Nostremitus
Member
I'm about to re-install Windows 8.1 on my SSD.
Now running from the SSD, things seem a bit snappier.
...and I pulled the trigger on the Sapphire R9 270. It should be a pretty big upgrade from my HD 5570.
I'm about to re-install Windows 8.1 on my SSD.
Now running from the SSD, things seem a bit snappier.
...and I pulled the trigger on the Sapphire R9 270. It should be a pretty big upgrade from my HD 5570.
You too.
Kharma's build is $20 over my budget (when you take out the mail-in rebates, since my budget doesn't take them into account), and doesn't include a copy of Windows (or an optical drive of any description) but it gives me something to work from at least.
The motherboard i have is the p8p67 pro. Also do you need to disable the onboard audio chipset? Or can both work simultaneously?Boss★Moogle;118679651 said:I still use my Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS in my current rig. As long as your motherboard has at least one old PCI slot then you can use it. While old PCI slots are getting scarce on new motherboards these days, you can still find them on some of the current boards.
The Audigy 2 ZS is such a good sound card compared to most of the sub $100 cards of today and you can get em for like $10-15 used on eBay.
What are some alternatives to the Corsair 350D?
Optical drives? This isn't the 2000s
Windows for ~$10 on Reddit, and I can't remember the last time I put a CD/DVD/BluRay in my drive.
But some of the games I like to play are. Why did you go for the Gigabyte GTX 780 over the Zotac version I'd selected? The Zotac is $20 cheaper without taking the mail-in into account (which I don't as I generally can't claim them, having to use a P.O. box for mail sucks in that regard).
Between 8.1 and 7 what's better? Or it doesn't matter.
I've been having an issue recently waking my computer from sleep and I think I've isolated the problem. It seems that if I have too many things connected to USB slots when I wake the computer up, my display won't come on. I have a 550W Seasonic PSU with a Sapphire Vapor-X 280X, so I am cutting it somewhat close on power. And at worst, I do have quite a few things connected via USB: PS3 controller, webcam, microphone, keyboard, mouse, external HDD, sometimes a flash drive. So would that really be the problem?
Hi what are the Witcher 3's specs?
Get an ISO of either Windows 7 or Windows 8.
If you have to ask, you can't play it.Hi what are the Witcher 3's specs?
If you have to ask, you can't play it.
Game comes out next year. Everyone should chill.
Let me get this straight:
I click on windows 8 and then do I click on the in tall 8.1 and I click on the exe file, input the serial number and it'll download the IOS file I need?
Then I use the tool mover to either move it on to a USB or DVD drive?
What would you consider a proper size SSD for just Windows 7 Ultimate? Still playing with kharma45's build from earlier in the thread.
Thanks for this!
What do you plan to use it as? If its just a OS drive should be fine with 90gb (aka buy the 120gb), as the install with nothing disabled is 20GB..which shrinks when you disable stuff that you dont' want enabled on a SSD.
Yeah, it would just be a OS drive, gonna have a 1TB HHD (and I have a 2TB external and a 1.5 TB external on top of that) so space isn't an issue. Why go 120GB if the install is 20GB? Do paging files and such take up the rest?
Is the Windforce cooler supposed to be good? My 290X Windforce hits 94C on load :\
Now I can't make up my mind. I'm thinking an evga 760. This good?
Honestly, I'm fine with a standard HDD and load times. Adding an SSD later and sticking with an i7 seems like a better choice to me.
How is it "unbalanced" and what stuff is "a little junky"? What would you replace them with while staying within my budget while focusing on making the best gaming system possible? I'm in this thread looking for advice to improve what I have selected so far, noting is set in stone (although I'm sticking with those two aforementioned high-end components, because price-wise those two parts would be the most costly to replace later on and I'm pretty low income, and I'm not really sold on the apparent need of a SSD).
But some of the games I like to play are. Why did you go for the Gigabyte GTX 780 over the Zotac version I'd selected? The Zotac is $20 cheaper without taking the mail-in into account (which I don't as I generally can't claim them, having to use a P.O. box for mail sucks in that regard).
I need a good ATX case for <$50-70. PSU at the bottom, SSD compatibility. I've asked before but no dice. But I really, really need to replace my old Antec case because it is falling apart.
Suggest away, please.
It's okay to me.I'm sorry that you feel that way. An SSD makes the entire windows experience faster. It's more than just load times and boot times. You're way better off getting the SSD first and a hard drive later. You just have a lot of weird choices in your build for no good reason other than 'budget'. But a good build is more than just getting an i7 and a 780. It's about having a balanced computer. You would have a much better experience overall with a quality built i5 with a 290.
But hey. It's your money.
Since My motherboard has HDMI can I set up the computer though a TV?
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Also how can DDR3-1866 work with a motherboard that has Memory Type: DDR3-1333 / 1600? PCparttaker is showing no issues.
I'm sorry that you feel that way. An SSD makes the entire windows experience faster. It's more than just load times and boot times. You're way better off getting the SSD first and a hard drive later. You just have a lot of weird choices in your build for no good reason other than 'budget'. But a good build is more than just getting an i7 and a 780. It's about having a balanced computer. You would have a much better experience overall with a quality built i5 with a 290.
But hey. It's your money.
Yeah, but you'd be using the integrated graphics, not your GPU. Check if your GPU has one.
Just means the RAM won't run at full speed (but you could run it at DDR3-1600 at tighter timings). Won't be incompatible. Probably not worth it to buy RAM that speed unless its the same price as slower RAM.
Is there a consensus on what the best under $200 Z97 board is? I'm thinking of going Asus Z97-A. Was looking at the MSI Gaming 5, but no optical out is no buy for me.
It'll be a fantastic upgrade.
That seems high to me. The windforce coolers are really good. Do you have good case airflow? Dust? How fast are the fans going?
SSD is the easiest to upgrade later in the sense that the cost/benefit for purchasing an i7 once you already have an i5 is terrible, same for a 780/290.
If he is playing multiplayer match type games then load times dont really matter because you are in a weakest link scenario.
If i had a fixed sum build SSD would be the first thing nixed in favor of GPU/CPU too
I used to think like you guys. I really did. Now I can't do it. An ssd less computer is just painful to use now.It's okay to me.
I can understand him wanting the best CPU and GPU to simply focus on the gaming utility. Things like SSD are more QoL stuff, unless we can prove it significantly impact his framerate .
I used to think like you guys. I really did. Now I can't do it. An ssd less computer is just painful to use now.
If you havent had one before then skipping it until you can muster the $100 or so it takes for a 120GB boot drive is worth the wait instead of compromising CPU/GPU
If you already are used to SSD's then there is no going back. I have a 1TB coming tomorrow for my work laptop. RPM be damned
If you havent had one before then skipping it until you can muster the $100 or so it takes for a 120GB boot drive is worth the wait instead of compromising CPU/GPU
If you already are used to SSD's then there is no going back. I have a 1TB coming tomorrow for my work laptop. 5400RPM be damned
Decent airflow but not the best, I guess. Fans were spinning at the max without user intervention (increasing speed w/ afterburner)