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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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appaws

Banned
Exactly my thoughts. I never had one, so it's not like I'll miss it.

It's like the difference between a car which you can start from inside....and one of those ones from the olden times where you had to get out in front and spin that thing around to start it.

But, yes, I agree you should not skimp on the CPU or GPU....but you should skimp on lunch, beer, smokes, gym membership, weed, your children's college fund, etc....
 

wowzors

Member
This may not be the place to ask but I need help.

I currently have my PC plugged into a monitor as well as my TV (47kdl802a Sony) everything works fine it goes through my stereo system and everything.

Problem is the blacks are showing up gray, I can't figure it out I have tried messing with the TV settings but I'm not sure what else I can do, its driving me nuts, makes everything look washed out.
 

Renekton

Member
I used to think like you guys. I really did. Now I can't do it. An ssd less computer is just painful to use now.
Meh been there. It's not the second coming of Jesus.

If the main focus is maximizing the gaming performance from a fixed budget, then the SSD can come later since it's pretty easy to replace.

Hm, I am not quite sure what is wrong with my new 780 Ti. I am only getting around 30 fps at 1920x1080 playing Arma 3 with Ultra setting. Benchmarks I've seen showed at least 75 fps. Other games I am getting well below benchmarks.
Correct me if wrong, Arma 3 is supposed to be CPU-heavy.
 

eek5

Member
What were you running? Something like Furmark? Or something like Valley? Or just a standard game...? I'm just curious, because I can't imagine a card, even a hot chip like the 290x, getting to 94c with the fans spun up all the way....

I just googled and saw in some reviews that some of the reference cards run that hot under load....and throttled back performance. But not so much the windforce ones...guru3d for example had it maxed out at 77c....you might need to tinker around with the fan profiles a bit....

Or there could even be some problem with the TIM used on the card or something.

I was running Heaven Benchmark.

It doesn't run as hot while playing Bioshock Infinite fwiw.

If my card doesn't die in the next month or so I'm considering getting a g10 + x40 or something which should alleviate all these temp issues.
 

Azulsky

Member
Hm, I am not quite sure what is wrong with my new 780 Ti. I am only getting around 30 fps at 1920x1080 playing Arma 3 with Ultra setting. Benchmarks I've seen showed at least 75 fps. Other games I am getting well below benchmarks.

Ultra is a pretty broad category inside which is the difference between playability and hardware rape.

What are all your settings.
 
Sold my old EVGA GTX 670 FTW that was just laying around collecting dust, on Craigslist for $200. Nice to not have to wait for feedback, pay seller fees, or have to ship. That person got a good deal since he said he still was doing 1080p. It's still one of the better cards around.
 

Hellix

Member
Correct me if wrong, Arma 3 is supposed to be CPU-heavy.

Yeah, it is.

Ultra is a pretty broad category inside which is the difference between playability and hardware rape.

What are all your settings.

Well, I feel like this should be... better. Is there somewhere I can compare benchmarks with similar specs?

YbOAe1n.png
 

Witchfinder General

punched Wheelchair Mike
Need some troubleshooting advice. For a while I've been having a problem where sound would cut off playing graphically intensive games (Thief, Batman, Dark Souls, etc). I sent my GTX670 off for repairs and finally got it back a few weeks ago. So far everything has been fine except I've had the sound cut off twice when playing Dark Souls 2 since yesterday. Most worryingly, when the sound cut off for the second time today I restarted my PC (sometimes that's needed to restore sound) it wouldn't reboot and the debug LED on my Gigabyte M1 Sniper M3 motherboard was giving me the "A0" code which stands for "IDE initialization is started." I managed to get it to work again after I took out and placed back the CMOS battery.

Is this a worry? Is the fault my 670 or should I now consider that it's my motherboard at fault? I really, really don't want to dismantle everything and send the motherboard back for repair.
 

NJDEN

Member
Gaming: 5 | Emulation: 2 | Video Editing: 2 | Streaming HD:3 | 3D Model (Blender): 3 | General Usage: 5 | Overclock: 5
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Power Supply: Corsair RM850: $140.98
Random Access Memory: Corsair Vengence Pro 2x8: $159.99
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD4H-BK: $199.99
Central Processor: Intel i7-4790k: $279.99
Graphics Processor: Nvidia EVGA GTX 780 6GB GDDR5 384-bit: $569.99
Case: NZXT H440 Black & Blue:$119.99
Solid State Drive: Crucial MX100 256GB: $109.99
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken G10: $29.99
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X41 140mm Watercooler: $109.99 (x's 2 for GPU?)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have been tinkering with the idea of a new build for the last month and I wanted to post the specs for review. Should I get a 780, or wait until the 800 series; does anyone have any news the 800 series? Is Nvidia G-Sync Worth it; if it is I'm planing on going with a ASUS VG248QE monitor, unless directed otherwise. I'm going all in with this build in regards to performance & aesthetics, so any commentary, criticism or recommendations are highly welcome. I have OS, thermal paste, keyboard, mouse & audio taken care of. Please let me know of any better pricing or deals (all items from Amazon are with Prime included). Thanks!
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Yeah, it is.

Well, I feel like this should be... better. Is there somewhere I can compare benchmarks with similar specs?
HWBot or overclock.net threads
Need some troubleshooting advice. For a while I've been having a problem where sound would cut off playing graphically intensive games (Thief, Batman, Dark Souls, etc). I sent my GTX670 off for repairs and finally got it back a few weeks ago. So far everything has been fine except I've had the sound cut off twice when playing Dark Souls 2 since yesterday. Most worryingly, when the sound cut off for the second time today I restarted my PC (sometimes that's needed to restore sound) it wouldn't reboot and the debug LED on my Gigabyte M1 Sniper M3 motherboard was giving me the "A0" code which stands for "IDE initialization is started." I managed to get it to work again after I took out and placed back the CMOS battery.

Is this a worry? Is the fault my 670 or should I now consider that it's my motherboard at fault? I really, really don't want to dismantle everything and send the motherboard back for repair.
You running audio from HDMI on the card or mobo?
1st guess is audio cable
2nd is a short somewhere (clean out case, reseat mobo)
3rd is audio interference/load issues on mobo
Gaming: 5 | Emulation: 2 | Video Editing: 2 | Streaming HD:3 | 3D Model (Blender): 3 | General Usage: 5 | Overclock: 5
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Power Supply: Corsair RM850: $140.98
Random Access Memory: Corsair Vengence Pro 2x8: $159.99
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD4H-BK: $199.99
Central Processor: Intel i7-4790k: $279.99
Graphics Processor: Nvidia EVGA GTX 780 6GB GDDR5 384-bit: $569.99
Case: NZXT H440 Black & Blue:$119.99
Solid State Drive: Crucial MX100 256GB: $109.99
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken G10: $29.99
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X41 140mm Watercooler: $109.99 (x's 2 for GPU?)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have been tinkering with the idea of a new build for the last month and I wanted to post the specs for review. Should I get a 780, or wait until the 800 series; does anyone have any news the 800 series? Is Nvidia G-Sync Worth it; if it is I'm planing on going with a ASUS VG248QE monitor, unless directed otherwise. I'm going all in with this build in regards to performance & aesthetics, so any commentary, criticism or recommendations are highly welcome. I have OS, thermal paste, keyboard, mouse & audio taken care of. Please let me know of any better pricing or deals (all items from Amazon are with Prime included). Thanks!
If you have horsepower and want 60, G-Sync isn't worth the extra money no.

Only get the G10 if you want to kill yourself. Wait for Corsair's solution imo. The install is the absolute worst I have ever done because I had to take a knife to scrape the paint off the holes since they didn't fit. The 780Ti doesn't really need one for performance reasons like the 290/290X imo.
 

Renekton

Member
Need some troubleshooting advice. For a while I've been having a problem where sound would cut off playing graphically intensive games (Thief, Batman, Dark Souls, etc). I sent my GTX670 off for repairs and finally got it back a few weeks ago. So far everything has been fine except I've had the sound cut off twice when playing Dark Souls 2 since yesterday. Most worryingly, when the sound cut off for the second time today I restarted my PC (sometimes that's needed to restore sound) it wouldn't reboot and the debug LED on my Gigabyte M1 Sniper M3 motherboard was giving me the "A0" code which stands for "IDE initialization is started." I managed to get it to work again after I took out and placed back the CMOS battery.

Is this a worry? Is the fault my 670 or should I now consider that it's my motherboard at fault? I really, really don't want to dismantle everything and send the motherboard back for repair.
I think A0 means "okay".

Since you mentioned your GPU, it's possible the Nvidia driver could clash with the onboard audio driver. Try clean reinstalling your Nvidia drivers. ATI also had cases of HDMI driver not playing nice with onboard sound.
 

NJDEN

Member
Hmm, not sure what is a better investment at the moment...

GTX 780 with 6gb GDDR5

GTX 780 TI with 3gb GDDR5
 

eek5

Member
Only get the G10 if you want to kill yourself. Wait for Corsair's solution imo. The install is the absolute worst I have ever done because I had to take a knife to scrape the paint off the holes since they didn't fit. The 780Ti doesn't really need one for performance reasons like the 290/290X imo.

I can't use the HG10 with a non-reference card, right, or is there a fan alternative for it?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I can't use the HG10 with a non-reference card, right, or is there a fan alternative for it?
First batch of HG10 is only for 290/290X iirc and may only be for reference (if it uses the fan). Not sure since it's not released yet. They may have a fan SKU which wouldn't surprise me.
 

Witchfinder General

punched Wheelchair Mike
I think A0 means "okay".

Since you mentioned your GPU, it's possible the Nvidia driver could clash with the onboard audio driver. Try clean reinstalling your Nvidia drivers. ATI also had cases of HDMI driver not playing nice with onboard sound.

HWBot or overclock.net threads

You running audio from HDMI on the card or mobo?
1st guess is audio cable
2nd is a short somewhere (clean out case, reseat mobo)
3rd is audio interference/load issues on mobo

If you have horsepower and want 60, G-Sync isn't worth the extra money no.

Only get the G10 if you want to kill yourself. Wait for Corsair's solution imo. The install is the absolute worst I have ever done because I had to take a knife to scrape the paint off the holes since they didn't fit. The 780Ti doesn't really need one for performance reasons like the 290/290X imo.

I've swapped HDMI cables a few times but I'll look into the rest. Thanks.
 

NexusCell

Member
Can someone give me their opinion on air vs. liquid cooling? I'm thinking about switching the liquid but I'm not sure about the cost or hassle involved.

Also, does it matter in particular whether I have an i5 4690K or i7 4790K processor? There's a steep 100 dollar difference between the two and I want to know if I'm getting something thats not needed.
 

NJDEN

Member
Can someone give me their opinion on air vs. liquid cooling? I'm thinking about switching the liquid but I'm not sure about the cost or hassle involved.

Also, does it matter in particular whether I have an i5 4690K or i7 4790K processor? There's a steep 100 dollar difference between the two and I want to know if I'm getting something thats not needed.

I have only ever done air cooling with aftermarket heat-sinks, but if you want to overclock your processor I would have to recommend water cooling (I put a fair amount of research into water cooling for my next build), plus it just looks more kick ass imo. If you choose water cooling you have two routes:

Closed Loop: Very simple and comes pretty much pre-assembled. Examples are the NZXT Kraken or Corsair Hydro Series. I feel like the Corsair gets more love than the Kraken, but no matter what a closed loop CPU cooler will set you back around $100. Closed loops are what most people use and what I'd recommend for anyone starting water cooling.

Custom Loop: Can be as complex or as simple as you want, you control your pumps, radiators, fans, ect. The whole point of a custom loop is for customization, but it can also be tricky to assemble for those with minimal experience.

When it comes to water cooling your CPU the more surface area of your radiator the better, but you don't need to go nuts if you planing on a fairly low key overclock or just for aesthetic purposes. If you get a closed loop just make sure that its compatible with your motherboard socket type such as LGA 1150, usually they are modular and you can adjust it based on your socket type.

As for your i5 vs i7 its probably more beneficial to go with the i5 and invest the saved money in a better GPU as that will present a bottleneck long before the CPU does. If you can swing the i7 by all means go for it, but at this point CPU tech isn't whats holding most people back.

If you don't plan on overclocking an aftermarket heat-sink is a perfectly viable option as well as a bit cheaper, but it will be louder.
 

Brofist

Member
Hmm, not sure what is a better investment at the moment...

GTX 780 with 6gb GDDR5

GTX 780 TI with 3gb GDDR5

If you don't have a problem with overclocking I'd say the first choice. The gains from the TI can be made up with a decent OC.
 

lustrate

Member
What do you guys think of this sub-$1000 build? My main goal is to be able to play Skyrim on ultra with mods at 1080p.

Intel Core i5-4670K
Cooler Master Hyper TX3
GIGABYTE GA-H87M-D3H
HyperX XMP Blu Red Series 8GB
GIGABYTE GV-N770OC-2GD GeForce GTX 770 2GB
Samsung EVO 250GB
CORSAIR CX series CX600 600W
Corsair Carbide Series 200R Black Steel

Total: $980 from Amazon with a Prime membership
 

kharma45

Member
I need a good ATX case for <$50-70. PSU at the bottom, SSD compatibility. I've asked before but no dice. But I really, really need to replace my old Antec case because it is falling apart.
Suggest away, please.

200R

300R

Shinobi

Slightly over budget but Fractal R4

What do you guys think of this sub-$1000 build? My main goal is to be able to play Skyrim on ultra with mods at 1080p.

Intel Core i5-4670K
Cooler Master Hyper TX3
GIGABYTE GA-H87M-D3H
HyperX XMP Blu Red Series 8GB
GIGABYTE GV-N770OC-2GD GeForce GTX 770 2GB
Samsung EVO 250GB
CORSAIR CX series CX600 600W
Corsair Carbide Series 200R Black Steel

Total: $980 from Amazon with a Prime membership

You want Z97 for the i5, and the CX isn't great for the PSU. MX100 is a better SSD too.

What price are you talking for the components?
 

lustrate

Member
118736834 said:
You want Z97 for the i5, and the CX isn't great for the PSU. MX100 is a better SSD too.

What price are you talking for the components?

I'd like to stay under $1100 not including peripherals or OS; if I were to replace the Gigabyte motherboard with an ASUS Z97 my total would come up to $1033. What PSU would you recommend over the CX? It's pretty highly reviewed on Amazon.

Updated list:

Intel Core i5-4670K
Cooler Master Hyper TX3
ASUS Z97-A ATX
HyperX XMP Blu Red Series 8GB
GIGABYTE GV-N770OC-2GD GeForce GTX 770 2GB
Crucial MX100 256GB
CORSAIR CX series CX600 600W
Corsair Carbide Series 200R Black Steel

Total: $1040
 

kharma45

Member
I'd like to stay under $1100 not including peripherals or OS; if I were to replace the Gigabyte motherboard with an ASUS Z97 my total would come up to $1033. What PSU would you recommend over the CX? It's pretty highly reviewed on Amazon.

Updated list:

Intel Core i5-4670K
Cooler Master Hyper TX3
ASUS Z97-A ATX
HyperX XMP Blu Red Series 8GB
GIGABYTE GV-N770OC-2GD GeForce GTX 770 2GB
Crucial MX100 256GB
CORSAIR CX series CX600 600W
Corsair Carbide Series 200R Black Steel

Total: $1040

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($119.98 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Red Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($72.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($63.99 @ Amazon)
Other: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) ($30.99)
Total: $1007.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

You could also go mATX

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($109.00 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Red Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($72.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($98.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($63.99 @ Amazon)
Other: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) ($30.99)
Total: $1035.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

If you'd consider going used in the BST thread then this is a steal

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=118642289&postcount=12480

Warranty is transferable.
 

dark10x

Digital Foundry pixel pusher
Yeah, it is.

Well, I feel like this should be... better. Is there somewhere I can compare benchmarks with similar specs?
YbOAe1n.png
That is odd. Here's the Unigine test on my system which is weaker than your hardware. Though my CPU is overclocked quite a bit (which isn't made clear on the results screen). Dunno if that would make a difference.

 

lustrate

Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($119.98 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Red Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($72.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($63.99 @ Amazon)
Other: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) ($30.99)
Total: $1007.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

What do you think of this build? The Corsair PSU is a little cheaper at 750W than a Rosewill equivalent. This build comes in at $1093, and everything is available for Prime shipping.


PSU: Corsair CX Series 750 Watt ATX/EPS Modular 80 PLUS Bronze
GPU: Gigabyte R9 290 GDDR5-4GB
SSD: Crucial MX100 256GB
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Z97-A ATX DDR3 2600 LGA 1150
CASE: Corsair Carbide Series 200R
RAM: Kingston KHX16C9B1RK2/8&#8203;X HyperX Red 8GB
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K
 

kharma45

Member
What do you think of this build? The Corsair PSU is a little cheaper at 750W than a Rosewill equivalent. This build comes in at $1093, and everything is available for Prime shipping.


PSU: Corsair CX Series 750 Watt ATX/EPS Modular 80 PLUS Bronze
GPU: Gigabyte R9 290 GDDR5-4GB
SSD: Crucial MX100 256GB
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Z97-A ATX DDR3 2600 LGA 1150
CASE: Corsair Carbide Series 200R
RAM: Kingston KHX16C9B1RK2/8&#8203;X HyperX Red 8GB
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K

Err no it's not

The Rosewill is $16 cheaper than that Corsair.
 

Sinfamy

Member
Yep, but they were $15 when I got mine a couple months ago, it fluctuates based on supply and demand.

I can get any Microsoft product for free via DeamSpark from my school, never thought about selling them though, pretty sure its also against some terms somewhere.
 

SHADES

Member
I've been eye'ing a MSI GTX 760 4gb for a while at £200 but I've just noticed in my local ad's a EVGA GTX 670 FTW 2gb for around £120 with just under 2 years warranty remaining.

Is the GTX 670 worth a punt & can I run it on a EVGA 500w B PSU? (Connectors are the there for it 2x6/8 pin, just not sure on the output?) Or should I just stick with the 760?
 

kennah

Member
I've been eye'ing a MSI GTX 760 4gb for a while at £200 but I've just noticed in my local ad's a EVGA GTX 670 FTW 2gb for around £120 with just under 2 years warranty remaining.

Is the GTX 670 worth a punt & can I run it on a EVGA 500w B PSU? (Connectors are the there for it 2x6/8 pin, just not sure on the output?) Or should I just stick with the 760?

Yes and Yes. A 760 is literally a 670 with a different sticker.
 

SHADES

Member
Yes and Yes. A 760 is literally a 670 with a different sticker.

Ok thanks, my other option was a R9 280 but GPU boss puts the 670 & 280 at neck & neck so with the slightly less power consumption given my PSU I think I'll risk it for a biscuit on the 670 (now for haggling lol)
 

kennah

Member
Ok thanks, my other option was a R9 280 but GPU boss puts the 670 & 280 at neck & neck so with the slightly less power consumption given my PSU I think I'll risk it for a biscuit on the 670 (now for haggling lol)

GPUboss is a piece of shit. Just so you know. 280 is actually a fair amount faster than a 670/760.
 

SHADES

Member
GPUboss is a piece of shit. Just so you know. 280 is actually a fair amount faster than a 670/760.

Ah ok, which decent GPU comparison site would you recommend? I managed to get the guy to knock £10 off so will be collecting later this evening. I'll probably run the 670 until I've upped my PSU a little then look at the R9's or the maxwell's early in the new year.
 

kharma45

Member
*mutters* you've got less cuda cores and texture units

Thanks :) I figured they were the same. Gonna keep my 670 for years and years.

I thought they were the same too to be fair, and then remembered being surprised in the past when they weren't.

Part of me regrets not picking one up when they were £160, it's gonna be one of those cards with great longevity.
 

The Llama

Member
Was using wifi, and getting crappy download speeds (3-4 MB/s). Just hardwired it (its ~50 feet... gonna have to remove it or people will trip over it haha) and I was just downloading Titanfall at 50 MB/s. Oh internet...
 

SHADES

Member
I thought they were the same too to be fair, and then remembered being surprised in the past when they weren't.

Part of me regrets not picking one up when they were £160, it's gonna be one of those cards with great longevity.

Not quite. It's got less CUDA cores and less texture units than a 670.

*mutters* you've got less cuda cores and texture units

Thanks :) I figured they were the same. Gonna keep my 670 for years and years.

Thanks guys, I managed to find the output specs. Nvidia recommend a minimum of 30a on the 12v and my PSU pushes out 40a so no need to upgrade my PSU for a while, right?

Or, should I still look into putting a slightly beefier 550/600w unit in there just to be on the safe side?
 
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