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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Exactly what parts do you own?
95W because of a huge integrated GPU most likely. Just look at Ivy bridge vs Haswell. No, the stock cooling is designed to keep the chip in the correct operating temperatures at stock speeds. Although an aftermarket solution can be quieter.
No idea on models of boards yet, but yes DDR4/DDR3 support should be available. DDR4 is an insignificant upgrade for gaming.
Skylake will be incremental just like Haswell was to Ivy Bridge, dont expect more than 5-10% IPC gain. And no it wont make any difference for gaming. No point waiting.
If i was you, either overclock the 2500K or get a 3770K and overclock that. Mine sits at 4.2Ghz and has no problems with anything, also paired with a GTX 970 here.
PeterVenkman
Member
Currently:
i5 2500k - it has a very safe overclock (I think 38 or 39 multiplier), didn't even change the voltage or anything because, like I said, no other cooling.
EVGA 980ti SC ACX 2.0+
Corsair CX750M CX Series 750 Watt 80 Bronze - Needed this for the upped power requirements of the 980ti, gives me some good headroom. Semi modular was good, I've got 4 drives so the cord clutter is similar to a full on modular.
Gigabyte Z68MA-D2H-B3 The obnoxious mobo in question. Larger GPUs block off other ports I could use. Would have to go anyways because socket size.
Don't know the brand but I've got 8 gigs of DDR3 RAM (9 9 9 24). And a terribad Antec case.
The more I hear about it the less I want to wait around for Skylake. I do want to either properly cool and continue to overclock my CPU or jump to an i7. I know it's not a huge difference, but it's definitely my weak link. Can't run a stable 60fps Witcher 3 which is ridiculous, and it's absolutely CPU bound (those damn Novigrad crowds).
EDIT: You know the more i look into CPUs the less sense they make. Maybe I really only need a newer line i5.
EscoBlades
Ubisoft Marketing
Glad i found this thread. Looking for some input on this build i'm looking to put together..
265 for sure. I'd go for a 270 if you can afford it though; it's AMD's fastest for a single 6-pin connector. A 270 is essentially double your 7700 in everything (Shaders, ROPs, bus width) so that makes it a good minimum upgrade card imo.
You want a 4790K to be able to OC.
What are you needing 32GB RAM for?
You can do better than the Corsair RM. An EVGA G2 should be the same price or marginally more.
In fact, it might be easier just to ask, what are you looking to do with this PC?
It's a good card, albeit just not quite as good as the 980 Ti.
EscoBlades
Ubisoft Marketing
Streaming, video editing, gaming. All at a very high level. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the response. I thought about that. I usually prefer Nvidia's cards over AMD's, but I should give him the option and see which he prefers.
The_Super_Inframan
"the journey to a thousand games ends with bad rats. ~Lao Tzu" ~Gabe Newell
Hi guys 
I have a little problem and thought I ask here.
I build a new PC last week and started today salvaging the parts from my old rig that I don't need anymore to put them on ebay.
Which brings me to my, probably really easy to solve and a little bit embarrassing, problem.
How the heck do I get my old CPU cooler off?
It's a AM3 socket and looks like this:
I bet there is a really simple trick to loose the clamps and get it off, I tried a bit but I just don't get it. Google didn't really help either...
Edit: Got the thing loose at last
I have a little problem and thought I ask here.
I build a new PC last week and started today salvaging the parts from my old rig that I don't need anymore to put them on ebay.
Which brings me to my, probably really easy to solve and a little bit embarrassing, problem.
How the heck do I get my old CPU cooler off?
It's a AM3 socket and looks like this:
I bet there is a really simple trick to loose the clamps and get it off, I tried a bit but I just don't get it. Google didn't really help either...
Edit: Got the thing loose at last
King Gilga
Member
Um what's the best brower highjacker thingy remover?
I use yandex almost exclusively (since I use a plugin thing that doesn't work with the others), haven't touched chrome or FF or IE in ages.
Like 1/2 a year almost.
Go back to check them out today and one's got some weird delta homes highjack for the home page and search and the other some V9 thing.
What's the best way to remove these and maybe keep them off? It's weird because I've never had any other virusy type issue.
I use yandex almost exclusively (since I use a plugin thing that doesn't work with the others), haven't touched chrome or FF or IE in ages.
Like 1/2 a year almost.
Go back to check them out today and one's got some weird delta homes highjack for the home page and search and the other some V9 thing.
What's the best way to remove these and maybe keep them off? It's weird because I've never had any other virusy type issue.
Frankfurter
Member
I'm fairly sure that your CPU shouldn't be much of an issue in The Witcher 3. The i5-2500k is still a really good CPU.
I feel like you should just get a decent cooler and overclock the CPU to ~4.3-4.5ghz and be happy with it for another ~1.5 years. It's relatively easy, but I definitely recommend you read a proper OC article. Because if you just set the voltages to auto and increase the multiplier, the voltage will be increased alongside with it and the mainboard usually increases it far too much.
Wowfunhappy
Member
So can anyone explain, fairly simply, how to go about choosing a motherboard? I'm not building for a little while yet, but I will be as soon as Skylake comes out, and when it does I'm going to be on a fairly tight schedule since I'd like to have everything done before I go back to school.
PCPartsPicker makes it fairly easy to see what motherboards are compatible, but beyond that, what is the difference between a motherboard that costs $60 and one that costs $100+? What tradeoffs am I making?
Also, since this will be my first build, are certain motherboards easier to build with? I've been mainly looking at ATX boards simply because I figure a larger board will mean more spread out cables and thus will make everything simpler. Is this a correct assumption?
PCPartsPicker makes it fairly easy to see what motherboards are compatible, but beyond that, what is the difference between a motherboard that costs $60 and one that costs $100+? What tradeoffs am I making?
Also, since this will be my first build, are certain motherboards easier to build with? I've been mainly looking at ATX boards simply because I figure a larger board will mean more spread out cables and thus will make everything simpler. Is this a correct assumption?
ATX to ITX the main cables are in the same spot, so no the motherboard itself doesn't make it any easier to build. A smaller case is what can make it tricky and tends to need some pre thought before digging in to the build.
Z series boards are needed for overclocking, H series otherwise. B series (business) for low budget.
Things to look out for
Number of 3/4 pin fan headers
Number of SATA Ports
SLI/Xfire compatibility
Generally I like to buy boards with some sort of decent VRM cooling, you'll see heatsink a around the CPU socket in such cases.
If you want to run M.2 SSD then that's something to look out for
More money doesn't mean better always. The top boards use higher quality components usually giving 100-200Mhz better overclocks.
On average £100/$100 is the usual price point.
If you aren't looking to SLI/Xfire (I advise against unless you are buying the best GPUs) then go for mATX or ITX.
Budget? Sounds like Haswell-E might work nicely for you.
Which one specifically? Although why not the Crucial series BX100, MX100, MX200 or Samsung 850 Evo?
Sandisk Ssd plus. There's a deal for a 240GB for $67.
DrForester
Kills Photobucket
Have a strange problem with my PC that I hope someone can help me with.
I switched my dual monitor set up from DVI to DP for the higher refresh rate. I have an SLI system with both monitors plugged into one card. Since switching to DP, when I turn on my PC, only my primary monitor turns on upon startup. A simple unplug/plug of the second monitor gets the second monitor to turn on, and there are no issues while the PC is on.
Any ideas? Figuring there's some setting I'm missing somewhere
I switched my dual monitor set up from DVI to DP for the higher refresh rate. I have an SLI system with both monitors plugged into one card. Since switching to DP, when I turn on my PC, only my primary monitor turns on upon startup. A simple unplug/plug of the second monitor gets the second monitor to turn on, and there are no issues while the PC is on.
Any ideas? Figuring there's some setting I'm missing somewhere
Hi guys! I am in the market to build my first ever gaming PC. I’ve always wanted to do this and now that I have the budget, I plan to make it pretty powerful. I’ve put together a possible build and would like to know what your guys’ thoughts are on it. The two items I know I need some guidance with are the motherboard and the case, so please let me know if those are sufficient. Thank you!
CPU: Intel i7-5820K
GPU: AMD R9 Fury X
Hard Drive: SanDisk 120GB SSD
RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB DDR4 (4GBx2)
PSU: EVGA SuperNova 750W GOLD
Disc Drive: LG 14x Blu-Ray Burner Rewriter
Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 Dual Band Wireless
CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Liquid CPU Cooler H60
Motherboard: MSI Computer ATX DDR4 LGA 2011-3 Motherboard X99S SLI KRAIT EDITION
Case: NZXT Phantom ATX Full Tower Black and Green
1. The main use for this PC will be primarily Full HD gaming, consuming media (Blu-Ray,Streaming, Music), and the occasional video conversion
2. My budget tops out at $1,800
3. I live in the United States
4. Not buying parts outside of US
5. I prefer to use AMD for my GPU and Intel for my CPU
6. No parts being reused
7. I do plan on overclocking both my GPU and CPU
8. I will be using this PC at 1080p resolution
9. I would like to have this PC built by the end of August at the latest
10. I will need to purchase Windows software to install
CPU: Intel i7-5820K
GPU: AMD R9 Fury X
Hard Drive: SanDisk 120GB SSD
RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB DDR4 (4GBx2)
PSU: EVGA SuperNova 750W GOLD
Disc Drive: LG 14x Blu-Ray Burner Rewriter
Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 Dual Band Wireless
CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Liquid CPU Cooler H60
Motherboard: MSI Computer ATX DDR4 LGA 2011-3 Motherboard X99S SLI KRAIT EDITION
Case: NZXT Phantom ATX Full Tower Black and Green
1. The main use for this PC will be primarily Full HD gaming, consuming media (Blu-Ray,Streaming, Music), and the occasional video conversion
2. My budget tops out at $1,800
3. I live in the United States
4. Not buying parts outside of US
5. I prefer to use AMD for my GPU and Intel for my CPU
6. No parts being reused
7. I do plan on overclocking both my GPU and CPU
8. I will be using this PC at 1080p resolution
9. I would like to have this PC built by the end of August at the latest
10. I will need to purchase Windows software to install
Looks like you have a plan. I recommend you go for 16GB of RAM and for X99 you will want 4 sticks of RAM for quad channel mode. If you will be overclocking, you may want something better than the H60. There are air coolers available for a similar price that should outperform the Corsair H60.
Lastly, we usually recommend Crucial or Samsung when it comes to SSDs for their performance and general proven record. Nothing wrong with Sandisk, but they aren't considered to be the best overall for price and performance unless at a very low price.
Would you say I messed up by going with the sandisk 240GB ssd plus then? I just want to run the os from it. Games , programs, and media will be stored on a hdd. I can still cancel it.
So far I've got the case, which arrived today.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
How is amazon return policy when it comes to open / used products? I just got a 970 to find out it didn't SLi with my other model. I had great luck with unopened boxes, but never had to return an opened package before.
Would you say I messed up by going with the sandisk 240GB ssd plus then? I just want to run the os from it. Games , programs, and media will be stored on a hdd. I can still cancel it.
So far I've got the case, which arrived today.
If you bought it or the $67 deal that someone mentioned above, that's fine. It's a good price for a 240GB model that's decently fast. It's just that around here we usually recommend Crucial and Samsung's SSDs because they offer great performance and are relatively popular as far as SSDs go.
Would you say I messed up by going with the sandisk 240GB ssd plus then? I just want to run the os from it. Games , programs, and media will be stored on a hdd. I can still cancel it.
So far I've got the case, which arrived today.
If you're overclocking seems silly not to go 980Ti.
I hope you are aware of the experience of playing Blu Rays movies on PC - not good. May want to think about a dedicated player over a optical drive if playback is your main thing.
Yeah, I got it for $67. The expected arrival is mid August, :/
I think you meant to quote wege.
Huh, Blu-Ray playback on the PC is great. I been playing back Blu-Ray for a long while and had zero issues.
I think you meant to quote wege.
Probably, I'm on mobile lol
It's just cumbersome, needs software updates and clunky payware. Not saying it doesn't work but compared to a PS3 it's not really the best experience imo. Just something to consider as the money could be spent elsewhere.
Login here and follow for download page, scroll down for links to ISOs.
https://insider.windows.com
Insider program has been suspended. You can no longer download the ISO from the site.
-------
Blu-Ray players have updates too. Some drives come with the software required. I have zero issues playing back my Blu-Ray with what I got.
What version of Windows is on your netbook? You can get ISOs of Windows 7 and 8/8.1 fairly easily.
JbstormburstADV
Member
Well, it's been a LONG while since I got my current computer (i7-920 Bloomfield/GTX 285 x 2), so since I know Skylake is definitely coming, I am anticipating buying a completely new build around the middle or end of September. I'm likely gonna budget myself from $2500 to $3k, with maybe a couple hundred to squeeze higher.
As for what I have planned so far, this list and description details what I know and what most of the questions I need answered are gonna be like. The only things I might not have asked is a) if the new RoG boards will come with a SFF 8643 socket (aside from the Hyperkit) and b) if the RoG ATX board will be out by September.
As for what I have planned so far, this list and description details what I know and what most of the questions I need answered are gonna be like. The only things I might not have asked is a) if the new RoG boards will come with a SFF 8643 socket (aside from the Hyperkit) and b) if the RoG ATX board will be out by September.
Was windows 10 preview...lol
Well there's plenty of places to get an ISO, try mydigitallife forums or winbeta.
If you already had it you must be an insider so you should still have access to links from Microsoft. Edit - nope all gone. Try the forums I mentioned above.
I am on the website trying to find it. The PC button is grayed out.
Microsoft has suspended Preview build for Windows 10 from the web. Going have to wait for MS to put it back up (if they do). Since MS is only pushing builds through Windows 10.
ADWCleaner
twozerotwo
Member
I just put in all my orders and I can breathe a huge sigh of relief now.
I got $630 for my MBP and I ended up spending about $700-720 after shipping with $30 left in my paypal account because I can't confirm my PayPal address on my iPad and phone and newegg is stupid about the address apparently.
I still gotta find a desk and chair this weekend. My options are limited in my small-ass town so I hope I don't have to order online or drive anywhere to find something I like and that's cheap.
I got $630 for my MBP and I ended up spending about $700-720 after shipping with $30 left in my paypal account because I can't confirm my PayPal address on my iPad and phone and newegg is stupid about the address apparently.
I still gotta find a desk and chair this weekend. My options are limited in my small-ass town so I hope I don't have to order online or drive anywhere to find something I like and that's cheap.
Femmeworth
Banned
Is this a good monitor? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDFL4O/?tag=neogaf0e-20
This one is a better deal. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236174
This one is a better deal. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236174
lordfuzzybutt
Member
I have an older version of that monitor and I am quite happy with it.
Anecdotal I know but general reviews indicate it's a good one for its price.
This is my current System, what should i upgrade first?.
Intel i5 2500 3.30GHZ
Intel DH61cr - Motherboard.
Geforce GTX 780.
My RAM seems to be the most urgent part to upgrade 8GB kingston value ram,
PC3 10700 (667mhz) says CPU-Z
--------------
i have an Samsung Evo for the System Drive
and a 1TB WD Black for other things.
Intel i5 2500 3.30GHZ
Intel DH61cr - Motherboard.
Geforce GTX 780.
My RAM seems to be the most urgent part to upgrade 8GB kingston value ram,
PC3 10700 (667mhz) says CPU-Z
--------------
i have an Samsung Evo for the System Drive
and a 1TB WD Black for other things.
New RAM for sure, 1600hz preferably. You might need to check your motherboards compatibility with fast RAM speeds however.
CPU and GPU are fine for gaming for a while longer.
ok, my MOBO is not compatible, can you recomend me another motherboard, and RAM set.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
I would recommend against that.
Your ram is effectively 1333mhz, 1600mhz ram will not increase your performance in any way significant enough to warrant an upgrade. See this.
Specifically, why do you even want to upgrade? Your rig is actually quite well-rounded and will do most of today's games satisfactorily. Obviously not max settings 60fps though.
Any upgrade to actually make sense will require you to totally overhaul your rig, such as new board, overclockable CPU, better GPU.
So I would say, do over completely, or keep it as is.
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