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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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Amneisac

Member
I'm testing out my OC, starting slow - and I have a question about VCORE. A lot of what I'm reading says a VCORE of over 1.45v is bad for aircooled (which mine is). I have it manually set to 1.25v in the BIOS, but OCCT shows it spiking over 1.6v:

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Have I done something wrong? Is this dangerous?
 

DjRalford

Member
I'm testing out my OC, starting slow - and I have a question about VCORE. A lot of what I'm reading says a VCORE of over 1.45v is bad for aircooled (which mine is). I have it manually set to 1.25v in the BIOS, but OCCT shows it spiking over 1.6v:

Have I done something wrong? Is this dangerous?

Check your bios for any offset voltage settings relating to the CPU, although I thought that when you set vcore manually it deactivates the offset.
 

JamiieCarter

Neo Member
I've tried to aim between your 2 example price points with a few nice additions, an SSD is absolutely essential IMO:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£167.94 @ Scan.co.uk)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£24.25 @ Scan.co.uk)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£79.16 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Kingston Fury Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£114.24 @ CCL Computers)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£77.10 @ Scan.co.uk)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£60.04 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 290 4GB Tri-X Video Card (£295.55 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£43.32 @ Amazon UK)
Other: CoolerMaster Silencio 352 Black Matt Edition USB3 MicroATX Mini-ITX Case (£45.63)
Other: Powerline Adapters - 2x 200mb with AC passthrough (£22.98)
Total: £930.21

The powerline adapter listed is far preferable to wireless if you've got a single power circuit shared between your router and PC. There's also a non-passthrough version (£19.30) and a non-passthrough 500Mbps version (£24.99)

The 4690k is preferable to the 4670k for an extra couple of quid, the memory is cheaper and faster (not that this makes a huge difference depending on who you ask).

I've also changed the PSU to one of my favourite 600w units to save money without cutting down on quality - it's worth mentioning that this isn't modular though so it depends how happy you are about cable management in your chosen case - I have no experience with it.

The GPU is a step up from the 280x and provides GTX 780 levels of performance for a very reasonable price.

This is all completely flexible for your tastes and needs of course, I also thought I'd mention the Fractal Define Mini as an alternative silent mATX case, this will run you around £61.99.

Any questions please ask! :D

Thankyou for the ideas, I ordered the 16GB vengeance, the case in my part picker, the i5 and the Z97M from Amazon last night and got it through prime this morning. That said I'm probably going to go with a few of your ideas regarding the Power Supply and Graphics card!
 

JamiieCarter

Neo Member
Yeah, I've built four computers before this personally and I work in a freaking IT department so you'd think I'd know better. The only excuse I can make is I'm used to more 'pasty' thermal grease and this stuff was super thin, it's what came with the hyper 212 evo. I just got carried away.

I'm just glad I didn't short anything out.

As a guy who also works in an IT department, I'm the same! I know judge thermal pasting on a 'Pea Size'.
 

Stubo

Member
Thankyou for the ideas, I ordered the 16GB vengeance, the case in my part picker, the i5 and the Z97M from Amazon last night and got it through prime this morning. That said I'm probably going to go with a few of your ideas regarding the Power Supply and Graphics card!
Have you considered the SSD and powerline adapters? Using a system with an SSD for the system drive is really a whole new world to old hard drives. Everything's so much snappier, there's no chance I could go back now.

Powerline adapters are generally a much better connection than even the best wireless solutions, definitely have a read up at least before you order a wifi adapter.
 

Amneisac

Member
Check your bios for any offset voltage settings relating to the CPU, although I thought that when you set vcore manually it deactivates the offset.

I set it to "normal" and the offset is 0.0000v, so I don't get it. CPU-Z shows core voltage at 1.077 right now, but OCCT shows it at 1.46V under load.

Also, is the voltage damaging to the processor itself or is it the heat? Because I've run it under load for 5 minutes (scared to do much longer) and temps never go over 57c for any of the four cores even though OCCT says it's peaking at 1.46V.
 

JamiieCarter

Neo Member
Have you considered the SSD and powerline adapters? Using a system with an SSD for the system drive is really a whole new world to old hard drives. Everything's so much snappier, there's no chance I could go back now.

Powerline adapters are generally a much better connection than even the best wireless solutions, definitely have a read up at least before you order a wifi adapter.

I already ordered a 512gb SSD a month ago, it's awaiting its place in the case! I already have some power line adapters, but I'm probably going to go for a wifi adapter!
 

Stubo

Member
I already ordered a 512gb SSD a month ago, it's awaiting its place in the case! I already have some power line adapters, but I'm probably going to go for a wifi adapter!
Oh awesome! 512Gb should give you plenty of room. Why would you prefer wifi if you don't mind me asking? It only makes sense to me for portable devices.
 

DjRalford

Member
I set it to "normal" and the offset is 0.0000v, so I don't get it. CPU-Z shows core voltage at 1.077 right now, but OCCT shows it at 1.46V under load.

Also, is the voltage damaging to the processor itself or is it the heat? Because I've run it under load for 5 minutes (scared to do much longer) and temps never go over 57c for any of the four cores even though OCCT says it's peaking at 1.46V.

If it is only hitting that temp full load it is in no way pulling 1.4+v

It may just be a reporting issue, I use to use HW monitor until it reported my vcore at 1.8v, had me in a blind panic, but HWINFO64 logged it at what it was in the bios, and beside 1.8v would be one mega mega toasty chip.
 

Amneisac

Member
If it is only hitting that temp full load it is in no way pulling 1.4+v

It may just be a reporting issue, I use to use HW monitor until it reported my vcore at 1.8v, had me in a blind panic, but HWINFO64 logged it at what it was in the bios, and beside 1.8v would be one mega mega toasty chip.

I hope so! Is there a more reliable reporting tool? I'm a little concerned I might have a really bad chip, though.
 
So I'm finally upgrading to a gaming pc from my old laptop with help from links in this thread :D. Anyway, I'm wondering if an fx 8350 with an r9 280x should be able to run skyrim with some graphic mods like enb or even tropical skyrim well.

Also sorry if we're not supposed to ask if games run well with whatever setup
 

kharma45

Member
So I'm finally upgrading to a gaming pc from my old laptop with help from links in this thread :D. Anyway, I'm wondering if an fx 8350 with an r9 280x should be able to run skyrim with some graphic mods like enb or even tropical skyrim well.

Also sorry if we're not supposed to ask if games run well with whatever setup

Have you already bought the 8350? If not change your sights to an i5.
 

Amneisac

Member
So, I'm starting to suspect for some reason OCCT isn't reading my VCORE properly. I have it manually set in the BIOS to 1.25v.

CPUZ has it dead locked on 1.25v.

HWmonitor shows 1.28v under load, but OCCT says it's at 1.68v under load:


The temps are fine, they're staying under 60c, but I'm still freaked out by that number.
 

DjRalford

Member
So, I'm starting to suspect for some reason OCCT isn't reading my VCORE properly. I have it manually set in the BIOS to 1.25v.

CPUZ has it dead locked on 1.25v.

HWmonitor shows 1.28v under load, but OCCT says it's at 1.68v under load:



The temps are fine, they're staying under 60c, but I'm still freaked out by that number.

Trust me, at 1.6v on air you chip would hit over 100 and throttle as soon as you ran a stress test, it's a misreading.
 
Have you already bought the 8350? If not change your sights to an i5.

Not yet. Really it was just gonna be a temporary thing until around December when I hope to get even better parts. What model i5 around that price range would be good though because I also plan on playing a lot of civ with a lot of civilizations
 

kharma45

Member
Not yet. Really it was just gonna be a temporary thing until around December when I hope to get even better parts. What model i5 around that price range would be good though because I also plan on playing a lot of civ with a lot of civilizations

4670K/4690K.

Much, much better choices. They'd be long term CPUs too.
 

Amneisac

Member
Trust me, at 1.6v on air you chip would hit over 100 and throttle as soon as you ran a stress test, it's a misreading.

Hahahah, thanks. Well, I ran PRIME95, and it's kicking my computer's ass way harder than the OCCT test was.

Temps are creeping towards 80c max, which is my upper limit I was shooting for. Kind of disappointing at only a 4.0ghz OC on a 4690k, right?

 
4670K/4690K.

Much, much better choices. They'd be long term CPUs too.

Thanks! This is my current planned build:

CPU: AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus M5A97 R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

But I'll definitely try to make a build with what you recommended and compare them
 

DjRalford

Member
Hahahah, thanks. Well, I ran PRIME95, and it's kicking my computer's ass way harder than the OCCT test was.

Temps are creeping towards 80c max, which is my upper limit I was shooting for. Kind of disappointing at only a 4.0ghz OC on a 4690k, right?

They are hot chips.

My 4790k hits 60c at 1.135v on prime max heat, and that's on a h100i, I can run mine at 4.8ghz 1.28v prime stable but temps go to 80c, 4.6ghz is a happy medium with 1.2v and 70c max temps.

I'm running stock for now as I have no need for more than 4.4Ghz at this time, nice to know what it can do when it begins getting long in the legs later on though.
 

kharma45

Member
Thanks! This is my current planned build:

CPU: AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus M5A97 R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

But I'll definitely try to make a build with what you recommended and compare them

I'd be changing that case and PSU too. Buying in the US? Budget?
 

Amneisac

Member
They are hot chips.

My 4790k hits 60c at 1.135v on prime max heat, and that's on a h100i, I can run mine at 4.8ghz 1.28v prime stable but temps go to 80c, 4.6ghz is a happy medium with 1.2v and 70c max temps.

I'm running stock for now as I have no need for more than 4.4Ghz at this time, nice to know what it can do when it begins getting long in the legs later on though.

Just so I'm on the same page, when you say 'max temp' do you literally mean the max temp that you'd see in something like hwmonitor or OCCT? The reason I ask is most of the time during the Prime95 test, temps are in the 60s, but at one point they peaked at about 81c in the hottest core. Should I consider 81 my max temp or do you kind of consider the median temp?
 

ElyrionX

Member
I am currently running a dual monitor setup connected to my 560Ti via two separate DVI cables. Is it possible to hook up my TV to clone my main display? Currently, I can disconnect my second monitor and use a DVI-VGA cable to connect my TV to my PC and then set the option in windows to have the TV clone my main monitor. But I lose access to my second monitor this way.

I was thinking that a regular DVI splitter cable might do the trick if I hook up my main monitor DVI cable and the DVI-VGA cable from the TV into the DVI splitter which then connects to my 560Ti. My secondary monitor cable would then be connected to the other slot on the 560Ti. Therefore, the video signal from my 560Ti for my main monitor would be split into two; one running to my main monitor and one running to my PC. Is this possible? Will it lead to picture degradation on my monitor or TV?

EDIT: Also, I can't use the mini HDMI port on 560Ti. The damn thing doesn't play nice with my case and it's physically impossible to squeeze a mini-HDMI plug into it as there's very little space in that slot. Plus, my TV is a pretty old Sony and it doesn't seem to play nice with my PC. I don't get an image on my TV via HDMI to the PC no matter what I do. VGA is my only option on this TV.
 

DjRalford

Member
Just so I'm on the same page, when you say 'max temp' do you literally mean the max temp that you'd see in something like hwmonitor or OCCT? The reason I ask is most of the time during the Prime95 test, temps are in the 60s, but at one point they peaked at about 81c in the hottest core. Should I consider 81 my max temp or do you kind of consider the median temp?

The highest temp seen on one core, I have 3 cores which run within 3c of each other and another which is 9c cooler,I always take the hottest single core as my max temp.
 

Mozendo

Member
Thanks! This is my current planned build:

CPU: AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus M5A97 R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

But I'll definitely try to make a build with what you recommended and compare them

Don't mean to butt in since I may be wrong, but try getting a different brand graphics card.

Used to own an XFX 7970, and the cooling performance was absolutely terrible. I asked around to see if anyone else had cooling issues with their XFX card and most of the replies had the same issues. Turns out XFX's Double Dissipation were known for their bad heating.

I'm not sure if they've improved their cooling perfomance, but if you can try going with a different brand.
 
Don't mean to butt in since I may be wrong, but try getting a different brand graphics card.

Used to own an XFX 7970, and the cooling performance was absolutely terrible. I asked around to see if anyone else had cooling issues with their XFX card and most of the replies had the same issues. Turns out XFX's Double Dissipation were known for their bad heating.

I'm not sure if they've improved their cooling perfomance, but if you can try going with a different brand.

Ok i'll definitely look at other cards. This is gonna be the first pc i've built and mostly I was just looking at pcpartpicker.com. I probably would have been better off asking for help in this thread haha
 
$771 for this

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Red Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 280 3GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($46.00 @ Newegg)
Total: $770.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

Thanks for the help!
 

kharma45

Member
No worries. If you can afford it an SSD is worth adding in but you're talking $75 or so for the smallest we'd recommend, unless there are any going in the BST thread.

Still, that build is a better rounded one than the 8350 build. You could save a tad by going for a non-modular PSU, as the EVGA 500B is $15 less. Depends on how much you value modularity.
 
No worries. If you can afford it an SSD is worth adding in but you're talking $75 or so for the smallest we'd recommend, unless there are any going in the BST thread.

Still, that build is a better rounded one than the 8350 build. You could save a tad by going for a non-modular PSU, as the EVGA 500B is $15 less. Depends on how much you value modularity.

The extra $15 is fine haha. Later in the year I'm most likely going to upgrade the cpu to an i7 and add another gpu for crossfire
 

kharma45

Member
The extra $15 is fine haha. Later in the year I'm most likely going to upgrade the cpu to an i7 and add another gpu for crossfire

I doubt you'll need an i7 by that stage, especially if you're just gaming, and a single GPU would be a better buy. No multi GPU headaches and you'd also need to replace the PSU too.

A good single card is always a better option.
 
I doubt you'll need an i7 by that stage, especially if you're just gaming, and a single GPU would be a better buy. No multi GPU headaches and you'd also need to replace the PSU too.

A good single card is always a better option.

Oh ok. In that case I feel like I should just go for a better gpu now and wait for a while to upgrade. What kind of gpu should I go for in that case? Like I said I wanna play a lot of skyrim with some heavy graphics mods, so do you know what would be decent for that?
 

Filth

Member
Guys I'm having a weird situation. I just built a new PC and it's the first time I'm using a sata drive. It was working great for the first month / 2. I had 2 regular hard drives also connected which I used just to install programs / music so on. The sata drive only had my operating system on it and past coue of days I got the failed bootmnger message during boot up. Repairing with the windows 7 cd didn't fix it but I could go into my bios and click on the drive and it would actually load. I had to boot up with this method for 2 days. Last night I got more errors and couldn't figure out why so I reinstalled windows 7 on the sata drive. After that I got hard drive errors saying it needs to be repaired. So it goes into this repair mode and says sectors are bad and it just freezes on that. Restarted and had the same thing numerous times. I finally said fuck it and disconnected and installed windows on another partion. I'm using a Samsung 300 gig sata drive. Is this sort of thing normal? Did my sata drive go bad within a month?

Sorry for the block of text. I'm on my phone at a barber shop :p
 

kharma45

Member
Oh ok. In that case I feel like I should just go for a better gpu now and wait for a while to upgrade. What kind of gpu should I go for in that case? Like I said I wanna play a lot of skyrim with some heavy graphics mods, so do you know what would be decent for that?

280/280X is a good sweet spot with 3GB VRAM. Not a huge performance difference between them either. R9 290 is another worth looking at, this is the best value one of those http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

From the Nvidia side the 780 is a good card too. Not quite the same value proposition that the 290 is but a good card nonetheless.

It's a $150 jump over the 280. You could always PM this dude to see if his 290 for $300 is still available http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=119026769&postcount=12720 Warranty is transferable with ASUS cards.
 
280/280X is a good sweet spot with 3GB VRAM. Not a huge performance difference between them either. R9 290 is another worth looking at, this is the best value one of those http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

From the Nvidia side the 780 is a good card too. Not quite the same value proposition that the 290 is but a good card nonetheless.

It's a $150 jump over the 280. You could always PM this dude to see if his 290 for $300 is still available http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=119026769&postcount=12720 Warranty is transferable with ASUS cards.

You've been a massive help. I should be ordering all this soon I can't wait
 

The Llama

Member
Hahahah, thanks. Well, I ran PRIME95, and it's kicking my computer's ass way harder than the OCCT test was.

Temps are creeping towards 80c max, which is my upper limit I was shooting for. Kind of disappointing at only a 4.0ghz OC on a 4690k, right?

Do OCCT with the Small Data Set. That seems to get my 4790k the hottest (and is IMO the best way to check for stability).
 

Amneisac

Member
The highest temp seen on one core, I have 3 cores which run within 3c of each other and another which is 9c cooler,I always take the hottest single core as my max temp.

Okay, awesome! I guess I should have also asked, which of the Prime95 tests should I be running?

Do OCCT with the Small Data Set. That seems to get my 4790k the hottest (and is IMO the best way to check for stability).

I'll try that, too. I ran just the default OCCT test and it didn't do much, my temps never got over 65, but Prime 95 is taking my computer to terrible places...
 

Filth

Member
Guys I'm having a weird situation. I just built a new PC and it's the first time I'm using a sata drive. It was working great for the first month / 2. I had 2 regular hard drives also connected which I used just to install programs / music so on. The sata drive only had my operating system on it and past coue of days I got the failed bootmnger message during boot up. Repairing with the windows 7 cd didn't fix it but I could go into my bios and click on the drive and it would actually load. I had to boot up with this method for 2 days. Last night I got more errors and couldn't figure out why so I reinstalled windows 7 on the sata drive. After that I got hard drive errors saying it needs to be repaired. So it goes into this repair mode and says sectors are bad and it just freezes on that. Restarted and had the same thing numerous times. I finally said fuck it and disconnected and installed windows on another partion. I'm using a Samsung 300 gig sata drive. Is this sort of thing normal? Did my sata drive go bad within a month?

Sorry for the block of text. I'm on my phone at a barber shop :p




Now I'm getting errors on my other hard drive. Won't even boot into windows. Geez.
 

Amneisac

Member
Now I'm getting errors on my other hard drive. Won't even boot into windows. Geez.

I'm no expert, but it could be bad memory if you're getting it on multiple hard drives. The data might not be written back to drive correctly? You could try memtest on your RAM and a drive fitness test on your hard drives.
 

LilJoka

Member
Okay, awesome! I guess I should have also asked, which of the Prime95 tests should I be running?



I'll try that, too. I ran just the default OCCT test and it didn't do much, my temps never got over 65, but Prime 95 is taking my computer to terrible places...

For Prime95 the best way to test your overclock is by running it like so
Click Blend, Click Custom, Enter a good amount of RAM to test, for 16GB, i usually test 12000MB. Then Run that. It will use then stress all components of the board and CPU to their maximum.

Also try not to have so many monitoring software open. They can interefere with one another giving bogus readings. I use CPUz for the Vcore and Realtemp for the CPU temps. I dont use HWMonitor because it polls a bazillion sensors every second that arent needed while running tests.

The small data set in OCCT is running Intel LinPack i believe, which usually does result in the hottest temperatures, but doesnt necessarily stress all components.

Now I'm getting errors on my other hard drive. Won't even boot into windows. Geez.

What are the exact HDDs you have? Try to run a SMART check using CrystalMark Disk Info.
 
Guys I'm having a weird situation. I just built a new PC and it's the first time I'm using a sata drive. It was working great for the first month / 2. I had 2 regular hard drives also connected which I used just to install programs / music so on. The sata drive only had my operating system on it and past coue of days I got the failed bootmnger message during boot up. Repairing with the windows 7 cd didn't fix it but I could go into my bios and click on the drive and it would actually load. I had to boot up with this method for 2 days. Last night I got more errors and couldn't figure out why so I reinstalled windows 7 on the sata drive. After that I got hard drive errors saying it needs to be repaired. So it goes into this repair mode and says sectors are bad and it just freezes on that. Restarted and had the same thing numerous times. I finally said fuck it and disconnected and installed windows on another partion. I'm using a Samsung 300 gig sata drive. Is this sort of thing normal? Did my sata drive go bad within a month?

Sorry for the block of text. I'm on my phone at a barber shop :p

Seriously sounds like a bad hdd.
 

Filth

Member
For Prime95 the best way to test your overclock is by running it like so
Click Blend, Click Custom, Enter a good amount of RAM to test, for 16GB, i usually test 12000MB. Then Run that. It will use then stress all components of the board and CPU to their maximum.

Also try not to have so many monitoring software open. They can interefere with one another giving bogus readings. I use CPUz for the Vcore and Realtemp for the CPU temps. I dont use HWMonitor because it polls a bazillion sensors every second that arent needed while running tests.

The small data set in OCCT is running Intel LinPack i believe, which usually does result in the hottest temperatures, but doesnt necessarily stress all components.



What are the exact HDDs you have? Try to run a SMART check using CrystalMark Disk Info.



The sata drive was a samsung 1 month old. The other were hard drives I've had for a few years. The brand that starts with a w. I was thinking maybe the cable went bad? I had 1 cable connecting them all.
 
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