opticalmace
Member
*edit - Woops, wrong thread
Is there any special audio software in the taskbar? Maybe there are some advanced options.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Is there any special audio software in the taskbar? Maybe there are some advanced options.
Diomedes
Member
Excited as I'm doing a new build with some old parts, but running into unexpected hurdles. Figured I've done this before, won't take that long. Let's do this weekend (28/10).
For reference:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/RmydZL
Case is great, fit and finish are what I expect from Fractal. But first time with W/C, and the case does not have sufficient room for the AIO and the HDD cage inside. The fans and Rad are mounted inside, no other cage permutation will be able to fit at all. Only one spot at the bottom of the case pushing right up against the Rad. OK, fine will put it there, but need to secure it so it doesn't rattle about. The holes on the cage do not match up with any holes on the base of the case, and it's unclear as to which screws are intended to be used.
First time W/C and decided to jump in hard. Got an EKWB Predator, full cover block to expand the coverage of the cooler, extra fluid, fittings, and a tubing. Tube arrives, struggle to get tube in the fitting, it's wrong size, great-new tube. Get everything together, refill the rad, and set it about leak testing. Jumpered the PSU, Fired up and spins away, no leaks, great. Turn it off a bit later once satisfied it's water-tight.
Get the MB installed, try the CPU block on the socket lighlty w/ the plastic cover still in place. Sits comfortably. At this point Rad is installed. Take plastic off, install CPU, bead of TIM. Block goes on great.
Install the rest to fire it up and install OS on primary SSD. Plug it in, power switch on. Nothing. Great, check MB, doesn't seem to have any LED light indicating power. Check PSU, doesn't seem to have any fan air movement upon powering on. So PSU or MB? EVGA and ASUS, so let's try RMAing both I guess, neither is firing without the other. EVGA is painless and cross-ship is great. ASUS through retailer so not as fun, but still got it done. Both arrive and seem to be in working order.
Let's continue please. Get new PSU and MB installled, Reposition and reinstall Rad/pump. Figure let's try it out and see if things shifting affected seals, go to switch it on same way as before. Nothing. Oh good, contact the manufacturer, go through a bit of troubleshooting, after some time offers to send me a part to fix it myself. Better than sending it back and waitng for it to return, so sure. As of this post, still waiting on this process to continue with build.
TL;DR.
What started at the end of Oct, that I thought would take less than a weekend, has turned into a month and longer build project with constant problems (01/12). I don't know what the root of the problem was, maybe it was me, where did I fail?
For reference:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/RmydZL
Case is great, fit and finish are what I expect from Fractal. But first time with W/C, and the case does not have sufficient room for the AIO and the HDD cage inside. The fans and Rad are mounted inside, no other cage permutation will be able to fit at all. Only one spot at the bottom of the case pushing right up against the Rad. OK, fine will put it there, but need to secure it so it doesn't rattle about. The holes on the cage do not match up with any holes on the base of the case, and it's unclear as to which screws are intended to be used.
First time W/C and decided to jump in hard. Got an EKWB Predator, full cover block to expand the coverage of the cooler, extra fluid, fittings, and a tubing. Tube arrives, struggle to get tube in the fitting, it's wrong size, great-new tube. Get everything together, refill the rad, and set it about leak testing. Jumpered the PSU, Fired up and spins away, no leaks, great. Turn it off a bit later once satisfied it's water-tight.
Get the MB installed, try the CPU block on the socket lighlty w/ the plastic cover still in place. Sits comfortably. At this point Rad is installed. Take plastic off, install CPU, bead of TIM. Block goes on great.
Install the rest to fire it up and install OS on primary SSD. Plug it in, power switch on. Nothing. Great, check MB, doesn't seem to have any LED light indicating power. Check PSU, doesn't seem to have any fan air movement upon powering on. So PSU or MB? EVGA and ASUS, so let's try RMAing both I guess, neither is firing without the other. EVGA is painless and cross-ship is great. ASUS through retailer so not as fun, but still got it done. Both arrive and seem to be in working order.
Let's continue please. Get new PSU and MB installled, Reposition and reinstall Rad/pump. Figure let's try it out and see if things shifting affected seals, go to switch it on same way as before. Nothing. Oh good, contact the manufacturer, go through a bit of troubleshooting, after some time offers to send me a part to fix it myself. Better than sending it back and waitng for it to return, so sure. As of this post, still waiting on this process to continue with build.
TL;DR.
What started at the end of Oct, that I thought would take less than a weekend, has turned into a month and longer build project with constant problems (01/12). I don't know what the root of the problem was, maybe it was me, where did I fail?
A Black Cat
Banned
Thanks. I dont know what to make of any of this though, lol. Do you know how much power this will draw? My current PSU is 220w, and I enjoy the low bill. Also with my slimline case i forgot how big a desktop PC can be... any chance this will fit in a small-ish case?
Buy the CPU from Jet.com. I did, arrived great. Use the 20NOW coupon for new users. Save some real bucks. https://jet.com/product/Intel-Core-i5-i5-4590-Quad-core-4-Core-330-GHz-Processor-Socket/2b0afc011ed849d9b5dd4e890b60eda9
With the savings get an ASROCK H97M Pro4 as your motherboard. Perfect budget motherboard for that processor. You'll still end up saving a bit doing the CPU/Motherboard shake up.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157512&cm_re=asrock_h_97m_pro4-_-13-157-512-_-Product
Get that Cooler Master PSU that's got the 30 MIR I think? link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171092&cm_re=coolermaster_v550-_-17-171-092-_-Product
Much better PSU...
Shop a GTX 960 ( I was going to suggest an R9 380 but it's a bit of a powerhog compared to the GTX 960 and you're running with 550w - so no). Newegg/Amazon et al... get whichever has a solid MIR + discount. As long as it's not a VisionTek and below 3 stars customer ratings you should be good.
As for the case, if you want to talk about sizes, take a pic of yours or give us the name so we can google it and give you something similar.
No need for that CPU cooler if you're not overclocking but it's the best "cheap" cooler out there. You can't beat it. I got one myself.
Nearly all brand new H81/B85 motherboards should already come from the factory with a high enough BIOS revision to already support Haswell Refresh, because those motherboard chipsets are still in continuous production even today. H87/Z87 is a different matter as those motherboard chipsets were discontinued in favor of H97/Z97 so manufacturers stopped making them. To make sure for whatever motherboard you decide on getting, speak with the retailer and/or check the most recent user reviews to see if Haswell Refresh is supported right away. For the motherboard to have such an old BIOS that it doesn't already support Haswell Refresh, it would have to have been sitting on the stocking shelves for over a year.
I realized I forgot to answer your earlier question: the cheaper ASRock H97M Pro4 is technically better than the ASRock H97M Anniversary. According to that comparison, the Pro4 has a better ethernet chipset (Intel LAN is considered to be more reliable than Realtek LAN), better audio chipset (ALC892 7.1 surround sound vs ALC662 5.1 surround sound), twice as many USB 3.0 ports, and larger heatsinks on the motherboard itself.
What case is it in? We should make sure the cooler we recommend will fit.I'm going to be giving my old PC away. However, it has a stock Intel fan that's a little noisy.
It's a C2D E8400, any recommendations for a different fan?
I ordered the other ones yesterday, so it's a little late. Unless I return them.
What was the promo code?
Are you looking for any features in particular? Otherwise a cheap H81, B85, or H97 motherboard would do just fine.
Eraser_Arcade
Member
Well the TV arrived sooner than I was expecting, and I finally got my answers. Yes, my 7970 GPU can run at 1080p @ 60Hz on my 4k TV & the TV automatically upscale any content to 4k.
Now I'm curious if there's a list of games that won't benefit from having more than 30fps. That way I could test out some games at 4k resolution. Already tried out South Park: Stick of Truth at 4k, and the game looks amazing.
Well the TV arrived sooner than I was expecting, and I finally got my answers. Yes, my 7970 GPU can run at 1080p @ 60Hz on my 4k TV & the TV automatically upscale any content to 4k.
Now I'm curious if there's a list of games that won't benefit from having more than 30fps. That way I could test out some games at 4k resolution. Already tried out South Park: Stick of Truth at 4k, and the game looks amazing.
There are some games that are capped at 30FPS like Tales of Zestiria, although that game isn't too demanding. I was able to max that out at 1366x768 on Intel Integrated graphics while remaining fairly smooth.
The processor will perhaps draw around 100 watts, possibly a bit less. A regular GTX 960 will draw around 130 watts. The motherboard and any storage drives and peripherals will be around maybe 50 watts.
I'd expect a quality ~300 watt PSU to have no trouble running the setup, but it's always best to have some overhead as power supplies are most efficient and produce less heat and noise when not being run at their maximum rated wattage, as well as possibly lasting longer. Having wattage to spare for future upgrades is also nice to have.
Sorry, I had no idea you preferred a small case since you didn't mention it. Unfortunately I don't know of any tiny cases that are also soundproofed. The smallest I know of would be the mATX size cases from Nanoxia and the Define Mini from Fractal. If you're fine with a non-soundproofed case, then there are a lot more options to choose from, do you have any particular designs in mind? You want a slim case? Cube case?
Doesn't Jet charge an annual $50 membership fee? That plus the more expensive motherboard wouldn't end up saving very much, would it?
Good eye for that power supply. According to reviews of the 650 watt model, it's very quiet, I agree about choosing the Cooler Master model over the Corsair I recommended earlier if possible.
The CPU cooler was just to replace the stock Intel cooler which can run fairly loud and warm under heavy loads.
No they scrapped that. And yeah it's a crime not to recommend that cooler.
^ I used the $20 off on a power supply, so it's not bad.
I believe this is the same PC, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883241011.
I would say there are 4 inches max of clearing.
Edit:
Mobo's here. :]
It's just some case that came with the computer when I bought it.
I believe this is the same PC, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883241011.
I would say there are 4 inches max of clearing.
Edit:
Mobo's here. :]
You'll live or die with mini-ITX motherboards. That's all that matters. From there you always have options. We're going smaller and smaller not bigger and bigger when it comes to form factor motherboards and cases. I expect mini-ITX's to become increasingly popular. If I had to swear as to which form factor I think is more popular atm, micro-ATX boards. And it figures mini-ITX boards will eventually over take them.
Yes, it'll work just fine. The ATX standard hasn't changed too much in the last few years, so that means old cases still work with today's components. No, you don't need to change cases to match new parts unless they don't physically fit in the case because of lack of mounts or spacing.
^ I used the $20 off on a power supply, so it's not bad.
It's just some case that came with the computer when I bought it.
I believe this is the same PC, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883241011.
I would say there are 4 inches max of clearing.
Edit: Mobo's here. :]
Hmm, any idea if they'll be overclocking the E8400? Small coolers are inherently kind of noisy because they have smaller fans that need to spin faster to move more air through the also small heatsink. And any idea how much you want to spend on the cooler?
As I recall for older PCs from the C2D era, the round Zalman coolers like the Zalman CNPS9500 were popular for being very effective yet small enough to fit in cases like the one you linked to. Otherwise there's horizontal coolers like the Cooler Master GeminII S524 or the Scythe Shuriken models. Can't think of any others at the moment.
Oh, that's cool. I'll have to start looking through Jet for parts, then.
Nostremitus
Member
Thank you, but now I'm very glad I didn't order yesterday. Now she wants an i5-6600K after reading this...
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/skylake-intel-core-i7-6700k-core-i5-6600k,4252-5.html
So I'm going to get her a new GPU for Christmas and build her a whole new PC next year.
Edit: Holy Shit at the AMD A10 7850K Adobe Illustrator bench! Is that due to HSA?
solid mike
Member
So my boss offered his second hand Kingston HyperX Predator 8GB 2400 CL RAM for around $20 which saves me around $40 if I buy a new one but the issue now is if my H97M motherboard can support the 2400.
I was looking to get a 8GB 1600 CL Corsair or Gskill but when I was told about this $20 for 8GB but 2400, I was iffy regarding whether my setup can handle it. I was told you just had to alter something in the XMP profile in the BIOS but I have never done that before...
So guys, will I be able to boot my PC given that the RAM I will use is running at 2400 instead of the H97M's default 1600?
I was looking to get a 8GB 1600 CL Corsair or Gskill but when I was told about this $20 for 8GB but 2400, I was iffy regarding whether my setup can handle it. I was told you just had to alter something in the XMP profile in the BIOS but I have never done that before...
So guys, will I be able to boot my PC given that the RAM I will use is running at 2400 instead of the H97M's default 1600?
http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H97M/?cat=Memory
You'll be fine. The DIMMS are even specifically listed there. As KHX24C11T2K2/8X, provided that's the right ID. I just googled "Kingston HyperX Predator 8GB 2400 CL" and that's what it spit out. So, again, you'll be fine.
solid mike
Member
Thanks. This is my first time building so I'm quite scared of parts not working together.
ISee
Member
Normally a h97m mobo should be able to support XMP Ram up to 1.65V, it should also be able to set all necessary setting without you.
But you might consider to upgrade to 16gb. I know not many games take profit of more ram, but when you are anyway going to upgrade.
solid mike
Member
Just to be double sure, I'm curious at what the mobo and CPU regarding the extra voltage? With a 1600 CL, I think the voltage is 1.5V but with the 2400 I'm buying from my contact, it's 1.65V.
As ISee said, your mobo should handle it fine. If it doesn't set the right voltage automatically, you might have to adjust it yourself and that'll be that.
I can't find a specific mention of supported RAM voltages (maybe I've overlooked it in the manual), but since it lists the RAM as supported, I see no reason to doubt the above.
I can't find a specific mention of supported RAM voltages (maybe I've overlooked it in the manual), but since it lists the RAM as supported, I see no reason to doubt the above.
I wouldn't expect an answer to this on GAF
Keep in mind that the 860K will probably bottleneck the new graphics card.
She's still not interested in overclocking, isn't she? Well, I guess you could get her the i5 6500 or 6600 instead of the 6600K. No idea why about the 7850K's Illustrator performance.
Checked my BIOS and the front panel type is already on HD Audio. And I don't have any yellow caution symbols in device manager. What else could it be?
I'm going to be giving my old PC away. However, it has a stock Intel fan that's a little noisy.
It's a C2D E8400, any recommendations for a different fan?
I ordered the other ones yesterday, so it's a little late. Unless I return them.
What was the promo code?
I just looked and can't find it in my order other then promo code used. Looks like it was only 5 bucks off the total so now that it's spiked it wouldn't help much anyways,
You've made sure the front panel audio cable is plugged in, and to the right connector? Have you installed the Realtek audio software and driver package?
Might be picking this up later today and a case. Maybe some RAM. I'd love some thoughts on this PSU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._mmc=EMC-GD120215-_-index-_-Item-_-17-438-018
Sorry for the late response. Yes, I would be installing my old license for Windows 7 on the computer that I'm giving him and using my upgraded Windows 10 license on the new PC. Is that not possible? If not, I might have a spare Windows 7 disk lying around that I could give him, which I suppose he could then use to upgrade to Windows 10. So what would I need to worry about when it comes to installing my Windows 10 license on a new-built machine?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._mmc=EMC-GD120215-_-index-_-Item-_-17-438-018
Sorry for the late response. Yes, I would be installing my old license for Windows 7 on the computer that I'm giving him and using my upgraded Windows 10 license on the new PC. Is that not possible? If not, I might have a spare Windows 7 disk lying around that I could give him, which I suppose he could then use to upgrade to Windows 10. So what would I need to worry about when it comes to installing my Windows 10 license on a new-built machine?
Alright, after much debate, I think this is it. Final thoughts before I order?
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Fp8BkL
Upgrading my 2600k/DDR old system.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Fp8BkL
Upgrading my 2600k/DDR old system.
Damn you NewEgg!! I hate ordering what I think is a good deal (on a monitor) only to see another email from them about something comparable, or just slightly worse but is significantly ($20 to $30) cheaper. When that happens also happens to be the day their processing is super fast so now I can't cancel the first item.
doniewhalberg
Member
Monitor question guys. On an Asus VG23AH right now, I've enjoyed it the last few years but thinking about upgrading after the holidays. I did browse the OP, but the (great) recommendations for 27" all seem to fall into the 120hz/4k column. I'm looking to move up to a 27" monitor, but stick at 1080p, 60hz (monitor is mostly used for gaming and watching videos rather than computing work). I remember back when I was looking for this monitor, Asus had just put out the MX series, and a quick look on Amazon spotted me the MX279H (price for £230). Are these monitors good? They look slick, but obviously I want good colours, low input lag, feature is more important to me than monitor looks, it won't be in a showcase room or anything. Can't say having a TN has ever bothered me, but seems everything is IPS or VA these days. Thoughts?
OK. I understand.
That's an excellent power supply, especially for the after rebate price.
No, you won't be able to do that with your Windows 7 license. The upgrade to Windows 10 does not give you a separate license of Windows 10 for free. It literally upgrades your Windows 7 license into a Windows 10 license. When you say you have a spare Windows 7 disc, do you mean a license (product key)?
If you're going to be upgrading from Windows 7, you can now directly enter your Windows 7 key into the Windows 10 installer and it'll activate. No need to fuss around with installing 7 first and then running the upgrade tool.
Looks fine for the most part. The 16GB of 2666MHz RAM is kinda expensive, though. Equivalent speed RAM can be found for less. This kit of 2x8GB 2800MHz Patriot memory is $95, and 2x8GB 3000MHz PANRAM memory is $96.
You could opt for a less expensive motherboard as well. Motherboards won't really affect the performance of your PC, unless you wanted a specific feature of the MSI motherboard you picked. It's not a bad choice though, user reviews seem solid.
That EVGA G2 650 watt PSU is expensive as well. Jharp found the EVGA 850 watt model for the same price after $40 rebate. If you only need 650 watts, then this Seasonic 650 watt model for $70 after $10 rebate is cheaper and should also be high quality as well.
The motherboard is where I was torn the most. I did look at cheaper options, like the asus z170-A, but the users reviews of it were 3-stars and below. Seemed to have alot of issues.
I'm looking it at from the point of I'm spending alot on the CPU, so I wanted a quality mobo to go along with it.
On the PSU note, just saw this one at best buy. Is this one any good?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsair...lack/8324202.p?id=1218872214205&skuId=8324202
The price is okay, but CX is Corsair's budget/entry level line. It'll be adequate enough for most users, but Jonny Guru's review of the CX750M showed that build quality was not very good. Also, it has a low tolerance for heat since it's only rated for 30 degrees C whereas most decent quality PSUs are rated for 40 or even 50 degrees.
That's fine. If you still want recommendations, my go to Z170 motherboard is the Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI (~$120). Solid 4/5 rating on Newegg and Amazon so far. Going off Newegg user reviews, Gigabyte and MSI Z170 motherboards seem to have the most positive reviews, and there are a few sub $200 MSI models that also have a 4/5 rating.
The rule of thumb for best compatibility is that you want to at least find matching speed and latency when buying new RAM to add to your existing set. You should be able to mix and match from different manufacturers just fine as RAM is all built to the same standard and don't care what company they're from. Yes, you can run a stick of 8GB alongside your 2x4GB. Refer to your motherboard manual and this Intel document for best RAM placement.
If you run into compatibility issues with the new RAM, your motherboard may need a BIOS update.
What are your system specs? What RAM do you already have, and what country are you in? Maybe we can recommend you the best kit for your money.
drotahorror
Member
What would be the best way to go about adding some USB ports internally (I don't really want a hub that will connect to another port).
Do they make something that would use a sata port and I could put into a drive bay? I see some pci ones but I'm not seeing good reviews. I would prefer to have the ports in the front which is why I'd like something that would use up a bay.
Do they make something that would use a sata port and I could put into a drive bay? I see some pci ones but I'm not seeing good reviews. I would prefer to have the ports in the front which is why I'd like something that would use up a bay.
opticalmace
Member
Do you have any free USB headers on your motherboard? That would be the easiest way... check the manual. My old Z68 board has a crapton of USB headers.
What motherboard model do you have? Depending on the model, there will be some 5 or 19 pin USB header connectors on the motherboard itself that you can connect a front panel plate with USB ports to.
Do you want a 3.5" (floppy drive or card reader sized bay) or 5.25" (optical drive sized bay) panel?How many USB ports are you looking for, and do you care if it's USB 2.0 or 3.0 or even USB 3.1?
1st Course
Member
Could anyone recommend me CPU + MOBO + GPU for under $600?
PC will mostly be used for emulation/gaming.
PC will mostly be used for emulation/gaming.
drotahorror
Member
http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/P67 Pro3/ motherboard
a 5.25 drive would be best for me. 2.0 is fine, even though I have the Etron 3.0 drivers installed my 3.0 ports seem flaky.
Looking for 2-4 ports.
***********EDit
Nevermind this I guess. My 3.0 ports work just fine, my mouse and keyboard are plugged into them with no issues. I guess it's just this dang micro usb cord that's a piece of junk. Luckily I ordered another that is hopefully better quality.
I think I'm done with MediaBridge and bluerigger when it comes to cables. Granted, my bluerigger hdmi cables are fine, but the one that plugs into my GPU doesn't plug in well because the base around the cable is too large.
Thanks to the both of you for the help though.
a 5.25 drive would be best for me. 2.0 is fine, even though I have the Etron 3.0 drivers installed my 3.0 ports seem flaky.
Looking for 2-4 ports.
***********EDit
Nevermind this I guess. My 3.0 ports work just fine, my mouse and keyboard are plugged into them with no issues. I guess it's just this dang micro usb cord that's a piece of junk. Luckily I ordered another that is hopefully better quality.
I think I'm done with MediaBridge and bluerigger when it comes to cables. Granted, my bluerigger hdmi cables are fine, but the one that plugs into my GPU doesn't plug in well because the base around the cable is too large.
Thanks to the both of you for the help though.
I'm running a 3770K on an ASUS P5 board (the one with the busted SATA controller
) and I have 8GB of G.Skill RipJaw RAM @1600. I live in Canada so hopefully something cheap can be found, I'm fine with an 8GB stick. Thanks for the help!TheOnlyMook
Member
My new GTX 970 should be arriving tomorrow, so I decided to run some benchmarks with my old GTX 560ti 448 for comparisons. After running Battlefield 4, Crysis 2, Tomb Raider, Rainbow Six Siege, and Alien Isolation, I was honestly pretty shocked that the games ran so well on ultra on such an old card. The only game to have pretty rough frame rate was Rainbow Six Siege because it's a brand new game, but it was still between 35-40fps.
Regardless, having 100+ Fps in all those games and finally having Shadowplay among other features will be awesome.
Regardless, having 100+ Fps in all those games and finally having Shadowplay among other features will be awesome.
REMAINSILLY
Member
I have a question on upgrading.
I have an i5 750 OC'd to 3.2 Ghz. I have it paired with a GTX 960 2GB, and with tax season coming up, I was thinking if I should either upgrade the GPU or CPU?
If I upgrade the CPU I was thinking of going AMD since it's a bit cheaper, since I have to buy a motherboard as well.
So, should I upgrade the CPU/mobo or GPU?
I have an i5 750 OC'd to 3.2 Ghz. I have it paired with a GTX 960 2GB, and with tax season coming up, I was thinking if I should either upgrade the GPU or CPU?
If I upgrade the CPU I was thinking of going AMD since it's a bit cheaper, since I have to buy a motherboard as well.
So, should I upgrade the CPU/mobo or GPU?
What are the rest of the PC specs? Do you already have DDR3 or DDR4 RAM? If you already have DDR3 then I'd recommend an i5 4690K, Z97 motherboard, and GTX 970 or R9 390.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($79.99 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 390 8GB SOC Video Card ($283.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $603.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-02 13:54 EST-0500
Oh, that's fine. Take a look here if you're still interested, though. The link might help someone else.
If you can overclock the i5 750 to 4GHz, that might solve your CPU performance issues (if you have any). I wouldn't recommend buying AMD at this point, they don't offer anything that is that big of an upgrade from your i5 750. This article compares Intel processors from the last ten years and they have the i5 760 tested (your overclocked i5 750 is actually a bit faster). According to those test results your processor is more or less on par with the AMD FX-8350, perhaps slightly better if you can overclock it further to 4GHz.
Edit: What sort of performance are you looking for that you can't currently get? What games are you playing that you need better performance in?
- Status