It works extremely well on a hard-wired LAN. Your mileage will vary greatly if you use it over Wifi, though.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
It works extremely well on a hard-wired LAN. Your mileage will vary greatly if you use it over Wifi, though.
Wowfunhappy
Member
Seriously, all the instruction manuals that came with my parts sucked. Even the one for my Fractal Design R5, which the company had clearly put a lot of effort into attempting to make easy to understand, was really difficult to decipher.
I never did figure out how to put the I/O shield in myself, and my computer still doesn't have one as a result.
So i need to downsize my computer into a mini-itx case due to some moving issues.
Want to keep my 4770k around so i need to pick out a motherboard. Not going to be OC'ing it so will I even need any Z chipset features or can i just pick up a H97 board?
Currently scouring FS boards hoping I can pick up something on the cheap as it looks like the remaining Z97 boards are about $160ish.
If anyone sees or has one for sale shoot me a pm.
Want to keep my 4770k around so i need to pick out a motherboard. Not going to be OC'ing it so will I even need any Z chipset features or can i just pick up a H97 board?
Currently scouring FS boards hoping I can pick up something on the cheap as it looks like the remaining Z97 boards are about $160ish.
If anyone sees or has one for sale shoot me a pm.
opticalmace
Member
The I/O shields are just pressure fit from the inside. They'll pop into place.
brandonh83
Banned
Well, this actually makes me feel better. I figured it would be like this, which is why I've been very ambivalent about building myself. I realize it's all not that complicated, but if there were clearer instructions that take more things into consideration, it would be so much easier. The motherboard installation instructions are ludicrous. It literally says "prepare the case and install the motherboard."
I figured as much as there's really no other indication of an alternate method, I just hate futzing with it and I'm trying to not touch the MB too much. I'm reading you're actually supposed to put the IO shield in first.
edit: got it, you're right, it literally just pops in, I did each corner first just pressing them in until they pop, and it's in there nice and securely. wtf. lol today is going to be INCREDIBLE. "It just popped in there."
Given the many hundreds of different parts, the manuals can't help but be a bit vague in order to cover as many scenarios as possible. If some part is weird/unique or has a highly specific method of installation that is different from the norm, then it'll come with its own instructions.
Or well, in the case of the I/O shield, they are all installed the same way. Look at the edges of the I/O shield, they have folded edges and a lip. It's supposed to fit snugly into the hole with tension alone because the folded edges push outward against the edges of the hole.
To actually put in the I/O shield, it is installed from the inside of the case. Press one corner of the shield against a corner of the rectangular hole. Then press in the next closest corner. You will need to use a bit of strength to push it in, and you may hear a snap or pop as it goes into place, this is normal. It's just the edge of the shield locking into place. Do the same thing for the other corners.
You can even opt for an H81, B85 motherboard if you wanted. The first two types are fairly inexpensive.
Hustler
Member
Any suggestions? I would like to stay around the same price range. I already bought the SSD and the GFX Card.
I'm really torn between buying the i5 or the i7, is it really that big a difference or worth it in the long run? I only upgrade my PC every 4-5 years.
[PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/qkWXxr) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/qkWXxr/by_merchant/)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80662i56600k) | $244.99 @ NCIX US
**CPU Cooler** | [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2) | $24.75 @ OutletPC
**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gaz170xpsli) | $125.99 @ Micro Center
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f43000c15d16gvrb) | $84.89 @ OutletPC
**Storage** | [Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz75e250bam) | $87.00 @ Amazon
**Video Card** | [EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-04gp43975kr) | $319.99 @ Micro Center
**Case** | [Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr5bk) | $109.99 @ NCIX US
**Power Supply** | [EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-110b20750vr) | $48.99 @ NCIX US
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1111.59
| Mail-in rebates | -$65.00
| **Total** | **$1046.59**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](http://pcpartpicker.com) 2016-02-26 13:02 EST-0500 |
I'm really torn between buying the i5 or the i7, is it really that big a difference or worth it in the long run? I only upgrade my PC every 4-5 years.
[PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/qkWXxr) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/qkWXxr/by_merchant/)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80662i56600k) | $244.99 @ NCIX US
**CPU Cooler** | [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2) | $24.75 @ OutletPC
**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gaz170xpsli) | $125.99 @ Micro Center
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f43000c15d16gvrb) | $84.89 @ OutletPC
**Storage** | [Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz75e250bam) | $87.00 @ Amazon
**Video Card** | [EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-04gp43975kr) | $319.99 @ Micro Center
**Case** | [Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr5bk) | $109.99 @ NCIX US
**Power Supply** | [EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-110b20750vr) | $48.99 @ NCIX US
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1111.59
| Mail-in rebates | -$65.00
| **Total** | **$1046.59**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](http://pcpartpicker.com) 2016-02-26 13:02 EST-0500 |
brandonh83
Banned
Yeah, I'm slowly figuring that one out. It does make sense as to why it can be vague. I just got the shield popped in, I had no idea that it was that simple, but I imagine there's going to be a heavy sense of discovery today lol.
btw thank you for your help with everything, it's definitely made this so much easier all things considered.
question, the case directions say to install the motherboard with the screws and standoffs. I found a bag with four longer gold colored screws and four small black ones. I'm not sure what standoffs are, are those the longer gold ones?
longdi
Banned
Is 4.3GHz at 1.25 VCORE alright for an i5 6600K? I have the MSI Z170A PC Mate (latest BIOS) and a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. I'm stress testing using AIDA64 and 10 mins in, my temps have yet to hit over 48 degrees.
HWMonitor shows that the "Package" hit a high of 49 degrees whereas Core 0 ht 45, 1 hit 48, 2 hit 41, and 3 hit 42, but cycle between mid 30s and low 40s for the most part.
Edit: HWMonitor results after 20:12 of AIDA64 stressing the CPU at 100%
I'm safe, GAF?
Good temps and you are definitely safe.
Try lowering to 1.18~1.2v vcore. Mine is able to run 4.3core/3.9cache using only 1.18v (1.168v under load with default LLC).
Try stress testing with Asus Realbench and X264 loop, which can be found in this thread
http://www.overclock.net/t/1570313/skylake-overclocking-guide-with-statistics
opticalmace
Member
Copy the BB code for an easier to read list:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.74 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($128.81 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.83 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($331.11 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $991.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-26 13:30 EST-0500
If I were in your shoes I would probably go for the i7.. as I tend to keep my systems for quite a long time. Not strictly necessary of course, the 6600K is mighty fast when overclocked. But the CPU for me is one of those things that doesn't get upgraded often, so I'd probably spend the extra bit for hyperthreading.
Wowfunhappy
Member
I still feel like they could do a better job. Seriously, the instruction manual for my Fractal Design R5 was nothing but pictures. I appreciate the pictures, but they really need to be accompanied by words so I understand what they're referencing!
And then there was that freaking Coolermaster 212 Evo that just didn't make any sense whatsoever. I wish I'd saved the instruction manual now so I could go back and point to all the things that simply weren't explained in a sensical way, but... Well, it was bad.
The one thing I remember being pretty clear was my motherboard.
Kind of a specific question, but hopefully someone here has some experience - is there a monitor setting or options which forces itself as the primary monitor on boot?
I have an Asus Gsync monitor (primary) and a Dell (secondary) both plugged into displayports on my 980ti. No matter which if the three displayports I use, if the Dell is plugged in it'll become the primary for the BIOS and Windows boot screen. The Asus will only right itself to primary once the desktop appears.
I've tried everything I can think of, even switching cables, but nothing changes. Could it be based on the 'boot' speed of the monitor chipset and the Dell is simply faster?
I have an Asus Gsync monitor (primary) and a Dell (secondary) both plugged into displayports on my 980ti. No matter which if the three displayports I use, if the Dell is plugged in it'll become the primary for the BIOS and Windows boot screen. The Asus will only right itself to primary once the desktop appears.
I've tried everything I can think of, even switching cables, but nothing changes. Could it be based on the 'boot' speed of the monitor chipset and the Dell is simply faster?
Yeah, I'm slowly figuring that one out. It does make sense as to why it can be vague. I just got the shield popped in, I had no idea that it was that simple, but I imagine there's going to be a heavy sense of discovery today lol.
btw thank you for your help with everything, it's definitely made this so much easier all things considered.
question, the case directions say to install the motherboard with the screws and standoffs. I found a bag with four longer gold colored screws and four small black ones. I'm not sure what standoffs are, are those the longer gold ones?
Yes, those are the standoffs. You'll want to put those into the holes in the case where your motherboard is going to sit, then you lay the motherboard on those. The standoffs should match where the holes on your motherboard are. Depending on the form factor of your motherboard (ATX, ITX and such), you will only need certain standoffs installed. The manual for your case -should- have this info. Sometimes they will indicate in tiny writing beside the hole but I wouldn't count on that. Otherwise what I used to do is lay the board down and see where the holes on the motherboard match the holes in the case, then take the motherboard back out and put the standoffs in the appropriate holes.
Then you use those black screws to fasten the motherboard to the standoffs.
Hustler
Member
Thanks for the suggestion. How easy is it to overclock, is there an easy to follow guide? I've never done it and am always worried of potentially ruining the processor. I'm the same way with GFX cards.
Yeah, I'm slowly figuring that one out. It does make sense as to why it can be vague. I just got the shield popped in, I had no idea that it was that simple, but I imagine there's going to be a heavy sense of discovery today lol.
btw thank you for your help with everything, it's definitely made this so much easier all things considered.
question, the case directions say to install the motherboard with the screws and standoffs. I found a bag with four longer gold colored screws and four small black ones. I'm not sure what standoffs are, are those the longer gold ones?
No problem, we're all here to help. These are motherboard standoffs, they're screws with screw holes in them. They're used to prop up the motherboard so it isn't directly touching the case that the motherboard is mounted in.
You're supposed to screw the gold standoffs into the case, making sure they're not loose. Then when you put the motherboard in, lower it in at an angle and align it with the I/O shield first and then lay it on top of the standoffs. The standoffs should align with the screw holes on the motherboard, but may be off slightly due to the I/O shield sometimes pushing back on the motherboard (which is normal). Just use your hand to hold the motherboard down to align the screw holes and then install the black screws to secure the motherboard in place.
And someone might have mentioned before, but just to say again; with the 212 Evo, it's easier to install the CPU and CPU cooler onto the motherboard before you put it into the case, especially because the 212 Evo requires a backplate to be mounted under the motherboard.
I've heard lots of first-timers having issues with it. I don't have a problem with it, but then again I've installed a whole bunch of them over the last few years. It's still my go-to for CPU cooler recommendations, but I guess I could start recommending the somewhat more expensive but easier to install Cryorig coolers more often.
opticalmace
Member
Very easy and very safe (unless you go for an insane overclock of course). There are lots of guides around that people can link to you. There's probably one linked in the OP.
Collateral22
Member
http://www.ebuyer.com/666705-asus-gtx-970-strix-directcu-ii-oc-4gb-gddr5-dual-dvi-hdmi-strix-gtx970-dc2oc-4gd5
Great deal for anyone in the UK. Pity they only ship to the UK though. GTX 970 w/FC Primal, The Division and a 240GB SSD for £291
Great deal for anyone in the UK. Pity they only ship to the UK though. GTX 970 w/FC Primal, The Division and a 240GB SSD for £291
holygeesus
Banned
You can over-tighten motherboard screws. My very first build years ago, I couldn't figure why I was having problems with re-booting - took me hours to find out that one of my screws was too tight and causing a short somewhere.
brandonh83
Banned
Once I found out that the standoffs basically act as a platform, I figured it out and just got it in there. Doing the power supply next (still waiting on my memory and actual CPU to come in). And yeah it looks like I'll have to take it off to install the cooler. Oh well, no biggie.
Wowfunhappy
Member
My solution is to use a wireless KB&M. There is some added latency, or course, but it's super nice to be able to plop my mouse down whereever.
I personally have an Apple Bluetooth Keyboard (non-Magic) and an original-model Razer Orochi.
I use a Lenovo N5902 when I am using my PC on the TV. It's backlit (huge plus) and the mouse and keys are decently responsive. The living room is not the primary use place for my PC so I don't need a full size KB/M. Basically if I have to do anything like switch resolution or fiddle with some settings, that thing does the job quite well. Most of my PC gaming on the TV is done with a controller anyways.
If I am playing a game with KB/M I sit at the desk in front of the monitor, because using a mouse and keyboard while sitting 10 feet away on my couch has never and will never feel right to me.
holygeesus
Banned
You could always use the controller companion app instead of a mouse + keyboard, if you aren't playing competitive gaming that requires said M+KB.
Costs a couple of quid and is the best thing I've bought on Steam in yonks.
http://store.steampowered.com/app/367670/
Costs a couple of quid and is the best thing I've bought on Steam in yonks.
http://store.steampowered.com/app/367670/
Does anyone know how a Xeon E3-1200 would handle gaming? I was a able to get a tower with one in it for dirt cheap. It looks good via PassMark, but those numbers can be deceiving.
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=1204&cmp[]=804
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=1204&cmp[]=804
The Steam controller does the trick for me these days, but I don't play competitively. Back in 2012 I built myself a mobile desk of sorts that reached over my lap, and gave me a stable surface where to place my wireless KB&M. It was a neat little contraption, but ended up being too much trouble for someone who doesn't enjoy gaming on KB&M anyway. So, I ditched it last year for the Steam controller and never looked back.
I also have one of those Lenovo N5902s, and a Logitech K830 by my side on the couch at all times.
It's very comparable to a same generation i7 processor. In this case, it should be very similar to the i7 2600. It shouldn't be a bottleneck for most games, and won't struggle to give you 60FPS so long as the graphics card is good enough.
brandonh83
Banned
Alright! Rest of my parts came in. CPU cooler looks easy enough to assemble and attach to the motherboard-- just one question, do I need to apply thermal paste to anything before I stick the CPU into the motherboard? The CPU cooler came with paste, but the processor manual doesn't necessarily mention anything about applying paste first. Just being super careful.
I appreciate the input. I wasn't sure if it being server class would handicap it some way for games. Thanks!
brandonh83
Banned
Running into a new problem, I put the CPU into the motherboard and now the little locking/securing mechanism won't come down, there's a screw that is preventing it from closing but every video I've seen of other motherboards doesn't seem to indicate that you actually ever remove that screw.
It'll be fine, these are branded as server processors but they're based off the same design as the desktop consumer processors. The only thing they're missing is integrated graphics, so a graphics card is always needed.
Yes, you have to apply it. Take the motherboard out of the case, install the processor (be extremely careful not to touch or bend any pins or get anything inside the CPU socket), attach the backplate, put a dab of thermal paste on top of the processor (small pea or 2 rice grains worth), and then install the CPU cooler. There are many youtube videos showing how to install it.
brandonh83
Banned
Applied the paste already and tried to lock the thing down which is when I ran into the problem. Apparently it does require a bit of force, so I'm going to (extremely carefully) mess with it a bit more to see if I can get it.
This is making me too nervous, I'm pushing down on it pretty hard but it's not closing.
EVA UNIT 01
Member
I believe in you!
If I did it and felt like I was gonna snap my MB then you can too!
...sure it took 8 hrs but hey!
brandonh83
Banned
I mean I'm pushing on it pretty damn hard and the indentation in the middle where the screw sort of fills it in... it's just not sliding in or clicking or anything. I don't imagine it SHOULD require this much force just to lock in a chip.
The screw is not to be removed. You can shift the locking brace around to slide it under the screw. If it's not low enough to slip under the screw, then make sure you put in the processor correctly. It should be sitting in the socket with the two little gaps on the sides of the processor fitting with the plastic indentations of the socket.
brandonh83
Banned
I got it. I took the CPU out and back in, and it went down better. Now onto many more problems I'm sure!
J_ToSaveTheDay
Member
Frequent builders --
I recently had my gaming PC fail out on me, so I'm needing to plan a new build.
To be straight up, I actually gave most of my GOOD components to friends, because I wasn't going to be able to afford to do a build for a while. I'm still saving up, so it's not going to be an IMMEDIATE trigger pull but I can see it being easily viable within the next 2-3 months. I had an i7-3770k and GTX970, both of which have now been given out to friends to enhance their own builds. I think the only two components I'm going to salvage from my old build are my Corsair H100 CPU liquid cooler and the 750W PSU.
Anyway, I'm just thinking GPUs that are coming up. I tend to be an nVidia fan in the GPU department (haven't used an AMD since the Radeon 9800 Pro -- been a looooooong time) and I know nVidia's got a new set of cards to reveal and probably release sometime this year, and I know we don't know a lot of solid information on what they're actually going to be like or where they're going to price.
That said, in 2-3 months time I can probably afford a machine that's powered by an i7-6700k and a 980Ti -- a very well specced machine based on what's available now, although with my positive experiences using the 970 I may just compromise and go for lower-priced options. I'm wondering if we can reasonably speculate that the new cards will be specced for smooth 4K and VR support, or if we can expect it to just be another stepping stone in that general direction? I'm talking 4K/60fps to be specific, since I know current GPUs can handle 4k but usually in the 30-45fps range.
4K/60fps and a smooth VR experience are honestly where I'd like to go with my next build, but wondering if there's enough reason to wait and expect nVidia to deliver that with their new card lineup or if it will be a year or two yet before that standard can be easily achieved... Or if I should just go for a well-specced current machine in a few months time when my budget allows, and accept my current gold standard of 1080p/60fps.
EDIT: One final note -- I am okay with 4K/60fps without completely max settings, as long as I'm beating my consoles at IQ level. The upres already presents a much better IQ over the 720-1080p presentation of consoles, but I'm talking about settings like shadows, etc all generally being better, even if not by much.
I recently had my gaming PC fail out on me, so I'm needing to plan a new build.
To be straight up, I actually gave most of my GOOD components to friends, because I wasn't going to be able to afford to do a build for a while. I'm still saving up, so it's not going to be an IMMEDIATE trigger pull but I can see it being easily viable within the next 2-3 months. I had an i7-3770k and GTX970, both of which have now been given out to friends to enhance their own builds. I think the only two components I'm going to salvage from my old build are my Corsair H100 CPU liquid cooler and the 750W PSU.
Anyway, I'm just thinking GPUs that are coming up. I tend to be an nVidia fan in the GPU department (haven't used an AMD since the Radeon 9800 Pro -- been a looooooong time) and I know nVidia's got a new set of cards to reveal and probably release sometime this year, and I know we don't know a lot of solid information on what they're actually going to be like or where they're going to price.
That said, in 2-3 months time I can probably afford a machine that's powered by an i7-6700k and a 980Ti -- a very well specced machine based on what's available now, although with my positive experiences using the 970 I may just compromise and go for lower-priced options. I'm wondering if we can reasonably speculate that the new cards will be specced for smooth 4K and VR support, or if we can expect it to just be another stepping stone in that general direction? I'm talking 4K/60fps to be specific, since I know current GPUs can handle 4k but usually in the 30-45fps range.
4K/60fps and a smooth VR experience are honestly where I'd like to go with my next build, but wondering if there's enough reason to wait and expect nVidia to deliver that with their new card lineup or if it will be a year or two yet before that standard can be easily achieved... Or if I should just go for a well-specced current machine in a few months time when my budget allows, and accept my current gold standard of 1080p/60fps.
EDIT: One final note -- I am okay with 4K/60fps without completely max settings, as long as I'm beating my consoles at IQ level. The upres already presents a much better IQ over the 720-1080p presentation of consoles, but I'm talking about settings like shadows, etc all generally being better, even if not by much.
If your consoles are more your preferred method of gaming, I think a 950 or a 4GB 960 will be fine.
I don't know KI's system requirements, but fighting games tend to be fine on PC. XCOM 2 I hear can be taxing on certain machines, so definitely medium to high settings will have to do.
Keep an eye out on sites like Slickdeals, there are often deals on video cards posted. I saw an MSI 950 recently for like $120.
SecretMoblin
Member
Hi all,
you guys (especially haz) helped me quite a bit in 2012 when I built my first PC, and since my HDD is scaring me a lot, I'm sort of in the emergency market for a good SSD and probably a good external drive to dump ~1.5TB of data on.
Additionally, I'm wondering what the process would be to transfer my Windows 8.1 copy (it's legit) to the new drive. I haven't upgraded to W10 despite getting all those popups, should I do that process first and then transfer the license? Is that even something that's possible? I'm sure you guys get that question a lot.
If it gets to that point, I may be swapping out my CPU/MOBO.... what are the best affordable water cooling options for someone who doesn't want to mess around with tubing etc?
Finally and least importantly, what is the standard protocol for SSDs? I've never owned one. I assume park the OS there as well as big programs I don't intend to delete (Steam/browser/etc)?
you guys (especially haz) helped me quite a bit in 2012 when I built my first PC, and since my HDD is scaring me a lot, I'm sort of in the emergency market for a good SSD and probably a good external drive to dump ~1.5TB of data on.
Additionally, I'm wondering what the process would be to transfer my Windows 8.1 copy (it's legit) to the new drive. I haven't upgraded to W10 despite getting all those popups, should I do that process first and then transfer the license? Is that even something that's possible? I'm sure you guys get that question a lot.
If it gets to that point, I may be swapping out my CPU/MOBO.... what are the best affordable water cooling options for someone who doesn't want to mess around with tubing etc?
Finally and least importantly, what is the standard protocol for SSDs? I've never owned one. I assume park the OS there as well as big programs I don't intend to delete (Steam/browser/etc)?
1. While I have never had any SSD of any brand (I use Samsung, Crucial and Sandisk in my current machines) fail on me, I think the general consensus is that the Samsung models are the most reliable/performant.
2. You need to upgrade from 8.1 anyway. So what would be smart imo, is: backup your data (photos, movies, documents...) to your external hard drive, then delete the excessive data until your installation fits the SSD size. Clone your drive to the SSD (I think samsung offers software for this + ships an USB-SATA adapter with their SSDs as well; but there are other software solutions for this of course). Then remove your old drive and boot from the SSD => upgrade to win10. In the worst case scenario, you still have your old drive with a working 8.1.
3. .... But if you swap your motherboard, you should install windows from scratch anyway lol (Win 8.1 => Win 10). I should read posts completely before answering
4. Yeah, I have my OS on it and daily use programs like steam, office, creative cloud.
brandonh83
Banned
Which way should the fan on the CPU cooler be facing? Probably my most embarrassing question yet, but there it is.
I'm reading that the fan should face the back of the case, but again, just wanting to be sure.
I'm reading that the fan should face the back of the case, but again, just wanting to be sure.
First, any mid range PC or above (w/~$200 GPU and 4 core CPU) will pretty much destroy a console in terms of the combination of visual fidelity and framerates.
Just to confirm, as you stated, a 980 Ti is not enough for "smooth" 4K/60fps. Although, this is on a game by game basis. GTAV runs at about 30-45fps on max with no AA. While pCARS can easily run above 60fps (I get 90+ on 980 Ti Classified). Same deal with VR. Make a list of the games you want to play (in 4K and VR) and research the hardware requirements for each respective game. Note: for VR you won't know this until VR games are actually out in the market.
At the moment, we do not know what class of GPU Nvidia will be releasing for the launch of their next architecture (Pascal). Will it be the "cut down" 1070/1080 or their Titan/Ti "full" class card. Without this information it is hard to estimate how well they will be able to drive VR/4K. If history is a guide (980>780Ti, etc), assume it will be at least equivalent to this gen's Ti. Thus it is very hard to give you a definitive course of action. With that said, we are close enough to the launch of this new GPU (Nvidia's big trade show is in April), that you should wait until they announce... whatever they announce.
I would highly recommend taking a rain check on VR though. First, The Rift is sold out until July. The Vive should be similar once pre-orders are up. In addition to that, it would be wise to wait until the holiday so inevitable bugs can be patched, critical opinions levied and some consensus on the overall quality of VR games and VR in general is perceivable.
In addition, VR and 4K are not the only headline "technologies" you should have on your radar. Display port 1.3 and High Dynamic Range (HDR) may not seem that great on the surface, but should deliver a definitively superior experience and will only be possible on next generation GPUs. Display port 1.3 will enable the combination of higher refresh rates with high resolutions (as well as HDR). See image below.
4K is nice, but I stand firmly in the framerate>resolution camp. I also stand in the image quality>resolution camp (HDR>4K). I got to see a Vizio 4K HDR TV in NY and it completely ruined all screens (from and IQ perspective) for me. 3440x1440 at 144hz w/HDR and G-Sync on a quality panel should be pretty close to gaming perfection (IMO). This will obviously require a VERY powerful card likely Titan/1080 Ti or SLI 1070/1080 (Ti is probably a year away). Also these monitors won't be cheap at launch (later this year).
I realize I probably didn't make your decision any more clear. That being said the big takeaway is, now more than ever, it is worth considering all the moving pieces in the PC gaming landscape.
Like I said in this post, with a help of a friend I disassembled the rig and cleaned a bit more. We applied a new thermal paste and now the temps dropped even further from 26-29ºC when using just Chrome+Discord from the original 45!! It's probably a combination of new thermal plaste, all the cleaning and the improved airflow. After helping me choose the parts when I first bought the rig, you guys helped me a lot again and I can't thank you enough!
I also decided to swap my GTX 770 for a 970 instead of waiting for Pascal and I have to say that I should have done this before as the jump is performance for such a low cost (~150 + the division key) is outstanding! From 2.5 to 7.5 in the Steam VR Test and from 6.5 to 9.5 in the 3DMark one.
My build now is:
i5 3570k
asus p8z77v-lk
gskill 2x 8gb 2400MHz CL11
msi g1 gtx 970
xfx 650w
fractal r4
hyper 212 evo
crucial mx100 250gb
WD 1TB blue
I'm thinking about further improvements now that I have some extra to spend (100/200) and I've been thinking about getting a Phanteks P400S which seems really good for the price and maybe a Corsair H100 cooler instead of the hyper 212. What do you suggest?
Thanks for the tip once again! Did just that
Back. Check the cooler it'll have an arrow on it showing the direction of airflow.
brandonh83
Banned
drhankmccoyphd
Member
Where are you looking at a GTX 970 for $460? Those cards typically run about $300.
brandonh83
Banned
Holy shit WTF is up with the "X" bracket that mounts the CPU fan above the motherboard (on the 212 Evo)? When I screw a few in, the opposite side is lifted up away from the screw holes. I've been reading online and other people have had the same problem.
Here's a link discussing the very same problem
Here's a link discussing the very same problem
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