JamiieCarter
Neo Member
That does look good! I have just configured this using the build from OP, what do you think of this below? I need more than 1TB and I would prefer the i7.
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/R7j9t6
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
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That does look good! I have just configured this using the build from OP, what do you think of this below? I need more than 1TB and I would prefer the i7.
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/R7j9t6
phxxBullet
Banned
Not going to happen, but for gaming, this would be the best.
There isn't that much difference between a standart i5 and a OCed one, except in a handful of CPU heavy games.
The GPU is way more important, so having 100bucks more for the GPU will be the way to go if you ask me.
But not upgrading for 5 years is "impossible". I'm running a flagship GPU from '09 and can't run today's games at maxed out 1080/60. Let away resolutions higher than 1080p.
Every 3 years, a new GPU is needed if you want to play games maxed out, and not stuttering like mad.
Fair enough. I'd prefer the lower power requirements of the i3 and lower noise, as well as stronger performance in day to day tasks.
GhostTrick
Banned
Yes it is, of course not for maxing out games. But I'm asking to play those games in decent conditions, like at least 1080p and high settings at playable framerates.
For exemple, I'm using my HD4870 for now 5 years. Except for some games that were CPU limited, I could play a handful games at decent settings.
The only thing I fear is to be heavily CPU limited, like I am nowadays because 5 years ago I bought a dual core instead of quad core.
phxxBullet
Banned
Well, my dad wouldn't even notice a difference between an OCed i7 and a i3, and he'll be more than happy to replace his old WinXP Core Duo haha
Well, I'm always surprised that people want to spend 1000+ on a rig, but don't mind to use the same GPU for a period of 5 years, which then feels like a cheap 100bucks thing.
But ofc, if you don't care alot about graphics, then it'll work out.
As for the CPU part, it's hard to say.
I'd just go with a decent quad, and upgrade to an octa when games support 8 cores.
By the time games fully support 8 cores, you'll be in need of a new CPU anyways.
phxxBullet
Banned
whoops double post, sry
Ok lets just check everything.
Assuming you have a HDMI AV Receiver the connection should be like this
PC -> HDMI -> Receiver -> HDMI -> TV
If you have an older Receiver without a HDMI switcher
PC -> HDMI -> TV
PC -> Optical -> Receiver
If you get sound from the TV but not the surround system, it either means the Audio is being played from the wrong device on the PC under scenario 2. Else, the surround sound system maybe on the wrong input.
What surround sound system is it? By default AMD drivers install the HDMI Audio driver, but you have to click customise during install to see the individual options. Go to the playback devices in Windows, right click under the current device, click show disconnected devices. And click show disabled devices. Now you should see the AMD High Definition output device if you didnt before.
Give us all the detail for the setup as im having to start from the pure basics to help you otherwise, rather than just tell you what to do.
What is your budget?
If you can wait Asus' ROG Swift 1440p/144hz G-sync monitor is due next month.
JamiieCarter
Neo Member
FRACTAL DESIGN CORE 1000 BLACK CASE
Intel® Core™i5 Quad Core Processor i5-4690 (3.5GHz) 6MB Cache
ASUS® H81M-E: Micro-ATX, LG1150, USB 3.0, SATA 6GBs
16GB KINGSTON HYPER-X FURY DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz (2 x 8GB)
2GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 770 - 2 DVI, HDMI, DP - 3D Vision Ready
2TB 3.5" SATA-III 6GB/s HDD 7200RPM 64MB CACHE
120GB Samsung 840 EVO SSD, SATA 6Gb/s (upto 540MB/sR | 410MB/sW
CORSAIR 550W VS SERIES™ VS-550 POWER SUPPLY
£811.00 inc VAT and Delivery.
What does everyone think of this build? Can I get better elsewhere?
Intel® Core™i5 Quad Core Processor i5-4690 (3.5GHz) 6MB Cache
ASUS® H81M-E: Micro-ATX, LG1150, USB 3.0, SATA 6GBs
16GB KINGSTON HYPER-X FURY DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz (2 x 8GB)
2GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 770 - 2 DVI, HDMI, DP - 3D Vision Ready
2TB 3.5" SATA-III 6GB/s HDD 7200RPM 64MB CACHE
120GB Samsung 840 EVO SSD, SATA 6Gb/s (upto 540MB/sR | 410MB/sW
CORSAIR 550W VS SERIES™ VS-550 POWER SUPPLY
£811.00 inc VAT and Delivery.
What does everyone think of this build? Can I get better elsewhere?
How much is that PSU? Its very entry level, so there maybe alternatives for a similar price.
Go for the Crucial MX100 SSD, should be cheaper and perform just as good as the Samsung.
JamiieCarter
Neo Member
It's based upon the Vortex 500 that was quoted to me earlier on this page.
http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/view/Vortex-500-gaming-pc/
I have the option of a 650W VS Series or a 650w RM Series.
Ally1987
Member
hmm... about $800-900
JamiieCarter
Neo Member
That definitely looks much more better and cheaper, thankyou for the help.
Could you link me over the website?
Its scan.co.uk.
If you do 25 posts at hexus forums you get free next day shipping from scan. Check the forum for more info. http://forums.hexus.net/scan-care-hexus/138836-scan2hexus-free-shipping-setup-guide.html
Combine that with their Today Only deals, you will get the best prices.
And another PSU option
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/550w-seasonic-ssr-550rt-single-rail-80-plus-gold-1x120mm-fan-atx-psu
The Coolermaster PSU is hybrid modular however. Take your pick.
Gaf, need some advice. I have an old PC (about 6 years), which exactly a year ago today I had an issue. My brother/family uses it now, and I had a day off so decided to see if I could fix the USB ports (... by plugging the header in, as I couldn't remember which occured first).
Anyway, did that, and it wouldn't turn on. Unplugged USB, wouldn't turn on. Took EVERYTHING out, and there's nothing shorting the board (a bit dusty, but that's it). Tried with just one RAM stick, nothing in apart from barebones etc.
Sat in despair, I had it unplugged for 20 minutes whilst I was on Amazon looking at how cheap I could buy a new CPU/mobo/case out of guilt. I try it randomly, and it turns on - happy days! Tried it a few times, great. Plugged in USB header, stops working (I literally touched nothing else). Unplugged USB header, and now nothing.
The exact same thing happened a year ago, and it just started working again. I ended up building a new PC anyway, but I never managed to fix it (as it just started working).
Can you think what it would be? Or am I shelling out £300 out of guilt for breaking their PC, just because I wanted to plug in the USB header?
Anyway, did that, and it wouldn't turn on. Unplugged USB, wouldn't turn on. Took EVERYTHING out, and there's nothing shorting the board (a bit dusty, but that's it). Tried with just one RAM stick, nothing in apart from barebones etc.
Sat in despair, I had it unplugged for 20 minutes whilst I was on Amazon looking at how cheap I could buy a new CPU/mobo/case out of guilt. I try it randomly, and it turns on - happy days! Tried it a few times, great. Plugged in USB header, stops working (I literally touched nothing else). Unplugged USB header, and now nothing.
The exact same thing happened a year ago, and it just started working again. I ended up building a new PC anyway, but I never managed to fix it (as it just started working).
Can you think what it would be? Or am I shelling out £300 out of guilt for breaking their PC, just because I wanted to plug in the USB header?
Are you 100% sure its the USB header? As i believe Firewire has the same pin out, that can cause big problems on old boards.
Nostremitus
Member
So... wait a few years? Wait a few years.
Anyone here overclock with an i5 4670k and AsROCK z97 Pro4 mobo? I've been trying to overclock it this past weekend but anytime I try I get a red screen of death within five minutes of gaming. At first I thought it was the used 290x I bought, but resetting the overclock to stock fixes everything.
I assume it's probably the voltage, as I'm trying to OC with the mobo's preset OC settings. This mobo names things differently in the UEFI though, so I have no idea which settings to mess with. Any help?
I assume it's probably the voltage, as I'm trying to OC with the mobo's preset OC settings. This mobo names things differently in the UEFI though, so I have no idea which settings to mess with. Any help?
Have you done any stability testing? Prime95?
Exactly what did you change in the BIOS to overclock the CPU?
Red screen of death or blue screen of death? Because ive never seen red.
Yeah it's a USB header. After 20 mins I tried again, worked. Moved it back to where it lives, doesn't turn out.
Eugh.
In the 20minutes you left the PC, was it plugged into the wall with the PSU and wall switches ON?
I have that same exact mobo and cpu but I am missing other parts so I have not assembled it just yet. Now I am getting scared.
No, all disconnected, so any charge left etc.
The only thing I've changed in the BIOS is a premade OC setting for 4.2ghz. I haven't done any stability testing yet.
Yeah, red screen of death, not blue. The entire screen turns red with no text, and the sound gets distorted and starts looping, followed by an automatic restart within 30 seconds.
Sounds like the CMOS resets and then allow it to boot up. Very weird, must be something broken on the USB daughterboard.
Ok i believe whats happening here is that the ASRock profile is using a bclk overclock which also overclocks the PCIE lane, and that is causing the GPU to fail, because the symptoms you describe are actually a GPU failure.
Try this, set the 4.2Ghz profile, then under that you will see a CPU Multiplier. Set that to 42, then look for a bclk or CPU Base Clock setting, set that to 100MHZ. Now reboot.That will give you 4.2Ghz without messing with the PCIE speeds and other South Bridge Communication speeds (HDDs too (can corrupt data!)).
I may have been conservative with the 'dusty'. The CMOS battery is slightly baked in dust... But I don't see why it would start after moving it? Or being temperamental?
Yeah..I'd hold out for it next month (i think it's next month)
letsbereasonable
Member
Would a 290 be a comparable sidegrade/upgrade to Crossfire 6950s? Looking to put the 6950s in separate machines for other uses and want a midrange replacement that will perform well.
diablos991
Can’t stump the diablos
That is your problem. Do a little research and OC the processor properly. These aren't hard chips to OC.
Here is the guide I used on my 4670k with and As rock z97 Fatality K1ller.
http://www.overclockers.com/3step-guide-to-overclock-intel-haswell
What i meant was that the reason why it starts to work after unplugging for 20minutes is because the CMOS is being reset. I think the case USB daughterboard is broken, and that is messing with the PC in some way requiring a CMOS reset to revert to a useful state.
Why not buy an external USB Hub? Connect to the rear USB ports and bring to the front of the PC for easy access. Leave the case USB cable unplugged.
outunderthestars
Banned
OK, today is finally the day. I traded in my consoles and now have a pile of amazon store credit. Already have the case, now I just need everything else. I am not comfortable overclocking yet, and am interested in 1080P gaming, indies, mods, and emulation up to PSX/Gamecube/Wii.
My budget is around $1000, not including the case. Anything I should change?
Total: $1040.
So excited to finally get to play the 186 games in my Steam account.
My budget is around $1000, not including the case. Anything I should change?
- CPU : Intel Core i5-4690 3.5GHz $214.99
- CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO $30.99
- Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 $94.99
- Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 8GB DDR3-1866 $99.99
- Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" SSD $134.99
- WD Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM $59.24
- Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Superclocked ACX $335.91
- Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Blackout ATX (already purchased)
- Power Supply: Antec 550W ATX12V $68.74
Total: $1040.
So excited to finally get to play the 186 games in my Steam account.
outunderthestars
Banned
Welcome!none of those games are ever going to get played
Ha! Soooo true. Choosing a motherboard ended up being much harder than I ever thought it would be.
Awesome, thanks for the information. That definitely sounds like what's happening so we'll see if that corrects it. I'll try it as soon as I get off from work today.
Thank you for the guide! I'll give that a nice read.
Much appreciated to the both of you! I'll report back after testing
Oh yeah, there's no NEED for them, it'd just be nice. Anyway, it's working again now, after 30 mins unplugged. I reseated the CMOS battery and that didn't fix it, so as you say, it must be a hardware fault.
Never mind. I'll make this post again next year when it happens.
Yeah I have it in my living room, it's a Mini ITX build though. Use a wireless keyboard and mouse and a 360 pad with steam big picture.
NekoToshiro
Member
I was talking to someone else about it and they recommend the same MB. They also pointed out it looked like it was built with Legos.
I mostly do. It's a bit of an annoyance having to change the main screen between the two displays every time I game. I suggest a wireless controller and a wireless mouse for your comfy couch gaming needs.
Cool. Is there any solution to playing fps mouse + kb from the couch? I've seen some that just look like pretty bad TV trays.
Was my big worry, but I play with the keyboard in my lap and mouse on the side with a cloth mouse pad.
The bigger issue is actually being further from the screen, it's harder to spot enemies.
Hey PC gurus - I need a surround sound headset and can't decide between these:
- Logitech G430
- Sentey Harmoniq Pro
Which is better? I'm also open to other suggestions!
- Logitech G430
- Sentey Harmoniq Pro
Which is better? I'm also open to other suggestions!
Sectorseven
Member
Do these power supplies with gold/silver ratings make a difference for the average gamer?
I suppose you just have to put aside any pretentions of being top of multiplayer leaderboards??
PC only? Is the quality of sound a big part of it, or is the virtualized surround much more important?
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