste, some exciting stuff. Haha Anyway going for the cross method based on results and ease. Not looking forward to the cpu cooler install though, fuck me that thing is huge.

Great job on the paint!

As far as thermal paste, I'm partial to the dot method. If you do the cross method make sure you don't over apply.
 

xBladeM6x

Member
Everybody stop and buy a gsync monitor right now

I would, if it weren't for the fact that I keep hearing about ALT+TAB crashing games, and games having FPS bugs with it / or just crash on startup.
________________________________________________________________________

Does anyone know where I can find blank black keycaps with the letter on the side of the key? WASD has blank keycaps, but none with the lettering on the sides.
 

Sil

Banned
I'm going to build a gaming HTPC which will be connected via displayport (or HDMI 2.0, not sure yet) to a Samsung HU75000 UHD for casual (controller preferred) games. However, I'll also be connecting the machine directly to a PC screen for my neckbeard needs like Crusader Kings and the likes. Not entirely sure if I want IPS or 144hz TN, but that's another discussion.

My biggest concern is noise production as it will be placed in the living room, so I'm trying to pick my components with this in mind. Any recommendations on this part would be greatly appreciated, as I haven't build a PC for years.

Currently I've picked the following:

- i5 4590
- Scythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev B
- Seasonic Platinum Series 520 Watt fanless
- Nexus Real Silent Fan, 120mm (2x)
- Grandia GD09 case
- 8GB Crucial Ballistix
- 256gb Crucial MX 100 SSD (2x)
- MSI H97 Guard Pro
- Asus Strix GTX970 4GB

Does anyone have experiences with this PSU? I've picked it because of good reviews and being fanless, which is obviously good for noise reduction. But I'll probably have to do something to get rid of the increased heat?
 
I would, if it weren't for the fact that I keep hearing about ALT+TAB crashing games, and games having FPS bugs with it / or just crash on startup.
________________________________________________________________________

Does anyone know where I can find blank black keycaps with the letter on the side of the key? WASD has blank keycaps, but none with the lettering on the sides.

I've tried looking for those too. The only place I could find that sold those were eBay. Barring that, I've only seen it on keyboards like the CM stealth. Just go balls out and get blank.

I'm going to build a gaming HTPC which will be connected via displayport (or HDMI 2.0, not sure yet) to a Samsung HU75000 UHD for casual (controller preferred) games. However, I'll also be connecting the machine directly to a PC screen for my neckbeard needs like Crusader Kings and the likes. Not entirely sure if I want IPS or 144hz TN, but that's another discussion.

My biggest concern is noise production as it will be placed in the living room, so I'm trying to pick my components with this in mind. Any recommendations on this part would be greatly appreciated, as I haven't build a PC for years.

Currently I've picked the following:

- i5 4590
- Scythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev B
- Seasonic Platinum Series 520 Watt fanless
- Nexus Real Silent Fan, 120mm (2x)
- Grandia GD09 case
- 8GB Crucial Ballistix
- 256gb Crucial MX 100 SSD (2x)
- MSI H97 Guard Pro
- Asus Strix GTX970 4GB

Does anyone have experiences with this PSU? I've picked it because of good reviews and being fanless, which is obviously good for noise reduction. But I'll probably have to do something to get rid of the increased heat?

Don't be afraid to go for a bigger cooler. That case looks like it supports up to 138mm. I'd probably recommend the Noctua NH-L12. Generally bigger air coolers will dissipate more heat so your fans don't have to kick up as high. Noctua also makes super quiet fans for the case too.

As far as PSU, I'd probably go for something that does have fans. There are plenty of PSUs that have a fanless mode for when the PSU isn't working hard.
 

Sil

Banned
Don't be afraid to go for a bigger cooler. That case looks like it supports up to 138mm. I'd probably recommend the Noctua NH-L12. Generally bigger air coolers will dissipate more heat so your fans don't have to kick up as high. Noctua also makes super quiet fans for the case too.

As far as PSU, I'd probably go for something that does have fans. There are plenty of PSUs that have a fanless mode for when the PSU isn't working hard.

Thanks, have put the Noctua NH-L12 on the shopping list. Wanted to go for a Mugen first, but that doesn't fit. This seems like a good choice due to the increased fan size.

With regards to a fanless PSU: not too concerned about low loads, but with an active cooled PSU I'm afraid to notice the fan a lot, whereas a fanless PSU wouldn't have this problem. Maybe I'm overstating the noise though, as I'll be sitting roughly 3 meters away from the HTPC ?
 
no to both, you can use the stock cooler (which comes with thermal paste already applied). you only need aftermarket cooling for overclocking.

I thought that was the case. Thanks for comfirming.

No you won't need either. Just use the stock cooler and stock paste. You should probably get a H81/H87/H97 board to save money since you're not overclocking, go 2x4GB for your RAM for dual channel, and upgrade to the 256GB MX100.

Thanks for the advice. The processor and mobo were a bundle deal on newegg for $220.

Why would you need an intel i5 and 8GB RAM for general computing?

Only the best for mom. Do you think I should go to 4GB instead?
 

Deepo

Member
Ok GAF, please help me choose.

I can get the following builds for the same amount of money, but which one should I pick?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($383.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($74.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Asus X99-A ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($247.50 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($312.35 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($429.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($349.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($349.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($194.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2542.76


As I said, I can get them for the same price. I guess another alternative would be the X79 build with SLI 970.

Which one should I pick? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
 

Addnan

Member
Ok GAF, please help me choose.

I can get the following builds for the same amount of money, but which one should I pick?





As I said, I can get them for the same price. I guess another alternative would be the X79 build with SLI 970.

Which one should I pick? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
I would take the 980sli over 5820k because all I do is game. 4790K is more than capable. Would only go 6 core if I needed for some media production or something. For gaming more graphics power is almost always the right answer.
 

Addnan

Member
Has been few months since I built something, so kinda excited. I don't recall ever receiving a PSU with this extra 24pin thing. What is it?
p9C3E8ll.jpg


Also, should have gone module. What the hell is the point of having three strands of Sata cables on a 500W.
wofzEa5l.jpg
 
Has been few months since I built something, so kinda excited. I don't recall ever receiving a PSU with this extra 24pin thing. What is it?
snip*

Also, should have gone module. What the hell is the point of having three strands of Sata cables on a 500W.
snip*

I believe the extra 24pin is an extender, in case the 24pin slot of your motherboard is far away and your PSU's stock 24pin cable is not long enough.
 

LilJoka

Member
Has been few months since I built something, so kinda excited. I don't recall ever receiving a PSU with this extra 24pin thing. What is it?
p9C3E8ll.jpg


Also, should have gone module. What the hell is the point of having three strands of Sata cables on a 500W.
wofzEa5l.jpg

It's a basic PSU power up tester. It shorts the PSU a la PSU paper clip test. It comes with such a PSU so you don't have to deal with installing a PSU into a small case to only find out it's DOA.
 

Deepo

Member
I would take the 980sli over 5820k because all I do is game. 4790K is more than capable. Would only go 6 core if I needed for some media production or something. For gaming more graphics power is almost always the right answer.

Thanks for the feedback!

I'm doing 90% gaming myself as well, so I'm inclined to agree with you. The counter argument I'm making is that I'm coming from a 3570K@4.4Ghz, and the 4790k might not be much of an upgrade really. I'm also scared that I might be bottlenecked by it in future games that utilize more threads. On the other hand, the 5820K is scary because it's much more important to get a chip with good overclocking capability to get to the performance I'd want, as single/dual core performance still is more important in most games. I also hate the fact that almost all the USB ports on the back of the ASUS X99-A is ASmedia and not Intel, but that's just a small thing I guess.
 
Thanks for the feedback!

I'm doing 90% gaming myself as well, so I'm inclined to agree with you. The counter argument I'm making is that I'm coming from a 3570K@4.4Ghz, and the 4790k might not be much of an upgrade really. I'm also scared that I might be bottlenecked by it in future games that utilize more threads. On the other hand, the 5820K is scary because it's much more important to get a chip with good overclocking capability to get to the performance I'd want, as single/dual core performance still is more important in most games. I also hate the fact that almost all the USB ports on the back of the ASUS X99-A is ASmedia and not Intel, but that's just a small thing I guess.

What's your current GPU?
 

Durante

Member
Ok GAF, please help me choose.

I can get the following builds for the same amount of money, but which one should I pick?





As I said, I can get them for the same price. I guess another alternative would be the X79 build with SLI 970.

Which one should I pick? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
The former is a much better choice.

CPU/Mainboard upgrades are complex and tedious. GPU upgrades are trivial. With the former build, and some mild OC, you'll be set CPU-wise for the next 6 years at least, even at the highest settings. That's not necessarily the case with the latter.

Comparatively, the difference between 970s and 980s is trivial, and you will probably want a GPU upgrade anyway 2 or 3 years down the line.
 

Prez

Member
Only the best for mom. Do you think I should go to 4GB instead?

Well something like AMD 5350 or an Intel Celeron with 4GB RAM runs just as smooth for browsing and multimedia, meaning you'd be very unlikely to be able to notice any performance difference for basic home use.

Just warning you about spending 100s of dollars more on something that wouldn't even make a difference.
 

kvk1

Member
I look forward to comparing my GTX 980 to the PS5/XB2 graphics.

I assume that's the time frame they'll be back in stock again.
 

xBladeM6x

Member
The former is a much better choice.

CPU/Mainboard upgrades are complex and tedious. GPU upgrades are trivial. With the former build, and some mild OC, you'll be set CPU-wise for the next 6 years at least, even at the highest settings. That's not necessarily the case with the latter.

Comparatively, the difference between 970s and 980s is trivial, and you will probably want a GPU upgrade anyway 2 or 3 years down the line.

This post made my i7-3770k feel insufficient. xD
 
Hiy guys, I was going to upgrade my old monitor Syncmaster 940mw with a new one: I found the recommended Eizo FG2421 for 390€ (I live in Italy) and I have a few questions:

  • I plan to connect to the new monitor a PS3 and x360 (other than my pc): Is the EIZO a good monitor for consoles?
  • Are there any other monitors with better features for a price range of 400-450€? I need one with at least 1 hdmi port for consoles.
 
When I get my new PC put together what's the best way to transfer hard drive data over? Should I just clone my drive, or can I hook up an Ethernet cord and use some ftp software?
 

LilJoka

Member
Thanks, have put the Noctua NH-L12 on the shopping list. Wanted to go for a Mugen first, but that doesn't fit. This seems like a good choice due to the increased fan size.

With regards to a fanless PSU: not too concerned about low loads, but with an active cooled PSU I'm afraid to notice the fan a lot, whereas a fanless PSU wouldn't have this problem. Maybe I'm overstating the noise though, as I'll be sitting roughly 3 meters away from the HTPC ?

That seasonic is perfectly fine, you won't need to adjust the case cooling to compensate for the fanless PSU. This PSU is literally a seasonic 1kw style PSU except since it's running half the watts, a fan isn't needed as the components are well over engineered.
 
In Canada

I really want to get a Desktop PC for under $ 1000 that's better than the next gen consoles...

I am STRUGGLING to find any decent deals after scouring the net for days.

It looks you need something like $1300(including taxes) to get anything remotely decent.

Can you guys point me to the right direction ? Everyone says you can destroy the PS4/XB1 with 700$...I find that impossible.

EDIT : I want to include prebuilt and build your self ideas.

Here's a little miniITX build i'm messing around with:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($181.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($112.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($194.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 250D Mini ITX Tower Case ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Plus 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $862.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-12 10:27 EDT-0400

Could reduce the RAM and put that towards an even better GPU or go 512GB on the Crucial SSD.
 

Ronabo

Member
Why is the entire world sold out of 970s???

Tell me about it. I just built this yesterday minus the GPU of course. Have no idea when I'll get one. I have one preordered at Amazon.

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master RR-T4-18PK-R1 70.0 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($69.99)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.99)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Micro Center)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($359.99)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Micro Center)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($15.99 @ Micro Center)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.99)
Keyboard: ROCCAT Isku FX Wired Gaming Keyboard ($79.99)
Mouse: ROCCAT Kone Pure Wired Laser Mouse ($49.99 @ Micro Center)
Total: $1230.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-09 21:08 EDT-0400[
 

bro1

Banned
no to both, you can use the stock cooler (which comes with thermal paste already applied). you only need aftermarket cooling for overclocking.




i have an air 540 as well and it's highly recommended. i would add one con is that there is no filter for the side psu vent.
If you buy a devils canyon, buy an aftermarket cooler. The stock cooler is dangerously inefficient.
 

LilJoka

Member
Here's a little miniITX build i'm messing around with:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($181.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($112.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($194.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 250D Mini ITX Tower Case ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Plus 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $862.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-12 10:27 EDT-0400

Could reduce the RAM and put that towards an even better GPU or go 512GB on the Crucial SSD.

Here's how I would maximise performance and future proofing.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($349.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 (White) Mini ITX Tower Case ($84.76 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($71.30 @ Newegg)
Total: $1041.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-12 10:37 EDT-0400

If you buy a devils canyon, buy an aftermarket cooler. The stock cooler is dangerously inefficient.

I wouldn't say that, Intel designed it to keep the CPU within spec. It's not dangerous, it can get loud that's about it.
 
Well something like AMD 5350 or an Intel Celeron with 4GB RAM runs just as smooth for browsing and multimedia, meaning you'd be very unlikely to be able to notice any performance difference for basic home use.

Just warning you about spending 100s of dollars more on something that wouldn't even make a difference.

Gotcha. Thanks for the advice.
 

AHA-Lambda

Member
Hey guys,

I took an old pc of mine from years back and tried to disassemble it and put it back together just so I can get the practice, I've never built a pc before.

I couldn't get all the cables back where they're supposed to go and one of the plastic heatsink locks bent >_<

Stupid question aside from that, when I buy the parts for my new rig will it come with all of the necessary cables or do I need to get them elsewhere too? What about screws? I know I still need to get myself some other amenities anyway like an anti-static strap, so is there anything else obvious I may have missed?

If anyone can offer any advice on my rig, my plan is here:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/2EF6FENGOH/

Couple other questions:

1) Is that motherboard ok? Will it last me long enough for any potential upgrades?
2) If I don't want to overclock is the stock fan that comes with the cpu enough? I shouldn't have to worry about cooling?
3) Is that case ok? Tbh, I don't want to spend much on a case, as long as everything will fit in it.
 
Hey guys,

I took an old pc of mine from years back and tried to disassemble it and put it back together just so I can get the practice, I've never built a pc before.

I couldn't get all the cables back where they're supposed to go and one of the plastic heatsink locks bent >_<

Stupid question aside from that, when I buy the parts for my new rig will it come with all of the necessary cables or do I need to get them elsewhere too? What about screws? I know I still need to get myself some other amenities anyway like an anti-static strap, so is there anything else obvious I may have missed?

If anyone can offer any advice on my rig, my plan is here:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/2EF6FENGOH/

Couple other questions:

1) Is that motherboard ok? Will it last me long enough for any potential upgrades?
2) If I don't want to overclock is the stock fan that comes with the cpu enough? I shouldn't have to worry about cooling?
3) Is that case ok? Tbh, I don't want to spend much on a case, as long as everything will fit in it.

There's no cpu on the list ?

Also I'd take faster memory - that 1600 CL10 will cost you a lot of frames in cpu limited places in games

And 2400 CL 10 is only 20 pounds more expensive which is nothing compared to what you pay for whole system.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007V9PZFI/
 

ekgrey

Member
Alright, took the plunge and started getting all the parts except the extra harddrive and the graphics card which can wait. Processor and SSD haven't arrived yet so just getting everything hooked up and cables tidied for now.

I decided to spray paint the replacement grill white to better match the case, wanted to use the grill instead of the plate to keep down the PC temperature better. Came out very well



Hopefully get all the parts monday, trying not to get excited as something has to go wrong. :D

Meanwhile been looking at the recommended use of the thermal paste, some exciting stuff. Haha Anyway going for the cross method based on results and ease. Not looking forward to the cpu cooler install though, fuck me that thing is huge.


damn i friggin' LOVE that case.
 

Deepo

Member
What's your current GPU?

GTX 690. Still a good card, but the 2GB VRAM is making it feel very long in the tooth. I also don't like the fact that I'm too reliant on good SLI profiles to get good performance now. SLI is great for pushing stuff like Cryengine to stupid levels, but it's not so great if you need a profile for almost any game. I'm also feeling that Nvidia has been dropping the ball a bit in regards to SLI support at launch lately, with Dead Rising 3, Shadow of Mordor and The Vanishing of Ethan Carter all lacking profiles. You can do some tweaking in Nvidia Inspector on all 3 to run SLI, but they don't work great, with the exception of TWOEC.

Considering waiting for 9xx models with more VRAM though. Don't want to be caught being unable to maximize textures even at 1080p again.

The former is a much better choice.

CPU/Mainboard upgrades are complex and tedious. GPU upgrades are trivial. With the former build, and some mild OC, you'll be set CPU-wise for the next 6 years at least, even at the highest settings. That's not necessarily the case with the latter.

Comparatively, the difference between 970s and 980s is trivial, and you will probably want a GPU upgrade anyway 2 or 3 years down the line.

Thanks for the feedback! I see you have a similar setup reading further back in the thread, and it helps hearing that you're happy with it. It also helps that I know that you know what you're talking about, so I'm leaning towards the X99 setup now.

1 more question:

x16/x8 PCIe Gen 3 should be good enough for SLI, right? I guess it's going to take something pretty special to saturate those lanes.
 

Durante

Member
1 more question:

x16/x8 PCIe Gen 3 should be good enough for SLI, right? I guess it's going to take something pretty special to saturate those lanes.
I'm far from an expert on SLI (I try to stay as far away from it as possible ;)) but the last benchmarks I saw didn't show any significant performance difference between 16 and 8 lanes.
 

Addnan

Member
Guys, I'm getting lost amongst all the options for motherboards now after seeing some advice on the Steam thread.

What is a good buy? I really don't know what to look for in a motherboard.

This is my plan for a rig: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/2EF6FENGOH/

How much do you want to spend. Nothing special about that motherboard. You can get the mpower or the mximus VII for that kind of money. edit; Now seeing sabertooth. Don't get that. Just a pretty board.
 

bro1

Banned
Here's how I would maximise performance and future proofing.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($349.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 (White) Mini ITX Tower Case ($84.76 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($71.30 @ Newegg)
Total: $1041.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-12 10:37 EDT-0400



I wouldn't say that, Intel designed it to keep the CPU within spec. It's not dangerous, it can get loud that's about it.
Have you tried it? I did and the temps were crazy hot
 
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