opticalmace
Member
*edit - Woops, wrong thread![]()
Is there any special audio software in the taskbar? Maybe there are some advanced options.
*edit - Woops, wrong thread![]()
Putting this in a second post because it's getting too long.
This build is tailored around having fairly quiet components:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85-HD3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($52.90 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card ($199.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $582.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-01 02:27 EST-0500
Thanks. I dont know what to make of any of this though, lol. Do you know how much power this will draw? My current PSU is 220w, and I enjoy the low bill. Also with my slimline case i forgot how big a desktop PC can be... any chance this will fit in a small-ish case?
Nearly all brand new H81/B85 motherboards should already come from the factory with a high enough BIOS revision to already support Haswell Refresh, because those motherboard chipsets are still in continuous production even today. H87/Z87 is a different matter as those motherboard chipsets were discontinued in favor of H97/Z97 so manufacturers stopped making them. To make sure for whatever motherboard you decide on getting, speak with the retailer and/or check the most recent user reviews to see if Haswell Refresh is supported right away. For the motherboard to have such an old BIOS that it doesn't already support Haswell Refresh, it would have to have been sitting on the stocking shelves for over a year.Thank you.
Will that motherboard be able to run a Haswell-R without a bios update? The only other intel CPU I have is my 2500K.
What case is it in? We should make sure the cooler we recommend will fit.I'm going to be giving my old PC away. However, it has a stock Intel fan that's a little noisy.
It's a C2D E8400, any recommendations for a different fan?
I ordered the other ones yesterday, so it's a little late. Unless I return them.
What was the promo code?
My current PC fried last night, and today I stumbled upon a seemingly decent deal for a 4970. So it's time to start fresh. Is there a sub $200 motherboard anyone recommends for it? Not looking to OC or anything (thus why I didn't get the 4970k).
Well the TV arrived sooner than I was expecting, and I finally got my answers. Yes, my 7970 GPU can run at 1080p @ 60Hz on my 4k TV & the TV automatically upscale any content to 4k.Hey guys, I'm hoping maybe someone here who's knowledgeable with 4k TVs & amd GPUs, can help me with a couple questions that I have. I just recently ordered this 4k TV, and I've come to a realization that my 7970 gpu doesn't have an hdmi 2.0 port (nor does any other amd GPU for that matter). So from my understanding, when I get my new TV & plug-in my PC to it, it will only be able to display 4k @ 30Hz. But what I would like to know is (& haven't been able to find out from google searches) can my PC be able to display 1080p @ 60Hz on this 4k TV? And if so, can the TV upscale the 1080p display to 4k while still running at 60Hz?
I know I'll eventually find out when I get the TV (hopefully in the coming week or two), but not knowing the answers to my questions is driving me crazy. lol
Well the TV arrived sooner than I was expecting, and I finally got my answers. Yes, my 7970 GPU can run at 1080p @ 60Hz on my 4k TV & the TV automatically upscale any content to 4k.![]()
Now I'm curious if there's a list of games that won't benefit from having more than 30fps. That way I could test out some games at 4k resolution. Already tried out South Park: Stick of Truth at 4k, and the game looks amazing.
Thanks. I dont know what to make of any of this though, lol. Do you know how much power this will draw? My current PSU is 220w, and I enjoy the low bill. Also with my slimline case i forgot how big a desktop PC can be... any chance this will fit in a small-ish case?
Buy the CPU from Jet.com. I did, arrived great. Use the 20NOW coupon for new users. Save some real bucks. https://jet.com/product/Intel-Core-i5-i5-4590-Quad-core-4-Core-330-GHz-Processor-Socket/2b0afc011ed849d9b5dd4e890b60eda9
With the savings get an ASROCK H97M Pro4 as your motherboard. Perfect budget motherboard for that processor. You'll still end up saving a bit doing the CPU/Motherboard shake up.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157512&cm_re=asrock_h_97m_pro4-_-13-157-512-_-Product
Get that Cooler Master PSU that's got the 30 MIR I think? link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171092&cm_re=coolermaster_v550-_-17-171-092-_-Product
Much better PSU...
Shop a GTX 960 ( I was going to suggest an R9 380 but it's a bit of a powerhog compared to the GTX 960 and you're running with 550w - so no). Newegg/Amazon et al... get whichever has a solid MIR + discount. As long as it's not a VisionTek and below 3 stars customer ratings you should be good.
As for the case, if you want to talk about sizes, take a pic of yours or give us the name so we can google it and give you something similar.
No need for that CPU cooler if you're not overclocking but it's the best "cheap" cooler out there. You can't beat it. I got one myself.
Doesn't Jet charge an annual $50 membership fee? That plus the more expensive motherboard wouldn't end up saving very much, would it?
Good eye for that power supply. According to reviews of the 650 watt model, it's very quiet, I agree about choosing the Cooler Master model over the Corsair I recommended earlier if possible.
The CPU cooler was just to replace the stock Intel cooler which can run fairly loud and warm under heavy loads.
It's just some case that came with the computer when I bought it.What case is it in? We should make sure the cooler we recommend will fit.
Stupid question: how compatible are cases with future tech? Just got my Fractal Node 304 today, will this case work with future components for years to come if I wish to upgrade? Do people have to change cases to keep up with new PC tech? Apologies, I'm still new at this.
Stupid question: how compatible are cases with future tech? Just got my Fractal Node 304 today, will this case work with future components for years to come if I wish to upgrade? Do people have to change cases to keep up with new PC tech? Apologies, I'm still new at this.
^ I used the $20 off on a power supply, so it's not bad.
It's just some case that came with the computer when I bought it.
I believe this is the same PC, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883241011.
I would say there are 4 inches max of clearing.
Edit: Mobo's here. :]
No they scrapped that. And yeah it's a crime not to recommend that cooler.
Nearly all brand new H81/B85 motherboards should already come from the factory with a high enough BIOS revision to already support Haswell Refresh, because those motherboard chipsets are still in continuous production even today. H87/Z87 is a different matter as those motherboard chipsets were discontinued in favor of H97/Z97 so manufacturers stopped making them. To make sure for whatever motherboard you decide on getting, speak with the retailer and/or check the most recent user reviews to see if Haswell Refresh is supported right away. For the motherboard to have such an old BIOS that it doesn't already support Haswell Refresh, it would have to have been sitting on the stocking shelves for over a year.
I realized I forgot to answer your earlier question: the cheaper ASRock H97M Pro4 is technically better than the ASRock H97M Anniversary. According to that comparison, the Pro4 has a better ethernet chipset (Intel LAN is considered to be more reliable than Realtek LAN), better audio chipset (ALC892 7.1 surround sound vs ALC662 5.1 surround sound), twice as many USB 3.0 ports, and larger heatsinks on the motherboard itself.
Guys so glad I found this thread as I need help.
I am torn between two monitors...
Crossover 2795QHD
OR
Qnix qx2710 evo II
Any ideas?
So my boss offered his second hand Kingston HyperX Predator 8GB 2400 CL RAM for around $20 which saves me around $40 if I buy a new one but the issue now is if my H97M motherboard can support the 2400.
I was looking to get a 8GB 1600 CL Corsair or Gskill but when I was told about this $20 for 8GB but 2400, I was iffy regarding whether my setup can handle it. I was told you just had to alter something in the XMP profile in the BIOS but I have never done that before...
So guys, will I be able to boot my PC given that the RAM I will use is running at 2400 instead of the H97M's default 1600?
http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H97M/?cat=MemoryNote1: Due to the configuration of chipset, each RAM will downgrade to DDR3 1600 with H97 series chipset.
So my boss offered his second hand Kingston HyperX Predator 8GB 2400 CL RAM for around $20 which saves me around $40 if I buy a new one but the issue now is if my H97M motherboard can support the 2400.
I was looking to get a 8GB 1600 CL Corsair or Gskill but when I was told about this $20 for 8GB but 2400, I was iffy regarding whether my setup can handle it. I was told you just had to alter something in the XMP profile in the BIOS but I have never done that before...
So guys, will I be able to boot my PC given that the RAM I will use is running at 2400 instead of the H97M's default 1600?
http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H97M/?cat=Memory
You'll be fine. The DIMMS are even specifically listed there. As KHX24C11T2K2/8X, provided that's the right ID. I just googled "Kingston HyperX Predator 8GB 2400 CL" and that's what it spit out. So, again, you'll be fine.
Normally a h97m mobo should be able to support XMP Ram up to 1.65V, it should also be able to set all necessary setting without you.
But you might consider to upgrade to 16gb. I know not many games take profit of more ram, but when you are anyway going to upgrade.
I wouldn't expect an answer to this on GAFSince emulation is one of the reasons you guys build PC's for, I thought I'd ask. Which emulator do you use and where do you get the games from?
Maybe Ps2 and Nintendo 64 emulation
Thank you, but now I'm very glad I didn't order yesterday. Now she wants an i5-6600K after reading this...
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/skylake-intel-core-i7-6700k-core-i5-6600k,4252-5.html
So I'm going to get her a new GPU for Christmas and build her a whole new PC next year.
Edit: Holy Shit at the AMD A10 7850K Adobe Illustrator bench! Is that due to HSA?
Check if the wire is loose. Otherwise, go into the BIOS and see if there are any options for front panel audio settings. If there is an option between AC97 and HD audio, select HD audio. You should check device manager to see if you are missing any drivers. Anything wrong will have a yellow caution symbol on the device icon.
I'm going to be giving my old PC away. However, it has a stock Intel fan that's a little noisy.
It's a C2D E8400, any recommendations for a different fan?
I ordered the other ones yesterday, so it's a little late. Unless I return them.
What was the promo code?
Checked my BIOS and the front panel type is already on HD Audio. And I don't have any yellow caution symbols in device manager. What else could it be?
Is your current license of Windows 10 a result of upgrading from a copy of 7/8/8.1? If yes, is the Windows 7 license you're installing for your friend a whole new license or the one you upgraded from?
I wouldn't expect an answer to this on GAF
Might be picking this up later today and a case. Maybe some RAM. I'd love some thoughts on this PSU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._mmc=EMC-GD120215-_-index-_-Item-_-17-438-018
Sorry for the late response. Yes, I would be installing my old license for Windows 7 on the computer that I'm giving him and using my upgraded Windows 10 license on the new PC. Is that not possible? If not, I might have a spare Windows 7 disk lying around that I could give him, which I suppose he could then use to upgrade to Windows 10. So what would I need to worry about when it comes to installing my Windows 10 license on a new-built machine?
Alright, after much debate, I think this is it. Final thoughts before I order?
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Fp8BkL
Upgrading my 2600k/DDR old system.
That's an excellent power supply, especially for the after rebate price.
No, you won't be able to do that with your Windows 7 license. The upgrade to Windows 10 does not give you a separate license of Windows 10 for free. It literally upgrades your Windows 7 license into a Windows 10 license. When you say you have a spare Windows 7 disc, do you mean a license (product key)?
If you're going to be upgrading from Windows 7, you can now directly enter your Windows 7 key into the Windows 10 installer and it'll activate. No need to fuss around with installing 7 first and then running the upgrade tool.
Looks fine for the most part. The 16GB of 2666MHz RAM is kinda expensive, though. Equivalent speed RAM can be found for less. This kit of 2x8GB 2800MHz Patriot memory is $95, and 2x8GB 3000MHz PANRAM memory is $96.
You could opt for a less expensive motherboard as well. Motherboards won't really affect the performance of your PC, unless you wanted a specific feature of the MSI motherboard you picked. It's not a bad choice though, user reviews seem solid.
That EVGA G2 650 watt PSU is expensive as well. Jharp found the EVGA 850 watt model for the same price after $40 rebate. If you only need 650 watts, then this Seasonic 650 watt model for $70 after $10 rebate is cheaper and should also be high quality as well.
That's an excellent power supply, especially for the after rebate price.
No, you won't be able to do that with your Windows 7 license. The upgrade to Windows 10 does not give you a separate license of Windows 10 for free. It literally upgrades your Windows 7 license into a Windows 10 license. When you say you have a spare Windows 7 disc, do you mean a license (product key)?
If you're going to be upgrading from Windows 7, you can now directly enter your Windows 7 key into the Windows 10 installer and it'll activate. No need to fuss around with installing 7 first and then running the upgrade tool.
Looks fine for the most part. The 16GB of 2666MHz RAM is kinda expensive, though. Equivalent speed RAM can be found for less. This kit of 2x8GB 2800MHz Patriot memory is $95, and 2x8GB 3000MHz PANRAM memory is $96.
You could opt for a less expensive motherboard as well. Motherboards won't really affect the performance of your PC, unless you wanted a specific feature of the MSI motherboard you picked. It's not a bad choice though, user reviews seem solid.
That EVGA G2 650 watt PSU is expensive as well. Jharp found the EVGA 850 watt model for the same price after $40 rebate. If you only need 650 watts, then this Seasonic 650 watt model for $70 after $10 rebate is cheaper and should also be high quality as well.
On the PSU note, just saw this one at best buy. Is this one any good?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsair...lack/8324202.p?id=1218872214205&skuId=8324202
The motherboard is where I was torn the most. I did look at cheaper options, like the asus z170-A, but the users reviews of it were 3-stars and below. Seemed to have alot of issues.
I'm looking it at from the point of I'm spending alot on the CPU, so I wanted a quality mobo to go along with it.
Hey guys, I need to supplement my 2x4GB DDR3 of RAM with another 8GB but the particular model of RAM I have is pretty old -- what are the rules of mixing sticks from various manufacturers? Can I run an 8GB stick along with my 2x4GBs? Thanks!
What would be the best way to go about adding some USB ports internally (I don't really want a hub that will connect to another port).
Do they make something that would use a sata port and I could put into a drive bay? I see some pci ones but I'm not seeing good reviews. I would prefer to have the ports in the front which is why I'd like something that would use up a bay.
What would be the best way to go about adding some USB ports internally (I don't really want a hub that will connect to another port).
Do they make something that would use a sata port and I could put into a drive bay? I see some pci ones but I'm not seeing good reviews. I would prefer to have the ports in the front which is why I'd like something that would use up a bay.
The price is okay, but CX is Corsair's budget/entry level line. It'll be adequate enough for most users, but Jonny Guru's review of the CX750M showed that build quality was not very good. Also, it has a low tolerance for heat since it's only rated for 30 degrees C whereas most decent quality PSUs are rated for 40 or even 50 degrees.
That's fine. If you still want recommendations, my go to Z170 motherboard is the Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI (~$120). Solid 4/5 rating on Newegg and Amazon so far. Going off Newegg user reviews, Gigabyte and MSI Z170 motherboards seem to have the most positive reviews, and there are a few sub $200 MSI models that also have a 4/5 rating.
The rule of thumb for best compatibility is that you want to at least find matching speed and latency when buying new RAM to add to your existing set. You should be able to mix and match from different manufacturers just fine as RAM is all built to the same standard and don't care what company they're from. Yes, you can run a stick of 8GB alongside your 2x4GB. Refer to your motherboard manual and this Intel document for best RAM placement.
If you run into compatibility issues with the new RAM, your motherboard may need a BIOS update.
What are your system specs? What RAM do you already have, and what country are you in? Maybe we can recommend you the best kit for your money.
Could anyone recommend me CPU + MOBO + GPU for under $600?
PC will mostly be used for emulation/gaming.
http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/P67 Pro3/ motherboard
a 5.25 drive would be best for me. 2.0 is fine, even though I have the Etron 3.0 drivers installed my 3.0 ports seem flaky.
Looking for 2-4 ports.
***********EDit
Nevermind this I guess. My 3.0 ports work just fine, my mouse and keyboard are plugged into them with no issues. I guess it's just this dang micro usb cord that's a piece of junk. Luckily I ordered another that is hopefully better quality.
I think I'm done with MediaBridge and bluerigger when it comes to cables. Granted, my bluerigger hdmi cables are fine, but the one that plugs into my GPU doesn't plug in well because the base around the cable is too large.
Thanks to the both of you for the help though.
I have a question on upgrading.
I have an i5 750 OC'd to 3.2 Ghz. I have it paired with a GTX 960 2GB, and with tax season coming up, I was thinking if I should either upgrade the GPU or CPU?
If I upgrade the CPU I was thinking of going AMD since it's a bit cheaper, since I have to buy a motherboard as well.
So, should I upgrade the CPU/mobo or GPU?