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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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EVGA is sending me the new card tomorrow, so I'll have it Friday after sending the RMA card to them Monday. Not bad. Hope I don't have the same flashing black screen issue. Wish me luck PC Gaf!
 

Kvik

Member
Sent it back for a refund through Newegg RMA. Trying the Gigabyte G1 this time, but i know it's luck of the draw.

I can only vouch for my own G1 980 and confirm that all of its DP ports are 100% working.

I also tested it with using a DP to HDMI adapter to connect to my TV and it was working as well.
 

forrest

formerly nacire
And done! Was an incredibly fun build and while the cable management was tedious, it wasn't too bad overall. The biggest nitpicks I had were the build required the Dvd-RW so I installed the SSD under it so I could consolidate them to one SATA power cable. I just couldn't find a decent way to run them, so I sort of paired them up with the main line and the cpu power line. Also, there was only one case fan pin and one cpu fan pin on the mobo, so the additional case fan required me to run a molex from the psu. It hid well enough, but it was still another cable to deal with.

Time to install everything and get to overclocking / stress testing before shipping it off. This build definitely got me excited thinking about my own personal ITX build which I'm going to try and do in the very near future.

*sorry for such shit pics

caseclosedwxue6.jpg

casetopdhuph.jpg

caseleftmqujc.jpg

caserightr3uji.jpg
 
Okay. "Built" a new system a few months ago (just on paper) and made a few updates now.

CPU: Intel i5 4690K (Boxed) (205,60 € @ mindfactory.de)
MoBo: ASRock Z97 Pro4 (112,40 € @ mindfactory.de)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright True Spirit 120 M BW (24,19 € @ mindfactory.de)
GPU: 4096MB Asus GeForce GTX 970 Strix (347,85 € @ mindfactory.de)
RAM: 8GB Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3-1600 (62,39 € @ mindfactory.de)
HDD: 1000GB WD Blue WD10EZEX 64MB 3.5" (8.9cm) SATA 6Gb/s (46,59 € @ mindfactory.de)
SSD: 256GB Samsung 830 series (“recycled” from my current Notebook ;-))
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE (9,94 @ mindfactory.de)
PSU: 530 Watt be quiet! Pure Power L8 CM Modular 80+ Bronze (65,34 € @ mindfactory.de)
Case: Corsair Graphite 230T Midi Tower (67,85 € @ mindfactory.de)
Total: 942,15 €

Some questions:
1.) Any mistakes I made with my build? Like is the PSU still powerfull enough?
2.) Do I need additional thermal paste?
3.) Could be that I need a WLAN connection sometimes (e.g. for gaming with my brother in another room). Should I try a USB wifi adapter then or should I get a PCI card?

Anyone? Please? ^^
 

LilJoka

Member
Anyone? Please? ^^

You really should look at building an ITX machine since it looks like you are likely never to run dual GPUs.
Go for the MSI Gamer 970 as its better than the Asus board wise if you can.
Drop DVD Drive unless you are actually ripping DVD/CDs or playing them in this day and age. Windows can be installed via 8GB USB stick.
Cooler is fine, Hyper 212 Evo is another option if your shop sells it at similar price.

PSU is fine, although it runs a dual 12v Rail, 20A split, not sure how its split, so i always tend to go for PSUs with 40A+ on a single 12V rail, rated 80+ bronze as a minimum.
No, thermal paste will be included with the cooler.
If you go ITX most boards have onbaord Wifi. Otherwise yes youll want a PCI WLAN Adaptor.
 

mdsfx

Member
Anyone? Please? ^^
I am not a veteran PC builder, although Ive built a few of my own. All I can say about buying a PSU is that it's not a component you should skimp/save money on. Get a well-rated/reviewed PSU with more than enough juice for your set-up. 3 out of 4 issues I've had were failing or under-powered PSUs.
 

Darklord

Banned
I got my new PC today. Holy shit does that SSD transfer data fast. I'm loving it. It's super quiet too. What's the best way to benchmark a new PC these days? Would it still be 3Dmark?
 
Lian Li heard we like PCs, so they made a case where we can PC while we PC:
1_m.jpg

9_m.jpg

That's pretty cool, a lot of watercooling gromets on the window side tho, for whatever reason. Also who still needs that many 5,25" bays? Would've preferred those as hot-swap bays.

Edit: Isn't that just an updated version of the PC-D600?
 
I guess display port has more issues. Mine want displaying anything :(

I have the displayport issue. It is intermittent but common enough that I switched to DVI for now. However, they better address the issue because I'm in the market for a GSync monitor. I sent a support ticket days ago to find out if it's a result of defective hardware or a driver issue. I haven't been contacted back yet.
 

garath

Member
Hmm. I have my evga 970 FTW delivered today but I don't have any display port monitors to test. I don't intend on getting a gsync monitor until next year. I guess that's the advantage of evga's warranty. I'll just RMA it if needed.
 

Carm

Member
So, I'm about to purchase a Crucial MX100 512GB, is there any negative to buying one at that size. I see the systems have the 128, is it just a price thing? I thought about the 256 but wanted more buffer room for any more games than what I'll initially have installed(about 85 gigs worth to start).

Another question, below is a picture of my hard drive trays. Obviously the SSD is to small to really fit. A friend said I could just lay the SSD down in the case itself and it would be fine, is that true? Sadly this case, HAF 922, apparently did have SSD trays I could have bought, but they seem to not sell them anymore. Looking at other converters, doesn't seem like any of them are quite right and would stay secured without adding some screws, which I want to avoid, so I can easily slide them out.

Could I just somehow secure it to the slide out tray and it would be fine? Could I use tape or some zip ties maybe?

 
Is it possible to mount hdds in the optical bays of a Phanteks Enthoo Pro? I removed one drive cage but would like to take out both for better airflow.
 

Darklord

Banned
I'm having a problem with my new PC. I'm on Windows 7 and everything has been updated. However, I tried running a benchmark program and got this error "MSVCR110.dll Missing". I looked it up and found a MS help bit to fix it to install this. I did and it did nothing to fix it. Anyone know a fix for this? :\

I tried scanning with System File Checker and it says everything is ok too.
 
So, I'm about to purchase a Crucial MX100 512GB, is there any negative to buying one at that size. I see the systems have the 128, is it just a price thing? I thought about the 256 but wanted more buffer room for any more games than what I'll initially have installed(about 85 gigs worth to start).

Another question, below is a picture of my hard drive trays. Obviously the SSD is to small to really fit. A friend said I could just lay the SSD down in the case itself and it would be fine, is that true? Sadly this case, HAF 922, apparently did have SSD trays I could have bought, but they seem to not sell them anymore. Looking at other converters, doesn't seem like any of them are quite right and would stay secured without adding some screws, which I want to avoid, so I can easily slide them out.

Could I just somehow secure it to the slide out tray and it would be fine? Could I use tape or some zip ties maybe?

That's the best one spec-wise.

psWsiln.png


Most people see more value in spending less money for the lower capacity ssd and then use a cheap 1tb hdd for long term storage.

And yea there's no moving parts, so you could just tape it down.
 
So, I'm about to purchase a Crucial MX100 512GB, is there any negative to buying one at that size. I see the systems have the 128, is it just a price thing? I thought about the 256 but wanted more buffer room for any more games than what I'll initially have installed(about 85 gigs worth to start).

Another question, below is a picture of my hard drive trays. Obviously the SSD is to small to really fit. A friend said I could just lay the SSD down in the case itself and it would be fine, is that true? Sadly this case, HAF 922, apparently did have SSD trays I could have bought, but they seem to not sell them anymore. Looking at other converters, doesn't seem like any of them are quite right and would stay secured without adding some screws, which I want to avoid, so I can easily slide them out.

Could I just somehow secure it to the slide out tray and it would be fine? Could I use tape or some zip ties maybe?
As per the previous post, go for the bigger one of you can and want the space.
The lower capacity ones are slower than rivals, though only really for sequential writes I believe.

I've just used electrical tape on mine for the moment, though I plan to get a new case next year, just waiting on the right mATX to come along such as an updated ft03.
 

Dance Inferno

Unconfirmed Member
I'm looking at GTX 970 cards, and I'm wondering if there's a significant benefit to getting the higher-end version of a manufacturer's card versus the normal one? For example the Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 vs. the regular Gigabyte GTX 970, or the Zotac GTX 970 Amp! vs. the regular Zotac GTX 970, or the MSI GTX 970 Gaming vs. the regular MSI GTX 970.

If I'm planning to overclock the card anyway, does it matter which version I get? Should I spend ~$30 extra for the higher end version of one of these cards, or will the base model do?
 

mdsfx

Member
I'm looking at GTX 970 cards, and I'm wondering if there's a significant benefit to getting the higher-end version of a manufacturer's card versus the normal one? For example the Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 vs. the regular Gigabyte GTX 970, or the Zotac GTX 970 Amp! vs. the regular Zotac GTX 970, or the MSI GTX 970 Gaming vs. the regular MSI GTX 970.

If I'm planning to overclock the card anyway, does it matter which version I get? Should I spend ~$30 extra for the higher end version of one of these cards, or will the base model do?
I would like to know this too!
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
3874036495.png


This goddamn wi-fi continues to piss me off. Trust me, if I could afford to run 300ft (100m) of CAT-5 through my house I would do it, but I can't, so I gotta deal with my main gaming computer being a whole floor down from the router and modem, and am trying to make the best of the situation.

This network is currently 25Mbps down, but usually this wi-fi setup get's me around 6Mbps down. 12 on a good day, and that's with the PC connected to a repeater (through CAT-5). After switching to channel 6 for a bit I was actually able to get the full bandwidth for a while, but unfortunately the wired connection at the base of the network cuts in and out, maybe because there are like six other networks nearby using channel 6. On channel 1 I think wi-fi devices are at a consistent 12Mbps down. This is fine for web browsing, but it's unacceptable if I'm going to continue buying games on Steam, especially AAA games. This is a big reason why I bought a disc drive when I built my PC.

Another problem I have is, my wireless PCI-e card basically can't hold a consistent signal, probably because its placement at the back of the computer sits in a corner. Does anyone here know about high-gain antennas for wi-fi cards? Preferably the kind that involve a cord wrapping around to the front of the PC

Lastly, part of the problem might be the modem itself. I think my ISP actually upgraded my speed some time ago. But if they did, then I haven't felt the effects because my modem is a 12-year-old model. I'm hoping that changing what the whole network tops out at might also change the fraction of it I can get over wi-fi.
 

knitoe

Member
3874036495.png


This goddamn wi-fi continues to piss me off. Trust me, if I could afford to run 300ft (100m) of CAT-5 through my house I would do it, but I can't, so I gotta deal with my main gaming computer being a whole floor down from the router and modem, and am trying to make the best of the situation.

This network is currently 25Mbps down, but usually this wi-fi setup get's me around 6Mbps down. 12 on a good day, and that's with the PC connected to a repeater (through CAT-5). After switching to channel 6 for a bit I was actually able to get the full bandwidth for a while, but unfortunately the wired connection at the base of the network cuts in and out, maybe because there are like six other networks nearby using channel 6. On channel 1 I think wi-fi devices are at a consistent 12Mbps down. This is fine for web browsing, but it's unacceptable if I'm going to continue buying games on Steam, especially AAA games. This is a big reason why I bought a disc drive when I built my PC.

Another problem I have is, my wireless PCI-e card basically can't hold a consistent signal, probably because its placement at the back of the computer sits in a corner. Does anyone here know about high-gain antennas for wi-fi cards? Preferably the kind that involve a cord wrapping around to the front of the PC

Lastly, part of the problem might be the modem itself. I think my ISP actually upgraded my speed some time ago. But if they did, then I haven't felt the effects because my modem is a 12-year-old model. I'm hoping that changing what the whole network tops out at might also change the fraction of it I can get over wi-fi.
What's your wifi setup?

Instead of an wireless PCI-e card, use a wireless bridge instead. Generally, they get better signal and you can place it wherever you want.

Did you test your wifi internet speed with a wifi device next to your router? You can use a laptop, tablet, smartphone and etc.
 
good priceon a 260x for Canadians looking to get in on the low end of PC gaming. $97 after taxes shipping and rebates is pretty good! Probably not worth buying two for Crossfire but if you already have one it definitely would be.
 
Guys, I was mseeing with my monitor buttons and now it changed to DVI and says it has no signal. The screen is black and whenever I restart he monitor or PC, the screen will always be black. How do I change it back to HDMI?
 

LilJoka

Member
MSI Gamer GTX 970 installed. No coil whine, super silent! Idle 30-35c, load 60-65c. Straight overclock to 1500Mhz core, 4000Mhz memory at stock 1.21v. Very happy.
 

knitoe

Member
Guys, I was mseeing with my monitor buttons and now it changed to DVI and says it has no signal. The screen is black and whenever I restart he monitor or PC, the screen will always be black. How do I change it back to HDMI?
Your monitor manual should tell you how to select another input. If you don't have one on hand, google for it.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
What's your wifi setup?

Instead of an wireless PCI-e card, use a wireless bridge instead. Generally, they get better signal and you can place it wherever you want.

Did you test your wifi internet speed with a wifi device next to your router? You can use a laptop, tablet, smartphone and etc.

Right now my PC is attached to a wireless repeater (Netgear wn2000rptv2). I don't know if that's the same thing.
 

knitoe

Member
Right now my PC is attached to a wireless repeater (Netgear wn2000rptv2). I don't know if that's the same thing.
Your wireless repeater has wireless bridge function and extends your wireless range. What is the signal strength to the repeater?

What is your router? As I ask previously, did you test your wifi speed right next to your router?
 

tarheel91

Member
24 days from MSI recieving my motherboard to getting a new one in the mail. I was disappointed by the speed of their RMA process. Computer is back up and running, though, so that's good.
 

knitoe

Member
24 days from MSI recieving my motherboard to getting a new one in the mail. I was disappointed by the speed of their RMA process. Computer is back up and running, though, so that's good.
Wow. I don't know what I would do without my computer even for a few days let alone 24. MSI didn't give you the option for cross shipping?
 

tarheel91

Member
Wow. I don't know what I would do without my computer even for a few days let alone 24. MSI didn't give you the option for cross shipping?

Nope. My suspicion though is that the BIOS issue that killed my motherboard was unresolved at the time of me shipping it back. The new one (it's brand new, not refurbished) has a brand spanking new BIOS version.

I have another computer with a 290 and 3570k, so while incovenient, it wasn't a huge deal. The 290 wasn't quite powerful enough at 3440x1440, though.
 

tarheel91

Member
Man, building a PC is so overwhelming and the OP is pretty dense. I don't really know where to start.

Fill out the form and we'll lend a helping hand picking out parts.

The actual process of putting a PC together is like putting lego blocks together. Very simple.
 

LilJoka

Member
Man, building a PC is so overwhelming and the OP is pretty dense. I don't really know where to start.

There is a small questionnaire in the OP, if you fill that out we can help pick out the best parts for your usage.

In terms of the actual building, check out youtube videos, after a watching a few youll see its a lot of the same. Its always daunting at first, but a little bit of research will give you plenty of confidence, i did this when i was 16 lol.
 

nelchaar

Member
There is a small questionnaire in the OP, if you fill that out we can help pick out the best parts for your usage.

In terms of the actual building, check out youtube videos, after a watching a few youll see its a lot of the same. Its always daunting at first, but a little bit of research will give you plenty of confidence, i did this when i was 16 lol.

Fill out the form and we'll lend a helping hand picking out parts.

The actual process of putting a PC together is like putting lego blocks together. Very simple.

Thanks guys. I really don't know much about putting a PC together but I really want to get a gaming PC. I'll need pretty much everything, including a monitor, mouse, keyboard. Heck, even a computer desk!
 

Smokey

Member
24 days from MSI recieving my motherboard to getting a new one in the mail. I was disappointed by the speed of their RMA process. Computer is back up and running, though, so that's good.

This would drive me crazy. Actually went through this with ASUS. Never again. It's why I try and always buy my motherboards from Microcenter or Frys from now on.
 

tarheel91

Member
Thanks guys. I really don't know much about putting a PC together but I really want to get a gaming PC. I'll need pretty much everything, including a monitor, mouse, keyboard. Heck, even a computer desk!

You can still use part of the form, then:

Budget: Price Range + Country

When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?

Will you be overclocking?: Your answer is yes. It's the easiest part of the whole process.

This would drive me crazy. Actually went through this with ASUS. Never again. It's why I try and always buy my motherboards from Microcenter or Frys from now on.

Lesson learned, for sure. I bought my monitor at Microcenter which made returning it very easy. I would have bought my motherboard at microcenter, but they were sold out of the one I wanted and I didn't want to wait.

Edit: Speaking of monitors, the curved 21:9 LG screen is in stock at Microcenter. Here I come! Hopefully I can avoid backlight bleed.
 
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