Soyongdori
Member
So can I just manually delete the current driver before installing the new gpu or after?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Do it before, and use this: http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html
You can run Display Driver Uninstaller to clear out all traces of old drivers, it'll do more than you can manually do.
Yep. Microsoft is keeping quiet about the release date, but so far all information we know points to July, like the slip of the tongue from AMD's CEO.
Nostremitus
Member
Clicked the link. It says that Microsoft has confirmed that Windows 10 will be the last ever version of the Windows OS? WTH?
They're moving to a new system of rolling updates rather than successive releases every couple of years.
So if I have a GTX 780 and i5-2500k what's a good next step? I'll probably hang on to this card for no more than another year, not totally sure though.
Pretty annoyed with Nvidia's shitty support of not-very-old cards lately so I'm curious about the r9-380x. Not looking to spend more than $300 or $400.
Also curious about just jumping ship to a r9-290x now, could probably eBay my 780 and break even on the deal. Would it be a stupid move?
Pretty annoyed with Nvidia's shitty support of not-very-old cards lately so I'm curious about the r9-380x. Not looking to spend more than $300 or $400.
Also curious about just jumping ship to a r9-290x now, could probably eBay my 780 and break even on the deal. Would it be a stupid move?
I'm looking to buy a new Monitor with my PC that's 1440p.
Usage: Video Editing, Web, Daily use & Lite Gaming.
Monitor 1: BenQ BL3200PT 32-inch
or
Monitor 2: ASUS PB278Q 27-Inch(2015 Version)
or
Monitor 3: Samsung 32" (S32D850T)
which one is better monitor or is their something better to get?
Usage: Video Editing, Web, Daily use & Lite Gaming.
Monitor 1: BenQ BL3200PT 32-inch
or
Monitor 2: ASUS PB278Q 27-Inch(2015 Version)
or
Monitor 3: Samsung 32" (S32D850T)
which one is better monitor or is their something better to get?
Nope
thanks
Just installed windows 10 on sunday night onto a brand new SSD, freeing up 2TB for other shit along with my 3TB of NAS for the home network. Redownloaded my steam collection yesterday, just finished:
lol, 370GB in a day, fuck me.
anyhow, my current specs are as such:
i7-3770 @ 4ghz
8GB DDR3
GTX 970
I'm pretty much sorted now, right? SSD, lots of storage, decent graphics and processor. yeah? Pretty happy with my system now.
lol, 370GB in a day, fuck me.
anyhow, my current specs are as such:
i7-3770 @ 4ghz
8GB DDR3
GTX 970
I'm pretty much sorted now, right? SSD, lots of storage, decent graphics and processor. yeah? Pretty happy with my system now.
Ah...for some reasons I thought motherboards come with graphics chip...I guess not then. My Radeon is a bit bit for my case but it still fits alright. Well I have no choice but to use it for a while the.
A long long time ago they did, but I don't think any have since the core 2 days.
Wrong. X79 days
In other news I need to get on the OC train again. Got a 5.3GHz to boot last weekend. Im feeling a suicide run at 1.8v once skylake drops.
I like HWMonitor, it lists a lot of details like device temperatures and fan speeds and voltages in one window.
charlequin
Banned
Well, I've certainly learned some lessons about building a SFF system today. 
Here's where I left off when I tapped out for the evening:
On the plus side, this has (so far) had fewer total issues than my last build, where a bent fan cable and a RAM problem kept me sidelined for a bit. On the minus side, there was what looked like a slightly bent pin on the mobo which I'm hoping I succeeded in getting in shape. This thing is also chock full of cables that take up way more space than I think is ideal; the PSU I got is very nice overall, but the cables designed for big boxes and feeding multiple components per cable take up a lot of space and get challenging to manage.
Another update tomorrow when I finish tucking everything away and verify that I can get the damn thing to power on. Thanks for the people with suggestions on the build tho!
Here's where I left off when I tapped out for the evening:
On the plus side, this has (so far) had fewer total issues than my last build, where a bent fan cable and a RAM problem kept me sidelined for a bit. On the minus side, there was what looked like a slightly bent pin on the mobo which I'm hoping I succeeded in getting in shape. This thing is also chock full of cables that take up way more space than I think is ideal; the PSU I got is very nice overall, but the cables designed for big boxes and feeding multiple components per cable take up a lot of space and get challenging to manage.
Another update tomorrow when I finish tucking everything away and verify that I can get the damn thing to power on. Thanks for the people with suggestions on the build tho!
That's why this is so nice:Well, I've certainly learned some lessons about building a SFF system today.
On the plus side, this has (so far) had fewer total issues than my last build, where a bent fan cable and a RAM problem kept me sidelined for a bit. On the minus side, there was what looked like a slightly bent pin on the mobo which I'm hoping I succeeded in getting in shape. This thing is also chock full of cables that take up way more space than I think is ideal; the PSU I got is very nice overall, but the cables designed for big boxes and feeding multiple components per cable take up a lot of space and get challenging to manage.
Another update tomorrow when I finish tucking everything away and verify that I can get the damn thing to power on. Thanks for the people with suggestions on the build tho!
charlequin
Banned
Well, I've certainly learned some lessons about building a SFF system today.
On the plus side, this has (so far) had fewer total issues than my last build, where a bent fan cable and a RAM problem kept me sidelined for a bit. On the minus side, there was what looked like a slightly bent pin on the mobo which I'm hoping I succeeded in getting in shape. This thing is also chock full of cables that take up way more space than I think is ideal; the PSU I got is very nice overall, but the cables designed for big boxes and feeding multiple components per cable take up a lot of space and get challenging to manage.
Another update tomorrow when I finish tucking everything away and verify that I can get the damn thing to power on. Thanks for the people with suggestions on the build tho!
Well the Node 304 isn't exactly 100% cable management friendly, so it's difficult to get around that aspect. Otherwise, your build seems to be coming along well.
HWMonitor doesn't do fan control, so if you want to manage your fans' speed or profiles, you'll need to use either the Asus Fan Xpert utility or some other program to do that (I dunno if something like Speedfan will work as well).
And you might want the Asus software for USB 3.0 speed boost, although it isn't necessary.
So I'm prepared to order a 970 tomorrow for $325. It will be replacing my 760. I'm pretty sure this is what I want to do, but is there any reason at all I shouldn't? I know about the whole 3.5GB of VRAM thing, and I know new cards may be releasing soon.
Also, do we have a date on when Windows 10 releases? And if I'm upgrading from 7, will I be able to burn an ISO of 10 to a disc and install it on a different drive (I want to have my OS on an SSD from now on)?
Also, do we have a date on when Windows 10 releases? And if I'm upgrading from 7, will I be able to burn an ISO of 10 to a disc and install it on a different drive (I want to have my OS on an SSD from now on)?
970 is a nice card, memory issues or not. I like mine a whole lot.
We still do not have a precise Windows 10 release date, but the recent signs point to RTM getting published in the middle of July. Expect the boxed retail copies to be available around August or September by the latest.
As for upgrading from Windows 7 - if you have an OEM key and you replace your hard drive, your key will become invalid. If you have a retail Windows 7 key, expect to reinstall Windows 7 on your new HDD and then upgrade to 10 from there.
None of us know how the ISO download and key upgrading scenarios will work.
Awesome, thanks! I assumed that we didn't know the ISO situation for Windows 10 yet, but I figured it was worth asking. I guess I'll just play it by ear as details come out.
Can't wait to order my new card! Upgrade time is so exciting!
charlequin
Banned
Hope so! My wife is gonna be a little ticked if it doesn't work out.
Have you tried other programs like AMD Catalyst or HWInfo, HWMonitor, etc to see if they also report the same temperatures?
It will work out just get the cable ties out. You can see how I fed cables in my system on page 150. My PSU was only hybrid modular and also had full length cables. I tied together the slack at the PSU side witg zip ties.
I fed lots of cabling in the support columns of the case too.
Also before you install such a system, build it outside the case to test!! That bent pin could cause a lot of pain if you've got everything setup in the case.
That computer seems ridiculously over-priced for what you described it will be used for. And to be clear, by ridiculously over-priced I mean 3-times too expensive.
Yes it should work just fine other than the obvious performance bottlenecking you already know about. If you absolutely have to buy the GPU before rest of the parts then go for it. Just what ever you do wait two weeks so the new high-end cards are out to see if they affect prices below them. Or at least make sure you buy a 970/980 with a good game bundle to save money. My GTX 970 for an example cost me 369 and comes with Witcher 3 and Arkham Knight saving me 100. Even if I didn't care for those games, I could sell the codes for 50.
If you're willing to build it yourself, you can get a much stronger PC for a similar price, Windows OS included. Therefore it's not a good deal at all.
Well.. if gaming isn't important, then it would be possible to spec a suitable office and light gaming PC for around $1000 AUD.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i3-4350 3.6GHz Dual-Core Processor ($159.00 @ CPL Online)
Motherboard: ASRock H81M-HDS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($69.00 @ CPL Online)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($78.00 @ IJK)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($135.00 @ Umart)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.00 @ IJK)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 270X 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($219.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Case: Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($44.00 @ Umart)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($95.00 @ Scorptec)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($125.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Total: $993.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-27 20:45 AEST+1000
The PC could be cheaper still if you don't mind dropping the SSD or going with a weaker graphics card. Can you give us an example of what games he might be playing? I think the R9 270X should be capable of handling most games quite well, even the latest games at medium settings or so.
You could also cut around $100 AUD off that price if you don't mind buying a Windows license key from Reddit. Here's my standard blurb about buying a Windows key from there:
Windows 7/8.1 licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for $25 AUD or less. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are not approved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may refuse to give you support and/or deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it. That's not very likely, usually it only happens if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months.
Edit: revised my post for clarity and readability.
Not sure what CPU cooler you're using, but as for your GPU, if you happen to have multiple monitors hooked up to it, it runs at a higher clock on idle, so it'll be a little hotter than normal, while idle, at least.
Confusion Illusion
Banned
My CPU is idling in the 40's as well. My GPU seems to be holding at 36º at the moment.
I live in an apartment and when the weather warms up, so does every room in this place. Building management has yet to turn on the AC.
So I'm most likely getting this mouse as a replacement for my messy Diamondback 3G (The driver made Windows 8 crash again yesterday *after* I uninstalled them for the generic mouse driver to prevent that shit until I get a new one). Since Razer drivers are essentially no better than a virus, any tools made for removing them?
Thinking about this li'l bugger, same DPI as my current, but slightly larger so more comfortable for my giant hands.
And my additional 8gB of Corsair RAM arrived today. Hopefully I'll get it right the first try lol
Thinking about this li'l bugger, same DPI as my current, but slightly larger so more comfortable for my giant hands.
And my additional 8gB of Corsair RAM arrived today
. Hopefully I'll get it right the first try lolKeep in mind this is AU prices, and I would be buying something which is a little bit future proof (Last time he updated his pc was like 8 years ago)
Thanks for the info. In terms of what gaming he does, the guy is a 50+ old, so he wouldnt be playing that much, but I would say if he did, he would probably play like games that are <2011-12.
Something which I think would be important is also speed. Something snappy which wont take forever to load things. Aren't i3 very slow compared to i7's? Shouldnt I be aiming for an i7, especially since this is to last for YEARS.
Buy a PC for 50% of the price you are willing to spend now, and then buy a second PC with the saved 50% X years later (X being when he feels the PC can't keep up any more.
That is literally the only future proofing you could possibly do and would improve his experience by magnitude of a billion.
Email, Internet, Office suite, "downloading crap" etc. etc. are not very well (or at all) multi-threaded use cases so a 4c+4t CPU is a waste of money.
I'll say it again: $800AU PC now and another $800AU PC when the first one is not enough will last him significantly longer than a $1,600AU PC bought now. Also the final years won't be such a horrible drag
I have my TV and PC monitor both plugged. But the TV was turned off. I'll test unpluging the HDMI cable and see if the clocks go down.
Hey PC GAF,
Short question I'd like to get some opinions on, as I'm not really sure what to do:
I currently own a GTX 670 2GB and am torn between buying a second one (would be a used one, which I could get around the 100$ mark) or buying a brand new GTX 970.
Now, I'm mostly playing in 1080p and don't care if my FPS is below 60 from time to time, but I like to play my games on ultra settings most of the time.
Should I go for the SLI setup (bugdet-friendly) or buy a 970 (performance!).
How much would the gap in performance be?
How future-proof is the 970?
Edit: Rest of my setup is pretty decent I think (i7 3770K, 16GB RAM, SSD, you name it).
Short question I'd like to get some opinions on, as I'm not really sure what to do:
I currently own a GTX 670 2GB and am torn between buying a second one (would be a used one, which I could get around the 100$ mark) or buying a brand new GTX 970.
Now, I'm mostly playing in 1080p and don't care if my FPS is below 60 from time to time, but I like to play my games on ultra settings most of the time.
Should I go for the SLI setup (bugdet-friendly) or buy a 970 (performance!).
How much would the gap in performance be?
How future-proof is the 970?
Edit: Rest of my setup is pretty decent I think (i7 3770K, 16GB RAM, SSD, you name it).
If you sold the 670 for about $120, its about $300 on ebay for an MSI 970. For an extra 80$ over buying another GTX 670, it makes more sense to me than a dual GPU setup.
970 has been out since September 2014 too. So its already 6 months into its lifetime.
I would say atleast wait to see what happens with the AMD 390X HBM situation, and 980Ti releases. Maybe there will be a price shuffle too.
The SSD will make the computer feel extremely fast to load, so that much is covered. With Windows and all the programs installed on the SSD, load times will be measured in just seconds. For what you've described, an i7 processor is not required, and would be wasted money. I'll recommend an i5 processor if you really think he needs the extra CPU performance, but for basic gaming even a dual core Pentium processor like the G3258 will handle games from before 2012 relatively well.
I agree with the other poster, given the user's relatively low end needs (office and light gaming) if you spend some money on a moderately decent PC now and upgrade it or replace it about maybe 3~4 years down the line with new parts then, it'll last better than trying to build a high cost PC now to last around 8 years without upgrades. Unused performance isn't necessarily something you can tap into later, and new tech improvements down the line might be worth picking up.
If you and him are still interested in a higher end PC, then there is the $1650 AUD example build I put at the beginning of my post. The Xeon processor in that list is equal to an i7 processor.
Nobody?
j0hnny_385
Member
I can fully recommend the Rival. Excellent mouse. Bought it for my gf a couple of months ago. Works like a charm.Thinking about this li'l bugger, same DPI as my current, but slightly larger so more comfortable for my giant hands.
Hey all, weird question for you.
Just built my wife's PC last night. Both her PC and my PC are in the same room. I bought 2 new surge protectors ( i had previously just had mine in a power strip. I know, big dumb idea.) Her PC is running fine, I play a few hours of GTA 5 no problems, I put on Marvel Heroes and boom - pc cuts off. Won't turn on until I reset the surge protector. Get to the same point in the game - does it again. Her PC never cuts off, no lights go off, just my PC. I switch the surge protector from the bottom plug to the top and had no issues for the next hour or so before I went to bed.
In all here is what changed:
1) wife's PC on same breaker
2) new surge protector
Bad plug? Bad surge protector? Bad PSU? Any idea how to diagnose?
Just built my wife's PC last night. Both her PC and my PC are in the same room. I bought 2 new surge protectors ( i had previously just had mine in a power strip. I know, big dumb idea.) Her PC is running fine, I play a few hours of GTA 5 no problems, I put on Marvel Heroes and boom - pc cuts off. Won't turn on until I reset the surge protector. Get to the same point in the game - does it again. Her PC never cuts off, no lights go off, just my PC. I switch the surge protector from the bottom plug to the top and had no issues for the next hour or so before I went to bed.
In all here is what changed:
1) wife's PC on same breaker
2) new surge protector
Bad plug? Bad surge protector? Bad PSU? Any idea how to diagnose?
Buy a PC for 50% of the price you are willing to spend now, and then buy a second PC with the saved 50% X years later (X being when he feels the PC can't keep up any more.
That is literally the only future proofing you could possibly do and would improve his experience by magnitude of a billion.
Email, Internet, Office suite, "downloading crap" etc. etc. are not very well (or at all) multi-threaded use cases so a 4c+4t CPU is a waste of money.
I'll say it again: $800AU PC now and another $800AU PC when the first one is not enough will last him significantly longer than a $1,600AU PC bought now. Also the final years won't be such a horrible drag
Thanks a lot guys. I will go with the 3/4 year plan, and I'll take a look at the computer you recommended earlier
Thanks again
ForeverZero
Member
Does anyone know if the G3258 will bottleneck a GTX 970?
Fourth Storm
Member
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