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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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So if my friend wants to get a new GTX 970 but isn't sure if his psu can handle it. What's the worse case scenario if the psu can't handle it. There won't be any damage done to the components right?

Also could you guys recommend a new psu for a GTX 970, looking for mid range price but he is a little bit frugal. EVGA500B sufficient?
 
Hey yall! Just popping in for some advice some cards. These are all similar cards, but of different manufacturers. Which manufacture does ye think trustful? And also... how do you think this card would hold up against Star Citizen?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJNQ99U/?tag=neogaf0e-20

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202112&cm_re=R9_280-_-14-202-112-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

edit: Scratching that, thinking I'm just gonna pick up a GTX 760 4GB from EVGA. It's a bit more cash but I think it'll be worth it in the long run.
 

LilJoka

Member
So if my friend wants to get a new GTX 970 but isn't sure if his psu can handle it. What's the worse case scenario if the psu can't handle it. There won't be any damage done to the components right?

Also could you guys recommend a new psu for a GTX 970, looking for mid range price but he is a little bit frugal. EVGA500B sufficient?

What is his PSU model?

A PSU that isn't very good and under powered can fail badly and take out other components with it.
 

Moobabe

Member
New graphics card installed and I solved my driver crashing issue.

However - I now have really faint lines all over my screen (they're especially apparent on whites.) They don't appear in safe mode though.

I'm also getting games crashing to desktop and the occasional PC lock - which sucks because I then have to restart the machine at my tower and I don't get any error dump so I can't see what might be the problem.

I've tried running Who Crashed but it doesn't recognise any crashes in the past week.

Can anyone help?

Edit

When I go to "Driver Details" on Device Manager I get...

"Provider: Unknown
File Version: Unknown
Copyright: Unknown
Digital Signer: Not digitally signed"

That doesn't seem right
 
What is his PSU model?

A PSU that isn't very good and under powered can fail badly and take out other components with it.

Well... This is why I asked here because while the models 'power' is sufficient I don't trust it because it's an off brand. Winpower RP500
So don't risk it?
 

axb2013

Member
Got any ideas what could be the issue?

The amperage delivery on the rails, efficiency, voltage regulation/spiking, operating temperature, capacitors used...

These days the lower end PSU's are better than they used to be and efficiency standards expose units that used to sneak onto the market, max power output alone doesn't say much about the PSU. Which one is it?
 
Why are older computer parts sometimes more expensive than newer and better counterparts? For example i7-3930K is more expensive than i7-5930K on Newegg.
 

axb2013

Member
Why are older computer parts sometimes more expensive than newer and better counterparts? For example i7-3930K is more expensive than i7-5930K on Newegg.

Artificially inflated to push newer parts. The title of the thread says "2500K will run Witcher 3" but the retail chain doesn't want you to know that.
 
I bought NBA 2k15 for the PC and now my PC feels outdated, so now I'm eying a GTX 970. My current GPU is a GTX 560Ti. It runs the game at mid-to-high settings. What kind of improvement am I looking at?

I also have a i5 2500k @ 3.3Ghz. I haven't OC'd it cause I was lazy to buy and install a heatsink. Would it be safe to OC it now, despite it being 2-3 years old?

I also want an SSD... fuhh I might as well just build a new one and hand this PC down, haha.
 

The Llama

Member
I bought NBA 2k15 for the PC and now my PC feels outdated, so now I'm eying a GTX 970. My current GPU is a GTX 560Ti. It runs the game at mid-to-high settings. What kind of improvement am I looking at?

I also have a i5 2500k @ 3.3Ghz. I haven't OC'd it cause I was lazy to buy and install a heatsink. Would it be safe to OC it now, despite it being 2-3 years old?

I also want an SSD... fuhh I might as well just build a new one and hand this PC down, haha.

Buy the 970, overclock your CPU, and buy an SSD (and install Windows on it!) and your computer will feel brand new.

Really, you don't even need the SSD but it will make a huge difference outside of games.
 

knitoe

Member
I bought NBA 2k15 for the PC and now my PC feels outdated, so now I'm eying a GTX 970. My current GPU is a GTX 560Ti. It runs the game at mid-to-high settings. What kind of improvement am I looking at?

I also have a i5 2500k @ 3.3Ghz. I haven't OC'd it cause I was lazy to buy and install a heatsink. Would it be safe to OC it now, despite it being 2-3 years old?

I also want an SSD... fuhh I might as well just build a new one and hand this PC down, haha.
Yes, it's still fine to OC 2500K to 4.4-4.6GHz. Make sure to install a aftermarket cpu cooler.

And, you need a SSD. It makes a huge difference in how much more response and snappy in Windows / programs.
 

appaws

Banned
I bought NBA 2k15 for the PC and now my PC feels outdated, so now I'm eying a GTX 970. My current GPU is a GTX 560Ti. It runs the game at mid-to-high settings. What kind of improvement am I looking at?

I also have a i5 2500k @ 3.3Ghz. I haven't OC'd it cause I was lazy to buy and install a heatsink. Would it be safe to OC it now, despite it being 2-3 years old?

I also want an SSD... fuhh I might as well just build a new one and hand this PC down, haha.

You have a super clear and great couple of updates to make and your system will be kicking ass....no need to start over and hand it down....

Get a CPU cooler and OC that CPU....it's a great overclocker. Grab a 970 and an SSD and get your OS on there. It will be awesome.
 

LilJoka

Member
Well... This is why I asked here because while the models 'power' is sufficient I don't trust it because it's an off brand. Winpower RP500
So don't risk it?

Can't even find the manufactures specifications but looks like 2x20A 12v rails. I wouldn't trust it, I don't even think it's bronze rated.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
If you don't have a AC router, you won't have AC wifi. What's the make and model of your router?

To extend your 5GHz range, you will need to get a 5GHz capable repeater. If none of your devices can connect to 5GHz outside of the room with the router, getting a 5GHz might not be the best option. I would recommend you try powerline first.

Just tried powerline, and it isn't really an improvement at all. The connection is more consistent, but the bandwidth is basically the same. I only bought a 500Mbps powerline adapter, but the bandwidth cut off from that shouldn't be THIS deep.

3886989797.png
 

LilJoka

Member
Just tried powerline, and it isn't really an improvement at all. The connection is more consistent, but the bandwidth is basically the same. I only bought a 500Mbps powerline adapter, but the bandwidth cut off from that shouldn't be THIS deep.

3886989797.png


That's around 140mbps which depending on the exact model of power line, is kind of expected. Only the top power line adapters with gigabit ports are getting close to 2-300mbps. Internal wiring also makes a difference.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
That's around 140mbps which depending on the exact model of power line, is kind of expected. Only the top power line adapters with gigabit ports are getting close to 2-300mbps. Internal wiring also makes a difference.

I'm not trying to get 2-300. I'm just trying to get 50, or at least something above 20Mbps. That's the speed I'm paying my ISP for, and currently I can basically only get it through ethernet. I'm just surprised my bandwidth got cut all the way down to 16.
 

Kilrogg

paid requisite penance
My company is thinking of buying a new computer for one of the employees who does a bit of video/image editing (she uses Photoshop, Illustrator and After Effects) and general stuff.

Requirements:
Budget: €600 (France)
Main Use: General usage (5), Video/Image editing (3)
Monitor Resolution: no monitor needed, got a 1080p one
Will you be overclocking?: No
CPU: whatever's good for video/image editing
Mobo: anything, really
GPU: anything that's good for video/image, no gaming
RAM: 8GB (16GB if budget allows)
SSD: better if there is one, but not absolutely needed.
HDD: 1TB
Keyboard: buying a Logitech Comfort K290 (roughly €30)
Mouse: anything decent with 2 buttons and a wheel (with a cord)
PSU: anything that can make the whole thing run and won't crap out randomly
Case: any decent budget case will do

I know that €600 is not much for image/video editing, but this is just to give a general idea of what the computer is going to be used for. Plus I don't know exactly what's good for that kind of usage (apart from lots of RAM). What do I want in priority apart from RAM? For instance, is a quad-core CPU needed?

[EDIT] If Photoshop/Illustrator/After Effects is installed on an SSD and the files are on the HDD, is the speed gain significant still? If not, scratch the SSD altogether.

Anyone?
 

LilJoka

Member
I'm not trying to get 2-300. I'm just trying to get 50, or at least something above 20Mbps. That's the speed I'm paying my ISP for, and currently I can basically only get it through ethernet. I'm just surprised my bandwidth got cut all the way down to 16.

Mbps =/= MBps
200Mbps = ~20MBps.

As I said only top adapters are hitting those speeds.

A blu ray bitrate is about 40mbps or 4MBps. So your adaptor could stream a blu ray ISO.

Edit
My mistake 16mbps is well off. Try a different wall socket, try the one right next to the paired plug. Try another PC if possible.

I'm using tp link wifi power line 500mbps and getting 50mbps off it.
 

Addnan

Member
That's around 140mbps which depending on the exact model of power line, is kind of expected. Only the top power line adapters with gigabit ports are getting close to 2-300mbps. Internal wiring also makes a difference.
huh? The speedtest is showing 16Mbs. Small b. bits.
 

Death³

Banned
Hi,

this is my PC
- GeForce GTX 560 OC
- AMD Phenom II X4 955
- GA-970A-UD3 (AM3+)
- Straight Power E8 600W
- Elite 310
- Silent Wings PWM
- 2 x DIMM 4 GB DDR3-1333

Last week I retired my GTX 560 for an MSI GeForce GTX 970 Gaming 4G. In games that ran well in low settings in the past I can now ramp up pretty much everything without the framerate getting worse. When I look at scenes with greater complexity like towards the middle of an island in AC4 Black Flag or outdoors in Crysis 3, I get frame rate drops. That's obviously the CPU not keeping up with GPU and not setting up scenes fast enough. So I am looking in replacing my CPU as well.

Now I am prepared to spend the money for an Intel Core i5-4690K if I have to but that means I will also have to switch my mainboard so that it will probably cost me more than 300€. Now I read constantly that AMD CPUs are bad bad bad but I don't see any reasoning. Can someone explain or provide a link? I find it hard to believe that I can't save a little money and the headache of switching mainboards and still have comparable results by going the AMD route given that I already have the mainboard.
 

axb2013

Member
For gaming I prefer 16:10, but I would rather go 21:9 than 3 monitors. 3 monitors are great for work but far from ideal in entertainment IMO.
 
The amperage delivery on the rails, efficiency, voltage regulation/spiking, operating temperature, capacitors used...

These days the lower end PSU's are better than they used to be and efficiency standards expose units that used to sneak onto the market, max power output alone doesn't say much about the PSU. Which one is it?

OK here's my setup:

Core I5 2500k CPU Running stock@ 3.3 GHz
Main Board: Asus P8P67
Ram 8 gb ddr3-1333
GPU: Swapped a MSI Geforce 560 TI twin Frozr 2 1gb for a Asus Strix 970 GTX.
Drives:
1- Samsung 840 Pro SSD
2- WD Caviar Black 1tb HDD
3- Basic Asus DVD Burner.


Running Off a OCZ stealth X Stream 2 600W PSU.

What could be the bottleneck that's causing that "lag" in the start up of windows.
Programs are just as snappy to load but the startup concerns me.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Mbps =/= MBps
200Mbps = ~20MBps.

As I said only top adapters are hitting those speeds.

A blu ray bitrate is about 40mbps or 4MBps. So your adaptor could stream a blu ray ISO.

Edit
My mistake 16mbps is well off. Try a different wall socket, try the one right next to the paired plug. Try another PC if possible.

I'm using tp link wifi power line 500mbps and getting 50mbps off it.

I'm using the closest possible outlets to my router and the PC I'm trying to connect.
 

axb2013

Member
OK here's my setup:

Core I5 2500k CPU Running stock@ 3.3 GHz
Main Board: Asus P8P67
Ram 8 gb ddr3-1333
GPU: Swapped a MSI Geforce 560 TI twin Frozr 2 1gb for a Asus Strix 970 GTX.
Drives:
1- Samsung 840 Pro SSD
2- WD Caviar Black 1tb HDD
3- Basic Asus DVD Burner.


Running Off a OCZ stealth X Stream 2 600W PSU.

What could be the bottleneck that's causing that "lag" in the start up of windows.
Programs are just as snappy to load but the startup concerns me.

The change started and happens only with the new GPU? Have you made any changes to boot order in BIOS or added new drives, specifically USB ones? Have you tried the old GPU again, does the issue persist with that one?
 
The change started and happens only with the new GPU? Have you made any changes to boot order in BIOS or added new drives, specifically USB ones? Have you tried the old GPU again, does the issue persist with that one?
I'll double check but besides the new card, no ... nothing. which is odd.

If I remember correct this PSU was nicely rated, Anybody hear anything against those PSU's?
 

mdsfx

Member
Anyone need a brandnew 6 ft, gold-plated displayport cable for $10 shipped? I bought one from Amazon, not realizing I already had one...
 

taoofjord

Member
The background:
My current gaming desktop that a friend put together for me 3 years back has some kind of electrical issue. As I understand it, it could have something to do with some defect in the case (name listed below) but it could be something else entirely. Anyway, I had no problems with the desktop for the first year or so. Then, once in a blue moon it would reboot. It took me until recently to figure out that it would usually happen if I was walking near the tower or if I touched it, (even if I didn't feel a shock). It happened more frequently over the span of a few weeks until it stopped turning on entirely. I took it to some local repair shop and was told the motherboard died. After buying a new one and being told the problem was fixed it quickly died a week later.

I'd like to mostly start fresh with a new desktop dedicated to gaming. A new case, PSU, motherboard, GPU, etc. I've got my eyes on the GTX970 and Intel Core i5-4690.

I've never built a computer before and know very little about this sort of thing but I'm willing to give it a shot as long as I can get some help on understanding what went wrong with my current desktop and how I can avoid it happening again. I'd appreciate it if someone could help me put together a PCPartPicker list.

Current specs:
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz LGA
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL
Motherboard: Biostar TP67XE (B3) ATX Intel
GPU: EVGA GTX570
PSU: Antec High Current Gamer Series HCG-750
Case: Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
HDD: A 1TB HD

I also recently purchased this on sale, but never installed it once the motherboard died:
• Samsung 830 Series 2.5-Inch 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-7PC256B/WW

Budget:
$1000-$1300, USA

Main Use:
Hardcore gaming. I will be buying the Oculus Rift, so I want to make sure I can run upcoming games at ultra and above 60FPS.

I am also looking to make (2D) iOS games and apps once this is up and running. By the time I am able to make anything in 3D, if I ever get to that point, I'd probably be on a new desktop anyway.

Monitor Resolution:
My monitor is a Dell IPS with a resolution of 1920x1200 and I'll likely be sticking with this monitor for a few more years.

Looking to reuse any parts?:
Any from the above that make sense. Obviously the Samsung SSD should be great for the new build. Same goes for the 8GB of G.Skill RAM.

When will you build?:
I'd like to have this shipped and put together by the end of the month.

Will you be overclocking?:
Maybe. :)
 
I don't like bezels either. Give me a 30-32" 4k 144fps monitor in 3-5 years @ Ultra Settings on a Single GPU card and I'll be happy. Of course I'll always have a 2nd or 3rd monitor for other things, but I prefer a single monitor for actual gaming.
 
Is this the right area to ask for help on protecting my PC? I have a pretty strong surge protector behind my PC but I get a lot of surges/brownouts where I live because I'm at the back end of my neighborhood on the end of the feeder line. Can GAF help me get something with more advanced protection? Seems logical I should spend a little money on such an expensive setup to protect it. I was thinking of getting a UPS so I can save data and properly shut my PC down but they all seem to have weak surge protection? But they also seem to give protection surge protectors can't in things like brownouts.

What's GAF's recommendation? Do they have something better than UPS out there that gives great protection for everything? I see the APC UPS on Amazon have only around 350 Joules protection on surges. That seems weak. I've been thinking of getting one now that we're heading into winter and cold fronts regularly bring surges here.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
^Not an expert but at work we use the tall APC UPS ~$130 for workstations which have worked. Dunno much more than that.

Zalman is kill
 
For gaming I prefer 16:10, but I would rather go 21:9 than 3 monitors. 3 monitors are great for work but far from ideal in entertainment IMO.

I always preferred 16:10 for everything, but after going from a 16:10 24" to a 16:9 1440p 27" I can't say I miss it, I don't feel like I'm missing any real estate at this size and resolution
 
Hey all,

I'm looking for a help on buying a new laptop for a friend of mine. I know this is the "Build a PC Thread" but does anyone have any current recommendations on a good laptop deal around $900-1200 USD?
 

Damerman

Member
individually sleeved internal power cables... can i get away with getting BitFenix, or should i invest in better brands like EVGA or corsair?
 
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