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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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RayStorm

Member
What has to be added to the "my CPU is ancient, but I want a new high end GPU": A bottleneck is not created by hardware alone. Settings (resolution, AA etc. which depend solely on the GPU) set to a high enough level will allow a potential bottleneck to vanish if only set high enough. Example: If you were to play in Surround (with 3 screens of 4k each) the difference between different CPUs would likely be rather small, whereas using a high end GPU, perhaps even in SLI should give you pretty solid gains even on very old CPUs. Obviously though that is a unlikely scenario, but one that should not be forgotten, as at least you can bump upthe eyecandy even when your CPU holds you back.
 
My new beastly 980Ti box, I almost never see tearing... except when a game loads a new area/just loads then I'll get a few seconds of tearing before it goes away, not to be seen again. Very noticeable in Bioshock Infinite. This is with a Samsung 850 Evo SSD. Any ideas?
 

RGM79

Member
thanks. DVD burner is sata connector (smaller l-shape) so I'm good there.

as for sound card, I was surprised to see it on the list and didn't know those were actually still a thing... I'll drop it off. what is the purpose of a soundcard these days?

Nowadays, onboard sound is good enough for most people (read: non-audiophiles) because they can have enough features to support a variety of things like 7.1 surround and optical audio and are at the point that they're not automatically crap. Still, there are those that want a sound card for various reasons like driving a set of high end speakers or headphones, or needing a specific feature or capability for audio recording or something.

What's the main advantage that I gonna have for buying premium casing pc, over budget one like let say Venomrx thunderbolt?

Different cases are designed differently and will perform differently in regards to airflow, cooling, noise, build quality, storage space, ease of installation, cable routing, support for water cooling, and looks. And yes, people can brag about it.

Awesome, i was playing around with some options and came to similar conclusions about the cpu, but everything else here is a surprise, but interesting. I'm thinking about bumping up my budget a couple of hundred and also just grabbing a monitor to go with the new setup. I saw an ips, LED for 200ish, but it was 5ms, vs a few 1ms monitors without ips. I'm not well versed with ips though, so for all i know, it's not worth it.

I'm not much of a monitor guy myself, so you'll have to decide if you want the better picture quality or lower response time.

My new beastly 980Ti box, I almost never see tearing... except when a game loads a new area/just loads then I'll get a few seconds of tearing before it goes away, not to be seen again. Very noticeable in Bioshock Infinite. This is with a Samsung 850 Evo SSD. Any ideas?

What are the rest of your system specs? And this is with every game?
 

sfried

Member
Do you have a budget in mind? Going with Intel's Skylake would be a good fit for your new PC requirements.
I'm trying to aim and keep the budget at around $500 but if I must spend more then I will (if these parts can be paid via Paypal Credit, the better), but I'm hoping not to exceed $1000. I have no intention of overclocking nor do I need to reach 4k displays, but this time I would at least have a more than the expected requirements needed to do Oculus Rift/VR gaming.
 

DToneli

Neo Member
Hey guys, 2 quick questions:

1 - What is the equivalent to a 920M 2GB DDR3 (something like a GT 450 maybe?)

2- What is more important for programs like AutoCAD, RAM or CPU?

If the rest of the specs matter:

CPU: Intel i5 (5th Gen)

RAM: 8GB x 1 DDR3L, 1600MHz

Will upgrade to a PC in the future but I'll be using this laptop for a while (until the dollar price gets a little lower)
 

fred

Member
If anyone is looking for a cheap i7 6700K you may be able to find one here.

It'sn out of stock at the moment but when I checked it a few hours ago there was one left. Tried to place an order and someone got in before me. Wasn't a happy bunny. Around an hour later I had another look because PCPartPicker still had it at that price and they had got more stock in. It's out of stock at the moment but might be worth checking it regularly just in case it comes back in stock at that price.

Works out as 286.92 GBP including delivery, and it's DPD too so their delivery service is great.
 

Sevenfold

Member
Yeah it doesn't look good on your end. I've yet to upgrade my OEM W7 and since I am looking to upgrade to a new build soon and donate my current rig to family, I'll probably leave W7 on it and avoid them having issues with re-installs.

For OEM users the upgrade process with no key is a joke. I tried to research a bit and found these videos (there are many similar)...it does ask you for a key before install. It does allow you to skip it too. I am not sure however what happens if you skip it and then W10 finds your hardware has no ID. Since you're doing a new build (changing motherboard no less) the specific hardware ID (or whatever its name is) of W7 OEM goes bye bye.

I hit a dead end with CS. kind of pissed because 2011 isn't that long ago and my receipt should yield my key even with some messing about. I'm going to pursue it out of principle even if it's just to get another key from the upgrade path, as for now, the build went fine. I Leeroyed my way through the radiator install, amused at how I'd managed to get so far without installation being a consideration. Luckily my trusty TJ09 is very forgiving in instances like this and with rad in barely making a difference and freshly removed mid fan/dust magnet giving its interior an arena level of space everything else was a breeze.
Installing keyless from USB at least gets you into Windows and despite asking for your key twice during the install (the second a more ominous 'It's time to enter your key'') Windows works as normal (though a couple of blocked features I noticed were not being able to customize visuals etc.) and a visible nag on the settings screen.
 
What are the rest of your system specs? And this is with every game?
4790K, 16GB ram, Win 10. Not every game no. It's just very odd that if I ever see tearing, it's always on loading a new area. If I look at a 'loading' doorway in Bioshock, I get tearing. Or shortly after transitioning through it.
 

fred

Member
I hit a dead end with CS. kind of pissed because 2011 isn't that long ago and my receipt should yield my key even with some messing about. I'm going to pursue it out of principle even if it's just to get another key from the upgrade path, as for now, the build went fine. I Leeroyed my way through the radiator install, amused at how I'd managed to get so far without installation being a consideration. Luckily my trusty TJ09 is very forgiving in instances like this and with rad in barely making a difference and freshly removed mid fan/dust magnet giving its interior an arena level of space everything else was a breeze.
Installing keyless from USB at least gets you into Windows and despite asking for your key twice during the install (the second a more ominous 'It's time to enter your key'') Windows works as normal (though a couple of blocked features I noticed were not being able to customize visuals etc.) and a visible nag on the settings screen.

Just pirate Windows 7.1, install it, activate it. Then go for the free update to Windows 10. It's not legal but you're fully justified in doing it.
 

Oemenia

Banned
I'm mostly looking to play older games and RTSs like Far Cry 3, Starcraft 2 and STALKER, mostly last-gen stuff that is way better on PC. Thanks for the info though, learned a lot but generally is it a one way street from here, the more powerful the GPU the more bottlenecking? AFAIK architectures do improve so its not all about more brute power so will it be not as simple?

Also what can I do to help the problem, is it better to go all out on the settings since I won't be losing much or can I lower my settings to get a better framerate?
 

fertygo

Member
You get to brag about spending more on a case.

Different cases are designed differently and will perform differently in regards to airflow, cooling, noise, build quality, storage space, ease of installation, cable routing, support for water cooling, and looks. And yes, people can brag about it.

So if I only care about space, its not matter that much? If I'm buying 60$ case instead 150$ case and they both provide similar space?

tempted to free some budget for case then
 

pislit

Member
Anyone has Fractal Design Node 500 case? Can't seem to find a review in the Internetz and it is now available in a nearby store.

Edit: Fudge, never mind, the store listed it as "Node 500" when it is supposed to be Core 500, wrong keywords in Google searching lol.
 

bro1

Banned
Anyone has Fractal Design Node 500 case? Can't seem to find a review in the Internetz and it is now available in a nearby store.

Edit: Fudge, never mind, the store listed it as "Node 500" when it is supposed to be Core 500, wrong keywords in Google searching lol.
Just got a R5 5 and there is a scratch on the case. Going to take the side door in to the shop on Tuesday so they can replace it.
 

LilJoka

Member
What has to be added to the "my CPU is ancient, but I want a new high end GPU": A bottleneck is not created by hardware alone. Settings (resolution, AA etc. which depend solely on the GPU) set to a high enough level will allow a potential bottleneck to vanish if only set high enough. Example: If you were to play in Surround (with 3 screens of 4k each) the difference between different CPUs would likely be rather small, whereas using a high end GPU, perhaps even in SLI should give you pretty solid gains even on very old CPUs. Obviously though that is a unlikely scenario, but one that should not be forgotten, as at least you can bump upthe eyecandy even when your CPU holds you back.

You might find a different story if you look at minimum frame rates and frame times as the CPU chokes.
 

M.D

Member
I'm thinking of buying a new case for my PC, but I'm not sure I really need to
I've had this Antec 900 since '08 and it served me well, but it draws a ton of dust (and its also quite loud but I'm used to that by now)

Are all PC cases like this, or is there a case that could provide similar cooling and airflow and not function as a vacuum cleaner doing so?
 

GnawtyDog

Banned
I hit a dead end with CS. kind of pissed because 2011 isn't that long ago and my receipt should yield my key even with some messing about. I'm going to pursue it out of principle even if it's just to get another key from the upgrade path, as for now, the build went fine. I Leeroyed my way through the radiator install, amused at how I'd managed to get so far without installation being a consideration. Luckily my trusty TJ09 is very forgiving in instances like this and with rad in barely making a difference and freshly removed mid fan/dust magnet giving its interior an arena level of space everything else was a breeze.
Installing keyless from USB at least gets you into Windows and despite asking for your key twice during the install (the second a more ominous 'It's time to enter your key'') Windows works as normal (though a couple of blocked features I noticed were not being able to customize visuals etc.) and a visible nag on the settings screen.

I see. Well at the least you could test your rig components for no DOA or general defectiveness. I don't know how someone from the OEM upgrade path can keep W10 if they ever decide to change the motherboard, the main component that's the base for whatever "internal ID" MS generates. It's BS but like others have said, better than nothing. Keep the fight and get that key. $100+ is worth a call or two :) .. plenty of gas for a month.
 

NetMapel

Guilty White Male Mods Gave Me This Tag
Hey guys. Just have a really dumb question. I have a fairly old Apple Cinema Display that I would like to get it to work on my Windows 10 machine. The Apple Display come with a big box that has a DVI cable, a USB cable and also something that looks like it predates Apple's thunderbolt port. Anyways, obviously my PC is not going to have Apple proprietary port on it, so I tried connecting it with the DVI. However, it is not working and the monitor remains black. I am wondering if I need some kind of adaptor for that in order to work ? I've tried looking up online and the answer is all mumble jumble that doesn't make any sense. Thanks for answering :)
 
My nephew was asking me for some advice on a build, so I did some research having been out of the loop on hardware for about year.

Can someone tell me why the Build Guide still recommends the 970 over the R9 390?

The 390:
  • About the same price, cheaper in much of Europe
  • More than Double the VRAM, 8GB vs 3.5GB, making it better for higher resolutions and future games
  • Wins in performance for most benchmarks, especially after the new drivers
  • Better DX12 performance
As I understand it, the 970 runs cooler and has better overclocking headroom. Most reviews suggest those aren't enough to outweigh the 390 advantages. Is there something I'm missing?
 

RGM79

Member
I'm thinking of buying a new case for my PC, but I'm not sure I really need to
I've had this Antec 900 since '08 and it served me well, but it draws a ton of dust (and its also quite loud but I'm used to that by now)

Are all PC cases like this, or is there a case that could provide similar cooling and airflow and not function as a vacuum cleaner doing so?

Nope. There are cases with noise-dampening design that also have dust filters and adequate airflow. Fractal Design make a few cases that suit that thinking.

There's also the concept of "positive pressure" airflow for cases where you have more fans drawing air into the case than fans blowing air out. The pressure inside the case is slightly higher than outside, meaning dust doesn't naturally come into the case through various vents and openings (while dust filters and covers on the rest of the PC prevent dust from getting in via the intake fans).
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Building a PC for my girlfriends dad.

Still trying to get use case and budget out of him, but for now we'll assume general office use.

So, I'm thinking Fractal Define Mini...love the case and good soundproofing and dust filtering would be appreciated I think. Silverstone PSU the way to go? AMD as well? What about SSD?

Been out of the loop for a while...haven't built anything since the 2500K days.

Fake edit: budget $1000 Canadian. Office use.
 

RGM79

Member
Building a PC for my girlfriends dad.

Still trying to get use case and budget out of him, but for now we'll assume general office use.

So, I'm thinking Fractal Define Mini...love the case and good soundproofing and dust filtering would be appreciated I think. Silverstone PSU the way to go? AMD as well? What about SSD?

Been out of the loop for a while...haven't built anything since the 2500K days.

Fake edit: budget $1000 Canadian. Office use.

Does he require a monitor? Keyboard and mouse? Windows?

Define Mini is nice, but a cheaper alternative might be the Cooler Master Silencio 352 ($65 after rebate), it also has sound-dampening foam and dust filters. Silverstone has certain PSUs that are nice, but there are other brands I'd look at first. AMD is alright if you want to go with a cheaper APU system with good integrated graphics, otherwise Intel is preferable for the better CPU performance. SSD is nice to have and definitely doable on your budget.

If it's just office work, you can probably get away with spending less than $1000.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Does he require a monitor? Keyboard and mouse? Windows?

Define Mini is nice, but a cheaper alternative might be the Cooler Master Silencio 352 ($65 after rebate), it also has sound-dampening foam and dust filters. Silverstone has certain PSUs that are nice, but there are other brands I'd look at first. AMD is alright if you want to go with a cheaper APU system with good integrated graphics, otherwise Intel is preferable for the better CPU performance. SSD is nice to have and definitely doable on your budget.

If it's just office work, you can probably get away with spending less than $1000.

No worries about the peripherals. I have plenty lying around.

After looking at reviews and components, I'm nearly decided on the following:

Case: Fractal Define Mini $120
PSU: eVGA 430W $45
CPU: Intel G3258 $90
Motherboard: undecided...H97? ~$100
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB $140

We're up to $495 + tax.

Was kind of worried just going with a 2 core CPU since he wants it to last...but I'm having a hard time justifying 2.5x the price for a 4 core i5 4460.

He needs Wi-Fi...do any motherboard come with it built in? Besides that, a DVD drive and mouse/keyboard if he needs it. I'm well under $600.
 

kennah

Member
There aren't many microatx boards that come with wifi. But you can get an add in card for cheap.

The dual core will be fine, and it allows an upgrade path if it isn't. I wouldn't expect its graphics to do anything more than basic windows.
 

RGM79

Member
No worries about the peripherals. I have plenty lying around.

After looking at reviews and components, I'm nearly decided on the following:

Case: Fractal Define Mini $120
PSU: eVGA 430W $45
CPU: Intel G3258 $90
Motherboard: undecided...H97? ~$100
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB $140

We're up to $495 + tax.

Was kind of worried just going with a 2 core CPU since he wants it to last...but I'm having a hard time justifying 2.5x the price for a 4 core i5 4460.

He needs Wi-Fi...do any motherboard come with it built in? Besides that, a DVD drive and mouse/keyboard if he needs it. I'm well under $600.

Looks like you have a plan. You could consider an i3 processor instead of an i5. If nothing else, bumping up to an i5 processor ensures the PC will have solid performance for a few years longer.

If you want built-in wifi, you'll need to go with an mITX or ATX size motherboard. No mATX motherboards include integrated wifi. Otherwise, a USB or PCI-E wifi adaptor will do what you want.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Any motherboard advice? I notice they have differing amounts of graphics memory...I'm not even sure if that's of any importance at all. Quick boot times would be a priority. Micro ATX. 4 DIMMs is a bonus, but honestly, 2 is probably fine.

Motherboard shopping was much easier in the 2500K days. There are way too many chipsets to choose from now.

Edit: B85 seems to be a good candidate.
 

RGM79

Member
Any motherboard advice? I notice they have differing amounts of graphics memory...I'm not even sure if that's of any importance at all. Quick boot times would be a priority. Micro ATX. 4 DIMMs is a bonus, but honestly, 2 is probably fine.

Motherboard shopping was much easier in the 2500K days. There are way too many chipsets to choose from now.

Edit: B85 seems to be a good candidate. Might just go with H97 for $15 more though.

Edit2: MSI H81M-E34 for $70. That's probably the cheapest I'll find.

What are the rest of your parts looking like? What country are you in? H81 and B85 are suitable choices for those looking to save money. I don't know what you mean by graphics memory, these motherboards don't have any onboard graphics.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
What are the rest of your parts looking like? What country are you in? H81 and B85 are suitable choices for those looking to save money. I don't know what you mean by graphics memory, these motherboards don't have any onboard graphics.

Country: Canada

Case: Fractal Define Mini
PSU: EVGA 430W
CPU: Intel G3258
Memory: Kingston HyperX 8GB DDR3-1866 (same price as 1600)
SSD: Crucial BX100 250GB

When looking at motherboard pages, they list a maximum shared onboard video memory. Some are 512mb, many are 1GB, some go as high as nearly 2GB. I can't really see the use of that much memory for integrated graphics, though. Just a curiosity.
 

RGM79

Member
Country: Canada

Case: Fractal Define Mini
PSU: EVGA 430W
CPU: Intel G3258
Memory: Kingston HyperX 8GB DDR3-1866 (same price as 1600)
SSD: Crucial BX100 250GB

When looking at motherboard pages, they list a maximum shared onboard video memory. Some are 512mb, many are 1GB, some go as high as nearly 2GB. I can't really see the use of that much memory for integrated graphics, though. Just a curiosity.

Given how weak most integrated graphics are, the extra shared memory won't make much of a difference, especially if the PC won't be used for any games.

I'm not sure what prices you're seeing, are they similar to this? The prices below are after rebate but before taxes.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($86.99 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: ASRock B85M-DGS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($54.95 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Team Dark 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($53.69 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($108.39 @ Vuugo)
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($109.88 @ Canada Computers)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $463.89
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-05 14:38 EDT-0400
 

Sevenfold

Member
I see. Well at the least you could test your rig components for no DOA or general defectiveness. I don't know how someone from the OEM upgrade path can keep W10 if they ever decide to change the motherboard, the main component that's the base for whatever "internal ID" MS generates. It's BS but like others have said, better than nothing. Keep the fight and get that key. $100+ is worth a call or two :) .. plenty of gas for a month.

Rig's good. Happy camper :)
and result!
I will be happy to assist you with your request for a replacement.

Please be informed that Microsoft Direct Services does not share the same database with Microsoft Store as they are two different departments. Therefore, I am unable to locate your previous order.

However, I can offer you a replacement software disk and product key for the standard shipping and handling charge of £16.82.

If you wish to proceed with an order, please contact us via email or phone using the number provided in the footer of this email for further assistance.
Sort of. Think I'm going to go for it and call it even. Might argue that it puts me in the same boat though and try for a Windows 10 key...

(MDS were who I ended up being sent to from Store CS so lol)
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Given how weak most integrated graphics are, the extra shared memory won't make much of a difference, especially if the PC won't be used for any games.

I'm not sure what prices you're seeing, are they similar to this? The prices below are after rebate but before taxes.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($86.99 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: ASRock B85M-DGS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($54.95 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Team Dark 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($53.69 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($108.39 @ Vuugo)
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($109.88 @ Canada Computers)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $463.89
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-05 14:38 EDT-0400

Thanks. I'm probably going NCIX for the convenience of buying locally and at one location. However that's a much better deal on the Define Mini so I'll make a trip to Canada Computets for that.

I tend to ignore MIRs since they're a pain and rarely come through without hassle.
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks. I'm probably going NCIX for the convenience of buying locally and at one location. However that's a much better deal on the Define Mini so I'll make a trip to Canada Computets for that.

I tend to ignore MIRs since they're a pain and rarely come through without hassle.

If you're getting everything from NCIX, you can get them to pricematch other retailers for the lower price. It'll save you a bit of money and you can get the Define Mini from NCIX.
 

iBeleaf

Member
Didn't see a PC help thread so I'm going to ask here.

I have dell desktop which for the past week when I turned it on there was a couple second delay before the fan and stuff started to run.

Now the computer does not even turn on.

Does this mean I need a new PSU?

Also If it means anything, there is a solid green light at the back of the tower.
 

fred

Member
Rig's good. Happy camper :)
and result!
Sort of. Think I'm going to go for it and call it even. Might argue that it puts me in the same boat though and try for a Windows 10 key...

(MDS were who I ended up being sent to from Store CS so lol)

Just do what I suggested. Get a pirate copy of 7.1, activate it and then go for a free update to Windows 10. It's not legal but you're fully justified in doing it. Give them another $16..? Bollocks to that.




My i7 6700K for my new build will be arriving tomorrow. And now it's going to sit there on my shelf teasing me until I can get the rest of the build next month, the saucy minx lololol

Just wondering if anyone checked that link above that I gave for it..? It was in stock again today.
 

sfried

Member
Do you have a budget in mind? Going with Intel's Skylake would be a good fit for your new PC requirements.
Like I mentioned I was aiming for around $500 to sub-$1000, but considering the expense, I might have to buy it a piece at a time so to speak. I don't see myself assembling this unit so I might ask my local Microcenter for building-it up. (I'm still not confident with the whole thermal paste thing for the CPU)
 

Guri

Member
I might give my current SSD to my father (Samsung 840 Pro 250 GB) since his PC is so slow with his current HDD. If that happens, I'll get a new one, with 500 GB. From what I am looking at AnandTech, the 850 Pro is still better than the Crucial BX100. Should I go for the Samsung one?
 

GnawtyDog

Banned
Thanks. I'm probably going NCIX for the convenience of buying locally and at one location. However that's a much better deal on the Define Mini so I'll make a trip to Canada Computets for that.

I tend to ignore MIRs since they're a pain and rarely come through without hassle.

Go for dual-channel 2x4GB = 8GB if you can. You'll get a tad more performance at an ineligible price difference.

I might give my current SSD to my father (Samsung 840 Pro 250 GB) since his PC is so slow with his current HDD. If that happens, I'll get a new one, with 500 GB. From what I am looking at AnandTech, the 850 Pro is still better than the Crucial BX100. Should I go for the Samsung one?

They're considerably fast enough that I would rather make the decision based on warranty and price between the two. It all depends ultimately on the type of usage. If you're a heavy CAD user, Adobe, video editing etc...perhaps you would want some light improvement in performance.
 

Walpurgis

Banned
My computer is almost here and I just remembered that I don't have an OS. I went on the Windows 10 site but it says that I need Windows 7 or Windows 8.1 on that PC to be able to download Windows 10.

I'm talking about this link here.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Can't I just download it to a USB and install it on my new PC or will it detect the lack of Windows 7/Windows 8.1 and just reject me?
 

Guri

Member
Go for dual-channel 2x4GB = 8GB if you can. You'll get a tad more performance at an ineligible price difference.

They're considerably fast enough that I would rather make the decision based on warranty and price between the two. It all depends ultimately on the type of usage. If you're a heavy CAD user, Adobe, video editing etc...perhaps you would want some light improvement in performance.

I use some of these softwares, so maybe the 850 Pro?

My computer is almost here and I just remembered that I don't have an OS. I went on the Windows 10 site but it says that I need Windows 7 or Windows 8.1 on that PC to be able to download Windows 10.

I'm talking about this link here.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Can't I just download it to a USB and install it on my new PC or will it detect the lack of Windows 7/Windows 8.1 and just reject me?

That's only to upgrade. But that media tool can be used to download it to an USB device.
 
Didn't see a PC help thread so I'm going to ask here.

I have dell desktop which for the past week when I turned it on there was a couple second delay before the fan and stuff started to run.

Now the computer does not even turn on.

Does this mean I need a new PSU?

Also If it means anything, there is a solid green light at the back of the tower.

It could be a bad power supply, however you said there's a greenlight at the back, which means it has some power. Do you smell anything, like an electrical burnt smell? If so, then yeah the PSU likely died but cases like this it's good to have a multi-meter. As a last resort, you could re-seat the ram, cpu, however it does seem like a PSU issue.
 

iBeleaf

Member
It could be a bad power supply, however you said there's a greenlight at the back, which means it has some power. Do you smell anything, like an electrical burnt smell? If so, then yeah the PSU likely died but cases like this it's good to have a multi-meter. As a last resort, you could re-seat the ram, cpu, however it does seem like a PSU issue.

No smell. Friend told me to replace the CMOS battery. Going too give that a shot before I invest in a new PSU.
 
Should I be waiting until the holidays for any potential deals for cpu / gpu's? I want to upgrade my PC but wondering if doing so now is not going to be so smart.
 
Should I be waiting until the holidays for any potential deals for cpu / gpu's? I want to upgrade my PC but wondering if doing so now is not going to be so smart.

PC Hardware very rarely has sales similar to other electronics. They kind of just throw stuff on sale as time goes on. I saw a GTX 970 that was $60 off 2 days ago for literally no reason. It's a really weird system but it works. The best advise I can give you is just keep an eye out. Usually any big sales Newegg does you'll just see a few dollars off certain items with a bunch of decently discounted items, but very rarely will you see something like an i7 marked down noticeably for a special sale.
 

ruttyboy

Member
I might be selling my old PC to my work colleague for her son to use. I have no idea how much to ask for though, any ideas on what I should ask for the below? It's old now, but it's all quality components and is really quiet.

Part Description
CPU: - Intel Core 2 Duo E6600, Socket 775
RAM: - 2Gb Patriot DDR2 PC2-6400 800MHz CL4 Extreme Performance Dual Channel kit
Motherboard: - Asus P5B Deluxe iP965, S775
GFX Card: - 512MB BFG Technology 8800GT OC, PCI
HDD - 150 Gb Western Digital WD1500ADFD R
PSU - 600w Seasonic S12-600 SLi Ready Sil
DVD - NEC ND-5170A-0B Black x18 DVD±RW Du
Case: - Antec P180 Advanced Super Midi Towe
CPU Cooler: - Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro - P4 u
GPU Cooler: - Zalman VF900-CU Quiet Dual Heatpipe
Extra case fan: - 80mm Sharkoon 2000 "Golf Ball" Quie

Also, if she was to update it a little by putting an Nvidia 950 or similar in it, would the CPU choke it too much to make it worthwhile?

All answers gratefully received!
 

GnawtyDog

Banned
I might be selling my old PC to my work colleague for her son to use. I have no idea how much to ask for though, any ideas on what I should ask for the below? It's old now, but it's all quality components and is really quiet.

Part Description
CPU: - Intel Core 2 Duo E6600, Socket 775
RAM: - 2Gb Patriot DDR2 PC2-6400 800MHz CL4 Extreme Performance Dual Channel kit
Motherboard: - Asus P5B Deluxe iP965, S775
GFX Card: - 512MB BFG Technology 8800GT OC, PCI
HDD - 150 Gb Western Digital WD1500ADFD R
PSU - 600w Seasonic S12-600 SLi Ready Sil
DVD - NEC ND-5170A-0B Black x18 DVD±RW Du
Case: - Antec P180 Advanced Super Midi Towe
CPU Cooler: - Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro - P4 u
GPU Cooler: - Zalman VF900-CU Quiet Dual Heatpipe
Extra case fan: - 80mm Sharkoon 2000 "Golf Ball" Quie

Also, if she was to update it a little by putting an Nvidia 950 or similar in it, would the CPU choke it too much to make it worthwhile?

All answers gratefully received!

$150-200. $250 if you can pull it off.

It's not worthwhile no. Should rather invest in some RAM, an SDD and a 750 with the money a 950 would fetch. Hec, get a new motherboard and cpu too, and settle for a cheaper AMD GPU :)....(but yeah they probably don't know how..)
 

ruttyboy

Member
Really that much? I'm looking on ebay and systems with my CPU but with 4GB RAM and DDR3 are going for £50 or less.

Also, why do we keep getting people on here saying that DDR2 RAM is expensive, mine's worth about £10 by the looks.

Thanks for replying though, and yeah it looks like I could get new parts for her as you suggest for about £150 here in the UK, less if I went used.
 

GnawtyDog

Banned
Really that much? I'm looking on ebay and systems with my CPU but with 4GB RAM and DDR3 are going for £50 or less.

Also, why do we keep getting people on here saying that DDR2 RAM is expensive, mine's worth about £10 by the looks.

Thanks for replying though, and yeah it looks like I could get new parts for her as you suggest for about £150 here in the UK, less if I went used.

With a clean job, shiny and beautiful + a nice truthful but intentionally deceptive ad on Craiglist I could do $150 max in the states. Has to be shiny tho...

Since you're dealing with someone known the discretion is on your part on how much to oversell it by. I personally just gift it or undersell it to folks I know.
 

ruttyboy

Member
With a clean job, shiny and beautiful + a nice truthful but intentionally deceptive ad on Craiglist I could do $150 max in the states. Has to be shiny tho...

Since you're dealing with someone known the discretion is on your part on how much to oversell it by. I personally just gift it or undersell it to folks I know.

Ah, well the USB ports on the front are wrecked so I guess shiny isn't an option ;-)
 

GnawtyDog

Banned
I use some of these softwares, so maybe the 850 Pro?

If you want that performance edge sure. If you're in no hurry wait for a deal on it from newegg. Usually a 10-20% discount for a day or two.

It's currently $70 higher than the Crucial BX100. If you don't mind the price then dive in.
 
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