Christberg
Member
Case is a Thermaltake Soprano RS. I'd like to keep it around $200 total but if it goes a little over no biggie.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Case is a Thermaltake Soprano RS. I'd like to keep it around $200 total but if it goes a little over no biggie.
Going off what I can search for such an old case, these parts should fit:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 380 4GB PCS+ Video Card ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $204.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-25 23:25 EST-0500
As far as I know, most external drives should work as long as it's USB. The larger 3.5" models will probably require a separate power cable to work.
manfestival
Member
Thank you so much for this post! It could not have been any more timely. I just purchased mine. I was about to purchase one off of a gaffer(not that it would have mattered) for 10 dollars less that has gone through some fair use.
Just placed my order. Seriously wanted to wait for my tax return to come in but I guess the upgrade bug hit me full force. My first Intel CPU ever(since I started making my own computers) and my first NVIDIA GPU since the geforce 2. I almost feel like a traitor but the experience has been fantastic so far.
It depends on what you play and what kind of performance you're looking for.
I have a 2500k/gtx 970 combo currently and both OC'd. It runs most games on Ultra at 100+fps and keeps up well.
I'm sure 2500k owners could get easily a few more years out of them, esp considering the limitations of new consoles and, by extension, performance expectations in ports.
Still, I'd be tempted to go with a new build.
The thing is I am also tempted to go with a new build because of the issues I've had with my unstable mobo.
I could always get the GPU and get myself the rest of the build later down the road.
darkwing-buck
Member
For internal storage should I get the Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive or should I look into getting a SSD if I want better performance?
ISee
Member
I'm still running an i5 3570k (oc) and I just bought a gtx 980 and I'm quite satisfied (waiting for ZEN before deciding on a new CPU). In general old overclocked i5s are still enough for current games when accompanied by a good GPU and fast ram. First DX12 benchmarks even start to indicate that they might be enough for dx12 games (still not enough informations to be sure!) and might hold out a couple of years longer than expected.
That said as overclocking isn't an option and you start to run into issues a new system is the way to go for you. The question is: How to do it?
1.) Buy a new skylake based system now and get a descent GPU (at least a 970).
2.) Get a descent GPU (the higher, the better) and enjoy it now. Save some money and wait for AMDs Zen CPUs to hit store shelves, read benchmarks and decide which offers the best performance/price ratio (skylake or zen). Get the new system and use the GPU you bought a couple of months earlier. It's more or less a win/win situation for you.
yes.
Hey thanks for the post.
I have always gone with nVidia and I never had any problems with them so I'll keep doing that.
I believe the first option of getting a slylake build with a 970 is what I am gravitating towards. Maybe I could buy a 970 to use with my 2500k build for a while,although I don't see the benefit of that.
Enordash
Member
Thanks, everyone. I'm still soul searching on whether to grab the 970 or just try to swing a 980ti somehow.
OK, so I have been fucking around trying different small things while I get the time to take the MB out and I decided to put the GPU in the 2nd PCIe slot on my MB and how everything is working fine and I can run furmak for as long as I want.
WHAT IS GOING ON?
opticalmace
Member
First PCIe slot could be busted on the mobo. Hard to say for sure, though if you have another GPU to test that would be one way.
Hey PCGaf 
Haven't been around too much lately because I started working, but I just bought a condo and had FiOS installed this morning (woohoo!) and had a networking question. I figured this would be the best place to ask...
Does anyone know how to tell cat5 cable apart from cat5e? What the FiOS installer and I realized today is that the two phone jacks in my place were actually wired up with some kind of cat5 cable, and not just cat3. The cable itself doesn't have any sort of writing on it whatsoever, and he only realized it was 5 and not 3 when he sliced it open a little to see what it was. He took off the phone connectors and used the wire to connect to my router. Internet speeds and latency seem great, but I'm a pedantic nerd so I want to figure out if this is 5e or if its just 5.
Thanks!
Haven't been around too much lately because I started working, but I just bought a condo and had FiOS installed this morning (woohoo!) and had a networking question. I figured this would be the best place to ask...Does anyone know how to tell cat5 cable apart from cat5e? What the FiOS installer and I realized today is that the two phone jacks in my place were actually wired up with some kind of cat5 cable, and not just cat3. The cable itself doesn't have any sort of writing on it whatsoever, and he only realized it was 5 and not 3 when he sliced it open a little to see what it was. He took off the phone connectors and used the wire to connect to my router. Internet speeds and latency seem great, but I'm a pedantic nerd so I want to figure out if this is 5e or if its just 5.
Thanks!
Not sure where else I can put it, but:
At the moment I have a Synology DS214se. It fine for the most part, but I get annoyed at the speed of the web interface and other tasks (I can't really complain since it only has 256MB of ram). So I was look at some of the more advanced solutions with a minimal of dual core CPU and 1GB of ram. I had this in mind: Synology DS1515. But will this solve the slow web interface? Since I was searching for a good solution.. I was also thinking of maybe building a low budget one myself with FreeNAS on top of it.
My main goals are:
- Data storage
- Media server (I watch series and movies from it and want to store photo's)
- Download client
- Easy expendables or replaceble
- Low power
- Quiet
- Good speed with a 'fast' webinterface
These are a bonus:
- Been able to host a database
- Host ASP.net/PHP website's
At the moment I have a Synology DS214se. It fine for the most part, but I get annoyed at the speed of the web interface and other tasks (I can't really complain since it only has 256MB of ram). So I was look at some of the more advanced solutions with a minimal of dual core CPU and 1GB of ram. I had this in mind: Synology DS1515. But will this solve the slow web interface? Since I was searching for a good solution.. I was also thinking of maybe building a low budget one myself with FreeNAS on top of it.
My main goals are:
- Data storage
- Media server (I watch series and movies from it and want to store photo's)
- Download client
- Easy expendables or replaceble
- Low power
- Quiet
- Good speed with a 'fast' webinterface
These are a bonus:
- Been able to host a database
- Host ASP.net/PHP website's
If there's no visible writing and you don't want to expose the wire, you could just try to plug gigabit devices into either end of it and see if you get a 1000Mb connection. CAT5 only supports 10/100.Hey PCGaf
Does anyone know how to tell cat5 cable apart from cat5e? What the FiOS installer and I realized today is that the two phone jacks in my place were actually wired up with some kind of cat5 cable, and not just cat3. The cable itself doesn't have any sort of writing on it whatsoever, and he only realized it was 5 and not 3 when he sliced it open a little to see what it was. He took off the phone connectors and used the wire to connect to my router. Internet speeds and latency seem great, but I'm a pedantic nerd so I want to figure out if this is 5e or if its just 5.
Thanks!
But yeah, it's actually quite common now to see electricians use CAT5 when they don't have to (like cabling a telephone extension). It's so cheap that often they do it to not have to carry so many types of cable. Turns out the rear extension of our business premises used CAT5 for the phone extension, so we were able to wire in more Cisco AP's really cheaply.
one quick question about ram. i just bought this mobo for my new skylake setup and this hyper x ram just read the manual and its not on the qualified vendors list (i cant try out the pc since the other parts cpu, psu, case wont get here till the 5th) should i change the ram or it should work?
triplestation
Member
nvm
Thought I may as well put an update on this. I have now tried a new PSU and the same issue is still happening. Out of despair I also tried a different wall socket and a different cable. So unless there is something obvious missing here it's the CPU.
Royal_Phalanx
Member
Is this config a good setup? I have to make Overclockers UK build it since I live with my parents and they get really bitchy about the idea of me building my own PC for really stupid reasons like "I'll break stuff and waste my hard earned money". My goal is to get a solid mid-range gaming PC that plays the latest games well, as well as being easy to upgrade when the time comes.
Case: BitFenix Comrade Midi Tower
Processor: AMD Piledriver FX-4 Quad Core 4300 3.80 GHz
Cooler: Rajintek Aidos Direct Contact Cooler
SSD: Samsung 120GB 850 EVO
HDD: Seagate 1TB 7200RPM SATA
Graphics :Geforce GTX960 2GB GDDR5
+sound card, wireless internet adapter
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ocuk...onfigurator-fs-014-tl.html#t=aze1j0k6m0n3r0t0
Case: BitFenix Comrade Midi Tower
Processor: AMD Piledriver FX-4 Quad Core 4300 3.80 GHz
Cooler: Rajintek Aidos Direct Contact Cooler
SSD: Samsung 120GB 850 EVO
HDD: Seagate 1TB 7200RPM SATA
Graphics :Geforce GTX960 2GB GDDR5
+sound card, wireless internet adapter
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ocuk...onfigurator-fs-014-tl.html#t=aze1j0k6m0n3r0t0
Hoping for a quick answer here as I'm trying to finalize a build.
I'm looking at these two memory options and trying to figure out which is better or if they are basically the same.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231941
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231878
One runs at 3200 and has 16-18-18-38 timings while the other is slower at 3000 but has better timings at 15-15-15-35.
From what I've read the two kind of cancel each other out and the difference is negligible if there even is any at all. I would appreciate any help in clearing this up, thanks.
I'm looking at these two memory options and trying to figure out which is better or if they are basically the same.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231941
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231878
One runs at 3200 and has 16-18-18-38 timings while the other is slower at 3000 but has better timings at 15-15-15-35.
From what I've read the two kind of cancel each other out and the difference is negligible if there even is any at all. I would appreciate any help in clearing this up, thanks.
CharpyImpact
Member
So, I bought a Cool Master V750 in cause it was a PSU issue. I did the install and the same issue still occurs. Is there anything I am missing? Could it be my driver acting up? I have uninstalled and reinstalled them multiple times. Could my mobo do this, even though my friend's 460 has no issues in my PC? Also, if you do think it is still the video card, how do I deal with Gigabyte so they stop sending me broken video cards? I have gone through 3 RMAs now... 2 fixes and 1 replacement.
Any help would be appreciated.
Mobius and pet octopus
Member
I am thinking of buying a SSD of about 100GB.
But I am not sure if I should go with an internal or external, and what technical specs I should look for. I am also shopping for an older PC so no USB 3.0.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104574&leaderboard=1
is what I am looking at so far.
But I am not sure if I should go with an internal or external, and what technical specs I should look for. I am also shopping for an older PC so no USB 3.0.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104574&leaderboard=1
is what I am looking at so far.
Anyone here have experience with the Radeon Fury X? I've been considering getting one for a while now to replace my R9 280 but was wondering about people's experience with it. I know it got a slight performance bump recently with new drivers. I always like to hear first person accounts of product use on top of lab reviews.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ebbr=1&cm_re=r9_fury_x-_-14-131-675-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ebbr=1&cm_re=r9_fury_x-_-14-131-675-_-Product
What exactly is the use scenario going to be?
If you intend to run software and games or the whole operating system from it, then there is absolutely no reason to consider anything but the internal option. Buying an SSD and using it even with the fastest USB 3.1 enclosure will severely gimp the performance.
Mobius and pet octopus
Member
Okay, so internal sounds right to me. It doesn't seem like it'll be an issue for me to install it either since it is small. I read it doesn't even need to be docked in tightly, just in a somewhat secure spot and kept in place with tape?
My use will probably be just a couple games on there. I think maybe I'll put the OS on there as well since I've been told that is fairly simple to do with the biggest performance increase.
It'll work. There are so many different hundreds of RAM kits out there that they do not have the time or money to test them all. The QVL thing is just to be taken as a guideline as to what kind of kits work.
Don't go with an AMD FX processor, those things are three years old and the FX-4300 is a bottleneck in most games. Intel is preferable for much higher performance. Also, I would advise against getting a 120GB SSD, it's quite small and will fill up easily seeing how Windows will take up a sizable chunk and many games can take up to 50GB of space. Either get a larger SSD or save up for one in the future. Also, a sound card isn't really necessary, and do you absolutely need a wireless adaptor for your PC?
Something like this seems like a much better deal, you get a newer and much stronger processor with a somewhat better graphics card (2GB vs 4GB) and then just add a monitor of your choice.
The 3200MHz kit is cheaper than the 3000MHz kit by $20. Seems like the better deal.
How much space do your existing games and Windows OS take up? There's a fair chance that might already be more than the 100GB SSD can hold.
Here's a guide in case you want to clone stuff from the existing hard drive to the newer one.
Hi GAF, was hoping for some advice on building my first PC! I intend to replace my old PC entirely, although I might keep the monitor and accessories. I've just graduated college so I want to try out a new gaming PC that lasts me the next 5 or so years without an upgrade. My budget is $2,000 (USD) since I'm going all in on it, but may go cheaper if I don't get enough of a benefit out of some parts.
Just as a general idea for what I'm aiming at, I want to be able to run games like The Witcher 3 at 60fps and Ultra settings. I would like to build by next weekend since I will be starting a full-time job a week from Monday. I don't know much about overclocking since I'm a newbie at this, which makes me think it would be best if I avoided it. I'm planning to sink a lot of money into this PC, so I don't want to take a chance at damaging new parts.
Here's my first attempt at a build I put together on PC Part Picker. Some of it is probably overkill (or I need to pick better alternatives) so I was interested in any feedback.
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
SSD: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ACX2.0+Video Card
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Case: Deepcool TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case
Let me know what you all think, if there is any parts I should upgrade or downgrade. I am wondering if I should change the video card since it sounds like it is built for overclocking.
Just as a general idea for what I'm aiming at, I want to be able to run games like The Witcher 3 at 60fps and Ultra settings. I would like to build by next weekend since I will be starting a full-time job a week from Monday. I don't know much about overclocking since I'm a newbie at this, which makes me think it would be best if I avoided it. I'm planning to sink a lot of money into this PC, so I don't want to take a chance at damaging new parts.
Here's my first attempt at a build I put together on PC Part Picker. Some of it is probably overkill (or I need to pick better alternatives) so I was interested in any feedback.
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
SSD: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ACX2.0+Video Card
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Case: Deepcool TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case
Let me know what you all think, if there is any parts I should upgrade or downgrade. I am wondering if I should change the video card since it sounds like it is built for overclocking.
Do not buy that SSD, go for Crucial mx100, bx100, or mx200. Or Samsung 850 evo.
Buy some other PSU, that corsair line up isn't the best. Try the Evga supernova g2, seasonic g series.
Rest is ok, I'm on mobile so can't help with the case but I've not heard of it.
You should probably go mATX though.
Bolded part is true. Double sided tape just to keep it from hitting any fans.
Mobius and pet octopus
Member
I don't really install many games at a time tbh. Checking right now I only have 77gb of games installed from steam.
So at first I was thinking I'd run maybe 2-3 games on the SDD, the ones I use the most. So I think I would actually be okay with installing both the OS and the 2-3 games even on a 120gb. But I am also considering the 240gb since its definitely in a price range I am okay with.
I would still use the HDD for media files and some games. In other words, i don't intend to completely replace my HDD.
Thanks for the guide link. I think I am going to create a windows 10 install USB drive and install the OS that way. Once I do that I assume I can just boot off that SSD and install things on that as I would normally.
Nice. Thanks, that'll make it easier than looking for a dock to get a tight fit.
Thank you for the feedback! I modified the build so that the SSD is the Crucial MX200 250GB 2.5" SSD, the PSU is the EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W, and the case is the Raidmax Cobra Z MicroATX.
An mATX motherboard will be needed to fit the mATX case.
That's a pretty nasty looking case, imo. Try something from Corsair or Fractal Design, don't cheap out on the case, you'll regret it down the line, and try not to go for flashing bling LEDs because after a few days you'll just be looking for a way to disable them.
Use pcpartpicker website to help with compatibility.
cebri.one
Member
Hi PCGAF,
So i finally decided to build my own PC, i've been doing some research and i've come with this build:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Skylake
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12
Motherboard: Asus Z170M-PLUS
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z DDR4 3000 PC4-24000 8GB 2x4GB CL15
HDD: WD Blue 1TB SATA3
GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 960 2GB
Power Supply: Antec VPF 550 EC 550W 80 Plus Bronze
DVD: Asus DRW-24F1MT RW DVD 24X Black
Case: Cooler Master Silencio 352
Total Cost: 950€ (tax included) ~
Any thoughts?
PD: Wanted pretty much for 1080p gaming.
So i finally decided to build my own PC, i've been doing some research and i've come with this build:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Skylake
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12
Motherboard: Asus Z170M-PLUS
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z DDR4 3000 PC4-24000 8GB 2x4GB CL15
HDD: WD Blue 1TB SATA3
GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 960 2GB
Power Supply: Antec VPF 550 EC 550W 80 Plus Bronze
DVD: Asus DRW-24F1MT RW DVD 24X Black
Case: Cooler Master Silencio 352
Total Cost: 950€ (tax included) ~
Any thoughts?
PD: Wanted pretty much for 1080p gaming.
For $2000 you can definitely get better parts. How does something like this look?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($364.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock X99 Extreme4/3.1 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($228.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Viper 4 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($147.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($87.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($629.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($43.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1738.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-26 17:32 EST-0500
Although some parts are designed to be able to overclock, you aren't required to. You can just leave it as is.
What country are you in and what's your budget? I'd recommend a graphics card with 4GB of VRAM. The NH-L12 cooler isn't the best for performance so I'd also recommend a larger CPU cooler.
cebri.one
Member
I live in Spain. I can go with 4GB as is not a very significant price increase.
About the cooler, because i'm going with a microATX case i'm concerned the cooler won't fit. Would there be any problems if i choose a 212 Evo?
Thanks for your help.
SomeOneInaHat
Member
Hello everyone, it has been over 4 years since I upgraded my PC and would love some help trying to find some appropriate parts for my old PC that will help it enter the wonderful world of DX12 and 1080p.
I'm working within a budget of around $350 (give or take) and need to know if a GTX 970 is enough to get me what I want, 1080p 60FPS on modern games. Not only that, it would be great to know the difference between different models of GTX 970s available because I never really understand all of that gobbledygook after the main product listing. I do know though that it alters the price significantly, so needless to say I'm curious why that is.
Here are my specifications by the way:
Also after typing out these specs I obviously need RAM as well, so yeh. What's the prognosis NEWPCGAF?
I'm working within a budget of around $350 (give or take) and need to know if a GTX 970 is enough to get me what I want, 1080p 60FPS on modern games. Not only that, it would be great to know the difference between different models of GTX 970s available because I never really understand all of that gobbledygook after the main product listing. I do know though that it alters the price significantly, so needless to say I'm curious why that is.
Here are my specifications by the way:
Operating System: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Graphics Card: AMD Radeon 6950 Sapphire 1 GB
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 860 @ 2.8Ghz (currently overclocked to 2.9 Ghz)
Memory: 4GB
Graphics Card: AMD Radeon 6950 Sapphire 1 GB
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 860 @ 2.8Ghz (currently overclocked to 2.9 Ghz)
Memory: 4GB
Also after typing out these specs I obviously need RAM as well, so yeh. What's the prognosis NEWPCGAF?
Which retailers are you looking at for computer parts? Do you have links? I wouldn't mind looking for parts for you. Yeah, the 212 Evo is just slightly too large to fit.
You'll want 8GB of RAM at the very least. Whether the GTX 970 is enough will depend on what games you want to play and at what settings, but I feel safe recommending it for 60FPS at 1080p on high-ish settings for most of the latest games.
Any feedback on this build?
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($351.22 @ Vuugo)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.99 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($100.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.99 @ Canada Computers)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card ($420.64 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($124.99 @ NCIX)
Optical Drive: LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($60.39 @ DirectCanada)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($120.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Total: $1580.14
- Ideal budget was around $1500 but, oh well. I can manage this. I'm in Canada where prices suck.
- Hoping to game at 1440p with high to very high quality on modern AAA games. The monitor I have is a Dell U2715H (60hz).
- I wanted to future proof myself a bit with the cpu. I don't mind upgrading the gpu if needed in a year or 2 if a great deal comes along.
- The spots that I had no idea about were the motherboard and PSU. Just looked at reviews and what would fit into my total budget. I'm thinking the PSU may be a bit much? I really don't know...
Any suggestions?
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($351.22 @ Vuugo)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.99 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($100.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.99 @ Canada Computers)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card ($420.64 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($124.99 @ NCIX)
Optical Drive: LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($60.39 @ DirectCanada)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($120.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Total: $1580.14
- Ideal budget was around $1500 but, oh well. I can manage this. I'm in Canada where prices suck.
- Hoping to game at 1440p with high to very high quality on modern AAA games. The monitor I have is a Dell U2715H (60hz).
- I wanted to future proof myself a bit with the cpu. I don't mind upgrading the gpu if needed in a year or 2 if a great deal comes along.
- The spots that I had no idea about were the motherboard and PSU. Just looked at reviews and what would fit into my total budget. I'm thinking the PSU may be a bit much? I really don't know...
Any suggestions?
Samsung Pro 950 M.2 512GB - Short Impressions
So I got a unit of this for Christmas. I was impressed by TechReport's Review and felt that my X99 mobo should take the full advantage of that. What I wanted to do with it was to dual boot Ubuntu 14.04 LTS for my computing tasks and Windows 8.1 for gaming. In my existing setup, I have 2x1TB Samsung 850 in RAID0. Although I felt it's possible just to clone my existing partitions from the raid array to the m.2, I decided to do a fresh install (and upgrade from a 6-year Windows 7 install to a Windows 8.1)
After backing up my existing data on the RAID0, the installation itself was pretty quick and painless. One funny thing I noticed in my BIOS settings was that if I set my PCIE x4 to M.2, instead of Auto, the M.2 will totally disappear from the boot menu. Only after setting it to auto it actually come up. I suppose upgrading the BIOS revision could possibly fix this, but I decided against it since I would have to redo all my OC settings again.
After that, I used gdisk to partition the m.2 manually, then proceeded to install Windows 8.1 first, then Ubuntu. Strangely enough, the Ubuntu install script didn't detect the Windows installation for some reason, although it's nothing that grub-update can't fix.
I then repartition the RAID0 disk to be my D:\ to store my games, and /home to store my work. Restored my backup to the RAID0 disk took almost 7 hours , since I have almost ~800GB worth of Games and ~600GB of other data (And also I assume this is because the Linux FUSE driver isn't the fastest in the world). After reinstalling drivers and the like, the whole process took me almost 10 hours.
I didn't time the booting time properly since I have the GRUB menu wait 10 seconds for a menu select, but it probably took 3-4 seconds from the Windows logo to the login screen. (and roughly the same time for my Ubuntu installation)
Some synthetic bench for the M.2 after my backup was restored (at 63% full out of 250GB, the other half is my Ubuntu install)
And the bench for my D:\ in the RAID0 partition (at 60% full out of 1.3TB, the rest would be /home for my Ubuntu install)
I haven't run any demanding games since I've been playing Trails in the Sky FC, but I imagine load times would roughly be the same, since they're still in the RAID0 partition. However, I tried to run Photoshop to crop the screenshots above and it fired up in 2 seconds flat (as opposed to 5 seconds when it was running from my RAID0)
The rest of my specs:
Asus RVE X99
16GB DDR4
2xGTX980
So I got a unit of this for Christmas. I was impressed by TechReport's Review and felt that my X99 mobo should take the full advantage of that. What I wanted to do with it was to dual boot Ubuntu 14.04 LTS for my computing tasks and Windows 8.1 for gaming. In my existing setup, I have 2x1TB Samsung 850 in RAID0. Although I felt it's possible just to clone my existing partitions from the raid array to the m.2, I decided to do a fresh install (and upgrade from a 6-year Windows 7 install to a Windows 8.1)
After backing up my existing data on the RAID0, the installation itself was pretty quick and painless. One funny thing I noticed in my BIOS settings was that if I set my PCIE x4 to M.2, instead of Auto, the M.2 will totally disappear from the boot menu. Only after setting it to auto it actually come up. I suppose upgrading the BIOS revision could possibly fix this, but I decided against it since I would have to redo all my OC settings again.
After that, I used gdisk to partition the m.2 manually, then proceeded to install Windows 8.1 first, then Ubuntu. Strangely enough, the Ubuntu install script didn't detect the Windows installation for some reason, although it's nothing that grub-update can't fix.
I then repartition the RAID0 disk to be my D:\ to store my games, and /home to store my work. Restored my backup to the RAID0 disk took almost 7 hours , since I have almost ~800GB worth of Games and ~600GB of other data (And also I assume this is because the Linux FUSE driver isn't the fastest in the world). After reinstalling drivers and the like, the whole process took me almost 10 hours.
I didn't time the booting time properly since I have the GRUB menu wait 10 seconds for a menu select, but it probably took 3-4 seconds from the Windows logo to the login screen. (and roughly the same time for my Ubuntu installation)
Some synthetic bench for the M.2 after my backup was restored (at 63% full out of 250GB, the other half is my Ubuntu install)
And the bench for my D:\ in the RAID0 partition (at 60% full out of 1.3TB, the rest would be /home for my Ubuntu install)
I haven't run any demanding games since I've been playing Trails in the Sky FC, but I imagine load times would roughly be the same, since they're still in the RAID0 partition. However, I tried to run Photoshop to crop the screenshots above and it fired up in 2 seconds flat (as opposed to 5 seconds when it was running from my RAID0)
The rest of my specs:
Asus RVE X99
16GB DDR4
2xGTX980
SomeOneInaHat
Member
Any recommendations on RAM for the price conscious (me)?
Edit: Your post was very helpful by the way.
Good idea, I probably don't want to buy a case for a long-term PC that will look outdated quickly. Definitely will be looking into different case designs!
Thanks! Just by doing a quick scan, a lot of things look like an improvement like the CPU and motherboard.
cebri.one
Member
Amazon.es for the gpu (i have a 100 voucher) . PCComponentes for the rest.
I could look for an alternate cooler and post it here, so u can tell me what you think. Other solution could be a bigger case.
Royal_Phalanx
Member
I thought a sound card was necessary for sound to play? I don't have a whole lot of experience with PC parts, so bear with me. Also I do need a wireless adaptor because I'm going to put it in my bedroom and I have a Wi-Fi router downstairs. I'm going to need a really long Ethernet cable to use a wired connection, and that's inconvenient.
Not at all, all motherboards come with onboard audio from 3.5mm jacks, usually 5.1. And some will output via optical onboard plus you have HDMI output which also outputs audio with video - ideal for TV.
Mobius and pet octopus
Member
I think I am going to settle on this SSD http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S9Q9VS4/?tag=neogaf0e-20
240gb SanDisk
I'll probably install windows, chrome, and a couple games. I'll use my HDD for the rest. Actually almost seems like 120gb would be enough for that but I figure I'll "futureproof" my use of it for when I buy a new PC it'll have more utility.
240gb SanDisk
I'll probably install windows, chrome, and a couple games. I'll use my HDD for the rest. Actually almost seems like 120gb would be enough for that but I figure I'll "futureproof" my use of it for when I buy a new PC it'll have more utility.
I got 100/100 FiOS and got ~104Mb/s down and ~113Mb/s up, so I know it at least slightly exceeds 100, but I guess I'll do some more serious networking once I move in and see what speeds I get...
Here, this will work for just about $1500.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($351.22 @ Vuugo)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.99 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($146.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($115.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.99 @ Canada Computers)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card ($413.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Antec P100 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ NCIX)
Optical Drive: LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($60.39 @ DirectCanada)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit) ($108.28 @ Canada Computers)
Total: $1497.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-26 21:37 EST-0500
Performance-wise it should be largely identical. I'd avoid that specific Gigabyte motherboard model you chose earlier because it appears to have issues and poor reviews (only 3/5 rating, numerous mentions of dead components or entirely dead motherboards). You definitely don't need 750 watts to power your parts, but Canadian prices being what they are, the EVGA B2 model is one of the cheapest that I'd trust that has nice features like modular cables.
I'll need to know a bit more about your setup. What model of power supply do you have and how much wattage? What is your existing RAM configuration (1x4GB? 2x2GB?) and what motherboard model do you have?
How much are you hoping to spend in total? I recommend this Gigabyte GTX 960 4GB from Amazon for 223 Euros.
Normally no, but if you want to try, you'll have to contact Microsoft. Be sure to tell them you are just replacing the motherboard, and don't call it a new PC, otherwise they'll tell you that a new PC means you have to buy another Windows license.
triplestation
Member
CPU
Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor
$0.00 (Purchased)
CPU Cooler
Corsair H80i GT 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
$79.99
Motherboard
EVGA Micro 2 Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
$268.42
Memory
G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
$119.99
Storage
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
$147.99
Video Card
EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB HYBRID Video Card
$750.00
Case
Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case
$0.00 (Purchased)
Power Supply
EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Total: $1486.38
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/triplestation/saved/z8vJ7P
Any last minute suggestions?
Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor
$0.00 (Purchased)
CPU Cooler
Corsair H80i GT 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
$79.99
Motherboard
EVGA Micro 2 Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
$268.42
Memory
G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
$119.99
Storage
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
$147.99
Video Card
EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB HYBRID Video Card
$750.00
Case
Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case
$0.00 (Purchased)
Power Supply
EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Total: $1486.38
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/triplestation/saved/z8vJ7P
Any last minute suggestions?
H100i GTX is $99.99 on Amazon if you want dual rad.
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