Lactose_Intolerant
Member
DAYUUUUUUUMMMMMMM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FODVbe97z9A (build timelapse) < Very well done
Ultimate gaming rig, uses corsair water cooling
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Ultimate gaming rig, uses corsair water cooling
Only slightly above putting a cheap 600W~ PSU on a $2500~ system with dual 1080s. I swear some of the systems I see posted around run on faith and prayer. Nothing else.
I'm going to be upgrading my CPU, motherboard, ram, and case this week. I am on Windows 10, which was upgraded from a retail copy of Windows 8.1.
In a perfect world, I would like to keep my current Windows install intact and simply move my current hard drives (1 system ssd, 1 gaming ssd and 1 hdd) to the new build, but I suspect it won't be that easy. So two questions, I suppose:
1) Can I simply move the drives over to the new hardware and be up and running without issue?
2) Failing #1, I would likely start with a fresh OS install. Will I run into any issues getting Windows 10 on my system? If so, what steps can I take to avoid them?
Thanks!
In a perfect world, I would like to keep my current Windows install intact and simply move my current hard drives (1 system ssd, 1 gaming ssd and 1 hdd) to the new build, but I suspect it won't be that easy. So two questions, I suppose:
1) Can I simply move the drives over to the new hardware and be up and running without issue?
2) Failing #1, I would likely start with a fresh OS install. Will I run into any issues getting Windows 10 on my system? If so, what steps can I take to avoid them?
Thanks!
LQX
Member
That's a relief. Thanks for confirming.
MrOogieBoogie
BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Any thoughts on this 24" LED monitor for $80 from Best Buy? I think I'd like to jump onto the 1080p bandwagon (I know, I'm way behind). $80 is mighty tempting.
1080p, 60hz, HDMI, for $80 I think it's a good deal.
Thanks, figured as much. Only done +100 atm and its running smooth. (boost is around 1900)
Will have to tweak some more.
It looks very nice but a crappy CLC AIO for the CPU and no liquid cooling for the SLI 1080s at all is meh at that price (and double meh for calling it "ultimate" then).DAYUUUUUUUMMMMMMM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FODVbe97z9A (build timelapse) < Very well done
But I assume it's a client build, so it makes perfect sense to do that to avoid maintenance for a custom loop etc
cebri.one
Member
Any thoughts on this build? Thanks
I'm aiming for 900€ maximum.
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (€196.00 PcComponentes)
Motherboard: Asus H110M-A/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (€69.00 PcComponentes)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (€40.00 PcComponentes)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€49.40 @ PcComponentes)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked Video Card (€429.00 - EVGA EU)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (€74.00 - PcComponentes)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H13 (€58.34 Amazon Spain)
Total: €910.40
Edit: 1070 is around 70€ more expensive, is it worth to spend more given they are some what equal in performance?
I'm aiming for 900€ maximum.
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (€196.00 PcComponentes)
Motherboard: Asus H110M-A/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (€69.00 PcComponentes)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (€40.00 PcComponentes)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€49.40 @ PcComponentes)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked Video Card (€429.00 - EVGA EU)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (€74.00 - PcComponentes)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H13 (€58.34 Amazon Spain)
Total: €910.40
Edit: 1070 is around 70€ more expensive, is it worth to spend more given they are some what equal in performance?
Good afternoon all.
I just about finalized my computer and will send a link when it's all set. There is one thing I am really stuck on and that's the darn CPU Cooler. I picked the CM 212 EVO because that's what everyone does but the thing seems to damn HUGE. I even read that on my chosen motherboard, the Gigabyte GA-Z170xp-sli, it can even get in the way of the RAM. (Although admittedly only one user said that and PC Part Picker didn't say anything about incompatibility, though I don't know if it checks things like that.)
Could someone link me a few options on cpu fans comparable to the 212 EVO but possibly smaller? I'm not totally against the 212 EVO, just wondering what else is out there. I've been looking but it's hard to narrow it down. Are there sites that compare cpu coolers and have prices?
I am not opposed to water cooling, even though I have never done it. I don't know how much I will dabble in Overclocking, but I am getting a Core i7 6700k.
Thanks
I just about finalized my computer and will send a link when it's all set. There is one thing I am really stuck on and that's the darn CPU Cooler. I picked the CM 212 EVO because that's what everyone does but the thing seems to damn HUGE. I even read that on my chosen motherboard, the Gigabyte GA-Z170xp-sli, it can even get in the way of the RAM. (Although admittedly only one user said that and PC Part Picker didn't say anything about incompatibility, though I don't know if it checks things like that.)
Could someone link me a few options on cpu fans comparable to the 212 EVO but possibly smaller? I'm not totally against the 212 EVO, just wondering what else is out there. I've been looking but it's hard to narrow it down. Are there sites that compare cpu coolers and have prices?
I am not opposed to water cooling, even though I have never done it. I don't know how much I will dabble in Overclocking, but I am getting a Core i7 6700k.
Thanks
BIGWORM
Member
DAYUUUUUUUMMMMMMM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FODVbe97z9A (build timelapse) < Very well done
Dat peel at 1:33. GUHHHHH...
So I just used compressed air to clean the dust off the rad of my H80iGT, and now the cpu temp is down 5-10° C, tropical country dust lol :')
Also, I read somewhere that it's better that the hose is oriented down, rad up, I suppose it doesn't really matter?
Mine is up, likewise:
Tried to turn it around, but damn them hose are quite impossible to bend the other way, in the end I just put them back the way they were haha
If you don't mind the price, AIO is pretty clean looking and should be similar to air cooler installing-wise, I picked AIO for similar reason to you, them air cooler is too huge! (and I'm afraid it may somehow strain the motherboard) Also I wanna be able to see my motherboard lol
Also, I read somewhere that it's better that the hose is oriented down, rad up, I suppose it doesn't really matter?
Mine is up, likewise:
Tried to turn it around, but damn them hose are quite impossible to bend the other way, in the end I just put them back the way they were haha
If you don't mind the price, AIO is pretty clean looking and should be similar to air cooler installing-wise, I picked AIO for similar reason to you, them air cooler is too huge! (and I'm afraid it may somehow strain the motherboard) Also I wanna be able to see my motherboard lol
illiniguy05
Member
So I threw my old SSD with Win7 into my new rig. AMAZINGLY the thing booted to desktop, and I clicked through to the system manager and verified my windows install.
I noticed the system manager said I had driver issues, so I went to Gigabytes website for drivers to the z170xp-sli motherboard that I was using. I installed the Intel USB 3.0 drivers there.
The install progressed, and at the final step (With "Finish" being shown) my keyboard and mouse lost connection to the PC.
I restarted a couple times and my keyboard and mouse are not recognized once windows boots. They are recognized if I enter BIOS settings during boot.
I want to create a windows 7 repair disc, but the guides tell me to use my Win 7 PC, and I'm typing this from a Win 10 laptop. Can I create a Win 7 USB to repair my install? I am planning to do the free upgrade to Win 10 with this PC, can I simply d/l a Windows 10 install to USB and activate Win 10 after installing on the new PC?
I noticed the system manager said I had driver issues, so I went to Gigabytes website for drivers to the z170xp-sli motherboard that I was using. I installed the Intel USB 3.0 drivers there.
The install progressed, and at the final step (With "Finish" being shown) my keyboard and mouse lost connection to the PC.
I restarted a couple times and my keyboard and mouse are not recognized once windows boots. They are recognized if I enter BIOS settings during boot.
I want to create a windows 7 repair disc, but the guides tell me to use my Win 7 PC, and I'm typing this from a Win 10 laptop. Can I create a Win 7 USB to repair my install? I am planning to do the free upgrade to Win 10 with this PC, can I simply d/l a Windows 10 install to USB and activate Win 10 after installing on the new PC?
Yautja_Warrior
Member
Quick update, got most of my components now, so started my build, doesn't look too bad if I do say so myself.
Just got my AiO cooler to install but might do that tomorrow now, as I've been at work all day and I need to chill for a while now.
Just got my AiO cooler to install but might do that tomorrow now, as I've been at work all day and I need to chill for a while now.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Have you tried using some different USB ports? Perhaps some USB2 ones if available. That might at least get your mouse and keyboard working, and you could try uninstalling and reinstalling the USB3 driver to see if that works.
illiniguy05
Member
I tried all the USB ports, no connectivity for my mouse or keyboard.
opticalmace
Member
Re: the bolded, I'm pretty sure you can. I did with an 8.1 key. Google to check but that is what I would probably do.
Ok I am quite sure that I have reached stable 4.4GHz at 1.250v on my 6600k. I ran Realbench for 8 hours and the temps didn't rise above max 73 celcius.
I can probably push that quite a bit more, but the stress testing is annoying. Would higher clock rate help much when playing at 1080p resolution?
I can probably push that quite a bit more, but the stress testing is annoying. Would higher clock rate help much when playing at 1080p resolution?
opticalmace
Member
Not really. What GPU?
EVGA GTX 1070 SC. Haven't overclocked that yet myself.
What scenario do you feel bottlenecked with a 4690k?
me0wish
Member
Any opinions on LG 27UD68P-B? The price on mass drop is pretty good and the shipping to where I live is cheap. I really want to get an ultrawide screen though, but I'm waiting for OLED/higher resolution ones to come out eventually so the ridiculous shipping price will be worth paying.
My knowledge about monitors is fairly limited, and any suggestion is welcomed
https://www.kickstarter.com/project...-the-worlds-smallest-gaming-tower/description
This is what I'm planning to get, even planning to mod it with a handle like a Gamecube.
My knowledge about monitors is fairly limited, and any suggestion is welcomed
No one?
https://www.kickstarter.com/project...-the-worlds-smallest-gaming-tower/description
This is what I'm planning to get, even planning to mod it with a handle like a Gamecube.
Vigilant Walrus
Member
Why are the Corsair AIOs crappy?
I have a Noctua DH15 and I really, really like it. It's so silent, but it's also gigantious. I thought maybe if I got a H115 I would get better results?
Well not "crappy" but I did quite a bit of research a while ago on that matter since I was interested in buying a CLC AIO as well, mostly for the looks.
In short, these CLC AIOs are more expensive than high end air coolers, can be seen as throwaway products (cooling performance will degrade over time due to coolant evaporating and can't be refilled due to the closed nature of the loop) and don't really offer any temp benefits under load -- in fact, a bunch of "professional" and user reviews (on OCnet iirc) even reported noticeably better temps under air at the same fan speeds. You also have the pump as an additional noise source.
Another interesting thing I learned is that not all AIOs are created equal -- there are AIO watercooling solutions that you can install right away much like the Corsair AIOs but will allow you to add components, rads and pumps later if you want to expand. Also, you can refill and thus customise looks, maintain cooling performance etc. (Examples from top off my head are the Swiftech H-series and EKWB Predator). These are more expensive than CLC AIOs but offer better cooling performance than even the best air coolers in return.
Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but the general gist of my research was to either go with a full custom loop or at least open loop AIO (Swiftech/EKWB Predator...) but use a highend air cooler for your CPU instead of CLC AIO as long as your case allows for it.
In the end I just decided to stick with my NH-D14 for the time being (since it's amazingly quiet during idle with my current fan setup anyway) and go with a full custom loop for my next build (aka MB/CPU/RAM upgrade).
I wouldn't be swapping a D15 for a AIO loop. Simply because the pump noise is louder. Plus air coolers rarely fail. The H80i I had failed in 3 months.
So I'm planning to put a radiator in the top in a Fractal Define R5, looking at some specs on the web, it does support a 280mm wide radiator, but the actual dimensions of the radiator is 312mm. Now I'm wondering if it can still support that, or if I'm gonna have to move the ODD cages.
Anyone know?
Anyone know?
Vigilant Walrus
Member
I feel really uncomfortable going full custom Watercool. Hell, I think AIO is radical. I just can't get myself to take that step. If I fuck up the pump, or bend a tubing or any of that shit. And that's a mistake I'd might make. Assembling a computer- Not many ways to fuck that up, but you can screw up a PC relatively quickly once you add liquid.
My other thing, I really would like something that maintains itself well. Something that doesn't require upkeep.
My NH-D15 has been wonderful. I have no complaints besides the fact that its really big, and the heatsink blocks the internals, the fans are that ugly baby poo beige brown, and my ram is too tall for allowing the second fan to be a push-pull on the heatsink. Though, I've heard some say that D14 and D15 don't benefit in temperatures of 2 fans instead of 1.
If I really am going to build in the Enthoo ATX Tempered Glass, I know I want something were the heatsink doesn't block everything. Your right. I also want the AIO cooler thing because it's so neat. The colored rings on these Corsair fans are really nice and the radiator is small. Can see the entire motherboard, the radiator doesn't have an ugly ass logo with a big Monster energydrink type font that just ruins the aesthetics. Shit is brutal with all these annoying logos and product placements on parts!!
My DH-14, my 3 140mm intake and 1x 140mm exhaust, all have low noise adapters and even under load its not loud. I used Asus 5-way-optimization to auto-overclock it to 4.6 GHz and set max temp to 80 degrees.
What does a AIO pump loop sound like? Is it some click? can you put now noise adapters? or is it the radiator itself that makes noise? Would it help to use a radiator with fans on both sides (4 fans) in push pull? so you sort of forcibly push through more air, but at a lower RPM?
Yappadappadu
Member
Think I'll hold off from buying a Skylake CPU and wait for Kaby Lake. I really want the improved HEVC functions of the CPU and native USB 3.1.
Coupling my old i5 750 CPU (overclocked to abt. 3.5 Mhz) with a GTX 1070, I should still be able to hit 1080p/60 fps on most games, right?
Coupling my old i5 750 CPU (overclocked to abt. 3.5 Mhz) with a GTX 1070, I should still be able to hit 1080p/60 fps on most games, right?
illiniguy05
Member
Promising update: I was able to boot into the safe mode menu, and "last safe boot" worked. If I attempted to update the usb drivers I lost connectivity again, so now I'll just upgrade to win10.
I would go for the 1070, 2 more gb of VRAM it's going to only get better from here in terms of driver support.
This might be a long shot, it's in Euros, the 1070 isn't showing a price and I have no idea how much they cost over there. So here ya go. Try and start here:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (246.59 @ Mindfactory)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9i 57.5 CFM CPU Cooler (39.71 @ Aquatuning)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (133.01 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (84.91 @ Mindfactory)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (146.87 @ Mindfactory)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (135.42 @ Mindfactory)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Mini ITX OC Video Card
Case: Silverstone Sugo SG13B-Q Mini ITX Tower Case (48.49 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: XFX XTR 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (98.08 @ Mindfactory)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-900 49.3 CFM 140mm Fan (15.89 @ Aquatuning)
Total: 948.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-24 01:14 CEST+0200
Depends on your climate. If you live on the west coast, ok, you probably don't need it. Southeast? yeah, probaboly not. California/Nevada/Colorado desert? Yes, you should. Alaska, especially in winter? Yes, you should.
I moved from an AMD Phenom II X6 to Skylake and Z150 mobo. Sized down to mini-ITX, at the same time.
HIS Radeon HD 7870 Ghz Edition
Skylake i3 6100
16GB (2x8) Team Group "Vulcan" DDR4 3000. 15-15-15-35 @ 1T
480Gb Adata SP550 SSD
Gigabyte GA-Z170N-Gaming 5 mini-ITX mobo
Antec Neo HE 650 power supply
3tb Toshiba external, for games and files which don't need the SSD speed. Really convenient for moving older games in my steam and GOG library, between my laptop and desktop.
Ok, are you guys ready for way too many, awful, low light smartphone pics? yeahaaahhhhh!
DIYPC HTPC-Cube-BK (a rebranded Raijintek Metis)
This is an Antec Neo HE 650. Its about 11 years old. As you can see, it has a backside exhaust fan. Rather than the large, bottom mounted intake fans, which most newer power supplies. Its no matter, this thing is dead quiet. This case has it exhausting out the bottom. Actually, I think this PSU fan setup, is ideal, for this case.
You can also see that I put mesh over the grommet holes for the storage drive mounts. As you will see, my CPU fan intakes, there.
some attractive masking tape ligning. helps lower the side panel noise from a 'smack', to more of a 'thud'. I will probably get some damping material, eventually. This isn't a loud case, when running. But the aluminum can be loud, when handling it.
The rear fan is intake. Reviewers noted improved cooling with intake, rather than exhaust.
full size cables means you gotta do what you can.
Here is a little glimpse at those mounting holes, now being used as added intake. Hyper 212 plus. Noiseblock NB-eLoop B12-2, on the heatsink. B12-1, as the intake fan. I haven't seen the CPU go over 51c, in games. Usually averages in the mid 40's. Skylake i3 6100
I originally got this power supply for an X-Qpack MATX build, because it is a little less in length, than some others. It payed off for this build, 11 years later. The 7870 GPU clears it by about 10mm. It has reinforcement along the length of the card, so it will never flex and touch the power supply. phew!
Oh, whats that by the GPU?
Its two Gelid 50mm fans, as exhaust! (intake was dramatically worse). You can also see the annoying hack job mod I had to make. Below the HDMI port, was a metal shelf/tab, which prevented the HDMI cable from seating the full depth of the port. No video signal. So I borrowed a generic dremel and ground the tab away. Not pretty. But now I can connect to my plasma.
I never put on I/O shields. Helps with ventilation. I mean, the VRM heatsink is RIGHT THERE!
The other side.
another peek at those gelids.
This is a HIS 7870 Ghz edition. it used to have a HIS designed blower/exhaust shroud on it. But the turbine fan was not sufficient. I had two 80mm fans strapped to it, when it was in a mid tower. Here, I had to get Noctua's 14mm thick, 92mm fan. Works well. Those gelids are connected to the "low noise adapter" which came with the noctua. They work well, in this setup. The 7870 equalizes at about 75c, when playing something like Metal Gear Solid 5 or looping a benchmark.
here, you can see the end of the GPU. It covers all of the modual ports on the PSU, except for one. Which was just enough for me, as I just use one internal drive and an USB3 external.
The USB 3 header on this board, is in a dumb spot. Its why I ended up with this upward pushing orientation, for the CPU.
aww yeah.
HIS Radeon HD 7870 Ghz Edition
Skylake i3 6100
16GB (2x8) Team Group "Vulcan" DDR4 3000. 15-15-15-35 @ 1T
480Gb Adata SP550 SSD
Gigabyte GA-Z170N-Gaming 5 mini-ITX mobo
Antec Neo HE 650 power supply
3tb Toshiba external, for games and files which don't need the SSD speed. Really convenient for moving older games in my steam and GOG library, between my laptop and desktop.
Ok, are you guys ready for way too many, awful, low light smartphone pics? yeahaaahhhhh!
DIYPC HTPC-Cube-BK (a rebranded Raijintek Metis)
This is an Antec Neo HE 650. Its about 11 years old. As you can see, it has a backside exhaust fan. Rather than the large, bottom mounted intake fans, which most newer power supplies. Its no matter, this thing is dead quiet. This case has it exhausting out the bottom. Actually, I think this PSU fan setup, is ideal, for this case.
You can also see that I put mesh over the grommet holes for the storage drive mounts. As you will see, my CPU fan intakes, there.
some attractive masking tape ligning. helps lower the side panel noise from a 'smack', to more of a 'thud'. I will probably get some damping material, eventually. This isn't a loud case, when running. But the aluminum can be loud, when handling it.
The rear fan is intake. Reviewers noted improved cooling with intake, rather than exhaust.
full size cables means you gotta do what you can.
Here is a little glimpse at those mounting holes, now being used as added intake. Hyper 212 plus. Noiseblock NB-eLoop B12-2, on the heatsink. B12-1, as the intake fan. I haven't seen the CPU go over 51c, in games. Usually averages in the mid 40's. Skylake i3 6100
I originally got this power supply for an X-Qpack MATX build, because it is a little less in length, than some others. It payed off for this build, 11 years later. The 7870 GPU clears it by about 10mm. It has reinforcement along the length of the card, so it will never flex and touch the power supply. phew!
Oh, whats that by the GPU?
Its two Gelid 50mm fans, as exhaust! (intake was dramatically worse). You can also see the annoying hack job mod I had to make. Below the HDMI port, was a metal shelf/tab, which prevented the HDMI cable from seating the full depth of the port. No video signal. So I borrowed a generic dremel and ground the tab away. Not pretty. But now I can connect to my plasma.
I never put on I/O shields. Helps with ventilation. I mean, the VRM heatsink is RIGHT THERE!
The other side.
another peek at those gelids.
This is a HIS 7870 Ghz edition. it used to have a HIS designed blower/exhaust shroud on it. But the turbine fan was not sufficient. I had two 80mm fans strapped to it, when it was in a mid tower. Here, I had to get Noctua's 14mm thick, 92mm fan. Works well. Those gelids are connected to the "low noise adapter" which came with the noctua. They work well, in this setup. The 7870 equalizes at about 75c, when playing something like Metal Gear Solid 5 or looping a benchmark.
here, you can see the end of the GPU. It covers all of the modual ports on the PSU, except for one. Which was just enough for me, as I just use one internal drive and an USB3 external.
The USB 3 header on this board, is in a dumb spot. Its why I ended up with this upward pushing orientation, for the CPU.
aww yeah.
SomedayTheFire
Member
Basically pulled apart my computer and rebuilt it today. Was so much fun. Had a scare with the PC turning in but sending no signal to my monitor. Got it fixed eventually
Lactose_Intolerant
Member
As long as it works well, I don't care what it looks like inside.
Dick Justice
Banned
Was recently doing some overclocking/voltage testing on my CPU (6700K @4.4GHz). With adaptive voltage enabled, at 1.22v set in the BIOS, I got a BSOD after signing into Windows 7. At 1.23v, I noticed that programs failed to open, and stuff like Microsoft Security Essentials warned me about not running. Seems stable at 1.235v. Does setting the voltage too low cause any damage, or is it just a crash that avoids anything serious?
Dick Justice
Banned
Do these results in HWMonitor seem fine? This is just after running WPrime (1024 test, 8 threads). Voltage in BIOS set to 1.24 (1.235 resulted in BSOD towards the end of the Prime test), motherboard is a Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI.
Thanks! One last question: I saw someone mention earlier in this thread that this motherboard is on sale via Newegg. Will I see a significant change in performance between that one and the selected MSI one?
pizzapizza64
Member
Need a PC for editing 5-20 minute short films. Wouldn't mind being able to play games on it (but that's a lower priority). Have: $700-1000
Already have a monitor. Would prefer to buy an off the shelf machine. Am cool with building it myself though
Already have a monitor. Would prefer to buy an off the shelf machine. Am cool with building it myself though
Vigilant Walrus
Member
What sort of editing? 4K? Depending on what you want to do, it would depend a lot on your needs. Do you have a storage solution for your media?
I have a gigabyte and they make great boards so go for that. Unless you NEED another m.2 slot you aren't giving up anything (and you don't need two).
pizzapizza64
Member
Editing 5-20 minute shorts at 1080p resolution.
I'd want the computer to have a 1TB or larger harddrive.
So I just used compressed air to clean the dust off the rad of my H80iGT, and now the cpu temp is down 5-10° C, tropical country dust lol :')
Also, I read somewhere that it's better that the hose is oriented down, rad up, I suppose it doesn't really matter?
Mine is up, likewise:
Tried to turn it around, but damn them hose are quite impossible to bend the other way, in the end I just put them back the way they were haha
If you don't mind the price, AIO is pretty clean looking and should be similar to air cooler installing-wise, I picked AIO for similar reason to you, them air cooler is too huge! (and I'm afraid it may somehow strain the motherboard) Also I wanna be able to see my motherboard lol
Thanks. What is an AIO? Can you link me to one?
I don't need an m.2 beyond booting up the system so i'll go with this, thanks!
I noticed and I appreciate that. Cheers!
Mad Season
Banned
Any good guides for over clocking a 6700k?
Just for clarity I DID pick an M.2 SSD in the build profile. If you don't want it, no big deal. Just making sure you saw.
Good deal. No problem.
See if this works for you. Add another $250 for a Rx480 or 1060 when they come back in stock. I ran off the integrated graphics on the i5 for a few months and it was definitely tolerable editing and exporting in 1080p. If you want to save a few $$ drop to 8gb of RAM and a cheaper case. I would keep the S340 though because it's excellent. You definitely need at least 2tb of HHD space cus 1tb will fill up quick, especially if you're editing 20 min vids. And I would recommend a backup solution for your videos, another 2tb drive at least. Use the HDD as a scratch and project disk, then move to the HDD once it's complete.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($100.66 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($66.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($90.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($66.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.95 @ Directron)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($70.00 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: NZXT RF-FN142-RB 50.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($8.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case Fan: NZXT RF-FN142-RB 50.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($8.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $743.44
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-23 21:59 EDT-0400
$743.44 + $250 for GPU = <$1000
Vigilant Walrus
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