The Lamonster
Member
Perfecto. Didn't even know a power line network adapter existed. Thanks dudes!
That thing looks great, I was thinking cans of compressed air but they're quiet expensive, I'm not American but the blower ships international, thanks man.
Btw is it safe blowing air to internal components at such a high pressure? I thought there was a risk of electrostatic discharges or something?
You would get a good boost out of a 780. Flip it in a couple months when the 800s are released, and you should only be $150-200 out of pocket for an 880.This is my current build:
CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core
CPU Cooler
Corsair H60 74.4 CFM Liquid
Motherboard
Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600
Storage
Samsung 840 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" SSD
Samsung 840 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" SSD
Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM
Video Card
Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB
Case
Antec P280 ATX Mid Tower
Power Supply
Corsair 750W
I am using a 1440p monitor, and trying to achieve 60fps on the majority of games I play. I feel like my card might be getting pretty long in the tooth with some of the games. Sometimes I will just try to play the games in 1080p to get the framerate up.
I was thinking of putting down maybe 500 bucks or less on a upgrade, probably going towards a Nvidia card because the Shield has been perking my interest.
Am I living in a false reality where I think my 7950 isnt cutting it anymore? Would it be a waste to upgrade right now? Or would it be more wise to upgrade my CPU?
It is awesome. I've used it for almost a year now, and it's one of the best computer cleaning tools I've used for mine, and others I do it for. I wouldn't put it point blank into the exhaust of the GPU, or something like that. Also, when using it, if you're cleaning fans like 120mm case fans / CPU cooler fans, that you hold them in place while doing it. You run this risk of fucking them up if you make them spin too fast, since this thing is really powerful. Additionally, it is very loud since it is such a beast. As far as electrostatic discharge is concerned, I haven't had an issue, and I haven't read about anyone having an issue with this particular blower, so I wouldn't worry about it too much.
All the people who help with PC hardware here are Intel employees, so probably.
I kid.
You would get a good boost out of a 780. Flip it in a couple months when the 800s are released, and you should only be $150-200 out of pocket for an 880.
If that doesn't seem worth it, I'd probably hold out just a bit longer, or consider a used 290 to hold you over.
I just built my new PC yesterday, and things didn't go quite as smoothly as I had hoped.
The build:
CPU: Intel 4790k
Mobo: Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H
GPU: EVGA NVidia 780 Ti
RAM: G.Skill Sniper DDR3 2400 (1.65v)
PSU: CM 750V
Storage:
....256GB SSD Samsung 840 Pro
....512GB SSD Crucial MX100
....2TB HDD WD Black
OS: Windows 8.1 Pro
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro (w/ Window)
CPU Heatsink: CM Hyper 212 EVO.
Optical drive: Some ASUS DVD drive.
Issues I had:
1) The BIOS version that came with the motherboard, F5, did NOT play nicely with the 4790k. With everything on Auto, it set the Vcore voltage to 1.35v. Ridiculously high! I flashed the BIOS to the latest version, F7, and the Vcore is now a much more appropriate 1.175v on auto.
2) Setting up the BIOS to work properly with Windows 8 (+Secure boot) felt more complicated than it needed to be. Setting the OS mode to Windows 8 was simple enough, and that's all that was necessary to get Windows 8 installed in UEFI mode instead of legacy mode. To get secure boot working though, I needed to disable CSM, and change the SecureBoot settings from Standard to Custom, then go into the key manager and install the default keys. Standard simply didn't work, don't know why.
3) Apparently this bios has a silly bug: If you switch to classic mode, then exit without saving, you can't boot into windows without resetting! This scared me the first time it happened, thought I messed up my installation somehow. (Learned about this here.)
Issue I'm currently having (and need some assistance with):
My fans are too loud at idle. How are you supposed to wire your fans with the fan hub that comes with the Enthoo Pro? Right now, I have two things that use the 4th PWM pin: The fan hub, and the CPU fan. The mobo only has a single PWM header: CPU_FAN. And the fan hub only has 3 pin outputs. I just connected the CPU fan to the hub, with the 4th pin not connected to anything. Is that correct? I've set the CPU_FAN header to the "Silent" setting in the BIOS. At idle, and at around 30C temps, my CPU fan is spinning at ~1450 RPM according to HWInfo. Its minimum is ~600. This seems too high. Might I have to get a proper fan hub with PWM outputs?
Other remarks:
Will try to overclock after I fix the fans. Can only hope that I got a good CPU. I'm going to stress test the stock clocks before that though, since I'm worried I might not have much headroom.
I just built my new PC yesterday, and things didn't go quite as smoothly as I had hoped.
The build:
CPU: Intel 4790k
Mobo: Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H
GPU: EVGA NVidia 780 Ti
RAM: G.Skill Sniper DDR3 2400 (1.65v)
PSU: CM 750V
Storage:
....256GB SSD Samsung 840 Pro
....512GB SSD Crucial MX100
....2TB HDD WD Black
OS: Windows 8.1 Pro
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro (w/ Window)
CPU Heatsink: CM Hyper 212 EVO.
Optical drive: Some ASUS DVD drive.
Issues I had:
1) The BIOS version that came with the motherboard, F5, did NOT play nicely with the 4790k. With everything on Auto, it set the Vcore voltage to 1.35v. Ridiculously high! I flashed the BIOS to the latest version, F7, and the Vcore is now a much more appropriate 1.175v on auto.
Ugh tell me about about it. Fucking Gigabyte, man. Before flashing the BIOS it was volting my 4790k at 1.46v. Absolutely insane. The board has been fine now, but the fact that it required a flash is enough or me not to recommend the board to others. Lucky it has dual bios, so if the flash goes bad the board isn't a brick.
I'm curious as you are the first person I've come across with the same board, CPU and cooler as me. What kind of temps are you getting in games? I turned off turbo boost for the time being. I usually idle in the mid 30's and games don't usually go above the low 60's for me.
I have built my PC over the weekend and all seems well. Praise Cthulhu!
I have one small issue. When i boot for the first few times i get "CPU Fan Error".
If i restart a few times it boots normally.
I'm using the Corsair H100i to cool my 4770k. Is there something in the BIOS i need to change?
Anyone?
I'm curious as you are the first person I've come across with the same board, CPU and cooler as me. What kind of temps are you getting in games? I turned off turbo boost for the time being. I usually idle in the mid 30's and games don't usually go above the low 60's for me.
As noted above, the minimum fan speed before the warning appears is ridiculously high because it is setup for the stock fan cooler, which runs at super high RPM. Just disable the warning in BIOS.Anyone?
You would get a good boost out of a 780. Flip it in a couple months when the 800s are released, and you should only be $150-200 out of pocket for an 880.
If that doesn't seem worth it, I'd probably hold out just a bit longer, or consider a used 290 to hold you over.
Hey guys, new build is done! Gleaned a lot of advice from this thread, so thanks for all the help. Here are my specs:
Asus Maximus IV Hero
Intel i7 4770k
Noctua DH14 ( love this freaking cooler, man!)
16gb DDR3
Gigabyte Windforce 780
I have a question, need some assistance really. First, how can I get the most out of my build? Is overclocking safe, easy, necessary? I do a lot of 3ds max, photoshop and zbrush.
Also, I have a 120GB SSD and a 1TB harddrive. I goofed and installed a ton of crap on the SSD and now I'm running out of space fast (the ssd has the windows install on it). How, or I guess, can I move or install programs onto the D:/ drive and run them like normal? I have tried but it didn't seem to work. (tried to install 3ds max to that drive and wasn't successful)...
Thanks for all the help guys.
Hey guys, I have a question. I've been noticing that I've had a couple of issues with my card that I got from Amazon and just wanted to see if it's either the card or another component causing problems in the build. I got an MSI 290 from Amazon warehouse for $300 since the Gigabytes were sold out. I was having screen flickering issues that seems to have been a result of the cable I was using. With that fixed, my other issues have been crashing with a slight overclock and my gpu usage being all over the place when playing games according to Afterburner's OSD. Most recently, I've been playing Witcher 2 and I see that besides I guess the cutscenes when they first load up, its mostly 60fps. Any ideas?
Windows has been pretty good over the past few years in recognizing hardware change but some drivers are drastic enough changes that you may not successfully boot the first time. I remember Vista used to require reactivation if you made enough hardware changes that the OS thinks its a different PC.
Putting together a new computer and I was wondering if I could get some feed back on this build:
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card
Case: Corsair 450D ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)
Your laptop will send a digital signal from your HDMI out that your VGA (analog) monitor will not recognize.hey guys quick question, i have a laptop with hdmi output and a monitor with only vga. can i use this cable?
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/vga-to-hdmi-cable-m-m-6-black/212694386.html
it has warnings at the link but i think they apply if ur going vga to hdmi, im hdmi to vga
Check to see if anywires or paper tags attached to wires are getting hit by case/gpu fansQuick question: a few months ago, my GPU started making a slight buzzing noise. It only happens on certain games, and only when something is being rendered. Definitely not coil whine, it sounds like when you hold a pieced of paper or something in a fan. It's not the fans though (although there was an incident with the fan around the time this started, but I ruled that out already). I have to put my ear right next to the case to hear it when it's happening, but it's still there.
I've played probably 20 hours worth of games on it since the buzzing started, and noticed no difference in performance from before it started. I'm just paranoid that the noise is indicative of a possible failure in the future, specifically one that could harm all the other parts.
My question is basically this; should I be concerenced that whatever is causing this could hurt my whole build? Or will it be self contained if it becomes a bigger issue in the future? And should I even be worrying about this noise? I'd imagine that PC parts have safety features to stop one part from ruining another, but this is my first PC so I'm not sure.
Nope, they're not. I even readjusted some wires thinking that was it, but nope. It's definitely related to when the GPU is rendering, but only on some games, and with no effect on performance.Check to see if anywires or paper tags attached to wires are getting hit by case/gpu fans
I mean, if you can afford it, bigger can't hurt. But I think 256 is fine as long as you have a big storage drive for games and such. Better to put the saved money into better other parts IMO.MX100 256gb vs 512gb... This will be my first SSD
Looks nice. Do you have the prices and your budget? There's not much I'd change (The Llama has covered most of it already) but since you're using a mATX motherboard you could change that huge 450D for the smaller 350D - that might save you some money too.Putting together a new computer and I was wondering if I could get some feed back on this build:
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card
Case: Corsair 450D ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)
Your laptop will send a digital signal from your HDMI out that your VGA (analog) monitor will not recognize.
So I installed my Samsung 840 EVO and what a differenc coming from a HDD! Such a shame though that Samsung doesn't include screws in the packaging though! For now I've taped my SSD onto the bracket... #ghettostyle. But seriously, what the fuck Samsung?
Also I need a new virus-scanner/firewall software. Any reccomendations?
So I installed my Samsung 840 EVO and what a differenc coming from a HDD! Such a shame though that Samsung doesn't include screws in the packaging though! For now I've taped my SSD onto the bracket... #ghettostyle. But seriously, what the fuck Samsung?
Also I need a new virus-scanner/firewall software. Any reccomendations?
Make sure to install the Samsung magician software.
When you do, use it to benchmark your read / write.
Activate RAPID mode.
Benchmark again.
See the difference it makes!
Don't get too excited about rapid mode.
http://techreport.com/review/25282/a-closer-look-at-rapid-dram-caching-on-the-samsung-840-evo-ssd
It costs 1GB of system memory and doesn't exactly set the world on fire, especially if you're mostly playing games. It's just a RAMdisk cache.
Is it possible to swap a CPU for another without re-installing the OS? (i5 3570k with an i7 4790k, both LGA1150).
Shouldn't have an issue. You may need to reinstall the chipset drivers, check device manager to be sure.
Make sure to install the Samsung magician software.
When you do, use it to benchmark your read / write.
Activate RAPID mode.
Benchmark again.
See the difference it makes!
Don't they have a separate sku for ones that do have screws and brackets etc? You probably got the barebones laptop kit
I just use Microsoft Security Essentials with Windows firewall and Malwarebytes free. No viruses here.
Don't get too excited about rapid mode.
http://techreport.com/review/25282/a-closer-look-at-rapid-dram-caching-on-the-samsung-840-evo-ssd
It costs 1GB of system memory and doesn't exactly set the world on fire, especially if you're mostly playing games. It's just a RAMdisk cache.
Is it possible to swap a CPU for another without re-installing the OS? (i5 3570k with an i7 4790k, both LGA1150).
Shouldn't have an issue. You may need to reinstall the chipset drivers, check device manager to be sure.
WOAH. STOP.Nice, I was always under the impressive that changing a CPU was a massive thing. That'll make everything a whole lot easier.
WOAH. STOP.
3570 is socket 1155
4790 is socket 1150.
They are not compatible!
Best chip for socket 1155 is the 3770k
So I might have a problem...
my video card ( gainward gtx 760 phantom) seems to be fucked. when I turned on my PC this moring the monitor stayed black, when I was watching house of cards last eveining everything was fine. I then removed my GPU and connected my monitor to my onboard graphics card and it worked. so it got to the my GPU. its fans are running and when I put in the HDMI cable my monitor seems to recognize there's something as he goes from standby to normal mode, but immediately tells me "no signal". I removed all my graphics drivers, but that didn't work.
anything else I could try?
If still doesn´t work, does you mobo have another PCIe slot so you could test it? ( Assuming you didn´t already)