Damerman
Member
sheesh... I didn't know it was that severe. I don't want stock cables though. Does it cause like electrical instability, or will they just not fit into grooves and locks?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
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sheesh... I didn't know it was that severe. I don't want stock cables though. Does it cause like electrical instability, or will they just not fit into grooves and locks?
No it didn't. I'm connecting directly to the motherboard. The pc will boot up first then turn off immediately. It boots up again then the DRAM red light comes on.
I tried with no ram in and the red light still comes on.
I'm so tired, I spent the whole day trying to get this to work. I'll dismantly everything tomorrow and just try again.
I just hope all the components are fine and it's just a mistake.
xBladeM6x
Member
The only other thing I can think of, is that the CPU Power Cable at the top isn't plugged in from the PSU, the CPU Fan isn't plugged in, or the fan isn't making contact with the CPU. Other than that, it might just be a motherboard needing to be RMA'd. I'd give it a full disassemble though, like you said.
OrlanisWorks
Banned
Well that is awesome. Thank you so much for your knowledge and stuff, man! Manufacture website says 750w. They just saying that for the sake of having three fans or something? I'm not gonna be overclocking anything. I just wanna be careful, ya know?
Yeah, maybe just a few people having troubles.
I dont know much about sapphire since I've never bought anything of theirs before. Looks like a good card though.
Well that is awesome. Thank you so much for your knowledge and stuff, man! Manufacture website says 750w. They just saying that for the sake of having three fans or something? I'm not gonna be overclocking anything. I just wanna be careful, ya know?
They say it because some people have very shit PSU that says they can output 750W but in reality only under the most perfect lab conditions can they ever get near that.
Well that is awesome. Thank you so much for your knowledge and stuff, man! Manufacture website says 750w. They just saying that for the sake of having three fans or something? I'm not gonna be overclocking anything. I just wanna be careful, ya know?
Yeah, maybe just a few people having troubles.
I dont know much about sapphire since I've never bought anything of theirs before. Looks like a good card though.
The PSU recommendations are always greatly overstated. It's a combination of them not being able to say whether you've got a good, efficient PSU or a shitty one and them wanting to cover their asses in case someone does something crazy.
Best way to judge how much wattage your computer will need is to find a benchmark of your CPU running Prime95 and a benchmark of your GPU running Furmark. Add the wattage consumed by each together and add an extra 50W for misc. components. This represents a good value to aim for. You'll never do anything remotely as taxing as running both of those programs together. Typical game consumption will be 2/3 of that value.
OrlanisWorks
Banned
Okay. That all sounds about right according to you guys and some other research. 600w should definitely be enough if I ain't going crazy on hardware and such.
Thank ya'll for taking the time to help me out. I think I know now what I'll be getting.
Thank ya'll for taking the time to help me out. I think I know now what I'll be getting.
Take that watt value then divide by 12 to find the amperage required. Usually 40A is sufficient to run any single GPU build with Haswell. Then find a PSU with good reviews and a single 12v Rail with the calculated amperage. You do not buy a PSU solely based off the wattage, since on crap PSUs that wattage can be aggregated by the 3.3v and 5v rails as well as the 12v. And crap manufacturers just put all the wattage on the 3.3v and 5v rails which is of no use in reality. So you must look at 12v amps.
appaws
Banned
Actually, believe it or not there is no standard for how the pins are arranged on the outputs from the PSU. Different manufacturers do it differently, and as Kennah said, even the different lines from the same manufacturer may have different arrangements. Some of them do some sketchy shit that makes hardcore modders and people who make their own cables go nuts.
Of course, at the other end of the cable, the pin layout is standardized to go into where it has to go into. That is why you can use a standard extension for any cable, but not a replacement.
What PSU do you have...?
This is a very good point to consider, since if the pin layout is not to great on the PSU side, your custom cables (individual stranded) will look like a huge mess, unless the cable are long enough and the case has some good hiding spots so that you can hide the tangled mess coming from the PSU side.
I'd just prefer they posted how much watts they need here and then we'll link 'em to a good PSU. That's a lot of stuff to potentially misunderstand for someone new to computers. Sometimes there is such thing as too much information.
Cant really test a motherboard, its a process of elimination.
Possible to test the ram in another system?
Try to reset CMOS via removing battery.
Check the motherboard manual for the correct slots to use when using a single DIMM, some boards can be fussy on arrangement.
Lol, comon these guys got to learn something too, of course always ask if unsure!
mocolostrocolos
Member
Today the last pieces of my rig arrived, this is how it will stay for a looong time, I hope.
Fractal Design R4
CPU: 2500K@3,3/4,0 depending on what I want.
Cooler: Noctua NH-15-D
MB: Asrock Z77 Pro-4 MVP
RAM: 4x4GB Kingson Hyper-X Genesis
GPU: GTX 970 G1 Gaming
PSU: 650w Powerline
SSD: Crucial M4 128g
HHD: 2x Caviar Blue (500g)
Might upgrade hdds and PSU
Fractal Design R4
CPU: 2500K@3,3/4,0 depending on what I want.
Cooler: Noctua NH-15-D
MB: Asrock Z77 Pro-4 MVP
RAM: 4x4GB Kingson Hyper-X Genesis
GPU: GTX 970 G1 Gaming
PSU: 650w Powerline
SSD: Crucial M4 128g
HHD: 2x Caviar Blue (500g)
Might upgrade hdds and PSU
tell me that isnt a VP-650 Powerline PSU, the one with 330W on the 3.3/5v Rail?
zeroeffect
Member
I know which ones you're talking about. That's the ones I was looking at on Amazon but their Joule rating is extremely low. I'm not entirely sure on what's the max Joule can go through your line when something like a tree falls down but 350 is low. My surge protector is like 1250 Joules I think. I read that APC uses a different method though where their Joule ratings on UPS are low because they actually send the voltage backwards and ground it. Seems consensus opinion is UPS is always an upgrade over surge protectors even if they have low joule ratings. You could always plug a SP in the wall then plug a UPS in it too apparently but you're not supposed to plug a UPS in the wall then a SP into the UPS.
Speaking as someone who originally came to this thread several years ago with little knowledge of computers, there is definitely a potential for information overload. At a certain point, you stop being able to keep everything you're learning straight and go, "Welp, this is too much for me!"
appaws
Banned
You need to get the Corsair ones. Gonna set you back around 100 bucks though. I see the sets are $80....but they don't include a 24-pin....you have to buy that separately. On the Corsair site they are listed by what series PSUs they are for. I see HXI on there.
Just posted this in the X51 thread but will ask here cause you guys are all knowledgable
I have the 2012 x51 with what I believe to be the 220w power supply (refurb unit). It currently has a GTX555 - can I put a GTX750 in this machine? From what I can gather the power requirements are fairly similar
I have the 2012 x51 with what I believe to be the 220w power supply (refurb unit). It currently has a GTX555 - can I put a GTX750 in this machine? From what I can gather the power requirements are fairly similar
Damerman
Member
Sigh** 100 bucks? thanks for the help, i was just looking through new egg for them and i could not find them lol.
I'll buy them when i get my new case/MOBO/CPU/RAM.
zero shift
Banned
I want this card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487076&cm_re=970_gtx-_-14-487-076-_-Product
but have this motherboard:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131706&cm_re=P8p67_le-_-13-131-706-_-Product
The card is a PCI Express 3.0 x16 but my motherboard only has a PCI Express 2.0 x16. Can my motherboard use that video card? And if it can will its performance be bottlenecked?
but have this motherboard:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131706&cm_re=P8p67_le-_-13-131-706-_-Product
The card is a PCI Express 3.0 x16 but my motherboard only has a PCI Express 2.0 x16. Can my motherboard use that video card? And if it can will its performance be bottlenecked?
PCIe 3.0 cards are backward compatible with PCIe 2.0 slots. So yes, your motherboard will be able to use it. Although the clock speed, rate and throughput of PCIe 3.0 are larger than PCIe 2.0, therefore you might lose some performance, in most games you won't notice the difference. Only when you're SLI/CX-ing, benchmarking and/or overclocking your PCIe then you'll see a definitive increase in performance if you're putting PCIe 3.0 cards in PCIe 3.0 slots.
Zero-Crescent
Member
Well, finally placed an order on Amazon for my replacement CPU and Motherboard. Since we're close to a RAM generation shift, I decided to go super-budget this time with the Pentium Anniversary Edition ($70) and ASRock H97m Anniversary ($70). Hopefully, my 560ti didn't go the way of my PSU/CPU/MB, otherwise I'll probably get the EVGA 750ti that's $110 AR on Amazon. Because of that factor, it was a choice between the Pentium and a Kaveri APU (probably a 7800); I was impressed by the APU's benchmarks and features (for onboard graphics), but I figured that I'd likely get much better CPU/GPU performance for about the same price, even if I have to replace my 560ti.
Sleeving is very labour intensive. Just think, that $80-100 used to cost $300-500 to have done for you.
Damerman
Member
damn.
Haven't seen him in the thread for a while, but scogoth used to offer the service for GAFFERS for a very reasonable price.
So I removed everything and started again. I had some thermal paste on the side of the processor so I cleaned it.
I looked on the motherboard and saw what looked like a bent pin but I'm not sure if I bent it or it was like that.
I used the fan that came with the processor and removed the cooler. I connected it without the case and this time, the DRAM led didn't come on but I still had no video.
I tried both HDMI and PC connection.
I also noticed that when it's on, the monitor doesn't show the no signal sign. But when I disconnect it, it shows the sign.
Any ideas what's going on?
I looked on the motherboard and saw what looked like a bent pin but I'm not sure if I bent it or it was like that.
I used the fan that came with the processor and removed the cooler. I connected it without the case and this time, the DRAM led didn't come on but I still had no video.
I tried both HDMI and PC connection.
I also noticed that when it's on, the monitor doesn't show the no signal sign. But when I disconnect it, it shows the sign.
Any ideas what's going on?
CreepingFear
Member
On the plus side, I believe the replacement 780 Ti Classified EVGA sent me doesn't have the same issue as my RMAed card. On the negative side, it's kind of loud. I can put up with the fan though. I know it would drive some people crazy who like things as silent as possible.
Damerman
Member
can you post pictures of the bent pin?
Also, Have a question regarding a corsair H80I i'm gonna install. Most people recommend that you use outside air for cooling by setting the radiator fans as intake(at the back of the case) and then exhausting the air at the top of the case. wouldn't that just spread the heat of the radiator across all my other parts?
I don't even know how that happened. I still have no luck getting it to work and I'm out of ideas.
I'm going to try and find another motherboard.
Use the tip of a mechanical pencil (without the led inserted) and maneuver the pin until it is straight.
Do it slowly and gently, so you don't snap the pin as you straighten it to the normal position.
Kamakazie!
Member
Speeds may be significantly lower if the 2 units are on a different ring main to each other.
I assume the reason for that is because the connection then had to go through the consumer unit and associated breakers.
Might that be the case?
You give insufficient information. What games at what settings? You can probably play most games over 2 years old at that rate if you drop some settings a notch or so.
When the 780 was released in May 2013, it was already unable to manage 2560x1440 @ 60fps on high settings for a lot of games around at that time. That requires a lot of grunt. For most AAA games released in the last 6 months, forget it.
No help with my build, GAF?
My post:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=137561545&postcount=17110
My post:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=137561545&postcount=17110
Jacksinthe
Banned
This is interesting. Had 2 random freezes on my new build with Win8.1 Both times I had different applications open and it "felt" like a standard HDD seek/pop pause bit this time it lasted about 30 seconds then everything unfroze. Both times occurred when I had just opened a file or launched an application.
I am reading some people have some issues with SSDs and BIOS settings. Unsure where to start.
Temps are fine, everything is seated properly, etc. I am not OCing anything. Ran a few tests and came up nothing.
On a side note, decided to 3DMark my machine even tho its not my gaming rig. On the site it shows my 760 hitting around low 8k but I bench about mid 5k. Unsure if those numbers are from people OCing or what.
To note, I don't have those issues with my gaming rig but I also don't have an SSD and my new 970 runs great on it, however, I am using Win7 on my gaming rig.
Any ideas where I should be looking for either? I'm sure my card is fine. I did test some games without issues but nothing too serious. Unity runs fine on the new rig, too. Just Photoshop seemed to temp freeze my machine and I believe Chrome.
I am reading some people have some issues with SSDs and BIOS settings. Unsure where to start.
Temps are fine, everything is seated properly, etc. I am not OCing anything. Ran a few tests and came up nothing.
On a side note, decided to 3DMark my machine even tho its not my gaming rig. On the site it shows my 760 hitting around low 8k but I bench about mid 5k. Unsure if those numbers are from people OCing or what.
To note, I don't have those issues with my gaming rig but I also don't have an SSD and my new 970 runs great on it, however, I am using Win7 on my gaming rig.
Any ideas where I should be looking for either? I'm sure my card is fine. I did test some games without issues but nothing too serious. Unity runs fine on the new rig, too. Just Photoshop seemed to temp freeze my machine and I believe Chrome.
What were the brands of the previous motherboards you had? I wouldn't count on Biostar as a trusted brand.No help with my build, GAF?
My post:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=137561545&postcount=17110
Pie and Beans
Look for me on the local news, I'll be the guy arrested for trying to burn down a Nintendo exec's house.
Yo PC GAF. Considering getting a new graphics card for my now ailing system since this 5770 has clearly reached a natural end as far as usefulness goes.
Only looking to upgrade my card though, and not to cutting edge, so not sure if this is the thread for it, but this is my current:
I now have 8GB RAM in there. Must haves are the graphics card ideally has a DVI and HDMI since I also have a Cintiq hooked up, and I'm not entirely sure how powerful my PSU is.
Only have a 1080p monitor so wont be shooting for 4k or anything, I'm in the UK, and.... I don't really know where to put myself on the use/desire scale since I'm more of a console gamer but can often be tempted to the occasional "better version", but less and less in recent years due to specs. Or am I just a total lost cause with this old box :/
EDIT: Extra info from post below:
Only looking to upgrade my card though, and not to cutting edge, so not sure if this is the thread for it, but this is my current:
I now have 8GB RAM in there. Must haves are the graphics card ideally has a DVI and HDMI since I also have a Cintiq hooked up, and I'm not entirely sure how powerful my PSU is.
Only have a 1080p monitor so wont be shooting for 4k or anything, I'm in the UK, and.... I don't really know where to put myself on the use/desire scale since I'm more of a console gamer but can often be tempted to the occasional "better version", but less and less in recent years due to specs. Or am I just a total lost cause with this old box :/
EDIT: Extra info from post below:
Prime crotch
Banned
How important is a good case? I got a coolermaste microatx and a non modular psu, so the cables are pretty much all around the thing, been considering getting a phantex so I could at least have more room for manouver.
opticalmace
Member
Should be fine in most games as long as you turn the settings down. How much depends on the game.
Naked Snake
Member
This seems to be a myth.
Google search results on this explain why. And in fact if anything multi-rail 12v is slightly better/safer for higher wattage PSUs.
Why is it still purported here?
Yo PC GAF. Considering getting a new graphics card for my now ailing system since this 5770 has clearly reached a natural end as far as usefulness goes.
Only looking to upgrade my card though, and not to cutting edge, so not sure if this is the thread for it, but this is my current:
I now have 8GB RAM in there. Must haves are the graphics card ideally has a DVI and HDMI since I also have a Cintiq hooked up, and I'm not entirely sure how powerful my PSU is.
Only have a 1080p monitor so wont be shooting for 4k or anything, I'm in the UK, and.... I don't really know where to put myself on the use/desire scale since I'm more of a console gamer but can often be tempted to the occasional "better version", but less and less in recent years due to specs. Or am I just a total lost cause with this old box :/
Still a decent CPU when OC'd. Open your case and see what PSU you have.
Damerman
Member
Well i hope u have a micro atx motherboard. Id say a case is pretty important, especially if you know what you want. My first build was a really small mid tower case. It wasnt great because i put pieces in there that were constantly moving and used a lot of power so temps were always high. I also had very little control over the frequencies of my processors so the fans were always in full load and i had no clue what i was doing in terms of airflow... First build was a mess to say the least. My second build was not that great either because i got a massive full tower case but some of my parts were passive(fans turn on only when they have to). So this pc 's temps were always low but taking up way too much space.
Now im about to move to my 3rd build and i have a much better grasp of cable management, air flow and fan cfm, passive parts, and software for controlling my frequencies and fan speeds. Im getting a mid tower case(inwin 904) with a lot of powerful but low wattage parts. I would say a case is the third most important part(after psu and mobo respectively) in regards to a long healthy life of a PC.
SniperHunter
Banned
Whats the best cpu for gaming in terms of price? I guess more games will use an i7 in the future?
Pie and Beans
Look for me on the local news, I'll be the guy arrested for trying to burn down a Nintendo exec's house.
Ah, probably should have mentioned an ongoing issue is I'm not getting good temps on my CPU as is (49-51 C at idle here in the UK which cant be... too splendid), probably due to the fan ontop going a bit skewiffy and making a bit of noise when it first switches on. Probably needs thermal pasting, reseating, and maybe even a new fan plopping on there, but I've been putting it off for like... half a year. Then I can overclock probz.
PSU is a Win Power Plus, ad-e750ae-a5/a6, 750w supposedly but I've seen some say its not "true 750w" so... like... what.
Only other quirk to mention is I also have a sound card being used because my onboard sound just disappeared one day.
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