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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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wowzors

Member
Thanks for your response mate!

I just set the LLC in the BIOS to Level 5. Not sure what the logic is behind though, so went for a middle ground, with ASUS it has Level 1 to Level 7 (with Level 7 being the biggest reduction in current?).

I've just changed my VCore to 1.29V and as a result I'm seeing temps of 26-32 on idle. Should I be happy? lol :(

I should note that I went the 1.29V route because I had seen others online get the 4.4GHz around that same voltage, or less even! So things seem stable atm, I'm gonna run a long stress test on Sat and hopefully it all goes well.

Only thing is I would like lower temps. On idle it's 26-32, browsing net may jump it to 40, and stress tests have it sitting at average 62-63C.

26-32 idle is pretty good I don't see an issue here, I mean 78 Fahrenheit is pretty cold my place is set to 74 so if your computer is running within 10 degrees of ambient temperatures that's phenomenal.
 

Bloodember

Member
I feel like something is wrong here, particularly with temps. Ambient temp right now is about 25, so there's no way I should be getting temps like this. Also a friends of mine was asking me about other motherboard temperatures last night that should be listed, but all I have is TMPIN0, TPMIN1, and TMPIN2. Does anyone find this a tad suspect?

Motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI.

ZIdvNPn.png
Yeah, those don't look right at all. Try a different program.
 

Ptaaty

Member
Generally the answer is more a "No", but in select newer titles the 2600K does pull ahead of the 2500K somewhat. Blood & Wine is a solid example:

w3_proz.jpg


If you're contemplating an upgrade, I'd strongly recommend going with at least a 4c/8t CPU (e.g. the 6700K) as games are only going to get more multi-threaded going forward.

http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/d...it-finally-time-to-upgrade-your-core-i5-2500k

This has been posted before - but a good reference for various scenarios. In particular the two performance comparison matrices hit on impact of RAM speed, OC, threads and the newer architecture.
 
I feel like something is wrong here, particularly with temps. Ambient temp right now is about 25, so there's no way I should be getting temps like this. Also a friends of mine was asking me about other motherboard temperatures last night that should be listed, but all I have is TMPIN0, TPMIN1, and TMPIN2. Does anyone find this a tad suspect?

Motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI.

ZIdvNPn.png

Your CPU temperatures are Core #0 through Core #3... and they're fine.
 

Trigg

Banned
Thanks for your response mate!

I just set the LLC in the BIOS to Level 5. Not sure what the logic is behind though, so went for a middle ground, with ASUS it has Level 1 to Level 7 (with Level 7 being the biggest reduction in current?).

I've just changed my VCore to 1.29V and as a result I'm seeing temps of 26-32 on idle. Should I be happy? lol :(

I should note that I went the 1.29V route because I had seen others online get the 4.4GHz around that same voltage, or less even! So things seem stable atm, I'm gonna run a long stress test on Sat and hopefully it all goes well.

Only thing is I would like lower temps. On idle it's 26-32, browsing net may jump it to 40, and stress tests have it sitting at average 62-63C.

Everything looks good, those stress temps are also really good.

Your temps won't get much lower unless you use a super custom loop. There is nothing wrong with your temps.
 

Trigg

Banned
I feel like something is wrong here, particularly with temps. Ambient temp right now is about 25, so there's no way I should be getting temps like this. Also a friends of mine was asking me about other motherboard temperatures last night that should be listed, but all I have is TMPIN0, TPMIN1, and TMPIN2. Does anyone find this a tad suspect?

Motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI.

Try Hwinfo and see if you get the same readings. Your sensors may be broke.

http://www.hwinfo.com/

Honestly I see nothing wrong with your temps.
 
I feel like something is wrong here, particularly with temps. Ambient temp right now is about 25, so there's no way I should be getting temps like this. Also a friends of mine was asking me about other motherboard temperatures last night that should be listed, but all I have is TMPIN0, TPMIN1, and TMPIN2. Does anyone find this a tad suspect?

Motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI.

ZIdvNPn.png

I have the same motherboard and RAM, I'll post my HWinfo stats in a bit so you can compare.
 

Adamator

Member
Here are my temps after running my CPU on Prime95 for about an hour. I have the 6700k overclocked to 4.4 Ghz.

qFQYE2Mm.jpg



Side question. I have the GB Ga-Z170XP-SLI motherboard and whenever I reboot to enter bios, if I mash the DEL key too fast, the computer freezes and wont enter the BIOS or do anything.

I have Fast Boot on if it matters.
 
Here are my temps after running my CPU on Prime95 for about an hour. I have the 6700k overclocked to 4.4 Ghz.

qFQYE2Mm.jpg



Side question. I have the GB Ga-Z170XP-SLI motherboard and whenever I reboot to enter bios, if I mash the DEL key too fast, the computer freezes and wont enter the BIOS or do anything.

I have Fast Boot on if it matters.

Temps aren't that bad tbh, IIRC prime95 with skylake can run some instructions (AVX) that can shoot temps up a fair bit. What vcore do you see in cpu-z?

Re: the del key, does turning off fast boot change anything? There's no need to mash del anyway, just hit it a time or two when you see the splash screen.
 

Resilient

Member
Everything looks good, those stress temps are also really good.

Your temps won't get much lower unless you use a super custom loop. There is nothing wrong with your temps.

26-32 idle is pretty good I don't see an issue here, I mean 78 Fahrenheit is pretty cold my place is set to 74 so if your computer is running within 10 degrees of ambient temperatures that's phenomenal.

Thank you heaps guys, and thanks to others who have helped. Now to just monitor over the next few days and see how it goes. I might push for 4.5-4.6GHz in a year or so but for now 4.4GHz does the job.
 

Adamator

Member
Temps aren't that bad tbh, IIRC prime95 with skylake can run some instructions (AVX) that can shoot temps up a fair bit. What vcore do you see in cpu-z?

Re: the del key, does turning off fast boot change anything? There's no need to mash del anyway, just hit it a time or two when you see the splash screen.

I dont see vcore in CPU-Z so I assume you mean Core voltage and it's at 1.248 v when I have prime going.
 

JaseC

gave away the keys to the kingdom.
Here are my temps after running my CPU on Prime95 for about an hour. I have the 6700k overclocked to 4.4 Ghz.

qFQYE2Mm.jpg



Side question. I have the GB Ga-Z170XP-SLI motherboard and whenever I reboot to enter bios, if I mash the DEL key too fast, the computer freezes and wont enter the BIOS or do anything.

I have Fast Boot on if it matters.

Newer versions of Prime95 are unreliable as they also stress test AVX on the FPU co-processor, which you're unlikely ever going to see in real-world usage. Use version 26.6 instead.
 

Iced

Member
Question for Kraken x61 owners:

My Kraken makes a rattling noise when set to silent mode. Only once I get my fans up to about 55% does the sound go away, but I find the fan noise to be too loud. I have read the reason for the noise is that the pump is running too low. Is there any way to control the pump RPM separate from the fan speed, even if it's outside of the CAM software?

How I have everything setup right now is exactly how NZXT instructs: pump plugged into CPU_FAN header, and my two fans attached to fan power cable. Also, in bios I have CPU Fan set to "full" (I'm on a Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI).
 

NOKYARD

Member
I want a gaming mouse, the question is, should I go wired or cordless?

I currently use a Logitech cordless with the little receiver thing you plug into your USB, however it's very dodgy and only works when the USB reciever isn't plugged in all the way down, so I have to insert it a little. It still plays up every now and then.


I don't want a Logitech mouse that has a reciever. Are there other branded mice that are wireless, or pick up a wired one?

This isn't exactly an answer to your question, but to get your Logitec cordless working properly until you upgrade simply plug the dongle into a USB extension cord and move it closer to your mouse. It's usually nearby RF interference which causes the Logitecs to go wonky.
 

knitoe

Member
Interesting. Yours all seem to be within 5 degrees of each other. I'm guessing you're using an air cooler?

My temps are unreasonably low, in my opinion, and wildly spaced out. It's my understanding that CPU temps cannot be lower than ambient temps, and it's definitely hot in this room.

Yeah, if your CPU temps are lower than your room ambient temps, something is wrong. As others have already mention, try a different monitoring software, HWinfo is good.
 
Interesting. Yours all seem to be within 5 degrees of each other. I'm guessing you're using an air cooler?

My temps are unreasonably low, in my opinion, and wildly spaced out. It's my understanding that CPU temps cannot be lower than ambient temps, and it's definitely hot in this room.

Yeah, using the Coolermaster Hyper Evo 212, 2 intake and 2 outtake fans (all 120mm) in a NZXT S340. I think the room was around 80 Fahrenheit when I took those screenshots.
 

Iced

Member
Yeah, if your CPU temps are lower than your room ambient temps, something is wrong. As others have already mention, try a different monitoring software, HWinfo is good.

I gave HWinfo a shot, and got the same results.

NEW PROBLEM: I made the mistake of activating fast boot in bios, and now I can't get back into bios since the keyboard isn't detected. Short of clearing the cmos, is there any way I can boot into bios from Windows? Maybe a program or something? I've seen guides showing an option in recovering to boot to UEFI, but that option is missing for me for some reason.

Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI motherboard.

Edit: Disregard. I just ended up re-flashing the firmware for the bios.
 

Bloodember

Member
Question for Kraken x61 owners:

My Kraken makes a rattling noise when set to silent mode. Only once I get my fans up to about 55% does the sound go away, but I find the fan noise to be too loud. I have read the reason for the noise is that the pump is running too low. Is there any way to control the pump RPM separate from the fan speed, even if it's outside of the CAM software?

How I have everything setup right now is exactly how NZXT instructs: pump plugged into CPU_FAN header, and my two fans attached to fan power cable. Also, in bios I have CPU Fan set to "full" (I'm on a Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI).

Here are my temps, I use the Kraken X61. This is in Silent mode through CAM using stock fans. I have the radiator in the top of my case with the fans in exhaust configuration. My case is the NZXT Manta. I have no rattling noise.


Here it is through CAM.
 
PC GAF, some questions.

My HTPC System is running on a AMD 780G mainboard, Athlon II X4 640 CPU in a slim mATX horizontal case. I'm not very happy with the thermals and acoustics. I'm considering moving to a regular ATX horizontal case, so I need some advice on the following:

1. Cheap horizontal mATX case that will accept full size VGA cards
2. Would replacing my current CPU and IGP with an AM1/FM1-2 APU help with temperatures, acoustics and cooling? If so, is the Athlon 5350 still the goto CPU for HTPC builds, or am I better with something from the A lineup?
3. This switch (2) would require replacing my DDR2 with DDR3.. Would it really be worth it?

On a completely unrelated note,

4. I need a cheap but decent (emphasis on decent, I don't need a solid, great, wonderful, awesome, brilliant) PSU to power my overclocked FX + RX 480 system. Recommendations would be great.
 
Ahh need help. Just installed a new secondary 2tb hard drive to replace the broken one. When I boot up the computer is making this very weird beeping noise and if I go to bios (it won't let me) on some black screen it says auto detect drives. It recognises my main drive but not the new one?

Edit I've just uploaded a short video of the issue, watch til the end.

https://vid.me/ArjT

Through some trial and error I disconnected the did dvd drive to and when he new hdd is connected the computer will not detect any hdd even the one with the os on that works fine.
 

TheJoRu

Member
Just bought a Gainward GTX 1060 (which is basically the same as Palit, from what I've gathered). Though it doesn't seem to be regarded as one of the top-tier GPU brands it has gotten some good reviews for its quiet, cool operation which was good news for me, so am excited to get it into my system.
 
Really contemplating about replacing my GTX 980 with the 1070. Just wanted to hear from guys if that's a wise move to make. I have a 1080p monitor but thinking of getting a 1440p in the near future.
 

leng jai

Member
I know it's always a bad time to upgrade but all things considered, what's the timing like right now for building an entire new system? Bought a 1070 and looking to turf my 5 year old 2500k setup.
 

OneUh8

Member
I know it's always a bad time to upgrade but all things considered, what's the timing like right now for building an entire new system? Bought a 1070 and looking to turf my 5 year old 2500k setup.

It is actually a great time to upgrade. You can find great deals these days on Skylake builds. Seeing 6600k's going for sub $200 often.
 

ehead

Member
Hello pcgaf. I did it. I bought pc parts today. Its not the complete set yet since the case and PSU are not available. I've been an expat for the past 2 years and I've always had the struggle of building my own rig - mainly because of stupidly jacked up prices and unavailable parts. However, today when I visited the local pc parts shop, I saw the last Asus Z170I motherboard and felt it is time. So I got myself:

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive

I will try to secure the case by weekend and see if I can also get the PSU by then looking at Corsair RM550X. I know that ITX builds recommend liquid cooling but I thought this might work for now. Also, they didn't have m.2 ssd's yet which I thought was disappointing. I am saving up for a 1070 and hoping that when I get my salary I can get the Strix. Oh boy, do I feel good about my purchases. I'm hoping there will be no problems during assembly.

uYud05El.jpg

Sorry for the shitty pic. :D
 
I know it's always a bad time to upgrade but all things considered, what's the timing like right now for building an entire new system? Bought a 1070 and looking to turf my 5 year old 2500k setup.

Just do it if you feel the need to upgrade. The 2500k is still a decent CPU but its definitely starting to show its age, a little bit now. There's always something new just around the corner, so you will be waiting forever if you get into the waiting mind set. I just sacked my 2500k and went to Skylake (i7 6700k) and should be good for a long time now.

Its not like a 6600k / 6700k or maybe a 5820k (if you want 6 cores) will only last 1 or 2 years before needing another upgrade, Skylake is plenty fast enough to last 4-5 years at least and would go great with a GTX 1070.
 

enewtabie

Member
Hello pcgaf. I did it. I bought pc parts today. Its not the complete set yet since the case and PSU are not available. I've been an expat for the past 2 years and I've always had the struggle of building my own rig - mainly because of stupidly jacked up prices and unavailable parts. However, today when I visited the local pc parts shop, I saw the last Asus Z170I motherboard and felt it is time. So I got myself:

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive

I will try to secure the case by weekend and see if I can also get the PSU by then looking at Corsair RM550X. I know that ITX builds recommend liquid cooling but I thought this might work for now. Also, they didn't have m.2 ssd's yet which I thought was disappointing. I am saving up for a 1070 and hoping that when I get my salary I can get the Strix. Oh boy, do I feel good about my purchases. I'm hoping there will be no problems during assembly.

uYud05El.jpg

Sorry for the shitty pic. :D

Nice assortment.Very similar to mine. I saw that board on an assembly video on youtube.
 
Razer Naga Chroma, or Corsair Scimitar RGB?


I have huge hands, and tend to claw grip my mice.
I have a Scimitar RGB. It's a bit big for me as I have small hands but its comfortable. I would just try to find either of them in person, open up the front flap, and put your hand on it just to get a feel.

I've never used a Naga before so I have no idea how big or small it is compared to the Scimitar. My last mouse was a G600 and the Scimitar feels a tiny bit smaller than it.
 
This is unbelievably frustrating. I still can't get the computer to boot into my SSD without it saying
"Reboot and Select proper Boot device"

I've tried everything. I switched it so that it was the top of the bootloader. I unplugged everything and made it so that the SSD was the only thing plugged in. I even got a spare drive, installed Windows on it to see if it was my Mobo, but somehow that new drive can boot up into Windows and can see my other drive and all the files on it.

I really dont know what to do. It's stupid shit like this that makes me annoyed at both building a PC and also Apple for making that stupid trashcan Mac Pro. I can't even add a harddrive to my computer without it breaking.
 

OneUh8

Member
Hello pcgaf. I did it. I bought pc parts today. Its not the complete set yet since the case and PSU are not available. I've been an expat for the past 2 years and I've always had the struggle of building my own rig - mainly because of stupidly jacked up prices and unavailable parts. However, today when I visited the local pc parts shop, I saw the last Asus Z170I motherboard and felt it is time. So I got myself:

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive

I will try to secure the case by weekend and see if I can also get the PSU by then looking at Corsair RM550X. I know that ITX builds recommend liquid cooling but I thought this might work for now. Also, they didn't have m.2 ssd's yet which I thought was disappointing. I am saving up for a 1070 and hoping that when I get my salary I can get the Strix. Oh boy, do I feel good about my purchases. I'm hoping there will be no problems during assembly.

uYud05El.jpg

Sorry for the shitty pic. :D

Never heard of ITX and liquid cooling going together really. ITX cases are super small and not much room for much other than a low profile air cooler. Unless you are putting that small motherboard in a large case, which kinda defeats the purpose of getting an ITX motherboard.

So before you go out and buy a case, what is the reason you went ITX?
 

Adamator

Member
I figure I should post a pic of my new rig. Wanted to
Thank Everyone who helped me over the past couple weeks. Still have a ton of programs to install. I've been tweaking the system so much and not actually using my computer. Hope to sit down with it and actually do something productive.

This is my first computer with parts that light up and they give you control over it. Guess that's what happens when you spend nearly $500 on a single item!

nLT3cXn.jpg



Edit: this was my final parts list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/WtCHBP
 

theRizzle

Member
Hello pcgaf. I did it. I bought pc parts today. Its not the complete set yet since the case and PSU are not available. I've been an expat for the past 2 years and I've always had the struggle of building my own rig - mainly because of stupidly jacked up prices and unavailable parts. However, today when I visited the local pc parts shop, I saw the last Asus Z170I motherboard and felt it is time. So I got myself:

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive

I will try to secure the case by weekend and see if I can also get the PSU by then looking at Corsair RM550X. I know that ITX builds recommend liquid cooling but I thought this might work for now. Also, they didn't have m.2 ssd's yet which I thought was disappointing. I am saving up for a 1070 and hoping that when I get my salary I can get the Strix. Oh boy, do I feel good about my purchases. I'm hoping there will be no problems during assembly.

uYud05El.jpg

Sorry for the shitty pic. :D

ITX boards only recommend liquid cooling because the CPU heatsink on liquid cooling setups are usually small/low profile which will allow them to fit in a smaller case. Make damn sure the case you are getting will support the liquid cooling radiator size. If you can afford it, I'd suggest the NCASE M1. It'll fit a 240mm radiator for watercooling.

I went ITX as well for my build, but it's in a Bitfenix Prodigy case, which is quite large by ITX standards & I am using a Noctua NH-D15 cooler, which is MASSIVE. And it fits fine in the case.

Also keep in mind that many ITX cases won't fit a full-sized ATX PSU either. I bought a "short" ATX PSU (which actually conforms to the standard, as opposed to most ATX PSUs which are larger), but SFX form factor PSU is also an option.
 
This is kind of stupid, but uh...... Does anyone with an Asus motherboard know where I can find the latest BIOS firmware update to download to a flash drive? I've been scowering google/their website for like 40 minutes and I CANNOT find it anywhere.

I have a B150i, brand new build, trying to update the BIOS before I install Windows.
 

ClearData

Member
Where can I purchase certified display port cables online? I've checked Newegg and Amazon and I am not impressed with what they have on offer.

I'm also trying to figure out what version of DP my EVGA Titan X (Maxwell) uses, but I'm not seeing it listed on the site I checked. I think it's 1.2 but I am not sure. I've been using HDMI 2.0 for the longest but I will switching to a G-Sync monitor in a few months.
 

Gumbie

Member
Hey guys, looking at selling my current PC and upgrading to a smaller HTPC build. Not really sure what to ask for money wise so I wanted to list the specs and see what kind of range you guys thought would be a fair price.

-Asus Maximums V Extreme Motherboard
-i7 3770k
-Corsair H100 Closed Loop CPU Cooler
-16GB Corsair Vengeance Memory
-EVGA 1080 GTX SC
-480GB Corsair Neutron SSD
-4TB Western Digital Black Hard Drive
-Corsair 700D Case

I'm really just looking for a good ballpark range, nothing super specific.
 

ClearData

Member
Hey guys, looking at selling my current PC and upgrading to a smaller HTPC build. Not really sure what to ask for money wise so I wanted to list the specs and see what kind of range you guys thought would be a fair price.

-Asus Maximums V Extreme Motherboard
-i7 3770k
-Corsair H100 Closed Loop CPU Cooler
-16GB Corsair Vengeance Memory
-EVGA 1080 GTX SC
-480GB Corsair Neutron SSD
-4TB Western Digital Black Hard Drive
-Corsair 700D Case

I'm really just looking for a good ballpark range, nothing super specific.

You are going to sell that 1080? I thought you'd keep that for your next build.
 

BizzyBum

Member
Is 4K harder to OC or something? My overclocks on my 1080 (210/550) were fine on my old 1440p but on my new 4K I'm getting blue artifacts when playing Witcher 3.
 
Is 4K harder to OC or something? My overclocks on my 1080 (210/550) were fine on my old 1440p but on my new 4K I'm getting blue artifacts when playing Witcher 3.

Playing the game at 4K is probably pushing your card more than 1440p, exposing your unstable overclock. Maybe reinstall latest drivers, but sounds like you'll have to tone down your overclock.
 
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