• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

Status
Not open for further replies.

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Your wireless repeater has wireless bridge function and extends your wireless range. What is the signal strength to the repeater?

What is your router? As I ask previously, did you test your wifi speed right next to your router?

The signal strength to the repeater is something like 40-50%.

My iPad get's like 25Mbps down when sitting right next to the router. The router is a Netgear that I got like last year.

Another thing I can't figure out is why the range on the 5Ghz network is so weak. You basically can't detect it unless you're on the same floor as the router. I even turned it from 300Mbps mode to 145Mbps mode.
 

MultiCore

Member
The signal strength to the repeater is something like 40-50%.

My iPad get's like 25Mbps down when sitting right next to the router. The router is a Netgear that I got like last year.

Another thing I can't figure out is why the range on the 5Ghz network is so weak. You basically can't detect it unless you're on the same floor as the router. I even turned it from 300Mbps mode to 145Mbps mode.

The higher frequency of 5ghz intrinsically means it will not be able to penetrate as well as 2.4ghz.
 

knitoe

Member
The signal strength to the repeater is something like 40-50%.

My iPad get's like 25Mbps down when sitting right next to the router. The router is a Netgear that I got like last year.

Another thing I can't figure out is why the range on the 5Ghz network is so weak. You basically can't detect it unless you're on the same floor as the router. I even turned it from 300Mbps mode to 145Mbps mode.
40-50% signal strength is kinda weak. You might have to use another repeater to increase the range or get a better router with longer range.

5GHz N range really sucks. On the other hand, 5GHz AC is much better.
 

Vhalyar

Member
Finally got my computer assembled and running, but I'm having issues with the picture output via HDMI.

I'm using a Gigabyte GTX 970 with the latest (344.48) drivers. DVI works fine, but when I try to use HDMI I get no signal. It's getting really frustrating because DVI is capping me to some shitty resolution. I have the old PC right here and HDMI is working fine, so it's not the cable or monitor :(
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
40-50% signal strength is kinda weak. You might have to use another repeater to increase the range or get a better router with longer range.

5GHz N range really sucks. On the other hand, 5GHz AC is much better.

How well would a power line adapter work in comparison?
 
I have joined the 1440p generation!

kNvsNmZ.jpg

Now I have a VG248QE that I'm not sure what to do with.
 

knitoe

Member
Finally got my computer assembled and running, but I'm having issues with the picture output via HDMI.

I'm using a Gigabyte GTX 970 with the latest (344.48) drivers. DVI works fine, but when I try to use HDMI I get no signal. It's getting really frustrating because DVI is capping me to some shitty resolution. I have the old PC right here and HDMI is working fine, so it's not the cable or monitor :(
What's your monitor resolution? Do you have a dual DVI cable?


How well would a power line adapter work in comparison?

If you don't have interference, it would be the second best option after hard wired. But, that's the question. You can't tell if you have that issue until you try.
 

Vhalyar

Member
What's your monitor resolution? Do you have a dual DVI cable?

I have a Dell U2711, currently set to 1680x1050 because anything higher than that and the picture is totally garbled. I can't find anything online to indicate why the HDMI would not work :(
 

axb2013

Member
Finally got my computer assembled and running, but I'm having issues with the picture output via HDMI.

I'm using a Gigabyte GTX 970 with the latest (344.48) drivers. DVI works fine, but when I try to use HDMI I get no signal. It's getting really frustrating because DVI is capping me to some shitty resolution. I have the old PC right here and HDMI is working fine, so it's not the cable or monitor :(

What's the monitor native resolution, above 1080p? I assume GPU has 2 DVI outputs, did you plug into DVI-D? Check monitor settings?
 
Another question, below is a picture of my hard drive trays. Obviously the SSD is to small to really fit. A friend said I could just lay the SSD down in the case itself and it would be fine, is that true? Sadly this case, HAF 922, apparently did have SSD trays I could have bought, but they seem to not sell them anymore. Looking at other converters, doesn't seem like any of them are quite right and would stay secured without adding some screws, which I want to avoid, so I can easily slide them out.

Could I just somehow secure it to the slide out tray and it would be fine? Could I use tape or some zip ties maybe?
I recently added a Crucial MX100 to my HAF922 case. Those trays have screw sites designed for SSDs, on the flat side. I just placed two screws and now SSD secured to slideout tray without any middlemen converters.
 

axb2013

Member
I have a Dell U2711, currently set to 1680x1050 because anything higher than that and the picture is totally garbled. I can't find anything online to indicate why the HDMI would not work :(

1440p, I have same res. If GPU has 2 DVI outputs, plug into DVI-D, if that doesn't work, you need a DVI-D cable.
 
Bought some ram 2-3 weeks ago but I'm pretty darn sure it has issues:

1- Computer won't post after ram is added.
2- If the computer posts: 2-3 hours down the line I might get a software crash(ie: windows 7's aero will crash)


I wanted to make sure that the issue was the ram:
Took the extra ram that I added out: ran 2 weeks without any issue.
Put the ram back in, ran memtest86 without reporting any errors.
Decided to run the pc only on the new ram: Booted flawlessly,
Updated my Bios. PC would not post after the initial setup.
Took out the new ram, put in my old ram, PC started posting again.
Works flawlessly again.

Guess MEMTEST86 ain't perfect.
 

Vhalyar

Member
1440p, I have same res. If GPU has 2 DVI outputs, plug into DVI-D, if that doesn't work, you need a DVI-D cable.

That worked. Then I had a closer look again and realized I was using the motherboard's HDMI socket, since there was a cover on the GTX's second row of connectors.

Third time I feel really stupid when dealing with this new PC today.
 

KingJolly

Banned
Guys is this a good PC for high level gaming? (How much would you give for these specs?)

CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-4790 3.60 GHz 8MB Intel Smart Cache LGA1150

CPU / Processor Cooling Fan: Intel Certified CPU Fan & Heatsink
Motherboard: ASRock B85M-ITX mITX w/ Display Port, HDMI, GbLAN, 1 Gen3 PCIe x16


RAM / System Memory: 8GB (4GBx2) DDR3/2133MHz Dual Channel Memory (ADATA XPG V3)

Video Card: AMD Radeon R9 270X 2GB GDDR5 PCIe 3.0 x16 Video Card (Single Card)

Power Supply: 800 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Certified Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready
Hard Drive: 1TB SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 32MB Cache 7200RPM HDD (Single Drive)
 

axb2013

Member
Bought some ram 2-3 weeks ago but I'm pretty darn sure it has issues:

1- Computer won't post after ram is added.
2- If the computer posts: 2-3 hours down the line I might get a software crash(ie: windows 7's aero will crash)


I wanted to make sure that the issue was the ram:
Took the extra ram that I added out: ran 2 weeks without any issue.
Put the ram back in, ran memtest86 without reporting any errors.
Decided to run the pc only on the new ram: Booted flawlessly,
Updated my Bios. PC would not post after the initial setup.
Took out the new ram, put in my old ram, PC started posting again.
Works flawlessly again.

Guess MEMTEST86 ain't perfect.

That's one of the oldest and most persistent problems. Even if you buy same OEM and exact same model, ram sticks won't work together. Easier to win a lottery than to have an old pair work with a new pair of sticks.
 

axb2013

Member
That worked. Then I had a closer look again and realized I was using the motherboard's HDMI socket, since there was a cover on the GTX's second row of connectors.

Third time I feel really stupid when dealing with this new PC today.

LOL, I made the exact same mistake 2 years ago.
 

garath

Member
MSI Gamer GTX 970 installed. No coil whine, super silent! Idle 30-35c, load 60-65c. Straight overclock to 1500Mhz core, 4000Mhz memory at stock 1.21v. Very happy.

Nice!!! That's a huge overclock. I got my Asus 970 to 1430 pretty stable but I couldnt bump the memory up for anything.

I love hearing no coil whine too. MSI has been top of my list for awhile. Just never in stock.
 

ekgrey

Member
i've had no coil whine with my Asus Strix, for what that's worth.

haven't attempted to OC yet. still need to tackle my 4670K...want to get that sorted first. (pitiful 3.4Ghz stock...)

I have joined the 1440p generation!



Now I have a VG248QE that I'm not sure what to do with.

maybe you should sell it?
to me?
 

kennah

Member
Guys is this a good PC for high level gaming? (How much would you give for these specs?)

CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-4790 3.60 GHz 8MB Intel Smart Cache LGA1150

CPU / Processor Cooling Fan: Intel Certified CPU Fan & Heatsink
Motherboard: ASRock B85M-ITX mITX w/ Display Port, HDMI, GbLAN, 1 Gen3 PCIe x16


RAM / System Memory: 8GB (4GBx2) DDR3/2133MHz Dual Channel Memory (ADATA XPG V3)

Video Card: AMD Radeon R9 270X 2GB GDDR5 PCIe 3.0 x16 Video Card (Single Card)

Power Supply: 800 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Certified Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready
Hard Drive: 1TB SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 32MB Cache 7200RPM HDD (Single Drive)
That's a pretty ridiculous build. The power supply is twice as powerful as it needs to be, especially since the motherboard only has one pcie slot.

Video card is pretty weak all around. And you really want a k series processor with a z series motherboard.

Ssds are also essential

How much are you paying and from where?
 
24 days from MSI recieving my motherboard to getting a new one in the mail. I was disappointed by the speed of their RMA process. Computer is back up and running, though, so that's good.

Damn dude, I've been without my desktop since Monday because I RMAed by GPU, and I'm having withdrawals. I would have had it today, but I had my replacement GPU sent to my uncles house and he's going to bring it over to my house tomorrow. The laptop that I've been using is a six year old Core 2 Duo that's showing it's age.
 
This would drive me crazy. Actually went through this with ASUS. Never again. It's why I try and always buy my motherboards from Microcenter or Frys from now on.

What do you mean Smokey? Do you buy some sort of extended warranty from them or what so that you can take it back to them for a new one? Tell me of your wise ways, please.
 

Smokey

Member
What do you mean Smokey? Do you buy some sort of extended warranty from them or what so that you can take it back to them for a new one? Tell me of your wise ways, please.

Yep. I always buy at least the 2 year warranty. If something goes wrong I take it right up the street and exchange it. If they don't have your product anymore, they give you a gift card with the full amount of the board. This is the situation I'm in with my Rampage IV Black Edition. Since they don't carry it I could take it in, get $450, and get a X99 board.
 
Yep. I always buy at least the 2 year warranty. If something goes wrong I take it right up the street and exchange it. If they don't have your product anymore, they give you a gift card with the full amount of the board. This is the situation I'm in with my Rampage IV Black Edition. Since they don't carry it I could take it in, get $450, and get a X99 board.

Interesting. Something to consider for my next build, especially now that I live in California where they collect taxes if I buy something from Amazon. It's about a 30 minute drive to Fry's and Microcenter for me. I always thought extended warranties were rip offs. I wouldn't do it for something like an EVGA GPU card, where EVGA has such great customer service and fast RMA's.
 
If I was wanting to run 6 monitors off of 2 nvidia GPUs, I know that I can't run them in SLI but it should still work with just the 2 GPUs in the PC. Looking at 2 970s to run 3 monitors each. I have a lot of experience with 3 monitors but not with more.
 

KingJolly

Banned
That's a pretty ridiculous build. The power supply is twice as powerful as it needs to be, especially since the motherboard only has one pcie slot.

Video card is pretty weak all around. And you really want a k series processor with a z series motherboard.

Ssds are also essential

How much are you paying and from where?

Was basically tinkering around here with the options.

The 800W is kinda overkill, but it comes as a free upgrade, lol, Haven't bought anything yet.
 

axb2013

Member
Was basically tinkering around here with the options.

The 800W is kinda overkill, but it comes as a free upgrade, lol, Haven't bought anything yet.

If you are in the USA or Canada, there are e-shops that will assemble your PC for you $50, provided you buy the parts from them. It's still more expensive than DIY because it's unlikely to land the best deals for all parts on the same website but cheaper than the pre built shops. Most of the shops typically charge you $1000 for a PC you could DIY for $800-850. The fact they want to charge people $20 for "mild" overclocking and $40 for "extreme" is a huge turnoff, even if one can still opt out of it.
 
Is there any way to not get a GPU to sputter about in 120hz mode? At 60 HZ it stays at around 30-32C but with 120hz+ it goes up to 42 and usually stays in the upper 30s when using chrome.
 

Koobion

Member
Are the upcoming 8GB versions of the 970/80 enticing anyone who already owns one to upgrade? For the most part, it's not really a huge benefit from my point of view, unless you're going for 4k across the board.

Anybody have a different opinion? Curious on your thoughts.
 

xBladeM6x

Member
Are the upcoming 8GB versions of the 970/80 enticing anyone who already owns one to upgrade? For the most part, it's not really a huge benefit from my point of view, unless you're going for 4k across the board.

Anybody have a different opinion? Curious on your thoughts.

Is it confirmed this is actually happening?
 

Smokey

Member
Interesting. Something to consider for my next build, especially now that I live in California where they collect taxes if I buy something from Amazon. It's about a 30 minute drive to Fry's and Microcenter for me. I always thought extended warranties were rip offs. I wouldn't do it for something like an EVGA GPU card, where EVGA has such great customer service and fast RMA's.

Yeah for GPUs (I only buy EVGA) I don't do it. Just for motherboards.
 

Koobion

Member
Is it confirmed this is actually happening?

I don't believe it's confirmed, no. The LinusTechTips' associated news channel on YouTube (NCIXcom) presented it as fact - presumably because the information originated from Sweclockers, who provided a great deal of information about the 900 series before it was officially revealed.

Upon further investigation, it's not confirmed. The video was misleading, as it's still being treated as rumor from their sources. I guess we'll see soon enough, since they're claiming that the cards will launch in November.
 

Carm

Member
I recently added a Crucial MX100 to my HAF922 case. Those trays have screw sites designed for SSDs, on the flat side. I just placed two screws and now SSD secured to slideout tray without any middlemen converters.

Thanks all for the responses about the SSD. I'll have to look at the drive tray more closely to see what you are talking about with the screws.
 

Dance Inferno

Unconfirmed Member
I'm looking at GTX 970 cards, and I'm wondering if there's a significant benefit to getting the higher-end version of a manufacturer's card versus the normal one? For example the Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 vs. the regular Gigabyte GTX 970, or the Zotac GTX 970 Amp! vs. the regular Zotac GTX 970, or the MSI GTX 970 Gaming vs. the regular MSI GTX 970.

If I'm planning to overclock the card anyway, does it matter which version I get? Should I spend ~$30 extra for the higher end version of one of these cards, or will the base model do?

Bumping this since I got no responses. Anyone have any tips?
 

G0DLIKE

Member
Hi guys, I'm looking to replace my 4 year old PC and was hoping for some input before making the order.

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/SamuraiPizzaDog/saved/9czp99

I don't upgrade often, so want this to last 3-4 years. I'm looking to keep the build black and red and really don't mind paying a bit extra to keep it somewhat cohesive. Really just want to know if there are any issues with what I'm looking at putting together or if there are any considerable upgrades or price drops looming? I can't find a MSI GTX 980 Gaming 4G currently and missed out by the skin of my teeth on one yesterday, but have a MSI Gaming 4G GTX 970 available locally, albeit overpriced. I don't know about the Corsair H105 CPU cooler. I really want this thing to be quit unless it's working hard. Maybe the PSU is overkill, but don't want to rule out a SLI config at some point. Any thoughts? Thanks!
 

G0DLIKE

Member
Bumping this since I got no responses. Anyone have any tips?

You'll get better cooling with a higher-end manufacturer's card vs. a reference looking model, which will help keep temps lower when overclocking. I think the only advantage with a reference looking model (other than price) is that it should exhaust more heat out of the case. This could be handy if your case temps are higher than desired.

I might be completely wrong, though. Bit of a beginner myself.
 

LilJoka

Member
Bumping this since I got no responses. Anyone have any tips?

MSI GTX 970 Gaming.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1516121/gtx-970-comparison-strix-vs-msi-gaming-vs-gigabyte-g1

Strix vs MSI vs G1 comparison there. MSI has the best compromise imo, best power delivery, good OOB power limit, and quiet. And pretty much everyone is hitting ~1500Mhz core with them.

Gigabyte Windforce OC has no backplate, and cooler is huge, so PCB sags. G1 has the backplate, more expensive and louder than the MSI Gamer. So for me MSI won it.

Nice!!! That's a huge overclock. I got my Asus 970 to 1430 pretty stable but I couldnt bump the memory up for anything.

I love hearing no coil whine too. MSI has been top of my list for awhile. Just never in stock.

This is the first MSI part ive bought, tend to avoid since RMA is slow in the UK! But im happy with it. Valley bench is low, like 63fps Ultra HD preset 1080p, GTX 780 managed 73fps, and 77fps at bench clocks. But in games its about 10-15% faster, runs cooler 65c vs 85c, and quieter. My ASIC quality is 79.8%! Can check that in GPUz.
 
If anyone remembers, I had an issue last week. I just put together my PC and was not seeing anything on the monitor when I booted it despite all my fans spinning up and power LEDs being on.

I guess it must have been my motherboard, I put a new one in just now and the bios showed up no problem. Now to install Windows. I just need to boot from a flash drive with the ISO on it, right?
 

axb2013

Member
If anyone remembers, I had an issue last week. I just put together my PC and was not seeing anything on the monitor when I booted it despite all my fans spinning up and power LEDs being on.

I guess it must have been my motherboard, I put a new one in just now and the bios showed up no problem. Now to install Windows. I just need to boot from a flash drive with the ISO on it, right?

Yes, you just need to select it as the boot device in BIOS. I'll patrol the thread for another half an hour or so, if you run into any issues post here.
 
Yes, you just need to select it as the boot device in BIOS. I'll patrol the thread for another half an hour or so, if you run into any issues post here.

Well, I just realized I didn't download the iso when I though I did earlier, so it's going to be a while still. I'm reading about the process now, is just having the ISO on the usb drive what I need, or is there some other setup I need to do to the drive?
 

mdsfx

Member
To anyone who owns the Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX 970:

Does this come with a back plate?
Any sagging of the pcba?
 

axb2013

Member
Well, I just realized I didn't download the iso when I though I did earlier, so it's going to be a while still. I'm reading about the process now, is just having the ISO on the usb drive what I need, or is there some other setup I need to do to the drive?

No, just make sure you format the USB drive before putting the ISO on it and make sure there is nothing else on it.
 

SScorpio

Member
Well, I just realized I didn't download the iso when I though I did earlier, so it's going to be a while still. I'm reading about the process now, is just having the ISO on the usb drive what I need, or is there some other setup I need to do to the drive?

You need to flag the partition on the drive as bootable. And then copy the extracted files from the ISO over to the USB drive, just copying the ISO on to the drive won't work.

Microsoft has a tool that will do the work for you. You just need to have the ISO and a USB drive. http://wudt.codeplex.com/
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom